The ancient Trypillia culture in GemGèneve

The jewelry industry of war-torn Ukraine returns to GemGèneve, the only industry event that has opened a special space to encourage the sector of that country. The driving force behind the initiative is the Strong and Precious Art Foundation, an organization created to support Ukrainian jewelers, which will participate in the Beyond Time exhibition, inspired by Trypillia. The exhibition showcases the rich heritage of Trypillian culture, spanning a period from 5,500 BC. around 2,750 BC. This culture spread across the territory of what is now Ukraine, as far as Romania and Moldavia, and represents an important chapter in European history. The production of the Trypillian period is characterized by red and orange ceramics decorated with curvilinear designs. The Tripillian peoples practiced agriculture and engaged in intricate rituals.

I Trypilliani si consideravano parte integrante della natura, adorando il concetto di femminilità e grano pionieristico tecniche di lavorazione e conservazione, il tutto vivendo in simbiosi armonia con l'ambiente circostante. Il ciondolo Dea Madre mostra il simbolo di Berehynia (Dea Madre in ucraino), incarnando l'infinito energia e resilienza femminile. Oro giallo e bianco 18 carati e diamanti
The Trypillians considered themselves an integral part of nature, worshiping the concept of femininity and pioneering grain processing and preservation techniques, all while living in symbiosis harmony with their surroundings. The Mother Goddess pendant displays the symbol of Berehynia (Mother Goddess in Ukrainian), embodying infinite feminine energy and resilience. 18k yellow and white gold and diamonds

Our exhibition aims to celebrate the cultural heritage of the Trypillian people and showcase the talent of Ukrainian jewelers. Through our collaboration with GemGenève, we are committed to highlighting Ukraine’s rich jewelry heritage to an international audience.
Olga Oleksenko founder of the Strong and Precious Art Foundation

Olga Oleksenko
Olga Oleksenko

The exhibition will feature projects by emerging Ukrainian designers and established Ukrainian brands, unified by strong symbolism and meaning, designed exclusively for the 8th edition of GemGenève. Komendat, Aga.te, Anton Boyko and GeO x Iryna Vasylenko will participate in the art foundation collective for the first time, joining previously represented designers Drutis, Inesa Kovalova, Iryna Karpova, Nomis and Oberig.
The Strong and Precious Art Foundation is also collaborating with ceramic artist Victoria Yakusha, with designs made by furniture band Faina.
L'albero simboleggia il legame senza tempo tra generazioni, che rappresenta la forza duratura e il sostegno della parentela. Le sue radici ci significano patrimonio ancestrale, fornendo nutrimento per l'evoluzione personale, durante la corona incarna la continuazione della bellezza e dell'abbondanza della vita, nutrendo il futuro generazioni con luce e calore. Realizzato in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e quarzo, questo pendente di Oberig incarna l'essenza dell'amore e dell'eredità familiare
The tree symbolizes the timeless bond between generations, representing the lasting strength and support of kinship. Its roots signify us ancestral heritage, providing nourishment for personal evolution, while the crown embodies the continuation of the beauty and abundance of life, nourishing future generations with light and warmth. Crafted in 18k yellow gold, diamonds and quartz, this pendant from Oberig embodies the essence of love and family legacy

Orecchini by Inesa Kovalova
Earrings by Inesa Kovalova
Bracciale by Drutis
Bracelet by Drutis

The drops of Pdpaola

Silver jewelery with 18k gold plating, which also uses cubic zirconia crystals together with natural gems. It is the recipe based on the Icons collection by Pdpaola. The Spanish brand offers a line of jewelery that includes earrings, rings and necklaces with a style that plays around the shape of the drop. The jewels, with the exception of the rings, which are set with a capochon-cut gem or a pavé of cubic zirconia, adopt an elongated but very soft pendant. The drop is made of metal, gold-plated silver, or semi-precious stones, such as aventurine of various colors (green, yellow) or labradorite.

Collana della collezione Icons indossata
Necklace from the Icons collection worn

The two stones are cut with a convex and circular shape for the rings, or a teardrop shape for the earrings and pendants to add to the necklaces. The pendants can obviously be added in the desired number. A necklace with gold-plated silver drops is offered at 149 euros, the ring at 79 or 99 euros, a single earrings at 49 or 59 euros.

