GemGenève

Designers and new talents at GemGèneve

From the beginning GemGèneve has proposed a mix of exhibitors of gems, vintage jewellery, but also new talents and emerging designers. And also for the next edition of GemGenève (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of the Palexpo) Nadège Totah curated the Emerging Talents & New Designers space. The area dedicated to new creators always attracts the attention of visitors. For the eighth edition, the organizers of GemGenève have selected five Emerging Talents and five New Designers, some of whom will debut at the Geneva event.

Nadège Totah
Nadège Totah

William Griffiths. He is an English jeweler who now works in Australia and who trained in London at the family jewelery house in Hatton Garden. He gained professional experience from Barcelona to Auckland, finally settling in Melbourne in 2004 and founding his own brand. He proposes creations that are both sculptural and mystical.
Shavarsh Hakobian. The Armenian designer returns after participating in GemGèneve in November and returns with new, completely new pieces. Graduated from the Yerevan Academy of Fine Arts, he founded the brand under his name in 2008.
Shavarsh Hakobian. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Shavarsh Hakobian. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Villa Milan. Another return after debuting in November. In reality it is a jewelry store that has emerged for some time, given that it was founded in 1889. Now, however, the new creative director Alice Villa, together with her sister Francesca, has infused new energy and ideas into the Maison.
Alice Villa
Alice Villa. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Aso Leon. It’s a return for him too. The designer works in China inspired by Zen philosophy. He embodies the nouvelle vague of Chinese high jewelery and will present new pieces that combine titanium, his specialty, and exceptional gems.
Aso Leon. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Aso Leon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jaqueline Powers. It is the name of an American brand behind which are two Miami-based designers: Corina Tahuil and Vince Gerardis. She merges the world of jewelry with that of fashion and considers jewelry to be wearable art.
A. Win Siu. The Chinese designer also returns to Geneva with new jewels. Founded in 2017 by designer Xiao Xintong, it is a maison that offers pop and colorful creations, such as brooches that look like candy and gun-shaped jewelry.
Xiao Xintong. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Xiao Xintong. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Lagarde. It is the brand founded by Estelle Lagarde, who started out as a gouache designer for high jewelry. Then, she decided to do it alone. In 2023 you presented your first collection.

Diana Zhang. Having risen to prominence ten years ago at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris, Diana Zhang is today one of the most influential figures on the Asian art scene. She sees jewelry as a means to explore the meaning of life. Her surprisingly lifelike jewelry reflects a reality rewritten by means of precious stones.
Diva Jewels. The Indian jeweler Rishi Mehta returns to GemGèneve with his mobile jewels, the result of daring compositions with titanium and gems: articulated hummingbirds, parrots, all the pieces of Diva Jewels are made en tremblant.

Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Chang Ho Art Jewellery. From Hong Kong, the designer Ho Siu Chong, to perfect his technique, also continued his training in Italy and the United Kingdom. Before founding the brand with his name, the creator worked for several years for the prestigious Hong Kong jeweler Cheng & Cheung.
Alicia Stanska. Polish, she proposes a meeting between fashion and jewellery, which uses embroidery to embellish fabrics with precious stones and crystals. A great expert in the Lunéville technique created in the 19th century, Alicia Stanska has elevated embroidery with beads and sequins to an art level.

The mysteries of opal in GemGèneve

The mysteries, charm and ambiguity of a gem that differs completely from the others: the opal. The eighth edition of GemGèneve (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of Palexpo, Geneva) will also offer an exhibition dedicated to the most enigmatic stone. The iridescence of opal is one of the most suggestive aspects. She was nicknamed Queen of Gemstones by William Shakespeare, and she won the favor of Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.

Series Lollipop Opal Brooch, with diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium
A.Win Siu, Lollipop brooch with opal, diamonds, tanzanite, tsavorite, enamel, aluminum

The exhibition, Flames of Opal Essence, is divided into a selection of around 50 jewels and works of art with a journey through the mysteries of iridescence. The scenography designed by the Autre Idée agency highlights all the properties of this stone. The exhibition is curated by the director of GemGenève, Mathieu Dekeukelaire, with the support of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva, Piaget, Imagem and Boris Chauviré, doctor of mineralogy at GeoGems, as scientific collaborator.

Thanks to the dialogue between jewels and contemporary art, Flames of Opal Essence traces a sensorial, graphic and initiatory journey to reveal all the mysteries of iridescence.
Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors

Nadège Totah. Photo David Fraga
Nadège Totah. Photo: David Fraga

In its collections, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva (MAH) has numerous antique pieces set with opals. Some will be on display in the exhibition, such as a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, with an opal set, which hides a tiny secret compartment in which a child’s thin lock of hair is kept.

Vhernier, spille con opale, cristallo di rocca e diamanti. Faerber Collection
Vhernier, brooches with opal, rock crystal and diamonds. Faerber Collection

Due to its characteristics, opal was long considered a cursed and unloved stone in ancient times. For this reason it was rarely used in jewelry before the 19th century.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Imagem, dettaglio di opale
Imagem, detail of opal
Kreis Jewellery, anello con opale nero australiano di 8,80 carati
Kreis Jewellery, 8.80 carat Australian black opal ring
piaget White gold. Opal dial. 44 marquise cut diamonds
Piaget, watch with opal and marquise-cut diamonds
Boris Chauviré
Boris Chauviré

Competitions and prizes at GemGèneve

As always, GemGenève combines business with pleasure or, more precisely, business with moments of training. The eighth edition scheduled from 9 to 12 May at the Palaexpo in Geneva is no exception. Alongside the jewels and gems of the exhibitors, there will be meetings and educational projects developed throughout the year in collaboration with the eight partner schools. Students from Head, the Vallée de Joux Technical School, Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués, CFP Arts Genève, and the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur are invited to express their creativity and submit their work to professionals for the first time. , of the Société Royale Belge de Gemmologie, of the Galdus School and of the Francesco Degni Institute, who have the opportunity to exhibit their projects.

GemGenève has also developed an artistic mentoring program. The initiative, born from an idea by Mathieu Dekeukelaire, allows us to build bridges between the present and the future, federating a community that recognizes the right value in learning and transmitting know-how.

