Aquamarine at x-ray

All you need to know about one of the gems most loved by jewelry: the aquamarine, which is also the stone of the month of March ♦

The aquamarine is one of the stones most used in jewelry. Major brands of jewelry have included it in their collections. Yet it is little known by the general public that ignores the quality and, above all, the features.

Anello Lyla's Bow con diamanti acquamarina brasiliana
Vania Leles, Lyla’s Bow ring with Brazilian aquamarine diamonds

Identikit. Transparent and crystalline: not by chance is called aquamarine that glitter even under lowlight conditions. A quality that makes it a “star” of fine jewelry. Like emerald, is a stone that belongs to the beryl family. The structure, however, is very different from the green gem: the iron impurities inside give that deep azure blue color, while chromium and vanadium tinged with green emerald. Almost always, the aquamarine is without inclusions: whether appear the star effect or the one called cat eyes it becomes invaluable. Its hardness allows jewelers to experiment with innovative cuts and, in fact, has been used for the Color du Temps necklace from the Peau d’âne collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, for the jewelry designed by Tiffany in the movie The Great Gatsby, for the Bulgari Serpente bought by Justin Bieber during the charity auction at Cannes Film Festival.

Pomellato, bracciale Pom Pom in oro rosa e argento con 729 acquamarina taglio brillante per un totale di oltre 17 carati
Pomellato, Pom Pom bracelet in rose gold and silver with 729 brilliant cut aquamarine for a total of over 17 carats

Color. the range of colors of aquamarine is very narrow: blue, slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, blue-green, blue. The rarest shades are dark blue and slightly greenish blue. In general, the more intense is blue, greater is the stone value: that’s why the most common ones tend to light green.

Acquamarina allo stato naturale
Aquamarine in its natural state

Treatment. Aquamarine is a mineral that is almost always the subject of a treatment to make it more pleasant. Much of the aquamarine in its natural state, in fact, has a blue-green color. For this reason the stone is heated to a rather high temperature. This process can remove the greenish color from the material and transform the hue of the stone into a pleasant deep blue. So if they tell you that an aquamarine is absolutely natural you do not have to believe it. But this does not mean that the result can’t be appreciated.

Anello con acquamarina taglio cuscino, lato superiore . Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere
Lydia Courteille, ring with cushion cut aquamarine, upper side. Blue titanium, aquamarine, sapphires, maidenhair quartz

Provenance. The best known reserves of aquamarine are those in Minas Gerais, whose buds have a distinctive deep blue color. Always in Brazil there is the Santa Maria de Itabira mine with deep blue, stones which are a favorite choice of gemologists. Other deposits are exploited on an industrial scale in the Urals, Nigeria, Madagascar, Mozambique and Pakistan. As a rule, the color is saturated if weigh more than 5 carats, while the smaller stones are lighter, with the exception of some specimens from Madagascar, known for a very strong hues even if under 5 carats. That’s why it costs more compared to other stones of the same color, but as higher dimensions.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti
Sanalitro, ring with aquamarine and diamonds
Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. orecchini Seven Leaves con due aquamarine oval per un totale di 14,89 carati e diamanti taglio brillante
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Leaves earrings with two oval aquamarines for a total of 14.89 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina
Hemmerle, earrings in white gold, aluminium, silver, aquamarine
Spilla con acquamarina, oro bianco, diamanti
Naomi Sarna, brooch with aquamarine, white gold, diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Mirco Visconti, ring in white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Orecchini Trilliant, con oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Fadoua Hueb, Trilliant earrings, with white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Fraleoni, anello con acquamarina
Fraleoni, ring with aquamarine

All about amethyst

The stone of February is the amethyst. But this gem also it like in the other 11 months of the year. Discover the qualities of the amethyst in this article ♦
Has always been considered a sort of talisman: Sumerians and Babylonians and Egyptians wore amulets made with amethyst for protection, and for the ancient Chinese was a material with which to store spices, healing balms and ointments. In nature this variety of quartz is found inside of stony masses and quarries, geodes, crystals containing groupings. One of the most famous is the one discovered in Brazil in the area of ​​Rio Grande Sol, 30 meters long and 15 meters completely covered with amethyst crystals width, so large that it must be dug in the ground. Amethyst is also the stone of February.

Anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri
Isabelle Langlois, anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri

The color range. It is truly remarkable, ranging from light pink to deep purple with many intermediate shades, as the example lavender or lilac, christened Rose de France, or the darkest shade almost bluish shades from red or pink typical of the stones from Russia , whose mines are now exhausted. Then there are amethysts Uruguay and Arizona with a deep blue-purple, the Zambian light purple. All owe their color to iron impurities. Some are two-tone, gold and purple, are called ametryne, and consist of quartz citrine and amethyst. Others, are green and are baptized prisiolite.

Orecchini con ametista e diamanti
Orecchini con ametista e diamanti by Michele della Valle

Origin. There are many mineral sources, practically in almost all over the world, but the most important producers are Brazil, Uruguay, Madagascar and Zambia. A good quality stones are also found in the United States, South Korea and Austria.

Anello Sissi con agata intagliata e ametista
Anello Sissi di Sanalitro con agata intagliata e ametista

Rating. Until the 18th century it was considered a precious gem as much as a diamond, a sapphire, an emerald or a ruby. The most valuable specimens came from the Ural Mountains of Russia, but the discovery of large deposits in Brazil and other countries has largely decreased the price. Currently the main evaluation criterion is the color: the more intense and more uniform the quality. Attention to the nuances, must be neither brown nor gray.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli

Purity. It is a gem of type II, so it can have slight inclusions visible to the naked eye but if its dark color hides, it becomes more difficult in the pink variety, lavender or green. It is often found in large, it can be up to 20 carats, and is almost always natural because the heat treatment and thus the cost of such a convenient stone does not make sense.

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista
Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista

Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014
Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014

Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane
Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane

The rare stone that few know: csarite or zultanite

A fascinating stone, but rare and little known: the csarite or zultanite. It costs like an emerald and can change color ♦ ︎

It is called zultanite or csarite and it is for gemmologists a variety of diaspore (not to be confused with jasper), ie aluminum hydroxide. The csarite is extracted in a single mine in the world, in Turkey: for this reason it is a rather rare stone. The name, zultanite or csarite, is a brand: it has not been established by gemologists, but by the company that owns the mine, the Milenyum Mining. It was discovered only at the beginning of the nineteenth century and the difficulty of processing has delayed its success: only a small part of the mineral is usable for jewelery and it is difficult to turn it into a stone with facets. Today, however, csarite has been used in jewelry also worn by many Hollywood stars for the Oscar night.

Anello con csarite
Anello con csarite

Features. The csarite is a shimmering stone, with shades ranging from yellow to cognac, pink or red. The most intense red hues are caused by high concentrations of manganese. It is also one of the few gems that can change color, along with sapphires, garnets and alexandrite.
Hardness. The csarite has an average hardness, at 6.5-7 on the Mohs scale. Basically, it is a hard stone like the tanzanite or peridot, perfectly able to be used in jewelry.

Anello in oro rosa e csarite
Anello in oro rosa e csarite

The name. As we said, Zultanite or csarite are registered trademarks of the Turkish company that extracts the stone. But the name of the mineral from which it derives, the diaspore, comes instead from the Greek word diaspora, which means scattering. And this because the gem seems to disperse the light and the glow.
At the tops. Some time ago, the mining company announced a gem of this 121.65-carat pear-shaped mineral, cut from a rough stone of about 430 grams, worth $ 1 million. It’s a record. Previously, the largest faceted csarite, always pear-shaped, weighed 88.49 carats. The only other csarite stones of similar size were cabochon cut gems, which have the cat-eye effect, with color change. The zultanite on the market has a price similar to that of emeralds.

Anello in oro bianco con zultanite e diamanti
Evelyn Huang, anello in oro bianco con zultanite e diamanti
Anello con csarite e diamanti
Anello con csarite e diamanti
Anello con csarite taglio a navette e diamanti
Anello con csarite taglio a navette e diamanti
Pendente con csarite e diamanti
Pendente con csarite e diamanti
Pietra di csarite o zultanite
Pietra di csarite o zultanite
Estrazione del minerale
Estrazione del minerale
Csarite a forma di pera da 121.65 carati
Csarite a forma di pera da 121.65 carati

Everything about tsavorite

The tsavorite is already more 50 years old: it was discovered in 1967. The story of the tsavorite is very adventurous, and it also includes a murder ♦ ︎

History. In 1967, in Tanzania, Scottish geologist Campbell R. Bridges was walking in the countryside when a buffalo attack him. To save life Campbell jumped into a well where he noticed a bright green rock. He was not able to pull a sample, as he was busy tu save himself. But the curiosity prompted him to do research and seven years later he discovered a gem similar to emeralds: the tsavorite. Mines in Tanzania, however, were nationalized in the 1970s, and Campbell Bridges moved his research to Kenya. In an wild area he again found a tsavorite reservoir.

Orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, tsavoriti
Neha Dani, 18k gold, diamond, tsavorite earrings

Convinced that it was a precious stone, he built a house on top of a tree to defend himself from the fierce animals and enlisted a python to watch the first gems he had found. Later in his estate he also put leopards instead watchdogs. But he did not help avoid his death: in 2009, at the age of 71, Campbell was killed in an ambush by some twenty bandits who wanted to exploit his mining concession. Today, the extration of the tsavorite is entrusted to his son, Bruce Bridges, but goes on a lot of difficulty.

