Russia

Tenzo, spells of a gem-hunter

The magic of Tenzo, a Russian gem hunter able to excite with his jewels ♦

There are those who call him a gem-hunter, a sort of Indiana Jones in search of the extraordinary stone to be set in his jewels. Certainly Alexander Tenzo, a high jewelry designer based in Tallinn, Estonia, but with constant ubiquity, from Switzerland to the United States, is part of the small patrol of gem artists. He is able, for example, to carve an emerald with a unique ability, or to use precious stones with unusual shapes. In addition to choosing lesser-known gems, such as alexandrite, chrysoberyl, spessartite, along with tourmalines, rubies or diamonds.

Anello in platino con tsavorite di 10,9 carati, zaffiri, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Platinum ring with 10.9 carat tsavorite, sapphires, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For each creation, Tenzo tries to show the hidden soul of the stones. “I always have to start from what a stone can tell me”, confirms the artist-jeweler to gioiellis.com on one of the rare occasions when he agrees to talk about his work. The designer founded his small workshop in 1996 and soon the fame of his ability has managed to cross national borders. His unique, teased pieces unite the ancient traditions of jewelry, which in Russia are often Fabergé’s legacy, his eclectic compositional ability.

Collana con diamanti, spinelli birmani rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace with diamonds, pink Burmese spinels. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Alexander Tenzo’s professional career began with a trip to Sri Lanka. On the large island located south of India, he discovered a passion for gems. For several years, Alexander has been involved in the extraction and cutting of gems, from Asia to Africa. An experience that led him to transform himself into a jewelry designer, capable of carving stones to transform them into surprising works of art.

Anello con smeraldo intagliato di 18,38 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with carved emerald of 18.38 carats. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con spinelli naturali e diamanti
Earrings with natural spinels and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, pietra luna, spessartine
Ring in white gold, moonstone, Spessartite
Orecchini con oro bianco e giallo, diamanti grigi, gialli e bianchi
Earrings with white and yellow gold, gray, yellow and white diamonds
Pendente in oro giallo e argento, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendant in yellow gold and silver, spinel, sapphires, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo e argento, spinello rosa e rosso
Earrings in yellow gold and silver, pink and red spinel
Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti
Earrings with demantoid garnet, diamonds
Spilla intagliata con morganite, crisoberillo, spessartite, tormalina, crisoprasio
Brooch carved with morganite, chrysoberyl, famartite, tourmaline, chrysoprase
Anello con rubino e diamanti taglio marquise
Ring with ruby and marquise cut diamonds
Anello con zaffiro cabochon e diamanti
Ring with cabochon sapphire and diamonds

The War of the Diamonds

So far the embargo on Russian diamonds hasn’t worked too well. In the future, however, things could change and the price of the gems most loved by women would inevitably become higher. The war in Ukraine unleashed by Russia had already provoked, in 2022, the announcement of an embargo against the exports of Alrosa, the Russian state diamond giant. But, in fact, precious stones continued to arrive in the West too, due to the difficulty of tracing the gems. In fact, rough diamonds are sold in countries such as India or Thailand, which do not adhere to the stop decided by Western countries on Russian stones. Europe alone in 2022 imported Russian diamonds for 1.4 billion euros. A considerable figure, albeit down from 1.8 billion in 2021.

Expertise in un laboratorio Tiffany
Expertise by Tiffany

Something could change after the G7, the meeting of the major industrialized countries, if China is not taken into account. In Japan, the heads of state of the G7 countries have decided to tighten controls more to reduce one of the sources of income of the Russian state. And Great Britain has announced that it will immediately leave Russian diamonds outside the borders, together with other metals that are exported from Moscow. Russia is now the world’s largest producer of diamonds. The problem, however, is how to control the stone market, which largely passes through channels that are difficult to monitor.

Anversa: acquisti di un buyer
Antwerp, buyer

Where the traces disappear

The biggest obstacle comes from the steps related to processing. While the extracted diamonds are easily controlled, also thanks to the Kimberley Process, a path that certifies the origin of the gems, precisely to prevent them from financing warring countries or factions, the problem comes later. Cutting and polishing rough stones can make traces of provenance disappear. Furthermore, the idea of a real embargo opposes those countries, such as Israel or Belgium, which are the major centers where diamonds are cut.

Diamanti taglio brillante
Brilliant cut diamonds. Copyright: jewels.com

On the other hand, those who have everything to gain from a stop at Alrosa are the producers of gems created in the laboratory, who can benefit from an inevitable increase in the price of natural diamonds. Synthetic diamonds, which are chemically the same as those extracted in mines, already cost much less than natural ones. If the price gap widened further, the advantage would be greater.

Lavorazione dei diamanti alla Dimexon, India
Diamond Processing at Dimexon, India
Esame di diamanti ad Anversa
Diamond examination in Antwerp

The jewelry by Mousson




The new creations by Mousson, great Russian Maison of high jewelery. With opalescence and gold that looks like fabric ♦

St. Petersburg, a city founded by Peter the Great, was for a long time the capital of Russia and the seat of the court of the tsars. It is probably no coincidence that it now also hosts one of the Russian jewelery and high jewelery Maison: Mousson, which now also has offices in Moscow and Bangkok. Founded in 2008 by a group of professionals who have been active in the goldsmith and jewelery sector for 20 years, Mousson has quickly become a well-known brand, although so far not well known outside the borders of Russia. And breaking through was not an easy feat in a market that has always been dominated by the great Italian and French jewelers. But, perhaps, it was inevitable that local creativity was channeled into a commercial enterprise capable of producing high quality jewelry.

