bobdil

Burma multicolor

The proposals by Burma, the French queen of bijoux: fake jewels that seem true ♦

About the twenties, in Paris, they have written many, Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and of course, the French authors. But several pages of the Jazz Age has also was been written by a Maison specializing in jewelry: Burma. In Paris is a synonym of jewelry created with elements that seem valuable, but they are in half. For example, vermeil (gold-plated silver), or cubic zirconia instead of diamonds. But Burma has specialized in this capacity to bring large pieces of jewelry without the need to use always real gemstones: its jewels are from nearly a century of valuable pieces with a zero in the least.

If a large ring with sapphires and rubies might cost, say, 20,000 Euros, by Burma with the same appearance it could cost 2,000 or 200.

Collana, bracciale, anello in oro bianco e burmalite
Necklace, bracelet, ring in white gold and burmalite

From Gaston Doumergue, who inaugurated the Maison, to Josephine Baker and the Folies Bergères, something has changed nowadays. For example, Burma invented and patented Burmalite, a synthetic stone, zirconium oxide, similar to diamond. But it costs a lot less and doesn’t look like an unnatural gem to an untrained eye. The colored stones of the Maison, with this material, are a real show. Seeing is believing.

Anello in argento rodiato con cristalli di burmalite gialla e bianca
Rhodium-plated silver ring with yellow and white burmalite crystals
Bracciale tennis in oro bianco 18 carati e burmalite bianca
Tennis bracelet in 18k white gold and white burmalite
Anello della linea Art Déco con cristalli di burmalite verde e bianca
Ring from the Art Déco line with green and white burmalite crystals

How to recognize the facets of a brilliant diamond

A quick guide to learning and recognizing the facets of a brilliant cut diamond

The brilliant cut diamond, round, is the most requested especially for the rings, but there are several aspects that it is good to know before buying one, or to learn more about what you already have. If you are interested in knowing how they are cut and what are the different points of a brilliant cut diamond, that is the classic round-shaped gem, you can first of all consider the ability to reflect light.

1 diamante taglio brillante
Brilliant cut diamond

A diamond must be perfectly cut to be able to fully reflect the rays of light that hit it. If a diamond is not cut symmetrically, for example, its brightness will also be altered. This is why the arrangement of the facets is important, and consequently how the light is reflected inside the stone. It is the reason why diamonds are cut in a precise way, which has evolved over time. The most common cut, the brilliant, that is, circular in shape, was codified only in the last century.

Diamond map
Diamond map

So a perfectly cut diamond will reflect better and be more beautiful. If you show that you know the most desired stone in the world well, you will make a great impression with your friends and, perhaps, you will be able to impress the jeweler who wants to sell you a ring. Who knows I won’t give you a discount …

Solitario con diamante taglio brillante e corona di piccoli diamanti
Solitaire with a brilliant cut diamond and a crown of small diamonds

Facets These are the flat surfaces that form the exterior of the diamond after cutting. Each facet is angled, shaped and cut to produce a particular lighting effect. Objective: to better reflect the internal crystalline structure of the diamond. Each type of cut (bright, cushion, pear and so on) produces different reflections. The refraction inside the diamond itself increases the shine and reflections in output towards the surface of the diamond.

Girdle It is the name for the widest part of the diamond, its circumference. That’s where the belt is measured. The common practice today involves also faceting the belt itself, even if the resulting surfaces are not included in the final count of the diamond facets.

Anello con diamante De Beers
De Beers diamond ring

Depth It is the height of the entire diamond. It is measured from the table to the lower tip (the culet). The depth of the diamond helps to set the ratios for cutting the gem. A diamond too deep in relation to its size will have a reflection that tends to be dark. On the contrary, a diamond that is too shallow will not be very bright.

Table. It is the widest facet of the diamond. It is located in the upper part of the diamond, and serves as the main point of entry and dispersion (fire) of light. But, of course, it must have the right proportions to capture the maximum light, but without reducing the surface of the lateral facets.

Il diamante da 102 carati taglio brillante
102 carat brilliant cut diamond

Diameter. The measure of the width of the diamond at its widest point (belt). Of course the diameter must be proportionate to the size of the stone.

Crown. The crown refers to the part of the diamond above the belt. It is the section of the diamond that goes from the widest point to the table.

Anello trilogy, oro bianco e diamanti taglio brillante
Trilogy ring, white gold and three brilliant cut diamonds

Pavilion. The pavilion is the counterpart of the crown, that is, the lower part of the diamond. The area that goes from the belt, or wider section, of the diamond to the bottom (or culet) is defined as the pavilion.

Culet. It is the bottom of the diamond, the smallest facet. The culet has a huge effect on the rest of the diamond: correctly cut, this part of the stone allows the light that has entered to exit effectively through the surface (the table) and dazzle with its reflections. A too large cut culet can cause a negative effect: if it reflects too much light it can have the effect of having a hole inside it. The culet, on the other hand, must be quite small. But it is not uncommon for a diamond not to have a pinnacle entirely.

Anello in platino punzonato Bulgari con un diamante old cut centrale di circa 3 carati, contornato da diamanti taglio brillante e baguette per altri circa 3 carati,
Ring in Bulgari hallmarked platinum with a central old cut diamond of approximately 3 carats, surrounded by brilliant and baguette cut diamonds for another approximately 3 carats
Anello di fidanzamento Venus in oro giallo e diamante sintetico taglio brillante
Alessa, Venus engagement ring in yellow gold and brilliant cut synthetic diamond
Anello Maglia, ispirato alle reti dei pescatori. Diamante a taglio brillante (1,01 carati EVS1), 104 diamanti (1,16 carati), oro grigio perla
Mesh ring, inspired by fishermen’s nets. Brilliant-cut diamond (1.01 carat EVS1), 104 diamonds (1.16 carat), pearl gray gold
Anello trilogy, oro bianco e diamanti taglio brillante
Trilogy ring, white gold and brilliant cut diamonds
Diamond map
Diamond map
tiffany
Sketch of Tiffany ring setting with diamond
Il diamante rosso De Young con taglio a brillante
The De Young Red Diamond
Orecchini con un diamante taglio circolare, del peso di circa 22,60 e 22,31 carati, e diamanti a forma di scudo, montati in platino. Stima: 7-10 milioni dollari
Earrings with a circular cut diamond, weighing approximately 22.60 and 22.31 carats, and shield-shaped diamonds, set in platinum

Short guide to diamonds

Do you know how to distinguish diamonds? What are the four Cs? How are the diamonds evaluated? Here is a quick guide to solve any doubts about diamonds ♦

Diamonds are the most precious stones. But how much are the diamonds of a ring, earrings or necklace really worth? They are all the same? How to recognize and judge them? Gioiellis.com helps you with this exclusive guide, which you can print and save. With a premise: understanding does not mean being able to make an assessment yourself. For a safe and definitive evaluation of a diamond it is better to contact an expert who can view the stone directly.