Campbell Bridges e la casa sull'albero che è stata la sua prima base
Campbell Bridges and the treehouse that was his first base

Features. The tsavorite is named after the Tzavo National Game Park on the border between Kenya and Tanzania where it was discovered for the first time and where the only known mines are located. It is a green stone, from a gemmological point of view it is a variety of garnet, particularly grossularia. The merit of spreading tsavorite is Tiffany, who in the 1970s began to make it known: Campbell Bridge was a consultant geologist at the American Maison. It was precisely Henry Platt, chairman of Tiffany, to propose the name of tsavorite to the still unknown stone.

Una spilla di Tiffany in oro bianco con tsavorite, diamanti e perle
A white gold Tiffany brooch with tsavorite, diamonds and pearls

Color. The stone goes from pale green to a very intense green, very bright in all shades. Like all the other garnets, the tsavorite has a high refractive index of light. Unlike other stones, it does not undergo treatments to make it brighter, not heated and not even immersed in oil. Its hardness is similar to that of emerald, but it is more resistant to shocks. Compared with emeralds it is also easier to cut and less susceptible to accidental damage. It is particularly useful for the so-called invisible embedding. Usually the stones are small, it is rare to find rough stones larger than 5 carats. Its price is rising steadily.

Anello in platino con tsavorite e diamanti
Platinum ring with tsavorite and diamonds
Hemmerle, anello in alluminio con tsavorite
Hemmerle, aluminum ring with tsavorite
Selim Mouzannar, orecchini con tsavoriti, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Selim Mouzannar, earrings with tsavorites, ivory, enamel, diamonds
Anello in oro rosa, argento annerito, tsavorite, zaffiri gialli, diamanti
Arteau, ring in rose gold, blackened silver, tsavorite, yellow sapphires, diamonds
Valerio, anello con rubini e tsavorite
Shaill Jhaveri, Valerio, ring with rubies and tsavorite
Bracciale Butterfly in oro nero, opali, tsavoriti, diamanti neri, bianchi e champagne
Wendy Yue, Butterfly bracelet in black gold, opals, tsavorites, black, white and champagne diamonds
Michele della Valle, collana con smeraldi e tsavoriti a forma di edera
Michele della Valle, necklace with emeralds and ivy-shaped tsavorites
Lydia Courteille, anello in oro rodiato, diamanti gialli, zaffiri, tsavoriti e onice
Lydia Courteille, ring in rhodium-plated gold, yellow diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites and onyx

All about the tanzanite




It is blue like sapphire, precious like an emerald, desired like a ruby: can you recognize a tanzanite, stone of the month of December? And can you tell why it is called that? Read here ♦

From the name, tanzanite, it is easy to guess the origin of the December birthstone: Tanzania, a country in Africa. Linked to the Masai culture since ancient times for its intense blue color, this gem is considered sacred by that warrior people. Its name is rather recent, because it was coined in 1969 by Henry Platt, vice-president of Tiffany, who launched it on the international market. Today tanzanite is highly appreciated for its intense color and is used by many jewelers.

Wallace Chan, anello con tanzanite da 22 carati, lapislazzuli, diamanti e zaffiri
Wallace Chan, anello con tanzanite da 22 carati, lapislazzuli, diamanti e zaffiri

Characteristics: from a mineral point of view it is a zoisite, while from a gemological point of view it is the unique color that makes it so interesting. In fact, each crystal has blue, red-violet and bronze tones depending on the amount of chrome and vanadium present in it. The shade of the stone is the combination of these three colors. Because the deep blue is the most valuable, at the time of cutting you look for the angle with the strongest blue color. But the operation must be done by expert hands, because it is a stone with a split in one direction and is easy to chip, as it is relatively soft. The different nuances are also linked to the type of light with which the stone is illuminated. The blues appear more evident when tanzanite is viewed under fluorescent light, the purple hues are more easily seen under incandescent lighting.

Cartier, bracciale Flora and Fauna con perline in tanzanite, becco in ossidiana, diamanti e occhi di acquamarina
Cartier, bracciale Flora and Fauna con perline in tanzanite, becco in ossidiana, diamanti e occhi di acquamarina

Color: its famous blue is inimitable. It has a purple tinge and then a purple that is lower than that of amethyst and superior to that of blue sapphire, to which it resembles, even if it is less harsh. All natural stones are heat treated to eliminate the most opaque gray, greenish or brownish tone. There are also yellow, green, orange, pink and bicolor blue-green specimens.

Leyla Abdollahhi, orecchini con tanzanite taglio trillion e diamanti
Leyla Abdollahhi, orecchini con tanzanite taglio trillion e diamanti

Where it is found: tanzanite is extracted in the only deposit in the world, in the Simanjiro area, in the Manyara region, in Tanzania. It is a mining area only 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) long and 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) wide. This is also why the stone is considered very valuable and quite expensive.

Louis Vuitton, bracciale Orangerie des Tuileries. Il blu viola della tanzanite rappresenta le maestose fontane dei giardini delle Tuileries di Parigi e le tsavoriti la vegetazione.
Louis Vuitton, bracciale Orangerie des Tuileries. Il blu viola della tanzanite rappresenta le maestose fontane dei giardini delle Tuileries di Parigi e le tsavoriti la vegetazione.

Evaluation: usually the stone is without inclusions visible to the naked eye and is not even noticed with the magnifying glass: it generally has a good degree of purity. Two important aspects because transparency and absence of inclusions enhance its color.

Margherita Burgener, orecchini con tanzanite taglio goccia e diamanti
Margherita Burgener, orecchini con tanzanite taglio goccia e diamanti
Anello con tanzanite di 35,42 carati, calcedonio e diamanti montati su titanio di Wallace Chan
Anello con tanzanite di 35,42 carati, calcedonio e diamanti montati su titanio di Wallace Chan
Botta gioielli, anello con tanzanite, rubini e zaffiri gialli
Botta gioielli, anello con tanzanite, rubini e zaffiri gialli
Orecchini in oro giallo, tanzanite (44,72 carati), zaffiri rosa, perle naturali, diamanti
Arunashi, orecchini in oro giallo, tanzanite (44,72 carati), zaffiri rosa, perle naturali, diamanti
Sofragem, anello con tanzanite cabochon e diamanti
Sofragem, anello con tanzanite cabochon e diamanti
Mattioli, anello in oro rosa della collezione Rêve_r
Mattioli, anello in oro rosa e tanzanite della collezione Rêve_r
Tiffany, bracciale Peacok, con tanzanite ovale di 19.41carati, tormaline e diamanti
Tiffany, bracciale Peacok, con tanzanite ovale di 19.41carati, tormaline e diamanti
Pasquale Bruni collana Ghirlanda con tanzanite
Pasquale Bruni collana Ghirlanda con tanzanite
Anello di Dior con tanzanite
Anello di Dior con tanzanite
Orecchini con tanzaniti e diamanti
Orecchini con tanzaniti e diamanti







All About topaz

All about topaz, one of the most mysterious stones. It is also the stone of the month of November ♦

It is the stone of the month of November (with citrine), but the topaz is also one of the gems coveted since antiquity. There is, however, a point against him: if it is blue shade is often confused with other stones less valuable, as aquamarine and apatite. Other times, the topaz is mistaken for smoky quartz or citrine. Care must be taken, therefore, because often a simple quartz is sold as topaz. And to say that the topaz can be just as precious as diamonds or sapphires.

Bracciale con diamanti, topazio, acquamarina, della collezione Hortus Deliciarum
Bracelet with diamonds, topaz, aquamarine, from the Hortus Deliciarum collection

The name. It’s called topaz for centuries. But what does the name? According to some, the term dates back to a small island in the Red Sea, Topazos. Here the Romans, according to this version, extracted the stones called, precisely, Topazos. Too bad, in real world they are not on topaz on island, but the stones are now classified as peridot. So much so that the island nowadays has changed its name: it is called Zabargad, which in Arabic means just peridot. The misunderstanding, however, is not solved. So? Another version traces the name topaz to Sanskrit, the classical language of ancient India. In Sanskrit, the word topas means fire. The mystery continues.

Anello con un topazio da 30,96 carati e diamanti su oro rosa 18 carati
Ring with a 30.96 carat topaz and diamonds in 18k rose gold

Composition. The topaz is from a geological point of view a silicate mineral of aluminum and fluorine. It is crystallized in prism shape, ending in pyramidal faces. Chemically, the aluminum silicate is highly similar in structure to the zircon. In theory, the topaz is a mineral allocromatico, that is pure is colorless. In fact, it is often found with traces of chromium, manganese or iron. These elements are those that stain the topaz, turning red, pink, blue-green, blue (natural), pink-orange, yellow-brown, yellow-orange (cherry), yellow, colorless.

Orecchini con topazi rosa e diamanti
Earrings with pink topaz and diamonds

Where is it. The topaz brown, yellow, orange, cherry, red and pink, are located in Brazil and Sri Lanka. The pink topaz found in Pakistan and Russia. It is a mineral rich enough (there is even one that weighs 300 kilograms), an aspect that keeps a relatively low price.

Anello in oro rosa con topazi giallo e marrone, onice
Rose gold ring with yellow and brown topaz, onyx

Characteristics. Sometimes the topaz has inclusions equivalents: according to experts, in some blue topaz you can have even the impression of a sort of floating. Attention: the color of the natural stone tends to fade in the sunlight. For this reason, a lot of topaz are treated. In some cases they are heated up to about 450 degrees celsius. In this case the topaz brown-orange get pink. Or become colorless. Another system is the radiation. Exposed to radiation from cobalt 60, topazes that are colorless or pale color, acquire a deeper shade. Experts assure that this treatment with radiation is not dangerous.

