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Where flies Anapsara

The Anapsara gold and diamond jewelry with mystical background.
You imagine if you enter into a jewelry store and listen to these words: “The larval stage of dragonflies lasts up to five years. It’s time. Are you ready for your transformation?”. If you can hear this sentence, you know that they are offering to you Anapsara jewelry, brand based in Antwerp, born in 2014 between the beaches of Ibiza. Despite its origin, however, Anapsara follows a philosophy that focuses on the aspect of spirituality. Gold and mysticism?

The founder of the brand, Eugenia Shekhtman, says she was inspired to create her own line of luxury jewelry after years of spiritual studies and Vedic practices.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, madreperla
Ring in white gold, diamonds, mother of pearl

To begin with, the word Anapsara is derived from the Sanskrit word Apsara, which means “she who moves through the water.” The collection’s logo, a dragonfly, was chosen for its beauty and meaning: the change in the perspective of self-fulfillment. And so Eugenia accompanies the presentation of its jewels with phrases like the one we mentioned at the beginning. In any case, also if you aren’t sensitive to the Indian mysticism or you dont love the gracefulness of the dragonfly, the Anapsara jewelry can also play a purely aesthetic function. In short, you can wear this jewels without thinking too much.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Ring in white gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto
Ring in rose gold, diamonds, enamel
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti neri
Ring in rose gold, black diamonds
Mono orecchino in oro rosa
Single earring in rose gold
Collana e pendente in oro rosa
Rose gold necklace and pendant
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamond earrings
Orecchini in oro e diamanti neri
Gold and black diamond earrings

Vak’s amazing jewels

The new jewels by Vak, the Indian Maison specializing in surprising high jewelery

Vak is the fruit of a family inheritance. Yet, even if it is inspired by the ancient, the tradition, the Maison of Mumbai founded by Vishal Kothari, focuses everything on innovation. A graduate of the Gia in New York, the Indian designer does not limit himself to designing fine jewelry, but emphasizes creativity guided by a technique that is often surprising. Also because he also dreamed of being a fashion designer, or a musician. Instead he has become a great jewelry signature. The diamonds that make up the petals are cut and mounted so that they are flexible, but at the same time firmly on a ring or a pair of earrings. Vak’s jewels are patiently awaited by a host of fans, who contain jewels produced with the dropper. Also because the Maison only creates around 120 unique pieces a year for its high jewelery collection.

Orecchini chandelier con diamanti
Chandelier earrings with diamonds

On the other hand, it is not easy to make jewelry like the Desert Rain Ring: a cloud of rose-cut diamonds that seems to fall on a brushed gold surface, like rain on sand. It is a shock cocktail ring but, they explain to Vak, it is in fact a desired promise, like rain in the desert. But, alongside pieces sold to collectors, Vak now also offers high-end jewelry, but sold through online platforms such as Moda Operandi. They are always jewels that cost several thousand dollars or euros, but are closer to the general public.

Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, su oro rosa spazzolato
Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, on brushed rose gold
Anello con diamanti e spinello burmese esagonale
Ring with diamonds and hexagonal Burmese spinel
Anello Arch of Heaven con diamanti e uno zaffiro burmese non scaldato
Arch of Heaven ring with diamonds and an unheated Burmese sapphire
Orecchini Architectural Splendor, con diamanti, spinelli e rubini birmani
Architectural Splendor earrings, with diamonds, spinels and Burmese rubies
Bracciale in oro rodiato nero, diamanti e smeraldo di 5,36 carati
Bracelet in black rhodium-plated gold, diamonds and emerald of 5.36 carats
Anello Elephant Pop con diamanti e rubini
Elephant Pop ring with diamonds and rubies
Orecchini Black Constellation in oro rodiato nero e diamanti
Black Constellation earrings in black rhodium-plated gold and diamonds
Orecchini Green Baroque con diamanti, oro rodiato brown, smeraldi dello Zambia
Green Baroque earrings with diamonds, brown rhodium-plated gold, Zambian emeralds
Orecchini Summero Bllom, con smeraldi intagliati e diamanti
Summer Bloom earrings, with carved emeralds and diamonds

Expert advice for buying diamonds

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf
Pio Visconti in golf attire

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and  cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti
Eternity wedding rings in diamonds

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values ​​of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Legends of Africa ring with white diamonds and emeralds