The Rock, diamante a forma di pera da 228,31 carati
The Rock, 228.31 carat pear-shaped diamond

WHAT IS A DIAMOND?
The substance is one of the many forms in which carbon can occur. In scientific terms, the diamond is constituted by a crystalline lattice of carbon atoms arranged according to an octahedral structure. The name derives from the ancient Greek ἀδάμας, that is, adámas, which means indestructible, just or even immutable.
Diamonds are the deepest material of our planet that has ever reached the earth’s surface and are considered an open window inside the Earth. A material that can not be obtained by any other means. Far beyond their economic value, they have a higher scientific value, because they are able to tell many things about the evolution of the Earth.

Diamanti grezzi
Rough diamonds

THE ORIGIN
The existing diamonds for 94% were formed between 1 and 3 billion years ago at depths between 150 and 200 kilometers, where the very pure carbon, subjected to enormous pressure, generated these stones of great charm. The remaining 6% of diamonds is even more interesting and originates in the “transition zone of the Earth”, between 660 and 2,900 kilometers of depth. They are called super-deep diamonds.

Medaglione Ellesmere, composto da 478 diamanti
Ellesmere medallion, composed of 478 diamonds by De Beers

FEATURES
The diamond is the prince of jewels thanks to the dispersion of white light in the colors of the spectrum, one of its main characteristics. The hardness of the diamond is its other peculiarity, which makes it useful for many industrial applications. Today the global production of rough diamonds is estimated at around 130 million carats (26 tons) per year, of which 92% is cut and polished in India, mostly in the city of Surat. After the first processing, about 85% of rough diamonds, 50% of cut diamonds, and 40% of those for industry are traded on the market in Antwerp, Belgium. The reason is that in the late Quattrocento in Antwerp a new technique was introduced to polish and give shape to the gems. There are more than 12 thousand cutters and polishers at work in the diamond district.

Diamanti
Round cut diamonds

SHORT HISTORY
Diamonds have been known for hundreds of years and have been used as decorative elements since ancient times: the first references have been registered in India. Today the most common use of diamond in jewelry is for the engagement ring, but few know that it is a fairly recent convention, which became popular in the first half of the twentieth century thanks to an advertising campaign by De Beers, the company leader in the diamond trade. More generally, however, diamond rings have been used at least since the fifteenth century to symbolize a commitment.

Anello Dôme di Buccellati, con diamante taglio smeraldo
Dôme ring by Buccellati, with emerald-cut diamond

THE EVALUATION
Diamonds are not all the same. To evaluate them they are classified according to four «C», taking into account the English language: carat (carat), cut (cut), color (color) and clarity. But there are also other characteristics: for example, the presence or absence of fluorescence, which can influence the choice in use for a piece of jewelry and value.

carati
The size of the carats (in proportion)

CARAT
Carat weight measures the mass of a diamond. One carat is 200 milligrams. The price per carat increases with weight, since the larger diamonds are rarer and more in demand as precious stones. In contrast, the value does not increase linearly in the same way with the dimension. For example, a diamond of 0.99 carats can have a much lower price (always per carat) than a 1.01 carat analogue: the difference is caused by the difference in demand.

I gradi di trasparenza del diamante
The degrees of transparency of the diamond

CLARITY
Clarity measures the internal defects of a diamond, called inclusions. Inclusions may consist of crystals of a foreign material, or structural imperfections, such as small cracks or, finally, as a whitish halo. The number, size, color, relative position, orientation and visibility of inclusions can affect the relative clarity of a diamond. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia) and other organizations have developed systems to define the degree of clarity, starting from inclusions that are visible to a professional with a diamond observed at ten magnifications. Only about 20% of all the diamonds extracted have a sufficiently high clarity score for use in jewelry. The other 80% is relegated to industrial use. Of that first 20%, a significant share contains one or more visible inclusions. Stones that do not have a visible inclusion are known as “eye-clean”, clean to the eye, and are obviously the favorite pieces. Attention, sometimes inclusions are hidden under the frame of a piece of jewelry: to find out, you should deconstruct the jewel to examine it. Most of the inclusions present in a diamond, in any case, do not affect the structural integrity of the gem. However, the so-called “clouds” of large dimensions can affect the ability of a diamond to transmit and diffuse light. And large cracks near the surface increase the possibility of a fracture.

Le sfumature del diamante
The nuances of the diamond

COLOR
What is the best color for a diamond? Simple: what is not there. In fact, the most precious variety of diamonds is totally colorless. Also in this case there is a classification, which should be certified by those who sell the jewel: the totally colorless diamond, therefore of the best quality, is classified as D. The next grade, certified with the letter E, has an almost invisible trace of color , which can only be observed by experts in a classification laboratory. The scale continues: even the F diamonds are almost transparent. The stones that, instead, show very small traces of color are classified as G or H. Again: the slightly colored ones are classified as I or J K and up to Z, with a bright yellow coloring. The latter, even if they are at the end of the scale, are however quite rare and therefore very appreciated. Diamonds with unusual coloring are sometimes labeled as fancy (fantasy). Some, like the pink ones, are very rare. The color of a diamond can be caused by chemical impurities and / or structural defects in the crystal lattice. Depending on the shade and the intensity, the color of a diamond can diminish or increase its value. For example, intense blue diamonds (like the one baptized by Hope) are remarkably precious. However, these are exceptional pieces. Most diamonds used as gems are fundamentally transparent, with a small tinge, or white diamonds. The most common impurity, nitrogen, replaces a small percentage of carbon atoms in the diamond structure and causes a yellowish or brownish color.

I tipi di taglio del diamante
Some diamond cuts

CUT
The cut of a diamond describes the way in which a diamond was formed and refined by its rough stone shape. In fact, it describes the processing quality and the angles to which it is cut and is often confused with the concept of form. The cut is not accidental: there are mathematical guidelines for determining angles and length ratios in order to reflect the maximum amount of light. The techniques for cutting diamonds have developed over hundreds of years. But the best results were obtained in 1919 by the mathematician and passionate of gems Marcel Tolkowsky: it is he who developed the brilliant, round cut, calculating the ideal shape to diffuse the light. The brilliant has 57 faces (polished), of which 33 on the crown (the upper part) and 24 on the pavilion (the lower half). The belt is the thin central part. The function of the crown is to refract light in the colors of the iris, while the function of the pavilion is to reflect light through the top of the diamond. The culet is instead the smallest surface in the lower part of the diamond: it should be of a negligible diameter, to avoid the loss of light from the bottom.

