GemGenève Archives | gioiellis.com

What’s new at GemGeneve autumn

Published on August 11, 2023

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José Maria Goñi Design, anello pantera con pavé di diamanti, occhi rubino. Copyright: gioiellis.com

GemGeneve is back, one of the most eagerly awaited events by jewelery enthusiasts and professionals. The second edition of 2023 (the first took place in mid-May) will be held from Thursday 2 November to Sunday 5 November. It is edition number seven. Born as an experiment on the ashes of Baselworld, GemGèneve has conquered its space, focusing on a very professional target, even if the visit is open to the public (ticket 50 francs). The new edition developed by director Mathieu Dekeukelaire returns to Pavilion 6 of the Palexpo (also home to the November 2022 edition) on 14,000 square meters of exhibition space. But it will have a different main entrance and a new stand layout. The date is not accidental: it coincides with the main autumn auctions of magnificent jewels held in Geneva.

Orecchini con lapislazzuli, diamanti, perla. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Earrings with lapis lazuli, diamonds, pearl by Serendipity Jewelry. Copyright: gioiellis.com

At present, 145 retailers and a total of 156 exhibitors are expected. But the organizers expect that it will eventually lead to a higher number of exhibitors than in November 2022 (there were 176, including 144 resellers), albeit less than at the May event (230 exhibitors and 192 resellers). The Designer Vivarium will become a regular event in the spring editions in the future and so will some of the collaborations with schools, including the partnership with Head and the Grand Theater in Geneva, due in May 2024. The fair label created by exhibitors (i.e. Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber) for exhibitors and the general public always aims to combine vintage and new jewels with exceptional gems.

Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Jewelry in GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

We attach as much importance to gemstones and jewelery creation and design as promoting true solidarity, uniting the international community of gemstone and antique jewelery dealers, designers and all jewelery enthusiasts.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Among the novelties, a new layout is also announced: it will be based on small spaces such as coffee stations and will include main corridors, exhibition spaces and lounges. The Parisian design studio Autre Idée has also created a new setting designed to have an intimate atmosphere, with a touch of Japanese style. The Emerging Talents and New Designers areas managed by Nadège Totah, dedicated to young talents, are back. In this area, the French jeweler and designer Capucine H and the French-Chilean designer José Maria Goñi will make their debut, while Marija Iva Jewelry and Serendipity Jewelry return. At GemGèneve there is also space for Elke Berr, gemologist, designer and educator, who launched her line of high-end jewelery and custom-made pieces in 2003 after more than 30 years of experience in the sector.

Capucine H, anello in oro 18 carati, zirconi, granati, diamanti cognac — Capucine H, 18k recycled gold zircons garnets, citrines, and ethically-mined cognac diamonds

GemGeneve breaks the record and returns in November

Published on May 18, 2023

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Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Story of the duckling that turned into a swan: GemGenève, a fair dedicated to gems, vintage and design jewels, was born in 2018 as a bet by two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, it has turned into an event that repeat every six months. Closed the May session, the next edition has already been announced for November 2-5. A result that was hard to believe given that the starting idea was that of a small specialized fair, an alternative to the expensive Baselworld. Instead, the Goliath-Baselworld was knocked out by the slingshot of companies intolerant of that grandeur.

The GemGèneve balance for May 2023 indicates 4,320 visitors and 192 professional resellers out of a total of 230 exhibitors. The statistics also indicate that 1,400 of the 4,320 visitors went to GemGèneve more than once, bringing the total number of visits to 6,487, more than a thousand more than in the November 2022 edition (5,205). These figures, the organizers explain, are an excellent sign, especially in light of the continuing impact of the crisis in Ukraine.

We are proud that with this most recent edition, GemGenève has become an established part of the cultural fabric of Geneva and the international scene.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot — Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

Alongside the consolidated companies, the protagonists of the Designer Vivarium, Emerging Talent & New Designers, selected by Vivienne Becker and Nadège Totah, the schools, the Villa of Lost Arts, the exhibition of the Museum of Art and History (MAH) of Geneva dedicated to automatons and music, the LetuBooks bookshop and the Gem Collectors bookshops, laboratories and other trade fair partners. But the new location, in pavilion 1 of the Palaexpo, and a more refined organization of spaces have also contributed to the evolution of GemGèneve. Alongside this, an efficient organization. In one word: Switzerland. A warranty.

GemGeneve reopens its doors with 190 exhibitors

Published on May 7, 2023

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Vetrina a GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The doors of the sixth edition of GemGèneve are opening, the event dedicated to vintage and design jewels, to new talents, to surprising gems, but also to meetings and exhibitions. Born almost as a bet from the ashes of Baselworld on the initiative of two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah Thomas Faerber, GemGèneve managed to establish itself and even overcome the pandemic period unscathed. Indeed, in recent years it has even doubled with an autumn edition. This year (11-14 May), among other things, it moves to Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space. The Parisian design agency Autre Idée, which has been collaborating with the organizers since 2021, has opted for an installation based on the theme of plants and organic life for the spring edition.

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

There are about 190 exhibitors from 20 countries. About a quarter come from the United States, followed by Switzerland, Hong Kong and Germany, but also Israel, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, followed by companies from the United Kingdom, Italy, the United United Arab, Sri Lanka and Singapore, and last but not least Russia, Poland, Austria, Japan, Spain and China.

GemGèneve edizione 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As we welcome more dealers to GemGenève for this edition, we’ve also given careful thought to exhibition traffic. The challenge is to preserve the balance between our DNA – passing on our passion to emerging designers and schools, a diverse cultural programme, and the desire to remain a human-sized event – and the quality of exhibitors and merchandise on display, whilst making sure the visitor experience is as streamlined as possible.
Ronny Totah

Of the exhibitors, 48 are taking part in GemGeneve for the sixth time, while another 20 are making their debut. Newcomers include names such as Berçot (France), Tom Munsteiner, Heinz Meyer, Emil Weiss Opals (Germany) and JS Fearnley (USA). Sim Gems (Hong Kong), Hari Krishna Exports (India), Futurgem (Italy), Ultraco (Switzerland), Topaze Impériale (Austria), KGK Gems Limited (Thailand). Other innovations concern the emerging talents and new designers area, curated by Nadège Totah. In this area, the fine jewelry of the Belgian designer Fred Fa will debut, refined and a bit mysterious, who makes all his sketches, technical drawings and gouache jewelry designs by hand. In the same area there will be Serendipity Jewelry, the fruit of one of the emerging talents of the November 2022 edition, but this time in the New Designers category, as well as the talented Austy Lee Art Jewelery from Hong Kong: she creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces . The Designer Vivarium will always be curated by the jewelry history Vivienne Becker.

Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Five new designers of the GemGeneve Vivarium

Published on April 27, 2023

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Young people, still not very well known, with a marked creative sense: this is the identikit of the designers present in the Vivarium area of GemGèneve, a space that is being renewed for the edition of the event scheduled at the Palaexpo in Geneva (11-14 May). Also this Vivarium edition has been entrusted to Vivienne Becker, one of the best experts in the world of jewellery, who has identified five emerging designers, four of which are making their debut. The jewels proposed by the participants were very different from each other, which we will discuss in more detail in other articles.