Uno dei momenti didattici a GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com
One of the teaching moments at GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gemgenève X Head in collaboration with the Grand Théâtre de Genève
For the fourth consecutive year GemGenève will offer around fifteen students from Head, the only school in Switzerland to offer a bachelor’s degree in product, jewelery and accessories design, the opportunity of their first exhibition based on a theme freely inspired by the programming of the Grand Théâtre de Genève. Visitors to the show will be able to discover a series of projects inspired by the opera The Knight of the Rose by Richard Strauss. The idea is to imagine a jewel that symbolizes commitment, but is also a real prop. Ring, necklace, bracelet or tiara: the jewel must be visible from afar and made exclusively with recycled, recovered or unusual materials. All visitors to the exhibition will be invited to vote for their favorite project.
Design 3D Project Feh X Head. Emma Faisandel, Madeleine Chaumette
Design 3D Project Feh X Head. Emma Faisandel, Madeleine Chaumette

First photomicrography competition
This year, GemGenève offers its visitors a poetic gemological experience. In the hope of discovering the beauty of gems in an unusual way, the salon has developed an original artistic project in collaboration with gemologist Marine Bouvier, the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur and the Royal Belgian Gemmological Society. GemGenève hosts the first exhibition of photomicrographs. Almost 20 photographic projects created by the students of the two partner training proposals will be revealed to the public for the first time, to reveal the beauty of precious and colored stones by sublimating their inclusions. By revealing the inexhaustible shapes, textures and colors of gems, Marine Bouvier has created a new way of practicing gemology. For this first competition the passionate gemologist introduced the students to the art of capturing the beauty of minerals.
Rubino birmano grezzo
Rough Burmese ruby

For its 8th edition, GemGenève continues its collaboration with Laura Inghirami and Mathieu Dekeukelaire, who created an unprecedented competition on the mystical theme of the totem animal. Fauna creatures, an inexhaustible source of inspiration, have always stimulated the imagination of jewelers. Using the animal as a creative challenge, GemGenève offers the young prodigies of the Galdus School and the Francesco Degni Institute the chance to create their first bestiary. Some projects, investigating the symbolic link between the human world and the animal world, proved to be particularly poetic.

GemGèneve will also host six awards for the most creative projects. The awards ceremony will be chaired by Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director of GemGenève, in the presence of all the institutions that collaborated on the various projects.

Project GemGenève x Head. Clara Fichaux
Project GemGenève x Head. Clara Fichaux

To offer students the opportunity to develop their first professional project of excellence, GemGenève launched its first gouache competition in 2022. Thanks to the success of the competition, which engages students for several months, GemGenève has become a springboard. The gouache competition, supported with the Eric Horovitz Foundation Prize, is highly appreciated by operators in the sector and is organized every year with the support of Asmebi (Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie). Gouache, or gouache, is a drawing technique used in jewelry and a point of reference for model makers, jewelers, gemologists, polishers and setters in every phase of the creation of a jewel.

Projet Feh x Head. Shell, design 3D, Emma Faisandel et Madeleine Chaumette
Projet Feh x Head. Shell, design 3D, Emma Faisandel et Madeleine Chaumette

New brands at GemGèneve

New brands arriving for the eighth edition of GemGenève, an event dedicated to jewelery and gems which will be held from 9 to 12 May in pavilion 1 of the Palexpo in Geneva. Over 200 exhibitors are expected, including more than 190 professional traders from all over the world. But the organizers, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah, founders of the show, expect around 220 participants for the new edition.

For exhibitors, GemGenève represents more than a show: it is a community, a state of mind. With Ida Faerber, our goal is to preserve its special atmosphere, because that is what makes the salon so attractive and stunning.
Nadège Totah

Nadège Totah
Nadège Totah

For this new edition, GemGenève recorded a record number of bookings: 16% of participants return to GemGenève since its debut and is now at its eighth presence. Furthermore, the fair will welcome eight new exhibitors. As in previous editions, American exhibitors will take the lion’s share: they alone represent a fifth of the total participants, but there will be a total of 21 countries represented. Among the new brands present, one of note is the American Seaman Schepps, founded in 1904 in Los Angeles, before moving to New York in 1921, to the eclectic Lower East Side neighborhood. In the 1930s, the company established itself as one of the most creative by playing the exclusivity card. Seaman Schepps’ aesthetic vocabulary, characterized by creations with exuberant colors and original textures, is inspired by the energy of Manhattan.
Seaman Schepps, spilla con scena marina realizzata con nefrite giada e alghe dorate, tormalina rosa,iolite, conchiglie di tormalina watermelon, oro, acquamarina, perle e diamanti
Spilla con scena marina realizzata con giada nefrite e alghe dorate, tormalina rosa e pesce iolite, conchiglie di tormalina oro e anguria e acqua acquamarina, con accenti di perle e diamanti

Another novelty for GemGèneve is ALine Collection, a Swiss Maison specialized in stones of rare and unusual colors discovered by Alexander Leuenberger, who travels all over the world in search of exceptional precious stones and is also the owner of the most productive sapphire mine in Madagascar. Atelier Munsteiner, a signature of contemporary design, also arrives at the Geneva show. Who passed away on December 28, Tom Munsteiner was a jeweler and a sculptor, but above all a great artist. His work, unquestionably modern, today enjoys international notoriety. The laboratory will be run by his wife Jutta and son Philipp.
Atelier Munsteiner, anello in platino e tanzanite
Atelier Munsteiner, platinum and tanzanite ring

For gems, Vlad Yavorskyy, a profound connoisseur of precious stones, works between the United States and Indonesia. A great specialist in emerging mines, his knowledge of colored stones led him to publish six books on the subject. Hakimi & Sons, United States is a family business, in business since the 1940s, founded in New York in 1983 by Abraham Hakimi and his sons, William and Robert. For vintage jewellery, another brand added to GemGèneve is that of Steven Neckman, which offers pieces of extraordinary design and technique from the Edwardian era to the Nineties. The Maison Garaude, on the other hand, has mainly offered untreated rubies, sapphires, emeralds and spinels since 1995. Patrick Flückiger’s specialty is pearls. A former professional diver with a passion for the sea, in 2006 he founded Swiss Pearls, a company specializing in natural and cultured pearls, but also ancient, rare and historical pearls. Flückiger also specializes in precious stones: emeralds, rubies, sapphires and old-cut diamonds.

Spinelli rossi di Vlad Yavorskyy
Red Spinels by Vlad Yavorskyy

GemGenève returns and focuses on opal

Appointment for Thursday 9 May with the eighth edition of GemGenève, which will end on Sunday 12 May. The event which brings together operators in the vintage, design and large gems jewelery sector will still take place at Palexpo, pavilion 1. The show has already received the participation, for now, of over 180 selected exhibitors (there were 210 last year ). GemGenève, open to the public, will take place in conjunction with the Geneva Luxury Week and the major jewelry auctions. In this edition too, the event aims to present a mix of business and jewelery culture, as anticipated by the director, Mathieu Dekeukelaire.

GemGenève talk. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGenève talk. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In May 2024, for example, GemGenève will host an exhibition entirely dedicated to opal. The organizational details include a press conference on Wednesday 8 May at 11:00, preceded by a guided tour of the exhibition at 10:00. The preview will be held on the same day starting from 2.00 pm. The ceremony will begin at 6:00 pm. The setup will also be new: the designers of Autre Idée thought of the theme of Travel and Movements to ennoble Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo.