Il diamante battuto da Sotheby's per 13,8 milioni di dollari
Oval diamond sold at Sotheby’s for 13.8 million dollars

VALUE
If you want to be updated on the market price of diamonds you can follow the Rapaport Diamond Report (in English), which is published every week by Martin Rapaport, CEO of the Rapaport Group, in New York: it is considered the de facto reference point of the retail price. In the wholesale diamond trade, the term carats is often used to define a sale or purchase. For example, a buyer can place an order for 100 carats (20 g) of 0.5 carats (100 mg), with certain characteristics. In this case the Total carat weight (T.c.w.), ie the total carat weight is used to describe the total mass of diamonds or precious stones in a piece of jewelry. The “solitaire” diamonds for earrings, for example, are usually expressed in Tcw, indicating the mass of diamonds in both earrings and not of every single diamond. Tcw is also widely used for diamond necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry. A quick indication: look at the overall diameter. Typically a 1.0 carat round brilliant (200 mg) should have a diameter of about 6.5 mm. Mathematically, the diameter in millimeters of a round brilliant should correspond to about 6.5 times the cubic root of carat weight, of 11.1 times the cubic root of weight grams, or 1.4 times the cubic root of weight point. In short, to evaluate the true value it takes very precise instruments and a good eye.

Modella con collana composta da 374 diamanti bianchi e gialli
Graff, model with a necklace made up of 374 white and yellow diamonds

Gold and stones, De’ Lazzari’s successful marriage

De’ Lazzari Oro Addosso, the story continues with new jewels. ︎ 

After 40 years, the yellow metal continues to be at the center of De Lazzari Oro Addosso (means worn gold). The brand was founded in 1982 in Casale Monferrato (Alessandria), in the gold district of Valenza, and has never ceased to represent that type of jewelery that manages to combine a high, but not unattainable, level. In short, a quality compromise between fine jewelery and what is really possible to buy. The brand has thus managed to pass unscathed through fashions thanks to its transformation into an accessory that can always be worn, not only on special occasions, and winks at the world of fashion. And, precisely for this reason, experienced as a dress that can be changed lightly.

Anelli in oro, con prasiolite e due acquamarina
Gold rings, with prasiolite and two aquamarines. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gold and large colored stones are used alongside traditional diamonds.

Lina and Vittorio De Lazzari, therefore, continue on their path, with jewels with precise but also soft geometries, ready to be re-proposed in a different way season after season, mostly sold on international markets. Gold, diamonds, but also colored stones are the classic elements reworked according to the Maison’s own style, which brings with it a bit of the Eighties, as evidenced by the latest pieces offered.

Anelli in oro con prasiolite e acquamarina
Gold rings with prasiolite and aquamarine. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Oro Addosso, collana con tormalina, prasiolite, ametista, peridoto. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Oro Addosso, necklace with tourmaline, prasiolite, amethyst, peridot. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti
Hoop earrings in white gold and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco con ametista e diamanti
White gold ring with amethyst and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e tormalina di 10,25 carati
Ring in rose gold, diamonds and tourmaline of 10.25 carats

How to spend a little for a diamond ring

How to spend as little as possible on a diamond ring?

If you want to buy a ring, here are the tips not to spend too much and choose well. When you give at her an engagement ring or, in any case, an important jewel to your partner, girlfriend or wife, you don’t have to be stingy. A jewel lasts over time and is something that she will often look at, and think of you every time (or almost) she wears it. In short, it is better to put your hand in your wallet and choose well. Also, keep in mind that you are going to give (or buy) a precious object: it is a small investment that could become useful in case of difficulty. It will be easier to sell a ring with a beautiful diamond, of good workmanship, rather than a ring of a few euros or dollars.

Anello e orecchino della collezione Diva di Leo Pizzo
Ring and earring from the Diva collection by Leo Pizzo

This, however, does not mean being silly. A purchase can be done intelligently, because you have to spend your money well. So here is some advice on choosing a ring: how to get the most out of your budget and spend as little as possible. That is, spending the right amount without throwing money away. Because there are aspects that you need to consider when buying a diamond ring (but it also applies to another type of jewel). Here are three things to keep in mind.

Crieri, Firmamento collecction worn
Crieri, Firmamento collecction worn

1 The choice of metal. The classic 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold is the most used metal for rings. But if you want to spend less, well polished silver is a good alternative. Of course, bear in mind that it will need maintenance: it must be cleaned often, because it tarnishes more easily and tends to oxidize. And when it turns black or green, silver doesn’t make a good impression. An alternative is to choose a gold ring, but with a lower number of carats: you can go down to 9 carats, the minimum to still be considered gold. The price, in this case, is significantly lower. But it is still gold, even if in a smaller percentage than, for example, 18 carats. 9-karat gold is 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% other metals, such as silver or copper. An 18-karat gold ring, on the other hand, is 75% pure gold. But be careful: in reality, for a diamond ring, the cost of gold affects the total price relatively little, what really costs a lot is the weight of the stone. Another alternative to spend even less is to look for a designer ring that combines a precious stone with an inexpensive metal, such as steel. But in this case the design has to be really special.

Anello con solitario di Conte Diamonds
Conte Diamonds solitaire ring

2 The diamonds that cost less. Let’s say it right away: you shouldn’t choose poor quality stones. A certificate from a gemological institute, which is usually issued for stones weighing more than 0.3 carats, is a guarantee. Also remember the classifications of diamonds to choose well (you can find them here). But it is possible, however, to look for diamonds that are less expensive than others. For example, the brilliant cut (round) is the most used for solitaire rings, the classic engagement rings. However, it is also considered the most expensive cut. A diamond with a less frequent cut could save you up to 20% of the price compared to the brilliant. Two tips: the cushion cut or the Asscher cut yield a lot compared to the carat weight and are more convenient. Cuts such as marquise, oval or emerald can also be less expensive, always considering in proportion to the carat weight. Another tip: choose a weight that is not a simple number. For example, a 0.44 carat diamond will be a little cheaper than a 0.50 carat stone and will have the same effect on the eye.

Ring by Giorgio Visconti
Ring by Giorgio Visconti

3 The color of money. Money has a color when it comes to diamonds. If you want to spend a lot, choose colored stones: yellow, pink diamonds, up to red and blue ones if you have a bank account with nine zeros. Colored diamonds, so-called fancy, are impressive, but they are very expensive. But the colorless ones are also very expensive, especially brilliant cuts, if they are of good quality. However, there are diamonds that cost less than others. For example, the brown, champagne, gray, black ones (the heated ones, we explain it here). Their cost is up to 40% lower than the more transparent and colorless white diamonds. Also in this case, however, take into account the famous «4 Cs»: in addition to the color, the degree of clarity and the type of cut chosen also count. Again: if you want a colorless diamond at all costs, you can choose those classified as color G or H. Compared to those D, E or F, those G and H cost less and used on a jewel they are indistinguishable from those who are not a expert gemologist.

Anelli indossati con diamanti by Messika
Rings worn with diamonds by Messika

Where flies Anapsara

The Anapsara gold and diamond jewelry with mystical background.
You imagine if you enter into a jewelry store and listen to these words: “The larval stage of dragonflies lasts up to five years. It’s time. Are you ready for your transformation?”. If you can hear this sentence, you know that they are offering to you Anapsara jewelry, brand based in Antwerp, born in 2014 between the beaches of Ibiza. Despite its origin, however, Anapsara follows a philosophy that focuses on the aspect of spirituality. Gold and mysticism?