Collana Quando la mezzanotte sboccia, di Natasha Wightman

Natasha Wightman presents her first NVW collection at the Designer Vivarium at GemGenève. She is a British artist-jeweler, she uses jewels to tell the stories that most fascinate her: stories of the unexpected, British fauna (in particular the crow), nature, folklore. Leen Heyne is another participant in the Vivarium: he is a Dutch goldsmith and jeweler who offers conceptual jewels. Graduated from the Academy of Goldsmith Arts in Schoonhaven, Leen creates the jewels in his atelier in Tilburg, north of Eindhoven, in the province of Brabant. At GemGenève, Leen is presenting a series of new creations, centered around her experimental work with steel and exhibited for the first time. Designer-jeweler Lia Lam launched her brand just over a year ago, with four collections: Beam, Lagom, Unity and Passepartout, each based on a concept, a story, an emotional experience, synthesized in a pure form and powerful. The style is graphic and architectural, influenced by the Bauhaus movement, brutalism and modernism.

The fourth designer of the Vivarium is Oushaba, a brand launched earlier this year by three art-loving and collector friends, including Gillian Carr, general manager. The designers describe their brand as a house of sustainable art and design that breathes new life into long-abandoned materials, and their jewelry as wearable art that showcases the skills and techniques of master craftsmanship. Their principle of sustainability and circularity is encapsulated in their first innovative collection, Connection Salvaged. On the other hand, the Russian designer Elena Okutova returns to GemGèneve, who founded her own brand together with her mother Irina, in 2009. The jewels are often inspired by the Russian traditions of art and craftsmanship and in the use of enamels and colored gems, but also in tales and in Russian fairy tales. In this way he is inspired by the Russian tradition of oral storytelling, often related to the forces of nature and handed down from generation to generation.

Oushaba, bracciale Vestige in oro giallo 22 carati con cavo elettrico

Also clocks and automatons at GemGeneve

Published on April 19, 2023

Orologi

Geneva, the capital of watchmaking and one of the major centers of fine jewelry. Two aspects that the next edition of GemGèneve (Palaexpo, 11-14 May 2023) has decided to enhance. The event dedicated to vintage jewellery, design and gems returns to combine an exhibition inside the exhibition pavilion. For the new edition, GemGenève and the Geneva Art and History Museum (Mah), one of the largest in Switzerland, are organizing an exhibition centered on the mechanisms of automatons, art objects and music, with pieces from its collections. The Mah has been active since the 18th century. And, for the occasion, it brings 25 small and medium-sized works, as well as works created at the end of the 19th century, supplied by the International Watchmaking Museum of La Chaux-de-Fonds, by François Junod, Swiss sculptor and automaton maker, and by the exhibitors of GemGenève.

Orologio da tasca a ripetizione dei quarti, musica e automa Capt & Janin Ginevra, Mende, ca. 1810 Oro lucidato e inciso, smaltato Il braccio destro dell’automa sfiora la lira per tutta la durata della melodia (meccanismo a lame dritte). Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia — Orologio da tasca a ripetizione dei quarti, musica e automa Capt & Janin. Ginevra, Mende, ca. 1810. Oro lucidato e inciso, smaltato. Il braccio destro dell’automa sfiora la lira per tutta la durata della melodia (meccanismo a lame dritte). Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Watchmaking has been practiced in Geneva since the 16th century, associated with the development of vast commercial networks and linking converging technological innovations. The variety of objects kept in this section highlights the mechanisms of watches and the inventions derived from art mechanics with gears, music boxes and automatons: the latter are particularly complex, as they combine technical and historical aspects, up to philosophy and even to magic. Sounds produced by technique and simulated gestures performed mechanically have been surprising marriages between craftsmanship and technique of the past.

Scatolina con scomparti, con automa e orologio. Ginevra, ca. 1800. Oro rosa, oro colorato, smaltatura champlevé e miniature smaltate. Automa arrotino in oro colorato e smalto 7,7 cm di lunghezza, 3,18 cm di larghezza, 1 cm di spessore. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

These clocks, most of which include a musical mechanism, reached their peak of popularity around 1840. The same passion can be found in the mantel clocks, which transform into real shows, with music boxes and singing birds: the creations are inspired by everyday life, rural scenes or the circus world. Music often accompanies the shows: simple music boxes, which can play one or more melodies, are commissioned from specialized craftsmen and integrated into watch cases.
The principle of the carillon was invented in 1796 by the Genevan watchmaker Antoine Favre. He had the idea of replacing the complex mechanism of bell stamps and hammers, used for clocks and snuffboxes, with steel blades that vibrate when struck by pins arranged on a cylinder.

Benoît; Japy Frères Ginevra, Beaucourt (Francia), ca. 1852. Bronzo dorato, automi in legno dipinto, quadrante smaltato, base in legno dipinto, cupola in vetro. Suoneria che scandisce il tempo ogni ora e ogni mezz’ora; meccanismo musicale che suona due melodie, ricaricabile tirando un cordino 83 cm di altezza (vetro compreso), 49 cm di larghezza, 28 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Pendola con automi e musica (di una coppia). Guangzhou (Cina), Londra, ca.1800. Ormolu, smalto, argento, avorio, pittura su vetro, vetreria policroma, metallo dipinto. Suoneria allo scatto dell’ora, automi e carillon (nella base) attivabili quando si desidera, 90 cm di altezza, 38 cm di larghezza, 33 cm di profondità. Ginevra, Museo d’arte e storia

Emerging talent designers at GemGeneve

Published on April 10, 2023

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Wallis Hong, orecchini sirena in titanio e diamanti

Ten emerging designers and talents and four new designers will represent the new jewelery at the next edition of GemGèneve (Palaexpo, 11-14 May 2023), selected on the initiative of Nadège Totah. The space dedicated to contemporary, emerging or still little-known creators is a feature of the event organized by Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber. GemGèneve has established itself above all for the presence of companies specialized in the trade of large gems, vintage jewels, but also creators of contemporary jewellery.

The six emerging talents include Fred Fa from Belgium, who handcrafts each design, technical drawing and gouache. Aso Leon, China, is an award-winning jewelry artist who has been in jewelry for 27 years. In 2005 he introduced titanium into his fine jewelry creations, becoming known as the Prince of Titanium. Denise Cassou Couture Jewelry comes from Brazil: a passionate traveler, photographer, director and designer, she designed and created jewelry for herself, her daughters and her friends before offering her creativity to the rest of the world.

Fred Fa, anello Fruit de la Vigne, con zaffiri, tanzaniti, tsavoriti, rubelliti e diamanti

Teresa Escudero, Spain, graduated in History at the University of Santiago de Compostela before becoming a jewelry designer. Her brand is called Rites of Passage Art Jewelery and uses materials such as metal meteorites from 3.5 billion years ago, belonging to the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, together with precious and rare stones, rough stones and organic materials such as wood. Iwona Tamborska, Poland, already present in May last year, returns among the emerging talents: she uses unusual materials such as meteorite fragments, plants and insects, but also puzzle tiles with hidden moving parts and hidden messages.

Teresa Escuder, orecchini in oro giallo con uno smeraldo colombiano grezzo, acquamarina del Madagascar grezza e 9 grammi di meteorite Sikhote Alin

Wallis Hong, Madrid, Spain, also present in the last edition, is a self-taught artist, who studied sculpture and painting at the Madrid Academy of Art. He creates very refined and creative sculpture-jewelry. His iconic Thorn shell earrings have become part of the permanent collection of the Shenzhen Jewel Museum in China.
Austy Lee Art Jewellery, Hong Kong, is a former graphic designer who creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces inspired by themes that blend pop-punk, avant-garde, religion, antiquities and fashion.

