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The ancient Trypillia culture in GemGèneve

The jewelry industry of war-torn Ukraine returns to GemGèneve, the only industry event that has opened a special space to encourage the sector of that country. The driving force behind the initiative is the Strong and Precious Art Foundation, an organization created to support Ukrainian jewelers, which will participate in the Beyond Time exhibition, inspired by Trypillia. The exhibition showcases the rich heritage of Trypillian culture, spanning a period from 5,500 BC. around 2,750 BC. This culture spread across the territory of what is now Ukraine, as far as Romania and Moldavia, and represents an important chapter in European history. The production of the Trypillian period is characterized by red and orange ceramics decorated with curvilinear designs. The Tripillian peoples practiced agriculture and engaged in intricate rituals.

I Trypilliani si consideravano parte integrante della natura, adorando il concetto di femminilità e grano pionieristico tecniche di lavorazione e conservazione, il tutto vivendo in simbiosi armonia con l'ambiente circostante. Il ciondolo Dea Madre mostra il simbolo di Berehynia (Dea Madre in ucraino), incarnando l'infinito energia e resilienza femminile. Oro giallo e bianco 18 carati e diamanti
The Trypillians considered themselves an integral part of nature, worshiping the concept of femininity and pioneering grain processing and preservation techniques, all while living in symbiosis harmony with their surroundings. The Mother Goddess pendant displays the symbol of Berehynia (Mother Goddess in Ukrainian), embodying infinite feminine energy and resilience. 18k yellow and white gold and diamonds

Our exhibition aims to celebrate the cultural heritage of the Trypillian people and showcase the talent of Ukrainian jewelers. Through our collaboration with GemGenève, we are committed to highlighting Ukraine’s rich jewelry heritage to an international audience.
Olga Oleksenko founder of the Strong and Precious Art Foundation

Olga Oleksenko
Olga Oleksenko

The exhibition will feature projects by emerging Ukrainian designers and established Ukrainian brands, unified by strong symbolism and meaning, designed exclusively for the 8th edition of GemGenève. Komendat, Aga.te, Anton Boyko and GeO x Iryna Vasylenko will participate in the art foundation collective for the first time, joining previously represented designers Drutis, Inesa Kovalova, Iryna Karpova, Nomis and Oberig.
The Strong and Precious Art Foundation is also collaborating with ceramic artist Victoria Yakusha, with designs made by furniture band Faina.
L'albero simboleggia il legame senza tempo tra generazioni, che rappresenta la forza duratura e il sostegno della parentela. Le sue radici ci significano patrimonio ancestrale, fornendo nutrimento per l'evoluzione personale, durante la corona incarna la continuazione della bellezza e dell'abbondanza della vita, nutrendo il futuro generazioni con luce e calore. Realizzato in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e quarzo, questo pendente di Oberig incarna l'essenza dell'amore e dell'eredità familiare
The tree symbolizes the timeless bond between generations, representing the lasting strength and support of kinship. Its roots signify us ancestral heritage, providing nourishment for personal evolution, while the crown embodies the continuation of the beauty and abundance of life, nourishing future generations with light and warmth. Crafted in 18k yellow gold, diamonds and quartz, this pendant from Oberig embodies the essence of love and family legacy

Orecchini by Inesa Kovalova
Earrings by Inesa Kovalova
Bracciale by Drutis
Bracelet by Drutis

More space for Dubai’s JGTD

Jewelery in Dubai with the third edition of JGTD, which will take place from 12 to 14 November. The new date replaces the previous February appointments. Ieg, the company that organizes the event together with Informa Markets Jewelery in the United Arab Emirates, anticipates some of the features expected for the Jewellery, Gem & Technology in Dubai. There will be around ten exhibition areas, including four new national pavilions. The fair is reserved for sector operators, such as Vicenzaoro, and will take place in its new location, Pavilions 1 and 2 south of the Dubai Exhibition Center in Expo City. In previous years the venue had been the Dubai World Trade Center. The DEC is considered a cutting-edge venue, spanning 45,000 square meters and can host customizable events and 14 exhibition and multi-purpose rooms.

JGTD 2023
JGTD 2023

JGTD is a premium destination for jewelery markets, thanks to easy access to Dubai. This event is enhanced by an expanded range of offerings, its new dates and venue and strong industry support. More importantly, JGTD responds to the evolving dynamics of the B2B purchasing process, meeting the industry’s need for faster sourcing cycles to meet the evolving preferences of its customers across the Middle East, Africa, Asia and other regions.
Marco Carniello, Chief Business Officer of Ieg

Marco Carniello
Marco Carniello

According to Celine Lau, director of jewelry fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery, the new November date offers buyers the opportunity to replenish their stocks before the end of the year and the start of the holiday season. JGTD will be held simultaneously with Dubai Diamond Week, organized by the fair’s official partner, Dubai Multi Commodities Centre. It is a platform that, in addition to JGTD, includes the planned Kimberley Process plenary session.
JGTD, buyers
JGTD 2023, buyers

The four new national pavilions will be dedicated to China, Sri Lanka, Thailand and the United States, in addition to representatives of Hong Kong, India, Italy and Turkey. The fair has also received strong support from the Gem & Jewelery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India’s leading industry organisation. Around 400 exhibitors are expected, representing 25 countries and regions.