Orecchini con pavé di cubic zirconia e avventurina
Earrings with cubic zirconia and aventurine pavé
Girocollo in argento
Silver choker
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Ring in gold plated silver and cubic zirconia
Anelli in avventurina verde e gialla
Green and yellow aventurine rings

Time is a jewel for Stenzhorn

The passage of time is a mystery described by physics, but still obscure for the life of human beings. No less elusive, except to watchmaking engineers, are the mechanisms of machines that measure hours, minutes and seconds. The result, sometimes, remains indecipherable even to the human eye. As with the Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn, a German high jewelery house, with forays into high watchmaking too. The peculiarity of this watch lies in its transparent dial without a central hand. The indication of the hours and minutes are mysterious. It is not, obviously, to be used to measure performance in a sporting competition: the watch is above all an exercise in sophisticated goldsmith engineering.

Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn
Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn

Marking the passage of time is a floating 1.5-carat pear-shaped diamond, which takes the place of the traditional hand. The diamond rotates to indicate the hours, while exquisite amethysts mark the 12-hour positions on the bezel. The minute display ensures precise measurement of time, with the hand returning to zero after 60 minutes have passed. Above the bezel, the day and night indication alternately shows the rising and setting of the sun and moon, perfectly synchronized with the hour indication.
La lancetta che segna i minuti
The hand that marks the minutes

This extraordinary table clock is testimony to an unprecedented watchmaking art that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking physics. Crafted from exceptionally rare pillars of rock crystal and set on a rock crystal base, this exquisite piece is meticulously adorned with 23.78 carats of diamonds, lapis lazuli, moonstone and 18k gold elements, all elegantly encased in titanium . Weighing approximately 5 kilograms, the masterpiece is operated via a single button discreetly positioned on the back, ensuring simple operation without compromising aesthetics.
Il Mystery Clock è realizzato con colonne di cristallo di rocca, su una base di cristallo di rocca, e ornato con 23,78 carati di diamanti, lapislazzuli, pietra di luna ed elementi in oro 18 carati
The Mystery Clock is made with rock crystal pillars, on a rock crystal base, and adorned with 23.78 carats of diamonds, lapis lazuli, moonstone and 18k gold elements

A similar exercise in style and technique is the pendant which follows the same technique, but can be worn like a jewel. In this case the diamond that moves like the hands of the watch has a round shape, while the hours are indicated with small emeralds inside a pavé of diamonds that delimits the dial. The pendant also uses semi-precious stones such as amethyst, chiroprase, onyx and small pearls to form a tassel which gives the jewel-watch a slimmer appearance.
Mystery Watch Pendant
Mystery Watch Pendant

Enchanté earrings and rings by Chantecler

There are three new sets presented by Chantecler for the Enchanté collection. In 2024, the Maison di Capri will celebrate the 80th anniversary of its most famous icon, the bell. But, at the same time, it presents new features in its most famous collections. Enchantment is the key word of the line of jewelery that uses gold and semi-precious stones, surrounded by a thin line made up of small diamonds. The result is jewelery with soft and modern lines: earrings and rings follow the same stylistic formula to be able to be worn without problems in the most diverse situations.

Anello in oro satinato, malachite, diamanti
Ring in satin gold, malachite, diamonds

The jewels of the Enchanté collection are made with translucent gems cut into an oval shape such as lapis lazuli, malachite and moonstone, set in rings and earrings of satin and sandblasted yellow and rose gold. The setting and structure of the ring and earrings follow and support the stone without gaps or edges of any kind, helping to make the volume design of the jewel soft.
Orecchini in oro e pietra luna
Gold and moonstone earrings

Anello in oro, diamanti e pietra luna
Ring in gold, diamonds and moonstone

Orecchini in oro, diamanti e lapislazzuli
Earrings in gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli

Anello in oro, diamanti e lapislazzuli
Ring in gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli

More space for Dubai’s JGTD

Jewelery in Dubai with the third edition of JGTD, which will take place from 12 to 14 November. The new date replaces the previous February appointments. Ieg, the company that organizes the event together with Informa Markets Jewelery in the United Arab Emirates, anticipates some of the features expected for the Jewellery, Gem & Technology in Dubai. There will be around ten exhibition areas, including four new national pavilions. The fair is reserved for sector operators, such as Vicenzaoro, and will take place in its new location, Pavilions 1 and 2 south of the Dubai Exhibition Center in Expo City. In previous years the venue had been the Dubai World Trade Center. The DEC is considered a cutting-edge venue, spanning 45,000 square meters and can host customizable events and 14 exhibition and multi-purpose rooms.

