The rapid rise of Dries Criel

He studied law at the University of Ghent, Belgium. But the only law that really fascinated him is that of jewelry. Dries Criel preferred that of a jewelry designer to the profession of lawyer and in 2019 he founded his Maison. With excellent feedback. So much so that in a short time his jewels were chosen by large online stores as well as on Lady Gaga’s body. His jewels are inspired by different aspects, all related to his interests. For example, from his background in modern dance, from travel, from ancient jewels, from architecture, from contemporary art, but also from ancient Egypt. It goes without saying that, in perfect mainstream, they are also genderless.

Anello in oro e diamanti ispirato all'antico Egitto
Gold and diamond ring inspired by ancient Egypt

The jewels are handcrafted by artisans from Antwerp, where Dries Criel, before founding his Maison, obtained a diploma as a diamond expert from HRD Antwerp, the highest European authority for these gems. But previously he also worked in marketing for Louis Reichman Jewelery. Water under the bridge, he is now a designer.

Anello ispirato all'antico Egitto in oro bianco, smalto, lapislazzuli
Ring inspired by ancient Egypt in white gold, enamel, lapis lazuli
Orecchini Brute in oro giallo, smalto e diamanti
Brute earrings in yellow gold, enamel and diamonds
Dries Criel
Dries Criel
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo e diamanti
Drop earrings in yellow gold and diamonds
Bracciale Infinite Triangle in oro giallo e diamanti
Infinite Triangle bracelet in yellow gold and diamonds
lotus yellow gold ring
Lotus ring in yellow gold
Anello in oro rosa
Rose gold ring

Organic Jewellery, design for freedom

Iryna Karpova is an architect and goldsmith art designer, who deserved the title of Knight of the Orders of the Carl Faberge Memorial Foundation. But, above all, she is Ukrainian, with everything that she means today. Since 2018 she has left Kyiv to live and work in Basel, Switzerland. But she without turning her back on her country of origin. After the Russian invasion, for example, she created heart-shaped pendants with a symbolic trident designed by the Ukrainian artist Vova Vorotniov. The trident is a symbol of Ukraine which was originally the symbol of Prince Volodymyr in the Middle Ages, when Ukraine was called Ruthenia.

Pendente con topazio
Topaz pendant

Iryna introduced a style in jewelry called Romantic Avant-Garde. The designer works on the evolution of traditions, restoring ancient techniques and weaving them into the aesthetics of modern jewelry. She also founded a school of goldsmith practice based on a series of unique artistic and technical devices. You have taken part in dozens of exhibitions in Ukraine, France, the United States, Monaco and the United Kingdom. After Karpov&Karpova Jewellery, Iryna founded Organic Jewelery together with the CEO Jan Bangert, an international lawyer. Organic Jewelery is supported by the Strong & Precious Art Foundation, an association that supports Ukrainian goldsmithing and has been present at GemGenève for a couple of years.
Anelli con ametista
Rings with amethyst

Anello in oro e diamanti
Gold and diamond ring
Anello in oro e rubino
Gold and ruby ring
Orecchini in oro, diamanti, pavé di zaffiri e rubini
Earrings in gold, diamonds, pavé of sapphires and rubies
Pendente a forma di cuore in oro e smalti
Heart-shaped pendant in gold and enamel

A battering ram for Vicky Shawe

A new jewelery brand has appeared in the space reserved for designers at Vicenzaoro: Vicky Shawe. The English-speaking name was chosen by Vicky Tsangaridou, who chose Cyprus as the company’s registered office. At the same time, Vicky is also the creative director and co-founder of the Athens-based Orphic Group: a luxury hub, dealing with investment consultancy, corporate event planning, startup incubator, gin production, fine jewelry design, as well as aerospace and defense sector. In this varied setting, which also features Constantin Tzembelikos, managing partner of Mediterra Holdings, the new brand has identified an original style for its jewels.

Vicky Tsangaridou. Copyright:
Vicky Tsangaridou. Copyright:

A choice that also derives from the experience of the designer, who graduated in Fine Arts from York University in Toronto (Canada, where she lived for two decades) and with experience in the performing arts, after having attended an Academy of Dance. Vicky Shawe jewelery seems inspired by a rock atmosphere and with stylized ram skulls, made of gold, gems and colored enamel. A jewelry store that presents itself as gender fluid and with a highly innovative character, with large bracelets, band rings, large pendants.
Bracciale in oro con la forma di teschio di ariete
Gold bracelet in the shape of a ram skull. Copyright:

Spilla in oro con smalto bianco e verde
Necklace with pendant in black rhodium-plated gold and peridot. Copyright:

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati
18k white gold earrings

Spilla in oro con smalto bianco e verde
Gold brooch with white and green enamel

The 24 brands of Jewellery Geneva

There are 24 jewelry brands that will participate in the third edition of Jewellery Geneva. The event is scheduled from 9 to 15 April in conjunction with Watches and Wonders and focused on fine watchmaking which is organized at the Palexpo in the Swiss city, and with Haute Jewels Geneva, which involves as many jewelery Maisons and takes place at the Fairmont Hotel. Not too far from Jewellery Geneva, which takes place again this year in the Hotel President on Quai Wilson 47, a few steps from most of the best hotels.

