Eleonora Ghilardi

Homi? A bet won», according to the president of Fiera Milano Michele Perini, who relies on numbers: 80 000 buyers visited the third edition of the former Macef just ended in Milan, in 2000 more than last September. Like always, turning around the pavilion dedicated to costume jewelry, the impressions are different: there is someone complaining a lower turnout, who is happy for foreigner presence (an estimated 15%) and those who are enthusiastic about audience and orders.

Bijoux and confirmations

For example, Elena Rosso graphic designer by profession and soul of the Turin brand Nina tra le nuvole, which in just two years has established itself in crowded industry, with galvanic, resin and PVC for retro pieces like cameos, will also see the next season, rock items like new earrings with stones and written. And, an unprecedented line with the fishbone theme and thin bangles at 22 euro each from which hang keys, hearts, skulls, stars and the hand of Fatima, more fashionable symbol than ever. A confirmation for Rue des Mille, very Italian brand led by Antonella, and his three sons, who continues a dream that began with her husband Roberto: a 925 silver plated rose gold collection, made of necklaces and bracelets with pendants of various sizes and shapes. To a little coach, the frogs with a crown, lucky charms and letters are added further issues to celebrate two events of this family so close, the traditional graduation cap and a stork. Another novelty is the bracelet two in one Io&Te, with outer plated pink heart and an inner in silver to detach and give who you love. Very nice idea that anticipates another ready for VicenzaOro: thin bracelets, with enamelled figurines and inscriptions as Love and Peace.

Various materials

The desire to take a challenge is also seen in the use of traditional materials such as glass for costume jewelry, reinterpreted with irony or unusual combinations. Niccolò Tagliapietra, in his classic Glass shop in Venice, threads irregular blown glass boule colored a little earthy or very bright in steel wires called Bantu, to give freshness to an ancient tradition. Barbara Proverbio, Piedmontese with solid studies in architecture on the Grand Canal, instead, combines organic and synthetic fibers with the Murano glass working with a hot flame in which are dissolved the glass rods to be modeled. Necklaces with cloth and transparent balls or pearls feature a decoration obtained by subtraction. Watercolors, digital drawings, collage and vintage fabrics are the background of the jewelry by Nadia Vieira, a Spanish designer and Homi’s neophyte in the Sperimenta section, covered with glass domes welded in a zinc and copper alloy. In this area dedicated to emerging designers exposes Annamaria Cardillo, who back on the collection MA_SAI with threads of PVC assembled with strips of leather, long necklaces with wood inserts, magnets and glass boule. Eleonora Ghilardi, of Lodi, represents a craft tradition of her land, ceramics. Sculptor and designer, for her latest collection was inspired by the Hawaii’s islands. Needless to say, shapes are the result of a conceptual research.

Precious incantations

Even Amlé, brand of Santa Maria Capua Vetere, well known for horn use in custom jewelry, well before the Hermès necklaces, is focused on territory traditions. But it does so through an masterly research to give the collection a contemporary twist: ex voto, obtained from the original Bourbon molds, make up maxi necklaces, earrings and rings, instead the mini tambourines in goat skin and hand painted are a pair of earrings, and small Neapolitan nativity fruits decorate the wheels of handcarts-pendants. Obviously, could not be missing the Queen and o’ Sarracino. The idea, new and quite smart, to give a diamond as an investment to a newborn came to International Trading Company, a company specialized in diamonds trading. The cost of the package, called Namuri and submitted in the new section Prezioso, depends on the stone: for example, to 0.3 carats spending is 98 Euros, while for 0.22 carats it comes to the thousand euro. Monica Battistoni