JGTD 2023
JGTD 2023

JGTD is a premium destination for jewelery markets, thanks to easy access to Dubai. This event is enhanced by an expanded range of offerings, its new dates and venue and strong industry support. More importantly, JGTD responds to the evolving dynamics of the B2B purchasing process, meeting the industry’s need for faster sourcing cycles to meet the evolving preferences of its customers across the Middle East, Africa, Asia and other regions.
Marco Carniello, Chief Business Officer of Ieg

Marco Carniello
Marco Carniello

According to Celine Lau, director of jewelry fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery, the new November date offers buyers the opportunity to replenish their stocks before the end of the year and the start of the holiday season. JGTD will be held simultaneously with Dubai Diamond Week, organized by the fair’s official partner, Dubai Multi Commodities Centre. It is a platform that, in addition to JGTD, includes the planned Kimberley Process plenary session.
JGTD, buyers
JGTD 2023, buyers

The four new national pavilions will be dedicated to China, Sri Lanka, Thailand and the United States, in addition to representatives of Hong Kong, India, Italy and Turkey. The fair has also received strong support from the Gem & Jewelery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India’s leading industry organisation. Around 400 exhibitors are expected, representing 25 countries and regions.

JGTD edizione 2023
JGTD 2023 edition

Corner at Rinascente Roma for Pianegonda

Pianegonda, a brand that is part of the Bros Manifatture group, opens a corner and two windows at the Rinascente in Rome, in Via del Tritone. The opening is considered a significant stage in the expansion of the Maison specializing in silver jewelery in the luxury market: the brands hosted in the store have a medium-high positioning. and the choice of the store in Via del Tritone, one of the luxury shopping areas in Rome, testifies to the desire to position itself in high-end jewellery. The Pianegonda corner and the two dedicated windows are designed to immerse visitors in the brand’s universe, with the best-selling silver collections in natural or golden versions.

Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma
Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma

The inauguration of the corner was also the occasion for the presentation of the Assoluto collection designed by creative director Betony Vernon. With this opening, Pianegonda confirms its retail development strategy, aiming to expand to important national and international locations in the coming months.
Bracciale rigido in argento
Rigid open silver bracelet from the Assoluto collection

(Italiano) Gioielli di Amen per la Festa della Mamma

Mother’s Day is also a special day for those who produce jewellery, which have always been one of the favorite gifts for the most important woman in every human being’s life. Amen, a Tuscan jewelery brand at affordable prices, also takes part in the party with her proposals. Like the Gioie di Mamma collection, a tribute to the unique and special bond that is established between mothers and children. The jewels are characterized by heart-shaped pendants in silver, cubic zirconia and colored enamel.

Ciondolo Gioie di Mamma
Gioie di Mamma Pendant

Another proposal is the Call Angels line, inspired by the Christian symbol of protection. Each bell emits a delicate sound which, according to tradition, indicates the presence of a guardian angel near the pregnant woman and the child. The Call Angels series is available in three variants. Furthermore, for Mother’s Day, Amen offers a free bracelet to those who incur a cost of at least 80 euros. The bracelet is in silver, with cubic zirconia cut in the shape of a heart.
Bracciale con cubic zirconia a cuore
Bracelet with heart-shaped cubic zirconia

Ciondolo con cubic zirconia rosa
Pendant with pink cubic zirconia

Not only Rolex at auction with Nomisma

Rolex and collectible watches from other brands up for auction with Nomisma Aste. The auction is scheduled for Sunday 5 May 2024 starting from 3 pm at Villa Mosconi Bertani (via Novare, 2 37024 Arbizzano-Santa Maria (Verona) in the heart of Valpolicella. On sale a selection of 186 lots including watches, pens collection and objects. Among the contemporary watch brands there are pieces by Omega, such as the Speedmaster Apollo XI, a limited edition that celebrates the 25th anniversary of the space mission that brought the first men to the moon.

Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 25th Anniversary Limited Edition
Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 25th Anniversary Limited Edition

Also noteworthy are examples of the Da Vinci series of the IWC brand and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph timepiece, known for having been worn by the actor Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film Terminator 3. Of the Rolex brands, the Daytona Beach Blue stands out, the color most sought after by collectors of the series, the Daytona Chocolate and the Daytona 16518 with Zenith movement and dial with diamond indexes. Not to forget the Rolex Submariner Big Crown, also known by collectors as James Bond: the actor Sean Connery, in fact, wore it in a film of the series. Also in the catalog are collectible pens.

Participation in the auction can take place in person, upon reservation, or from home, by connecting to the Bid Inside platform.