Gemstones and jewelery design are of primary importance to us, as is the spirit of unity and synergy within the international community of gemstone and antique jewelery dealers, designers and enthusiasts in the sector.
Thomas Faerber, Co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com

GemGenève 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGenève 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Umrao, scent of ancient India

The ancient charm of India of Rajasthan in the traditional jewelry of the Maison Umrao in Jaipur ♦ ︎

The millennial history of India, ancient traditions, legends, rituals, spirituality, folklore, craftsmanship, love for luxury … Put all this in an ancient brass vase together with fragrant incense. The result is Umrao, jeweler of Jaipur, Rajasthan, flag bearer of the tradition of the great Asian country.

Choker tradizionale con diamanti taglio polki
Traditional choker on 24k gold with polki cut diamonds

Its jewels, in addition to a particularly rich and elaborate appearance, are anchored in the Hindu tradition. For example, with jewels that follow the principle of Navaratna: nine stones on a single piece, usually a necklace. Navaratna stones are ruby, diamond, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, emerald, red coral, pearl, cat’s eye and hessonite: they represent the energies of nine astrological planets. In fact, each stone is considered to be linked to a planet in its alignment and corresponds to a particular chakra. It is a sacred combination recommended in Vedic astrology to promote financial prosperity, professional growth and good health.

In short, if you love traditional India and follow astrological influences, chakras, etc., these jewels are just for you, if you can afford it. By the way: in addition to precious stones, almost always with antique cuts like polki diamonds (used during the Mughal empire), Umrao’s jewels are in pure 24 carat gold, an other traditional choice.

Umrao Jewels was founded Shri Umrao Mal Shah, and now that in Jaipur no geverna plus the maharaja, children and grandchildren continue his work. In addition to the traditional Indian style, the Maison loves to create art pieces in Edwardian, Byzantine, Maghul, art dé and art nouveau styles, often with a fusion of fascinating styles.

Girocollo con rari smeraldi russi color pastello, oro, diamanti
Choker with rare pastel-colored Russian emeralds, gold, diamonds 
Orecchini in oro 24 carati, rubini, diamanti
24 carat gold earrings, rubies, diamonds
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Collana tradizionale in oro 24 carati, con diamanti a taglio piatto
Traditional necklace in 24k gold, with flat cut diamonds
Tradizionale collana Sath Lada nello stile del Deccan popolare durante il periodo del Nizam Of Hyderabad. Tradizionalmente composta da sette file di perle graduate per dimensioni, infilate su in oro, diamanti non tagliati e pietre preziose
Traditional Sath Lada necklace in the Deccan style popular during the time of the Nizam Of Hyderabad. Traditionally composed of seven rows of pearls graduated in size, strung on gold, uncut diamonds and precious stones

Jewelery Festival in GemGèneve

GemGenève is also an opportunity for jewelery culture. The second edition (2-5 November) of the Geneva event dedicated to vintage or designer gems and jewellery, now in its seventh edition, coincides with a series of exhibitions, shows and tutorials on the topic. Starting with the exhibition entitled The Pearl Odyssey, with over 40 jewels and exceptional pieces. Maison Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, the Alfardan Collection, a private collector and exhibiting partners, such as Faerber-Collection, Heritage Gems, Horovitz & Totah, Joseph Gad, Nicolas Torroni, Ocean Flame, Swiss Pearls and Ssef have decided to exhibit some of the their most beautiful pieces.

In addition to this great exhibition, there are many cultural meetings. A space dedicated to craftsmanship, created in collaboration with Asmebi (Swiss association of jewelery artisans) and the partner schools of Csp Arts Geneva and the Ecole Technique de la Vallée de Joux will host presentations and demonstrations with an enameller, a chain maker , a sheath maker, an inlayer, a lacemaker, a lapidary, a glass artist or even a specialist in 3D metal printing. The consultancy firm Donna Jewel has dedicated its new creative project, created in collaboration with GemGenève for the November 2023 edition, to the theme of movement. Students are invited to create a kinetic piece of jewelry, a moving piece that expresses the change they want to see and embody in the world.

Spazio dedicato all’artigianato, realizzato in collaborazione con Asmebi
Space dedicated to craftsmanship, created in collaboration with Asmebi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

GemGèneve also includes three workshops. The first is dedicated to 3D Modeling. The second to creative free-form modeling and the third to 3D modeling for jewelry. Practical workshops are the one run by Sabine Gyger on stringing pearls without glue and that of Vaudaux, a Swiss company specialized in the design and production of cases, accessories and leather goods.

In meeting with the theme of jewelry is that of Gislain Aucremanne, curator of the Bulgari heritage, with focus on the snake in jewelry. Gabrielle de Montmorin will interview Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of Chaumet, a brand that in fact has one of the largest collection assets in the world, with 66,000 designs, the oldest of which date back to the beginning of the 19th century, 716 nickel silvers, including 515 tiaras, 60,000 negatives, including 33,000 glass plates and 300,000 photographic prints, but also 117 visit books, 434 invoice books and inventories of Paris, London and New York, to which are added the books on stones, pearls and laboratories without forgetting the 20,000 letters of correspondence from the main executives of the Maison.

Talk show in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Talk show in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Another scheduled meeting concerns the purchase of an ancient jewel, proposed by the Gemmologie & Francophonie Association, with Chloé Picard & Martial Bonnet, for the Gemmologie & Francophonie Association. Then on the program are the conversation on the theme My favorite jewel of the 40s from GemGenève and the meeting on the theme of Feathers and jewels, the enchantment of colour, with Jacques Cuisin, Nelly Saunier, Stéphanie Sivrière, Jean Bernard Forot. Connected to the exhibition is the conversation Pearls of Truth, by Laurent Cartier, pearl expert from the Ssef laboratory, Violaine Bigot, head of the Chaumet heritage and Kathia Pinckernelle, historical pearl jewel.
Visitors a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitors in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The extensive GemGèneve program also includes other meetings, such as a round table on young people and the goldsmith’s art, followed by the award ceremony of the Donna Jewel x GemGenève project, in collaboration with the Galdus School. How artificial intelligence is revolutionizing gemstone analysis. Between limits and opportunities is the theme of another round table with Andrea Machalova, Laurent Cartier, Daniel Nyfeler, Laura Tocmacov. More pearls, but in the context of new creative scenarios in the meeting with Donatella Zappieri, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Milena Lazazzera and Laurent Cartier. The future of jewelry marketing on social media will instead examine the impact of these media. David Brough, Laura Inghirami, Renu Choudhary, Bebe Bakhshi, Katerina Perez will talk about it.

Finally, jewelery and publishing with a series of meetings on the theme of books dedicated to the Chaumet spirit, mineralogy, the Chinese brand Yewn, and Lydia Courteille. And there is even a quiz game about the world of precious stones, Gemmo Pursuit.