Hotel President. Copyright:
Hotel President. Copyright:

Jewellery Geneva is organized by H2 Eventi of Howard Hauben, who held the role of head of Europa Star and edited Basel Tribune, the official newspaper of Baselworld, from 1985 to 2016, with four editions for each fair, printing overnight and distributing around 10 thousand copies during what was the most important trade fair event in the world. Hauben also created, founded and directed the famous Couture Show in Las Vegas and now directs another jewelry event, the Centurion which takes place in Phoenix, Arizona.
Jewellery Genva 2023
Jewellery Genva 2023. Copyright:

They will participate in Jewelery Geneva 2024: Anan Jewels, Artexpo, Artur Scholl, Bloch, Busatti Milano, Damaso, Di.Go Srl/Valentina Callegher, Hasbani Gioielli, Heinz Mayer, Hulchi Belluni, Isabellefa, Italgold Valenza 1967, J Jewels Milano, Jewels By Jacob will participate in Jewelery Geneva 2024 , K Di Kuore, Luca B, Matthia’s & Claire, Misani, Nader Kash, Nanis, Rf Jewels, Schreiner, Solo Collection, Staurino, Tirisi, Zydo.

Jewellery Geneva 2023 booth
Jewellery Geneva 2023, exhibitors. Copyright:

The elegance of the cowgirl Karina Brez

The charm of the Wild West, with the herds, the horses and, of course, the cowboys. And, for women, cowgirls. The contrast between beauty and the natural environment also made Karina Brez, a first generation Ukrainian-American, fall in love with her and who, in turn, made those who admired her as the winner of the Miss Florida title fall in love with her. Now, however, she creates jewelry. Her latest creation is called the Cowgirl Luv Collection, which pays homage to iconic mountain ranges such as the Sierra Nevada, Denali and Mount Whitney. Each ring in the collection symbolizes a mountain range, presenting a unique blend of sophistication and the wild, free spirit of a cowgirl.

Orecchino in oro, diamanti e turchesi indossato
Earring in gold, diamonds and turquoises

The hoop earrings are inspired by Montana, Aspen, Dakota, Sedona and Dallas. They are made of gold in the three classic colors yellow, white or pink, with the addition of a combination of turquoise, pink sapphires and diamonds. Jewelry worn and photographed through the lens of Dre Joseph. Karina Brez is passionate about horses and gemstones: she completed GIA’s Graduate Gemologist program, she is a graduate and supports non-profit organizations that introduce children to the healing power of horses.

Anelli e collane della Cowgirl Luv Collection
Rings and necklaces from the Cowgirl Luv Collection
Bracciali e anelli della Cowgirl Luv Collection
Bracelets and rings from the Cowgirl Luv Collection
Bracciali della Cowgirl Luv Collection
Bracelets from the Cowgirl Luv Collection
Collana con pendente e anelli in oro, turchesi, diamanti
Necklace with pendant and rings in gold, turquoise, diamonds
Karina Brez
Karina Brez

Tessa Packard, british style

Alongside traditional jewels, Tessa Packard surprises with precious but also fun creations

Tessa Packard is the creative director of the brand that she founded in 2013 and that in a short time has climbed the ranking of trendy jewelers. You often make slightly eccentric pieces, such as her Fried Egg earrings, made of white gold, diamonds, yellow agate and white topaz (price: 15,000 pounds). She describes her formula as “good design and narrative integrity”. She introduces a new collection every six months, but she has also specialized in the production of bespoke jewelry, both for individual clients and for other companies.

Rock Pool earring in oro bianco, ottone ossidato, rodio nero, smalto e citrino
18ct white gold verdigris brass, black rhodium, white enamel and citrine crab earrings

In short, creative imagination together with creativity in business. Tessa also rightly points out that she often participates as a speaker in numerous workshops dedicated to the role of women in the world of work. In any case, her production is liked: in 2015 the Maison was nominated for one of the 30 Hot Under 30 faces in the jewelry sector. And to say that Tessa is totally self-taught. She was born in Brazil but raised in Great Britain. She studied Fine Arts and Art History at university before launching herself into London’s commercial art world. But she moved from art galleries to jewelry.