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri

Of course, the aesthetics of the collections are compatible with that, at times a little strong, of Russian taste. But looking at the pieces of jewelry proposed by Mousson we understand that it is a demanding production, with rings that make a great use of pavé diamonds, with large stones in the center of very intense colors. Strong stuff, in short, to warm the cold winds of the North. Each piece is unique and has its own style.

Alexander Sokolov, co founder di Mousson Atelier. Copyright-gioiellis.com
Alexander Sokolov, co founder di Mousson Atelier. Copyright-gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista
Anello in oro bianco e perla barocca
Anello in oro bianco e perla barocca
Anello con smeraldo taglio baguette e diamanti
Anello con smeraldo taglio baguette e diamanti

Mousson, anello con opale e smalto arcobaleno. Copyright-gioiellis
Mousson, anello con opale e smalto arcobaleno. Copyright-gioiellis







Minty Sky jwl jewels in the sky

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At a time when Russia is not enjoying great popularity in the West, designer Elizaveta Chaykina left Moscow to participate in GemGèneve, Switzerland. It cannot be said that the designer lacks resourcefulness: her jewels were exhibited a few meters from those of Strong & Precious, an initiative to present the work of some Ukrainian jewelry designers. But politics (and sad war events) do not have anything to do with the work of Elizaveta, who founded the Russian jewelry brand Minty Sky jwl, originally from “a Siberian city in the middle of the steppe”.

Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro giallo e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro giallo e diamanti

Liza Chaikina says it took seven years to create her own style, to develop an inner vision of beauty and an extraordinary ability to distinguish gems by touch. She is also the author of the book Russian Emptiness, and has chosen the sky as her main source of inspiration and as a reference to her brand. She uses only natural stones. For example, even gray, yellow, pink, salt and pepper diamonds, which are new in Russia. The jewels are in gold or silver, without plating, the metal “is what it seems”. In addition, together with the classic emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds, she uses rarer stones such as andesine, andalusite, iridescent garnet, tanzanite, accompanied by certificates of the gemological laboratories, attached to most of the jewels. «Our values», explains Liza Chaikina, «are ethical production located in Russia, love for nature and the world around us and emotional involvement in the process of creating a product». These are values ​​that everyone can share, even in the West.
Anello in argento con topazio e turchese
Anello in argento con topazio e turchese

Anello in argento con ametista, diamanti e tanzanite
Anello in argento con ametista, diamanti e tanzanite
Anello in argento con topazio e acquamarina
Anello in argento con topazio e acquamarina
Anello in oro bianco con tanzanite e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con tanzanite e diamanti

Anello in argento con pietra a forma di cuore
Anello in argento con pietra a forma di cuore







War splits the Responsible Jewelery Council




The war unleashed by Russia in Ukraine is also upsetting the world of diamonds. After the measures against Alrosa (a Russian mining company) decided by the United States, it is the Responsible Jewelery Council that split. And Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the Rjc, an association with about 1,500 members that sets the standards of the diamond supply chain, has resigned. In fact, the association has so far avoided suspending Alrosa.

Iris Van der Veken
Iris Van der Veken

The only change noted, in fact, is the resignation from the position of vice president of the RJC of the CEO of Alrosa, Sergey Ivanov. But the company, controlled by the Russian government, remained among the partners. The lack of a suspension has displeased many. Starting with Pandora, which is also the largest jewelry company in the world, which announced its decision to leave the organization due to RJC’s failure to suspend Russian companies (not just Alrosa) and urged its members to interrupt business with the country: “Pandora cannot , in good faith, be a member of an association that does not share our values, “said the CEO of the Danish group, Alexander Lacik.
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa
Sergey Ivanov, Ceo di Alrosa

A few hours later, the communication from the Richemont group (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Buccellati) also arrived, which specified that they did not wish to be members of “a sector organization that includes companies that contribute to the financing of conflicts and wars “. Two exits of weight, in short. Will others follow?
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan

Il diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana
Il maxi diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana







War in Ukraine and jewelry: what impact will it have?




What impact will the invasion of Ukraine and the war unleashed by Russia have on the world of jewelry? A question posed in Italy by the Goldsmiths Club and Intesa Sanpaolo, the largest bank in Italy. To understand this, an investigation was carried out for the first time involving the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The result is a photograph of the state of health of the sector, but also of the strategic indications that follow the conflict. It is not hazardous to think that the same concerns also involve jewelry companies residing in other countries. The result, presented in the context of Vicenzaoro, leaves no doubt.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Laboratorio orafo

About 78% of respondents, after the conflict, show a negative impact, with the increase in the prices of raw materials as the greatest criticality indicated by all survey participants. But the ability to react is also significant: 30% of companies are already thinking about organizational changes, in particular through a review of supply channels, but also of price lists and sales channels.