JGTD edizione 2023
JGTD 2023 edition

Corner at Rinascente Roma for Pianegonda

Pianegonda, a brand that is part of the Bros Manifatture group, opens a corner and two windows at the Rinascente in Rome, in Via del Tritone. The opening is considered a significant stage in the expansion of the Maison specializing in silver jewelery in the luxury market: the brands hosted in the store have a medium-high positioning. and the choice of the store in Via del Tritone, one of the luxury shopping areas in Rome, testifies to the desire to position itself in high-end jewellery. The Pianegonda corner and the two dedicated windows are designed to immerse visitors in the brand’s universe, with the best-selling silver collections in natural or golden versions.

Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma
Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma

The inauguration of the corner was also the occasion for the presentation of the Assoluto collection designed by creative director Betony Vernon. With this opening, Pianegonda confirms its retail development strategy, aiming to expand to important national and international locations in the coming months.
Bracciale rigido in argento
Rigid open silver bracelet from the Assoluto collection

Italian gold sector grew by 7.4%, but now…

In 2023, the turnover of the goldsmith sector in Italy grew by 7.4%. This is indicated by the Goldsmiths’ Club-Intesa Sanpaolo Report commented during the association’s annual meeting, hosted at the Unoaerre headquarters. According to the report, the sector exported over 10 billion in 2023, with growth of 11% in value and 7.1% in quantity. The top markets are the USA (+7%) and Switzerland (+20.7%). But 2024 opened with the prospect of a slowdown: according to the analysis, clear signs of a change in direction of the international cycle have emerged. The survey of business sentiment carried out by the Club degli Orafi and Intesa Sanpaolo at the end of 2023 had already shown that the main concern is the decline in orders, in particular on the domestic market, which in the space of a few months has overcome all other critical issues, also that of finding manpower. Corporate investments, however, do not appear to have slowed down. Investments continue to be made in Italian companies.

Artigiani al lavoro nel laboratorio Boccadamo
Craftsmen at work in the Boccadamo laboratory

During the meeting, the passing of the baton also took place between the outgoing president, Giorgio Villa (8853 spA) and the newly elected Maria Cristina Squarcialupi (Unoaerre Industries) and the vice president Mauro di Roberto (Bulgari).

They have been three exciting years, which have seen the Goldsmiths’ Club strengthen its activity in terms of promoting goldsmith excellence, developing new project ideas and meeting opportunities. We have brought the world of jewelery even closer to that of art, launched the observatory on digital marketing, created a project in response to the training needs in the field for Italian companies, a study on the new dynamics of retail and implemented the work of investigation into the sector thanks to the increasingly close collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo. I leave to my colleague Maria Cristina Squarcialupi a representative Club recognized as a privileged interlocutor on the national and foreign scene, with the certainty that it will continue and strengthen the development process undertaken.
Giorgio Villa

Giorgio Villa
Giorgio Villa

I am honored by the trust placed in me by the Club Members and I particularly thank Giorgio Villa for his extraordinary commitment. I intend to continue on the path traced, working for the increasingly clear recognition of the uniqueness of the Italian gold and jewelery sector. I know I can count on the precious contribution of all the Club Members and a strong Board of Directors representative of all the souls of the sector.
Maria Cristina Squarcialupi

The presidential team is completed by the councilors Candido Operti (Antica Orologeria Candido Operti), Antonio Songa (Songa Antonio), Giorgio Villa (8853 spa), the past presidents Andrea Broggian, Luciano Mattioli and Augusto Ungarelli and the arbitrators Francesco Bonacci, Giancarlo De Paulis and Paolo Valentini.

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Crieri
Jewellery manufacturing in the Crieri atelier

Buccellati’s in exhibition in Venice

The history of Buccellati, one of the historic Maisons of Italian jewellery, which today is part of the Richemont group, on display. The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics is dedicated to the brand founded over a century ago, which includes pieces of high jewelry that summarize the history and craftsmanship of Buccellati. The exhibition (18 April-18 June 2024) is hosted in the spaces of Oficine 800 on the Giudecca canal, Venice. The creative concept and creation are by Balich Wonder Studio, while the care was entrusted to Alba Cappellieri, who selected the precious jewels made with the typical burin technique of Florentine goldsmithing (the Buccellati family, who have been operating in Milan since the beginning of last century, are of Tuscan origin).

Una collana nella sala The Gallery of the Icons
A series in The Gallery of the Icons room

The title of the exhibition, The Prince of Goldsmiths, alludes to the definition attributed to Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of the most influential Italian writers and poets of the twentieth century, who in 1936 defined Mario Buccellati in this way. And, given that Buccellati’s style inherits the goldsmith tradition that dates back to the Renaissance, the theme of the exhibition is Rediscovering the Classics, the rediscovery of the classics.