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of  engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made ​​in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby ​​usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced ​​thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms
6.41 carat unheated pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby set in an 18k yellow and white gold ring surrounded by diamonds, designed by Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of ​​green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti
Margot ring with pear-cut sapphire and diamonds

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo
Color stones: sapphire, ruby, rubellite and yellow sapphire

Jewelry like Easter eggs

Easter is a holiday that in the West is also synonymous with eggs. But eggs are not only an ingredient for typical dishes of this period. The oval shape has been used in the history of art as a symbol of rebirth, of motherhood, of a nature that is renewed. And it often occurs also in jewelery, in particular the precious eggs produced by Fabergé are famous. The great Russian jeweler, whose brand has been back to life for a few years (since 2012 he joined the Gemfield group), has produced 50 imperial eggs, created especially for the tsars.

Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch diventa un uovo su un nido d'oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall'antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese
Brooch by Anna Hu. The Chinese Blue and White Magpie motif is crafted in titanium and 18k white and yellow gold, with a pavé of over 500 gems, delicate white gold tree branches set with diamonds and Paraiba tourmaline. A pearl conch becomes an egg on a yellow gold nest. The piece was inspired by the ancient blue and white flower and bird pattern on a circle-shaped porcelain plate in the National Museum of History in Washington, D.C., as well as the works of Giuseppe Castiglione, a Jesuit missionary and painter of the Chinese imperial court

Today they are worth millions, they are often kept in museums and rare private collections around the world. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, opened in 2013, houses the famous first egg which was owned by Empress Feodorovna. Seven imperial eggs, however, are actually still missing. But if Fabergé eggs are famous, and continue to be produced as jewels under the new management, there are also others in jewelery. Some others eggs are very gorgeous, such as the gold brooch signed by Cartier, while other eggs are less refined jewels, but still suitable to be combined on Easter day.

Uovo con gemme di Kristen Malan
Egg with Gems by Kristen Malan

Of course, we don’t necessarily have to stop at a simple jewel. Why not celebrate Easter with an oval cut diamond? Diamonds with this shape, in reality, are not exactly similar to a natural egg, but they are symmetrical. The two longer areas, therefore, are perfectly identical. The same goes for other gems cut with the oval shape. Oval cut diamonds are considered to be some of the most elegant and, when set on a ring, tend to make the fingers appear longer and tapered – something to consider.

Anello con diamante ovale di oltre 43 carati
Ring with oval diamond of over 43 carats

Decorating eggshells is an idea that has its roots in humanity. Ostrich eggs decorated and engraved 60,000 years ago have been found in Africa. In the pre-dynastic period of Egypt and the early cultures of Mesopotamia and Crete, eggs were associated with death and rebirth, especially if large in size. Ostrich eggs decorated with gold and silver were placed in the tombs of the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians 5,000 years ago. This tradition may have influenced early Christian and Islamic cultures in those areas, as well as through mercantile, religious and political ties from those areas around the Mediterranean, to being used by jewelry.

Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, composta da 206 perle di smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti rotondi e con taglio princess by Fabergé
Necklace in 18k rose gold, composed of 206 Zambian emerald pearls, round and princess cut diamonds by Fabergé
Nido composto a mano con un uovo d'oro e due uova di porcellana
Tiffany, handmade nest with a golden egg and two porcelain eggs
rina limor
Rina Limor, silver earrings with sapphires
Bibi van der Velden, orecchini in oro e avorio di mammuth
Bibi van der Velden, gold and mammoth ivory earrings
Raro uovo per lo zar Alessandro firmato Peter Carl Fabergé
Rare egg for Tsar Alexander signed Peter Carl Fabergé
Pendente di Jean-Schlumberger per Tiffany, con oro e diamanti
Pendant by Jean-Schlumberger for Tiffany, with gold and diamonds
Pendente di Fabergé con diamanti, smeraldi e acquamarina
Fabergé pendant with diamonds, emeralds and aquamarine

Giuseppina Fermi maverick

Jewels that are inspired by the Renaissance, with natural stones: it is the style of Giuseppina Fermi.
What can be your fate if your father leaves for China and imports ancient art and jewelry? And what if he then becomes a gemologist and jeweler? The answer, for Giuseppina Fermi, who passed away in 2017, was almost obvious: the world of jewelery is her world. Today carried on by her daughter, Ambra Fermi Pylinski. Pietro, his father, was also one of the pioneers in using fancy diamonds, while his wife founded one of the first jewelery shops. With these premises Giuseppina merged the teachings of her father and mother to create her line which she defines as going against the grain. In the sense that she does not embrace the minimal, geometric and essential philosophy which is the most used by young designers, but remains anchored to a sort of Renaissance-Baroque festival composed of putti, little angels, curls, gilding, symbols.