Rolex Daytona Chocolate
Rolex Daytona Chocolate

Iwc Novecento
Iwc Novecento

Italian gold sector grew by 7.4%, but now…

In 2023, the turnover of the goldsmith sector in Italy grew by 7.4%. This is indicated by the Goldsmiths’ Club-Intesa Sanpaolo Report commented during the association’s annual meeting, hosted at the Unoaerre headquarters. According to the report, the sector exported over 10 billion in 2023, with growth of 11% in value and 7.1% in quantity. The top markets are the USA (+7%) and Switzerland (+20.7%). But 2024 opened with the prospect of a slowdown: according to the analysis, clear signs of a change in direction of the international cycle have emerged. The survey of business sentiment carried out by the Club degli Orafi and Intesa Sanpaolo at the end of 2023 had already shown that the main concern is the decline in orders, in particular on the domestic market, which in the space of a few months has overcome all other critical issues, also that of finding manpower. Corporate investments, however, do not appear to have slowed down. Investments continue to be made in Italian companies.

Artigiani al lavoro nel laboratorio Boccadamo
Craftsmen at work in the Boccadamo laboratory

During the meeting, the passing of the baton also took place between the outgoing president, Giorgio Villa (8853 spA) and the newly elected Maria Cristina Squarcialupi (Unoaerre Industries) and the vice president Mauro di Roberto (Bulgari).

They have been three exciting years, which have seen the Goldsmiths’ Club strengthen its activity in terms of promoting goldsmith excellence, developing new project ideas and meeting opportunities. We have brought the world of jewelery even closer to that of art, launched the observatory on digital marketing, created a project in response to the training needs in the field for Italian companies, a study on the new dynamics of retail and implemented the work of investigation into the sector thanks to the increasingly close collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo. I leave to my colleague Maria Cristina Squarcialupi a representative Club recognized as a privileged interlocutor on the national and foreign scene, with the certainty that it will continue and strengthen the development process undertaken.
Giorgio Villa

Giorgio Villa
Giorgio Villa

I am honored by the trust placed in me by the Club Members and I particularly thank Giorgio Villa for his extraordinary commitment. I intend to continue on the path traced, working for the increasingly clear recognition of the uniqueness of the Italian gold and jewelery sector. I know I can count on the precious contribution of all the Club Members and a strong Board of Directors representative of all the souls of the sector.
Maria Cristina Squarcialupi

The presidential team is completed by the councilors Candido Operti (Antica Orologeria Candido Operti), Antonio Songa (Songa Antonio), Giorgio Villa (8853 spa), the past presidents Andrea Broggian, Luciano Mattioli and Augusto Ungarelli and the arbitrators Francesco Bonacci, Giancarlo De Paulis and Paolo Valentini.

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Crieri
Jewellery manufacturing in the Crieri atelier

The Coral by Giovanni Raspini

Coral turns into silver in Giovanni Raspini’s new collection. It is not the first line of jewelery that the Tuscan brand dedicates to the marine world, an environment that inspired the founder’s creative mind. The new collection is called Coral and uses shapes and volumes of the underwater plant which, in reality, is composed of tiny organisms typically gathered in branched colonies. The collection does not lose sight of the typical style of the Maison, specialized in silver jewellery. But, as with other collections, a gold-plated jewelry version is also offered for Coral.

Collezione Coral in argento naturale indossata
Coral collection in natural silver

As the name of the line suggests, the jewels have a design that reproduces the natural ramifications of marine corals. The collection includes a bracelet, two necklaces, two rings, four earrings (including a pair of right or left ear cuffs, thus experimenting with the shape that wraps the auricle), in both versions: natural silver or gilded .
Collezione Coral in argento dorato indossata
Coral collection in gilded silver

Collana in argento dorato
Golden silver necklace
Orecchini pendenti in argento
Silver pendant earrings
Ear cuff in argento
Silver ear cuff

Buccellati’s in exhibition in Venice

The history of Buccellati, one of the historic Maisons of Italian jewellery, which today is part of the Richemont group, on display. The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics is dedicated to the brand founded over a century ago, which includes pieces of high jewelry that summarize the history and craftsmanship of Buccellati. The exhibition (18 April-18 June 2024) is hosted in the spaces of Oficine 800 on the Giudecca canal, Venice. The creative concept and creation are by Balich Wonder Studio, while the care was entrusted to Alba Cappellieri, who selected the precious jewels made with the typical burin technique of Florentine goldsmithing (the Buccellati family, who have been operating in Milan since the beginning of last century, are of Tuscan origin).

Una collana nella sala The Gallery of the Icons
A series in The Gallery of the Icons room

The title of the exhibition, The Prince of Goldsmiths, alludes to the definition attributed to Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of the most influential Italian writers and poets of the twentieth century, who in 1936 defined Mario Buccellati in this way. And, given that Buccellati’s style inherits the goldsmith tradition that dates back to the Renaissance, the theme of the exhibition is Rediscovering the Classics, the rediscovery of the classics.

