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All about amethyst

Published on February 4, 2024

Mangiarotti, collana con ametista. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The stone of February is the amethyst. But this gem also it like in the other 11 months of the year. Discover the qualities of the amethyst in this article ♦
Has always been considered a sort of talisman: Sumerians and Babylonians and Egyptians wore amulets made with amethyst for protection, and for the ancient Chinese was a material with which to store spices, healing balms and ointments. In nature this variety of quartz is found inside of stony masses and quarries, geodes, crystals containing groupings. One of the most famous is the one discovered in Brazil in the area of Rio Grande Sol, 30 meters long and 15 meters completely covered with amethyst crystals width, so large that it must be dug in the ground. Amethyst is also the stone of February.

Anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri — Isabelle Langlois, anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri

The color range. It is truly remarkable, ranging from light pink to deep purple with many intermediate shades, as the example lavender or lilac, christened Rose de France, or the darkest shade almost bluish shades from red or pink typical of the stones from Russia , whose mines are now exhausted. Then there are amethysts Uruguay and Arizona with a deep blue-purple, the Zambian light purple. All owe their color to iron impurities. Some are two-tone, gold and purple, are called ametryne, and consist of quartz citrine and amethyst. Others, are green and are baptized prisiolite.

Orecchini con ametista e diamanti by Michele della Valle

Origin. There are many mineral sources, practically in almost all over the world, but the most important producers are Brazil, Uruguay, Madagascar and Zambia. A good quality stones are also found in the United States, South Korea and Austria.

Anello Sissi con agata intagliata e ametista — Anello Sissi di Sanalitro con agata intagliata e ametista

Rating. Until the 18th century it was considered a precious gem as much as a diamond, a sapphire, an emerald or a ruby. The most valuable specimens came from the Ural Mountains of Russia, but the discovery of large deposits in Brazil and other countries has largely decreased the price. Currently the main evaluation criterion is the color: the more intense and more uniform the quality. Attention to the nuances, must be neither brown nor gray.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli

Purity. It is a gem of type II, so it can have slight inclusions visible to the naked eye but if its dark color hides, it becomes more difficult in the pink variety, lavender or green. It is often found in large, it can be up to 20 carats, and is almost always natural because the heat treatment and thus the cost of such a convenient stone does not make sense.

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista

Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane

The jewels of Tefaf Maastricht

Published on March 7, 2023

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Anna Hu, bracciale Enchanted Lily, con un peridoto da 53,92 carati, gemme colorate, diamanti

In Maastricht (Netherlands) Tefaf is back (11-19 March) and, alongside antiques and works of art from the 270 exhibitors, it also presents, as always, extraordinary high jewellery. On display are vintage designer jewels, but also new ones, signed by Maisons that choose Tefaf to showcase their new creations, such as the German Hemmerle, Boghossian, Otto Jakob, but there are also jewelery brands such as van Cleef & Arpels .

Collana in oro, smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels

Among the new jewels present, new pieces presented by the artist-designer Anna Hu should not be forgotten, such as the Enchanted Lily Bangle bracelet, centered by a 53.92-carat peridot with colored gems, diamonds and gems. But even vintage jewelry has a special charm. For example, the heritage necklace and clip pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels created in 1971 in yellow gold, with 13 engraved emeralds for approximately 35.52 carats, 14 Burmese sapphires also engraved for approximately 32.17 carats and diamonds.

Fabergé, spilla in oro, diamanti e crisopraso

Another piece out of the ordinary is the brooch with a chrysoprase in the center signed by Fabergé: it has an extraordinary provenance, which includes three European royal families, Danish, Greek and Russian imperial. Last note: last year at Tefaf (which was held in June due to covid) a sensational, incredible robbery took place, with the theft of a necklace worth 27 million euros. But it seems that no one has been put off by this precedent.

Boghossian, orecchini con conch pearl, diamanti gialli e zaffiri rosa

Hemmerle, anello con diamante brillante di 5,68 carati e diamanti reverse per 2,5 carati

Precious jewels in aluminum?

Published on September 28, 2022

Campus

Orecchini a forma di punti esclamativi e interrogativi in alluminio e diamanti

Aluminum has been rediscovered for quality jewelry. Here’s how to clean and store aluminum jewelery ♦ ︎

Cans for drinks, dishes, components for airplanes: aluminum is used for many things. And it seems that the jewelry is also rediscovering this light and resistant metal. It is not, in fact, a novelty: aluminum was shown for the first time at the Paris Expo in 1855. But, at that time, it was a rare material: for this reason it was used to create jewels. From that period, when aluminum was considered as precious as gold, there are still very few pieces. It was very expensive and much appreciated: those who could, they put on display an aluminum brooch. Blackened aluminum jewels were claimed at the court of Queen Victoria after the death of her beloved Albert and became popular throughout the British Empire.

Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamante centrale brown di 12,4 carati, titanio e alluminio

The metal. Aluminum is the most common metal on Earth and one of the most common chemical elements. Until about a century ago, however, was not known the process to exctract it industrially from the minerals in which is found. It is a very light and resistant metal. It is not particularly toxic and does not cause allergies (except in rare cases). A curiosity: the aluminum oxide, also called corundum, in the form of transparent crystals is more known as sapphire and ruby. It is also the hardest natural substance after the diamond, with relative hardness 9 in the Mohs scale (which reaches 10).

Orecchini con labirinto in alluminio e tormalina verde — Hemmerle, orecchini con labirinto in alluminio e tormalina verde

Jewelry. When aluminum started to be produced in large quantities, its use in jewelry was practically ceased, apart from cheap jewelry. But recently, this material has been rediscovered creatively by some Maison who value its qualities, often with refined workmanship. Aluminum was used, for example, by Hemmerle, Vhernier, Chopard, Suzanne Syz or the young designer Emmanuel Tarpin. Among the advantages of aluminum there is undoubtedly the lightness, which allows you to make jewelry with a minimum weight. Furthermore, it is a very ductile and easy to work metal.

Aluminum care. Aluminum can oxidize. Aluminum jewels can get damaged when in contact with creams, soaps and acidic substances. Furthermore, care must be taken not to deform the metal if you are practicing a sport or doing housework. For cleaning, if the jewel has no other elements such as pearls or enamels, just immerse the jewel in warm water in which two drops of liquid soap have been dissolved. Rinse well and dry with a cotton cloth. Since the metal is resistant but can be damaged, it is better to store the jewels in aluminum separately, in containers where they are not in contact with other objects.

Orecchini in alluminio, oro bianco, diamanti by Villa Milano

Orecchini Geranium in alluminio e oro by Jar

Spilla vittoriana in alluminio con ametista

Orecchini a forma di foglie di geranio venduti da Christie's, alluminio e diamanti — Emmanuel Tarpin, orecchini a forma di foglie di geranio venduti da Christie’s, alluminio e diamanti

Hemmerle, Clematis, spilla con zaffiri, diamanti, alluminio, oro bianco

Hemmerle, the frontier of high jewelery

Published on June 27, 2022

Showroom/Orecchini/Rings

Orecchini con tormaline e granati demantoidi in vortici alluminio

Hemmerle’s jewels: the refined and inimitable inventions of the Munich jeweler ♦

In Germany it is an institution. In the United States a celebrity. In the world Hemmerle, founded in 1893, is known as one of the most avant-garde high jewelry names, because with a centuries-old history that began in 1893 in Munich, it innovated the nineteenth-century tradition of Berlin iron jewelry by setting a diamond in a setting of the same metal. It was 1995 and since then Stefan Hemmerle has continued to use courageously brass, copper, steel and wood as a background for precious stones, often rare and always combined in an unusual way. But, according to legend, the idea was born thanks to a client who detested the too flashy gems and wore early 19th century Berlin iron jewelry.

Today it is Christian Hemmerle who runs the company, together with his wife Yasmin and parents Stefan and Sylveli. The creative approach is ingenious: to treat common materials and precious stones, iron, aluminum, pebbles and moonstones with equal dignity, as well as diamonds and rubies. The result is a mix of rigorous opulence, of severe sensuality to the rhythm of contrasts between colors and surfaces, of opaque and glossy finishes, of geometry and dynamism. And of asymmetries in the nuances.

Anello in bronzo e oro bianco con zaffiro dello Sri Lanka di 11,8 carati

All this without the jaws or points that support the stones being visible. In short, a good dose of technique, which the Hemmerle attribute to an entirely German engineering attitude, but it is not seen. What you notice instead is a certain realism, but of design. The Maison uses techniques from the past, such as the knitting of stones cut in the round on silk, together with innovative systems (for jewelry), such as anodizing aluminum to create new colors.

Orecchini con diamanti e due miniature a smalto del XVIII secolo che raffigurano due dame — Orecchini con diamanti e miniature a smalto del XVIII secolo che raffigurano due dame

Orecchini con oltre 250 diamanti brown su bronzo e oro bianco

Bracciale Harmony ispirato all'Egitto, acquistato nella collezione permanente Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Museum — Bracciale Harmony ispirato all’Egitto, acquistato nella collezione permanente Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Museum

Bracciale Harmony, acquistato dal Victoria and Albert Museum di Londra

Orecchini con due kunziti di 30 carati ciascuna e pavé di zaffiri su argento

Tefaf’s new jewelers

Published on October 16, 2020

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Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754

Many debuts, including two Italians, at Tefaf New York Fall, the prestigious fair of precious and antiques that this year, due to coronavirus, will be online. The two italian news are Gismondi 1754 and Vendorafa. The online fair organized by the European Fine Art Foundation (1-4 November plus a preview 30-31 October, 300 exhibitors) includes a large group of famous jewelers, such as Hong Kong artist-designer Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Cindy Chao, Taffin, Otto Jakob. We talk about it in another article. But it’s also interesting see who the new jewelers are.