Ciondolo con la forma di angelo
Pendant in the shape of an angel

All together with natural stones, pearls, silver and gold. Although her activity is decentralized compared to those of other Maison: working, in fact, between Piacenza, her city, and Porto Rotondo, a sea town in Sardinia in summer is crowded with tourists famous, rich or both things together. Prices: The range is quite varied. It starts from a hundred euro for a pendant, up to more than 4,000 for a silver ring in rhodium-plated white gold, fluorite, gold, diamonds.

Orecchini in argento con cubic zirconia
Silver earrings with cubic zirconia
Anelli a forma di farfalla
Butterfly-shaped rings
Orecchini in bronzo con cubic zirconia
Bronze earrings with cubic zirconia
Ciondolo con perla barocca
Pendant with baroque pearl

How to evaluate the pavé of your jewels

Can you realy judge the pavé of your jewel? Pavé is the most used technique in jewelry, but few really know how it is made. Read how to evaluate the pavé stones on your jewels ♦

There are jewellery composed of gems so close to each other that it seems a continuous surface: is the effect of a pavé done perfectly, which transforms a flower, an insect or any shape in an object of unique harmony. The outcome is the result of many hours of work and great skills. Of course, recognize the best one is not difficult, just a certain sensitivity, but understand why it is so special makes the experience even more satisfying. Here a few examples of fine jewelry to get to know this technique: basically learn a bit more also helps to make better choices and make an informed purchase.

Plumettes, bracciale in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti by Dior
Plumettes, white gold and diamond pavé bracelet by Dior

The technique

Conical holes are dug in the metal where insert the stones, that are subsequently blocked (set) with tiny balls obtained engraving with a chisel (scorper) the excavated material on the sides of the stone. It is clear that it is a job, the one done handmade by the jewel setter, very neatly. The shortest distance between stones requires greater skill and care, which increase the cost of production. Vice versa wider spaces filled with these tiny balls indicate the opposite. But not only: the throng around the stone often provides an effect of overall confusion that the experts define by the word dirty.

Michele della Valle, spilla con pavé di zaffiri La Rose de Bourbon
Michele della Valle, La Rose de Bourbon sapphire pavé brooch

The Tubetto collection by De Grisogono is a textbook example: the blacks diamond of the ring below, although of different dimension, are all on the same level. It is the ability of the stone setter to ensure that larger gems not protrude too much and small ones remain in evidence, and that requires the groove depth must be calculated to the nearest millimeter, operation even more difficult when they are of different sizes. Moreover, the tiny balls that hold the stones are nearly invisible in pictures like this where the object is much zoomed.

Anello Tubetto con diamanti neri della ormai scomparsa Maison svizzera de Grisogono
Tubetto ring with black diamonds from the now closed Swiss Maison de Grisogono

Here two more examples of admirable invisible setting, the Camaleonte by Vhernier and the American flag earrings by Michele della Valle. Getting this kind of quality is much more difficult with colorless diamonds on white gold, because with colored stones, if the base is good, you can improve the pavé by coloring the metal. Furthermore, in these two cases the pavé is continuous, does not have metal slabs that circumscribe it, but wraps the setting. Detail which increases the difficulty and the execution time.

Vhernier, spilla Camaleonte con pavé di diamanti bianchi, sugilite, giada nera, opale arlecchino, cristallo di rocca
Vhernier, Chameleon brooch with pavé white diamonds, sugilite, black jade, harlequin opal, rock crystal
Michele della Valle, orecchini american flag con zaffiri, spinelli e diamanti
Michele della Valle, American flag earrings with sapphires, spinels and diamonds

Below is interesting to note the elegance of details: the tiny balls are in yellow or black gold depending on the color of the stones; in the second image instead, a mixed technique: the points on plate (cylinders applied on the metal instead of balls engraved with chisel) in the center and pavé on the sides.

De Grisogono dettaglio ciondolo
De Grisogono, detail of a pendant

Other examples of high all Italian handicraft: Drapes ring by Palmiero with stones of equal size despite the drape, and the Pom Pom bracelet by Pomellato.