She is keen to point out that all of her jewelery is handcrafted and finished in the UK. Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa transforms into original jewelry.

Bracciale in oro giallo e acquamarina del Mozambico
Bracelet in yellow gold and Mozambique aquamarine

Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside the traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high-quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa processes into original jewelry.

Anello Manhattan in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli
Manhattan ring in 18K gold, lapis lazuli
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati, argento brunito, perle e diamanti con nappa staccabile
Necklace in 18K yellow gold, burnished silver, pearls and diamonds with detachable tassel
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, quarzo rosa, onice, ossidiana e maialino in porcellana dipinta
Earrings in 18K white gold, rose quartz, onyx, obsidian and painted porcelain piglet
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, ottone, corallo, plastica, carta da parati vintage e pesci in resina
Earrings in 18K yellow gold, brass, coral, plastic, vintage wallpaper and resin fish
Orecchini in lucite
Lucite earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e tormalina anguria
Pendant earrings in 18K yellow gold, diamonds and watermelon tourmaline
Tessa Packard, orecchini Fried Eggs
Tessa Packard, Fried Eggs earrings

Games Without Borders by Maison Tjoeng

A cultural cocktail composed of an exotic recipe: Maison Tjoeng is a jewelry brand launched in 2016 by designer Yasmin Tjoeng. A creator who has European and Chinese roots, but also Australian ones. She but she grew up in Papua New Guinea and lives in Singapore. She also attended Somerset College and Bond University in Australia with a degree in Architectural Interior Design. You lived in Beijing to study Mandarin, and then in Hong Kong. She until she arrived in Paris, where she met a jewelry designer who marked a new path forward, thanks also to a diploma in jewelry design at the Raffles College of Design and Commerce of the Asian city-state.

Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati Selene
Selene 18K yellow gold earrings

Her jewels reflect the designer’s entire background, between European traditions and Asian influence, with the addition of the inspiration she finds in the art of Melanesia, where she spent her childhood and which fascinated and influencing her her her style. Her jewels can be purchased online on platforms such as Moda Operandi.

Pendente Capri Postcard in oro e smalto
Capri Postcard pendant in gold and enamel
Collana Arcadia in oro 18 carati
Arcadia necklace in 18-karat gold
Anello Maar in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Maar ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Orecchini Meridian in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Meridian earrings in 18k gold and diamonds
Anello Adagio in oro 18 carati e diamante
Adagio ring in 18K gold and diamond
Orecchini Gold Pacific Moon in oro, diamanti e turchese
Gold Pacific Moon earrings in gold, diamonds and turquoise
Yasmin Tjoeng
Yasmin Tjoeng

Kloto curves

From the carpenter’s bench to the jeweler’s bench. It is not an easy leap taken by Senem Gençoğlu, the designer who founded his brand, Kloto. A graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design, she was born into a family with a long tradition in Turkish jewelry. But she, a design lover, wanted to design and make furniture. Simple, linear Scandinavian design objects were her passion. Thus she found herself working seriously in a carpentry shop in Istanbul and in interior and design companies such as Lee Broom, Marcel Wanders, but also for the jeweler Sevan Biçakçi in London, New York, Amsterdam and Istanbul. Then, however, the idea of combining the two aspects prevailed: the Nordic design of objects, with the specialty of the house, jewellery: a decision which is also the fruit, she says, of a childhood spent many days at the Grand Bazaar, studying art and working in the ateliers in the summer, with his father, uncle and brother working in the jewelery shop, specializing in handmade chains.

Arya earrings 18k gold, diamonds
Arya earrings 18k gold, diamonds

The synthesis of this path is the Kloto brand, which offers jewels with a simple but refined design, innovative ideas, 18-karat gold and diamonds, but also silver for a more accessible price range. Round and sinuous volumes, unusual solutions, smooth surfaces are the characteristics of the style of the brand, which has also landed at the Couture in Las Vegas.
Drop Earrings 18K Gold & Diamonds
Drop Earrings 18K Gold & Diamonds

Geo ring 18K gold & diamonds
Geo ring 18K gold & diamonds
Night ring 18k gold & diamonds
Night ring 18k gold & diamonds
Raya earrings 18K gold and silver
Raya earrings 18K gold and silver
Senem Gençoğlu (Facebook)
Senem Gençoğlu (Facebook)
Volution ring 18K gold & diamonds
Volution ring 18K gold & diamonds

Al Sije will return the Jewelery Design Award

With 280 exhibiting brands including jewelery companies, manufacturers and exporters on 8000 square meters, Sije 2023 was the largest edition of the show dedicated to jewellery. The Sije is aimed at buyers and consumers mainly from Singapore and Indonesia, a partner country, as well as from the rest of South Asia, with a B2B/B2C format. And the one that ended on 16 July was also the first edition organized by Ieg (Italian Exhibition Group). And for 2024 the relaunch of the Singapore Jewelery Design Award 2024 is expected, which in the past saw 93 candidates from 16 countries. The theme of the competition will be Sustainable Luxury.