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

And to say that the picture that emerged on the Italian goldsmith industry, before the war, is positive. Almost 60% of the interviewees did not suffer a decrease in turnover even during the pandemic year 2020, or it has already completely recovered them in 2021. The Istat turnover index (Italian statistical body) shows a growth in gold and costume jewelery by over 50% in 2021 which brings the levels of 17% above those of 2019, a figure clearly above the manufacturing average (+ 9%) and above all to the other fashion sectors, which still suffer from a gap with respect to pre -pandemic.

L'incastonatura di uno smeraldo, laboratorio de Grisogono
L’incastonatura di uno smeraldo

Competitiveness on international markets is crucial for the recovery of the sector, with exports reaching an all-time record of 8.5 billion euros for gold and costume jewelery and 7.5 billion for gold jewelery alone, thanks to the excellent results achieved on all markets, in particular the United States, which strengthen its role as a first outlet. But in this atmosphere of widespread optimism, with over 73% of companies expecting further growth in turnover in 2022, the investigation by the Goldsmiths Club highlighted concerns as early as January, due to the increase in the prices of raw materials. and delays in procurement.

Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre
Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre

The companies in the sector, however, seem ready for the challenge: 60% have increased their investments in the last two years, despite the pandemic, with particular attention to training and human capital, which received the highest scores in terms of priority and was indicated by only 5% of the sample as not relevant. This is followed by the digitization of the production phase, Research and Development and the enhancement of the brand. In short, the gaze goes beyond war.

Lavorazione di gioielleria
Lavorazione di gioielleria







The jewelers that close in Russia




The real drama is that of human lives lost in vain, of overwhelmed lives, of lives that will never be the same. But the war in Ukraine also causes a smaller, much smaller, but not irrelevant, drama related to jobs, in the West and in Russia, which will be lost to a stupid aggression. Both Russians and Westerners are dealing with the inevitable sanctions announced in time, before the invasion, which will have an impact on the accounts of companies, for example those of jewelry, as well as on the people who work there. The collapse of the ruble and the blocking of the credit card service, in fact, led many jewelry companies to suspend their business. Maybe they will close completely or reopen, if it all ends, but who knows when.

Boutique De Beers a Mosca
Boutique De Beers a Mosca

At the time of writing this short article, the last Western brand to close the boutique in Moscow was Swarovski, while Tiffany was among the first to lower the shutter, along with Vuitton. Others have already done so, others will follow. The list of Western Maisons that have opened a boutique in Moscow, St. Petersburg or other Russian cities is long. In Moscow, for example, they have a boutique Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Akillis, Piaget, De Beers, H. Stern, Stephen Webster, Carrera y Carrera, Mauboussin, Mont-Blanc, Dior, Chaumet, Pandora, Frey Wille, Cartier , Trollbeads, Vuitton, Thomas Sabo, Bulgari, Pomellato, Adamas, Damiani, Buccellati. Other brands, such as Pasquale Bruni or Alcozer, are distributed in non-owned jewelers, or in airport duty free shops.
Boutique Damiani a Mosca
Boutique Damiani a Mosca

According to an analysis concerning Italian jewelery conducted by ICE (the state body for exports) in general, the Russian buyer is oriented towards medium or medium-high level jewelery. Also according to the analysis, the daily use of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, especially in the capital and large cities, is now seen as a form of accessory to one’s image, not necessarily combined with luxury clothing or for events special. The favorite items of Russian women are rings, chains and earrings; men prefer chains and bracelets, while brooches and necklaces are bought by a minority of the female population, while typically male jewelry such as cufflinks and tie pins are in low demand. In recent years, however, silver jewelery has been more successful than gold, due to the unfavorable ruble-euro exchange rate. Italy (2019 data) exports about 77 million jewels to Russia, about 22 million France, the United States 21 million and the United Kingdom 23 million. However, the one who exports the most to Russia is China with over 88 million.
Boutique Tiffany a Mosca
Boutique Tiffany a Mosca

Boutique Cartier a Mosca
Boutique Cartier a Mosca







The colorful, complex, passionated jewels of Liza Borzaya

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As a child Liza Borzaya had the nickname of puppet, which in Russian is called Pinocchio. Many years later, she had the temptation to call his Maison of jewelry. Like the character of the fairy tale written by Carlo Collodi. Then, however, Liza Borzaya simply gave her name to the Moscow-based fine jewelry brand and New York office. She defines her style as “bold, but beautiful, bright, but elegant, status, but not trivial. And that’s right.

Orecchini Gothic della collezione Classik in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini Gothic della collezione Classik in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri

It could be added that her jewels are crossed by that passion that is common in the Russian people, by a romanticism that is fascinated by nature and by the trust that many passionate customers place in the designer. Her business card, she says, was a bracelet with swallows that she created for herself in 2011, after working five years in a large European Maison. In 2015 he founded her brand. Liza Borzaya works on commission: she asks how much she wants to spend the client and gets to work. If the sketch on paper is approved (and it practically always happens), she realizes the jewel. Even the goldsmith’s work is carried out by her team of artisans, who also take care of the delicate interventions with colored enamel.