Palmiero anelli Drapes
Palmiero, Drapes rings
Pomellato, bracciale PomPom
Pomellato, PomPom bracelet

Finally, always from Pomellato an example of pavé of line Sabbia, where seems that in the design phase at computer the space required to place the stones and tiny balls are pointed out without having to perform by hand  to get this precise effect. Monica Battistoni

Pomellato, anello Sabbia
Pomellato, Sabbia ring

How to clean silver jewelry

How to remove the patina that tarnish your silver jewelry and black that is formed on the surface with four quick moves.

Your silver jewelry that they have become blacks? Here’s how to make shiny and beautiful your silver jewelry. It is not difficult, just follow the instructions of this tutorial, which can also be used for other items made with white metal. First, because we see the jewels are ruined: the fogging occurs when the surface of the jewel silver is combined with sulfur, a substance that can be contained in the air (in particular, where there is more pollution) and transforms the metal into sulphide silver, which has the black color. But fortunately to eliminate fogging and black it is not difficult.

1 Hot Water

Cup of hot water, but not too much
Cup of hot water, but not too much

The first thing to do to clean the blackened silver is pour two cups of hot water, but not boiling, in a bowl. The water should cover the jewel (or jewels) completely.

2 Pour salt

 Spoon of salt
Spoon of salt

Pour in the water a tablespoon of coarse salt. The salt acts as a mild cleanser that removes oxidation without the risks a silver abrasion. Stir gently until the salt is dissolved completely. The amount of water must be proportionate to the number of jewels to clean. This method of cleaning is very delicate, but if the jewelry there are very expensive stones (even if it is difficult with the silver), it is preferable to bring the jewel from a professional, you never know. Alternative: Instead of salt you can use baking soda.

3 Aluminium sheet

Aluminium sheet
Aluminium sheet

Here comes the best part: after adding salt, you must put into the water a aluminum foil cut in strips, of those that are used in the kitchen to store food. The combination of salt and aluminum reacts tarnishing of silver and creates a bright shiny surface. This is because the silver sulfide reacts with the aluminum placed in a saline solution. The chemical reaction which takes place converts the silver sulphide in pure silver. You must control before the water is still hot. Leave to soak the jewelry for about 5 minutes. If silver is very tarnished you can repeat the process until the metal back perfectly bright.

4 Rinse the jewelry

Do not forget the last thing to do: move the jewelry under cold running water to remove the salt. Finally, dry the jewelry with a soft cloth or microfiber towel.

Pulizia dell'argento con un foglio di alluminio
Cleaning silver with aluminum foil
Un bracciale in argento che si è ossidato
An oxidized silver bracelet

The 10 most worn rings

Which ring to choose? Each shape of this jewel has its own meaning and its own name. Read what are the 10 kind of rings most worn and what they symbolize ♦

There are many types of rings: there are not only those for engagement or marriage. The shape of a ring also depends on which finger of the hand to wear it or on which occasion is more appropriate, because many types of rings also have a symbolic meaning. Not surprisingly, jewelers offer their rings with a precise definition, such as eternity, trilogy, solitaire, cocktail … Here are the 10 most requested ring models and what the different shapes of this jewel mean.

Anello in oro rosa con calcedonio della Namibia
Rose gold ring with Namibian chalcedony

1 Solitaire. It is the most popular and popular engagement ring: it has a diamond mounted on its own, with no other stones around it, on a metal band. Symbolic meaning: one diamond, one love. The stem can be in gold, most of the time white, or platinum, very rarely in silver or titanium. The solitaire ring symbolizes the commitment of a woman who agrees to marry the man who gives her the jewel. But, worn over time, it remains the sign of exclusive love. The solitaire can also be worn after marriage, together with the wedding band.

Tiffany Harmony, anello solitaire
Tiffany Harmony, solitaire ring

2 Eternity. Ring with a metal band (usually white gold) and a continuous line of gems (usually diamonds, but they are also offered with different stones, such as emeralds, rubies or sapphires). As the name indicates, eternity symbolizes love that never ends. It is a ring often given by a husband to his wife on an anniversary, usually after ten years of marriage. If the diamonds set do not follow the entire circumference, but only a part (also to make it more comfortable to wear), it is also defined as half-eternity. But in this case the concept is the same: eternal love (and even a minor expense).