Il booth di Talento Italiano a Singapore
The Talento Italiano booth in Singapore

In the coming years, Sije will represent an increasingly effective gateway to Asian markets for companies in the gold and jewelery supply chain. The growth rates of the region are also an opportunity for Made in Italy companies and we will also be able to attract international exhibitors to our exhibitions in Italy and around the world, from Europe, with Vicenzaoro and Oroarezzo, to the Middle East, with JGT in Dubai and now also to Asia with Sije in Singapore.
Marco Carniello, Global Exhibition Director Jewelery & Fashion of Ieg

Marco Carniello
Marco Carniello

A confirmation of the strategic role of Singapore for the jewel in the ASEAN market (acronym of Association of Southeast Asian Nations, which has ten members), according to Corrado Perboni, CEO of Ieg. Singapore the offer was mainly centered on high jewelery from 28 countries. Besides Singapore (over 60 companies), other exhibitors came from Hong Kong and Thailand. Followed by Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia, Sri Lanka and, to a lesser extent, also Nepal, Poland, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, UAE, USA. Nine exhibitors from Italy including Zydo, at its fifteenth participation.
Operatori durante una passata edizione di SIje
Business during the SIje

Opportunities from Asia
Singapore, the economic hub of the ASEAN area which has a catchment area of 600 million people, represents a major development opportunity for gold, jewelery and watchmaking, with compound annual growth forecasts (CAGR) for luxury goods in the 4.64% in the five-year period 2022-2027, supported by the entry of new jewelery brands and the increase in sales of watches, accompanied by rapid urbanization and greater availability of income.

According to Confindustria Federorafi data, in 2022 Italy exported goods to the area for 264.44 million euros, equal to 2.7% of total sectoral exports in value, with increases of +46.5% on 2021 and by +89.4% on pre-covid 2019. Taken together, these markets occupied the ninth place in the ranking of destinations. Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand are the three main markets in the area. A decidedly positive trend also in the first quarter of 2023, which closed with 81 million euros exported, +38.3% on January-March 2022 and a 3.2% share of total sectoral exports for the period analysed.

Sije is a new stage in Ieg’s expansion strategy, which offers our exhibitors and prospects an even richer portfolio of top-level exhibitions on the various continents. The Far East, in particular, is one of the largest and most interesting markets for companies aiming to expand their business by exporting products and know-how.
Francesco Santa, CEO Ieg Middle East, Dubai & International Business Development Director Ieg Group

[caption id="attachment_117314" align="aligncenter" width="709"]
Francesco Santa Francesco Santa

Miseno in Italy with Ischia

Miseno, an Italian brand born in 2014 and which has developed mainly on the American market, also extends its proposal to its origins. The brand is presented at Vicenzaoro September 2023 and extends to the Italian market: it is currently distributed in the USA by Neiman Marcus, Saks, Bloomingdales and selected retailers. And the first collection that Miseno presents in Italy is called Ischia: a reference to the origins of the Maison, founded by the Neapolitan Antonio Cardamuro. Ischia is one of the two islands (the other is Capri) not far from Naples.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro blu, smeraldo
Ring in white gold, diamonds, blue sapphire, emerald

Ischia is also called green-island, due to its luxuriant vegetation. And the Miseno collection is inspired by leaves and flowers with rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets made in 18-karat white gold with diamonds, blue sapphires and emeralds. Gemstones add a pop of color to jewelry that has three lobes of diamonds and one of green or blue gemstones. There is also a version of the set with a pavé of diamonds only.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, smeraldo e zaffiro collezione Ischia
White gold ring with diamonds, emerald and sapphire Ischia collection
Collana indossata
Necklace and earrings worn
Bracciale della collezione Ischia
Bracelet from the Ischia collection
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Earrings in white gold and diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro blu e smeraldo
Earrings in white gold, diamonds, blue sapphire and emerald

Roman & Xander’s Jade Magic

Jade, opals, morganite. In addition, of course, to gold and diamonds: Roman & Xander is a Hong Kong jewelery company that looks back on three generations of craftsmen and traders. The name, however, reflects that of the two younger Roman and Xander, while Philip Choi is the owner and director of the Maison. Roman & Xander sells worldwide through online platforms such as and forms a bridge between East and West. Jade is one of the most used stones, both carved with shapes linked to the oriental tradition, and in simple spheres used for a bracelet or with a cabochon cut for a ring. Furthermore, when we say jade, we must remember that there are different varieties, including the one called imperial, particularly valuable, used by Roman & Xander.