Orecchini Cockatil in oro, morganite, diamanti
Earrings in gold, morganite, diamonds

The classics offer the pleasure of rediscovery, evoking timeless worlds of elegance, art and nature. Retracing them means reinterpreting age-old traditions and forms with an ever-present look. This is the objective of the exhibition, an even more precious moment for us as it is hosted in Venice.
Andrea Buccellati, creative director and honorary president

Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati
Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati

Buccellati is not just jewels. The exhibition also offers a panorama of artistic silver conceived as objects for the home, which added luster to the history of the Maison.

This exhibition is a wonderful time machine that takes us on a journey from the beginning of the twentieth century, when Mario created sublime objects for Gabriele d’Annunzio and his muses, to the seventies in which Gianmaria modeled the goldsmith techniques of the Renaissance with the color of his sumptuous cocktail jewelry. Until the present, which Andrea interprets with the contemporary elegance of his Cuff bracelets and his soft sets. The Buccellati show us that without a past there is no future.
Alba Cappellieri, Professor of Jewelery Design at the Polytechnic of Milan

Alba Cappelieri
Alba Cappelieri

One of the symbolic jewels is a butterfly, the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly, created for the occasion, and which guides each section from the first room: always a symbol of the Maison and of the generations of the family who guided its creative direction, the butterfly embodies the evolution and soul of Buccellati, representing its phases in different forms.

Venezia Butterfly
Venezia Butterfly

For the exhibition Marco Balich was inspired by the distinctive, long and narrow shape of Oficine 800, dividing them into two parallel sections. A play of lines and geometries traces an ideal perspective line, which becomes the path for the visitor: sometimes it is an imaginary path guided by video installations, other times the perspective is infinitely multiplied, thanks to a clever play of mirrors.

The Gallery of the Icons
The Gallery of the Icons

The icons of Buccellati’s goldsmith production blend perfectly with the symbols of our artistic heritage, such as Cupid and Psyche. The exhibition celebrates the beauty of the Maison’s creations and classical arts in a timeless city through a contemporary reading and emotional direction, capable of generating wonder.
Marco Balich, Chairman of Balich Wonder Studio

Lavorazione a bulino di Venezia Butterfly
Burin work of Venezia Butterfly

The first room, The Buccellati Generations, immediately shows the design of the wings of the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly. The second room, Manmade Wonders, reveals precious silver creations, including boxes, smoking accessories and handbags, all evidence of the Maison’s craftsmanship. The third room, Natural Wonders, offers silver masterpieces, characteristic of the Buccellati style, which stands out for what in the Renaissance was referred to as the Subtle Art, or the art of masterfully working silver. It exemplifies the artisanal skill of the Buccellati masters in ancient manufacturing techniques, such as embossing and chisel to create leaves, buds, shells and lush creatures, including crustaceans, marine animals, feathers and fur masterfully recreated with the Furry technique. The last room, The Gallery of the Icons, an infinite, completely white gallery, features a series of columns with a neoclassical style, arranged in two parallel and opposite rows, creating a multiplier visual effect. In this almost surreal environment, the jewels are displayed in a transparent section, created in the columns at eye level, almost as if they were floating beings. The four central columns of the room show the main distinctive techniques of the Maison: Tulle, Lace, Engraving and Chaining.

Una farfalla in oro, perla barocca e smeraldi nella sala The Buccellati Generations
A butterfly in gold, baroque pearl and emeralds in The Buccellati Generations room
Gianluca Brozzetti, vicepresidente esecutivo, e Nicolas Luchsinger, Ceo di Buccellati
Gianluca Brozzetti, executive vice president, and Nicolas Luchsinger, CEO of Buccellati
L'installazione alla mostra The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Exhibition The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Boutique Buccellati in Place Vendôme, 1979
Buccellati boutique on Place Vendôme, 1979
Una storica tiara di Buccellati in mostra a Venezia
A historic tiara by Buccellati on display in Venice

Gismondi’s revenue growth 1754

Growth in turnover, also thanks to the acquisitions made last year: the first quarter of 2024 of Gismondi 1754, listed on Euronext Growth Milan, disclosed the consolidated sales management results on a voluntary basis. As of March 31, Gismondi 1754 recorded total sales revenues of 4.3 million euros, an increase of 5% compared to the 4.1 of the first quarter of 2023. The special sales channel (1.4 million) and in the Wholesale channel (1.5 million), a slight contraction compared to the corresponding period of 2023. It should be noted that the new production channel enters the consolidated balance sheet, which concerns the acquisition of Hyperionlab, which contributed to 7% of the turnover, while the sales points showed a contraction in consumption due to the geopolitical crisis.

Orecchini della collezione Genesi in oro e zaffiri rosa
Earrings from the Genesi collection in gold and pink sapphires

I am satisfied with this positive result because, as already during the lockdown, in this period of uncertainty and global crisis, our philosophy of customer attention allows us, through special sales and thanks to the stability of the American wholesale, to present growth compared to to the first quarter of 2023, in contrast to the results of the jewelery sector. We are confident that we will be able to present satisfactory numbers, despite the continuation of the crisis, in the remaining part of the year thanks to the consolidation of the markets already covered and the opening of new markets. Furthermore, the acquisition of Hyperion will guarantee control of the production chain with an increase in margins and turnover.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The big names present in Oroarezzo

Countdown to Oroarezzo (Arezzo Fiere, 11-14 May), a fair dedicated to Made in Italy manufacturing: from gold or silver chains, to semi-finished products, from components, to necklace clasps, but also jewelery ready for sale to the public and the classic Première competition, which rewards the best goldsmith creations presented by exhibiting companies. Oroarezzo is organized by Ieg, a company that now has an international scope and which also offers Vicenzaoro in Italy.