Anello Live Diamond con diamanti prodotti in laboratorio
Live Diamond eternity ring with laboratory-produced diamonds

3 Wedding ring. It is the classic wedding ring, the most used. It is characterized by a usually smooth metal, most often yellow gold. The width is variable, it depends on your tastes. The ring offers the possibility to engrave the wedding date or the name of the wife or husband inside. Introduced by the ancient Romans, the wedding ring symbolizes the commitment made to marriage. The wedding ring is generally worn on the left hand on the ring finger, while in Central-Eastern Europe, and also in the Iberian Peninsula (except Catalonia), it is used to put it on the right.

Read also On which finger to wear the ring

Anello di Damiani con piccolo diamante all'interno
Damiani ring with small diamond inside

4 Toi et Moi. It is a ring with two similar, but not necessarily the same, stones set facing each other. A contrast, but also a union of two different personalities, which complement each other. It is a ring that symbolizes a close relationship between two people. Giving this ring as a gift is a bit like saying: always carry me with you. It is also a ring that allows designers and jewelers to test their imagination: rings of this type can be made with two simple stones, or with the choice of bold combinations.

Anello in oro bianco toi et moi con diamanti
Toi et moi white gold ring with diamonds by Shay

5 Phalanx ring. This ring has a smaller diameter than a normal ring: in fact, it is worn on the first or second phalanx of the finger. Used in antiquity, it is back in fashion now. But you need to pay attention to the size: it must be the right size so as not to risk losing it. It is usually very thin, light, often made of metal only, without stones.

Anelli firmati Ella
Rings signed Ella

6 Trinity. Ring designed by Cartier in 1924 and heavily imitated. It consists of three different metal bands of different colors and with different symbologies: pink gold indicates love, yellow gold is chosen as a sign of fidelity (because it recalls the wedding ring) and, finally, white gold signals friendship. The three metal bands intersect to form a single ring. Much appreciated especially by young people. It is also proposed with some variations, for example, with the use of stones set in the metal.

Trinity ring di Cartier
Trinity ring by Cartier

7 Trilogy. Not to be confused with the trinity ring. The trilogy ring indicates a metal band with three stones mounted, usually diamonds. It looks like a solitaire ring, but multiplied by three. The meaning? Well, if you search on Google you will find quite a few. But the real thing is: my dear, I can’t spend on one large diamond ring, but with three small ones I get (almost) the same effect. And that’s right.

Anello trilogy di Recarlo
Recarlo trilogy ring

8 Ring with secret. In fashion in the Middle Ages (they were also used to hide poison), they are now small and complex works of art. This type of ring came back into fashion in the Victorian era, because the secret compartment could be used to hold a message, a small portrait of the lover, or a symbol. It sounds unbelievable, but at that time there were no messages on Whastapp. They are bulky rings and the secret compartment today often reserves surprises.

Anelo con segreto di Theo Fennel
Ring with secret by Theo Fennel

9 Cocktail ring. Born during the years of Prohibition in the United States, these were worn by women at banned alcohol-based parties. Large, showy, with colored stones, they are afternoon or early evening rings. They symbolize, as the name indicates, the desire to have fun and a little to transgress. Given the size and bright colors, however, they are not easy to match with the dress.

Read also The secrets of the cocktail ring

Jacob, anello cocktail
Jacob, cocktail ring

10 Halo. The name indicates a ring with a diamond or other central stone and a crown of smaller gems around it. It is a gimmick of jewelry designers that serves to increase the visual impact of the stones, without having to resort to a larger and more expensive gem. It is a type of setting widely used for both demanding and less expensive rings.

Blue NIle, halo ring
Blue Nile, halo ring

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

All About Platinum

Want to buy a platinum ring? Here is what you need to know about platinum, one of the most precious metals used in jewelry, particularly for rings. And so, it’s better gold or platinum? ♦

“Do you prefer gold or platinum?”. It is one of the classic questions that usually hear who goes by the jeweler to buy a ring, in particular for the engagement or marriage. Who is not an expert you end up choosing the least expensive metal: gold. But to know the characteristics of what is the most rare and noble material, platinum, could lead to making a different choice.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, art deco style bracelet in platinum, diamonds and onyx

Features. The name platinum is derived from the Spanish word platina, which is literally translated into “little silver.” It’s very rare. And so it is also much more expensive than gold. It comes together with nickel and copper minerals, mainly in South Africa, where it is concentrated 80% of world production. Platinum is one of less alterable metals: has outstanding corrosion resistance, even at high temperatures, and is therefore considered a noble metal.

