tourmaline

Everything about tourmaline

Everything you need to know about tourmaline, increasingly fashionable in jewelry ♦

You may have noticed it: for some years now tourmaline, and in particular the Paraiba variety has become the star of jewelry. Few, however, really know this stone, which can take on different colors and which is often confused with other gems. Tourmaline began its rise in the late 1980s, when the brightly colored variety was discovered in the mines of Paraíba, Brazil. These tourmalines, in blue and green shades, were immediately successful. Prices for this stone have risen rapidly to over $ 10,000 per carat. But, be careful: the red stones that are presented with the name of rubellite are also tourmalines.

Anello in oro bianco con tormalina
White gold ring with tourmaline, Vianna Lux collection

Composition. According to the chemistry, tourmalines are a crystalline composition of boron mineral silicate, with elements of aluminum, iron, magnesium, sodium, lithium, or potassium. It is a semi-precious stone. Before the name tourmaline became common, this gem was also called the Sri Lankan Ceylonese magnet. This stone, in fact, has pyroelectric properties: it forms a temporary accumulation of electric charges of different sign on opposite ends in response to a change in temperature. But don’t worry: the wearer doesn’t get shocked. In the past, however, thanks to this property, tourmalines have been used by chemists to polarize light.

Anello con tormalina Paraiba di 24,75 carati
Ring with 24.75 carat Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds

The name. Tourmaline is a word that derives from the Tamil and Sinhalese language Turmali, used for various precious stones found in Sri Lanka. In recent centuries, large quantities of tourmalines have been exported to Europe from the Dutch East India Company from this country to southern India.

Anello con tormalina rosa di 58,18 carati
Ring with pink tourmaline of 58.18 carats

Colors. Tourmaline takes on a great variety of colors. However, the stone discovered in the Brazilian states of Minas Gerais and Bahia is a unique variety with bright colors, blue and green. The largest in the world weighs 191.87 carats and has been included in the Guinness Book of Records. But there are also red, pink, blue tourmalines, and even a variety called watermelon, that is watermelon, with shades that fade from intense pink to olive green. There is also the bright green tourmaline from Tanzania, which contains chromium (the same mineral that colors the emerald). On the market there are also yellow tourmalines, sometimes known as canary tourmaline. Zambia is rich in red and yellow tourmalines, which are relatively inexpensive. By a strange coincidence, the rarest variety, the colorless achroite, is not appreciated and is inexpensive. Tourmalines are also found in Afghanistan and the United States. The deposits in Maine tend to produce mint-green or pink-raspberry red crystals. California deposits are known for a bright pink color, but also two-tone. The most common tourmaline, however, is called schorl, black colored sodium iron.

Anello Vuoi una mentina? Di Suzanne Syz, con tormalina Paraiba, oro, smalto, diamanti
Ring Do you want a mint? By Suzanne Syz, with Paraiba tourmaline, gold, enamel, diamonds

Beauty treatment. There are many tourmalines that are subjected to special treatments to improve their color. In particular, the pink and red colored buds are often heated at high temperatures to make the color more pleasant. For example, stones with a very dark red color can be made brighter with heat treatment. The pink color, on the other hand, can be significantly increased by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams. But radioactivity does not remain in the stone, rest assured. Among other things, you will never know: the irradiation process is almost impossible to detect in tourmalines and currently does not affect its value. Tourmaline varieties such as rubellite and Paraiba are also sometimes improved to make them clearer and brighter. But a tourmaline that undergoes this treatment is worth less than a natural gem of the same type.

Anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Daniela Villegas, Thalessa ring, in 18k rose gold, tourmaline, sapphires, two-tone tourmaline

Where is it. There is not only Brazil. In the late 1990s tourmaline containing copper was found in Nigeria. Tourmaline has also recently been discovered in Mozambique, very similar to that of Paraiba. For this reason, tourmaline from the African country is often called paraiba, but it is a mistake (sometimes desired): in reality the colors of the Mozambican stone are often a little less bright than the Brazilian one. In addition, African tourmaline also costs much less.