Anello con topazio giallo, onice e diamanti
Ring with yellow topaz, onyx and diamonds

How to clean topaz. Topaz is ranked eighth on the Mohs scale, which measures the hardness of stones (in first place is the diamond ranked 10). Topaz, therefore, is a fairly hard and resistant stone. The greatest danger is that it will chip when hitting a harder material, or get scratched. But, as far as cleaning is concerned, it does not need special care. Just immerse the jewel for about ten minutes in a container with warm water and a couple of drops of liquid soap. Then, gently scrub with a soft-bristled toothbrush. Finally, it dries with a cloth.

Orecchini di topazio intagliato e diamanti
Mazza, carved topaz and diamond earrings
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Ingo Henn, pendant with pink topaz, diamonds, enamel, white gold
Anello in oro 18 carati, con topazio e pavé di diamanti
Kara Ross, 18k gold ring, with blue topaz and pavé diamonds
anello in argento ossidato con topazio blu e zaffiri arcobaleno
Oxidized silver ring with blue topaz and rainbow sapphires

All about opal

Opal is a stone used in jewelery that is back in great fashion. Find out what are the characteristics of the opal and why it is a must among your jewels. Opal is also the stone of October ♦︎

It’s back: they have recently used the opal some big names such as Cartier, Chaumet, Chopard… It pays to know something more about this stone that is unique among the gems used in jewelery, and which has a ancient history: in fact, the word opal comes from the Sanskrit upala, which has become opallios in greek language and opalus in latin (with meaning of gemstone).

Anello con opale di Chopard
Chopard opal ring

Characteristics. According to the gemologists, the opal is a mineral amorphous (from a chemical point of view is a hydrated silica). But it is also a stone with many different aspects: its color can range from transparent to milky white, but also green, red, yellow, brown, black, iridescent. It has pearlescent and transparency effects. And more: the opal is a stone, yet he contains water in an amount of up to 20%.

Pendente a forma di uccello: il corpo è un grande opale scolpito
Ilgiz Fazulzyanov, bird-shaped pendant: the body is a large carved opal

Where is it. The capital of opals is Australia, where is 97% of world production, particularly in the area of ​​Lightning Ridge, where we extract the precious black opal. But you can found opals also in Mexico, Ethiopia, Wales and even in Sardinia (Italy).

Anello con opale di Theo Fennell
Opal ring by Theo Fennell

Classification. Besides taking very different colors, this stone is spread in a wide variety: there are the common opal, opal noble, black opal, opal water, the fire opal, opal coal was and ialite. Also it varies the transparency can go from transucido to completely opaque. Another classification is related to brilliance. The rating scale following categories: Weak, Not bright, bright, very bright, brilliant.

Anello in platino con opale di fuoco
Platinum ring with fire opal

Colors. The opals have the distinction of being opalescent. Obviously. Word that means, in fact, a game of colors and iridescent light. These iridescent effects are caused to interference and diffraction of light passing through the particular arrangement of small silica spheres inside the stone. One of the finest is the opal red Mexico. Another very popular variety is the black opal, where the iridescent colors stand out against a background that ranges from black (the most prized) to dark gray. In contrast, less rare opals are white (white) or clear (light).

Pendente con opale di 75 carati, oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e neri, ametista, pietra luna
Pendant with 75 carat opal, white gold, black and white diamonds, amethyst, moonstone

Value. The opals are one of the stones more difficult to classify and to assess. The best are those in which the whole is a gem homogeneous. In trade, in reality, they are also some who have only part iridescent, which is linked together with other minerals: they are classified as bouldering.

Anello in oro bianco con opale e diamanti
Sandra Cronan, white gold ring with opal and diamonds

Care. If you have jewelry with an opal, you must be careful not to expose the stone near heat sources: the heating can cause dehydration and, consequently, the loss of the effect of opalescence. If you notice that your opal is not iridescent as a time, try to soak down the stone in the water.

Anello con opale nero australiano e spinelli rossi
Katherine Jetter, Australian black opal and red spinel ring

Cleaning. opal is a delicate stone. Use a basin of warm (not too hot) water with a drop of liquid soap. Gently clean the jewelry with a soft-bristled toothbrush. Dry with a soft cotton cloth (but does not release fibers) or with a synthetic fabric suitable for cleaning glass or electronic devices.

Alexandra Abramczyk, anello con opale, zaffiri, tsavoriti, ametiste, diamanti
Alexandra Abramczyk, ring with opal, sapphires, tsavorites, amethysts, diamonds
Anello in oro, diamanti, opale
Gucci, gold ring, diamonds, opal
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, opale, zaffiro, granati
Cartier, ring in white gold, diamonds, black opal, sapphire, garnets

All about lapis lazuli

The story of a rock, lapis lazuli, which has been transformed into a stone also used in high jewelery. But also in works of art, objects, elements of architecture. Here is everything you need to know about lapis lazuli, the blue stone with the oldest history.

Collana Ciel de Minuit in oro bianco 18 carati, lapislazzuli, zaffiri e diamanti
Ciel de Minuit necklace in 18k white gold, lapis lazuli, sapphires and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels

The name. The word lapis lazuli, sometimes abbreviated as lapis, has ancient origins. Lapis is the Latin word meaning stone, while lazuli is derived from the medieval Latin lazulum, which in turn has Arab and Persian origins, and means sky. Hence, literally lapis lazuli is a sky-colored stone. In ancient times, the stone was mined in a remote region of Afghanistan, but also in Persia. Until the Middle Ages, lapis lazuli were often called sapphire, but in reality it was not the true blue sapphire, a variety of corundum.

Orecchini in oro con lapislazzuli
Gold earrings with lapis lazuli

Color. Lapis lazuli is a rock composed of lazurite, haüyne (described for the first time in 1807 from samples discovered in the Vesuvian lavas of Monte Somma, in Italy), sodalite and nosean, a group of sodalite minerals. Colors range from medium blue, greyish to deep, royal blue, to deep indigo, with varying amounts of white gold and brass from inclusions of calcite and pyrite. The golden veins of gold colored pyrite are appreciated by many, but not all.

Collana in oro bianco, tanzanite, lapislazzuli, smalto
Necklace in white gold, tanzanite, lapis lazuli, enamel by Castaldi Gioielli

How much are lapis lazuli worth? It depends: the value is very much linked to the color of the stone. The most popular shade is a deep blue, almost purple. The white veins of calcite lower the value, while the stones with golden inclusions of pyrite are the most sought after in jewelry. The second element of evaluation concerns the cut of the stone, which must be regular, and the lucidity, as well as the state of conservation.

Lapislazzulo con inclusioni di calcite e pirite
Lapis lazuli with inclusions of calcite and pyrite

The use. Lapis lazuli are used in jewelry, but their color has suggested many different uses for centuries. Lapis lazuli artifacts from 7570 BC were found in the Indus Valley, India. Lapis lazuli was also used for the funerary mask of Tutankhamun (1341-1323 BC), while from the Middle Ages onwards the stones began to be used by painters, reduced to powder, as blue pigments by all the great artists, from Michelangelo, who used lapis lazuli to paint the Sistine Chapel, in Vermeer. But lapis have also been used in different architectures: for example, two of the columns in St. Isaac’s Cathedral, in St. Petersburg, are built with lapis lazuli.

Pendente con lapislazzulo intagliato a mano
Pendant with hand-carved lapis lazuli

Where is it. Lapis lazuli is still mined in northeastern Afghanistan, but is now also found in mines west of Lake Baikal, Russia, the Andes Mountains in Chile, and in small quantities in Pakistan, Italy, Mongolia, the United States and Canada.

Orecchini con lapislazzuli, topazio bianco e perla barocca
Earrings with lapis lazuli, white topaz and baroque pearl

The imitations. There are also imitations of lapis lazuli: the stone, in fact, has been synthesized commercially and simulated by the process introduced by Pierre Gilson in France and by Carroll Chatham in the United States. Sometimes lapis lazuli is replaced by spinel, dyed jasper or howlite, a stone can easily be dyed to mimic other minerals, including lapis lazuli.

Anello Freccia
Freccia ring in gold and lapis lazuli by Vhernier

How to discover real or false stones. How to find out if your jewel has real lapis lazuli? There are two methods, which we do not recommend. The first is to pour a small drop of hydrochloric acid (usually sold as muriatic acid) on the stone. True lapis releases a gas (H2S), which has the characteristic smell of rotten egg. Another system is to rub the lapis lazuli on a rough sheet: the real stone must leave a blue stripe. Of course, there is a risk of damaging the jewel …

Orecchini Surrounding con lapislazzuli
Surrounding earrings with lapis lazuli by Fernando Jorge

How to clean lapis lazuli. It is a stone that is not too hard (5-6 on the Mohr scale, which indicates 10 for the diamond). For this reason, it is necessary to avoid hitting the lapis lazuli on hard surfaces and not to store them together with other jewels that can easily scratch the stone. Lapis lazuli tends to tarnish over time: in this case it must be taken to a jeweler who will perform a new polishing. To clean the jewelry with lapis lazuli you can use the always valid method of water, a drop of neutral soap and a toothbrush with soft bristles. The jewel must then be dried with a soft cloth, to avoid scratches. Instead, it is better to avoid steam, ultrasounds and chemical solvents.