One of the novelties is represented by Gismondi 1454, which will present the Genesi collection, with jewels that are inspired by the helical spiral of the Nautilus shell. In fact, the Maison is from Genoa, a seaside city. The jewels, in fact, are inspired by the fossils seen by the Ceo Massimo Gismondi at the Natural History Museum. The jewels are composed of 18k rose gold strands that describe soft ellipses, paved with diamonds and topped and drop-shaped white ceramic with gold edges.

The other Italian brand debuting, the Maison of Valenza Vendorafa, offers its classic gold creations, such as the Onda ring. The jewel features a typical Vendorafa workmanship, with hammered yellow gold together with a polished finish band and a line of small diamonds on the edge.

Pod ring di Nicholas Liou con un diamante blu-verde e diamanti bianchi

From the East, however, the new entry is Nicholas Lieou, a high-end jewelry designer based in Hong Kong. We already saw her jewels last year in GemGèneve, but theis fair won’t be held this year. Nicholas Lieou started out as an apprentice for London-based jeweler Shaun Leane. And he was also design director for high-end bespoke jewelry for Tiffany & Co. He has recently launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Sotheby’s Diamonds: one of the jewels he presents is the Pod Ring, with a fancy cushion-cut diamond in color 4.40 carat bluish-green surrounded by a pavé of white diamonds on platinum.

Orecchini Pearl Raind di Tatiana Verstraeten

Finally, another new name for Tefaf is that of Tatiana Verstraeten, a Belgian designer who prefers jewels with long fringes, such as the earrings with a shower of pearls of the image on this page. Tatiana practiced at Chanel under the supervision of Karl Lagerfeld and acquired the secrets of French master craftsmen. A year ago she opened a showroom on Place Vendôme and, as if that were not enough, she allocated part of the proceeds from the sale of her fringed earrings to UN Women France, with the aim of promoting gender equality and the emancipation of women. women. Cate Blanchett and Eva Longoria, who bought her jewelry, appreciate it. Federico Graglia

Tatiana Verstraeten. Copyright: gioiellis.com

High jewelery at Pad London

Published on September 30, 2019

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Pad London returns with a group of Maison and high jewelery designer. Here’s who they are ♦ ︎

It’s called Pad London and is the sister of the similar Parisian fair. But this is no less important, at least for jewelry. Indeed, the International Exhibition for Modern Art, Design, Decorative Arts, Photography, Jewelery & Tribal Art (30 September – 6 October 2019) offers the lucky ones who can buy high-end jewelery pieces some masterpieces by selected Maison or designers.

In Berkeley Square, London, United Kingdom, 69 major international galleries will be displaying pieces of contemporary design, glass and ceramics, and collectible jewelry. Like those of the French designer Lorenz Bäumer, former artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s fine jewelry. But also by Boghossian, Fabio Salini, Taffin, Elisabetta Cipriani Wearable Art, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, Karry Berreby, Glenn Spiro, Hemmerle, Objet Emotion, Valery Demure, The Beautiful Watch, Suzanne Syz, Walid Akkad.

Pad London
Berkeley Square, Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX
PHONE
+33 (0) 1 53 30 85 20
From 30 September to 6 October 2019
OPENING TIME
Monday: collectors preview 11: 00-20: 00, VIP opening Tuesday 11: 00-20: 00, from Wednesday to Saturday 11: 00-20: 00, Sunday 11: 00-18: 00
www.pad-fairs.com

Anna Hu con la collana Monet Waterlilies

Bracciale di ebano, argento, oro bianco e tsavorite di Hemmerle

Hemmerle’s new extraordinary creations

Published on March 31, 2019

Showroom

Hemmerle, orecchini in alluminio anodizzato con cavità in cui sono inserite acquamarine

The extraordinary creations of Hemmerle, queen of high jewelry design ♦ ︎

It is not a case when a marriage lasts 22 years. And if, more, the union is not conditioned by juridical or religious ties, the marriage is even more valid. Indeed, it is no coincidence that the German Maison Hemmerle has been present for 22 years at the Tefaf in Maastricht, a refined appointment for those who love antiquity but, more generally, art. Here only a few jewelers arrive, only those who make their production a work that is on a par with a painting or a sculpture. And Hemmerle is one of them.

The Munich jeweler is an extraordinary creator of refined unique pieces.

Born 126 years ago, Hemmerle is still managed by the family, in particular by Christian Hemmerle, and produces around 200 pieces a year. Unique pieces not only for the style, but also for the use of surprising materials and cutting-edge manufacturing. For example, aluminum. Thanks to an anodizing process, Hemmerle creates an aluminum with shades that recall the colors found in nature in precious stones. The earrings presented at Tefaf that look like small blue asteroids, for example, were made of anodized aluminum and aquamarine.

Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro, diamanti — Orecchini ispirati al pittore svizzero Paul Klee. Argento annerito, filo in oro bianco, diamanti

But Hemmerle also manages to ennoble silver, perhaps in alloy with other metals to make it unrecognizable. At Tefaf, for example, the brand presented two blackened silver earrings inspired by a 1927 painting by Paul Klee, Schwarzer Fürst, with a stylized face in which the eye is a diamond. But it makes jewels also with titanium, a light and sturdy metal, but difficult to work with: is one of the Maison’s favorite materials. Truly a unique case in the world of jewelry. Alessia Mongrando

Orecchini di giada su argento annerito e oro

Orecchini in bronzo, oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in alluminio, oro bianco e tsavorite

Anello in bronzo, oro bianco e diamante brown

The new jewels of Tefaf

Published on March 10, 2019

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Wallace Chan, collana Wheel of Time, con perle del Mare del Sud, diamanti gialli, zaffiri, diamanti bianchi e titanio

The sophisticated jewels of Maastricht’s Tefaf are back, from Wallace Chan to Hemmerle ♦ ︎

Tefaf is back (Maastricht, March 16-24), a fun fair for art lovers, antiques and even jewels. And of the 279 exhibitors participating in Tefaf Maastricht 2019, 40 are new. Here, in any case, are showed only ancient and valuable jewels, or contemporary, but signed by prestigious designers that is better defined as artists. A new entry, for example, is that of Cindy Chao, of which we have already written.

Read also: Cindy Chao’s jewels at Tefaf

Another great oriental master will also be present: Wallace Chan. His jewelry-sculpture are pieces sought after by collectors and almost always leave open-mouthed. Chan is a master sculptor and jeweler from Hong Kong, who started working in a gemstone workshop in 1974 and is now a jewelry deity. Suffice it to say that he invented a particular method of working, the Wallace Cut: a carving system of stones that creates figures, for example a face, inside the stone itself. Another of Wallace Chan’s prerogatives is its ability to work with titanium, a lightweight material, but very difficult to use. Yet the Chinese master manages to shape the titanium like a silver leaf. And it’s not over: a couple of years ago announced the creation of Wallace Chan Porcelain, a ceramic five times stronger than steel, which can be modeled in a wide range of colors and shapes. In short, a kind of Leonardo da Vinci of jewelery.
Next to his jewels you will find, as always, those of another innovative Maison, Hemmerle, which combines refined and rare pearls, green diamonds, gold and platinum to materials such as iron, aluminum or copper, in a simple and refined design. Exactly the opposite of Chan, but equally stimulating. Federico Graglia

Wallace Chan, Parure Eyes of Infinity, con alessandrite, occhio di gatto, rubini, granati demantoidi, zaffiri gialli, diamanti fancy

Wallace Chan, spilla Bellezza celeste, in titanio, zaffiri

Hemmerle, anello in alluminio con tanzanite

Hemmerle, anello in bronzo e oro bianco con diamante fancy

The jewels of Tefaf in New York

Published on October 23, 2018

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Spilla a forma di salamandra di epoca vittoriana, in oro, diamanti, granato demantoide

The Tefaf returns to New York for the Fall with so many exceptional jewels ♦ ︎

The Tefaf is back in New York, the great event dedicated to design, antiques and precious objects, like jewels. Born in Maastricht, the fair has long since expanded its appointments with two events in the American city, in spring and autumn (October 27-31 in 2018). The reason is clear: New York offers the ideal setting in America for a fair like Tefaf, which remains the benchmark for the European market. In short, it is a point of arrival for traders and lovers of beauty, from painting (with works until 1920) to jewelry, but in this case it is not only vintage.

At Tefaf in New York there are pieces of Maison like Cartier, Otto Jakob, Hemmerle or designers like Suzanne Belperron and René Lalique.

Bracciale art déco in platino con diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiri, rubini, smalto

In addition to the commercial aspect, cultural events are also scheduled at Tefaf, such as a conference on Sunday, October 28th, which focuses on Men and Jewelry: does an earring have gender? Why, in short, are the jewels in the West seen so often as a feminine art form? Meanwhile, the Metropolitan Museum prepares an exhibition entitled Jewelry: The Body Transformed. In short, for those who happen in New York it is an opportunity to consider the jewels also from a cultural point of view. Margherita Donato

Collana di René Lalique in argento dorato, oro, vetro e oro smaltato

Hemmerle, anello in argento, oro bianco e diamanti

Cartier, orecchini in corallo, diamanti, platino

Spilla Fiore di Suzanne Belperron, in calcedonio, diamanti, zaffiri su oro bianco

Orecchini a grappolo di Cartier con turchesi e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti con diamanti e smeraldi colombiani

Jewels for collectors at the Pad London

Published on September 30, 2018

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Pad London is home to collectible jewelry and exceptional designers. Here is who exposes ♦ ︎

On the Thames there is a design festival with the 12th edition of Pad London (1-7 October 2018). And where there is design there is also jewelry. While most of the exhibition space is dedicated to the proposals of 68 important galleries including art, design, decorative arts, tribal art and antiques, a significant part of the Pad is dedicated to jewelery, collectors’ items. Here are the jewelery brands: Walid Akkad (France), Lorenz Bäumer (France), Karry Berreby (France), G. (United Kingdom), Hemmerle (Germany), Ma Tei (France), Object D’Émotion – Valery Demure (United Kingdom), Siegelson (USA), Suzanne Syz (Switzerland).