Orecchini Cockatil in oro, morganite, diamanti
Earrings in gold, morganite, diamonds

The classics offer the pleasure of rediscovery, evoking timeless worlds of elegance, art and nature. Retracing them means reinterpreting age-old traditions and forms with an ever-present look. This is the objective of the exhibition, an even more precious moment for us as it is hosted in Venice.
Andrea Buccellati, creative director and honorary president

Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati
Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati

Buccellati is not just jewels. The exhibition also offers a panorama of artistic silver conceived as objects for the home, which added luster to the history of the Maison.

This exhibition is a wonderful time machine that takes us on a journey from the beginning of the twentieth century, when Mario created sublime objects for Gabriele d’Annunzio and his muses, to the seventies in which Gianmaria modeled the goldsmith techniques of the Renaissance with the color of his sumptuous cocktail jewelry. Until the present, which Andrea interprets with the contemporary elegance of his Cuff bracelets and his soft sets. The Buccellati show us that without a past there is no future.
Alba Cappellieri, Professor of Jewelery Design at the Polytechnic of Milan

Alba Cappelieri
Alba Cappelieri

One of the symbolic jewels is a butterfly, the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly, created for the occasion, and which guides each section from the first room: always a symbol of the Maison and of the generations of the family who guided its creative direction, the butterfly embodies the evolution and soul of Buccellati, representing its phases in different forms.

Venezia Butterfly
Venezia Butterfly

For the exhibition Marco Balich was inspired by the distinctive, long and narrow shape of Oficine 800, dividing them into two parallel sections. A play of lines and geometries traces an ideal perspective line, which becomes the path for the visitor: sometimes it is an imaginary path guided by video installations, other times the perspective is infinitely multiplied, thanks to a clever play of mirrors.

The Gallery of the Icons
The Gallery of the Icons

The icons of Buccellati’s goldsmith production blend perfectly with the symbols of our artistic heritage, such as Cupid and Psyche. The exhibition celebrates the beauty of the Maison’s creations and classical arts in a timeless city through a contemporary reading and emotional direction, capable of generating wonder.
Marco Balich, Chairman of Balich Wonder Studio

Lavorazione a bulino di Venezia Butterfly
Burin work of Venezia Butterfly

The first room, The Buccellati Generations, immediately shows the design of the wings of the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly. The second room, Manmade Wonders, reveals precious silver creations, including boxes, smoking accessories and handbags, all evidence of the Maison’s craftsmanship. The third room, Natural Wonders, offers silver masterpieces, characteristic of the Buccellati style, which stands out for what in the Renaissance was referred to as the Subtle Art, or the art of masterfully working silver. It exemplifies the artisanal skill of the Buccellati masters in ancient manufacturing techniques, such as embossing and chisel to create leaves, buds, shells and lush creatures, including crustaceans, marine animals, feathers and fur masterfully recreated with the Furry technique. The last room, The Gallery of the Icons, an infinite, completely white gallery, features a series of columns with a neoclassical style, arranged in two parallel and opposite rows, creating a multiplier visual effect. In this almost surreal environment, the jewels are displayed in a transparent section, created in the columns at eye level, almost as if they were floating beings. The four central columns of the room show the main distinctive techniques of the Maison: Tulle, Lace, Engraving and Chaining.

Una farfalla in oro, perla barocca e smeraldi nella sala The Buccellati Generations
A butterfly in gold, baroque pearl and emeralds in The Buccellati Generations room
Gianluca Brozzetti, vicepresidente esecutivo, e Nicolas Luchsinger, Ceo di Buccellati
Gianluca Brozzetti, executive vice president, and Nicolas Luchsinger, CEO of Buccellati
L'installazione alla mostra The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Exhibition The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Boutique Buccellati in Place Vendôme, 1979
Buccellati boutique on Place Vendôme, 1979
Una storica tiara di Buccellati in mostra a Venezia
A historic tiara by Buccellati on display in Venice

J’Or’s new creativity

There is a brand that has chosen Haute Jewels Geneva as its stage to present itself to the world of high jewelry: J’Or. But, even if the name of the Maison marked the debut among the big names in Geneva, behind it there is the long experience together with the parent company, Oroproject. The Rome-based company has been active for over twenty years as a third-party manufacturer in the world of jewellery. The Maison was founded in 1986 by Lorenzo and Barbara Gelpi, now assisted by their sons Filippo and Lorenzo, who deal with sales and creative direction.