GemGèneve, Jewels. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve, Jewels. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Ukrainian jewels return to GemGèneve

With GemGèneve (Palaexpo di Ginervra, 2-5 November 2023) the jewels of Ukraine also return. Proposing them again is the Strong & Precious Art Foundation, which will participate in the jewelry fair: it is the fourth time that it will be present at the event dedicated to gems and jewelry, with Ukrainian jewelry brands and designers. This year the Foundation presents six Ukrainian brands and designers, including Nomis, Drutis Jewellery, Yuval’ Studios, Inesa Kovalova, Zhernov Artifactory along with newcomers GeO and Yastreb Jewelry.

Gioielli di Nomis
Nomis Jewellery

This is the fourth time we have participated in GemGenève. Over the past two years we have featured over ten Ukrainian jewelry brands and designers, and this year we will introduce more newcomers. GemGenève has become a starting point for international recognition for many Ukrainian jewelers, and we are happy to help our talented designers shine in the global arena. For us, this event is an opportunity to introduce Ukrainian goldsmith art to a demanding audience, true connoisseurs and jewelry experts from all over the world, and we will spare no effort to make this discovery particularly exciting and memorable.
Olga Oleksenko, CEO Strong & Precious Art Foundation

Orecchini Zhernov Artifactory
Zhernov Artifactory earrings

Nomis presents multifunctional and unisex jewellery: the rings can be worn as ear cuffs, the stud earrings as pendants and the bracelets as chokers. Drutis returns with the kaleidoscopic pendants. Yuval’ Studios presents the Motherland collection, fusing symbolic designs that echo Ukraine’s abundant wheat fields with revisited traditional ceramics, featuring milk jugs and sheep. Inesa Kovalova introduces Suspension: earrings with diamonds, gold and titanium that embody movement and light. GeO with thousand-year-old precious stones and designs that amplify its intrinsic beauty. Finally, Yastreb Jewelry creates pieces that invite owners to boldly declare their identity and seek beauty and joy with a minimalist aesthetic, while Zhernov Artifactory is a niche jewelry brand founded by Ukrainian artist and designer Sergey Zhernov and by his wife Lilia in 2014.

Orecchini di Inesa Kovalova
Earrings by Inesa Kovalova
Collana di Yuva Studios
Necklace by Yuva Studios
Anelli di Yastreb Jewelry
Rings by Yastreb Jewelry
Il ciondolo-caleidoscopio di Drutis Jewellery. Copyright: gioiellis.com
The kaleidoscope pendant by Drutis Jewellery. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Designers and talents of GemGèneve

Since it was born, seven editions ago, GemGenève has hosted two areas reserved for Emerging Talents and New Designers selected by Nadège Totah, inside the Village des Designers, alongside the exhibitors. The new appointment (2-5 November) of the event dedicated to vintage jewelery and exceptional gems also brings together design protagonists. Among the Emerging Talents, Capucine H makes her debut, she is a French jeweler and designer, who intends to raise public awareness of the fragility of our planet through her creations. She works closely with scientists, often going to the most hidden places to understand the challenges the world is facing and then translating them into her jewels. Celeste Wu, of Chinese origin, began creating jewelry in 2009, in Paris. His creations are a fusion of abstract and geometric shapes, poetic and harmonious compositions, maintaining a subtle balance between simplicity and complexity. He embarked on a nine-month creative journey to create the exceptional high jewelery work Moon Fairy & Rose, which will be presented as a world premiere at GemGenève.

Capucine H, annello Icy Queen, in oro riciclato 18 carati, perla, spinello grigio e 34 diamanti riciclati
Capucine H, Icy Queen ring in 18k recycled gold, pearl, gray spinel and 34 recycled diamonds

Alice Villa is the owner and creative force of Villa Milano, a jewelry store famous for its large production of cufflinks. Founded in 1876, Villa Milano is now committed to broadening its offering with new jewels. Also among the Emerging Talents, Shavarsh Hakobian is a jewelry designer from Yerevan, Armenia who uses unconventional materials such as wood, leather, fabrics, tusks, butterfly wings, which the artist combines with precious metals and precious stones. Youra Jewelry is a high jewelry brand based in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, whose name is inspired by the Arabic expression «to be seen» founded by Rabaa Saleh Alangari, who began his journey thanks to his great passion for diamonds, painting, colors and creativity.
Orecchini in alluminio, oro bianco, diamanti
Earrings in aluminium, white gold, diamonds by Villa Milano

Among the four New Designers of GenGèneve there is room for José María Goñi, a French-Chilean high jewelery designer. Versatile and extremely creative in the creation of his works, he has acquired the necessary knowledge to create decidedly complex works. Also in the New Designers section is Elke Berr, born in Geneva, who travels to the places where gems are mined and launched her line of high jewelery pieces and bespoke creations Rock’n Roses in 2003, aimed at a clientele of niche. Diva Jewels by Rishi Mukesh Mehta, based in Mumbai, India, stands out for being one of the few maisons capable of following both the design and sale of custom-made jewelery within the same company. It is a return, however, that of Serendipity Jewelry, already present at the November 2022 and last spring editions. Christine Chan offers an extraordinary collection of pieces that combine the concept of respect for nature, freedom and oneself, so that each jewel has its own character, and its own temperature and depth.

Sean Gilson, amazing design





The innovative jewels, without excesses, by the American designer Sean Gilson ♦ ︎

Designer? Artist? Artisan? What is the right definition to define Sean Gilson? Meeting him is not easy: he is usually in his laboratory in a small town in Connecticut, USA. Although every so often he goes to New York for some workshops or for extraordinary events, as it was for GemGèneve, where Sean Gilson was present in the Designer Vivarium area.

Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The difficulty of meeting this eclectic jewelry artist is also due to his way of working: he personally creates the finish of the jewel. Pieces that are often surprising. As for the earrings presented at the Swiss event, made with a particularly delicate stone, together with white gold and blue sapphires: a piece of virtuoso jewelry. To achieve the desired effect the American designer also uses different techniques and combines traditional tools with more modern ones. The result is innovative, modern jewels that do not lose their wearability. “A jewel should never scream if there is the integrity of design, materials and craftsmanship,” says Gilson.

Orecchini presentati da Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings presented by Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com
White jadeite moonstone and diamond in blackened sterling earrings
White jade, diamonds and burnished silver earrings
Orecchini in corallo, pietra luna, calcedonio
Earrings in coral, moonstone, chalcedony
Bracciale della collezione Parabolic in oro 18 carati
Bracelet from the Parabolic collection in 18k gold
Bracciale in oro giallo con perle
Yellow gold bracelet with pearls
Anello con perle naturali, acciaio, oro
Ring with natural pearls, steel, gold
Earclips di Sean Gilson
Earclips by Sean Gilson
Anello con acquamarina naturale e bachelite
Ring with natural aquamarine and bakelite
Anello con perle del Mare del Sud su oro bianco
Ring with South Sea pearls on white gold
Orecchini Infinity in oro lucido 18 carati
Infinity earrings in 18k polished gold

Pearl Odyssey in GemGèneve

Paraphrasing an old (beautiful) film by Stanley Kubrick, the new edition of GemGèneve (2-5 November) can be characterized as 2023, A Pearl Odyssey. Because a special focus is dedicated to this fruit of the sea, including precious vintage jewels, gems and design pieces. The Pearl Odyssey exhibition brings together over 30 jewels and extraordinary pieces: the Chaumet maison, the Flee Project collective, a private collection and several partner exhibitors took part in this project.