Collectible jewelry, wearable art and vintage jewelry and contemporary crafts, is gaining huge success at international fairs.

Una passata edizione di Pad London

For this edition the fair has therefore expanded its offer with four new specialized galleries. The French designer Lorenz Bäumer, former artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s high jewelery and creator of collections for Chanel, exhibits architectural pieces that reveal his training as an engineer and his passion for poetry, nature and color. The Lebanese designer Walid Akkad offers minimal jewelry, reflecting his quest for timeless beauty and impeccable work. Glenn Spiro, English master jeweler and former Christie’s expert, brings his spectacular designs inspired by nature and demonstrates his innovative work with titanium. Objet d’Émotion – Valéry Demure, on the other hand, brings together a selection of vintage gems and contemporary creations of emerging talents such as Melanie Georgacopoulos, Francesca Villa, Polly Galles and Nadia Morgenthaler.

There is also Siegelson’s antique jewelry, blue-chip jewelry as an outstanding 1951 Suzanne Belperron suite on sale for the first time ever and an iconic Art Moderne bracelet by Jean Després since 1931.

Finally, Hemmerle, Ma Tei and Suzanne Syz present their coveted contemporary creations while Karry Berreby exhibits vintage and contemporary collectibles. Federico Graglia

Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Lumiére Blanche

The jewels of Tefaf

Published on March 11, 2018

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Girocollo Glycines di Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Oro, tormalina intagliata, opale intagliato, rubini, granato

The jewels return to the Tefaf of Maastricht. Here are some of the most interesting pieces ♦ ︎
Tefaf is back (Maastricht, 10-18 March). Founded in 1988, the Dutch city fair is considered the world’s premier appointment for art, antiques, design and special jewelery. Although it has recently multiplied with two events in spring and autumn in New York, the original Tefaf in Maastricht is still the most awaited event. Managed as a non-profit foundation, Tefaf boasts a tradition of masterpieces in every category of art, design and antiques, but also of Haute Joaillerie. And even this year the strong pieces of jewelry are not lacking. You can find very different jewels, from a gold pendant, emeralds and enamel made in Spain in the eighteenth century, to a ring by the Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro, or the bracelet with matching ring of Cartier in 18k yellow gold, amethyst and turquoise , dated between 1966 and 1969. But there is no shortage of contemporary jewels, such as earrings with smoky quartz, brown diamonds, bronze and white gold from Hemmerle. It’s also by the refined German Maison is the Harmony bracelet with aquamarine, aluminum and white gold with a diameter of about 8 centimeters, another piece of great design.
Among other things, more in general, Tefaf boasts a great deal of control over the quality, authenticity and condition of the objects proposed: an aspect not to be underestimated when buying vintage pieces. Federico Graglia

Hemmerle, bracciale Harmony con acquamarina, alluminio e oro bianco

Hemmerle, orecchini con quarzo fumé, diamanti brown e oro bianco

Hemmerle, spilla con zaffiro, ferro e oro bianco

Hemmerle, anello in rame, oro bianco e zaffiro

Arnaldo Pomodoro, anello in oro bianco e giallo, con una sfera traforata

Cartier, bracciale e anello in oro giallo 18 carati, ametista, turchese (1966-1969)

Oro smeraldi e smalto 6 x 45 cm 2.4 x 1.8 in — Spilla spagnola del Settecento in oro, smeraldi e smalto

Spilla Calabrone firmata Fabergé con diamanti, rubini e perle

Wonders at Tefaf

Published on October 26, 2017

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Wallace Chan, orecchini in titanio con diamanti bianchi e gisalli, tsaforiti, granati, smeraldi

At Tefaf in New York the wonders of jewelery from yesterday and today ♦ ︎
Successful things are replicating. For example, fairs such as Tefaf, an institution founded in 1988 in Maastricht, Netherlands, and soon became the most renowned Art and Antique Fair in Europe. And, last year, also in America, with the New York Autumn Edition, at Park Avenue Armory. In 2017 there is the second test of relocating Tefaf in the States (from 28 October to 1 November). As with the Maastricht edition, most of the pieces exhibited include works of art, antique furniture, and antique furniture. But there are also old and modern jewels, all of the highest quality.
For example, Siegelson presents Cartier art pieces and signed by Suzanne Belperron. But, like in the European edition, there are also today’s designers, such as German Hemmerle, or the Chinese jeweler-artist Wallace Chan, who, alongside a high technical virtuosity design, also uses patented systems to work with titanium. Among the exhibited works, for example, there are the Wonders of Life earrings, which recall a flower blooming by a pine, with roots made of diamonds and emeralds. A green light shines from the bulb made up of purple titanium cheeks, while pink sapphires link the stem of the plant to a white diamond flower. Federico Graglia