Anello com zaffiro non scaldato e diamanti
Ring with unheated sapphire and diamonds

Jade is not, however, the only gem used by the Chinese brand. The vast repertoire of jewels offered includes the classic rings with diamonds and sapphires alongside elaborate brooches or pendants. Or, jade is used in combination with other stones. A particularly elaborate necklace, for example, combines jade and semi-precious stones.

Anello con morganite di 3,66 carati e diamanti
Ring with morganite of 3.66 carats and diamonds
Orecchini con zaffiri taglio asscher e diamanti
Earrings with asscher cut sapphires and diamonds
Anello con opale nero di 70,84 carati, diamanti e zaffiri
Ring with black opal of 70.84 carats, diamonds and sapphires
Bracciale con perle di giada icy e diamanti
Bracelet with icy jade beads and diamonds
Pendente spilla con giada icy e diamanti
Brooch pendant with icy jade and diamonds
Orecchini di giada e diamanti
Jade and diamond earrings
Spilla con giada imperiale e diamanti
Brooch with imperial jade and diamonds

Jewelery and security at the airport

Do you can wear jewels when passing through the airport security check? Are there jewels that are considered dangerous? Here are all answers to your doubts ♦ ︎

Journey and jewelery: one of the most delicate moments is the security check in the airports. How to behave with necklaces, rings and bracelets? Do you have to wear or leave home? Do you must put it in plastic boxes that go under the control of x-ray scanners to not make the alarm of metal detectors ring? Who has the habit of wearing several jewelery, in addition to the watch, will be asked how should you adjust. The answer is provided by the TSA blog, the Transportation Security Administration, the official site of the US Department of Homeland Security. Please note that those published are advice, not absolute rules. So there may be different behaviors.

Controllo dei bagagli in aeroporto
Baggage check at the airport

Wear the jewels. In essence, however, TSA recommends wearing jewels. There are, however, exceptions: if the jewel is bulky it could be inspected. A large ring or necklace with a maxi pendant could hide dangerous substances. In this case, a specific check will be required. Another solution is to remove jewels before checking them and put them in hand luggage: bag, backpack or small suitcase under the x-ray control. Of course, if you are inexpensive jewelry you can easily put them in the trays along with your smartphone and coins.

Controllo al body scanner
Body scanner check

Piercing. Metal piercing can cause a metal detector alarm. This, in some cases, may suggest operators further control. You may also be asked to remove the piercing from the body, obviously in the closed room. It is, however, a waste of time.

Gioielli al controllo passaporti
Jewelry at passport control

Glasses. Eyeglasses can be worn while passing to the metal detector: they should not cause the sound of the alarm. In any case, it is always better to wear them than to walk without seeing anything or almost.

Con i bagagli verso l'imbarco
With the luggage towards the boarding
Verso il gate
To the gate
Le code ai controlli di sicurezza possono essere snervanti
Queues at security checkpoints can be unnerving
In aeroporto
At the airport

For Inesa Kovalova jewels between brush and computer

If you can’t own a great jewel, design it. It can be a great satisfaction, explains Inesa Kovalova. However, in addition to drawing them with delicate brushes and tempera colors, she creates real jewels. The Ukrainian designer Inesa Kivalova alternates the production of jewels with an innovative shape and made with equally tech methods, with teaching.

Anello The Arch
The Arch ring

She graduated in architecture, she followed a learning path at Central St. Martins in London and at the Creative Academy, the private design school of the Richemont group in Milan. There she worked on real projects for Richemont brands such as Van Cleef and Arpels, Vacheron Constantine, Roger Dubuis and others, followed by an internship in the design department of Van Cleef and Arpels in Paris.

Inesa Kovalova. Copyright:
Inesa Kovalova. Copyright:

Since 2016 Inesa has been teaching all over the world. For her masterclasses she has collaborated with various art and design institutions, including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, or for the Antwerp World Diamond Centre. In addition, she offers online jewelry design courses. Her jewels are full of personality: they have a geometric, modern design, created thanks to the use of 3D printing. Like the titanium brooch, with beryl and diamonds that she wears herself.