Devant de corsage by Vever, 1900. Faerber Collection
Devant de corsage by Vever, 1900. Faerber Collection

Natural pearls are wonderful. With their extraordinary beauty, these rare gems have fascinated the world for thousands of years. They take decades to form, and for this reason they are a priceless natural treasure. We have decided to pay homage to them with this discovery-exhibition, in November 2023, to reveal this hidden beauty to visitors. The perfection of natural pearls lies in their very imperfection. Each pearl is unique in size, shape, color and luster. It can be round, oval, baroque or even teardrop-shaped. The color varies from pure white to deep black, passing through a wide range of shades: pink, champagne, or even iridescent blue-green, reminiscent of the wings of a dragonfly.
Ronny Totah, Co-founder of GemGenève

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

The space was designed by Flee Project. The exhibition allows a dive into the atmosphere of the pearl divers of the Persian Gulf and other places, presents jewels of imperial origin, or embellished with an extraordinary pearl, but also the creativity of the greatest jewelers. The exhibition itinerary ends with a scientific note and, with the support of the Swiss Institute of Gemology (SSEF), which presents the history of the study of pearls since the last century, with the theme of the differentiation between fine pearls and cultured pearls. From Joseph Chaumet’s first experiments to the cutting-edge techniques developed by the partner laboratory, this last space offers a complete overview of the different evaluation methods that allow us to determine the quality and origin of all the pearls in the world.
Due bracciali-orologio in oro, perle, smeraldi. @Nils Herrmann
Two watch bracelets in gold, pearls, emeralds. @Nils Herrmann

For several years the pearl has returned to the protagonist scene in the world of jewellery. Considered obsolete or too classic for a long time, today it is a source of inspiration for a new generation of jewelers.
Bracciale con perle e diamanti di Cartier, 1962. Faerber collection
Pearl and diamond bracelet by Cartier, 1962. Faerber collection

GemGenève returns with 148 exhibitors

There will be 148 exhibitors from 18 countries expected at the seventh edition of GemGenève in pavilion 6 of the Geneva Palexpo 2-5 November 2023. A little less than the May edition, when they reached 230, but still a group of all respect. If schools, designers, laboratories and other cultural partners are also added, the exhibitors rise to 175 exhibitors. Number which is practically the same as the November 2022 edition: therefore everything is regular. Organizers Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah also announce key features of previous editions of GemGenève will now become annual events, such as the Designer Vivarium, set to become a permanent fixture in upcoming spring editions.

Visitors a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitors in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The same goes for some collaborations with schools, including the partnership with Head and the Gran Teatro di Ginevra, scheduled for May 2024. The Donna Jewel project with the students of the Galdus School and Crea Eyes with Donatella Zappieri will instead become autumn events.
GemGenève maggio 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGenève May 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For the second time GemGenève returns to Hall 6, which boasts a very attractive exhibition space: 14,000 m2 in total. Although this is the same venue as in November 2022, the next edition of GemGenève will have a different main entrance and slightly different booth layout. This edition is designed to be more intimate but equally rich in content as the May 2023 edition, with new surprises in store as well. We are happy and proud to be able to give each edition a unique and personalized look that has a strong impact on our visitors and exhibitors. The team’s ability to do this is one of our winning assets.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

This time, the layout conceived by the Parisian design studio Autre Idée will be based on small coffee station-type spaces and will include main corridors, exhibition areas and lounges, with new furniture for an intimate atmosphere, with a touch of Japanese style.
GemGèneve 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Most of the exhibitors come from the United States, Switzerland, Hong Kong and Israel. US exhibitors still clearly lead the pack, accounting for nearly a quarter (21%) of attendees. Followed by those from Switzerland, Hong Kong, Israel, Belgium, Thailand, Germany, France, India and Italy, followed by companies from Sri Lanka, Japan, Brazil and Austria: 33 of the 148 professional exhibitors will participate in GemGenève for the seventh time, while 14 for the first time.
GemGenève 2023, Palaexpo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGenève 2023, Palaexpo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

What’s new at GemGeneve autumn

GemGeneve is back, one of the most eagerly awaited events by jewelery enthusiasts and professionals. The second edition of 2023 (the first took place in mid-May) will be held from Thursday 2 November to Sunday 5 November. It is edition number seven. Born as an experiment on the ashes of Baselworld, GemGèneve has conquered its space, focusing on a very professional target, even if the visit is open to the public (ticket 50 francs). The new edition developed by director Mathieu Dekeukelaire returns to Pavilion 6 of the Palexpo (also home to the November 2022 edition) on 14,000 square meters of exhibition space. But it will have a different main entrance and a new stand layout. The date is not accidental: it coincides with the main autumn auctions of magnificent jewels held in Geneva.

Orecchini con lapislazzuli, diamanti, perla. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings with lapis lazuli, diamonds, pearl by Serendipity Jewelry. Copyright: gioiellis.com

At present, 145 retailers and a total of 156 exhibitors are expected. But the organizers expect that it will eventually lead to a higher number of exhibitors than in November 2022 (there were 176, including 144 resellers), albeit less than at the May event (230 exhibitors and 192 resellers). The Designer Vivarium will become a regular event in the spring editions in the future and so will some of the collaborations with schools, including the partnership with Head and the Grand Theater in Geneva, due in May 2024. The fair label created by exhibitors (i.e. Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber) for exhibitors and the general public always aims to combine vintage and new jewels with exceptional gems.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Jewelry in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

We attach as much importance to gemstones and jewelery creation and design as promoting true solidarity, uniting the international community of gemstone and antique jewelery dealers, designers and all jewelery enthusiasts.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga
Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga

Among the novelties, a new layout is also announced: it will be based on small spaces such as coffee stations and will include main corridors, exhibition spaces and lounges. The Parisian design studio Autre Idée has also created a new setting designed to have an intimate atmosphere, with a touch of Japanese style. The Emerging Talents and New Designers areas managed by Nadège Totah, dedicated to young talents, are back. In this area, the French jeweler and designer Capucine H and the French-Chilean designer José Maria Goñi will make their debut, while Marija Iva Jewelry and Serendipity Jewelry return. At GemGèneve there is also space for Elke Berr, gemologist, designer and educator, who launched her line of high-end jewelery and custom-made pieces in 2003 after more than 30 years of experience in the sector.