A.win Siu, China, uses bold colors and combinations of metals and minerals. Created in November 2017, the A.win Siu brand has a personal style. Serendipity Jewelry, France, is one of the emerging talents already present in the November 2022 edition. The brand was founded in Paris in 2017 by Christine Chan, who discovered her passion for stones over ten years ago, on the occasion of a trip to Australia: presents a collection of jewels in which respect for nature, for freedom and for oneself merge. Tenzo, Estonia, is also back, a small established and internationally known jewelery maison, with refined settings in engraved and satin-finish gold, carved precious stones and unprecedented combinations.

Austy Lee, spilla Farfalla imperiale a coda di Spada

Denise Cassou, orecchini in oro 18k con onice, opale e diamanti

Exhibitors at GemGeneve rise to 210

Published on March 7, 2023

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Anello di Filippo G&G. Copyright: gioiellis.com

GemGenève warms up the engines in view of the sixth edition (11-14 May, Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo in Geneva). The event will host 187 jewelery and gemstone brands from 20 countries, but counting the presence of universities, designers, laboratories and other cultural partners such as museums, the total number of exhibitors is expected to exceed 210. Most of the exhibitors come from United States, Switzerland, Hong Kong and Germany, followed by Switzerland, Hong Kong, Germany, Israel, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, followed by companies from the United Kingdom, Italy, United Arab Emirates, Sri Lanka and Singapore, and last but not least Russia, Poland, Austria, Japan, Spain and China.

Provenienza degli espositori a GemGèneve

GemGenève will occupy pavilion 1 of the Palexpo, with a total exhibition space of over 13,000 m2. The exhibitors will be arranged in four coffee station areas, two main aisles and a lounge that will host exhibition spaces, projects and musical and literary events after work. In fact, this year music will be an integral part of the event, thanks to a concept devised by our director Mathieu Dekeukelaire.
Ronny Totah, co-founder of GemGeneve

Statistics indicate that there is a core of 48 exhibitors who will be taking part in GemGenève for the sixth time, while it will be the first time for more than 20 others. Newcomers include names such as Berçot (France), Tom Munsteiner, Heinz Mayer, Emil Weiss Opals (Germany) and JS Fearnley (USA), Sim Gems Limited (Honk Kong), Hari Krishna Exports (India), Futurgem (Italy), Ultraco (Switzerland), Topaze Impériale (Austria), KGK Gems (Thailand). To make life easier, a high-level concierge service led by Pierre-Paul Monnet will also be active this year.

For this completely redesigned spring edition, the setting will be firmly based on the theme of plants and organic life, welcoming visitors in new tones characteristic of nature including beige, white, green and blue.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of the GemGeneve

New spaces and new designers at the next GemGeneve

Published on February 1, 2023

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Anello di Serendipity con Paraiba di 23,47 carati e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Spring is coming. And GemGèneve is preparing for the event: the sixth edition of the fair dedicated to gems, fine vintage jewelery and new design (May 11-14, over 170 exhibitors expected) presents some significant innovations. The first concerns a new location within the Palexpo in Geneva: after pavilions 7 and 6 of the previous five editions, this time GemGèneve will move to Pavilion 1, on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space. The organizers have also decided to redesign the exhibition space, the visitor routes and the main entrance to make the most of the available space and offer exhibitors the best visibility: they will be arranged around four coffee station areas, two main aisles and a lounge which will host exhibition spaces, projects, musical and literary after-work events.

Furthermore, on the wave of growing green sensitivity, the Parisian design agency Autre Idée, which has been collaborating with the organizers since 2021, has opted for an installation based on the theme of plants and organic life for the spring edition. Other innovations concern the emerging talents and new designers area, curated by Nadège Totah. In this area, the fine jewelry of the Belgian designer Fred Fa will debut, refined and a little mysterious, who makes all his sketches, technical drawings and gouache jewelry designs by hand. In the same area there will be Serendipity Jewelry, the result of one of the emerging talents of the November 2022 edition, but this time in the New Designers category, as well as the talented Austy Lee Art Jewelery from Hong Kong: she creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces . The Designer Vivarium will always be curated by the jewelry history Vivienne Becker.

L'Envol du Papillon, bracciale in oro rosa, madreperla, diamanti, tsavoriti e rubellite di Fred Fa — L’Envol du Papillon, bracciale in oro rosa, madreperla, diamanti, tsavoriti e rubellite di Fred Fa

We attach as much importance to gemstones and jewelery creation and design as promoting true solidarity, uniting the international community of gemstone and antique jewelery dealers, designers and all jewelery enthusiasts.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Furthermore, the next edition of GemGenène will not miss Ukrainian jewelers, an initiative launched by Olga Oleksenko in May 2022 in response to the war in Ukraine and supported by the co-founders of GemGenève. The project is called Strong and Precious-Ukrainian Jewelers, and brings together creations by Ukrainian designers, also as a gesture of support for the situation in the country.

Among the collateral initiatives, it is worth mentioning an off-site exhibition at the event with exceptional automatons and other musical and artistic objects organized by the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva. Also off site, the Genevan jeweler Herbert Horovitz, who also manages the Gem Collectors Bookshop, opens the space of the Villa for an event dedicated to the lost arts: crafts that are becoming rare or endangered, such as semi-precious stone mosaicists, peelers and threaders of pearls, polishers, engravers, enamellers, stone setters, stonemasons, lapidarists, sheathers, small hardware gilders, electroformers and gold beaters. The Singapore Gem Museum returns to GemGenève with a fun and interactive learning space.

Bracciale Les beautés de mai, bracciali di Austy Lee

Finally, the collaboration with various art schools, jewelery and other educational institutions related to jewelery is back, with four prizes that will be awarded to the most creative young people: the Visitors’ Choice Prize for the Cfc project, the Asmebi prize for the Cfc project, the Visitors Choice award for the Head x Grand Théâtre de Genève x GemGenève project and the Eric Horovitz Foundation Award for the Cfc project.

Gemme esposte a GemGèneve edizione 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gioielli a GemGèneve 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The date of the next GemGèneve has already been set

Published on November 9, 2022

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The next edition of GemGenève will take place from 11 to 14 May 2023. The date, set well in advance, marks the entrance of the expo invented by Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber in the circle of classic events, such as the Couture in Las Vegas or Vicenzaoro. A success achieved in a few years, with a challenge at Baselworld that not many would have bet on. Instead GemGèneve has become a solid reality. The second round of 2022 (3-6 November) also had a satisfactory outcome. The organizers registered a total of 3,543 visitors who went to the Palexpo to admire or purchase precious stones, period and design jewels. Of the visitors, according to the statistics, 1,662 returned twice, for a total of 5,205 visits. A participation, the organizers underline, that surpasses all previous editions.

The November event was attended by 176 exhibitors, as well as 144 professional dealers, other exhibitors included designers from the Vivarium Quartet, Emerging Talents, New Designers, the Strong & Precious project with Ukrainian designers, school stands, the stand of the Villa hosting the Singapore Gem Museum exhibition, a micromosaic exhibition stand, Bernard Letu and Gem Collectors bookstores.