Bracciale della collezione Dinasty di Alessi Domenico
Bracelet from the Dinasty collection by Alessi Domenico

Oroarezzo is strongly devoted to exports, with the United Arab Emirates, Turkey, the United States, Hong Kong and France accounting for 65% of purchases in the gold sector, for a value of 1.6 billion. For this reason, in Arezzo there are many big names in the sector, such as Richline Italia, Giordini, Omega Art, Amp, Coar, Croma Catene, Quadrifoglio and Silo among the manufacturers, and then Unoaerre, Alessi Domenico, Karizia, Chrysos, F.lli Bovo, Veneroso and D’Orica, Gold Art, Artlinea, Moraglione 1922, Giloro and New Ander. There will also be an international presence with the Turkish Zen Diamonds and Arpas, the Spanish Alias Concept and the Portuguese Galeiras.
Ingresso a Oroarezzo
Entrance to Oroarezzo

Gioielli a OroArezzo
Jewelry in OroArezzo

Haute Jewels Geneva 2025 changes location

Here are the numbers of Haute Jewels Geneva, an event dedicated to the world of jewelry in conjunction with Watches and Wanders. The results of the organizers are positive: the number of exhibitors in 2024 has more than doubled, from 23 brands in 2023 to 47. Almost 2,300 jewelery and watch buyers from all over the world participated in the event. 56.9% of participants came from Europe, 21.83% came from the Americas and Canada, 13.59% from Asia, 6.19% from the Middle East and 1.80% from Africa and Oceania.

Haute Jewels Geneva 2024. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Haute Jewels Geneva 2024. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Haute Jewels Geneva 2024 was a resounding success. We have brought together 47 of the world’s best jewelry brands in a luxurious and intimate setting once again that the concept of Haute Jewels Geneva has a firm place within the jewelry trade calendar.
Michael Hakimian, founder and CEO of Haute Jewels Geneva, Yoko London

Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva. Copyright: gioiellis.com

This year the exhibitors were divided into two different locations: the traditional Fairmont Grand Hotel Geneva and the InterContinental Hotel, closer to the Palaexpo where the event dedicated to watchmaking takes place. The Fairmont, however, will close for renovations. In 2025, therefore, Haute Jewels Geneva will be held at the InterContinental Hotel.
Haute Jewels Geneva, InterContinental Hotel. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Haute Jewels Geneva, InterContinental Hotel. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The Peninsula Capital fund enters Mattioli

The Turin fashion house Mattioli has a new minority shareholder: the private equity fund Peninsula Capital. Il Sole 24Ore reported this, specifying that the brand led by Licia Mattioli would have sold 23% of the capital to the British fund, with the legal assistance of Gianni Origoni and Cleary Gottlieb. Mattioli is a brand born after the sale, in 2013, of the historic jewelery and goldsmith company Marchisio to the Richemont group, controlled by Luciano Mattioli. An operation that convinced her daughter, Licia Mattioli, to launch a new brand, which in just a few years has established itself on the market with innovative collections and a well-defined style.

Collana della collezione Smarties
Necklace from the Smarties collection by Mattioli

The company’s activity, as well as in Turin (with 300 employees), also takes place in Valenza and in the Tarì district of Caserta, and also includes jewelery processing, which has pushed revenues to 100 million euros. The entry into the capital of Peninsula Capital, which in January entered with a 30% stake in the cosmetics big Veralab, would be preparatory to new investments by Mattioli, who wants to increase his presence on international markets. In past years Licia Mattioli was also a candidate for the presidency of Confindustria (Italian business association).

Bracciale Calatrava in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi e neri
Mattioli, Calatrava bracelet in white gold and white and black diamonds

Designers and new talents at GemGèneve

From the beginning GemGèneve has proposed a mix of exhibitors of gems, vintage jewellery, but also new talents and emerging designers. And also for the next edition of GemGenève (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of the Palexpo) Nadège Totah curated the Emerging Talents & New Designers space. The area dedicated to new creators always attracts the attention of visitors. For the eighth edition, the organizers of GemGenève have selected five Emerging Talents and five New Designers, some of whom will debut at the Geneva event.