Otto Jakob, orecchini in oro giallo parzialmente ossidato

Wallace Chan, orecchini in titanio con diamanti bianchi e gialli, tsavoriti, granati, smeraldi

Wallace Chan, anello in titanio con rubino a forma di esagono e zaffiri rosa

Van Cleef & Arpels, spilla e orecchini in platino, diamanti e zaffiri

Hemmerle, orecchini in oro bianco con argento e peridoti

Hemmerle, anello in bronzo e oro bianco con zaffiro gialli

Hemmerle, orecchini in bronzo e oro con zaffiri gialli

Hemmerle, orecchini con giada, diamanti, argento, oro bianco

Castellani, collana in oro, perle e rubini. Roma, 1880

The Pad of London’s novelties

Published on October 4, 2017

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Anello Vuoi una mentina? Di Suzanne Syz, con tormalina Paraiba, oro, smalto, diamanti

The Pad of London with vintage jewelry, but also with modern design. Here is a selection ♦ ︎
Here is another appointment for art lovers, antiques and jewels, vintage or modern: the Pad of London. In the heart of Mayfair, the chic quarter of the British capital, the Pad is London’s premier exhibition for art, design and decorative arts of the twentieth century. Many galleries, but also single jewelery Maison, want to be present at the Pad to show the best of the selected visitors. It has its own boutique structure: it’s like a concentrate of cultural and wealth at the same time. This year the fair takes place from 3 to 8 October at Berkeley Square W1. There are also jewels. Some, vintage ones are shown by antiquety signatures such as Siegelson, which this year presents valuable pieces of Cartier’s of Thirties. But there are also design signatures like German Hemmerle or Swiss Suzanne Syz: super-modern jewelery, for true connoisseurs, of great class. Or the London-based artist and designer Eliane Fattal, who has collaborated with SJ Phillips, the antique jewelry mecca for 2011, to create unique, historic and modern pieces. It presents resurrected jewelry as contemporary, wearable and sometimes transformable pieces: flowers, leaves, insects, butterflies and animals that have no rivals in their genre. Federico Graglia

Bracciale Art Dèco di Cartier, 1922. Corallo, onice, diamanti

Collana di Cartier, 1935. Diamanti e zaffiri

Eliane Fattal, spilla in oro e diamanti a forma di rosa

Anello di Hemmerle, in bronzo, oro bianco e diamante fancy yellow

Collana presentata da Ma Tei con cristallo di rocca, bronzo

Hemmerle, orecchini in bronzo, diamanti, oro bianco e zirconi

Hemmerle, orecchini in alluminio, oro bianco e diamanti

Hemmerle still amazes

Published on June 27, 2017

Showroom

Orecchini in oOrecchini in oro bianco, argento annerito e diamanti. Photo: Bernhard Rampf, Courtesy Hemmerlero bianco, argento annerito e diamanti

Hemmerle’s High Jewelry still Surprises at Masterpiece London ♦ ︎
A visit to Maximilianstrasse 14, Munich, always surprises you. It’s the adress of the high-jewelery of Germany, under the signs of Hemmerle. Specialist in the refined combination of materials (such as aluminum, copper, wood with precious stones), enclosed in simple and precise shapes, Hemmerle conceives and produces jewelery outside the ordinary.

Only a public of connoisseurs, with noble tastes and, of course, proper economic resources, is able to appreciate the jewelry of the company founded in 1893 by the brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle, now led by Joseph’s nephew Joseph Stefan Hemmerle. He is the manager of the company with his wife Sylveli, while the fourth generation, with Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, is responsible for managing product design and development. For example, the novelties presented at the Masterpiece London 2017, which include a pair of white gold earrings, diamonds and blackened silver. Alessia Mongrando

Bracciale in rame e oro bianco con granati, 2013

Orecchini in oro bianco e argento con smeraldi

Anello in rame, oro rosa e granato mandarino, 2016

Anello in bronzo, oro bianco e diamanti, 2016

orecchini in aluminio, oro bianco , tormalina e zaffiri, 2016

Orecchini in oro bianco, argento e turchesi

Orecchini in oro bianco, bronzo e zaffiri

Collier in rame e oro rosa, con topazi, granati mandarino, corniola

Hemmerle still amazes

Published on March 20, 2017

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Orecchini in rame, oro bianco, smalto, zaffiri, zirconi

Hemmerle still amazes at Tefaf: the refined combinations of Egyptian earrings, bracelets, aluminum and precious stones.
Innovation, courage, imagination. What other definition is lacking to describe Hemmerle? Paradoxically a: tradition. It sounds really strange that one of the maison’s creative Maison in the world, to the limits of recklessness, is also the fruit of a centuries-old history. Hemmerle was born in Monaco of Bavaria in 1893. In this year Japan decided to adopt the Gregorian calendar, Rudolf Diesel patented the type of engine that bears his name, and died the writer Guy de Maupassant. In short, in another era.