This edition has exceeded all our expectations in terms of numbers. We had slightly fewer exhibitors in November (176) than in May (201), but never before have we had so many buyers and other visitors. This year GemGenève has further established itself as an authority in the international jewelry trade, becoming one of the most sought after events of its kind.
Ronny Totah, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

Visitors came from over 70 countries. Most come from Switzerland, France and Italy, followed by the United Kingdom, Belgium and the United States, as well as India, Germany and the United Arab Emirates.

It was a great edition. We received positive feedback from many of the attendees on the organization, design and staging of the exhibition. Most of the exhibitors were visibly happy when they left the event, a sign that business was going well.
Thomas Faerber, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

GemGèneve is back, the organizers speak

Published on October 28, 2022

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Thomas Faerber (a sinistra) con Ronny Totah (a destra)

From 3 to 6 November GemGèneve is back, an event at the Palaexpo in the Swiss city centered on gems, vintage jewelery and novelties from jewelery designers. As usual, the two founders and organizers of GemGèneve, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, answer some questions about the event.

Ronny Totah, organizer of GemGenève and co-founder of the event

Question. Once again, GemGenève has numerous surprises and discoveries in store for visitors and exhibitors. The show provides a comprehensive overview of jewellery, precious, rare and unique stones, pearls; antique jewellery, and historic and modern creations. What’s your secret?

Ronny Totah. I would like to answer that question by pointing out that there is no secret. We have always explained what we are and what our essence is. And the cultural programme flows from that. We’re a small team but we give it our all. We have Mathieu Dekeukelaire (director di GemGenève) in the team and he’s highly committed to producing this cultural programme. He is constantly seeking out new opportunities and novelties to present during the show and makes it a point of honour to create a first-class cultural programme for each new edition. On the other hand, when people realise that GemGenève is not just a trade show but an event in itself, they want to be associated with it. Some projects come directly to us, as was the case with the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation. And this is actually the reward, or a consequence of our initial aim to set up and event which emphasises culture, youth, training, knowledge transfer and above all, on our passion for the jewellery professions. GemGenève, is a trade show AND an event that has been created from the heart.

Question. You recently announced «There are no future plans to put on two editions of GemGenève each year.» This November edition was put on at the express request of exhibitors. Why have you always given in to your exhibitors’ demands up to now? Don’t you know how to say no?

Ronny Totah. Don’t I know how to say no? Perhaps I’ll start with that question. I might perhaps find it difficult to say no in many areas, but it’s not that I don’t know how to say no. Since Thomas and I are also exhibitors, when exhibitors come to us with specific requests, we are able to decide whether they make sense or not. Regarding the November edition, I had confirmation that buyers themselves (and not just exhibitors) needed an event like ours at the end of year, and in Europe. That’s one of the reasons why we agreed to their request. And I am pretty sure that we´ve made the right decision! Now, the next question: how often should we hold GemGenève in the future? I can’t answer that. Thomas and I are constantly listening to the market. And we will talk with everyone who participates in the success of a show: buyers, exhibitors, ourselves and our team.

Question. Why do you think people are passionate about GemGenève? Please tell us about your business model.

Ronny Totah. GemGenève’s business model is definitely the same as the business model of a wedding planner. The spouses are the exhibitors and buyers (there are clearly two components like there are in a wedding), and we need to meet the needs of this buyer-exhibitor couple. And that is very important because operating like that eliminates all risk. A conventional organiser will need to take a risk: they place a bet, hoping that in the month of April, for instance, an entire profession with which he is not familiar – because show organisers are not familiar with the profession they exhibit – will need a show in Italy or Germany, or somewhere else. He’s therefore going to start organising this exhibition, estimating the number of people who will attend and making reservations. But this is a risk and the organiser must account for a margin to mitigate any costly mistakes being made. With GemGenève, it’s totally different. We don’t need to take that risk because we respond to a demand that’s real and already there. By not taking that risk, we don’t have the financial need to accumulate money in case we make a bad decision or launch an event that won’t meet our expectations. With us, it’s the complete opposite: our response must meet the expectations of exhibitors and buyers. And that’s why we supplement the commercial side of GemGenève with a whole range of (essentially) cultural and educational events. We think that the passion for a show like GemGenève stems essentially from our business model which, as yet, has no equivalent.

Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Question. With the current economic and political situation, how is the gem and jewellery market doing? Are you seeing a slowdown in the economy or an increase in prices for certain materials?

Thomas Faerber. The demand for gemstones and the search for rare, valuable pieces remains very high. Finding a new source of these exquisite gemstones is sometimes a challenge. We are also seeing a sharp rise in prices for small diamonds up to 0.05 carats. One reason for this is the Western sanctions imposed on the mining giant Alrosa, a specialist in small diamonds.

Question. You present some beautiful micromosaic pieces in this edition. What is your favourite piece and why?

Thomas Faerber. Personally, I really like this pendant made of acetate and antique micro-mosaic by Carlotte Angloz X Flab. It is a circular pendant set with an 18th century (dated from around 1790) micro-mosaic of a butterfly in an orange acetate and 18k rose gold frame, suspended from a 18k rose gold chain. The frame was designed by Charlotte Angloz for FLAB, marked FF for Faerber and numbered 33390 (pendant approx. 5.8 x 5.8 cm, chain length approx. 41 cm). My daughter Ida and I were impressed by the high standard of Charlotte Angloz’ work. In order to develop the next generation of young talent, we supported this talented student from the Geneva School of Art and Design (HEAD) to develop and launch her first capsule collection. These unique creations were presented for the first time at GemGenve 2021, on the Faerber-Collection stand.

Micromosaico di Charlotte Angloz per FLAB, — Micromosaico di Charlotte Angloz per FLAB

Question. What message would you like to send to the visitors of GemGenève?

Thomas Faerber. First of all, as we have chosen high-level exhibitors, whatever the size of their company or their stand, I hope that our professional buyers and collectors will again find the treasures they are looking for before the end of the year. On the other hand, I hope that visitors to GemGenève will be inspired by the discoveries they make on site and that they will once again find themselves amazed by the creativity of the young designers’ exhibited works. I would like to stress that this edition promises to be particularly rich in novelties with a high quality cultural programme. For my part, I am looking forward to discovering the exhibition on Micromosaics and the Fabulous Carl Fabergé exhibition of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation as well as the stand of the Gem Museum of Singapore. Tay Kunming, the founder of the museum, will present a collection of gemstones and minerals to the public. This will be accompanied by explanations of the different stages of their transformation and will allow the general public to better understand our industry. Finally, I wish all the exhibitors a good and successful GemGenève.

Culture and exhibitions in GemGèneve, here is the program

Published on October 26, 2022

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A few days from GemGenève (3-6 November), the event dedicated to gems, vintage jewels and new designers organized at the Palaexpo of the Swiss city specifies the calendar of surrounding events, which are now an integral part of the appointment. During the five days of the exhibition, the director of the exhibition Mathieu Dekeukelaire promoted a series of exhibitions and talks on the world of jewelry. The following is the list of proposals.

Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation
Organized to celebrate 40 years of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, the Fabulous Carl Fabergé exhibition features more than one hundred Fabergé objects on display, with four main objects, including three imperial eggs. Two will be revealed for the first time in public and included in the next catalog raisonné (due out next winter).
Speakers: Bernard Ivaldi, Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff (respectively President and Vice-president of the Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé)

Spilla "Fiocco di neve" con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm — Spilla “Fiocco di neve” con gemme. Platino, diamanti. Attribuito al laboratorio di Alma Pihl, Carl Fabergé Diametro 3,2cm

The art of micromosaic through the centuries: with magnificent pieces loaned by some exhibitors, museums and private collectors of GemGenève. Birds, mythological themes, famous monuments typical of the late 18th or early 19th century and the Grand Tour, contemporary pieces and Roman mosaics from the Aventicum. It is an exhibition designed to present the lost art of micromosaic, linking Roman mosaics, Roman micromosaics and contemporary micromosaics.
Lectures and round tables will be organized to discuss these arts.
Speakers: Alice Minter (curator of the Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection, at the V&A Museum – London), Sophie Bartschi (curator of the Avenches Museum and Sites).

The Gem Museum, Singapore: The museum aims to make gemology accessible and attractive to a wider audience. The Gem Museum will present an exhibition composed of precious stones and scientific awareness workshops, with demonstrations, observations, where you can discover all the wonders of gems.
Speaker: Kunming Tay

For schools
Head (Geneva University of Art and Design): exhibition of four bachelor’s degree projects by students of the Product, Jewelery and Accessories Design department
Current speaker: Nina Genus

Asmebi (Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie) – Etvj – Cfp Arts Genève – Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués: students will be asked to work in turns on a piece of jewelry, using two workbenches (traditional technical production of a jewel, fabrication of the setting , lunettes, cutting, filing, etc.) + group work (drawings, wax sculptures)
Speakers: Richard Carbonnelle (Cfp Arts Genève), Emmanuelle Garcia (Asmebi), François Monnin (Etvj), Tony Marchese (Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués).

Launch of the gouache contest between the three schools for May 2023 (Subject: Rien ne se perd, tout se transforme (Nothing is lost, everything is transformed), in which all participating students participate. Design workshop, presented by Elizabeth Fischer ( Head Genève).

Lo spazio riservato alla Head. Foto: G.Maillot

Create: manage the Crea Eyes Instagram account by creating and editing digital content directly at the fair (photos, videos, interviews with prominent personalities). Crea Genève – Omnes Education offers three-year and master’s degrees in Marketing, Communication and Digital.
Speaker: Donatella Zappieri
Grand Theater of Geneva:
In continuous collaboration with the Grand Théâtre de Genève to make GemGenève part of the cultural landscape of Geneva.
Exhibition of exceptional costumes from the first opera of the 2022/2023 season – La Juive including a magnificent emperor cloak over ten meters long and other surprises. The work done in the workshops, the company experience, the endangered professions are on show.
Discounts for GemGenève visitors and exhibitors on GTG tickets (Grand Théâtre de Genève)
Free admission for GTG members
Speaker: Sabryna Pierre (Head of Cultural Development, GTG)
Partnership already approved for the workshop with HEAD and HEJ students for May 2023

Books: In collaboration with Librairie Bernard Letu
• The metaphysics of jewelery: Charline Coupeau (simplified thesis)
• The soul of the jewel Charline Coupeau, co-author
• Cartier, Rachael Taylor
• Tiffany, Rachael Taylor
• The new stone age, Carol Woolton
• Vogue The jewels, Carol Woolton

Un talk nella precedente edizione di GemGèneve

Conferences and talk

THURSDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 12.30-Fabergé and his influence on his contemporaries, by Olivier Bachet
13.45 – 15.00 – Announcement of the subject for the Gouache 2023 Competition – ETVJ x CFP Arts Genève x CPNE Pôle Arts Appliqués, followed by the workshop La conceptualization d’un design (The conceptualization of a design), by Elizabeth Fischer (teacher at HEAD Geneva) .
15.30 – 16.30 – Exploration of the extraction of precious stones: Sri Lanka and Zambia, by Richa Goyal Sikri (journalist and narrator). An examination of the lessons learned by Richa during visits to mines, comparing an artisanal mining site (Sri-Lanka) with a large-scale one (Zambia).
13.30 – 14.30 – Book signing: Rachael Taylor, Cartier / Tiffany

FRIDAY 4 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 12.30-History of Bulgari and creation of his style, by Amanda Triossi
13.45 – 14.45 – Splendida et Minuta: trendy Roman jewelery in micromosaic
A Grand Tour around the 18th and 19th century production, from Roman origins to the Napoleonic court and the archaeological revival, by Prof. Anna Maria Massinelli (former curator of the Gilbert Collection, author of the monograph on Giacomo Raffaelli and many other works) and Andrea Petochi;
15.00 – 16.15 – What makes design exceptional? A round table led by Katerina Perez (influencer), with David Roux-Fouillet (head of the product, jewelry and accessories design department, HEAD Genève), Olivier Bachet (expert) and Vivienne Becker (jewelery historian, author);
16.30 – 18.00 – Between science and business, what the names of the stones say about us (Between science and business, what the names of the stones say about us), round table organized by the Association Gemmologie & Francophonie on the challenges of naming precious stones and legal aspects, with Drew Battaglia (jewelry expert and gemmologist), Aurélien Delaunay (CIBJO Diamond Commission and Gemmological Commission, representative of France in ISO), Emmanuel Fritsch (teacher and researcher at the Institut des Matériaux Jean Roule, Nantes; Member of the International Mineralogical Association), Emmanuel Piat (gem merchant, vice president of the CIBJO Colored Stone Commission), Thomas Hainschwang (Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemmology, Inventor of imaging and spectroscopy techniques DFI, Gemmologist), Enzo Liverino ( President of CIBJO Coral Commission), moderated by Boris Chauviré and Marie Chabrol (lecturer at the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur, journalist and with sulente);
2.30 – 3.30 pm – Autograph: Carol Woolton, The New Stone Age / Vogue The Jewelery
Professional event | L’Enseignement en joaillerie: les entreprises formatrices (Jewelery teaching: companies providing training), round table / workshop by invitation only, with ASMEBI, CFP Arts Genève, OFPC and companies with the possibility of training students through apprenticeships;

SATURDAY 5 NOVEMBER 2022

11.30 – 13.00 – Experience! Entre authentification et estimation (Expert evaluations / Between authentication and evaluation. Round table organized by the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, with Alexandra Blin Kourbatoff, Bernard Ivaldi, Michel Kamidian, Marie-Cécile Cisamolo;
13.30 – 14.30 – The art de la micro-mosaïque, origins, inspirations and techniques, comparison with Alice Minter and Sophie Bärtschi (curator of the Site and Roman Museum of Avenches); Moderator: Gislain Aucremanne (jewel historian);
14.45 – 15.45 – Collecting antique jewelry, conversation with Helen Molesworth (senior curator of the Jewelery Gallery at the V&A Museum) and Vivienne Becker (author and historian of the jewel);
16.00 – 17.00 – From cracked paintings to micromosaics – The Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection of micromosaics, by Alice Minter (curator of the Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection, V&A Museum);
5.15pm – 6.15pm-Les Trésors de Toutankhamon et son héritage en joaillerie (Tutankhamun’s treasures and his legacy for jewels), by Gislain Aucremanne (jewel historian). On the influence of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb on the jewels of the 1920s on modern Egyptomania.

