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The secrets of rhodium jewelry

What is rhodium plating? And how do you clean a rhodium-plated jewel? Here’s what you need to know about rhodium plating and what the differences are with a non-rhodium-plated jewel ♦

How many times have you read that a jewel is rhodium plated, but do not you know what that means? If you are among those (many) who do not know the meaning of the word rhodium, and what the rhodium needs, read this article. It will erases away any doubt about rhodium, but it will also teach how to clean and store jewels treated with rhodium.

A sinistra rodiature, a destra metallo opacizzato
Left rhodium plating, right opaque metal

What is it

As the word indicates, rhodium plating is a process that is used for jewels and uses a particular metal called rhodium. It is a rare, white, very durable metal. It is often used in alloy with platinum to increase the hardness of that metal. The rhodium is not only very durable, but also used to make other metals more shining. It is, however, very expensive: its price exceeds that of platinum and gold.

Anello Mezzaluna Collection in oro bianco rodiato nero e diamanti
Al Coro, Mezzaluna Collection ring in black rhodium-plated white gold and diamonds

The rhodium plating
The jewelery plating consists of covering the jewel with the thin layer of rhodium. The minimum layer thickness is 0.1 micron, the maximum 25 micron. Rhodium is often used to shine white gold and, rarely, silver: it is, in fact, a fairly expensive procedure. The method for plating a jewel is similar to what you use to cover it with the gold: it is a galvanic process. In practice, they use electricity and a bathroom where rhodium microparticles are found, covering the jewel metal with a thin layer. The result is a much brighter metal.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Milano di Pomellato
Ring in white gold and diamonds from the Milano collection by Pomellato

Because rhodium is used

The rhodium is used to make the shiny jewel, but also because it protects metal from corrosion and wear, and preserves its original appearance. Finally, rhodium is usually tolerated by allergic people, for example, nickel that has often been used in gold alloy. The rhodium cover prevents the skin from touching the jewel metal. Of course, if you are not allergic to rhodium …

Bracciale in argento rodiato con diamanti neri. Prezzo: 33.600 euro
Georg Jensen, rhodium silver bracelet with black diamonds 

How to keep rhodium
As we have written, the plating process consists of metal covering with a thin film of rhodium. Rhodium is a durable metal, of course, but with time it all wears off. To keep the the jewel plated longer, and therefore to keep the glitter of the jewel, be careful not to rub the metal against objects that can scratch it. Also, it is not advisable to clean the metal with aggressive detergents. Better a very soft and simple water cloth, or a toothbrush, provided it does not have hard bristles.
Bracciale Annali. Diamanti, tanzanite cabochon, oro rodiato
Neha Dani, Annali bracelet. Diamonds, cabochon tanzanite, rhodium-plated gold

You can do it later?
If you have a jewel that has a few years and with a matte metal, you can turn to a jeweler to polish the metal with a rhodium. The cost depends (besides what the jeweler wants to collect) from the thickness of the metal that is added to the jewel.
Anello in argento rodiato con finitura oro e cubic zirconia bianchi
Rhodium plated silver ring with gold finish and white cubic zirconia

Nigaam with colored rhodium for the Serpens collection

The American luxury jewelry brand Nigaam Jewels is launching a new collection, which will be available after the events in Las Vegas with Luxury/Jck. Nigaam started in 1970 in India on the initiative of Narendra Kumar Nigam, who founded a small company for cutting stones. In 1996 he opened an office in New York and presented the brand. The Nigam brothers have continued the tradition of gem jewelry, including the new collection which bears the name of Serpens.

Bracciale con rodio blu e diamanti
Bracciale con rodio blu e diamanti

The line includes jewels which, as the name indicates, are inspired by snake motifs. For the Serpens collection, the designers of the American Maison have chosen a pioneering technique using colored rhodium, an element of the platinum group, which is used in jewelry to add shine and brilliance to the metals of the jewelry. The addition of rhodium color makes the Serpens collection unique. In addition to colored rhodium, the jewels are made in 18-karat white and yellow gold, together with diamonds and natural precious stones. Pieces in the collection are available starting at $1,600.
Bracciale con rodio rosa
e diamanti
Bracciale con rodio rosa
e diamanti

Anelli e orecchino della collezione Serpens indossati
Anelli e orecchino della collezione Serpens indossati

Orecchini in oro rodiato e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro rodiato e smeraldi

A white gold ring?

