The dream book by Michele della Valle

It seems strange to tell, but the jewels of Michele della Valle are born (also) in the clouds. Let me be clear, not conceived between a terminal and a check-out, or assembled between the seats of a first class. However, at the same time, the clouds are the ones you see from Boeing or Airbus, the wings on which often travel the thoughts of the marquis-jeweler from surprising creativity. Why on a plane? Simple, because part of the choice of della Valle is developed around the stone, like was a person, an idea, a surprise. The jewels conceived, designed, transformed by thought, in fact, are imagined on transparency and the shades of the stones choices. Elements observed carefully, before undergoing a strict selection on site, ie in Asia, where della Valle observes, weighs, evaluates. In short, the jewel is born when the designer chooses a gem it would choose as a partner or rather a friend. From that moment begins the creative process that accompanies it until the idea that flows like a spring from the stone and turns into one of the jewels that according Amber Michelle, editor in chief of Rapaport Magazine, the bible of the diamonds, “Gems give the texture and dimension that make a piece sing a whispered song to the one who is meant to wear that particular item of jewellery”. In this way can born earrings with the same design but, in the same time, each one settled ad hoc. Or bracelets where the gems make a geometric design, but without losing their irregularities. And, yet, pins in the shape of animals, stratospheric necklaces, surprising combinations. Sometime even with the use of materials such as titanium or synthetics such as Perspex, because creativity has no boundaries.

Michele della Valle, Jewels & Myths
Michele della Valle, Jewels & Myths

An early vocation

Let’s step back: Michele della Valle, born in Rome, is one of those people who are lucky enough to hear a vocation in the first years of life. And who can achieve the dream that they have cultivated. He, for example, began to imagine jewelry when he was 16. But his life changed really, tells the biography, after a trip to Burma, in 1976, during which della Valle has bought his first stone. With a little ‘boldness, showed the gem to Roger Varenne, a leading expert in the market, which suggested he bring the gem to Christie’s. A brilliant idea, since Hans Nadelhoffer, at that time head of the jewelry, has contributed to the career of della Valle. The first job is at one of the most famous jewelers in Rome, Fürst, in Via Veneto, representative of Harry Winston. After a couple of years, in 1978, della Valle has opened his own workshop in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna, and began to travel regularly in Asia, in search of precious stones. It was also the beginning of a collaboration with Bulgari for special occasions and his consecration as a designer for a clientele of movie stars and opera singers throughout Italy. In 1987, della Valle moved to Geneva, where he created the jewelry line that bears his name.

They are not jewelry that you can buy at the boutique near home. They are special pieces, unique works, fantasies in the form of precious materials. Suffice it to say that Christie’s, which sells her jewelry, list della Valle among the artist / makers / authors, along with painters and sculptors. And not without reason, since his creative process is not industrial but exclusively individual.

Palette. Multicolour sapphire, emerald, rubellite, paraiba
Palette. Multicolour sapphire, emerald, rubellite, paraiba

Great pictures

The work of della Valle is witnessed in a large format book and in an gorgeous edition that all jewelry lovers, those who have shined eyes at the sight of the fine things, should possess. It’s called Michele della Valle, Jewels & Myths (published by Antique Collect, 350 pages) and you can buy on Amazon by clicking here. The myths are those that appear here and there among the pages: from Maria Callas to Caterina Caselli, by John Fitzgerald Kennedy to Coco Chanel. But, of course, the protagonists are the jewels. Especially those made with Burmese rubies and sapphires, but not only. From large colored necklaces, the brooch with the shape of a car, or a flower. Earrings inspired by the Colosseum, the pendent dedicated to Snoopy. They swing between contemporary myths, sometimes irreverent subjects (for example Pirates bracelet, with the skulls, 2005), or classic pieces of fine jewelry. The volume covers the creative road of della Valle. It is an autobiography exclusively in images, while the text is limited to read captions. A book to be seen, you can not miss on the table of those who love the jewelry.