Book autographs:
14.30 – 15.30 – Charline Coupeau, The soul of the jewel / The metaphysics of the jewel
1.30 – 16.30 – Caroline Charron, Fabergé, from the Tsar’s Court to exile

SUNDAY 5 NOVEMBER 2022

13.30 – 14.30 – Jewels of all times: a way to spread joy and wonder, moderated by the millennial influencer and journalist Laura Inghirami (Donna Jewel), with David Brough [journalist], and Marianne Fisher (dealership, Paul Fisher Inc.)

14.45 – 15.45 – Young people and jewelery: training courses to respond to the challenges of the sector and the needs of businesses, round table moderated by Donatella Zappieri (jewelery business consultant), with the participation of Emmanuelle Garcia-Gavillet (ASMEBI), Elisabeth Fischer (HEAD), Catherine de Vincenti (journalist) and Allen Adler (Adler Joaillerie)

GemGèneve
place | Dates | Opening time
Palexpo Hall 6 – Entrance in the same place as last year, just in front of the walkway (next to Hall 5) Route François-Peyrot 301218 – Le Grand-Saconnex GE
Just 10 minutes walk from Geneva airport
● Dates: November 3-6, 2022
● Opening hours: 10:00 – 18:30
● Price: CHF 50.-, valid for the entire duration of the show; free for students upon presentation of the student card

Ukrainian jewelry at GemGèneve

Published on October 22, 2022

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GemGenève does not forget Ukraine. Also in the new edition of the event scheduled from 3 to 6 November there will be jewelry creators operating in the country under attack by Russia. In GemGèneve, the organizers planned the Strong & Precious project, which aims to make Ukrainian jewelers known on the international scene. Alongside contemporary creations, the antique jewels of the most famous Ukrainian jeweler of the 20th century, Joseph Marchak, will also be exhibited. He was Fabergé’s main competitor, yet Marchak was called the Cartier of Kiev. Now his jewels occupy a special place in private collections and auction houses.

Ukrainian goldsmith art has very deep roots and every phase of its history, from antiquity to modernity, deserves our careful attention. We are making every effort to organize this exhibition in order to amaze the foreign public with its originality and be remembered for a long time.
Natalia Kietiene, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Among the Ukrainian jewelry brands present on display are Nomis, Inesa Kovalova, Bevza, Rockah.brand, Sergey Zhernov Art & Jewelry, Drutis Jewelery, Lutiki, Gunia, Denis Music.

The dissemination of Ukrainian culture – cinema, art, music, literature or jewelry – is our duty today. We want to be recognized and seen through the prism of our truly brilliant cultural tradition. Our first exhibition was a real success and I have no doubt that this time too demanding and professional visitors will appreciate our goldsmith artists
Olga Oleksenko, curator of the Strong & Precious project

Pendente-spilla di Rockah.brand

Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Sea Dreams Kaleidoscope-and-Sides con topazio, tanzanite, smeraldo e apatite di Drutis Jewellery

Vivarium Quartet, four designer at GemGèneve

Published on October 20, 2022

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Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com

It is called Vivarium Quartet. And it is defined as a mini showcase for creators. At the next GemGèneve (3-6 November 2022), Vivienne Becker, jewel historian and curator of the Designer Vivarium of GemGenève, has selected four designer-jewelers: Alix Dumas of Mad Joaillerie, Philippe Lauras, who returns to Geneva as well as Alex Jefford, and Elena Okutova, who previously participated in the Emerging Talents review. Each of the four designers has a different style and a different story behind them. In the coming days we will explore the work of individual designers.

Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie

In short, Alix Dumas is a designer born in France, but who has also lived in Romania and Turkey, including Istanbul. She launched her own brand and in 2020 she founded Mad Joaillerie, despite her name, not a crazy decision (you can find her work here). Philippe Lauras, on the other hand, had an artistic education at the École de Joaillerie de Paris (BJOP), but he also studied gemology, design and sculptural modeling. He started working in 1980 and had the opportunity to train in two of the most famous Parisian high jewelery workshops (we wrote about he here). Alex Jefford was born and raised in Geneva, but lives in London, where she studied fine arts at Central Saint Martins College, with a predilection for engraving and drawing: we have already talked about her work here. Elena Okutova, was born in St. Petersburg, but lives and works in Moscow with her mother Irina. Her work is deeply rooted in Russian traditions, those of craftsmanship and the use of enamels and colored gemstones.

Alex Jefford, anello in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti

Philippe Lauras, orecchini Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti — Philippe Lauras, orecchini
Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti

Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com

100 Fabergé jewels at GemGèneve

Published on October 8, 2022

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Fabergé jewels are part of the history not only of jewelry, but of culture. And they are not exclusively related to the mythical eggs collected by the tsars. The tradition, style and legacy of the Maison Fabergé have come down to us thanks to the special place occupied by the craftsmanship and creativity of Peter Carl Fabergé, the most famous designer of the family of jewelers active in St. Petersburg. His son, Igor Carl Fabergé, started a foundation that celebrates 40 years this year. And to celebrate the anniversary, he organized a major exhibition as part of GemGenève (3-6 November).

Calamaio ingioiellato d'oro a due colori a forma di fungo porcino. Oro, diamanti taglio rosa, cabochon rubis, cabochon zaffiri, mastro Frederich Koechli, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 larghezza 9,0cm Collezione Palais Royal Hong Kong Ltd — Calamaio ingioiellato d’oro a due colori a forma di fungo porcino. Oro, diamanti taglio rosa, cabochon rubis, cabochon zaffiri, mastro Frederich Koechli, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 larghezza 9,0cm Collezione Palais Royal Hong Kong Ltd

Bernard Ivaldi, president of the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, recalls that while most of the notoriety about Fabergé is concentrated on the precious Easter eggs commissioned by the Russian imperial family and important private patrons, the Maison’s business does not end here. This is why the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation has decided to offer a different approach by presenting “new finds” and little-known objects as the starting point of the exhibition.

Spilla di presentazione imperiale “Aquila a due teste”. Oro, argento, diamanti, Bottega di Henrik Wigström, Carl Fabergé, numero di inventario 1418 San Pietroburgo 1903, Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 4,5 cm

The exhibition includes over 100 pieces from private collections and offers a look at the richness and versatility of the Fabergé workshops. Many pieces have not previously been exhibited in Europe and some are presented for the first time in this exhibition.