Anello con diamanti, madreperla e oro bianco
Anello con diamanti, madreperla e oro bianco
Ciondolo-orecchino a orma di ape in oro, diamanti, smalto
Ciondolo-orecchino a orma di ape in oro, diamanti, smalto
Collana Sixxy in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti, smalto
Collana Sixxy in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti, smalto
Orecchini Baubles e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Baubles e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Birds of Paradise e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Birds of Paradise e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco

Bracciale e anelli con scoiattoli in oro, smalto, gemme
Bracciale e anelli con scoiattoli in oro, smalto, gemme







Alexey Pomelnikov, the art of the tsars

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The surprising works of a master of Russian jewelry: Alexey Pomelnikov ♦ ︎
Russia, for jewelry lovers, is almost a mystery: few goldsmiths are able to make themselves known in the West. Yet Fabergé’s heirs are there and have not forgotten the art of creating high-level jewels, those that combine the ability to work with precious stones and metals with imagination that can suggest pleasant and unusual shapes. It is part of this elite of masters Alexei Leonidovich Pomelnikov, owner and designer of the Jewelry Company of Alexey Pomelnikov of St. Petersburg. His biography tells of many hours spent in front of the works exhibited at the Hermitage, but also in other museums that collect the works of Russian history.

Spilla mughetto in oro e diamanti
Spilla mughetto in oro e diamanti

With this inspiration, by Pomelnikov is reinterpreting the classical canons of ancient masterpieces of art. As it is easy to guess by admiring the works of the jeweler of St. Petersburg, his pieces are produced in a limited number and are the result of a careful study of a large number of jewelry masterpieces of the late nineteenth – early twentieth century. In fact, at the time of the tsars, Russia was one of the trendsetters of European fashion. The company of Alexey Pomelnikov exists more than 20 years: the founder had given himself the task of renewing the traditions of Russian jewelry. He succeeded.

Alexey Pomelnikov
Alexey Pomelnikov
Anello in oro e diamanti
Anello in oro e diamanti
Anello in oro, smeraldo e diamanti
Anello in oro, smeraldo e diamanti
Collana con pendente gatto in oro, diamanti, smalto
Collana con pendente gatto in oro, diamanti, smalto
Orecchini tulipano in oro, smalto e diamanti
Orecchini tulipano in oro, smalto e diamanti
Orecchini in oro, smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini in oro, smeraldi e diamanti

Orecchini in oro, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini in oro, zaffiri e diamanti







The jewels of the tsars




It was found a rare catalog that contains 406 pictures of jewels and gems belonged to the czar of Russia.

For nearly a century, thery a mystery. But now on the jewelry that belonged to Tsar it opens a new chapter. It was indeed found one of the few surviving examples (about 20) of a vintage catalog Bolshevik, an inventory of 406 jewelery seized by the revolutionaries to the Russian royal family. The catalog dates back to 1925 and is now also available online, as other 200 other rare and historically significant books on gems and jewelry, on archive.org site. The photographs are of course in black and white, but the volume is interesting because it shows, in addition to the crown jewels are exhibited in Russian museums, including pieces have disappeared.

At this link you will find the official document.

La corona imperiale
La corona imperiale

According to Dona Dirlam, director of the Gia library, which has retrieved the rare book, in 1925-1926, the Bolshevik government has published this catalog with the idea that the Romanov jewels would never have been sold.

The jewels presented in catalog are all belonged to the czars, beginning with the reign of Peter the Great, in 1689, until the end, with the last Emperor Nicholas II, who was killed in 1917. Among the 406 treasures there are the Imperial set with the Scepter which 189 carat diamond, the imperial globe, with a sapphire of 200 carats, the Great Imperial crown, and the bridal wreath. Federico Graglia

Collana con diamanti e pietre preziose
Collana con diamanti e pietre preziose
Set con collana, bracciale e orecchini
Set con collana, bracciale e orecchini
Collana con diamanti e pietre
Collana con diamanti e pietre
La copertina del catalogo
La copertina del catalogo
Diadema principesco
Diadema principesco
Set di spille
Set di spille
Copricapo con perle e diamanti
Copricapo con perle e diamanti
Spilla appartenuta agli zar
Spilla appartenuta agli zar
I gioielli della corona dei Romanov
I gioielli della corona dei Romanov

Lo zar Nicola II e famiglia
Lo zar Nicola II e famiglia







The Russian fable of Ilgiz Fazulzyanov

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Ilgiz Fazulzyanov’s creations, more than a designer is a jewelry artist. Here are the new pieces ♦

It is the story of the boy who grew up in a remote region of the world, who over the years has become a jewelry guru: Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, or more simply Ilgiz F., as he signs himself, is hailed as one of the most virtuous (from a professional point of view ) designer of the world. His creations are small works of art, in gold, enamel (traditional material of Russian jewelry), pearls and precious stones.

Anello a forma di crocus, in oro, ametista, zaffiri, smalti a caldo
Anello a forma di crocus, in oro, ametista, zaffiri, smalti a caldo

The designer was born in Tatarstan, southeast of Moscow, in 1968. Apprenticeship in the distant province went so and so. Then, Ilgiz he moved to Moscow, where he began to work with makeshift equipment (using surgical instruments in the absence of another). But his goal has centered with enamel: he said his technique to be the only one who has managed to combine French and Russian enamels, and he worked at 970 celsius degrees.