The founder of the brand, Eugenia Shekhtman, says she was inspired to create her own line of luxury jewelry after years of spiritual studies and Vedic practices.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, madreperla
Ring in white gold, diamonds, mother of pearl

To begin with, the word Anapsara is derived from the Sanskrit word Apsara, which means “she who moves through the water.” The collection’s logo, a dragonfly, was chosen for its beauty and meaning: the change in the perspective of self-fulfillment. And so Eugenia accompanies the presentation of its jewels with phrases like the one we mentioned at the beginning. In any case, also if you aren’t sensitive to the Indian mysticism or you dont love the gracefulness of the dragonfly, the Anapsara jewelry can also play a purely aesthetic function. In short, you can wear this jewels without thinking too much.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Ring in white gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto
Ring in rose gold, diamonds, enamel
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti neri
Ring in rose gold, black diamonds
Mono orecchino in oro rosa
Single earring in rose gold
Collana e pendente in oro rosa
Rose gold necklace and pendant
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamond earrings
Orecchini in oro e diamanti neri
Gold and black diamond earrings

Vak’s amazing jewels

The new jewels by Vak, the Indian Maison specializing in surprising high jewelery

Vak is the fruit of a family inheritance. Yet, even if it is inspired by the ancient, the tradition, the Maison of Mumbai founded by Vishal Kothari, focuses everything on innovation. A graduate of the Gia in New York, the Indian designer does not limit himself to designing fine jewelry, but emphasizes creativity guided by a technique that is often surprising. Also because he also dreamed of being a fashion designer, or a musician. Instead he has become a great jewelry signature. The diamonds that make up the petals are cut and mounted so that they are flexible, but at the same time firmly on a ring or a pair of earrings. Vak’s jewels are patiently awaited by a host of fans, who contain jewels produced with the dropper. Also because the Maison only creates around 120 unique pieces a year for its high jewelery collection.

Orecchini chandelier con diamanti
Chandelier earrings with diamonds

On the other hand, it is not easy to make jewelry like the Desert Rain Ring: a cloud of rose-cut diamonds that seems to fall on a brushed gold surface, like rain on sand. It is a shock cocktail ring but, they explain to Vak, it is in fact a desired promise, like rain in the desert. But, alongside pieces sold to collectors, Vak now also offers high-end jewelry, but sold through online platforms such as Moda Operandi. They are always jewels that cost several thousand dollars or euros, but are closer to the general public.

Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, su oro rosa spazzolato
Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, on brushed rose gold
Anello con diamanti e spinello burmese esagonale
Ring with diamonds and hexagonal Burmese spinel
Anello Arch of Heaven con diamanti e uno zaffiro burmese non scaldato
Arch of Heaven ring with diamonds and an unheated Burmese sapphire
Orecchini Architectural Splendor, con diamanti, spinelli e rubini birmani
Architectural Splendor earrings, with diamonds, spinels and Burmese rubies
Bracciale in oro rodiato nero, diamanti e smeraldo di 5,36 carati
Bracelet in black rhodium-plated gold, diamonds and emerald of 5.36 carats
Anello Elephant Pop con diamanti e rubini
Elephant Pop ring with diamonds and rubies
Orecchini Black Constellation in oro rodiato nero e diamanti
Black Constellation earrings in black rhodium-plated gold and diamonds
Orecchini Green Baroque con diamanti, oro rodiato brown, smeraldi dello Zambia
Green Baroque earrings with diamonds, brown rhodium-plated gold, Zambian emeralds
Orecchini Summero Bllom, con smeraldi intagliati e diamanti
Summer Bloom earrings, with carved emeralds and diamonds

Expert advice for buying diamonds

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf
Pio Visconti in golf attire

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and  cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti
Eternity wedding rings in diamonds

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values ​​of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Legends of Africa ring with white diamonds and emeralds

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of  engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made ​​in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby ​​usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced ​​thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms
6.41 carat unheated pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby set in an 18k yellow and white gold ring surrounded by diamonds, designed by Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of ​​green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti
Margot ring with pear-cut sapphire and diamonds

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo
Color stones: sapphire, ruby, rubellite and yellow sapphire

Jewelry like Easter eggs

Easter is a holiday that in the West is also synonymous with eggs. But eggs are not only an ingredient for typical dishes of this period. The oval shape has been used in the history of art as a symbol of rebirth, of motherhood, of a nature that is renewed. And it often occurs also in jewelery, in particular the precious eggs produced by Fabergé are famous. The great Russian jeweler, whose brand has been back to life for a few years (since 2012 he joined the Gemfield group), has produced 50 imperial eggs, created especially for the tsars.

Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch diventa un uovo su un nido d'oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall'antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese
Brooch by Anna Hu. The Chinese Blue and White Magpie motif is crafted in titanium and 18k white and yellow gold, with a pavé of over 500 gems, delicate white gold tree branches set with diamonds and Paraiba tourmaline. A pearl conch becomes an egg on a yellow gold nest. The piece was inspired by the ancient blue and white flower and bird pattern on a circle-shaped porcelain plate in the National Museum of History in Washington, D.C., as well as the works of Giuseppe Castiglione, a Jesuit missionary and painter of the Chinese imperial court

Today they are worth millions, they are often kept in museums and rare private collections around the world. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, opened in 2013, houses the famous first egg which was owned by Empress Feodorovna. Seven imperial eggs, however, are actually still missing. But if Fabergé eggs are famous, and continue to be produced as jewels under the new management, there are also others in jewelery. Some others eggs are very gorgeous, such as the gold brooch signed by Cartier, while other eggs are less refined jewels, but still suitable to be combined on Easter day.

Uovo con gemme di Kristen Malan
Egg with Gems by Kristen Malan

Of course, we don’t necessarily have to stop at a simple jewel. Why not celebrate Easter with an oval cut diamond? Diamonds with this shape, in reality, are not exactly similar to a natural egg, but they are symmetrical. The two longer areas, therefore, are perfectly identical. The same goes for other gems cut with the oval shape. Oval cut diamonds are considered to be some of the most elegant and, when set on a ring, tend to make the fingers appear longer and tapered – something to consider.

Anello con diamante ovale di oltre 43 carati
Ring with oval diamond of over 43 carats

Decorating eggshells is an idea that has its roots in humanity. Ostrich eggs decorated and engraved 60,000 years ago have been found in Africa. In the pre-dynastic period of Egypt and the early cultures of Mesopotamia and Crete, eggs were associated with death and rebirth, especially if large in size. Ostrich eggs decorated with gold and silver were placed in the tombs of the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians 5,000 years ago. This tradition may have influenced early Christian and Islamic cultures in those areas, as well as through mercantile, religious and political ties from those areas around the Mediterranean, to being used by jewelry.

Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, composta da 206 perle di smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti rotondi e con taglio princess by Fabergé
Necklace in 18k rose gold, composed of 206 Zambian emerald pearls, round and princess cut diamonds by Fabergé
Nido composto a mano con un uovo d'oro e due uova di porcellana
Tiffany, handmade nest with a golden egg and two porcelain eggs
rina limor
Rina Limor, silver earrings with sapphires
Bibi van der Velden, orecchini in oro e avorio di mammuth
Bibi van der Velden, gold and mammoth ivory earrings
Raro uovo per lo zar Alessandro firmato Peter Carl Fabergé
Rare egg for Tsar Alexander signed Peter Carl Fabergé
Pendente di Jean-Schlumberger per Tiffany, con oro e diamanti
Pendant by Jean-Schlumberger for Tiffany, with gold and diamonds
Pendente di Fabergé con diamanti, smeraldi e acquamarina
Fabergé pendant with diamonds, emeralds and aquamarine

Giuseppina Fermi maverick

Jewels that are inspired by the Renaissance, with natural stones: it is the style of Giuseppina Fermi.
What can be your fate if your father leaves for China and imports ancient art and jewelry? And what if he then becomes a gemologist and jeweler? The answer, for Giuseppina Fermi, who passed away in 2017, was almost obvious: the world of jewelery is her world. Today carried on by her daughter, Ambra Fermi Pylinski. Pietro, his father, was also one of the pioneers in using fancy diamonds, while his wife founded one of the first jewelery shops. With these premises Giuseppina merged the teachings of her father and mother to create her line which she defines as going against the grain. In the sense that she does not embrace the minimal, geometric and essential philosophy which is the most used by young designers, but remains anchored to a sort of Renaissance-Baroque festival composed of putti, little angels, curls, gilding, symbols.

Ciondolo con la forma di angelo
Pendant in the shape of an angel

All together with natural stones, pearls, silver and gold. Although her activity is decentralized compared to those of other Maison: working, in fact, between Piacenza, her city, and Porto Rotondo, a sea town in Sardinia in summer is crowded with tourists famous, rich or both things together. Prices: The range is quite varied. It starts from a hundred euro for a pendant, up to more than 4,000 for a silver ring in rhodium-plated white gold, fluorite, gold, diamonds.

Orecchini in argento con cubic zirconia
Silver earrings with cubic zirconia
Anelli a forma di farfalla
Butterfly-shaped rings
Orecchini in bronzo con cubic zirconia
Bronze earrings with cubic zirconia
Ciondolo con perla barocca
Pendant with baroque pearl

How to evaluate the pavé of your jewels

Can you realy judge the pavé of your jewel? Pavé is the most used technique in jewelry, but few really know how it is made. Read how to evaluate the pavé stones on your jewels ♦

There are jewellery composed of gems so close to each other that it seems a continuous surface: is the effect of a pavé done perfectly, which transforms a flower, an insect or any shape in an object of unique harmony. The outcome is the result of many hours of work and great skills. Of course, recognize the best one is not difficult, just a certain sensitivity, but understand why it is so special makes the experience even more satisfying. Here a few examples of fine jewelry to get to know this technique: basically learn a bit more also helps to make better choices and make an informed purchase.

Plumettes, bracciale in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti by Dior
Plumettes, white gold and diamond pavé bracelet by Dior

The technique

Conical holes are dug in the metal where insert the stones, that are subsequently blocked (set) with tiny balls obtained engraving with a chisel (scorper) the excavated material on the sides of the stone. It is clear that it is a job, the one done handmade by the jewel setter, very neatly. The shortest distance between stones requires greater skill and care, which increase the cost of production. Vice versa wider spaces filled with these tiny balls indicate the opposite. But not only: the throng around the stone often provides an effect of overall confusion that the experts define by the word dirty.

Michele della Valle, spilla con pavé di zaffiri La Rose de Bourbon
Michele della Valle, La Rose de Bourbon sapphire pavé brooch

The Tubetto collection by De Grisogono is a textbook example: the blacks diamond of the ring below, although of different dimension, are all on the same level. It is the ability of the stone setter to ensure that larger gems not protrude too much and small ones remain in evidence, and that requires the groove depth must be calculated to the nearest millimeter, operation even more difficult when they are of different sizes. Moreover, the tiny balls that hold the stones are nearly invisible in pictures like this where the object is much zoomed.

Anello Tubetto con diamanti neri della ormai scomparsa Maison svizzera de Grisogono
Tubetto ring with black diamonds from the now closed Swiss Maison de Grisogono

Here two more examples of admirable invisible setting, the Camaleonte by Vhernier and the American flag earrings by Michele della Valle. Getting this kind of quality is much more difficult with colorless diamonds on white gold, because with colored stones, if the base is good, you can improve the pavé by coloring the metal. Furthermore, in these two cases the pavé is continuous, does not have metal slabs that circumscribe it, but wraps the setting. Detail which increases the difficulty and the execution time.

Vhernier, spilla Camaleonte con pavé di diamanti bianchi, sugilite, giada nera, opale arlecchino, cristallo di rocca
Vhernier, Chameleon brooch with pavé white diamonds, sugilite, black jade, harlequin opal, rock crystal
Michele della Valle, orecchini american flag con zaffiri, spinelli e diamanti
Michele della Valle, American flag earrings with sapphires, spinels and diamonds

Below is interesting to note the elegance of details: the tiny balls are in yellow or black gold depending on the color of the stones; in the second image instead, a mixed technique: the points on plate (cylinders applied on the metal instead of balls engraved with chisel) in the center and pavé on the sides.

De Grisogono dettaglio ciondolo
De Grisogono, detail of a pendant

Other examples of high all Italian handicraft: Drapes ring by Palmiero with stones of equal size despite the drape, and the Pom Pom bracelet by Pomellato.

Palmiero anelli Drapes
Palmiero, Drapes rings
Pomellato, bracciale PomPom
Pomellato, PomPom bracelet

Finally, always from Pomellato an example of pavé of line Sabbia, where seems that in the design phase at computer the space required to place the stones and tiny balls are pointed out without having to perform by hand  to get this precise effect. Monica Battistoni

Pomellato, anello Sabbia
Pomellato, Sabbia ring

How to clean silver jewelry

How to remove the patina that tarnish your silver jewelry and black that is formed on the surface with four quick moves.

Your silver jewelry that they have become blacks? Here’s how to make shiny and beautiful your silver jewelry. It is not difficult, just follow the instructions of this tutorial, which can also be used for other items made with white metal. First, because we see the jewels are ruined: the fogging occurs when the surface of the jewel silver is combined with sulfur, a substance that can be contained in the air (in particular, where there is more pollution) and transforms the metal into sulphide silver, which has the black color. But fortunately to eliminate fogging and black it is not difficult.

1 Hot Water

Cup of hot water, but not too much
Cup of hot water, but not too much

The first thing to do to clean the blackened silver is pour two cups of hot water, but not boiling, in a bowl. The water should cover the jewel (or jewels) completely.