Segnalibro oro smaltato. Oro, smalto, cristallo di rocca. Scatola in pelle originale su misura Officina di Mikhail Perkhin, Carl Fabergé, Numero di inventario 2976, San Pietroburgo circa 1900 Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Lunghezza 5,9 cm

Campanello a forma di cuore. Argento dorato, oro, smalto, perle, calcedonio, Provenienza: Granduchessa Elena Vladimirovna e Nicolas Principe di Grecia Larghezza 5,0 cm

Sigillo a mano in nefrite ingioiellato. Oro, nefrite, rubini, perle. Bottega di Mikhail Perkhin La matrice è incisa con lo stemma della famiglia di Gorchakov Altezza 12,3cm

Cornice del vaso di Pandora. Cornice smaltata, argento dorato, argento dorato, smalto, Workmaster Israel Roukhomovsky, Parigi circa 1910

Bollitore d'argento semplice. Una grande "bouilloire" in argento semplice con un supporto e il bruciatore, Numero di inventario 23184, officine di Mosca di Carl Fabergé, 1901 Altezza 24,00 cm — Bollitore d’argento semplice. Una grande “bouilloire” in argento semplice con un supporto e il bruciatore, Numero di inventario 23184, officine di Mosca di Carl Fabergé, 1901 Altezza 24,00 cm

Chitarra russa a sette corde. Bomboniera a forma di chitarra russa a sette corde, scolpita da un'unica pietra di agata corniola, cornalina, oro, perle, smalto, numero di inventario 54223. Attribuito alla bottega di Mikhail Perkhin, Fabergé Lunghezza 10,2cm — Chitarra russa a sette corde. Bomboniera a forma di chitarra russa a sette corde, scolpita da un’unica pietra di agata corniola, cornalina, oro, perle, smalto, numero di inventario 54223. Attribuito alla bottega di Mikhail Perkhin, Fabergé Lunghezza 10,2cm

La campana di tre tartarughe suona. Campana circolare “Tree turtles”, oro, granato, diamanti con taglio a rosa, pietra dura, numero di inventario 553, Carl Fabergé. Provenienza: Imperatrice Maria Fedorovna di Russia Diametro 8,4 cm

GemGenève reaches 170 exhibitors

Published on September 21, 2022

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It is the last major appointment of 2022 dedicated to jewelry: the fifth edition of GemGenève (Geneva, Palaexpo pavilion 6, from 3 to 6 November), presents itself with very encouraging numbers: 144 jewelry retailers from 19 countries and over 170 exhibitors , between schools, designers, laboratories and other partners. The new autumn edition, after the one held in May, also hosts a special space reserved for the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary. A hundred pieces representing the story of Carl Fabergé and his master craftsmen will be exhibited, including three imperial eggs in preview, which will appear in the next catalog for winter 2022-2023.

GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com

After the success of the May 2022 edition and following the requests of our exhibitors, we have decided to organize a second edition in November 2022 in Geneva, but in the future it will not become the norm. The percentage of rebookings between the May and November 2022 editions is over 80%. More than 43 exhibitors participate for the fifth time in GemGenève and over 24 exhibitors will discover the fair for the first time.
Ronny Totah, organizer of GemGèneve

In terms of attendance, American exhibitors are always in the foreground, and alone account for a quarter of the attendees. This is followed by exhibitors from Switzerland, Hong Kong, Israel, Germany, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, and then companies from the United Kingdom, Singapore, Italy and the United Arab Emirates. And finally, exhibitors from Japan, Russia, Portugal and Spain.
Among the exhibitors at GemGèneve for the first time there are companies such as Ashok Jewelers (India), Arslanian Group (Belgium), House of Art, Madly, Mahenge Gems, Sunny Gem, Miranda Group (Hong Kong) and Heritage Signed Jewels (Portugal).

gemme gemgeneve copyright gioiellis com — Gemme a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

The new designers of GemGèneve

Published on September 2, 2022

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News for the next edition of GemGèneve scheduled from 3 to 6 November. Nine designers will be present: four are part of the Emerging Talents area and five for New Designers, selected by Nadège Totah. The designers are a permanent presence in the event that includes companies specializing in high quality gems and vintage jewelry: they therefore represent an open window on today’s jewelry and tomorrow’s too.

The work of these designers is displayed in a dedicated space at the heart of GemGenève, a space in which visitors, we hope, will have time and space to study the jewels, to be intrigued, to see and appreciate the new dynamism that is energising jewellery-making today.
Nadège Totah

The four Emerging Talents include Wallis Hong, a Chinese based in Spain, who features miniature sculpture-jewelry made from different materials. They are inspired by nature, marine life, cytology (a discipline that studies the structure and functions of animal and plant cells), botany, religion, mythology. In the same section there is Serendipity Jewelry, France, a brand founded in Paris by Christine Chan in 2017. The designer discovered her passion for stones during a trip to Australia over ten years ago and presents a collection of pieces, combining a concept of respect for nature, respect for freedom and respect for oneself. The third designer is
Vincent Michel, Swiss, with the brand of the same name. He is based in Lausanne and is a travel and mountain enthusiast, from which he draws natural elements are not only a source of inspiration but also his working tools. Finally, Youra Jewelry comes from Saudi Arabia and is a brand based in Riyadh, founded by designer Rabaa Saleh Alangari, who began her journey with a great passion for diamonds, painting, colors and creation.

The five who are part of the New Designers area see the return of Sean Gilson, United States, an American goldsmith and designer who personally creates each of his jewels in his studio in Connecticut and in his laboratory in New York City: he will present a novelty series. A debut for GemGèneve is instead that of Leyser, Germany. Thomas’s grandfather operated precious stone mines in Brazil and ensured the supply of rough stones to the lapidary workshops in Idar-Oberstein, thus creating one of the leading companies in the region. Thomas, along with his son Sebastian, went ahead and developed a passion for creating finished jewelry: he produces a luxury collection of high quality fine jewelry and supplies jewelers all over the world.

Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Paola Brussino comes from Italy, an architect and designer from Turin, who has collaborated with major international jewelry brands. After living in Geneva for a long time, she returned to Italy in 2012 and started a path of pure research. Attracted by the creative possibilities offered by the use of new materials, the designer was among the first to use carbon, titanium, zirconium and corian in fine jewelry. Another return is, however, that of Tenzo, one of those jewelers capable of combining art and design, of which we have already spoken on several occasions. Finally, from Thailand comes the creations of Toji Jewelry, which presents a unique collection of colored gemstones, each with a different story, each with a different meaning, which allows them to create jewelry that reveals the hidden splendor of nature.

Paola Brussino, orecchini La Rose de Edith

GemGèneve returns and celebrates Fabergé

Published on August 15, 2022

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Ronny Totah, one of the two organizers of GemGèneve together with Thomas Faerber, announced it last April: “GemGenève is like a wedding planner for exhibitors. If they want us to schedule two editions a year, we will. We have already received requests for a fair in November of this year ”. The confirmation arrived in mid-August: GemGèneve autumn edition will take place. Last year the appointment with vintage jewelry, avant-garde design and precious gems in the Swiss city was set in November due to the restrictions due to the covid, which had blocked the spring edition. This year, however, the double event, after the one in May, is simply the response to market demands.

I fondatori di GemGèneve, Thomas Faerber e Ronny Totah

“We originally planned to hold only one edition, in May 2022. Following calls from our exhibitors, we decided to organize a second edition in autumn 2022 in Geneva, but this should not become standard practice in the future,” says Ronny. Tota. The new edition of GemGèneve will be held from Thursday 3 to Sunday 6 November at the Palexpo in Geneva and will coincide with the great autumn auctions of the Geneva Luxury Week. In addition to the presence of exhibitors, side events are scheduled. But, of course, business remains the focus. The numbers measure the weight of this deliberately selective event: the first edition, in 2018, had 147 exhibitors and 3,206 visitors. The following year 210 exhibitors and 3,474 visitors. In 2021, autumn edition with problems of post covid restrictions, 120 exhibitors and 2,757 visitors, last May 201 exhibitors and 3,302 visitors. The visits are actually many more if you count those who attended the fair for several days.