Gioiello di Inesa Kovalova
Jewel by Inesa Kovalova
Orecchino pendente Cube
Cube earring

One Thousand and One Nights with Noudar

The Perfumes of the One Thousand and One Nights in the Noudar Jewels collections ♦

The perception of uses and customs associated with the Arab world is conditioned by the chronicle and, sometime, preconceptions. In fact, the world, even the Arabic one, is not all the same thing. As you can see with the Noudar Jewels brand, the word derives from the ancient Arabic word meaning gold. Images from the Noudar catalog are enough to display a different image of the woman from what she usually circulates. You can see the pictures on this page.

Sofia Vergara con gioielli Noudar
Sofia Vergara con gioielli Noudar

To found the Maison, of which he is a designer, is Noor Al Fardan. As you can easily predict, jewels combine the curls and oriental volutes, with a luxury that also wants to be appreciated in the West. In short, the heritage of Arabic and Islamic culture, in particular of Oman’s traditional patterns, reminiscent of mosaics and drawings at henna, along with much simpler and more sober jewels, in classic yellow or pink gold, along with diamonds or emeralds . Imagine them in the famous cave of Aladino in One Thousand and One Nights.

Choker in oro rosa e diamanti brown
Choker in rose gold and brown diamonds
Doppio anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Double ring in rose gold and diamonds
Orecchini in oro rosa con zaffiri, diamanti, rubini e smeraldi
Rose gold earrings with sapphires, diamonds, rubies and emeralds
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracelet in white gold and diamonds
Anello in oro giallo e diamante e smeraldo
Ring in yellow gold and diamond and emerald

Queen Victoria’s love crown

The story of Queen Victoria’s most loved crown and designed by her husband, Prince Albert. It is now exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London ♦ ︎

Do the jewels of the British royal house fascinate you? Here is an opportunity not to be missed: the Victoria & Albert Museum in London exhibits one of Queen Victoria’s most beloved jewels, a small crown with sapphires and diamonds. The reason why Queen Victoria loved this crown is that it was designed by her husband, prince Albert. The crown is the most prized piece of gallery named to William e Judith Bollinger. William Bollinger is an Irish-American millionaire of hedge funds, his wife is Judith.

La corona appartenuta alla regina Vittoria, con zaffiri e diamanti
The crown that belonged to Queen Victoria, with sapphires and diamonds

The Victoria & Albert Museum has one of the most beautiful and complete jewelry collections in the world: over 3,000 jewels, from antiquity to the present day. Among these there are also particularly fine pieces, including a golden Celtic armor, pendants donated by Elizabeth I to her courtiers, diamonds worn by Catherine Grande of Russia, jewels of the art nouveau designer Réné Lalique, Cartier tiaras and contemporary works by Wendy Ramshaw, Peter Chang and Marjorie Schick.

La regina Vittoria con la corona indossata sulla nuca, nel ritratto di Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Queen Victoria with the crown worn on the back of her neck, in the portrait by Franz Xaver Winterhalter

The little crown of the queen

The crown of Queen Victoria is very flexible, it can be folded back and forth: its size is almost that of a diadem, but a little wider. The jewel was designed by the queen’s wife, Albert, in 1840, the year of the couple’s marriage. It was then materially made by Joseph Kitching, of Kitching and Abud, jewelers of the queen. In 1842 Victoria wore the crown on the occasion of a portrait by Franz Xaver Winterhalter. The chaplet was very important to Victoria, because it reminded her of her husband, who died in 1861. Five years later, still mourning the death of Albert, Victoria chose that little crown, instead of the official one, to open the Parliament.

La regina Vittoria con il marito Albert, ritratto circa 1840
Queen Victoria with her husband Albert, portrait circa 1840

The heirs of the crown

After the death of Queen Victoria, the crown was inherited by the descendants: it was first addressed to Edward VII, then to George V and to Queen Mary, and finally to their daughter, Princess Mary. But years ago, the crown was bought by an anonymous American private buyer: the British government had blocked the export. However, in 2016 it was purchased for 5 million pounds by the Bollinger family and donated to the museum.

In addition to the crown, the William and Judith Bollinger gallery of the jewelery museum exhibits 3000 objects including 49 art deco pieces collected by Freddie Mercury’s sister, Kashmira Cooke, and lent to the museum in the memory of the singer with the prospect of becoming a permanent gift.