2 Pour salt

 Spoon of salt
Spoon of salt

Pour in the water a tablespoon of coarse salt. The salt acts as a mild cleanser that removes oxidation without the risks a silver abrasion. Stir gently until the salt is dissolved completely. The amount of water must be proportionate to the number of jewels to clean. This method of cleaning is very delicate, but if the jewelry there are very expensive stones (even if it is difficult with the silver), it is preferable to bring the jewel from a professional, you never know. Alternative: Instead of salt you can use baking soda.

3 Aluminium sheet

Aluminium sheet
Aluminium sheet

Here comes the best part: after adding salt, you must put into the water a aluminum foil cut in strips, of those that are used in the kitchen to store food. The combination of salt and aluminum reacts tarnishing of silver and creates a bright shiny surface. This is because the silver sulfide reacts with the aluminum placed in a saline solution. The chemical reaction which takes place converts the silver sulphide in pure silver. You must control before the water is still hot. Leave to soak the jewelry for about 5 minutes. If silver is very tarnished you can repeat the process until the metal back perfectly bright.

4 Rinse the jewelry

Do not forget the last thing to do: move the jewelry under cold running water to remove the salt. Finally, dry the jewelry with a soft cloth or microfiber towel.

Pulizia dell'argento con un foglio di alluminio
Cleaning silver with aluminum foil
Un bracciale in argento che si è ossidato
An oxidized silver bracelet

The 10 most worn rings

Which ring to choose? Each shape of this jewel has its own meaning and its own name. Read what are the 10 kind of rings most worn and what they symbolize ♦

There are many types of rings: there are not only those for engagement or marriage. The shape of a ring also depends on which finger of the hand to wear it or on which occasion is more appropriate, because many types of rings also have a symbolic meaning. Not surprisingly, jewelers offer their rings with a precise definition, such as eternity, trilogy, solitaire, cocktail … Here are the 10 most requested ring models and what the different shapes of this jewel mean.

Anello in oro rosa con calcedonio della Namibia
Rose gold ring with Namibian chalcedony

1 Solitaire. It is the most popular and popular engagement ring: it has a diamond mounted on its own, with no other stones around it, on a metal band. Symbolic meaning: one diamond, one love. The stem can be in gold, most of the time white, or platinum, very rarely in silver or titanium. The solitaire ring symbolizes the commitment of a woman who agrees to marry the man who gives her the jewel. But, worn over time, it remains the sign of exclusive love. The solitaire can also be worn after marriage, together with the wedding band.

Tiffany Harmony, anello solitaire
Tiffany Harmony, solitaire ring

2 Eternity. Ring with a metal band (usually white gold) and a continuous line of gems (usually diamonds, but they are also offered with different stones, such as emeralds, rubies or sapphires). As the name indicates, eternity symbolizes love that never ends. It is a ring often given by a husband to his wife on an anniversary, usually after ten years of marriage. If the diamonds set do not follow the entire circumference, but only a part (also to make it more comfortable to wear), it is also defined as half-eternity. But in this case the concept is the same: eternal love (and even a minor expense).

Anello Live Diamond con diamanti prodotti in laboratorio
Live Diamond eternity ring with laboratory-produced diamonds

3 Wedding ring. It is the classic wedding ring, the most used. It is characterized by a usually smooth metal, most often yellow gold. The width is variable, it depends on your tastes. The ring offers the possibility to engrave the wedding date or the name of the wife or husband inside. Introduced by the ancient Romans, the wedding ring symbolizes the commitment made to marriage. The wedding ring is generally worn on the left hand on the ring finger, while in Central-Eastern Europe, and also in the Iberian Peninsula (except Catalonia), it is used to put it on the right.

Read also On which finger to wear the ring

Anello di Damiani con piccolo diamante all'interno
Damiani ring with small diamond inside

4 Toi et Moi. It is a ring with two similar, but not necessarily the same, stones set facing each other. A contrast, but also a union of two different personalities, which complement each other. It is a ring that symbolizes a close relationship between two people. Giving this ring as a gift is a bit like saying: always carry me with you. It is also a ring that allows designers and jewelers to test their imagination: rings of this type can be made with two simple stones, or with the choice of bold combinations.

Anello in oro bianco toi et moi con diamanti
Toi et moi white gold ring with diamonds by Shay

5 Phalanx ring. This ring has a smaller diameter than a normal ring: in fact, it is worn on the first or second phalanx of the finger. Used in antiquity, it is back in fashion now. But you need to pay attention to the size: it must be the right size so as not to risk losing it. It is usually very thin, light, often made of metal only, without stones.

Anelli firmati Ella
Rings signed Ella

6 Trinity. Ring designed by Cartier in 1924 and heavily imitated. It consists of three different metal bands of different colors and with different symbologies: pink gold indicates love, yellow gold is chosen as a sign of fidelity (because it recalls the wedding ring) and, finally, white gold signals friendship. The three metal bands intersect to form a single ring. Much appreciated especially by young people. It is also proposed with some variations, for example, with the use of stones set in the metal.

Trinity ring di Cartier
Trinity ring by Cartier

7 Trilogy. Not to be confused with the trinity ring. The trilogy ring indicates a metal band with three stones mounted, usually diamonds. It looks like a solitaire ring, but multiplied by three. The meaning? Well, if you search on Google you will find quite a few. But the real thing is: my dear, I can’t spend on one large diamond ring, but with three small ones I get (almost) the same effect. And that’s right.

Anello trilogy di Recarlo
Recarlo trilogy ring

8 Ring with secret. In fashion in the Middle Ages (they were also used to hide poison), they are now small and complex works of art. This type of ring came back into fashion in the Victorian era, because the secret compartment could be used to hold a message, a small portrait of the lover, or a symbol. It sounds unbelievable, but at that time there were no messages on Whastapp. They are bulky rings and the secret compartment today often reserves surprises.

Anelo con segreto di Theo Fennel
Ring with secret by Theo Fennel

9 Cocktail ring. Born during the years of Prohibition in the United States, these were worn by women at banned alcohol-based parties. Large, showy, with colored stones, they are afternoon or early evening rings. They symbolize, as the name indicates, the desire to have fun and a little to transgress. Given the size and bright colors, however, they are not easy to match with the dress.

Read also The secrets of the cocktail ring

Jacob, anello cocktail
Jacob, cocktail ring

10 Halo. The name indicates a ring with a diamond or other central stone and a crown of smaller gems around it. It is a gimmick of jewelry designers that serves to increase the visual impact of the stones, without having to resort to a larger and more expensive gem. It is a type of setting widely used for both demanding and less expensive rings.