Anello in oro con lapislazzulo e diamanti fancy by Cartier
Gold ring with lapis lazuli and fancy diamonds by Cartier

All about sapphires 

Things to know about the sapphire, one of the most beloved precious gems, as well as stone of the month of September ♦

Sapphires have always been associated with romance and royalty. No coincidence that one of the most famous is the St. Edward’s Sapphire, which dates back to the 11th century and is set on the Imperial State Crown, one of United Kingdom crown jewels, while a more current example is the engagement ring with a sapphire 18-carat donated by Prince Charles to Lady Diana Spencer, spent a generation later by his son William to Kate Middleton.

Anello a fascia in oro bianco 18 carati, pavé di diamanti e zaffiro ovale
Band ring in 18k white gold, pavé diamonds and oval sapphire

Natural sapphires are precious stones widely used in jewelry. But there are not only natural stones: increasingly often are in use sapphires created in the laboratory, even for industrial or decorative purposes. Sapphire is a very hard stone: it reaches 9 on the Mohs scale. This stone is, therefore, the third hardest mineral in the world, after the diamond that reaches 10 and moissanite at 9.5). This is why sapphires are also used as optical components, high-resistance glasses, wristwatches, very thin electronic wafers, such as insulating substrates in electronics, integrated circuits and blue LEDs.

Anello con zaffiro del Madagascar, oro, diamanti
Tamara Comolli, ring with Madagascar sapphire, gold, diamonds

This type of stone from a gemmological point of view is a corundum (if it is red would be a ruby). Range color is from very pale blue to deep indigo, and the most appreciated is cornflower blue, not too pastel and not too navy blue. But the sapphire has a range of natural colors, gray, yellow, pale pink, orange, green, purple and brown: they are classified fancy, and some of these are very rare, for example, Padparadscha (in Sinhala means lotus flower ), of an intense orange-pink. The classic areas sapphires mines are Ceylon, Burma (Mogok), Madagascar and, to a less spread, Cambodia (Pailin), China, Kenya, Laos, Nigeria, Tanzania, Thailand, United States (Montana) and Vietnam . Until seventies Australia covering 70% of world production but the quality was not rewarded by the market because these gems were too dark or too green.

Anello con zaffiro di 25 carati su titanio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 25 carat blue sapphire on titanium by Ena Iro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

How to choose: according to Gia (Gemological Institute of America) a sapphire has generally a more affordable price than a ruby, an emerald or a diamond because are less rare. The best quality is the one that has no inclusions visible from a distance of 15 cm must by naked eye. But there are always exceptions: some inclusions, microscopic and called flower, milk or silk, can give an almost velvety appearance, which accentuates the beauty and consequently the value. One must also take into account star variety: needle-like inclusions of rutile depicting a star on the surface of the gem, which are most noticeable thanks to a good cut, and appear as six or 12 spokes evenly spaced and straight.

Un anello con zaffiro Padparadscha, simile a quello della principessa Eugenia
A Padparadscha sapphire ring, similar to Princess Eugenie’s

Cuts: the most common ones are oval and cushion, but under 1 carat can be found easily even brilliant cut sapphires, emerald and princess. But before you choose is essential to examine the stone under different lighting remembering that blue sapphires take a better look under a fluorescent light, while rubies prefer a light bulb.

Anello Sinopé in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro e tanzaniti
Cartier, Sinopé ring in white gold, diamonds, a 5.03-carat shaped Ceylon sapphire and lapis lazuli
Anello con zaffiro Art Déco
Art Deco ring with sapphire
L'anello di fidanzamento di Kate Middleton
Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire engagement ring
Anello con zaffiro rosa ovale e diamanti. Prezzo: 56.000 dollari
Ring with oval pink sapphire and diamonds
Anello Serpente, con zaffiri invisible setting e zaffiro ovale
Snake ring, with invisible setting sapphires and oval cut sapphire

Everything about tourmaline

Everything you need to know about tourmaline, increasingly fashionable in jewelry ♦

You may have noticed it: for some years now tourmaline, and in particular the Paraiba variety has become the star of jewelry. Few, however, really know this stone, which can take on different colors and which is often confused with other gems. Tourmaline began its rise in the late 1980s, when the brightly colored variety was discovered in the mines of Paraíba, Brazil. These tourmalines, in blue and green shades, were immediately successful. Prices for this stone have risen rapidly to over $ 10,000 per carat. But, be careful: the red stones that are presented with the name of rubellite are also tourmalines.

Anello in oro bianco con tormalina
White gold ring with tourmaline, Vianna Lux collection

Composition. According to the chemistry, tourmalines are a crystalline composition of boron mineral silicate, with elements of aluminum, iron, magnesium, sodium, lithium, or potassium. It is a semi-precious stone. Before the name tourmaline became common, this gem was also called the Sri Lankan Ceylonese magnet. This stone, in fact, has pyroelectric properties: it forms a temporary accumulation of electric charges of different sign on opposite ends in response to a change in temperature. But don’t worry: the wearer doesn’t get shocked. In the past, however, thanks to this property, tourmalines have been used by chemists to polarize light.

Anello con tormalina Paraiba di 24,75 carati
Ring with 24.75 carat Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds

The name. Tourmaline is a word that derives from the Tamil and Sinhalese language Turmali, used for various precious stones found in Sri Lanka. In recent centuries, large quantities of tourmalines have been exported to Europe from the Dutch East India Company from this country to southern India.

Anello con tormalina rosa di 58,18 carati
Ring with pink tourmaline of 58.18 carats

Colors. Tourmaline takes on a great variety of colors. However, the stone discovered in the Brazilian states of Minas Gerais and Bahia is a unique variety with bright colors, blue and green. The largest in the world weighs 191.87 carats and has been included in the Guinness Book of Records. But there are also red, pink, blue tourmalines, and even a variety called watermelon, that is watermelon, with shades that fade from intense pink to olive green. There is also the bright green tourmaline from Tanzania, which contains chromium (the same mineral that colors the emerald). On the market there are also yellow tourmalines, sometimes known as canary tourmaline. Zambia is rich in red and yellow tourmalines, which are relatively inexpensive. By a strange coincidence, the rarest variety, the colorless achroite, is not appreciated and is inexpensive. Tourmalines are also found in Afghanistan and the United States. The deposits in Maine tend to produce mint-green or pink-raspberry red crystals. California deposits are known for a bright pink color, but also two-tone. The most common tourmaline, however, is called schorl, black colored sodium iron.

Anello Vuoi una mentina? Di Suzanne Syz, con tormalina Paraiba, oro, smalto, diamanti
Ring Do you want a mint? By Suzanne Syz, with Paraiba tourmaline, gold, enamel, diamonds

Beauty treatment. There are many tourmalines that are subjected to special treatments to improve their color. In particular, the pink and red colored buds are often heated at high temperatures to make the color more pleasant. For example, stones with a very dark red color can be made brighter with heat treatment. The pink color, on the other hand, can be significantly increased by irradiation with gamma rays or electron beams. But radioactivity does not remain in the stone, rest assured. Among other things, you will never know: the irradiation process is almost impossible to detect in tourmalines and currently does not affect its value. Tourmaline varieties such as rubellite and Paraiba are also sometimes improved to make them clearer and brighter. But a tourmaline that undergoes this treatment is worth less than a natural gem of the same type.

Anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Daniela Villegas, Thalessa ring, in 18k rose gold, tourmaline, sapphires, two-tone tourmaline

Where is it. There is not only Brazil. In the late 1990s tourmaline containing copper was found in Nigeria. Tourmaline has also recently been discovered in Mozambique, very similar to that of Paraiba. For this reason, tourmaline from the African country is often called paraiba, but it is a mistake (sometimes desired): in reality the colors of the Mozambican stone are often a little less bright than the Brazilian one. In addition, African tourmaline also costs much less.

Una tormalina watermelon africana
An African watermelon tourmaline
Orecchini con al centro due tormaline watermelon dell'Himalaya
Earrings with two Himalayan watermelon tourmalines in the center
Van Cleef & Arpels, anello Pierres de Caractère Lotus d'Orient in oro bianco, tormalina ovale del Mozambico tipo Paraiba di 24.44 carati, diamanti taglio brillante e a pera, zaffiri tondi e chrysoprase scanalati
Van Cleef & Arpels, Pierres de Caractère Lotus d’Orient ring in white gold, 24.44 carats oval Paraiba-type Mozambique tourmaline, brilliant-cut and pear-cut diamonds, round sapphires and grooved chrysoprase
Anello di Stephen Webster con tormalina rosa all'asta online di Christie's. Stima: 7 mila euro
Stephen Webster ring with pink tourmaline
Anello con tormalina Paraiba di 48.27 carati
Ring with Paraiba tourmaline of 48.27 carats
Anello Pom Pom in oro rosa, con tormaline rosa di varie dimensioni, gradazioni e tagli e diamanti
Pom Pom ring in rose gold, with pink tourmalines of various sizes, gradations and cuts and diamonds
Jar, spilla appartenuta a Lily Safra con tormaline verdi e rosa a forma di papavero collegate da uno stelo di tormaline verdi taglio baguette attorcigliate su un diamante bianco taglio pera di 37 carati. Prezzo realizzato: 1 milione di euro circa
Jar, brooch belonging to Lily Safra with green and pink poppy-shaped tourmalines connected by a stem of baguette-cut green tourmalines twisted onto a 37-carat pear-cut white diamond

All about rubellite

Jewelers and wearers like it: rubellite is an increasingly used stone. But what is a rubellite?