For this edition, which this time will be held in pavilion 6 (usually it is 7), the organizers have also imagined a new scenography, very different from the previous editions and “adapted to the place”. The layout of the room is more squared, less elongated, requires more central spaces that should appeal to more participants and visitors. It will also be an opportunity to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Fondation Igor Carl Fabergé, which this year turns 40, will celebrate its anniversary during the fair and is preparing a beautiful exhibition of exceptional pieces by the famous jeweler of the Tsars. The Foundation will present a range of pieces representing the vast experience of Carl Fabergé and his skilled artisans, ranging from imperial eggs to objets de vertu, testifying to the elegance of his work.

Nadège Totah is once again entrusted with the Emerging Talents area, dedicated to young designers. Among the recent discoveries, in particular, a young self-taught multidisciplinary artist-jeweler who will be presented for the first time at the GemGenève: Wallis Hong, born in China, lives in Spain. Among the new emerging talents also Serendipity Jewelery, created in 2017 in Paris by Christine Chan, and the Vincent Michel jewelery workshop, which offers sur mesure jewelery as well as an exclusive high jewelery collection made up of unique pieces that blend aesthetics, sometimes poetic, and technique. GemGenève will also include the Designer Vivarium for this edition. Tenzo is back, together with the stand of Ukrainian jewelers Strong & Precious, already present in May. An entire space will be dedicated to the art of micromosaic, with a “big surprise” announced.

Gemme a GemGèneve, maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Towe’s microscope nature

Published on August 13, 2022

Showroom

Towe’s high jewelry seen through the eyes of biology, as if under a microscope ♦ ︎

Towe Norlén is the founder of the brand that bears her name. The designer is Swedish and the headquarters of the small Maison founded in 1999 is Stockholm, but before creating her own brand, Towe worked in Geneva, Switzerland, for numerous jewelers such as Harry Winston and Piaget, as well as for Sotheby’s. Towe also has another particular aspect: the fusion of high jewelery with biology. A concept that is a step beyond the usual jewel-nature combination, that is, leaves, animals, fruits recreated in gold and precious stones. Here we go into a new dimension: for example, a special feature is the Silk Pattern, which is inspired by the skin, at the molecular level. “My goal is to capture the spirit of nature in its purest form,” says Towe Norlén, who studied design in Copenhagen before specializing in Geneva. “What drives me, I suppose, is a search for purity.”

Anello della collezione Chanterelle in oro bianco e diamanti

This is the starting point. To which the designer adds other considerations: ” I often think about what defines true luxury. Is it the extravagance of others knowing what you are wearing? Or is it the timelessness of quality? Is it the heritage of luxury, or being able to charge a premium? To me, true luxury is the embodiment of a sense of purity. The clarity of a thought that grows into an idea and takes the form of a design. The purity of the natural materials I work with and how I strive to master them. The time and dedication put into every single detail of what I do. But also the humility of realizing that one’s work is never finished. Constantly looking for new ways to reinvent oneself and learn from other fields of thought, to be inspired and to inspire others. Trying to push the boundaries and find new dimensions of my craft. Ultimately, creating modern pieces that will become future classics. At its utmost, the embodiment of purity is the reflection of joy in a person’s face when she wears something that defines her, a unique romantic memory, a feeling that can last a lifetime.”
The result these reflections are jewels that, in fact, have a structure that somehow resembles the pattern of certain materials seen under a microscope. Only here are molecules and atoms represented by diamonds.

The lightness of Aaltas

Published on August 1, 2022

Showroom

Aluminum has been re-evaluated as a material for jewelry by prestigious fashion houses, by avant-garde designers and also by young enterprising new brands. Like Sonia Lacroix, who lives and works in Geneva, one of the poles of great jewelry and great watchmaking in the world, an activity for which the designer has worked. She does it all by herself, designing and handcrafting her production. At the basis of which, of course, there is the idea of her which is summarized in the name of her brand: Aaltas.

Collana in alluminio champagne e diamanti

A name that would be quite cryptic if she didn’t explain its meaning herself. It is a reference to the expression “a altas horas”, which in Spanish means to stay up late. In short, stay up late. And if in Spanish the expression is associated with nightlife, for Sonia Lacroix it means giving vent to her creativity outside the box. Aaltas jewels are simple and complex, with geometric shapes, but studied with attention and imagination. They are, as mentioned, in aluminum, and therefore very light, with gold details and the addition of small stones. The first collection is called Mambo, a perfect dance for those who live at night.

Orecchini della collezione Mambo in alluminio, oro 18 carati e diamanti

Mambo Light Antique Rose alumium diamonds — Orecchini della collezione Mambo in alluminio rosa antico e diamanti

Orecchini mini della collezione Mambo in alluminio e oro 18 carati

Orecchini in alluminio turchese, oro 18 carati e rubini

Caspita what jewels

Published on July 12, 2022

Rings/Design/Showroom

Collane Vishuddha della collezione Chakra in oro, diamanti, smalto

The alchemy of Arlène Bonnant and her Caspita, a jewelery house that has the name of an exclamation in Italian. But a refined formula ♦ ︎

First premise for non-Italian readers. The word “caspita” in Dante’s language is an exclamation. Those who pronounce it usually add an exclamation mark: wow! It means more or less: “I’m really impressed with this …”. Arlène Bonnant’s grandfather seems to have often pronounced the word caspita and that is why the designer named Caspita her small jewelery house based in Geneva, Switzerland.

Second premise. The story of Arlène Bonnant starts from contemporary art. She is an expert in 20th and 21st century art. She worked for eight years together with Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg, and acquired a deep knowledge of the art market. When Phillips de Pury & Company was acquired by the Lvmh group (which then resold it) Arlène Bonnant worked in the Contemporary Art department. In 2005 he created AB Concepts and Dreams (ABCD), a company that cataloged and ensured the conservation of a collection of 300 art objects.

Among the designer’s first initiatives was the collaboration with Zaha Hadid Architects on a collection that combines innovative design technologies and the highest level of craftsmanship. The result was faceted reticular jewels reminiscent of cellular structures. Each piece has been further shaped by ergonomic considerations. The Skein collection includes rings worked in 18-karat gold, some inlaid with precious stones inside the delicate lattice structure, and launched at the Zaha Hadid Design Gallery in London during the Caspita pop-up store.

Collier Farandole Sahasrara in oro bianco e diamanti

These premises serve to understand why when Arlène decided to devote herself to jewels she considered them in all respects as works of art. And the sources of inspiration were travels to Greece, Italy, India (above all), Israel and Egypt, painters such as Goya, Mantegna, Bosh, Blake and Caravaggio, as well as a particular sensitivity for the world of spirituality. It is no coincidence that his collections are called Chakras and Ourobouros or Alchemy. Perhaps considering the matter divided into sulfur, mercury and salt is a bit simple. But the designer considers alchemy is a spiritual path, like any other path towards self-improvement. Wow, then it’s a bit like jewelry. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale Chakra in oro giallo 18 carati, 47 spinelli, 49 zaffiri arancioni, 57 zaffiri gialli, 66 tsavoriti, zaffiri blu, 48 ametiste e 224 diamanti

Collana in oro 18 carati con 18 diamanti, 136 rubini, 98 zaffiri arancioni, 121 zaffiri gialli , 60 tsavoriti , 44 zaffiri blu e 29 ametiste. La chiusura è in oro con 62 diamanti

Anello in oro e diamanti, in collaborazione con Zaha Hadid Architects

Anello Tourbillon, oro giallo e diamanti