Nadège Totah
Nadège Totah

William Griffiths. He is an English jeweler who now works in Australia and who trained in London at the family jewelery house in Hatton Garden. He gained professional experience from Barcelona to Auckland, finally settling in Melbourne in 2004 and founding his own brand. He proposes creations that are both sculptural and mystical.
Shavarsh Hakobian. The Armenian designer returns after participating in GemGèneve in November and returns with new, completely new pieces. Graduated from the Yerevan Academy of Fine Arts, he founded the brand under his name in 2008.
Shavarsh Hakobian. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Shavarsh Hakobian. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Villa Milan. Another return after debuting in November. In reality it is a jewelry store that has emerged for some time, given that it was founded in 1889. Now, however, the new creative director Alice Villa, together with her sister Francesca, has infused new energy and ideas into the Maison.
Alice Villa
Alice Villa. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Aso Leon. It’s a return for him too. The designer works in China inspired by Zen philosophy. He embodies the nouvelle vague of Chinese high jewelery and will present new pieces that combine titanium, his specialty, and exceptional gems.
Aso Leon. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Aso Leon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jaqueline Powers. It is the name of an American brand behind which are two Miami-based designers: Corina Tahuil and Vince Gerardis. She merges the world of jewelry with that of fashion and considers jewelry to be wearable art.
A. Win Siu. The Chinese designer also returns to Geneva with new jewels. Founded in 2017 by designer Xiao Xintong, it is a maison that offers pop and colorful creations, such as brooches that look like candy and gun-shaped jewelry.
Xiao Xintong. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Xiao Xintong. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Lagarde. It is the brand founded by Estelle Lagarde, who started out as a gouache designer for high jewelry. Then, she decided to do it alone. In 2023 you presented your first collection.

Diana Zhang. Having risen to prominence ten years ago at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris, Diana Zhang is today one of the most influential figures on the Asian art scene. She sees jewelry as a means to explore the meaning of life. Her surprisingly lifelike jewelry reflects a reality rewritten by means of precious stones.
Diva Jewels. The Indian jeweler Rishi Mehta returns to GemGèneve with his mobile jewels, the result of daring compositions with titanium and gems: articulated hummingbirds, parrots, all the pieces of Diva Jewels are made en tremblant.

Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Chang Ho Art Jewellery. From Hong Kong, the designer Ho Siu Chong, to perfect his technique, also continued his training in Italy and the United Kingdom. Before founding the brand with his name, the creator worked for several years for the prestigious Hong Kong jeweler Cheng & Cheung.
Alicia Stanska. Polish, she proposes a meeting between fashion and jewellery, which uses embroidery to embellish fabrics with precious stones and crystals. A great expert in the Lunéville technique created in the 19th century, Alicia Stanska has elevated embroidery with beads and sequins to an art level.

Geneva becomes the capital of jewellery

Geneva, capital of jewelery for a week from Monday to Monday, 8-15 April. While Watches and Wonders (formerly Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, SIHH) takes place at Palexpo (in addition to events in the city), large jewelery houses are concentrated in three other locations. The first to choose the Swiss city was Haute Jewels Geneva. Having started quietly in 2019 with just four brands, the event organized by the very active Michael Hakimian of Yoko London has quickly become a point of reference for many brands. This year the jewelery brands that have joined Haute Jewels Geneva have risen to 47. A number that has led to the division into two different locations: the Fairmont Grand Hotel and the InterContinental Hotel.

Haute Jewels Geneva
Haute Jewels Geneva. Copyright: gioiellis.com

At the Fairmont Grand Hotel Geneva there are (strictly in alphabetical order) Annamaria Cammilli, Baraka, Bayco, Carrera y Carrera, Crivelli, Dehres, Dolce & Gabbana, Eto Maria, Gorgoglione, Hans D. Krieger, Leone Pizzo, Marco Bicego, Mariani, Palmiero, Pasquale Bruni, Picchiotti, Roberto Coin, Scott West, Serafino Consoli, Sicis, Stenzhorn, Sutra, Verdi, Yoko London. The InterContinental Hotel Geneva, however, hosts Arakelian, AWKN1, Benjamin Fine Jewellery, Busatti 1947, Butani, Capolavoro Casato, Chimento, Diamond Group, Fabio Collection, FerriFirenze, Fullord Le Vian, Lenti 1963, Luisa Rosas, J’Or, Mattia Cielo, Mattoli, Gruppo Nigaam, Pace Group, PieroMilano, Smart Arts Jewellery, Zancan.

Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Michael Hakimian, Haute Jewels Geneva 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Furthermore, the coincidence with the most prestigious fair dedicated to fine watchmaking has attracted the attention of Howard Hauben, CEO of H2 Events, who organized Jewelery Geneva (9-15 April) at the Hotel President for three years. Participating in this event will be Anan Jewels, Ariha, Artexpo, Artur Scholl, Bloch, Busatti Milano, Damaso, David Gotlib, Di.Go Srl/Valentina Callegher, Giorgio Visconti, Hasbani Gioielli, Heinz Mayer, Hulchi Belluni, Isabellefa, Italgold Valenza 1967, J Jewels Milano, Jewels By Jacob,  Kahn High Jewellery, K Di Kuore, Luca B, Matthia’s & Claire, Misani, Nader Kash, Nanis, Rf Jewels, Schreiner, Solo Collection, Staurino, Tirisi, Zydo.