Pendente in smalto con cameo in agata, fa parte della la galleria William e Judith Bollinger
Enamel pendant with agate cameo, is part of the William and Judith Bollinger gallery
Ornamento per capelli a forma di orchidea, circa 1905
Orchid hair ornament, circa 1905
Lovers Eye, spilla inglese, circa 1800, in oro con perle e diamanti
Lovers Eye, English brooch, circa 1800, in gold with pearls and diamonds

India in Sophie Theakston’s jewels

The charm of India, the love for art, for decorations, for rich furnishings, but also for more or less imaginative myths: Sophie Theakston is a British designer who loves symbolism and ancient Indian folklore. In fact, her jewels are made in Rajasthan before being sold in London. The workmanship of the jewels is influenced by the Indian tradition, which often occurs. As for the semi-precious stones carved with the figures of the pantheon of the Hindu religion, such as the deity Ganesh.

Collana con stella e luna in oro e diamanti polki
Star and moon necklace in gold and polki diamonds

But not only. Because the designer also presents jewels, such as the 18-karat gold rigid cuff bracelet with symbols that are a reference to the late 19th-early 20th century Austrian painter Gustav Klimt. Sophie Theakston’s jewels, underlines the Maison, are made with ethically sourced materials, are completely sustainable, respectful of the environment and of the people who work to make them. In any case, the designer knows her job well: she represents the second generation of a family of jewelers. She is married to television presenter Jamie Theakston (maiden name is Sophie Siegle) and she gets up at 5.15 every morning.

Collana in oro con Buddha a quattro facce
Gold Necklace with Four Faced Buddha
Anello in oro com una hessonite cabochon
Gold ring with a cabochon hessonite
Bracciale Expectation in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Expectation bracelet in 18K gold and diamonds
Collana con lapislazzuli intagliato con la figura di Ganesh
Necklace with lapis lazuli carved with the figure of Ganesh
Bracciale in oro con opali
Gold bracelet with opals
Sophie Theakston
Sophie Theakston

Oushaba’s hi-tech jewels

Sustainability and technology: two words that are part of everyone’s life but which, rarely, also become part of the world of jewelry. Bringing the two concepts together is a newborn brand Oushaba. The idea is to bring into jewelry both fragments of that technology that everyone uses on a daily basis, and the need to focus on a circular economy. This intention translates into jewels that are made through the design of basic electronic elements, such as the transistor boards that form the heart of smartphones or computers. Materials that have a fast obsolescence but which, according to Oushaba, can be transformed into rings or pendants. The first collection is called, precisely, Connection Salvaged.

Ring in white gold, circuit board and emerald
Ring in white gold, circuit board and emerald. Copyright:

Cards, charging cables, USB sticks find new life set in 22-karat recycled gold, 18-karat white gold and silver. Gems are added to this basic material: diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, always from sustainable sources. The jewels, for now, are produced on commission in a limited edition, waiting to find out the answer. The Maison, directed by Gillian Carr, chose the Arabic name Oushaba, which means alloy and indicates a cultural fusion of ideas and influences.

Silver Fossil Earrings feature circuit board fragments from discarded mobile phones, with responsibly sourced emeralds
Silver Fossil Earrings feature circuit board fragments from discarded mobile phones, with responsibly sourced emeralds

Furthermore, this kind of cultural mix is also testified by the choice of handcrafting the jewels in Sicily, a historical example of a meeting between different cultures: the Italian island was for centuries, in the distant past (from around the 1800s to over year 1000), dominated by the Arabs. A period that has left a cultural legacy on the island that still lasts. Each jewel is sold in bespoke packaging created in collaboration with London-based furniture designer Jan Hendzel Studio, using sustainable or reclaimed woods and recycled fabric and cork for the internal lining. A portion of the proceeds from each sale will be given to charity.

Silver Circuit Ring
Silver Circuit Ring
Constellation necklace 22 kt gold chain and multi stone pendant
Constellation necklace 22 kt gold chain and multi stone pendant
Gillian Carr. Copyright:
Gillian Carr. Copyright:
Orbit bracelet, 18kt gold, oxidised silver and rubies
Orbit bracelet, 18kt gold, oxidised silver and rubies

The three-dimensional innovation of Yael Kaduri

Who said that in the world of jewelry there is no room for invention? Perhaps thanks to technology, if combined with a good dose of creativity. An example of this is Yael Kaduri, a 3D jewelry designer who boasts a very personal path halfway between art and goldsmithing. Although, in truth, her focus is not centered on precious materials, but on the possibilities that 3D printing offers when combined with traditional craftsmanship. Yael also teaches at the Bezalel Academy of Arts & Design in Jerusalem, holds degrees in jewelry and fashion, and teaches as an assistant professor at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. In short, an eclectic creativity, also testified by the passion for the connection between music and visual arts.