Capucine H, anello in oro 18 carati, zirconi, granati, diamanti cognac
Capucine H, 18k recycled gold zircons garnets, citrines, and ethically-mined cognac diamonds

GemGeneve breaks the record and returns in November

Story of the duckling that turned into a swan: GemGenève, a fair dedicated to gems, vintage and design jewels, was born in 2018 as a bet by two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, it has turned into an event that repeat every six months. Closed the May session, the next edition has already been announced for November 2-5. A result that was hard to believe given that the starting idea was that of a small specialized fair, an alternative to the expensive Baselworld. Instead, the Goliath-Baselworld was knocked out by the slingshot of companies intolerant of that grandeur.

GemGèneve 2023
GemGèneve 2023

The GemGèneve balance for May 2023 indicates 4,320 visitors and 192 professional resellers out of a total of 230 exhibitors. The statistics also indicate that 1,400 of the 4,320 visitors went to GemGèneve more than once, bringing the total number of visits to 6,487, more than a thousand more than in the November 2022 edition (5,205). These figures, the organizers explain, are an excellent sign, especially in light of the continuing impact of the crisis in Ukraine.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

We are proud that with this most recent edition, GemGenève has become an established part of the cultural fabric of Geneva and the international scene.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

Alongside the consolidated companies, the protagonists of the Designer Vivarium, Emerging Talent & New Designers, selected by Vivienne Becker and Nadège Totah, the schools, the Villa of Lost Arts, the exhibition of the Museum of Art and History (MAH) of Geneva dedicated to automatons and music, the LetuBooks bookshop and the Gem Collectors bookshops, laboratories and other trade fair partners. But the new location, in pavilion 1 of the Palaexpo, and a more refined organization of spaces have also contributed to the evolution of GemGèneve. Alongside this, an efficient organization. In one word: Switzerland. A warranty.
Business in GemGèneve
Business in GemGèneve

GemGeneve reopens its doors with 190 exhibitors

The doors of the sixth edition of GemGèneve are opening, the event dedicated to vintage and design jewels, to new talents, to surprising gems, but also to meetings and exhibitions. Born almost as a bet from the ashes of Baselworld on the initiative of two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah Thomas Faerber, GemGèneve managed to establish itself and even overcome the pandemic period unscathed. Indeed, in recent years it has even doubled with an autumn edition. This year (11-14 May), among other things, it moves to Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space. The Parisian design agency Autre Idée, which has been collaborating with the organizers since 2021, has opted for an installation based on the theme of plants and organic life for the spring edition.

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

There are about 190 exhibitors from 20 countries. About a quarter come from the United States, followed by Switzerland, Hong Kong and Germany, but also Israel, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, followed by companies from the United Kingdom, Italy, the United United Arab, Sri Lanka and Singapore, and last but not least Russia, Poland, Austria, Japan, Spain and China.
GemGèneve edizione 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As we welcome more dealers to GemGenève for this edition, we’ve also given careful thought to exhibition traffic. The challenge is to preserve the balance between our DNA – passing on our passion to emerging designers and schools, a diverse cultural programme, and the desire to remain a human-sized event – and the quality of exhibitors and merchandise on display, whilst making sure the visitor experience is as streamlined as possible.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

Of the exhibitors, 48 are taking part in GemGeneve for the sixth time, while another 20 are making their debut. Newcomers include names such as Berçot (France), Tom Munsteiner, Heinz Meyer, Emil Weiss Opals (Germany) and JS Fearnley (USA). Sim Gems (Hong Kong), Hari Krishna Exports (India), Futurgem (Italy), Ultraco (Switzerland), Topaze Impériale (Austria), KGK Gems Limited (Thailand). Other innovations concern the emerging talents and new designers area, curated by Nadège Totah. In this area, the fine jewelry of the Belgian designer Fred Fa will debut, refined and a bit mysterious, who makes all his sketches, technical drawings and gouache jewelry designs by hand. In the same area there will be Serendipity Jewelry, the fruit of one of the emerging talents of the November 2022 edition, but this time in the New Designers category, as well as the talented Austy Lee Art Jewelery from Hong Kong: she creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces . The Designer Vivarium will always be curated by the jewelry history Vivienne Becker.
Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Five new designers of the GemGeneve Vivarium

Young people, still not very well known, with a marked creative sense: this is the identikit of the designers present in the Vivarium area of GemGèneve, a space that is being renewed for the edition of the event scheduled at the Palaexpo in Geneva (11-14 May). Also this Vivarium edition has been entrusted to Vivienne Becker, one of the best experts in the world of jewellery, who has identified five emerging designers, four of which are making their debut. The jewels proposed by the participants were very different from each other, which we will discuss in more detail in other articles.

Collana Quando la mezzanotte sboccia, di Natasha Wightman
Collana Quando la mezzanotte sboccia, di Natasha Wightman

Natasha Wightman presents her first NVW collection at the Designer Vivarium at GemGenève. She is a British artist-jeweler, she uses jewels to tell the stories that most fascinate her: stories of the unexpected, British fauna (in particular the crow), nature, folklore. Leen Heyne is another participant in the Vivarium: he is a Dutch goldsmith and jeweler who offers conceptual jewels. Graduated from the Academy of Goldsmith Arts in Schoonhaven, Leen creates the jewels in his atelier in Tilburg, north of Eindhoven, in the province of Brabant. At GemGenève, Leen is presenting a series of new creations, centered around her experimental work with steel and exhibited for the first time. Designer-jeweler Lia Lam launched her brand just over a year ago, with four collections: Beam, Lagom, Unity and Passepartout, each based on a concept, a story, an emotional experience, synthesized in a pure form and powerful. The style is graphic and architectural, influenced by the Bauhaus movement, brutalism and modernism.
Anello in oro e diamanti di Leen Heyne
Anello in oro e diamanti di Leen Heyne

The fourth designer of the Vivarium is Oushaba, a brand launched earlier this year by three art-loving and collector friends, including Gillian Carr, general manager. The designers describe their brand as a house of sustainable art and design that breathes new life into long-abandoned materials, and their jewelry as wearable art that showcases the skills and techniques of master craftsmanship. Their principle of sustainability and circularity is encapsulated in their first innovative collection, Connection Salvaged. On the other hand, the Russian designer Elena Okutova returns to GemGèneve, who founded her own brand together with her mother Irina, in 2009. The jewels are often inspired by the Russian traditions of art and craftsmanship and in the use of enamels and colored gems, but also in tales and in Russian fairy tales. In this way he is inspired by the Russian tradition of oral storytelling, often related to the forces of nature and handed down from generation to generation.
Anello 100%% di Lia Lam
Anello 100%% di Lia Lam

Oushaba, bracciale Vestige in oro giallo 22 carati con cavo elettrico
Oushaba, bracciale Vestige in oro giallo 22 carati con cavo elettrico

Anello Peonia di Elena Okutova
Anello Peonia di Elena Okutova

Also clocks and automatons at GemGeneve

Geneva, the capital of watchmaking and one of the major centers of fine jewelry. Two aspects that the next edition of GemGèneve (Palaexpo, 11-14 May 2023) has decided to enhance. The event dedicated to vintage jewellery, design and gems returns to combine an exhibition inside the exhibition pavilion. For the new edition, GemGenève and the Geneva Art and History Museum (Mah), one of the largest in Switzerland, are organizing an exhibition centered on the mechanisms of automatons, art objects and music, with pieces from its collections. The Mah has been active since the 18th century. And, for the occasion, it brings 25 small and medium-sized works, as well as works created at the end of the 19th century, supplied by the International Watchmaking Museum of La Chaux-de-Fonds, by François Junod, Swiss sculptor and automaton maker, and by the exhibitors of GemGenève.