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White gold is the metal you like best, especially those who get married. But do you really know everything about white gold? Maybe you think of buying a ring? This metal, in fact, has strengths, but also some flaws: better to know everything first. In this article, we explain the characteristics and weaknesses of white gold.

Il classico anello in oro bianco e tre diamanti di Tiffany & co.
Il classico anello in oro bianco e tre diamanti di Tiffany & co.

According to the American marketing company GemFind, in fact, the most searched metal on the web in 2019 was 14 carat white gold, with 41% of clicks, followed by 18 carat white gold with 11%. In short, over half of the research concerns precisely white gold: a sign that it is the preferred metal, certainly in the USA and in Europe.

Anello in oro bianco
Bluespirit, anello in oro bianco

Why gold turns white
Gold in nature is yellow. White gold, in fact, is obtained by mixing the original yellow metal with other elements to lighten the color. The most common alloy for making gold white includes nickel, palladium, platinum and manganese. But sometimes copper, zinc or silver are also used, but these metals have contraindications because they can oxidize on contact with air and skin. Alternatively, a thin platinum plating (which is naturally white) in alloy with iridium, ruthenium or cobalt can be used, which add strength to this alloy.

Anello ondulato in oro bianco e diamanti
Orsini, anello ondulato in oro bianco e diamanti

How much yellow gold is there in white gold?
It depends on the carats, a measure that serves to indicate the proportion between the yellow gold contained and the other metals. 18-karat white gold is composed of 75% original metal and 25% other metals. 14-karat gold has only 58.3% of natural gold and for 9-karat white gold the proportion is reduced to 37.5%.

Anello in oro bianco e diamante taglio marquise
C&C, anello in oro bianco e diamante taglio marquise

The right color for white
Many buy a white gold ring because it has a very simple color and is shiny on one finger, perhaps because there is also a beautiful diamond in addition to metal. But white gold isn’t actually polished. Indeed, it is opaque. The glossy white, in fact, is obtained with the rhodium-plated metal plating, a patina is applied to all the white gold jewels. Without rhodium plating, white gold may appear gray, tending to beige or pale pink.

Anello in oro bianco di Damiani
Anello in oro bianco di Damiani

Nickel allergies
Warning: white gold, especially in the past, has often been obtained with the massive use of nickel, which corrects the yellowish white tinge. But nickel is also a metal that can cause allergies: about one in eight women suffers from it. Those who suffer from nickel allergies must make sure that the white gold that contains nickel has been rhodium: the external patina, in fact, avoids the contact of nickel with the skin.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Milano di Pomellato
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Milano di Pomellato

Plating
As we have mentioned, white gold jewelry usually has a platinum or rhodium plating. Plating makes the jewelry sparkly, but it also has two weaknesses. The first is that plating prevents a ring from being easily tightened or enlarged. Because, of course, rhodium plating must be done again. The second problem is that this patina fades over time and must be applied again. Rhodium plating can also be lost due to sweat from the skin or frequent contact with detergents, other metals or commonly used items. Therefore, if you wear the ring often, the rhodium plating should be done every two years or so. If you do not do the rhodium plating again, the ring will begin to have a yellow and opaque hue. But don’t be afraid, it’s an operation that lasts a couple of hours and is not too expensive.