Una tormalina watermelon africana
An African watermelon tourmaline
Orecchini con al centro due tormaline watermelon dell'Himalaya
Earrings with two Himalayan watermelon tourmalines in the center
Van Cleef & Arpels, anello Pierres de Caractère Lotus d'Orient in oro bianco, tormalina ovale del Mozambico tipo Paraiba di 24.44 carati, diamanti taglio brillante e a pera, zaffiri tondi e chrysoprase scanalati
Van Cleef & Arpels, Pierres de Caractère Lotus d’Orient ring in white gold, 24.44 carats oval Paraiba-type Mozambique tourmaline, brilliant-cut and pear-cut diamonds, round sapphires and grooved chrysoprase
Anello di Stephen Webster con tormalina rosa all'asta online di Christie's. Stima: 7 mila euro
Stephen Webster ring with pink tourmaline
Anello con tormalina Paraiba di 48.27 carati
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline of 48.27 carats
Anello Pom Pom in oro rosa, con tormaline rosa di varie dimensioni, gradazioni e tagli e diamanti
Pom Pom ring in rose gold, with pink tourmalines of various sizes, gradations and cuts and diamonds
Jar, spilla appartenuta a Lily Safra con tormaline verdi e rosa a forma di papavero collegate da uno stelo di tormaline verdi taglio baguette attorcigliate su un diamante bianco taglio pera di 37 carati. Prezzo realizzato: 1 milione di euro circa
Jar, brooch belonging to Lily Safra with green and pink poppy-shaped tourmalines connected by a stem of baguette-cut green tourmalines twisted onto a 37-carat pear-cut white diamond

The design of Vram

The wearable sculptures of Vram, a Los Angeles jewelry brand with a Couture Award ♦ ︎
In 2018 he won one of the Couture Awards in the Best in Debuting category. But, to be honest, Vram Minassian was been a debutant just for the Wynn stage in Las Vegas, where the show took place. Because Vram, Maison of Los Angeles, debuted in 1985. The common thread of this brand has always been the search for a sophisticated, very modern and cool design. The ring awarded to Couture is an example: the volume is simple and at the same time refined, with the yellow gold that is interrupted in two ovals that show a surface paved with green tourmaline. And in 2023 Vram collaborated with Platinum Guild International for a special Chrona Butterfly ring, created for Las Vegas Couture.

Anello in oro con zaffiri viola per il Couture 2023
Gold ring with purple sapphires for Couture 2023

The choice is to offer jewelry that resemble small modern sculptures. But there are also collections that are inspired by elements of the body, for example the bones, as in the case of the Chrona Hypercuff bracelet reminiscent of the vertebrae line. Vram’s jewels are destined to have an ever-growing public: for many years the Maison has produced only unique pieces, on request, or for third parties. For the past few years, however, Vram has taken to the field with collections for a wider audience, even if selected. The recognition at the Couture Awards is a result.

Anello Eye of Chrona in oro 18 carati, argento rodiato, zaffiri verdi
Eye of Chrona ring in 18K gold, rhodium-plated silver, green sapphires, gray diamonds
Pendente Chrona in oro 18 carati
Chrona pendant in 18K gold
Anelli in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Rings in 18 carat gold and diamonds
Orecchini Chrona in oro 18 carati e zaffiri verdi
Chrona earrings in 18k gold and green sapphires
Anelli in oro 18 carati e smeraldi
Rings in 18 carat gold and emeralds
Anello in oro 18 carati e argento rodiato con diamanti brown e grigi
Ring in 18 carat gold and rhodium silver with brown and gray diamonds

Carol Kauffmann, Brazil with rigour

Art, architecture and a lot of Brazil in the colors and geometries of the jewels of Carol Kauffmann ♦ ︎
It is true that art and creativity have no passport, but it is equally certain that one’s background leaves indelible marks in a person. Even more so if this person is a jewelry designer. This is the case, for example, in the case of Carol Kauffmann, born in Brazil in a family of textile entrepreneurs. Difficult to imagine in gray fabrics and pastel colors. Brazil is lively, with strong colors, and above all with many colored stones that are mined in the mines of the great South American country. As in the jewels of the Shadow collection.