Jewellery Geneva 2023 booth
Jewellery Geneva 2023. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

The Contemporary Jewelry Contest is back

Milan Design Week is back and so is the exhibition of the finalists of the Contemporary Jewelry Contest at the Rossini Gallery (13 April – 4 May, Viale Monte Nero, 58, Milan). The exhibition includes the display of over 50 contemporary jewels made by artists from Italy and abroad. The curators Marina Chiocchetta and Sonia Patrizia Catena have selected unique and versatile, multifaceted and heterogeneous pieces, born from the research and creativity of Italian and foreign designers, goldsmiths and artists. The exhibition aims to take stock of the state of the art of jewellery.

Anello di Lalice arte orafa
Lalice Ring Goldsmith Art

The selected authors, in some cases, propose jewels that challenge the traditional perception of wearability, incorporating interactive or transformable elements that involve the user in a unique and engaging experience. The authors are Adagio Lab, Basia Arte Gioielli, DarioJewelDesign – Dario Gargiulo, Flora Sica, Patrizia Giachero, Kleo Glens, Kolata Design, Lalice arte orafa, Lamb Gioielli di Laura Agnello Modica, Local Heavens, Magistri Gioielli, MagmaLab, Maiesta, Mari Design, Marion Sterner, Paola Cisterni, Andrea Scarpa, V Design Lab Jewellery.
Collana scapolare di Maiesta, Giulia Fulgenzi
Scapular necklace by Maiesta, Giulia Fulgenzi

The finalists were chosen by two juries, one inside the gallery and one external, made up of curators, art experts, teachers and designers. The winners, proclaimed during the inauguration of the exhibition on Saturday 13 April, will be offered the possibility of a personal exhibition in the Rossini Gallery, the opportunity to exhibit at the Bijou Museum in Casalmaggiore, at the Spazio Heart in Vimercate and at the Spazio E in Ghemme .
During the exhibition, the artist’s jewels of Gioi Giulia Vignetti, winner of the Rossini Prize, proclaimed during the opening evening of Redefining Jewellery, a project now in its 9th edition and of which the gallery has been a partner since 2012, will also be on display. the sculptural works of the artist Chiò.
Pendente di Kleo Glens
Kleo Glens Pendant

The mysteries of opal in GemGèneve

The mysteries, charm and ambiguity of a gem that differs completely from the others: the opal. The eighth edition of GemGèneve (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of Palexpo, Geneva) will also offer an exhibition dedicated to the most enigmatic stone. The iridescence of opal is one of the most suggestive aspects. She was nicknamed Queen of Gemstones by William Shakespeare, and she won the favor of Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.

Series Lollipop Opal Brooch, with diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium
A.Win Siu, Lollipop brooch with opal, diamonds, tanzanite, tsavorite, enamel, aluminum

The exhibition, Flames of Opal Essence, is divided into a selection of around 50 jewels and works of art with a journey through the mysteries of iridescence. The scenography designed by the Autre Idée agency highlights all the properties of this stone. The exhibition is curated by the director of GemGenève, Mathieu Dekeukelaire, with the support of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva, Piaget, Imagem and Boris Chauviré, doctor of mineralogy at GeoGems, as scientific collaborator.

Thanks to the dialogue between jewels and contemporary art, Flames of Opal Essence traces a sensorial, graphic and initiatory journey to reveal all the mysteries of iridescence.
Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors

Nadège Totah. Photo David Fraga
Nadège Totah. Photo: David Fraga

In its collections, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva (MAH) has numerous antique pieces set with opals. Some will be on display in the exhibition, such as a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, with an opal set, which hides a tiny secret compartment in which a child’s thin lock of hair is kept.

Vhernier, spille con opale, cristallo di rocca e diamanti. Faerber Collection
Vhernier, brooches with opal, rock crystal and diamonds. Faerber Collection

Due to its characteristics, opal was long considered a cursed and unloved stone in ancient times. For this reason it was rarely used in jewelry before the 19th century.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Imagem, dettaglio di opale
Imagem, detail of opal
Kreis Jewellery, anello con opale nero australiano di 8,80 carati
Kreis Jewellery, 8.80 carat Australian black opal ring
piaget White gold. Opal dial. 44 marquise cut diamonds
Piaget, watch with opal and marquise-cut diamonds
Boris Chauviré
Boris Chauviré

Brosway opens in Genoa in make-up style

Brosway opens a new flagship store in the heart of Genoa. The store also presents a new format, with furnishings and display solutions that recall make-up shops, with direct contact between jewelery and customer. The idea is to offer the customer to completely immerse themselves in the Brosway world, with a sensorial journey through colors and design. The boutique, explains Bros Manifatture, the company that owns the brand, represents a large showcase at an international level and an important step forward in the brand’s growth strategy with the aim of offering customers a creative shopping experience Made in Italy.