Blue NIle, halo ring
Blue Nile, halo ring

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

All About Platinum

Want to buy a platinum ring? Here is what you need to know about platinum, one of the most precious metals used in jewelry, particularly for rings. And so, it’s better gold or platinum? ♦

“Do you prefer gold or platinum?”. It is one of the classic questions that usually hear who goes by the jeweler to buy a ring, in particular for the engagement or marriage. Who is not an expert you end up choosing the least expensive metal: gold. But to know the characteristics of what is the most rare and noble material, platinum, could lead to making a different choice.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, art deco style bracelet in platinum, diamonds and onyx

Features. The name platinum is derived from the Spanish word platina, which is literally translated into “little silver.” It’s very rare. And so it is also much more expensive than gold. It comes together with nickel and copper minerals, mainly in South Africa, where it is concentrated 80% of world production. Platinum is one of less alterable metals: has outstanding corrosion resistance, even at high temperatures, and is therefore considered a noble metal.

La corona realizzata per la regina Elisabetta , moglie del re Giorgio VI, la Regina madre: ha la cornice in platino
The crown made for Queen Elizabeth, wife of King George VI, the Queen Mother: it has a platinum frame

Platinum and jewelry. Platinum is used in jewelry for its lasting and elegance. It is soft, pliable and easy to work, but it is also strong and durable. For this, for example, it is very appreciated in jewelry to containing precious stones: the jaws platinum are more secure than those in gold. Also, the color goes well with the purity of diamonds. It’s often used in alloys with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium, but in this case should be reported. If you buy a platinum jewel beware that has the symbol ‘Plat’: means that platinum is a purity of 95%.

History. Platinum was already known by the ancient Egyptians: historians have established that a priestess commissioned a craftsman platinum hieroglyphics on her sarcophagus. And today, after 2500, the designs are perfectly intact. Even King Louis XVI (end of 1700) loved the platinum jewelry. And some of the most famous diamonds in the world were placed in a platinum structure, such as the Hope diamond.

Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platinum and diamonds

How do you clean platinum? Although platinum is a particularly resistant metal, it is necessary to provide for cleaning from time to time. The best method is always to dip the ring or bracelet in a bowl with hot, but not boiling water, in which you have melted a few drops of neutral liquid soap. After leaving the jewel to soak for ten minutes, rinse, and then gently rub (especially if there are also stones) with a toothbrush with soft bristles. Then, dry with a microfibre cloth: cotton or wool can leave residues attached to the jewel if it is not perfectly smooth. Another method is to soak the platinum jewel in a container of water with the addition of sodium bicarbonate. After a few minutes, pour half a glass of vinegar: for the reaction, water will start producing bubbles. After 10 minutes rinse the jewel in cold water.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting
Cartier, solitario in Platino e diamanti
Cartier, solitaire in platinum and diamonds
Luois Vuitton: fede in platino della collezione Empreinte, ispirata ai chiodi dei bauli con solitario incastonato. Prezzo 1890 euro
Louis Vuitton: platinum wedding ring from the Empreinte collection, inspired by trunk nails with a solitaire set
Bracciale di platino con diamanti e rubini venduto per 149mila dollari
Bracelet with diamonds and rubies
Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds circa 1950

The secret of Asscher house

The diamond jewels of the Asscher dynasty, which gaves its name to one of the most famous types of cut of the most precious stones ♦

Many know Asscher because it is also the name of a particular cut of diamonds. But the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, a Dutch company founded in 1854 by the Asscher family, also produces jewelery, which obviously make extensive use of diamonds. Do you think that the headquarters of the company is still the original one, in Tolstraat street, in Amsterdam. In the jewels there are the elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, which gave life to the Art Nouveau style, and then evolved into the Art Deco. Really regal pieces of jewelry. On the other hand, it is named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was conferred the honor of royal supplier by Queen Juliana. And in 2011 Queen Beatrice perpetuated the prefix “Royal” for another 25 years.

Orecchini Pavo con diamanti taglio Asscher
Pavo earrings with Asscher cut diamonds

Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. It became famous in the early 20th century for the work of Joseph and Abraham Asscher, and became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was awarded the Royal Dutch Predicate by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company’s importance in the Netherlands and worldwide.

Orecchini con diamanti per 1 carato con taglio Asscher
1 carat Asscher cut diamond earrings

The Asscher cut was born in 1902, invented by Joseph Asscher, who patented this special shape for the diamond. It was also the world’s first patented diamond cut. The original design featured 58 stepped facets and a steep pavilion with cut corners. Basically, it is an emerald cut diamond, but square and with cut corners. The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewelry, with its straight lines and faceted arrangement making it perfect for clean, graphic elements brought to life by movement.
Riproduzione della corona reale britannica, esposta nella sede di Asscher, con il grande diamante Cullinam
Reproduction of the British royal crown, exhibited in Asscher, with the large Cullinam diamonds

The history of the company is linked to some extraordinary diamonds: the Excelsior of 997 carats, one of the largest diamonds found. In 1903 Abraham Asscher divided the stone into ten diamonds to minimize defects (some inclusions). The diamond Excelsior is finished (but it is unknown if it is a merit) to be worn as a pendant from the bra, during the 2003 Victoria Secret Fantasy Bra show, worn by Heidi Klum. A complete intimate of about 13 million dollars. Another historical diamond is the Cullinan, discovered in 1905, of 3,106 carats (621.2 g). The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, who invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss how to cut the stone. Joseph Asscher divided the Cullinan into three parts. Then there are nine large stones: the largest is 530.20 carats (106.040 g), the Cullinan I. It is part of the jewels of the British crown.

[caption id="attachment_85020" align="aligncenter" width="709"]Anelli di fidanzamento della Maison Asscher Engagement rings from the Maison Asscher

A curiosity: during the months of the coronavirus epidemic, Mike and Lita Asscher decided they wanted to help fight covid-19 by creating a mask that printed the image of Asscher diamonds. The mask is made of non-medical fabric and is sold online: the profits were destined for scientists at the LUMC (Leiden University Medical Center).

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti
Yellow gold and diamond earrings
Anello con diamante taglio ovale
Ring with oval cut diamond
Anello con diamante taglio Asscher
Ring with Asscher cut diamond

Ingo Henn, luxury and surprises

Stones, volumes, romanticism and rationality: the jewelry of Ingo Henn with his Henn of London ♦

Ingo Henn belongs to the category of those who wanted to design jewelry since childhood. Not only that: as a child he loved the big colored stones. And he made it a profession. The designer, of German origin, but transplanted to London, uses precious stones with unique colors. Let’s face it all: it is the son of Hans-Jürgen Henn, one of the main gem dealers. As a good German, Ingo has done things right: he studied the profession of goldsmith (gemmology has learned at home), has traveled, has known techniques and designers at the highest level.

Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino
Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino

In the mid-nineties he decided to have learned what was necessary and founded his brand in the jewelery district of Hatton Garden, in London. The jewelry is right next to the offices of the company that trades in gems. Germanic rationality. But this does not prevent Ingo Henn from developing some of the most romantically eclectic jewels of our century, with his Maison, Henn of London. Precious stones of refined color and quality, but combined with a precious design for the combination of colors and surprising use of volumes. His jewels are unique pieces, designed around the color and type of stone used.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati

How much are black pearls worth?