Orecchini in oro e smeraldi della collezione Shadow
Gold and emerald earrings from the Shadow collection

To this must be added the passion of Carol Kauffmann for travel, art, architecture, and even technology. All this mix becomes a style for jewelry that has not changed when the designer moved to New York. The gold and the different colored stones are composed with lively architectures, with a lot of personality, rigor and joy at the same time, with references to the art deco and even to the hieroglyphics of ancient Egypt. The average price of jewelry ranges between 5000 and 10000 dollars. Giulia Netrese

Orecchini in oro e smalto della Shadow collection
Gold and enamel earrings from the Shadow collection
Anello in oro giallo, acquamarina, smeraldi, tanzaniti, diamanti
Ring in yellow gold, aquamarine, emeralds, tanzanites, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo, acquamarina e diamanti
Earrings in yellow gold, aquamarine and diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo, zaffiri, ioliti, diamanti
Earrings in yellow gold, sapphires, iolites, diamonds
Anello in oro giallo, prasiolite e diamanti
Ring in yellow gold, prasiolite and diamonds
Pendente in oro giallo smeraldi, tanzanite, diamanti
Yellow gold pendant with emeralds, tanzanites, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo, tormalina rosa, diamanti
Earrings in yellow gold, pink tourmaline, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo zaffiro, topazio bianco
Sapphire yellow gold earrings, white topaz

The colorful Sutra butterflies

/




Butterflies with diamonds and colored stones by Sutra, symbol, memory, nature ♦ ︎

According to historians, the first butterflies depicted by man date back to the frescoes of 3,500 years ago in ancient Egypt. In short, butterflies have become a subject for art since the human race began its journey. A sign that colorful-winged insects have never lost their charm. So much so that, besides becoming subjects for paintings and sculptures, they were often transformed into jewels. Necklaces, earrings, pendants and rings in the shape of a butterfly, sooner or later, have attracted the attention of all the great Maison of jewelry.

Sutra proposes this classic theme with the Butterfly collection.

Sutra, Butterfly collection
Sutra, Butterfly collection

As is the style of the jewelery brand founded by Arpita and Divyanshu Navlakha, the Sutra butterfly rivals the most colorful butterflies. Butterflies are also a memory of Arpita’s youth in Mumbai. Diamonds are set together with emeralds, sapphires, aquamarines or tourmalines in a light design like the wings of real butterflies. In some cases, as in earrings, butterflies are divided into two: each wing on one ear. Or both wings are placed on a frame of white or pink gold.





Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti, tormalina paraiba e spinello
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti, tormalina paraiba e spinello

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Sutra Flying Ear Cuffs,   2 carats of diamonds,  13 carats of amethyst,  18K blackened and white gold
Sutra Flying Ear Cuffs,
2 carats of diamonds,
13 carats of amethyst,
18K blackened and white gold
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Sutra, collezione Butterfly, orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Sutra, collezione Butterfly, orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, tormalina paraiba e spinello
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, tormalina paraiba e spinello
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi e zaffiri
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi e zaffiri

Sutra Double Finger Emerald Buttery Ring,   3 cts diamonds, 4 cts emeralds 18K white gold
Sutra Double Finger Emerald Buttery Ring,
3 cts diamonds, 4 cts emeralds
18K white gold







Boucheron at the Tsar’s Court

Boucheron celebrates imperial Russia with a collection of jewels that would have loved by the Tsars ♦︎
Between France and Russia, before and after the October Revolution, there has always been a very close link. Escapeed aristocrats or revolutionaries in exile have found shelter in the tolerant Transalpine state, along with musicians and painters. In Russia the official language of the nobility was French, idiom used in the Tsar’s court and in the good society. The jewelery industry has also maintained a privileged channel between Paris and Moscow. Boucheron remembers it, with the Hunt Impérial jewelry collection. The luxury here walks on the soft, silent snowy surface that covers the big country, bridge between the West and the East, when the winter starts.
Boucheron, more, was the first French jeweler to open a venue in Moscow in 1897 when the tsars still reigned. Boucheron has revisited three of its main themes: Nature (the Lumiere de Nuit line describes the aesthetics of the Nordic landscape), Couture (Femmes Boréales idealizes the beauty of women’s of North), and Architecture (The Anneau d’Or is inspired by the imperial cities of Russia, Moscow and Saint-Petersburg). The pieces are extraordinary, starting with Baïkal, a necklace-corset with an oval aquamarine of 78.33 carats, woolen stones and cultured pearls, diamond paved, white gold. Other jewels, however, remind the snow crystals, or the onion domes of the Kremlin. Margherita Andorno