It is red like a ruby, but it is not a ruby: rubellite is a gem of a different kind. While ruby belongs to the corundum genus, rubellite is a tourmaline that is scientifically classified among the silicates and is a variety of elbaite. But this matters little if you are not geologists or gemologists. Because rubellite above all has another quality: it is very beautiful and appreciated.

Anello con rubellite e diamanti
Ring with rubellite and diamonds

The history of rubellite
The stone was also known in antiquity, but often confused. In fact, there were no tools to distinguish a rubellite from a spinel, garnet or ruby. The first rubellites arrived in Europe from the East already in Roman times. Curiously, a rubellite was confused by scholars of the time such as Theophrastus and Pliny the Elder with lyncurius, a kind of gem obtained from the crystallization of animal urine. The stones arrived in Europe in greater numbers with Dutch merchant ships at the beginning of the seventeenth century, but the stone only spread in the eighteenth century, even if it was confused with the ruby. Many gemstones in the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, believed to be rubies, are now classified as rubellite.
Collana con diamanti e rubellite
Necklace with diamonds and rubellite

The property
If you hope stones have an influence on your mood, physique or health take an elevator to the Middle Ages. Stones are stones, they have no magical properties except in the Harry Potter books. But, of course, a red rubellite will make any woman happy who receives it as a gift. The Romans, however, believed that rubellite possessed a secret force. The stone for this was often carved in the shape of animals and used as an amulet. In Asia, on the other hand, especially in China, rubellite was used in the past to make the clasps that adorned the clothes of Chinese mandarins.
Vanleles, anello con rubellite taglio pera, con rubini e diamanti
Vanleles diamond and rubellite necklace, pear cut rubellite ring, set with rubies and diamonds

Color
Rubellite is red. But it can have different shades, from intense pink to magenta to ruby red, but in some cases also with a tendency to purple and, on the contrary, apricot orange. The intensity and hue are due to the amount of manganese and lithium. Another factor that characterizes rubellite is the frequent presence of inclusions, i.e. small imperfections contained within the gem, for example due to the presence of tiny minerals.
Spilla in oro rosa con diamanti e rubellite
Ganesh brooch in rose gold with diamonds and rubellite

The look
Rubellites can be composed of crystals of different types. This factor also determines the type of cut. Stones formed from prismatic crystals are cut in the shape of steps, those with smaller crystals tend to be used as round or cabochon gemstones, but also in oval or teardrop shapes.
Rubellite
Rubellite by Nomad’s

Where is it
Many rubellites come from Burma, but the most valuable are those from Brazil and Nigeria, near the city of Ibadan. Rubellite from Mozambique is also highly valued, famous for its exceptional lack of inclusions and for its very intense and pure colour. Unfortunately, however, the mine is now exhausted. Other gems are extracted from the Ural Mountains in Russia. Again: rubellites are found near the city of San Diego in California, but also in Madagascar and even, in Italy, on the island of Elba.
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite
Ring in white gold, diamonds, rubellite

How much does a rubellite cost?
As with other gems, rubellite is also all about weight and quality. An intense and deep color makes a gem more valuable. But the other aspect to take into account is transparency and the quantity or absence of inclusions: the more the gem has an intense red hue and is without defects, the higher its value will be. Finally, obviously the weight counts, which is measured in carats. If you want to get an idea of the retail value of rubellite, you can easily consult the dealers on the internet. However, the value of the stone is also linked to the jewel on which it is mounted. An established brand is usually a guarantee of being able to maintain the value of a jewel over time.
Anello in titanio con rubellite e diamanti
Titanium ring with rubellite and diamonds by Filippo G&G

How to clean
Rubellite cleans like all other sufficiently hard gemstones. Just immerse it in a basin of water with one or two drops of soap, leave it for ten minutes, and then rub it gently with a toothbrush with soft bristles, finally rinse. But be careful that more delicate materials, such as pearls and opals, are not present on the jewel.
Anello in oro bianco, rubellite e rubini
Ring in white gold, rubellite and rubies

All about ruby

Rubies are one of the most loved gemstones for centuries and are the gem of the month of July. But few know its true characteristics. Here is a quick guide to know all about rubies

Bright, red, expensive: the rubies are one of the four minerals classified as gems, along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. Beware, though: they are very rare. They are often used other gems like ruby red but usually of lesser value. Have you ever wondered why it is called ruby? Simple: the name of the stone comes from the Latin word ruber, red. Want to know all about rubies?

Anello in oro bianco con rubino non scaldato taglio smeraldo di 6,54 carati
Ring in white gold with an unheated emerald cut ruby of 6.54 carats

What are. Dispelling a myth: not all rubies are just red. The color varies from red to deep pink. According to science, the rubies are a variety of corundum, a mineral composed of aluminum oxide. But from a chemical point of view the color red is induced by the presence in its interior of chromium. From a mineral point of view, the ruby is a relative of another precious stone: the sapphire, that is also a corundum. So much so that sometimes it is difficult to determine whether a gem is a ruby or sapphire. For example, a ruby with a color not too strong sometime is classified as a pink sapphire. The rubies are used in jewelry, but not limited to: the stones are very rare, almost like a diamond.

Rubino sangue di piccione, non scaldato
Pigeon blood ruby, unheated

Look inside. Within a ruby you can find an asterism: this is a point bright three-or six-point or star that is caused by inclusions of rutile. This type of rubies is cutted into cabochons to display the effect of light. The asterisms are visible properly with a single source of light: they give a sense of motion and are much appreciated.

I riflessi del rubino
The reflections of the ruby

The provenance is important. The rubies are found in many parts of the world, but those of Mogok Valley, Myanmar (Burma) are the most prized for their intense red color. Rubies are also found in Thailand, Cambodia, India, Afghanistan and Pakistan. In Sri Lanka are usually light pink (pink sapphires are often classified). Small deposits of rubies are also found in Tanzania, Madagascar, Vietnam, Nepal, Tajikistan, and even in the United States. Today, however, Africa is the main source of rubies. An estimated 80% of the rubies come from Mozambique, mainly from the Gemfields mine. But other companies are also active, such as Fura Gems, which began auctioning gems in the last year, along with a third competitor, Gem Rock, which will soon enter the ruby auction market. However, Africa, as a source, has traditionally been despised by industry, especially for rubies: the most valuable gems, in fact, are those from Burma. But with Burmese rubies in short supply, African rubies from Mozambique, Madagascar and Tanzania are on the rise. Therefore, it is better not to focus on the origin: it is better to judge the value of the stone itself, whatever the origin.

Anello La Reine in platino, rubino, diamanti
La Reine ring in platinum, ruby, diamonds

How are. Weight, color and quality of the stone determines its value. First of all the color is important: those with a very intense and brilliant red are the most wanted. Their color is described as “pigeon’s blood”. Rarely rubies can also change color or submit an effect “cat’s eye”. It is also important to their degrees of clarity: a ruby without inclusions are very rare, especially over a certain size. A 10-carat ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions (also called silk) may indicate that the stone has been treated, or is exceptional.

L'Anfiteatro, anello by Picchiotti con rubino di oltre 8 carati, diamanti, platino
L’Anfiteatro, ring by Picchiotti with ruby over 8 carats, diamonds, platinum

Treated or natural? Because the imperfections are common in virtually all rubies, they are used by gemologists to tell if a stone has been treated or is a synthetic ruby​​. The treatment, in most cases consists in heating the raw stone before it is cut. In fact, almost all rubies today are treated in some way, usually by using the thermal method. For this rare untreated rubies and good quality can reach very high prices.

Estrazione di un rubino in Groenlandia
Extraction of a ruby in Greenland
Anello con rubino sangue di piccione
Pigeon blood ruby ring
Zorab, diamanti bianchi e neri, rubini
Zorab, ring with black and white diamonds, rubies
Anello in platino e diamanti con rubino birmano antico di 4,34
Ring in platinum and diamonds with an antique Burmese ruby of 4.34 carats
Collana di perle naturali con rubini della Birmania e diamanti bianchi
Natural pearl necklace with Burmese rubies and white diamonds

Everything on the moon stone




The moonstone, so used for its pale shade, but little known by those who buy the jewels. Here is a quick guide to the moonstone, which is also considered stones of the month of June (along with pearls: why, since they are not minerals?)

Let’s face it: how many of you have had the suspicion that the moonstone, has some stellar origin? In fact it is simply the name that you give to the feldspar in jewelry, variety of mineral that belongs to ortoclasio species. Said in this way, it loses much of the charm, it is true. Add to this that the feldspar is a very common substance, so that is located in the 60% of the earth’s crust. But beware: the feldspar to become moonstone must also contain adularia. This is the substance which gives a kind of inner glow to the stone. The name is strange and comes from the name of the Adular mountain, in Switzerland, today Gotthard.

Anello in oro bianco e pietra luna
Anello in oro bianco e pietra luna

Features. The most prized moonstones are clean, clear deep blue or iridescent. But they can also have a dominant color white, peach, pink, gray, brown, green and yellow.
Use. The stone has always been used in jewelry. The Romans believed that a stone was born from solidified rays of the moon and associated it to the celestial deities. In the past there were those who believed that looking at the stone you could recognize the crescent and moon phases. In India it is believed that moonstones promote pleasant dreams. In Arab countries women often wear moonstones sewn out in their robes, because the moonstone is a symbol of fertility. It was also a very popular during the Art Nouveau. The renowned French jeweler René Lalique created many jewelry using this stone.