J'Or, pendente della collezione Over the Sea con tanzanite di 35,84 carati, zaffiri, diamanti, madreperla, titanio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
J’Or, pendant from the Over the Sea collection with 35.84 carats tanzanite, sapphires, diamonds, mother of pearl, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For a couple of years J’Or has decided to launch itself into the high-end jewelery segment with new collections. The manufacturing ability, which is part of the company’s identity, has therefore taken the path of collections such as Over the Sea or Gothica, with the use of large stones such as tanzanite and kunzite, together with mother of pearl, gold, titanium and diamonds. Large rings, chokers, pendants, earrings: the jewels are perfectly made, together with an original creative style.
JOr anello con tanzanite 1723 ct zaffiri diam madreperla coll over the sea titanio copyright gioiellis 1
Ring from the Over the Sea collection with 17.23 carat tanzanite, sapphires, diamonds, mother of pearl, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello della collezione Gothica con kunzite di 19,94 carati taglio cushion, madreperla grigia, diamanti, oro rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring from the Gothica collection with 19.94 carat cushion-cut kunzite, gray mother-of-pearl, diamonds, rose gold. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini della collezione Gothica con kunzite di 19,94 carati taglio cushion, madreperla grigia, diamanti, oro rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings from the Gothica collection with 19.94 carat cushion-cut kunzite, gray mother-of-pearl, diamonds, rose gold. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Attilio Gelpi
Attilio Gelpi
Collana della collezione Scarelt Kiss, rubellite di 13,49 carati, madreperla, oro, diamanti
Necklace from the Scarelt Kiss collection, 13.49 carat rubellite, mother of pearl, gold, diamonds
Orecchini della collezione Scarelt Kiss, rubellite, madreperla, oro, diamanti
Earrings from the Scarelt Kiss collection, rubellite, mother of pearl, gold, diamonds
Bracciale in titanio e diamanti
Titanium and diamond bracelet
jOr anello titanio diamanti diamanti oro copyright gioiellis
Titanium and diamond ring

The lightness of nature with Luisa Rosas

Luísa Rosas, Portuguese designer, heir to a tradition begun in 1860 ♦ ︎

In Portugal, in 1860, Mateus dos Santos Rosas started the activity of jewelry with a small workshop. His country of origin was Gondomar, a town near Porto, a land with coal and gold mines. And for this homeland of artisans, merchants, goldsmiths and jewelers masters. The Rosas family is still in business and runs jewelery stores with the David Rosas brand. But not only. The last descendant of the family, Luísa Rosas, almost 160 years later continues to bring to life the goldsmith tradition of the founder. Although, to be honest, the vocation of Luísa Rosas was architecture. Alongside her passion for designing environments, she decided to continue on the path of great grandfather and to create design jewels.

Orecchini della collezione Tribe in oro giallo e diamanti
Earrings from the Tribe collection in yellow gold and diamonds

Another tribute to the origins is the choice to use yellow or pink gold for her jewels.

The shape of the jewels is often inspired by nature, but making irregular shapes simple and rational, with an aesthetic probably derives from the architectural design. She also aims very much at metal processing, which offers an experience also from a tactile point of view. For example, the Maison often uses the gold filigree technique to make the textures and architectures of the jewels lighter and brighter.

Anello della collezione Tribe in oro giallo e diamanti
ARing from the Tribe collection in yellow gold and diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco 19,2 carati e diamanti
Earrings in 19.2 carat white gold and diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
18k yellow gold and diamond earrings
Anello della collezione Tribe in filigrana oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti brown
Ring from the Tribe collection in 18k rose gold filigree and brown diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo 19,2 carati in filigrana e diamanti
19.2 carat yellow gold earrings with filigree and diamonds

Gismondi’s revenue growth 1754

Growth in turnover, also thanks to the acquisitions made last year: the first quarter of 2024 of Gismondi 1754, listed on Euronext Growth Milan, disclosed the consolidated sales management results on a voluntary basis. As of March 31, Gismondi 1754 recorded total sales revenues of 4.3 million euros, an increase of 5% compared to the 4.1 of the first quarter of 2023. The special sales channel (1.4 million) and in the Wholesale channel (1.5 million), a slight contraction compared to the corresponding period of 2023. It should be noted that the new production channel enters the consolidated balance sheet, which concerns the acquisition of Hyperionlab, which contributed to 7% of the turnover, while the sales points showed a contraction in consumption due to the geopolitical crisis.