Ciondolo rondini, in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, smalto per gioielli a caldo
Ciondolo rondini, in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, smalto per gioielli a caldo

The apprenticeship in the distant province went so-so. Then, Ilgiz moved to Moscow, where he began working with makeshift means (using tools for surgery, for lack of anything else). But his goal hit him with the difficult enamel technique: he says he is the only one who has managed to combine French and Russian glazes, processed at the astonishing temperature of 970 degrees. Rings that are small masterpieces, pendants with an almost Liberty style, an all-oriental richness: these are the elements that made him win the top prize at the Hong Kong International Jewelery Show for two consecutive years. Precious jewels. And expensive: they range from € 3,000 to € 400,000 for the most elaborate pieces.

 

Orecchini con citrini, acquamarina, smalto, diamanti
Orecchini con citrini, acquamarina, smalto, diamanti

Anello in oro con diamante
Anello in oro con diamante
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov (da Facebook)
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov (da Facebook)
Pendente a forma di arlecchino con diamanti, opale, smalto
Pendente a forma di arlecchino con diamanti, opale, smalto
Orecchini con turchese, smalto, diamanti
Orecchini con turchese, smalto, diamanti

Orecchini con ametista, smalto, diamanti, smeraldi
Orecchini con ametista, smalto, diamanti, smeraldi







The hidden face of Milio shines

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Milio, a duo of Russian women (mother and daughter) who creates perfect jewels even where you don’t look ♦ ︎

Mironov, Lyudmila and Olga. In summary, Milio, a brand created by two Russian women, mother (Lyudmila) and Olga (daughter), who in 2007 in Moscow began to design and produce jewelry. theirs is a mix of art déco and Russian soul, where the typical geometries of the Swing years coexist with popular culture, for example, with the use of images like the anthropomorphic sun. A compositional freedom that is also the result of journeys around the world of the two Mironovs, a passion that coexists with that for the jazz age.

Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina, acquamarina, granato, diamante
Anello in oro 18 carati con tormalina, acquamarina, granato, diamante

The idea of ​​becoming a jewelry designer was born, they explain, after starting to make rings and bracelets for themselves, to wear as unique pieces. After they have registered the appreciations for the work, the Milio have opened their wings to a production for the others, even if theirs remains a small boutique. Another aspect that characterizes the two designers: they like to be impeccable. They also make the posterior aspect of the jewel perfect, for example, which must be finished as the front one. An accuracy that not all jewelers have.

Anello con tanzanite, tormalina, smeraldo, diamante
Anello con tanzanite, tormalina, smeraldo, diamante
bracciale art deco
Bracciale art déco con smeraldo e rubini
Spilla con zaffiri e diamanti
Spilla con zaffiri e diamanti
Milio, orecchini con smeraldi pan di zucchero
Milio, orecchini con smeraldi pan di zucchero
Anello in oro con smeraldo cabochon, diamanti, rubini
Anello in oro con smeraldo cabochon, diamanti, rubini
Anello in oro con ametista cabochon, diamanti, smeraldi, rubini
Anello in oro con ametista cabochon, diamanti, smeraldi, rubini
Orecchini in oro con ametista cabochon, diamanti, smeraldi, rubini
Orecchini in oro con ametista cabochon, diamanti, smeraldi, rubini
Medaglione in oro con pavé di diamanti
Medaglione in oro con pavé di diamanti

Lyudmila e Olga Mironov
Lyudmila e Olga Mironov







The Moiseikin’s magic gems

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The magic gems by Moiseikin: from the center of the Asian Russia, the impressive Maison jewelry.

He won one of the awards at the International Design Excellence Award 2017 in Hong Kong. But Moiseikin Jewellery is used about those exploits. La Maison is Russian, based in Yekaterinburg, city on the Asian side of the Urals. Far away from tourist routes, by the way, it is famous for being near the mines of gems that are mined in the Urals. The company was founded in 1993 by entrepreneur Viktor Moiseikin, but not only produces high-class jewelery. In its catalog there are also watches, carved stones, a production of statues (also one with Vladimir Putin and President Dmitry Medvedev).

Anello in oro, rubino, diamanti, tormaline, granati demantoidi
Anello in oro, rubino, diamanti, tormaline, granati demantoidi

The jewelry, however, are those who shine the most. For example, the Waltzing Brilliance series, which uses an international patent that enables diamonds to gently rotate around its axis created by two points of contact with the mount. “It is the first patented invention of jewelry for Russia in the last 100 years,” commented the Rapaport specialists.
The jewel that has won one of the awards in Hong Kong, for example, Feather of Miraculous Firebird, uses dozens of diamonds and garnets demantoid, alexandrite, and tanzanite spinel, which seem to take flight. Like an enchanted feather, exactly. Lavinia Andorno

Moiseikin, anello con gemme diverse
Moiseikin, anello con gemme diverse
Anello in oro bianco e zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro bianco e zaffiri rosa
Anello con diamanti e tanzanite
Anello con diamanti e tanzanite
Moiseikin, anello con gemme e perla di Tahiti
Moiseikin, anello con gemme e perla di Tahiti
Orecchini con diamanti e alessandrite
Orecchini con diamanti e alessandrite
Anello con perla della collezione Waltzing Briliance, diamanti, zaffiri, smeraldi
Anello con perla della collezione Waltzing Briliance, diamanti, zaffiri, smeraldi
Anello Wings of angel , oro bianco, diamanti e alessandriti
Anello Wings of angel , oro bianco, diamanti e alessandriti

