A necklace that has witnessed history and at least two British coronations. But, regardless of its historical value, a jewel of exceptional value, which Sotheby’s is auctioning on November 11 at the Mandarin Oriental in Geneva and via Online Bidding from October 25 on Sothebys.com, preceded by a public exhibition at Sotheby’s New Bond Street in London on Monday, September 23 and Tuesday, September 24, and then in Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, Taipei, Dubai.
The necklace is composed of approximately 300 carats of diamonds and dates back to the 18th century. The estimate is 1,800,000-2,800,000 dollars. The origin of the necklace probably dates back to the decade preceding the French Revolution. Although its precise origin story is not recorded, such an important and historic antique jewel could only have been created for royalty or a high-ranking aristocrat in one of the glittering courts of the ancien régime, most often the French or English courts. It is thought that some of the diamonds in this jewel may have come from the famous necklace linked to what became the Affair of the Necklace scandal, which contributed to the French Revolution and the guillotine of Marie Antoinette.
The necklace certainly belonged to the Marquesses of Anglesey, one of the leading Anglo-Welsh aristocratic families with close ties to the British royal family in the early 20th century. In 1937, Marjorie Paget, Marchioness of Anglesey (eldest daughter of Henry Manners, 8th Duke of Rutland), wore the jewel to the coronation of King George VI, along with the famous Anglesey Tiara, as seen in Cecil Beaton’s photograph. In 1953, her daughter-in-law attended the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II wearing the same set of family jewels. The 7th Marquess of Anglesey parted ways with the jewel in the 1960s and in 1976, it was exhibited at the Bicentennial Exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History, before being acquired by a major Asian collector, where it has remained ever since.
The necklace is made up of three rows of diamonds finished with a diamond tassel at each end. The necklace can be worn in a variety of ways, including sewn onto an item of clothing as an ornament, with the tassels dangling or tied in a simple knot. All the diamonds in the jewel are an “old mine” brilliant cut, weighing between one and one and a half carats each. They are likely to have come from the legendary Golconda mines in India. The Golconda diamonds were the first in the world to be discovered in the 4th century BC. and although the mines became extinct almost 200 years ago, Golconda diamonds are still considered the purest and most dazzling diamonds ever mined.
This rare and important diamond jewel is a sublime survivor of the opulent court life of the Georgian era, characterised by its unparalleled pomp and splendour; it is probably one of the most magnificent and intact Georgian jewels in private hands. Compared to other surviving imperial and royal jewels from the same period, this necklace is far superior to these examples; it is a fortune in diamonds and also a masterpiece of fine design, workmanship and technical innovation for its time. The jewel is as relevant, fascinating and attractive today as when it was made over two centuries ago. It is the pinnacle of 18th century jewellery design.
Andres White Correal, President Jewellery Europe and Middle East, Head of Noble Jewels