Orecchini della collezione Genesi in oro e zaffiri rosa
Earrings from the Genesi collection in gold and pink sapphires

I am satisfied with this positive result because, as already during the lockdown, in this period of uncertainty and global crisis, our philosophy of customer attention allows us, through special sales and thanks to the stability of the American wholesale, to present growth compared to to the first quarter of 2023, in contrast to the results of the jewelery sector. We are confident that we will be able to present satisfactory numbers, despite the continuation of the crisis, in the remaining part of the year thanks to the consolidation of the markets already covered and the opening of new markets. Furthermore, the acquisition of Hyperion will guarantee control of the production chain with an increase in margins and turnover.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

White roses for Pandora

Pandora roses also bloom in spring. The Danish affordable jewelry brand offers a series of jewels that have the rose flower as a characteristic element. Beyond the symbolism linked to the rose, one of the flowers chosen for the most varied combinations, religious, political or sentimental, the decorative aspect remains. Pandora jewels, which are part of the Moments collection, have chosen the rose version with white petals of the flower, which is usually given as a gift to express one’s love.

Orecchini in argento con madreperla sintetica
Silver earrings with synthetic mother-of-pearl

The jewels are made of 925 silver, with a synthetic mother-of-pearl rose, made with white bioresin, which has overlapping petals. The earrings, for example, have three prongs that wrap around the flower and a heart-shaped butterfly closure (39 euros). The adjustable length necklace also adds cubic zirconia stones (79 euros), while the pendant also has the engraving Nothing compares to you (69 euros) on the silver surface. Other versions of the same line instead use white or colored cubic zirconia, or transparent pink or orange enamel applied by hand.

Collana in argento con madreperla sintetica e cubic zirconia
Silver necklace with synthetic mother-of-pearl and cubic zirconia
Bracciale in argento con cubic zirconia bianchi e verdi
Silver bracelet with white and green cubic zirconia
Bracciale con rosa in smalto arancio
Bracelet with orange enamel rose

The big names present in Oroarezzo

Countdown to Oroarezzo (Arezzo Fiere, 11-14 May), a fair dedicated to Made in Italy manufacturing: from gold or silver chains, to semi-finished products, from components, to necklace clasps, but also jewelery ready for sale to the public and the classic Première competition, which rewards the best goldsmith creations presented by exhibiting companies. Oroarezzo is organized by Ieg, a company that now has an international scope and which also offers Vicenzaoro in Italy.

Bracciale della collezione Dinasty di Alessi Domenico
Bracelet from the Dinasty collection by Alessi Domenico

Oroarezzo is strongly devoted to exports, with the United Arab Emirates, Turkey, the United States, Hong Kong and France accounting for 65% of purchases in the gold sector, for a value of 1.6 billion. For this reason, in Arezzo there are many big names in the sector, such as Richline Italia, Giordini, Omega Art, Amp, Coar, Croma Catene, Quadrifoglio and Silo among the manufacturers, and then Unoaerre, Alessi Domenico, Karizia, Chrysos, F.lli Bovo, Veneroso and D’Orica, Gold Art, Artlinea, Moraglione 1922, Giloro and New Ander. There will also be an international presence with the Turkish Zen Diamonds and Arpas, the Spanish Alias Concept and the Portuguese Galeiras.
Ingresso a Oroarezzo
Entrance to Oroarezzo

Gioielli a OroArezzo
Jewelry in OroArezzo

The reflections of Gold Art

Gold Art is one of the large Italian jewelry companies. It was born in the district of Arezzo in 1978 on the initiative of Domenico Tavanti. It was born as a company producing finished products for wholesalers, and since 2000 also producing semi-finished products. But thanks to some acquisitions of jewelry brands, Gold Art, in addition to producing on behalf of third parties, also creates jewelry to be sold directly to the public through brands such as Tavanti and Falcinelli, while 7Ar specializes in the production of super light tubes and Coi is active in the distribution of jewels.

Collana Snowflakes con oro diamantato e colore ottenuto con cataforesi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Snowflakes necklace with diamond gold and color obtained with cataphoresis. Copyright: gioiellis.com

One of the house specialties is diamond cutting. It is a gold processing which, through the incision made with diamond tips on the surface of the metal, makes the jewel shine by creating micro facets on the surface. Technological design has brought this manufacturing technique to excellent levels, allowing infinite patterns to be created not only on the sphere, but on any desired shape. This is demonstrated by the large necklaces, but also bracelets, earrings and rings, sometimes worked with the addition of colored enamels.