Nicholas Varney, orecchini con pietra luna
Nicholas Varney, orecchini con pietra luna

Where is it. Many moonstones come from Sri Lanka, usually blue on an almost transparent background. The stones from India are more nebulous, often with a beige-brown background, green, orange or brown. They are also found in the United States, Brazil, Australia, Myanmar and Madagascar.

Anello Open Lips, in oro bianco, pietra luna e zaffiri rosa
Rina Limor, anello Open Lips, in oro bianco, pietra luna e zaffiri rosa

How you use. The classical moonstones are always cut in cabochon and the most important thing is the correct height of the gem, important to get the desired effect of light.
Warnings. The moonstone has a weak point: it is not very hard. It has a hardness of only 6 on the Mohs scale, so you have to handle it with care. But if it loses luster, it can lead to a jeweler, who will do shine the stone it again. Just like a moon rising again.

Anello in oro giallo, argento, diamanti, rubini, pietra luna intagliata
Sylvie Corbelin, anello in oro giallo, argento, diamanti, rubini, pietra luna intagliata
Anello in oro e pietra luna Muse Eternity
Ark, anello in oro e pietra luna Muse Eternity
Noor Fares, anello Flower of Life, pietra luna, oro giallo, pietre di colore e diamanti
Noor Fares, anello Flower of Life, pietra luna, oro giallo, pietre di colore e diamanti
Anello con due pietre luna
Anello con due pietre luna di Doris Hangartner
Anello con architettura ottomana scavata dall'interno. Pietra luna, oro, diamanti
Anello con architettura ottomana scavata dall’interno. Pietra luna, oro, diamanti
Clip con pietra luna, diamanti e platino
Clip con pietra luna, diamanti e platino
Bracciale a doppia chiusura con pietra luna e diamanti
Bracciale a doppia chiusura con pietra luna e diamanti
Bracciale della collezione Oursin, superficie
Bracciale della collezione Oursin, superficie
Orecchini con zaffiri brown, zirconi pesca, pietra luna, tormalina rosa, diamanti. oro rosa riciclato
Orecchini con zaffiri brown, zirconi pesca, pietra luna, tormalina rosa, diamanti. oro rosa riciclato
Moonstone lucidate
Moonstone lucidate
Anello Zip con pietra di luna, zaffiri, diamanti
Anello Zip con pietra di luna, zaffiri, diamanti by Manalys






Everything about labradorite




Can you recognize labradorite? Yet it is a stone widely used for bijoux and jewelry. Here’s what you need to know about labradorite

When asked if you like Labradorite it is not a reference to the yellow or black dogs who are famous for their water rescue skills. Labrador, in this case, is the place (in Canada) where at the end of the eighteenth century this stone was discovered which is part of the very common group of feldspar, successfully used in jewelry. As with all stones, there is someone who attributes miraculous properties to labradorite. Everyone is free to believe it …

Anello con diamanti taglio brillante, labradorite grigia, granati, tsavoriti, topazi blu e zaffiri arancioni
Anello con diamanti taglio brillante, labradorite grigia, granati, tsavoriti, topazi blu e zaffiri arancioni

Features. Labradorite has the particularity of possessing a play of colors with a metallic reflection, often changing between blue and green. In some rare cases, it can show the full spectrum of colors. There are also colorless, white, gray, gray-black, gray-whitish, yellow, brown, pale green varieties. It is not a very hard stone and the simplest cut in which to bring out the colors is the cabochon, although it is not uncommon to find some other type of cut. As we have mentioned, labradorite can exhibit an iridescent (or schiller) optical effect, which is also known as labradorescence. The term labradorescence was coined by the mineralogist Ove Balthasar Bøggild. From a scientific point of view, labradorizing is the reflection of light from submicroscopic planes oriented in one direction (rarely in two directions). They are planes that never have such a position that they can be expressed by simple indices, and are not directly visible under the microscope.

Where is it. In addition to Labrador, labradorite is also found in Madagascar, Mexico, Russia and the USA. The Finnish variety is called spektrolith.

Orecchini Galaxy con labradorite by Fernando Jorge
Orecchini Galaxy con labradorite by Fernando Jorge

How it is used in jewelry. Labradorite is mainly used for simple cut pendants and pendants, or cut into spheres for necklaces. But there is no shortage of rings that use labradorite, especially in its iridescent version.

How to clean labradorite. Since labradorite is a fairly fragile stone, care must be taken to clean it, avoiding too rough treatments. Water, a drop of detergent and a toothbrush with soft silks are fine. Instead, avoid rubbing the stone with too rough materials. Also pay attention to when you put it back in the drawer: do not place the jewel in contact with other objects that could scratch the stone.

Bracciale con labradorite di Gil Zohar
Bracciale con labradorite di Gil Zohar
Orecchini con labradorite
Orecchini con labradorite by Pippa Small
Bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite
Elie Top, bracciale della collezione Etoile Mysterieuse, in argento, labradorite
Stephen Dweck, collana con labradorite
Stephen Dweck, collana con labradorite
Orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato
Nak Armstrong, orecchini con aquamarina, labradorite, rainbow pietra luna, diamanti non lucidati, oro giallo riciclato
Anello con topazio blu e labradorite
Jules Kim, anello con topazio blu e labradorite
Federica Rettore, bracciale con labradorite
Federica Rettore, bracciale con labradorite







Everything about morganite




The morganite is a very attractive pink stone and less expensive than diamonds. Read what are the characteristics of the morganite in this tutorial.

The auctions of Christie’s and Sotheby’s have decreed that at the moment the kings of precious stones are pink diamonds. But if you like this color, morganite is one of the stones that offers this shade. The morganite, in fact, has a strong pink color and is found with different shades, more or less intense. On the other hand, it is a stone that is in fashion: great Maison, such as Pasquale Bruni or designers like Lydia Courteille have long used this stone for their high jewelery collections.

OreccOrecchini in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi brown, morganitehini in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi Brown, morganite
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi brown, morganite

The name. Few people know that morganite is named in honor of a banker. In fact, it takes its name from the American financier and banker passionate about precious stones, John Pierpont Morgan. He was one of the great bankers of the early twentieth century and still today the bank he founded is one of the largest and most important in the world. Morganite was discovered in Madagascar in 1910 by George Kunz, who proposed calling it morganite at a meeting of the New York Academy of Sciences, to honor his friend and client John Pierpont Morgan, who had granted him his financial support and to the important donations of gems to the American Museum of Natural History in New York and the Museum of Natural History in Paris. JP Morgan’s collection was then partly used by Tiffany, of which Kunz was the chief gemologist.

Ciondolo in oro con morganite
Ciondolo in oro con morganite di Spreng

Curiosity. Morganite becomes fluorescent and deep red in color when exposed to X-rays. The fluorescence disappears when it is no longer affected by the rays: it is an aspect to know if you have a jewel with morganite and want to wear it during an X-ray …

Orecchini con Morganite della collezione Atelier Vento
Pasquale Bruni, orecchini con morganite della collezione Atelier Vento

Description. The morganite is a variety of beryl, has delicate pink color, more or less intense. The pink beryl owes its color to the presence of minimal traces of manganese, often associated with impurities of cesium and rubidium. The main deposits are in Madagascar and Brazil. The morganite can form large crystals: in Brazil they found crystals up to 10 kilograms.
How is it worth. The morganite is rarer aquamarine, but large stones are easily available on the market. The value is also determined by the quality of the stone, for example, from its transparency. A ring with a good sized morganite can cost around 4000-5000 euro, but the price increases if it is associated with other stones.

Anello in oro bianco brunito con morganite e diamanti di Lorenza Bäumer
Anello in oro bianco brunito con morganite e diamanti di Lorenza Bäumer

Anello con morganite e tormaline
Anello con morganite e tormaline di Lydia Courteille

Collier Goddess Garden in oro, diamanti, morganite
Collier Goddess Garden in oro, diamanti, morganite di Pasquale Bruni

Anello in oro con morganite e diamanti
Anello in oro con morganite e diamanti di Carelle

Anello Twig in oro bianco e morganite
Anello Twig in oro bianco e morganite

Anello con gambo a forma di pesce, spinello rosa e zaffiri
Alessio Boschi, anello con gambo a forma di pesce, spinello rosa e zaffiri

Damiani, anello in oro, zaffiri rosa, diamanti e morganite
Damiani, anello in oro, zaffiri rosa, diamanti e morganite







Everything about Jade




Quick guide to the most loved gemstone in the East, the jade, which also like in the West. Read how to learn to recognize jade (there isn’y only one) ♦

In China is the gemstone for excellence: the jade is a mineral ancient, valuable and widely used in jewelry. Now not only in the East, but also by many Western jewelers, who use the jades for their creations. But beware: the jade not all the same. Read this guide to learn more and get to know it.

Orecchini in oro, argento, con giada e tsavoriti

What is it. The term jade includes generally two different stones: jadeite and nephrite. The reason for this misunderstanding is because jadeite and nephrite mineral species that are difficult to distinguish. This ambiguity leads to confusion, especially to those who want to buy a jewel in jade. Nephritis was discovered long before Jadeite, about 5 thousand years ago, and was much appreciated by the Chinese emperors. The oldest jade objects found date back, however, about 7 thousand years ago in pre-Columbian era. Thanks to its hardness, nephrite was used as an ornament, but also for making tools. The nephritis is mostly green and white, with a color pale more than jadeite. In the jewelry industry, however, the word jade is often used as a generic term for nephrite and jadeite. Not only that: the term jade has also been applied to gems and ornamental materials that resemble jade, and sometimes even some artificial equivalents reminiscent of jadeite and nephrite. One more reason to be careful when buying a jade jewel.