Orologio da tasca a ripetizione dei quarti, musica e automa Capt & Janin Ginevra, Mende, ca. 1810 Oro lucidato e inciso, smaltato Il braccio destro dell’automa sfiora la lira per tutta la durata della melodia (meccanismo a lame dritte). Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia
Orologio da tasca a ripetizione dei quarti, musica e automa Capt & Janin. Ginevra, Mende, ca. 1810. Oro lucidato e inciso, smaltato. Il braccio destro dell’automa sfiora la lira per tutta la durata della melodia (meccanismo a lame dritte). Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Watchmaking has been practiced in Geneva since the 16th century, associated with the development of vast commercial networks and linking converging technological innovations. The variety of objects kept in this section highlights the mechanisms of watches and the inventions derived from art mechanics with gears, music boxes and automatons: the latter are particularly complex, as they combine technical and historical aspects, up to philosophy and even to magic. Sounds produced by technique and simulated gestures performed mechanically have been surprising marriages between craftsmanship and technique of the past.
Scatolina con scomparti, con automa e orologio. Ginevra, ca. 1800. Oro rosa, oro colorato, smaltatura champlevé e miniature smaltate. Automa arrotino in oro colorato e smalto 7,7 cm di lunghezza, 3,18 cm di larghezza, 1 cm di spessore. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia
Scatolina con scomparti, con automa e orologio. Ginevra, ca. 1800. Oro rosa, oro colorato, smaltatura champlevé e miniature smaltate. Automa arrotino in oro colorato e smalto 7,7 cm di lunghezza, 3,18 cm di larghezza, 1 cm di spessore. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

These clocks, most of which include a musical mechanism, reached their peak of popularity around 1840. The same passion can be found in the mantel clocks, which transform into real shows, with music boxes and singing birds: the creations are inspired by everyday life, rural scenes or the circus world. Music often accompanies the shows: simple music boxes, which can play one or more melodies, are commissioned from specialized craftsmen and integrated into watch cases.
The principle of the carillon was invented in 1796 by the Genevan watchmaker Antoine Favre. He had the idea of replacing the complex mechanism of bell stamps and hammers, used for clocks and snuffboxes, with steel blades that vibrate when struck by pins arranged on a cylinder.
Benoît; Japy Frères Ginevra, Beaucourt (Francia), ca. 1852. Bronzo dorato, automi in legno dipinto, quadrante smaltato, base in legno dipinto, cupola in vetro. Suoneria che scandisce il tempo ogni ora e ogni mezz’ora; meccanismo musicale che suona due melodie, ricaricabile tirando un cordino 83 cm di altezza (vetro compreso), 49 cm di larghezza, 28 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia
Benoît; Japy Frères Ginevra, Beaucourt (Francia), ca. 1852. Bronzo dorato, automi in legno dipinto, quadrante smaltato, base in legno dipinto, cupola in vetro. Suoneria che scandisce il tempo ogni ora e ogni mezz’ora; meccanismo musicale che suona due melodie, ricaricabile tirando un cordino 83 cm di altezza (vetro compreso), 49 cm di larghezza, 28 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Pendola con automi e musica (di una coppia). Guangzhou (Cina), Londra, ca.1800. Ormolu, smalto, argento, avorio, pittura su vetro, vetreria policroma, metallo dipinto. Suoneria allo scatto dell’ora, automi e carillon (nella base) attivabili quando si desidera, 90 cm di altezza, 38 cm di larghezza, 33 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia
Pendola con automi e musica (di una coppia). Guangzhou (Cina), Londra, ca.1800. Ormolu, smalto, argento, avorio, pittura su vetro, vetreria policroma, metallo dipinto. Suoneria allo scatto dell’ora, automi e carillon (nella base) attivabili quando si desidera, 90 cm di altezza, 38 cm di larghezza, 33 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Emerging talent designers at GemGeneve

Ten emerging designers and talents and four new designers will represent the new jewelery at the next edition of GemGèneve (Palaexpo, 11-14 May 2023), selected on the initiative of Nadège Totah. The space dedicated to contemporary, emerging or still little-known creators is a feature of the event organized by Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber. GemGèneve has established itself above all for the presence of companies specialized in the trade of large gems, vintage jewels, but also creators of contemporary jewellery.

Espositore a GemGèneve
Espositore a GemGèneve

The six emerging talents include Fred Fa from Belgium, who handcrafts each design, technical drawing and gouache. Aso Leon, China, is an award-winning jewelry artist who has been in jewelry for 27 years. In 2005 he introduced titanium into his fine jewelry creations, becoming known as the Prince of Titanium. Denise Cassou Couture Jewelry comes from Brazil: a passionate traveler, photographer, director and designer, she designed and created jewelry for herself, her daughters and her friends before offering her creativity to the rest of the world.
Fred Fa, anello Fruit de la Vigne, con zaffiri, tanzaniti, tsavoriti, rubelliti e diamanti
Fred Fa, anello Fruit de la Vigne, con zaffiri, tanzaniti, tsavoriti, rubelliti e diamanti

Teresa Escudero, Spain, graduated in History at the University of Santiago de Compostela before becoming a jewelry designer. Her brand is called Rites of Passage Art Jewelery and uses materials such as metal meteorites from 3.5 billion years ago, belonging to the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, together with precious and rare stones, rough stones and organic materials such as wood. Iwona Tamborska, Poland, already present in May last year, returns among the emerging talents: she uses unusual materials such as meteorite fragments, plants and insects, but also puzzle tiles with hidden moving parts and hidden messages.
Teresa Escuder, orecchini in oro giallo con uno smeraldo colombiano grezzo, acquamarina del Madagascar grezza e 9 grammi di meteorite Sikhote Alin
Teresa Escuder, orecchini in oro giallo con uno smeraldo colombiano grezzo, acquamarina del Madagascar grezza e 9 grammi di meteorite Sikhote Alin

Wallis Hong, Madrid, Spain, also present in the last edition, is a self-taught artist, who studied sculpture and painting at the Madrid Academy of Art. He creates very refined and creative sculpture-jewelry. His iconic Thorn shell earrings have become part of the permanent collection of the Shenzhen Jewel Museum in China.
Austy Lee Art Jewellery, Hong Kong, is a former graphic designer who creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces inspired by themes that blend pop-punk, avant-garde, religion, antiquities and fashion.
Wallis Hong. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Wallis Hong. Copyright: gioiellis.com

A.win Siu, China, uses bold colors and combinations of metals and minerals. Created in November 2017, the A.win Siu brand has a personal style. Serendipity Jewelry, France, is one of the emerging talents already present in the November 2022 edition. The brand was founded in Paris in 2017 by Christine Chan, who discovered her passion for stones over ten years ago, on the occasion of a trip to Australia: presents a collection of jewels in which respect for nature, for freedom and for oneself merge. Tenzo, Estonia, is also back, a small established and internationally known jewelery maison, with refined settings in engraved and satin-finish gold, carved precious stones and unprecedented combinations.