Two years later the company was already working for Ludwig III of Bavaria, and the imprinting of working on unique pieces, imaginative, unusual, is perhaps the feature that has preserved better. The descendant of the race of goldsmiths elite, Christian Hemmerle, now leads with his wife Yasmin the company famous for its refined creations, such as those who showed during the Tefaf in Maastricht (in a stand designed by the Dutch architect Tom Postma). It’s high jewelry, unusual, where wonderful sapphires can be mounted on an aluminum set, a brown diamond is accompanied with the humble copper, or with earrings in ancient Egyptian style. Giulia Netrese

Orecchini in alluminio, ametista e zaffiro

Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina

Orecchini in rame, oro bianco, zaffiri e tormalina

Hemmerle, bracciale con acquamrina e zaffiri

Orecchini con micro mosaico di rame, oro rosa, zaffiri

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri, demantoidi, zirconi

The Tefaf’s jewels

Published on March 7, 2017

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Van Cleef & Arpels, spilla Camelia con diamanti e zaffiri

The jewels of the Tefaf 2017: from Hemmerle to Belperron, from Cartier to Reza and…
The Tefaf in Maastricht (March 10 to 19) is not only interesting for news by Wallace Chan (we talked about here). One of the most important antiques shows and design in the world, also this year hosts several large pieces of jewelry between art, antiques and design fairs with an evaluation process that it is considered by many to be among the most stringent in the world. At the 275 retailers and designers from 20 countries, there are jewels to be seen, ancient and modern. In addition to those of Chan, for example, they are present design signatures as Otto Jakob and Hemmerle, that uses traditional and unorthodox materials to create his customized parts. Halfway between ancient and modern are the signed pieces Verdura and Belperron, recreated from the original designs of the two famous designers. Do not miss the high jewelry, for example that of Reza, Maison of Place Vendome, that has some stunning pieces. And then Cartier, Lalique, Tiffany … Here are pictures of some of the most interesting pieces. Federico Gragliaù

Cartier, oro, platino, diamanti, zaffiri.Circa 1945

Hemmerle, anello in alluminio e diamante

Marjan Sterk, orecchini d'epoca con opale di fuoco e diamanti — Orecchini d’epoca con opale di fuoco e diamanti

Otto Jacob, orecchini con oro e diamanti

Hemmerle still amazes

Published on November 26, 2016

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Orecchini in oro, argento, con giada e tsavoriti

The new pieces of fine jewelry by German Maison Hemmerle: new and surprising combinations materials.
As they say in German language «high jewelry»? It’s easy: you pronounce Hemmerle. La Maison conducted by Stefan and Christian Hemmerle not only has the courage as lions in presenting new forms, but always hits the mark (ie, produces heart palpitations to the traditionalists), with the use of materials that are not part of the history of jewelery, such as aluminum. Added to this is the quest for novelty in the processing of stones and metals, and the results are amazing. At Tefaf, which was held in October in New York, for example, Hemmerle also presented pieces made with copper, steel, bronze and aluminum, paired with sapphires of Kashmir and blacks or white diamonds, jade and silver, gold and agate. The contrast is strong, but also inspiring. Certainly the Hemmerle jewels, also these new pieces, you either love or hate. Probably those who love modern design, innovative, bold, will tend to appreciate this jewelry that, after all, in some respects reminds one vaguely Bauhaus style. Even the movement of designers and architects in the thirties was viewed with suspicion by the traditionalists. But today is an example of how design can become a work of art. Margherita Donato

Bracciale in legno di olivo, con intrecci in bronzo e diamanti

Orecchini con tormalina, demantoidi, oro e argento, presentati al Tefaf 2015

Mavericks on book

Published on October 2, 2016

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The 17 nonconformists jewelry designer for a collectors book.
All about jewelry. Better, everything about the jewels that have become milestones of masterpieces in the history of jewelry. If you are fond of earrings, rings and necklaces exceptional (and probably take a look every day at gioiellis.com), you can order online the book written by Stellene Volandes, managing editor of Town & Country. The book is a journey through the designer jewelry is published by Rizzoli, 256 pages, and is titled: Jeweler: Masters, Mavericks, and Visionaries of Modern Design (costs $ 85 on Amazon). Under the lens there are the works of 17 masters of the jewel, very different from each other (mavericks, nonconformists), but united by the imagination and ability to transform simple jewelry to wear in small masterpieces. After an introduction by Carolina Herrera, are for example, works of Hemmerle, Giampiero Bodino, Nicholas Varney, James de Givenchy, Judy Geib, Wallace Chan, Elena Votsi, Lauren Adriana, Marie-Helene de Taillac, Suzanne Syz, Muriel Grateau, Mark Davis. Among amazing materials and innovative shapes, stones and extraordinary virtuosity goldsmiths, are images that bring happiness to all the fans. Rudy Serra