The precious black pearls: have you heard of them? Read how to recognize them and how much they are worth ♦

To indicate something of value is said to be as precious as a pearl. But if the pearl is black, the value increases. In fact, not all pearls are white: the black ones (also known as Tahitian pearls) are very valuable. Actually they are not really black, but only darker in color, tending to gray. They are the fruits of the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk that lives Indo-Pacific Ocean at the latitude of the Tropics.

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Necklace with Tahitian pearl and diamonds

Black pearls are found in many shades, metal color, many shades of gray (who knows, maybe 50 …), but also green peacock (they are considered particularly valuable), or to purple, like eggplant, and brown dark. The color depends on the minerals that the clam has ingested contained in the plankton, the food of oysters. In the cultivation of pearls, however, they are using dye or irradiation to improve or change their color. But do not expect to identify them: it is difficult to pick a natural pearl from a treated. As for gems, pearls also have values ​​(and costs) different.

The name of these pearls is, of course, linked to the place where they are grown, ie mainly around the islands of French Polynesia, near Tahiti.

Yoko London, Aurora necklace
Yoko London, Aurora necklace

The value of pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of brightness, color, size, lack of surface defects and symmetry. A perfectly round bead is considered more precious, while elongated drop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants. Another aspect to consider is the shine, which is an important element of differentiation of the quality of the pearl.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Assael, ring from the Bubble collection with Tahitian pearls

So, how much are Tahitian black pearls worth? As we said, it really depends on the size and quality. Also, there are pearls out there that are simply colored black. A not too long necklace with a string of real black pearls can have a value ranging from a few hundred euros or dollars, if made up of smaller and lower quality ones, up to a few tens of thousands of euros/dollars if the pearls have a good sheen, are natural and have a regular spherical shape.

If you have jewels with pearls of this color, treat them with care: pearls are delicate and can deteriorate if not treated well. In any case, if you want to know how to clean jewels with pearls, we advise you to read the article we have already published and which explains in detail what you need to do to keep jewels with pearls clean, but without damaging them.

Collana di perle di Tahiti, oro giallo, lapislazzuli
Tahitian pearl necklace, yellow gold, lapis lazuli

How to distinguish a black Tahitian pearl from an imitation, fake? In fact, online there are extraordinary offers of jewelry with low price Tahitian pearls. These are most likely colored freshwater pearls. Unfortunately, from the images on the web it is not easy to distinguish real Tahitian pearls from imitations. Colored pearls, however, usually have a uniform hue, while real pearls tend to have color variations on the surface. Furthermore, often the color used to make the pearls black is concentrated more near the small hole where the thread that binds the pearls passes. Then, look with a loupe if the hole in the pearl looks darker than the rest.

Tahitian pearls are judged based on a strict classification. Here it is:

1 Shape: if is more round on a regular basis, plus the pearl is appreciated.

Perle nere
Black pearls

2 Size: bigger is better.

Necklace with Tahitian pearls
Necklace with Tahitian pearls

3 Surface: it is preferred that very smooth, with no flaws.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

4 Luster: if he shines the most valuable.

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti
Ring with black Tahitian pearl with violet hue and diamonds

5 Nacre: more the pearl is thicker, it will last over time.

Anello in argento con perla tahitiana
Silver ring with Tahitian pearl

6 Color: the most popular colors are peacock green, or shades tending to blue, pink, gold, silver, purple eggplant.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Dawn ring, in black gold, diamonds, Tahitian pearls, garnets and citrines

The precious leaves of Michael Aram

Handcrafted worked metal and colored stones in jewelery by Michael Aram ♦ ︎

In Hindi, the word aram means “sweetness, peace, love, and care.” If this is Michael Aram’s mood, it is uncertain. In any case, he emphasizes this semantic affinity. Michael Aram is an American designer and artist, born in New York, where he works. At the end of the 1980s he traveled to India and this trip changed his life: he discovered the tradition of metalworking and created a home and laboratory in New Delhi. From there, the business continued and Aram founded a company that produces home design items. Furniture, design, but craftsmanship. But it also offers jewelry.

Orecchini in argento rodiato nero, oro, diamanti
Earrings in black rhodium-plated silver, gold, diamonds

The passion for ancient traditions has been linked to an entrepreneurial spirit that has transformed it into a signature in its field. But after a few years, Michael Aram has expanded his business to jewelry as well. Of course with collections that have hand-crafted metal their fulcrum. Not only that: Micheal Aram’s jewels, which also appeared at Couture 2017 in Las Vegas, make a large use of precious stones and precious stones, as in the Botanical Leaf collection. This is something that the Indian likes too much.

Collana con perle grigie, ametrine, zaffiri viola
Necklace with gray pearls, ametrine, purple sapphires
Anello in oro, argento rodiato nero e diamanti
Ring in gold, black rhodium-plated silver and diamonds
Anello Butterfly Ginko in oro, argento e diamanti
Butterfly Ginko ring in gold, silver and diamonds
Orecchini Butterfly Ginko in oro, argento e diamanti
Butterfly Ginko earrings in gold, silver and diamonds
Anello Butterfly Ginko, in argento, oro, diamanti
Butterfly Ginko ring, in silver, gold, diamonds
Orecchini a foglia in argento con diamanti
Silver leaf earrings with diamonds

The gems of Pamela Huizenga

The dance of the stones drives Pamela Huizenga fantasy: unique pieces with gems at the center of her creativity ♦

At 16, in Florida, Pamela Huizenga had already shown her passion for stones. The minerals were collected, as long as were a bit shining, and brought home. She did not suspect, though, that after a few years would become a well-known and appreciated designer. Actually there is a pause in her history: after studying the cutting of stones and the secrets of an accomplished artisan goldsmith in North Carolina, she was married and had three children.

Collana con diamanti grezzi
Necklace with rough diamonds

But the passion for the stones has prevailed. The start of the conversion to jewelry designer was a bit casual, with the purchase of an Ethiopian opal on eBay. It was 2009. From this stone began the path that has turned into a jewelry professional, that only creates unique pieces. His creations are made between Florida, New York and Bali, where work an artisan woman specialized in the processing of silver pieces. Needless to say the center of its jewels include especially stones, especially those who have something special: turquoise, jade, opals of different types (Ethiopian or Mexican), but also fossils and petrified wood are the basic elements upon which you exercise the fantasy of Pamela. The prices of her jewels start at about $ 4,000.

Bracciale con turchesi
Bracelet with turquoises
Collana in oro e aquaprase
Necklace in gold and aquaprase pearls
Collana in oro bianco e malachite
Necklace in white gold and malachite
Collana con cluster di diamanti grezzi
Rough diamond cluster necklace
Orecchini con acquamarina
Aquamarine earrings
Orecchini con spessartite
Spessartite earrings
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