The innovative jewels, without excesses, by the American designer Sean Gilson ♦ ︎
Designer? Artist? Artisan? What is the right definition to define Sean Gilson? Meeting him is not easy: he is usually in his laboratory in a small town in Connecticut, USA. Although every so often he goes to New York for some workshops or for extraordinary events, as it was for GemGèneve, where Sean Gilson was present in the Designer Vivarium area.
The difficulty of meeting this eclectic jewelry artist is also due to his way of working: he personally creates the finish of the jewel. Pieces that are often surprising. As for the earrings presented at the Swiss event, made with a particularly delicate stone, together with white gold and blue sapphires: a piece of virtuoso jewelry. To achieve the desired effect the American designer also uses different techniques and combines traditional tools with more modern ones. The result is innovative, modern jewels that do not lose their wearability. “A jewel should never scream if there is the integrity of design, materials and craftsmanship,” says Gilson.
A master goldsmith and gem expert, Gilson crafts each of his pieces by hand. He personally creates and finishes every one of his designs in his Connecticut studio and his New York workshop. Often described as a “goldsmith’s goldsmith,” he combines a background in the fine arts with both traditional and modern metalworking techniques.
His style frequently incorporates geometric and modern forms, the use of an antique-style darkened (burnished) gold finish, and the application of Japanese alloys such as *shakudo*—a blend consisting primarily of copper with a small percentage of gold (typically between 2% and 10%). He also makes creative use of coral, jadeite, and diamonds.
Gilson also has a profound interest in pearls—ranging from South Sea and Akoya pearls to baroque, Tahitian, and freshwater varieties. He has collaborated with the pearl specialist brand Assael, a partnership that resulted in award-winning jewelry collections such as the “Bubble” and “Wrap” lines.