Michele della Valle.
Michele della Valle. (Courtesy Sotheby’s)
Pirates. White and red coral, ruby, emerald, black and white diamond bracelet. 2005
Pirates. White and red coral, ruby, emerald, black and white diamond bracelet. 2005
Tiger skin. Yellow sapphire and black diamond bracelet (2001). Right: Tigri Black diamond, yellow sapphire emerald and coral brooch. 2005 223 Tiger skin. Yellow sapphire and black diamond bracelet (2001)
Tiger skin. Yellow sapphire and black diamond bracelet (2001). Right: Tigri. Black diamond, yellow sapphire emerald and coral brooch. 2005
Pair of amethyst and diamond earrings (2001). Right: Olimpiadi. Yellow and white diamond, pink and blue sapphire, amethyst bracelet (1998)
Pair of amethyst and diamond earrings (2001). Right: Olimpiadi. Yellow and white diamond, pink and blue sapphire, amethyst bracelet (1998)
Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips (detail). 2001
Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips (detail). 2001
bracciale della valle
Pink tourmaline and pink sapphire ring (2010). Burmese ruby, pink sapphire and diamond bracelet (1999)
Sir Rosso Corsano de’ Marchesi dellaValle. Right:  Snoopy. A natural pearl, ruby and diamond pin. 1998
Sir Rosso Corsano de’ Marchesi dellaValle. Right: Snoopy. A natural pearl, ruby and diamond pin. 1998
King snake. Fancy intense yellow diamond and ruby necklace mounted in silver and gold. 1997
King snake. Fancy intense yellow diamond and ruby necklace mounted in silver and gold. 1997
Miky. Ruby and diamond bib necklace (1987). Right:  Sassi Rossi. Burmese cabochon rough ruby and diamond bracelet. 1989
Miky. Ruby and diamond bib necklace (1987). Right: Sassi Rossi. Burmese cabochon rough ruby and diamond bracelet. 1989
Katharine Hepburn in costume as Mary Stuart in the 1936 film «Mary of Scotland». Right: Piuma. White, grey and black diamond pin brooch mounted in zirconium and gold. 2006
Katharine Hepburn in costume as Mary Stuart in the 1936 film «Mary of Scotland». Right: Piuma. White, grey and black diamond pin brooch mounted in zirconium and gold. 2006
Otello. Ebony, multigem and diamond pin brooch. 2012
Otello. Ebony, multigem and diamond pin brooch. 2012
Rainbow. Multigem chain necklace. 2004
Rainbow. Multigem chain necklace. 2004
Kremlin. Emerald and diamond bangle mounted in silver and gold. 1987
Kremlin. Emerald and diamond bangle mounted in silver and gold. 1987
Lavender jade, cabochon ruby and diamond bracelet. 2002
Lavender jade, cabochon ruby and diamond bracelet. 2002
Fragoline (particolare). Pair of ruby and diamond earpendants mounted in titanium and white gold, 2006
Fragoline (particolare). Pair of ruby and diamond earpendants mounted in titanium and white gold, 2006
Flag. Ruby, sapphire and diamond necklace. 2009
Flag. Ruby, sapphire and diamond necklace. 2009
Perspex and diamond bangle (1997). Bakelite and diamond necklace (1993). Bakelite and diamond bangle (1993).
Perspex and diamond bangle (1997). Bakelite and diamond necklace (1993). Bakelite and diamond bangle (1993).
Spilla di diamanti e turchesi. A sinistra, Maria Callas
Spilla di diamanti e turchesi. A sinistra, Maria Callas
Ape. Yellow and black diamond and emerald brooch. 2003
Ape. Yellow and black diamond and emerald brooch. 2003
Brooch in titanium, carbonium fiber and white gold set with diamonds, spinels, pink sapphires and amethysts. 2007
Brooch in titanium, carbonium fiber and white gold set with diamonds, spinels, pink sapphires and amethysts. 2007

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