Dettaglio della collana Snowflakes
Detail of the Snowflakes necklace. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gold Art, collana in oro, lavorazione con cataforesi
Gold Art, gold necklace, cataphoresis processing. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Una modella indossa collana, bracciale, orecchini e anello Gold Art
A model wears Gold Art necklace, bracelet, earrings and ring. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Haute Jewels Geneva 2025 changes location

Here are the numbers of Haute Jewels Geneva, an event dedicated to the world of jewelry in conjunction with Watches and Wanders. The results of the organizers are positive: the number of exhibitors in 2024 has more than doubled, from 23 brands in 2023 to 47. Almost 2,300 jewelery and watch buyers from all over the world participated in the event. 56.9% of participants came from Europe, 21.83% came from the Americas and Canada, 13.59% from Asia, 6.19% from the Middle East and 1.80% from Africa and Oceania.

Haute Jewels Geneva 2024. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Haute Jewels Geneva 2024. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Haute Jewels Geneva 2024 was a resounding success. We have brought together 47 of the world’s best jewelry brands in a luxurious and intimate setting once again that the concept of Haute Jewels Geneva has a firm place within the jewelry trade calendar.
Michael Hakimian, founder and CEO of Haute Jewels Geneva, Yoko London

Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva. Copyright: gioiellis.com

This year the exhibitors were divided into two different locations: the traditional Fairmont Grand Hotel Geneva and the InterContinental Hotel, closer to the Palaexpo where the event dedicated to watchmaking takes place. The Fairmont, however, will close for renovations. In 2025, therefore, Haute Jewels Geneva will be held at the InterContinental Hotel.
Haute Jewels Geneva, InterContinental Hotel. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Haute Jewels Geneva, InterContinental Hotel. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The Peninsula Capital fund enters Mattioli

The Turin fashion house Mattioli has a new minority shareholder: the private equity fund Peninsula Capital. Il Sole 24Ore reported this, specifying that the brand led by Licia Mattioli would have sold 23% of the capital to the British fund, with the legal assistance of Gianni Origoni and Cleary Gottlieb. Mattioli is a brand born after the sale, in 2013, of the historic jewelery and goldsmith company Marchisio to the Richemont group, controlled by Luciano Mattioli. An operation that convinced her daughter, Licia Mattioli, to launch a new brand, which in just a few years has established itself on the market with innovative collections and a well-defined style.

Collana della collezione Smarties
Necklace from the Smarties collection by Mattioli

The company’s activity, as well as in Turin (with 300 employees), also takes place in Valenza and in the Tarì district of Caserta, and also includes jewelery processing, which has pushed revenues to 100 million euros. The entry into the capital of Peninsula Capital, which in January entered with a 30% stake in the cosmetics big Veralab, would be preparatory to new investments by Mattioli, who wants to increase his presence on international markets. In past years Licia Mattioli was also a candidate for the presidency of Confindustria (Italian business association).

Bracciale Calatrava in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi e neri
Mattioli, Calatrava bracelet in white gold and white and black diamonds

Roberto Coin’s Venetian medallions

Venice is not just a city on water, but a universal symbol. And its architecture is not only an artistic masterpiece, but also a source of inspiration for painters, poets and jewelers. Like Roberto Coin, a brand that has always drawn inspiration from the lagoon city to design and propose new creations. The latest is the one presented at the Haute Jewels event in Geneva: a collection made up of medallions. Circular-shaped jewels, hanging from a gold necklace that recall a typical element of the Venetian landscape: the paterae.

Pendente medaglione in oro giallo con madreperla e diamanti, pendente a medaglione in oro giallo con giada nera e diamanti
Yellow gold medallion pendant with mother of pearl and diamonds. Yellow gold medallion pendant with black jade and diamonds

Anyone who has visited Venice knows them well: the paterae are circular ornamental bas-reliefs that date back to the period from the end of the 10th century to the end of the 13th century. But until the 15th century, paterae were sculpted that followed and imitated the subjects of the previous Venetian-Byzantine period. These architectural elements often carry symbols that relate to the events of the family that lived in the building or convey a message to passers-by. Roberto Coin’s Venetian Medallions collection designs his personal version. The medallions, offered in two sizes, are colorful to wear, with a floral motif illuminated by diamonds and, in this case, conveys the constant growth of the brand’s creativity. The collection also includes rings and earrings.

Pendente a medaglione in oro giallo con turchese e diamanti. Pendente a medaglione in oro giallo con corniola e diamanti
Yellow gold medallion pendant with turquoise and diamonds. Yellow gold medallion pendant with carnelian and diamonds
Yellow gold rotating double-faced ring with mother of pearl and diamonds
Yellow gold rotating double-faced ring with mother of pearl and diamonds
Yellow gold earrings with mother of pearl and diamonds, large and small
Yellow gold earrings with mother of pearl and diamonds, large and small
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