Qayten, anello Origami in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti
Qayten, anello Origami in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti






The new jewels of the Arcana collection of Pianegonda

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Arcana was, in 2017, one of the first successful collections of the second life of Pianegonda, the one signed by the Bros Manifatture group. The collection features shiny surfaces, which reflect forms with a vaguely Gothic appearance, with planes and curves that intersect and originate angular geometries. Thanks also to a refined advertising campaign, the silver made black and shiny of the Arcana collection has conquered many hearts and convinced as many wallets.

https://gioiellis.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/collana-pianegonda.jpg
Collana in argento rodiato black e spinelli della collezione Arcana

At VincenzaOro January 2020, Pianegonda presented new pieces to the collection. It is a necklace, a bracelet and two pairs of earrings. The new jewels are always made of silver with black electroplating and the addition of black spinels, which give an aggressive but stylish look.
Bracciale della collezione Arcana
Bracciale della collezione Arcana

Orecchini della collezione Arcana
Orecchini della collezione Arcana

Orecchini in argento rodiato della collezione Arcana
Orecchini in argento rodiato della collezione Arcana







La Olla della Diva 

[wzslider]In natura la olla è una cavità tonda, un piccolo lago dove l’acqua di sorgente riaffiora per volontà dell’uomo, ma nella collezione disegnata da Diva Gioielli, azienda udinese specializzata nella lavorazioni di gioielli in argento 925, questo elemento ha invece la forma di una macro montatura a cilindro in argento 925. La olla circonda una zirconia cubica come fosse una risorgiva tipica delle pianura friulana. Il gioiello è disponibile anche in oro placcato 23,5 carati, rodio, rosa dorato o marrone. G.N.

ukThe Diva’s Olla

In nature the olla is a round cavity, a small lake where spring water emerges through the will of man, but in the collection designed by Diva Gioielli, Udine based company specialized in the manufacturing of jewelry in sterling silver 925, this element has instead the form of a macro cylinder. The olla sourrounds a cubic zirconia as if it were a spring water typical of the Friuli’s flatlands. The jewel is also available in gold plated 23.5 carat, Rhodium rose gold or brown.

france-flagLa Olla de Diva

Dans la nature, la olla est une cavité ronde, un petit lac où l’eau de source émerge à travers la volonté de l’homme, mais dans la collection dessinée par Diva Gioielli, société basée a Udine et spécialisée dans la fabrication de bijoux en argent sterling 925, cet élément au lieu de la forme d’un cylindre macro. Le olla entoure une zircone cubique comme s’il s’agissait d’une eau de source typique des plaines du Frioul. Le bijou est aussi disponible en plaqué or 23,5 carats, rhodié or rose ou brun.

german-flagDie olla der Diva

In der Natur der olla ist eine runde Aussparung, ein kleiner See, wo Quellwasser durch den Willen des Menschen entsteht, sondern in der Sammlung entworfen von Diva Schmuck, Udine Unternehmen spezialisiert in der Herstellung von Schmuck aus Sterling Silber 925, dieses Element der Form, hat statt eines Makro-Zylinder. Die olla umgibt ein Zirkonia, als ob es ein typisches der friaulischen Flachland Quellwasser waren. Das Juwel ist auch in vergoldet 23,5 Karat, Rhodium, Roségold oder braun.

flag-russiaOlla из Diva

В природе Olla круглая выемка, небольшое озеро, где родниковая вода выходит через воли человека, но в коллекции, разработанной Diva Gioielli, компания Удине специализируется на производстве ювелирных изделий в стерлингового серебра 925, этот элемент имеет вместо форма макро цилиндра.Olla окружает кубического циркония, как будто это были родниковая вода типично равнинной Фриули в. Драгоценный камень также доступна в позолоченными 23,5 карат, родия, розового золота или коричневый.

spagna-okLa Olla de Diva

En la naturaleza la olla es un foco redondo, un pequeño lago donde el agua de manantial emerge a través de la voluntad del hombre, sino en la colección diseñada por Diva Gioielli, empresa con sede en Udine especializada en la fabricación de joyería en plata de ley 925, este elemento tiene lugar la forma de un cilindro macro. La olla rodea un circonio cúbico como si se tratara de un agua mineral típico de llanuras del Friuli. La joya también está disponible en oro chapado 23,5 quilates, rodio, oro rosa o marrón.