Anello con giada tagliata cabochon
Anello con giada tagliata cabochon

In some cases, for the oxidation, also it reveals red and orange shades. It is a mineral abundant and widespread in the world: is located in Taiwan, California, Alaska, British Columbia, Wyoming, New Zealand and Russia. Jadeite is a stone chemically different, classified by the French mineralogist Alexis Damour in 1863. The jadeite has a much more vibrant color of nephrite, is more transparent, more rare and valuable, which is why it is used in jewelry.

Anello di nefrite e ametista. Photo: Charles Thompson
Anello di nefrite e ametista. Photo: Charles Thompson

The origin. The name jadeite from Spanish phrase “piedra de ijada” meaning stone side. It was believed that would serve to treat kidney stones when rubbed against the side of the body of the afflicted person. The Latin version of the name, lapis nephriticus, is the origin of the term nephritis.

Anello con giada tagliata cabochon
Anello con giada tagliata cabochon

Features. The jade color can range from white to pale apple green, deep green, but can also be blue-green, pink, lavender and a multitude of other rare colors. The color is largely influenced by the presence of trace elements such as chromium and iron. Its translucency varies: the jade can be opaque to nearly transparent. The jade is usually cut in cabochon beads or whether it is mounted on rings and pendants. It is widely used for small sculptures or tools. The coloring is often streaked or mottled: a characteristic that makes jadeite stones very aesthetically pleasing. Furthermore, these streaks can be useful to carvers, who use them to create imaginative and intriguing effects.

Collana di giada e diamanti. Venduta per 7,1 milioni
Collana di giada e diamanti. Venduta per 7,1 milioni

The value. Nephritis is less appreciated, unless they make up a very old object. The actual value depends on the processing of the material. In general, the nephritis has not a huge demand when it comes to jewelry and has not the same value of jadeite. When buying jade you must pay attention to the quality, determined by the degree of translucency, transparency and purity of color. One of the most popular variety is the black jade. But often the black jade is actually nephritis, much more abundant and not so expensive. Occasionally, other minerals like serpentine or quartz are sold as jade. At the time the request is made more jade mines of Burma: the great demand, especially from China, has pushed up the price.

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, rubini, giada
TTF, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, rubini, giada

What to pay attention to. It seems incredible to say, but there are those who sell fake jade jewelry, which is actually plastic. Sure, it’s a very hard and refined plastic, but it’s not real jade. How to avoid cheating? The first rule is to beware of selling jade jewelry at a very low price. Don’t be fooled by special offers or, worse, by jewels of dubious origin: they are almost always scams. In China, for example, there are state-owned stores authorized to sell jade. Of course, the price is much higher …

Orecchini in oro e giada indossati dall'attrice americana Kelsey Scott
Arido, orecchini in oro e giada indossati dall’attrice americana Kelsey Scott
Collana di giada con zaffiro rosa
Collana di giada con zaffiro rosa
Anello con giada color lavanda e verde, agata
Sabba, anello con giada color lavanda e verde, agata
Anello rettangolare di giada nera del Guatemala
Anello rettangolare di giada nera del Guatemala e diamanti
Bracciale di giada lavanda
Bracciale di giada lavanda
Il bracciale di giada The Circle of Heaven
Il bracciale di giada The Circle of Heaven
Orecchini con giada e diamanti
Orecchini con giada e diamanti
Orecchini con giada e zaffiri
Orecchini con giada e zaffiri
Anello con giada cabochon, rubini e diamanti
Anello con giada cabochon, rubini e diamanti
Hemmerle, orecchini con giada, diamanti, argento, oro bianco
Hemmerle, orecchini con giada, diamanti, argento, oro bianco
Collier con pendente in giada nera
Collier con pendente in giada nera

Anello con giada e onice
Anello con giada e onice







How to recognize the emeralds




The emerald is the stone linked to the month of May. It is one of the most precious stones, yet not everyone knows it thoroughly. Here are the essential things to know about the emerald ♦

How to recognize an emerald? It is easy to understand the value and quality? The answer is no. Only a survey conducted by an expert (or disinterested unpaid) can provide a serious judgment. But knowing the basics can help you figure out if you should pay for an expert opinion, and it helps to have an idea about the stone that interests you.

Anello in oro giallo con smeraldi
Anello in oro giallo con smeraldi by Kohinoor Jewelers

Four C.  Emeralds, like diamonds, are evaluated based on four parameters (The Four C): color, clarity (clarity), cut (cut) and carat. Unlike diamonds, however, for the color of emeralds is the most outstanding feature. If you think it is also the only gem that gives a name to a color: emerald green.

Color. In the emerald hue and saturation of the color can vary significantly. A deep shade is most appreciated. Hence, the value is linked to the gradient of color: the more intense, the more sought after.

Anello in oro rosa con smeraldo
Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, anello in oro rosa con smeraldo

Sharpness. As for diamonds, in an emerald can be no inclusions or blemishes. Sometimes these imperfections are invisible to the naked eye : you have to use powerful lenses and watch against the stone. Among other things, these tiny tracks constitute a kind of ” fingerprint “. Obviously, inclusions, bubbles or scratches that internal influence the value of the stone.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels, diamanti e smeraldo
Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels, diamanti e smeraldo con il classico taglio smeraldo

Cutting. The word cut (cut) refers to the way in which it was given shape in an emerald to optimize its beauty. A great emerald can be improved only with the experience of a good cutter. Many have a particular cut emeralds, roughly rectangular in shape that is called, in fact, the emerald cut.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati
The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati

Carat. It is a measure of the weight of an emerald. Of course, the larger an emerald, the higher its carat weight, and often the cost. However, it is not the main feature : better a smaller stone, but transparent and intense color that a large but full of imperfections.

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino

Provenance. The best emeralds are those of Colombia. Other mines are found in Zambia, Africa. Today about 40-50% of the emeralds mined come from Zambia, where these gems were formed 500 million years ago. Emeralds were discovered in the African country in the late 1970s and the first official auction by the Zambian government took place in 1982. But in those years the classification of emeralds was not like it is today. The lower grades weren’t in high demand and didn’t have a great rating. But now groups like Gemfields and Grizzly, with their new technology, are able to propose and classify stones in a better way.

Anello con oro brunito e graffiato, con al centro uno smeraldo
Antonini, anello con oro rodiato nero e graffiato, con al centro uno smeraldo

Beware of treatments. The stones are often treated to improve their appearance. One of these techniques is the so-called heat-treatment (ie through heat): it consists in heating the stone to improve its color and purity. The Deep Diffusion Treatment instead consists in spreading in the stone additives such as beryllium, whose purpose is to obtain colors totally different from the original ones, generally rare in nature. For example, the orange color for sapphires. These two treatments are recognized by professionals, and are specified on the certificate of the gemmology laboratory that examined the stone.

Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti e smeraldi appartenuto a Liz Taylor
Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti e smeraldi appartenuto a Liz Taylor

Origin. In Buddhism, the emerald is considered one of the seven treasures and equated with wisdom. The word emerald comes from the Latin smaragdus, which in turn derives from the Greek word σμάραγδος (smaragdos). But the Greek word derives from izmargad, a Semitic term, or maragata, a Sanskrit term (ancient language of India), which means green stone.

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Anello con smeraldo e zaffiri
Anello con smeraldo e zaffiri di Manuel Bouvier
Anello con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in platino con smeraldo
Anello in platino con smeraldo
Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati
Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati
Smeraldo con piccole imperfezioni interne
Smeraldo con piccole imperfezioni interne
Smeraldo grezzo
Smeraldo grezzo







All about the mysterious Moldavite





Moldavite is not a disease, but a stone, even if there are some who suffer from Moldavite. The disease, in truth, only damages the psyche, because thinking that a simple mineral has the power to modify the state of health or protect against evil spirits (or things of this kind) can only be described as simple ignorance or a disorder psychic. But beyond these bizarre aspects, Moldavite has its admirers in jewelry.

Anello indossato con moldavite
Anello indossato con moldavite

The mineral. Moldavite is a green vitreous silica rock, which can have different shades: forest, olive or green-blue. The aspect that makes many people fantasize is that this stone has a different origin than usual: it was formed, in fact, from the impact of a meteorite probably in southern Germany about 15 million years ago. But it must be added that it is not the only mineral substance present on Earth to have an origin of this type. In any case, from a geological point of view it is simply a type of tektite. Its discovery dates back to 1786, when it was presented during a lecture at the University of Prague. The term Moldavite arrived only in the mid-nineteenth century, it derives from the Vltava river, in Bohemia (Czech Republic), from where the first described pieces came from.
Anello in oro bianco con moldavite
Anello in oro bianco con moldavite

Where is it. Moldavite is found in an area that includes southern Bohemia, western Moravia, the Cheb basin (north-western Bohemia), Lusatia (Germany) and the Waldviertel (Austria).
Collana di moldavite
Collana di moldavite

The mineral. Moldavite is a beryllium-10, similar to the composition of the Australian (Australian) and Ivory Coast (Ivorite) tektites. In short, it has nothing so mysterious. The properties of the mineral are similar to those of other types of glass and the reported Mohs hardness ranges from 5.5 to 7 (on the scale a diamond is 10, the maximum). Moldavite can be transparent or translucent with a moss green color, with swirls and bubbles inside or on the surface. Unfortunately, in China they seem to have created imitations of Moldavite, in reality simple glass. If the stone has a smooth surface with no threads (called lechatelierite) inside it, it is probably fake. The real mineral, in fact, has bubbles and various inclusions that resemble small worms inside, which may indicate its natural origin. If this mineral intrigues you, you can visit a museum dedicated to Moldavite, the Muzeum Vltavínů, in Český Krumlov, Czech Republic.
Pendente di moldavite
Pendente di moldavite

Moldavite in jewelry. Moldavite is not a very common mineral in jewelry, but rings or necklaces made with this material, in faceted or natural form, have an appearance that appeals to many. There are, however, three different qualities of Moldavite: high, medium and normal. For jewelry, only high quality moldavite is generally used.