Anello Fancy in argento con cubic zirconia
Fancy ring in silver with cubic zirconia

The furnishings and display solutions of the flagship store, characterized by essential lines and warm shades ranging from white to beige with natural wood accents, create the ideal environment to enhance the women’s and men’s collections and the best-selling Fancy line, in silver and zircons, inspired by the colors of emotions which, first, introduced the concept of make-up jewelry. With a focus on color harmony, the Fancy collection offers versatile and customizable jewels «which allow the wearer to express their mood and find a personal balance, enhancing the harmony of colors on every occasion».
Orecchini Fancy in argento e cubic zirconia
Fancy earrings in silver with cubic zirconia

Gismondi 1754 aims to consolidate the business

More investments and a little less profits for Gismondi 1754, which has announced its 2023 budget results. The Genoese company, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan of the Italian Stock Exchange, last year purchased Vendorafa and Hyperion Lab, as well as having a five-year franchising agreement was signed (with the option of renewal between the parties upon expiry) with the Al Mana family (Qatar) for the distribution of the Italian brand’s jewels in the Gulf area: operations which are reflected in the economic result. In addition to having approved the financial statements, the board of directors decided to propose to the shareholders’ meeting changes to the regulation of the Gismondi 1754 Warrants, scheduled to expire in 2024 and extended to 2026, with a new price and the objective of allowing «holders of the Warrants a longer time for exercise”. The effect is also to extend the subscription deadline for the necessary capital increase, with clear financial benefit for the company.

Bracciale in oro rosa e zaffiri rosa di Gismondi 1754
Bracelet in pink gold and pink sapphires by Gismondi 1754

Despite the continuation of the state of socioeconomic uncertainty – determined by the wars and the Chinese crisis and despite the end of the revenge shopping effect which positively influenced the 2021/2022 turnover – I am very satisfied with the results achieved, as the company has demonstrated readiness and flexibility in facing the negative scenario that has affected the entire luxury segment. Even with the right prudence, I am confident in the future because the actions taken for total control of the supply chain, thanks to the acquisition of Hyperionlab, will allow us to expand our business with greater profits.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

In summary, Gismondi 1754 shows a production value of 14.5 million for 2023, a decrease of 4%. Consolidated Ebitda (gross profit) decreased from 20% in 2022 (3 million) to 7% in 2023 (970,493). As a result, net profit also decreased to 35,335 compared to 1.6 million in 2022. For 2024 the company expects the development of the high range and strengthening of the new Vendorafa collections, together with rationalization and cost optimization of the network of directly managed stores and a boost from the opening of the first franchise store in Doha.
Collana Foglie in oro e diamanti arrivata seconda al Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Foglie necklace by Vendorafa, in gold and diamonds, came second at the Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gold at record, will it continue to rise?

Gold has reached an all-time high: will it continue to rise? Or was it just a blaze destined to go out? The answer interests both the world of jewelry and those who invest in the yellow metal. Everyone knows that the future is unpredictable even for the most experienced analysts. However, it is possible to draw a picture that can offer some indications.
oro 1 anno

At the beginning of March, gold prices in New York exceeded 2,140 dollars an ounce, with a peak of 2,145.40 dollars. Yet the previous record had been reached only three months earlier: on 4 December the value of gold had risen to 2,135 dollars, but then fell. The fundamental point, however, according to experts, is the exceeding of the 2,000 dollar mark in mid-February: a psychological threshold, which opens up to any scenario, so much so that in a week the yellow metal has increased by around 100 dollars.

Polsini in oro giallo a forma di vite e bullone. Prezzo: 4200 euro
Villa Gioielleria. Yellow gold screw and bolt shaped cufflinks

Why has the value of gold risen so much? There are two main factors: the geopolitical tensions that push towards safe haven assets and the maneuvers of large investment funds. The first factor is simple to understand: war in the Middle East, war in Ukraine, American elections which can be a factor of further uncertainty. Reasons that push many investors to bet part of their money on the solidity of gold. This factor conditions some investment funds which, also due to the algorithms that determine portfolio choices, join the trend. In this way they further fuel the rise in prices.
Bracciale in oro con la forma di teschio di ariete
Gold bracelet in the shape of a ram skull by Vicky Shawe. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Warning: it is not an automatic mechanism, destined to repeat itself forever. Another aspect that affects the price of gold is, for example, the trend in interest rates. Investors expect the Federal Reserve, the American central bank, to reduce rates as inflation appears to be under control. This expectation affects the yield of American government bonds and the price of the Treasury Bond has already partly reflected these expectations. If the value of bonds falls, many investors think, an alternative is to buy gold. Of course, if the Fed were to not lower rates and the wars around the world were to end or, at least, find a truce, gold would probably lose part of its appeal, with a reduction in prices.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

White trend for Rue Des Mille

Whiteside, spring tending towards white for Rue Des Mille, an Italian bijoux brand that chooses pearl-style elements for its collection which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings. The bijoux of the Whiteside line are made of 925 silver with 18k gold plating. The jewels also use shell pearls, small spheres also called shell pearls or fantasy pearls. They are similar to pearls produced and processed using a combination of shell powder and resin.