Collezione Waltzing Brillliance, oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri
Collezione Waltzing Brillliance, oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri







Vennari, high jewelery in Florence

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Vennari Gioielli, high jewelery, lots of luxury and lots of privacy in the center of Florence

Vennari Gioielli, high jewelery in Florence. But without attracting attention: it is located in the ancient tower of via Tornabuoni, in the heart of the Tuscan city. In short, a place rich in history. Yet, still, it describes itself as a high jewelery brand that has made itself known through a long history of family goldsmith tradition. In addition to Florence, it is based in the center of Milan, as well as shops in other countries: certainly two in Russia, in Sochi and Krasnodar.

Vennari, alta gioielleria. Collana in oro bianco con kunziti, rubelliti e diamanti
Vennari, alta gioielleria. Collana in oro bianco con kunziti, rubelliti e diamanti

In short, there is little information surrounding this jewelry founded by Domenico Vennari and his wife Candida, and now carried on by his daughter Giulia, with an experience in the world of dance behind her. “The know-how left by the father and supported by the unmistakable taste of the mother in designing jewels, creates with Vennari a common thread that keeps spontaneity and lightness first, so that the jewel and the wearer become one”, you can read on the website. In any case, despite the homeopathic rarefaction of information, jewels are to be emphasized: large stones, high jewelery, goldsmith skills. And a lot of privacy. Federico Graglia
Collana in oro bianco con tormaline e diamanti
Collana in oro bianco con tormaline e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco e peridoti
Orecchini in oro bianco e peridoti
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, rubellite e zaffiri
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, rubellite e zaffiri
Anello in oro rosa con peridoto, diamanti e smalto
Anello in oro rosa con peridoto, diamanti e smalto
Bracciale con ametiste e peridoti
Bracciale con ametiste e peridoti
Anello Setipenti in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello della colelzione Setipenti verde in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Setipenti in oro bianco e diamanti. Prezzo: 7000 euro
Anello Setipenti rosa in oro bianco e diamanti

Diva, anello in oro bianco con diamante fancy rosa, taglio goccia, diamanti taglio trilliant e pavé di diamanti
Diva, anello in oro bianco con diamante fancy rosa, taglio goccia, diamanti taglio trilliant e pavé di diamanti







The nature of Master Exclusive Jewelery

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Master Exclusive Jewelery, from the deep Russia a Maison that produces extraordinary pieces ♦ ︎
Izhevsk is a city in Russia, capital of the Republic of Udmurtia, not far from the Ural mountains. In short, a city far from the western centers, but also from Moscow and St. Petersburg. Yet here, in 1994, began the story of Master Exclusive Jewelery founded by Andrey Platonov, a Maison that offers incredible jewels, unique pieces that are fantastic sculptures, often inspired by the world of animals and nature. But the jewelry have not, in this case, modern lines that have some analogy with natural forms.

Collezione Animal World, il Cigno nero
Collezione Animal World, il Cigno nero

Just look at small masterpieces such as the fox or the parrot to understand how the spirit is rather that of a naturalism that even seems to evoke the Flemish painters of the seventeenth century. Modern technologies, they explain to Master Exclusive Jewelery, “have opened to the jewelers a large space for experiments and allowed to create real masterpieces”. Translated: the design with the Cad programs and the computing power of the computers facilitate the creation phase of the jewel. Then, however, there is the work of realization, entrusted to the skilled hands of the artisans. The large and medium-sized precious stones also have cuts outside the usual: diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, London Blue topazes, tourmaline, opals, baroque pearls, quartz, are used to compose the shades of feathers, petals or furs of animals or flowers represented. Too bad that the West does not sufficiently know this extraordinary Maison. Rudy Serra

Spilla coniglio nel cilindro
Spilla coniglio nel cilindro
Scoiattolo in oro, perle, zaffiri orange
Scoiattolo in oro, perle, zaffiri orange
Panda con perla e diamanti bianchi e neri, smalto
Panda con perla e diamanti bianchi e neri, smalto
Volpe in oro giallo con zaffiri orange
Volpe in oro giallo con zaffiri orange
Spilla a forma di uccello con perla, oro bianco, diamanti, pietre di colore
Spilla a forma di uccello con perla, oro bianco, diamanti, pietre di colore
Uccello che succhia il nettare, Oro bianco e giallo, tormaline, zaffiri, rubino, smeraldi, diamanti
Uccello che succhia il nettare, Oro bianco e giallo, tormaline, zaffiri, rubino, smeraldi, diamanti
Scorpione con diamanti neri e rubini
Scorpione con diamanti neri e rubini
Pesce con pavé di diamanti neri e zaffiri
Pesce con pavé di diamanti neri e zaffiri
Anello in oro a forma di frutto con peridoto
Anello in oro a forma di frutto con peridoto
Coccodrillo con perla, rubini, oro giallo, smeraldi
Coccodrillo con perla, rubini, oro giallo, smeraldi
Bulldog francese, oro bianco con diamanti e perla
Bulldog francese, oro bianco con diamanti e perla

Anello con topazio blue London
Anello con topazio blue London







Gismondi 1754 lands in the former USSR countries

From Genoa to the great Russia or, better, to the states that make up the former Soviet Union galaxy. That is Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, countries that are part of the Csi (Commonwealth of Independent States) and which are now the subject of an agreement of Gismondi 1754. It is a contract agency to extend its presence in the countries of the Russian Federation and the Commonwealth of Independent States, to which is added an agreement for distribution in Russia with RossoRelativo Russia, an import-export technical distribution company for the country’s market.

Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754
Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754

Gismondi 1754 has already been present for two years in Russia at the Monza multibrand store in St. Petersburg, by virtue of the concession with Gold Union, which will be part of the global expansion plan of the brand in Russian territory. Having signed these two new contracts also brings with it a strong symbolic value, as well as commercial, because it testifies to the strong redemption achieved by the Gismondi 1754 Brand even within a very large territory such as the one covered by the agreements.
Collezione Dedalo, pendente in oro rosa, diamanti e ceramica bianca
Collezione Dedalo, pendente in oro rosa, diamanti e ceramica bianca

We have entrusted our brand to a highly experienced agent who has always been involved in promoting great brands in the Russian market. I am convinced that we will have a fast and solid expansion in this very large area, creating a network of dealers able to bring our product and our tailor made services closer to customers, as happened in other prestigious locations such as St. Moritz, Portofino and Milan, where the attraction towards the concept of classic and contemporary jewelery by Gismondi 1754 was immediately successful. I would like to underline that in 2020, despite the slowdowns and difficulties related to the pandemic, the Company has already signed expansion agreements and contracts in Italy, in the Gulf area and now in Eastern Europe, as well as opening dealers in Italy, Montecarlo , Oman, Qatar and Dubai. All this to symbolize the great commitment made to allow Gismondi 1754 to perform at its best despite all adversities; It has been a year full of commitments and energy that bodes well for the future of the Brand.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi
Massimo Gismondi







Mark Baldin, Siberian creations

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The exuberant Siberian creations by Mark Baldin, art without rules ♦ ︎
His name is Mark Baldin and he works in Novosibirsk, the capital city of the Novosibirsk region in the Russian Federation and the Siberian Federal District. In short, it is very easy that if you are not Russian, do not even know it exists. In that distant city Mark Baldin designs jewels that appear at the same time as western and oriental. A bit like Russian fairy tales, they have something ancient and romantic at the same time.

Mark Baldin, orecchini
Mark Baldin, orecchini

They are jewels, moreover, that do not follow any rule except that of the designer’s inspiration. Flowers, insects, abstract shapes, are built through a set of intricate architectures in gold, silver, and large stones of color, with bold contrasts and contamination of different styles. The combination of the different surfaces, opaque and polished, together with a mix of precious and semi-precious stones, in exuberant shapes, are unique in the world of jewelry. The name of his brand, the studio Art Mark Baldin, underlines the reference point of the jeweler’s activity: more sculptures than jewelry, but to wear. Giulia Netrese

Pendente a forma di croce
Pendente a forma di croce
Medaglione con drago
Medaglione con drago
Mark Baldin, spilla in titanio e oro con diamanti e iolite
Mark Baldin, spilla in titanio e oro con diamanti e iolite
Anello Città del Sole in oro, titanio, diamanti, citrino
Anello Città del Sole in oro, titanio, diamanti, citrino
Anello Galaxy in oro con parti mobili
Anello Galaxy in oro con parti mobili
Anello in oro, titanio, tanzanite, zaffiro, citrino
Anello in oro, titanio, tanzanite, zaffiro, citrino
Bracciale Ice, oro, diamanti e acquamarina
Bracciale Ice, oro, diamanti e acquamarina
Pendente Città del Sole
Pendente Città del Sole, oro, titanio, diamanti, citrino
Farfalla in oro, titanio, pietre preziose. Personalizzabile
Farfalla in oro, titanio, pietre preziose. Personalizzabile
Orecchini Ice, oro, diamanti e acquamarina
Orecchini Ice, oro, diamanti e acquamarina







In fairy tales with Ichien

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From Russia with love: the fairytale jewels of Ichien, a small Maison in Moscow ♦ ︎
Like other Russian Maison, Ichien is not widely known in the West. Yet it is worth looking closely at the work of the company founded in Moscow in 2008. Its name, first of all: it is in honor of the founder and chief designer of the Mher Karapetyan Tigranovich brand, known as Ichien, born and lived in the small Armenian town of Echmiadzin. He then studied at the Art College of Yerevan in the Faculty of Painting. In 1999 he moved to Moscow and for two years he studied at the art institute named after VI Surikov. As he recounts, his path in jewelry began in the library of the Surikov Institute.

