High-end jewels, exceptional precious stones, design: these are the three pillars on which the fame of GemGèneve is built, who returns to the Swiss city (5-8 May). GemGèneve is the result of the initiative of two veterans of the sector, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah, who four years ago decided to free themselves from Baselworld, a fair that was already showing signs of the decline that led to its dissolution. Now to the founders have joined more younger generations, represented by Ida Faerber, Nadège Totah and Mathieu Dekeukelaire. The two Geneva jewelers, however, remain the soul and mind of GemGèneve. This edition, which coincides with the dramatic war in Ukraine, prompted Faerber and Totah to circulate an interview that does not neglect the hottest aspects of current affairs and which we report in the following lines.
The last edition of GemGenève took place in November 2021, and you are already preparing for a 4th show in May this year. Is GemGenève now a bi-annual event?
Thomas Faerber: “I would say that in these times of economic and political uncertainty, it would be best to focus on the May 2022 edition for the time being. Later on, we will consult with our exhibitors and make a decision on what to do next. After all, we are not like those trade fair organisers who plan an event and then try to fill all of the spaces. We do the exact opposite, which sets us apart from the competition and is one of GemGenève’s strengths.”
Ronny Totah: “In a way, GemGenève is like a ‘wedding planner’ for the exhibitors. If they want us to schedule two editions a year, we will do that. We have already received requests for a trade fair in November this year. Requests have also been made for other kinds of trade fairs. Our priority is always to attend to the needs of the exhibitors. There are indeed some parallels between our trade fairs and a wedding planner – you don’t plan the big day and then choose the happy couple. Similarly, the exhibitors come to us first and we make arrangements with them.”
So does that mean that the next edition will take place in May 2023?
Ronny Totah: “That’s how it’s looking right now, in principle, yes. But as Thomas has just pointed out, the date for the next edition will be chosen following consultation with our exhibitors, once the May 2022 edition is over.”
Rumour has it that you have very specific criteria for selecting exhibitors for GemGenève. What can you tell us about it?
Ronny Totah: “That’s all it is – a rumour. We don’t have any specific criteria. The criteria depend on what the exhibitors bring and present. We do our best to maintain a balance both in terms of the quality and the diversity of the exhibits.”
Thomas Faerber: “I would say that the main criterion is to offer a diverse range of exhibitors including dealers in diamonds, coloured gemstones, modern and contemporary jewellery as well as vintage pieces. We also welcome young designers and up-and-coming talents. I would also like to point out that in principle, we select exhibitors who are not necessarily the best-known, but whose work is of the best quality.”
Given the current economic and political situation, how is the gemstone and jewellery market doing, and what could be the consequences of the war in Ukraine for the jewellery sector?
Thomas Faerber: “The Russian attack on Ukraine shocks me to the core. Just like Switzerland, Ukraine is a member of the United Nations. Right now, it’s too early to say what the mid-term and long-term consequences of this crisis will be. However, since the Russian invasion began, I have noticed more caution and a slight downturn in activity in my company.”
Ronny Totah: “It’s impossible to know what the consequences of the current situation will be on the gemstone and jewellery market, but it’s easy to imagine that two trends will emerge. Some people will find no joy in buying jewellery or gemstones in these turbulent times. Meanwhile, others may choose to invest in more easily transportable stones or jewellery where necessary. That would trigger an upward turn in the market.”
The organisers of several cultural events have taken steps to bar Russian participants. Have you done the same?
Ronny Totah: “No, we haven’t done anything like that. We don’t meddle in politics, and the people of a country should not be held responsible for the actions of their leader. But I’d like to make it clear that if any of our exhibitors had been found to have ties to the Russian government, their participation would have been refused.”
Thomas Faerber: “For this edition, the question did not even arise because the list of exhibitors had been established prior to the Russian invasion of Ukraine and before the embargo. If the war continues, we may be forced to take measures when planning future editions of GemGenève.”
Can we expect to see any great novelties or innovations at GemGenève 2022?
Thomas Faerber: “For me, the novelty is that the 2022 edition is actually going ahead! I see it as a novelty, even though the formula and the essence of the trade fair will remain the same. I strongly recommend attending the GemGenève conferences. Each of them is a gold mine of learning, information and exchanges relating to jewellery and our industry in general.”
Ronny Totah: “As usual, we never bring any of our exhibitors to the fore, because each and every one of them is important for the quality and balance of the show. We are delighted to see such enthusiasm for the 2022 edition, for which the exhibitor spaces were snapped up very quickly. I’d also like to say that visitors should keep an eye out for some new innovations in the cultural section of the fair, which showcases a unique concept that we call The Villa. This concept brings together several different moods and environments that can be experienced in “La Maison”. I’ll say no more, because I can’t wait for visitors to discover it all for themselves in May. New faces at the trade fair include a young gouache artist called Estelle Lagarde. We believe that she has a glittering future ahead of her. A true novelty came in the form of a last-minute surprise: the Igor Carl Fabergé Foundation, founded by the grandson of Carl Fabergé, has lent its support to a section of GemGenève devoted to enamel. Two pieces by the grand master, Carl Fabergé, himself will also be on display. This début appearance at GemGenève by the Igor Fabergé Foundation will hopefully pave the way for its involvement in future editions, and we are delighted about that!”
What are you expecting from the May edition?
Ronny Totah: “I would like it to confirm that all the passionate energy of the entire team will be rewarded by the desire of the exhibitors, and especially that of visitors, to return to GemGenève in the future.”
Thomas Faerber: “Following on from the November edition, we are thrilled to be able to offer this completely new kind of platform once again for business, exchanges and interactions, which will allow us to better understand the current market situation. Discussions with exhibitors, customers and visitors are very important and offer us the chance to take the pulse of the market in real time. We’re both hoping that this edition will be as successful as the one in November was.”