Composizione grafica con diversi pezzi di alta gioielleria Boucheron della collezione Hiver Impérial. Il grande flocon Impérial ha al suo interno orecchini con perle (gli occhi), un orecchino zon zaffiro (il naso), due orecchini Baikal (la bocca)
Composizione grafica con diversi pezzi di alta gioielleria Boucheron della collezione Hiver Impérial. Il grande flocon Impérial ha al suo interno orecchini con perle (gli occhi), un orecchino con zaffiro (il naso), due orecchini Baikal (la bocca)

Anello Boule de Neige, oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Anello Boule de Neige, oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca

BaÏkal, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina taglio a pera
BaÏkal, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina taglio a pera
Banquise, anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale e perle
Banquise, anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale e perle
Collier BaÏkal, in oro bianco, acquamarine, perle
Collier BaÏkal, in oro bianco, acquamarine, perle
Collier Lumière de Nuit in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Collier Lumière de Nuit in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Collier L'Anneau d'Or in oro bianco e diamanti
Collier L’Anneau d’Or in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia taglio cuscino, diamanti

Nevesta, collier in oro bianco e diamanti
Nevesta, collier in oro bianco e diamanti







Van Cleef & Arpels reveals its Secret

/

The secret of Van Cleef & Arpels in the Le Scret collection is a very high quality jewelery. And full of surprises ♦ ︎

The secret of Van Cleef et Arpels was well guarded: a collection of high jewelery, masterpieces which required until 275 days for a necklace. In all, the Le Secret collection has a hundred pieces, some of which conceal a secret in the secret. For example, a bird with colored feathers can open one of the two wings to unveil a small newborn. The top of a ring can be rotated to show a gold engraved band or hide other rings. A bracelet with butterflies can blink the wings to display the hands of a tiny watch. Secrets kept and unveiled, and so, concealed just to be shown with greater pleasure: surprise is not just in the overwhelming technique of the French Maison craftsmen, who have hidden phrases, quotations and dedications in the most striking spaces of jewels, but also in exuberant forms that have the jewels. In addition to the rich necklaces, composite rings, exuberant earrings, there are brooches that fall into that kind of chameleon jewelry, that is, that it takes shapes and colors of objects, plants or animals.
On the other hand, Van Cleef & Arpels’s has just invented the secret in jewelery, as in the case of the secret setting, a patented system that allows the stones to be stacked without any visible metal grippers.

Anello Labyrinthe, con un diamante giallo a taglio cuscino da 13 carati, onice, oro bianco e giallo, diamanti
Anello Labyrinthe, con un diamante giallo a taglio cuscino da 13 carati, onice, oro bianco e giallo, diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio Papillon, con-movimento meccanico a carica manuale. Uno smeraldo colombiano di 14,57 carati, oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, spinelli neri, onice e madreperla
Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio Papillon, con-movimento meccanico a carica manuale. Uno smeraldo colombiano di 14,57 carati, oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, spinelli neri, onice e madreperla
Colombe Mystérieuse. Spilla con rubini mystery setting, diamanti e smeraldi (gli occhi)
Colombe Mystérieuse. Spilla con rubini mystery setting, diamanti e smeraldi (gli occhi)
Anello Fleur Bleu, in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiro
Anello Fleur Bleu, in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiro
Spilla Cupido, con uno zaffiro arancione a forma di pera di 2,74 carati dello Sri Lanka, abbinato a uno zaffiro viola a forma di pera da 1,36 carati, una rubellite a forma di cuore di 12,04 carati, con diamanti e zaffiri
Spilla Cupido, con uno zaffiro arancione a forma di pera di 2,74 carati dello Sri Lanka, abbinato a uno zaffiro viola a forma di pera da 1,36 carati, una rubellite a forma di cuore di 12,04 carati, con diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l'opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell'onice
Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l’opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell’onice
Oiseau sur la branche, collana trasformabile con perle di rubini birmani
Oiseau sur la branche, collana trasformabile con perle di rubini birmani
Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l'ala dell'uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino
Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l’ala dell’uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino
The Séraphîta: un anello con zaffiro e diamanti che nasconde ben quattro segreti
The Séraphîta: un anello con zaffiro e diamanti che nasconde ben quattro segreti
Nello con rubellite, diamanti e zaffiri
Nello con rubellite, diamanti e zaffiri