A. Win Siu, Something Sweet
A. Win Siu, Something Sweet
Austy Lee, spilla Farfalla imperiale a coda di Spada
Austy Lee, spilla Farfalla imperiale a coda di Spada
Denise Cassou, orecchini in oro 18k con onice, opale e diamanti
Denise Cassou, orecchini in oro 18k con onice, opale e diamanti
Aso Leon, spilla in titanio
Aso Leon, spilla in titanio

Exhibitors at GemGeneve rise to 210




GemGenève warms up the engines in view of the sixth edition (11-14 May, Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo in Geneva). The event will host 187 jewelery and gemstone brands from 20 countries, but counting the presence of universities, designers, laboratories and other cultural partners such as museums, the total number of exhibitors is expected to exceed 210. Most of the exhibitors come from United States, Switzerland, Hong Kong and Germany, followed by Switzerland, Hong Kong, Germany, Israel, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, followed by companies from the United Kingdom, Italy, United Arab Emirates, Sri Lanka and Singapore, and last but not least Russia, Poland, Austria, Japan, Spain and China.

Provenienza degli espositori a GemGèneve
Provenienza degli espositori a GemGèneve

GemGenève will occupy pavilion 1 of the Palexpo, with a total exhibition space of over 13,000 m2. The exhibitors will be arranged in four coffee station areas, two main aisles and a lounge that will host exhibition spaces, projects and musical and literary events after work. In fact, this year music will be an integral part of the event, thanks to a concept devised by our director Mathieu Dekeukelaire.
Ronny Totah, co-founder of GemGeneve

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot
Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell’evento. Foto: G.Maillot

Statistics indicate that there is a core of 48 exhibitors who will be taking part in GemGenève for the sixth time, while it will be the first time for more than 20 others. Newcomers include names such as Berçot (France), Tom Munsteiner, Heinz Mayer, Emil Weiss Opals (Germany) and JS Fearnley (USA), Sim Gems Limited (Honk Kong), Hari Krishna Exports (India), Futurgem (Italy), Ultraco (Switzerland), Topaze Impériale (Austria), KGK Gems (Thailand). To make life easier, a high-level concierge service led by Pierre-Paul Monnet will also be active this year.
Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For this completely redesigned spring edition, the setting will be firmly based on the theme of plants and organic life, welcoming visitors in new tones characteristic of nature including beige, white, green and blue.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of the GemGeneve

Thomas Faerber
Thomas Faerber







New spaces and new designers at the next GemGeneve

Spring is coming. And GemGèneve is preparing for the event: the sixth edition of the fair dedicated to gems, fine vintage jewelery and new design (May 11-14, over 170 exhibitors expected) presents some significant innovations. The first concerns a new location within the Palexpo in Geneva: after pavilions 7 and 6 of the previous five editions, this time GemGèneve will move to Pavilion 1, on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space. The organizers have also decided to redesign the exhibition space, the visitor routes and the main entrance to make the most of the available space and offer exhibitors the best visibility: they will be arranged around four coffee station areas, two main aisles and a lounge which will host exhibition spaces, projects, musical and literary after-work events.

Espositore a GemGèneve
Espositore a GemGèneve

Furthermore, on the wave of growing green sensitivity, the Parisian design agency Autre Idée, which has been collaborating with the organizers since 2021, has opted for an installation based on the theme of plants and organic life for the spring edition. Other innovations concern the emerging talents and new designers area, curated by Nadège Totah. In this area, the fine jewelry of the Belgian designer Fred Fa will debut, refined and a little mysterious, who makes all his sketches, technical drawings and gouache jewelry designs by hand. In the same area there will be Serendipity Jewelry, the result of one of the emerging talents of the November 2022 edition, but this time in the New Designers category, as well as the talented Austy Lee Art Jewelery from Hong Kong: she creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces . The Designer Vivarium will always be curated by the jewelry history Vivienne Becker.
L'Envol du Papillon, bracciale in oro rosa, madreperla, diamanti, tsavoriti e rubellite di Fred Fa
L’Envol du Papillon, bracciale in oro rosa, madreperla, diamanti, tsavoriti e rubellite di Fred Fa

We attach as much importance to gemstones and jewelery creation and design as promoting true solidarity, uniting the international community of gemstone and antique jewelery dealers, designers and all jewelery enthusiasts.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga
Thomas Faerber. Photo: David Fraga

Furthermore, the next edition of GemGenène will not miss Ukrainian jewelers, an initiative launched by Olga Oleksenko in May 2022 in response to the war in Ukraine and supported by the co-founders of GemGenève. The project is called Strong and Precious-Ukrainian Jewelers, and brings together creations by Ukrainian designers, also as a gesture of support for the situation in the country.
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Among the collateral initiatives, it is worth mentioning an off-site exhibition at the event with exceptional automatons and other musical and artistic objects organized by the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva. Also off site, the Genevan jeweler Herbert Horovitz, who also manages the Gem Collectors Bookshop, opens the space of the Villa for an event dedicated to the lost arts: crafts that are becoming rare or endangered, such as semi-precious stone mosaicists, peelers and threaders of pearls, polishers, engravers, enamellers, stone setters, stonemasons, lapidarists, sheathers, small hardware gilders, electroformers and gold beaters. The Singapore Gem Museum returns to GemGenève with a fun and interactive learning space.
Bracciale Les beautés de mai, bracciali di Austy Lee
Bracciale Les beautés de mai, bracciali di Austy Lee

Finally, the collaboration with various art schools, jewelery and other educational institutions related to jewelery is back, with four prizes that will be awarded to the most creative young people: the Visitors’ Choice Prize for the Cfc project, the Asmebi prize for the Cfc project, the Visitors Choice award for the Head x Grand Théâtre de Genève x GemGenève project and the Eric Horovitz Foundation Award for the Cfc project.
Anello di Serendipity con Paraiba di 23,47 carati e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello di Serendipity con Paraiba di 23,47 carati e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gemme esposte a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gemme esposte a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gioielli a GemGèneve 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a GemGèneve 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com







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