Anello in oro diamanti, zaffiri, ametista
Anello in oro diamanti, zaffiri, ametista

Studying the art of the early twentieth century in the library, in one of the books the young man saw the sketches of Alfons Mucha’s jewels. And from that moment he attended the institute’s library just to study the jewels. “I was very lucky,” he says today. “From the beginning I met and made friends with jewelers who were very demanding about fairness and quality of work and were anxious to do something new. With them he started working and at the same time studying jewelry “.
The young Armenian designer then went to India and Taiwan, where he studied acupuncture and painting. In India, he met the Zen Master, who gave him a new name: Ichien. The word in Chinese means “a look”. In 2008 Mher-Ichien returned to Moscow and opened the company that bears his new name. His work has already received awards from major international jewelry design competitions, in particular the Hong Kong Design Excellence Awards. Alessia Mongrando

Ciondolo in oro, lapislazzulo, diamanti
Ciondolo in oro, lapislazzulo, diamanti
Anello Dakini, in oro, turchese, diamanti
Anello Dakini, in oro, turchese, diamanti
Anello Ciuffolotto, in oro bianco, diamanti, rubini, zaffiri e topazio
Anello Ciuffolotto, in oro bianco, diamanti, rubini, zaffiri e topazio
Pendente e orecchini indossati
Pendente e orecchini indossati
Anello Sogno Velenoso. All'interno nasconde un teschio
Anello Sogno Velenoso. All’interno nasconde un teschio
Disegno, elaborazione e realizzazione di un anello in oro e pietre
Disegno, elaborazione e realizzazione di un anello in oro e pietre

Anello in oro bianco e matista
Anello in oro bianco e matista







Zelenin’s oblique wedding ring

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Wedding or engagement rings that adapt to the true shape of the hand: this is the innovative idea of ​​the Russian Maison Zelenin ♦ ︎

Do this amazing experiment: look at your hand. All right, you’ve seen it since you were born. But did you observe it well? No. If you had really looked at your hand, you would have noticed that the ring finger fits on the palm with an oblique line. Seen? Have you ever noticed? Despite this, wedding or engagement rings do not consider human anatomy and are always straight, a circle that does not fit the shape of the hand.
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It must be the reasoning that Olga Sutyagina and Roman Zelenin made to get to design a ring that fits the real shape of the hand. The egg of Columbus, to which, however, no one had ever thought of before the young Maison Zelenin did it. The jewelery brand is based in Kostroma, Russia, but has the ambition to be available soon in the other countries of the globe. Comfortable, adaptable to the anatomical shape of the fingers, the ring is called Deep and was presented at VicenzaOro September. And, according to the creators, the shape of the Deep ring also symbolizes deep feelings that will last forever.

Olga Sutyagina con l'anello Deep. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Olga Sutyagina con l’anello Deep. Copyright: gioiellis.com

One of the advantages of the Deep ring is, however, comfort: it is more easily worn and more pleasant to have on the finger, according to the experience of those who tried it. The inclined ring can be enriched in different ways, even with diamonds: Zelenin has chosen those created in the laboratory, white or colored, to spread the idea of ​​efficient luxury. Speaking of luxury: Zelenin has also created an unusual metal and stone hummingbird to testify to the concepts of skill and lightness.





Roman Zelenin. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Roman Zelenin. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anelli di Zelenin
Anelli di Zelenin

Il colibri by Zelenin
Il colibri by Zelenin







Axenoff, from Russia with love

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Jewelery inspired by the Russian tradition of Axenoff. For those who love the romantic atmosphere of War and Peace ♦ ︎

The tradition of Russian culture and costume is part of the history of the arts. From the books of Lev Tolstoy to the paintings by Ivan Glazunov, the Russian soul was portrayed by writers and painters. Now also by jewelery. Axenoff Gioielli is a Russian brand, also sold to the West on sites like Moda Operandi, inspired by the Russian royal family and popular traditions. The goal is to create a synthesis between past and present. The designer Petr Aksenov, with a father which was icon painter, has been in touch with the most traditional artistic world since childhood.

Orecchini della collezione Fiabe Russe in argento, topazi incolori, ametista, agata verde, granato
Orecchini della collezione Fiabe Russe in argento, topazi incolori, ametista, agata verde, granato

Axenoff’s jewels are therefore made of silver and stones such as topaz, onyx, lapis lazy moonstone, turquoise, agate and garnet. But also with more expensive materials such as platinum, gold, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. But, above all, they take on motives like painted flowers, icons and colors that are the distinctive sign of Russian folk art. With a style that would be loved by heroines of great novels by Aleksandr Sergeyev Puskin or Fedor Dostoyevsky. Perfect for those who feel a bit Anna Karenina. Lavinia Andorno




Orecchini in argento, topazi blu e incolori, smalto
Orecchini in argento, topazi blu e incolori, smalto

Collezione Guerra e Pace. Orecchini in argento, topazi incolori, perle
Collezione Guerra e Pace. Orecchini in argento, topazi incolori, perle
Collezione Scheherazade. Anello in argento placcato oro con ametiste, citrini
Collezione Scheherazade. Anello in argento placcato oro con ametiste, citrini
Orecchini libellule in argento, zirconi e perle
Orecchini libellule in argento, zirconi e perle
Orecchini pendenti Crown Sovereigns
Orecchini pendenti Crown Sovereigns
Spilla Slitta Gelida. Argento, topazi incolori
Spilla Slitta Gelida. Argento, topazi incolori

Spilla collezione Guerra e Pace in argento placcato oro, topazi e smalto
Spilla collezione Guerra e Pace in argento placcato oro, topazi e smalto