Collier con diamanti e ametiste
Collier con diamanti e ametiste







Chaumet, here it’s the party

Chaumet in a festival music: four magnificent high jewelery lines ♦ ︎
High jewelery is a feast for the eyes, though not for the wallet. So there is one of the historic Place Vendôme Maison (born in 1780) celebrating the double. It is called Chaumet est une fête its new collection of high jewelery. But it is a four-time party, how many are the ones in which the collection is subdivided. Since it is alluded to a great social evening, the times are those used by great music. Dance music with the Valses d’Hiver or syncopated with Rhapsodie Transantlantique as the Rhapsody in Blue by Gershwin, respectful of the classic tradition with the Pastorale Anglaise (dedicated to the Glyndebourne Festival) or the world of the opera with Aria Passionata (inspired by La Scala Theater Milan).
The Pastorale, for example, explores reasons through the use of green color: obviously these are valuable emeralds of the Muzo, Colombia mines.

Chaumet, Aria passionata
Chaumet, Aria passionata

Complex jewelery masterpieces, delicate goldsmiths work and magnificent stones: it is enough to say that the Necklace of the Pastoral line costs about 2 million, while the average jewelry price is about 400,000 euros. Aria Passionata is, however, consistent with its name, a red suite of rubies, garnets, associated with pink gold and diamonds. The tenor and soprano tunes engaged in melodrama classics turn into bouquet-shaped pins (but not to be cast on stage as a performance tribute). Rhapsody in Blue uses white gold, diamonds, tanzanite, tourmaline, chrysoberyl: many different shades as you expect when listening to a music rhapsody. Finally, Valses d’Hiver is a dance around soft, refined, white gold, diamonds and pearls – light and turbulent as a step between stuccoes and the vaults of a frescoed salon. Giulia Netrese




Anello Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldo a cuscino verde brillante di 11.74 carati, smeraldi e rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Anello Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldo a cuscino verde brillante di 11.74 carati, smeraldi e rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Collier Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, grande smeraldo Muzo, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Collier Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, grande smeraldo Muzo, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
La collezione Pastorale Anglaise
La collezione Pastorale Anglaise

Orecchini Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti





Spilla Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, insieme con un rhodolite ovale di 22.51 carati, 2 rubini cabochon di 5,55 carati, un granato ovale, baguette e rotondo, rubino baguette e diamanti taglio brillante
Spilla Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, insieme con un rhodolite ovale di 22.51 carati, 2 rubini cabochon di 5,55 carati, un granato ovale, baguette e rotondo, rubino baguette e diamanti taglio brillante

Orecchini Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, rhodolite, rubini cabochon, granato, diamanti
Orecchini Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, rhodolite, rubini cabochon, granato, diamanti
Collier trasformabile Aria Passionata, lacca rosa e oro, 3 granati Rhodolite ovali di 16.28 carati, 14,25 carati e 10.96 carati, 3 rubini cabochon 6,25 carati, 4,89 carati e 3 15 carati, granato baguette rodolite, ovale e rotonda, rubini baguette, sfere di rubino, onice e diamanti
Collier trasformabile Aria Passionata, lacca rosa e oro, 3 granati Rhodolite ovali di 16.28 carati, 14,25 carati e 10.96 carati, 3 rubini cabochon 6,25 carati, 4,89 carati e 3 15 carati, granato baguette rodolite, ovale e rotonda, rubini baguette, sfere di rubino, onice e diamanti
Collana Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, morganite cuscino, crisoberillo ovale, topazio imperiale, tormalina rosa, diamanti di diverso taglio, granati Umba
Collana Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, morganite cuscino, crisoberillo ovale, topazio imperiale, tormalina rosa, diamanti di diverso taglio, granati Umba
Anello Rhapsodye Atlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti
Anello Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti
La collezione Rhapsodie Transantlantique
La collezione Rhapsodie Transantlantique
Diadema Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Diadema Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Chaumet, spilla Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Chaumet, spilla Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Chaumet, colelzione Valses d'Hiver
Chaumet, colelzione Valses d’Hiver