Spille in ottone e polimero
Spille in ottone e polimero

Jewels are a world apart. According to the Yael, jewels combine concentration, accuracy, enigmatic essence and delicacy with communication and body awareness. “The main sources of my inspiration are the natural worlds and aesthetic ideals of traditional Japanese craftsmanship,” she adds. Yael Kaduri’s work is focused, according to her description, on product development in an attempt to come up with some new craft skills to design jewelery using 3D printed polymers, combined with cast metal and traditional goldsmithing. A hybrid object, which she calls digital precious. But even more precious are her innovative ideas.
Choker in acciaio, smalto, argento
Choker in acciaio, smalto, argento

Collana stampata in 3D ispirata alle creature marine traslucenti
Collana stampata in 3D ispirata alle creature marine traslucenti
Spille in PLA, bioplastica di origine naturale, acciao, gesso, sabbia, rame, ottone, vernice per auto
Spille in PLA, bioplastica di origine naturale, acciao, gesso, sabbia, rame, ottone, vernice per auto
Collana indossata ispirata agli animali marini translucenti
Collana indossata ispirata agli animali marini translucenti

Cats and earrings with Begüm Khan

It is not true that there is no longer a sultan in Turkey. There are millions and several hundred thousand live in Istanbul: they are cats, a feline population that lives among the streets and historic buildings of the Ottoman city. And it is no coincidence that cats are among the sources of inspiration for Begüm Kiroglu, designer of the Begüm Khan brand. The founder of the brand has a special story: she studied at the Bocconi University in Milan before moving to Shanghai, where she completed a master’s degree in Chinese culture and art. A passion for creativity led Begüm to the historic Silk Road in Shanghai, where she completed a master’s degree in Chinese art and culture.

Orecchini a forma di zampe di gatto. Bronzo placcato oro 24 carati e cristalli
Orecchini a forma di zampe di gatto. Bronzo placcato oro 24 carati e cristalli

It was the cultural history of China that inspired the birth of the Begüm Khan brand. But her earrings encrusted with gems or crystal reveal the influence of the Ottoman tradition. The jewels are in simple gold-plated bronze, with root gems, i.e. non-transparent and therefore cheaper, but which retain color and depth. Alongside the jewels for women, Begüm Khan also offers a wide range of jewels for men, which we wrote about here. 
Orecchini Crazy Cat in bronzo placcato oro e cristalli
Orecchini Crazy Cat in bronzo placcato oro e cristalli

Teddy earrings placcati oro e radici di zaffiro rosa
Teddy earrings placcati oro e radici di zaffiro rosa
Orecchini placcati oro con radici di rubino
Orecchini placcati oro con radici di rubino
Orecchini con placcati oro e quarzo nero
Orecchini con placcati oro e quarzo nero
Orecchini con radici di rubino
Orecchini con radici di rubino
Orecchini placcati oro e radici di smeraldo
Orecchini placcati oro e radici di smeraldo

Ieg conquers the Singapore jewelery fair

The fairs dedicated to jewelery are increasingly global and the challenge is played out across the board. Thus, after the agreement and the relaunch in the Middle East with the JGT Dubai, Ieg flies to Asia. The Italian company, which organizes Vicenzaoro and Oroarezzo lands in Singapore with its own wholly owned company Ieg Asia Pte and with two exhibitions, respectively in the jewelery and food & beverage sectors, acquired by Cems (Conference & Exhibition Management Services) . The two fairs are Sije, Singapore International Jewelry Expo and Café and Restaurant Asia.

Operatori durante una passata edizione di SIje
Operatori durante una passata edizione di SIje

Singapore is already one of the nerve centers for jewellery, where Jewelery & Gem World Singapore takes place, organized by Informa Markets Jewellery, which organizes the big event in Hong Kong. In short, the challenge on the Singapore field is open.

First of all, we are pleased to confirm the partnership with Stb, a guarantee of development and success for the exhibitions acquired. We also wish to underline how important the synergies are between the exhibitions in Italy and those acquired, highlighting the consequent impact generated by the internationalization of our exhibitions also on the Italian territory
Francesco Santa, International Business Development Director Ieg

Buyer alla fiera del gioiello di Singapore
Buyer alla fiera del gioiello di Singapore

The goal is to grow the exhibitions in Singapore, also by leveraging a mutual and productive exchange of the great success of the last edition of Vicenzaoro in January 2023 which saw the presence of over 1,300 exhibiting brands. The same can be said for Sigep with its 1,000 companies in the 2023 edition in Rimini.
Ilaria Cicero, CEO of Ieg Asia

Il booth di Talento Italiano a Singapore
Il booth di Talento Italiano a Singapore

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