Anello in oro giallo con moldavite
Anello in oro giallo con moldavite







All about turquoise




The turquoise, stone of the month of December. Find out why turquoise can be easily altered and how to clean and store it ♦ ︎

It is the stone that, according to tradition, accompanies the month of December. But turquoise has an even older history than the (recent) custom of combining a stone for each month of the year. In fact, turquoise has been used since antiquity as a precious and ornamental stone.

Orecchini in oro bianco, argento e turchesi
Hemmerle, orecchini in oro bianco, argento e turchesi

History. The Egyptians at the time of the Pharaohs obtained it from the mines of the Wadi Maghara, in the Sinai peninsula. The oldest turquoise is the one used for a bracelet that dates back to about 8000 years ago, discovered in Egypt. And another jewel with turquoise was found in the sarcophagus of a mummy of 7,500 years ago. The blue stone was also used by the Aztecs, the Maya and the Incas, as well as among the Native Americans. It was also known to the ancient Romans: it was used for a bust of the Emperor Tiberio, preserved at the Silver Museum of Florence. Other turquoise stones are found in the Treasure of San Marco, in Venice.
The name. Why is turquoise called with this name? Simple: the word comes from the French term to indicate Turkey. In fact, the mineral was introduced to Europe via Turkey, from mines in the province of Khorasan, in Persia. The first use of the word turquoise to indicate the stone is from 1573.

Anello Luna Crescente in oro, turchese e diamanti. Prezzo: 3250 euro
Anello Luna Crescente in oro, turchese e diamanti

Where is it. Turquoise is usually found in arid regions, in filler cavities, often with associated limonite and other iron oxides. The largest production is located in Iran, Egypt (Sinai), United States.
Features. Turquoise is a blue-green mineral. It is opaque, with a uniform blue color or some brown or black dendritic veins of limonite. It is very rare in the form of transparent crystals. Its porosity often causes alterations to the original color. The turquoise reaches a maximum hardness of 6 on the Moh scale (the diamond is at 10). In practice it is slightly harder than a window glass. The color is variable: from white to sky blue, up to yellowish green.
Use. The most used cut is cabochon, ie with a curved surface without facets.

Vhernier, orecchini con pasta turchese. Prezzo: 900 euro l'uno
Vhernier, orecchini con pasta turchese. Prezzo: 900 euro l’uno

Turquoise care. Since it is a medium hard stone, turquoise is usually treated to improve color and strength. Attention, therefore, because it is difficult to provide all the information to those who buy a jewel with turquoise. For example, turquoise is often subjected to waxing and oiling, to improve color and shine. This is a traditional and generally accepted treatment. However, oiled and waxed stones tend to “sweat” if they are exposed to the sun or to a source of heat. In this case they can develop a film or a white patina. In that case it is better to bring the jewel back to an expert who can make the stone bright again. But there are also turquoises treated with plastic or glass. This process consists of impregnating under pressure the chalky material, an epoxy and plastic resin (such as polystyrene) and glass powder (sodium silicate). Plastic and glass water treatments are much more durable and stable than wax and lubrication. But it is a non-natural method, which is rejected by many. Most of the turquoises in the United States are treated with this method. There is still an even stronger method: using Prussian blue or other dyes. Obviously in this way the stone is even more altered than its natural state.

Orecchini in oro e turchese di Ileana Makri
Orecchini in oro e turchese di Ileana Makri

Treatments for turquoise. The residual fragments of the processing, too small to be used individually, are pulverized and mixed with resin and color to form a solid mass. However, this procedure should be clearly explained. Usually, however, the use of this paste is hidden behind the description of “reconstituted turquoise”. In reality it has little natural stone. In the USA it is often also glued to a material that is the basis of the jewel, to increase its solidity.
How store the turquoise. Turquoise is quite delicate: it is fragile and sensitive to solvents. Perfume and other cosmetics are enemies of turquoise: they can alter the color of the stone. Even the sweat can affect the turquoise. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can discolor or dehydrate the stone: it is better not to wear jewelry with turquoise on the beach or in other places exposed to the long sun. The turquoise should be cleaned gently with a soft cloth to avoid the accumulation of residues and must be stored in a separate container, to avoid scratches from harder buds. But, beware: better let it breathe, so avoid an airtight container.

Anello Entre les Doigts Perlée couleurs in oro bianco, diamanti e turchese
Anello Entre les Doigts Perlée couleurs in oro bianco, diamanti e turchese
Orecchini di turchese
Confuorto, orecchini di turchese
Turquoise Ring
Anello Turquoise, in oro 18 carati con turchese centrale circondato da animali in pavé di diamanti brown, zaffiri fancy e tsavoriti
Orecchini a forma di foglie d'acero in oro con diamanti e zaffiri
Naomi Sarna, orecchini con turchesi, diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Sapphire and turquoise earrings in 18ct yellow gold
Ming Lampson, orecchini con zaffiri, turchese, oro
Anello in oro con turchesi e diamanti
Gigi Ferranti, anello in oro con turchesi e diamanti
Anello doppio, fiori con ape. Oro, diamanti, pasta di turchese
Brent Neale Winston, anello doppio, fiori con ape. Oro, diamanti, pasta di turchese
Anello La reyna Coyote, turchese e tormaline verdi
Daniela Villegas, anello La Reina Coyote, turchese e tormaline verdi






All about spinel

The spinel has become part of the stones of the month of August. Here are its characteristics: could you distinguish it from a ruby? ♦ ︎

In 2016 Jewelers of America and the American Gem Trade Association decided to add the spinel to the official list of birth stones in August. The spinel, in short, contends the stone scepter of the month to the peridot. In any case, the spinel is a stone that is increasingly used even in high jewelery thanks to its characteristics.

Anello con spinello rosa-arancio di 8,81 carati e diamanti
Anello con spinello rosa-arancio di 8,81 carati e diamanti

History. The spinel was also called “great impostor of the royal collections”. Yes, because many of the famous gemstones known as the Ruby of the Black Prince or the Timur Ruby which are part of the British Crown Treasure, are not rubies, but actually spinels. A 412 carat gem, which is part of the jewels of the Russian crown, and most of the red stones in the crown of Iran, which is the largest collection in the world of this red stone (almost always), are also spinels. The Samarian Spinel is, instead, the largest known spinel in the world, weighing 500 carats (about 100 grams).

Anello con spinello a forma di cuore e zaffiri
Anello con spinello a forma di cuore e zaffiri

Identikit. The spinel was distinguished from the ruby ​​only in 1783 by the mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome de Lisle. From a chemical point of view, the spinel is a mineral composed of magnesium aluminate with very different characteristics compared to ruby, which for the mineralogy is instead a corundum. The spinel is less hard (a sharp ruby ​​can scratch a spinel, but the opposite does not happen) and has a lower specific gravity. In practice, with the same volume weighs less. Moreover, it has only one index of refraction, while the birefringing ruby ​​can have two different and distinct colors.

Anello in oro bianco e spinello lavanda
Anello in oro bianco e spinello lavanda

Colors. The main ones are red, reddish orange, deep pink, rosy red, violet and black, but also intense cobalt blue, even if very rare.

Anello in argento con spinello nero
Anello in argento con spinello nero

Where it is found. In Burma the best examples of spinel are extracted, in the range of red, pink, violet, orange, blue and pink. Also in Mahenge, in the south of Tanzania, gems have been recently found in great quality and with red and reddish orange color. Another important producer is Sri Lanka followed by Tajikistan, Thailand and Pakistan.

Anello Leaf in oro bianco con uno spinello rosso, diamanti
Anello Leaf in oro bianco con uno spinello rosso, diamanti

Evaluation. Although it is rare as the ruby, the price of the spinel is lower. But things are rapidly changing and the prices of the spinel are on the rise. Intense bright red is the most precious hue (hard to find), followed by red orange, rosy red and purple red. Since the spinel is usually without inclusions, transparency is very relevant in the assessment. Now that consumers can see that this stone has a lot of value, that it has a long history, they can start buying it to enrich their collection. And as the supply and quality of that supply dwindled, prices soared: from $5,000 a carat to $50,000 a carat today. At the same time, the sizes are decreasing, so while in 2007 it was easy to find a 100-carat stone, today finding a good quality 20-carat spinel is quite difficult.

Anello in argento e spinello nero
Anello in argento e spinello nero

Caution. There are also synthetic spinels on the market, produced in sheets through a sintering process, ie with the compaction and formation of a solid mass of material through heat or pressure.

Pendente in oro giallo e argento, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendente in oro giallo e argento, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello
Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello
Amodea, anello in platino con diamanti, rubini e spinello viola
Amodea, anello in platino con diamanti, rubini e spinello viola