Orecchini in argento con galvanica oro e perle di conchiglia
Silver earrings with gold plating and shell pearls

The ring with six shell pearls is adjustable, to be worn on any finger. It is made of 925 silver, 18k gold plating and costs 75 euros. The bracelet with scooby-doo weave and central shell pearl also in 925 silver with gold plating costs 38 euros and the pair of earrings with graduated round shell pearls and cubic zirconia light point, made of 925 silver and gold plating , is offered at 95 euros.
Bracciale con perla di conchiglia
Bracelet with shell pearl

Anelli e collane della collezione Whiteside
Rings and necklaces from the Whiteside collection
Orecchini e collana della collezione Whiteside
Earrings and necklace from the Whiteside collection
Collezione Whiteside di Rue des Mille
Whiteside Collection of Rue des Mille

A sapphire drags Bolaffi’s auction

Spring marked by blue for Aste Bolaffi in Turin. The auction sale organized by the company for the end of March culminated in the awarding of a ring with a prestigious 4.61-carat Kashmir blue sapphire, sold for 370,000 euros after a telephone and in-room duel between numerous international collectors. The jewel was purchased by an important New York buyer. The stone, free of signs of heating and inclusions, is characterized by a uniform velvety blue color, the most sought after and appreciated. The jewel comes from the heirs of an important Milanese family together with other precious items. The sale for the Turin maison ended with over 2.4 million euros, a record for the jewelery department.

Orecchini in zaffiri blu e diamanti
Blue sapphire and diamond earrings

The sapphire had no certification of origin, but gemological investigations by the Basel SSEF officially confirmed its provenance: the Kashmir region, north-west of the Himalayan chain, where a small mine rich in sapphires of extraordinary beauty was discovered in the 19th century, then exploited intensely, only for a few years, at the behest of the maharajah and now exhausted.

A memorable auction both in general, for the record of the jewelery department, and for this spectacular sapphire, which is proof of the added value that Aste Bolaffi can offer sellers. Specifically, I am proud to have been able to demonstrate it, thanks to the competence and stubbornness of our specialist, Maria Carla Manenti, who allowed the selling family to see a beautiful sapphire transformed into a stone of exceptional provenance. Once this discovery was ascertained, certified by the supreme authority on the subject consulted by us, the other added value was given by our international network which brought the most important buyers from all over the world to battle at the auction, thus allowing the sensational result.
Filippo Bolaffi, CEO of Aste Bolaffi

Girocollo composto da cinque fili di perle naturali di acqua salata
Choker composed of five strands of natural saltwater pearls

Among the other jewels that achieved the best prices were a pair of earrings in blue sapphires and diamonds, which went up to 167,000 euros, a rare necklace made up of five strands of natural saltwater pearls, purchased for 143,000 euros, more than three times the starting price, a platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond, sold for 50,000 euros, a carnelian cameo engraved by Benedetto Pistrucci, purchased for 45,000 euros (lot 203), a pair of agate and enamel bookends signed by Alfredo Ravasco, one of the leading Italian goldsmiths of the 1920s and 1930s, depicting tropical fish, sought for up to 25,000 euros.

Anello in platino con diamante taglio rettangolare a gradini di 5 carati
Platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond

 

The dates of Milano Fashion&Jewels September

The September 2024 edition of Milano Fashion&Jewels will still take place at the Rho Fair from Saturday 14th to Tuesday 17th. On Saturday, visitor entry will be by invitation only. Furthermore, the days from 15th to 17th (Sunday-Tuesday) will coincide with Micam Milano, International Footwear Exhibition, Mipel International Leather Goods and Fashion Accessories Exhibition.

Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In three days, in addition to the opening on Saturday dedicated to exclusive entry with invitation from the exhibitors, it will thus be possible to better concentrate all the activities and special events of the event, offering visitors, buyers and journalists present, a very aimed at knowing and appreciating the potential of Milano Fashion&Jewels. With a view to optimizing visiting opportunities, a partial overlap is also expected in September (Tuesday 17th) with Lineapelle, the international exhibition of leather, accessories, components and fabrics, scheduled for 17th to 20th February 2024.
Esposizione di gioielli a Homi Fashion&Jewels
Homi Fashion&Jewels

The history of Tiffany & Co on window

It is not true that to be liked you need to be young and, perhaps, lie about your age. Tiffany, for example, is keen to underline its date of birth: 1837. A year that also occurs in its new advertising campaign: With Love, Since 1837. In short, for almost two centuries the American brand, now French-owned , with his jewels he witnesses weddings, engagements and declarations of love. And, always sinking inspiration back to its historical roots, the images that accompany the communication allude to the creativity of Gene Moore, an American designer and window dresser who joined Tiffany in 1955 as artistic director and later became vice president. In fact, the showcase is the first business card of a jewelry store.

Bracciale Knot
Knot bracelet

The Maison’s most important jewelery collections, such as Lock, T, Knot, HardWear, Sixteen Stone and Tiffany Setting, were visualized by the photographer and director Dan Tobin Smith, who recalled in photos and videos a series of shop windows created by Gene Moore, between theatrical wings and allusions to the surrealist artistic trend. The campaign speaks to the heritage of the House, the origin of each collection and pieces such as the Lock bracelet, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Sixteen Stone ring, HardWear jewels and other creations.

Bracciale Knot
Bracelet from the Knot collection

Dan Tobin Smith worked with production designer Rachel Thomas, including miniature or large-scale models that flow together seamlessly through shifts in perspective. The campaign is a collaboration between Tiffany’s internal creative team and creative agency Tbwa\Chiat\Day LA.

T bracelet
Bracelet from the T collection
Setting ring Hero
Tiffany Setting ring
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