Spilla a forma di cavolfiore di Hemmerle

La copertina di Jeweler: Masters, Mavericks, and Visionaries of Modern Design

Orecchini da «Jeweler: Masters, Mavericks, and Visionaries of Modern Design»

Immagine da «Jeweler: Masters, Mavericks, and Visionaries of Modern Design»

Four to Pad

Published on September 26, 2016

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Hemmerle: orecchini realizzati a mano con zaffiri, rame, oro bianco

Four signatures of the jewel at Pad in London, the largest trade show dedicated to luxury design.
In London the Pad comes back and turns ten. For lovers of antiques, decorative art, sculpture, photography and, finally, jewelry, will host over 65 international exhibitors. The jewels are represented by four companies: Karry Berreby (France), Louisa Guinness (UK), Hemmerle (Germany), Siegelson (Usa). In practice, only Hammerle is a Maison that produces jewelry, while the other three are fine retailers of antiques or vintage. There are, however, reasons of interest, as you can see from the pictures on this page.
The exhibition dedicated to the design started in 2007 with only about twenty exhibitors, the most important international operators. But it has expanded over time. The Pad has decided to support the rise of design as a high-end art and in 2009 expanded its global reach with the introduction of modern art, photography, tribal art and jewelry, referring to his French roots, with the fair sister, the Pad Paris. For jewelery, Louisa Guinness works with the most important sculptors and painters today to create jewelry. Hemmerle is a jeweler that focuses on originality of its proposal, with an avant-garde design in spite of the tradition dating back to 1893. A single piece of Hemmerle may require more than 500 hours of work and can spend years waiting to find the perfect colored stones to complete a piece.
Lee Siegelson proposes special jewels of the nineteenth century, the historic Art Nouveau and Art Deco, up to contemporary designer pieces. It is active since 1920 and has earned a solid reputation. Kerry Berreby, finally, is a famous Parisian Maison for his sculpture jewels and his discoveries of unique works by Van Cleef Andrew Grima, Cartier, David Webb, Boivin. Federico Graglia

The Masterpiece London jewelry

Published on June 26, 2016

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Antiques, but also many extraordinary jewels: Masterpiece London is the leading international exhibition for art and design, which attracts collectors from all over the world. Among the 154 stands of selected exhibitors you will find everything from ancient statue to contemporary jewelry. All this, however, a high level, very high. All works are for sale and certified by international experts to ensure the origin and quality. Are, for example, jewelery signed by Suzanne Belperron, Castellani and even Salavator Dali, or famous Maison as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Chase, Verdura, Hemmerle, Boghossian, Somlo, SJ Phillips, Véronique Bamps, Chatila and Grima. Do not think, though, to find the same jewelry that you can buy in jewelry. They are a breed apart. And there will also Wallace Chan, who will debut in the UK just for Masterpiece London: the Hong Kong designer will present the 2016 Silk Necklace created especially for the exhibition, consisting of 54 diamonds, 124 pink tourmalines, colored diamonds, sapphires pink and white agate. Federico Graglia
Masterpiece London
30 June-6 July 2016
Royal Hospital Chelsea, South Grounds
www.masterpiecefair.com
Hours: 11: 00-21: 00

Audouard (circa 1850). Spilla mazzolino di fiori in oro smaltato insieme con vecchi diamanti taglio brillante e granati nei boccioli di rosa

Da Boghart, orecchini con oro e diamanti

Bracciale di Boghossian, diamanti e perle

Bracciale Giacinto di Fulco di Verdura, oro, platino, zaffiri, diamanti

Ciondoli a forma di pesce di Fabergé, oro e legno

Spilla-pendente di Boucheron con citrini

Bracciale in oro giallo con due tigri, diamanti fancy, onice, smeraldi (gli occhi)

Collana di René Bonvin, oro giallo, disegnato come una catena, cavo flessibile che sospende una frangia di nappe con diamanti taglio brillante. Consegnata nel 1945 per la principessa Irene di Grecia

Collana di diamanti e acquamarine di Van Cleef & Arpels

Orecchini Persistenza del Suono, di Salvator Dalì

Suzanne Belperron, bracciale con citrini

Castellani, circa 1880. Collana in stile revival archeologico in oro giallo, rubini cabochon taglio e perle naturali. Una collana simile dalla tenuta del nipote di Augusto Castellani appartiene alle collezioni dei Musei Capitolini di Roma