La corona realizzata per la regina Elisabetta , moglie del re Giorgio VI, la Regina madre: ha la cornice in platino
The crown made for Queen Elizabeth, wife of King George VI, the Queen Mother: it has a platinum frame

Platinum and jewelry. Platinum is used in jewelry for its lasting and elegance. It is soft, pliable and easy to work, but it is also strong and durable. For this, for example, it is very appreciated in jewelry to containing precious stones: the jaws platinum are more secure than those in gold. Also, the color goes well with the purity of diamonds. It’s often used in alloys with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium, but in this case should be reported. If you buy a platinum jewel beware that has the symbol ‘Plat’: means that platinum is a purity of 95%.

History. Platinum was already known by the ancient Egyptians: historians have established that a priestess commissioned a craftsman platinum hieroglyphics on her sarcophagus. And today, after 2500, the designs are perfectly intact. Even King Louis XVI (end of 1700) loved the platinum jewelry. And some of the most famous diamonds in the world were placed in a platinum structure, such as the Hope diamond.

Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platinum and diamonds

How do you clean platinum? Although platinum is a particularly resistant metal, it is necessary to provide for cleaning from time to time. The best method is always to dip the ring or bracelet in a bowl with hot, but not boiling water, in which you have melted a few drops of neutral liquid soap. After leaving the jewel to soak for ten minutes, rinse, and then gently rub (especially if there are also stones) with a toothbrush with soft bristles. Then, dry with a microfibre cloth: cotton or wool can leave residues attached to the jewel if it is not perfectly smooth. Another method is to soak the platinum jewel in a container of water with the addition of sodium bicarbonate. After a few minutes, pour half a glass of vinegar: for the reaction, water will start producing bubbles. After 10 minutes rinse the jewel in cold water.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting
Cartier, solitario in Platino e diamanti
Cartier, solitaire in platinum and diamonds
Luois Vuitton: fede in platino della collezione Empreinte, ispirata ai chiodi dei bauli con solitario incastonato. Prezzo 1890 euro
Louis Vuitton: platinum wedding ring from the Empreinte collection, inspired by trunk nails with a solitaire set
Bracciale di platino con diamanti e rubini venduto per 149mila dollari
Bracelet with diamonds and rubies
Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds circa 1950

The secret of Asscher house

The diamond jewels of the Asscher dynasty, which gaves its name to one of the most famous types of cut of the most precious stones ♦

Many know Asscher because it is also the name of a particular cut of diamonds. But the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, a Dutch company founded in 1854 by the Asscher family, also produces jewelery, which obviously make extensive use of diamonds. Do you think that the headquarters of the company is still the original one, in Tolstraat street, in Amsterdam. In the jewels there are the elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, which gave life to the Art Nouveau style, and then evolved into the Art Deco. Really regal pieces of jewelry. On the other hand, it is named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was conferred the honor of royal supplier by Queen Juliana. And in 2011 Queen Beatrice perpetuated the prefix “Royal” for another 25 years.

Orecchini Pavo con diamanti taglio Asscher
Pavo earrings with Asscher cut diamonds

Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. It became famous in the early 20th century for the work of Joseph and Abraham Asscher, and became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was awarded the Royal Dutch Predicate by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company’s importance in the Netherlands and worldwide.

Orecchini con diamanti per 1 carato con taglio Asscher
1 carat Asscher cut diamond earrings

The Asscher cut was born in 1902, invented by Joseph Asscher, who patented this special shape for the diamond. It was also the world’s first patented diamond cut. The original design featured 58 stepped facets and a steep pavilion with cut corners. Basically, it is an emerald cut diamond, but square and with cut corners. The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewelry, with its straight lines and faceted arrangement making it perfect for clean, graphic elements brought to life by movement.
Riproduzione della corona reale britannica, esposta nella sede di Asscher, con il grande diamante Cullinam
Reproduction of the British royal crown, exhibited in Asscher, with the large Cullinam diamonds

The history of the company is linked to some extraordinary diamonds: the Excelsior of 997 carats, one of the largest diamonds found. In 1903 Abraham Asscher divided the stone into ten diamonds to minimize defects (some inclusions). The diamond Excelsior is finished (but it is unknown if it is a merit) to be worn as a pendant from the bra, during the 2003 Victoria Secret Fantasy Bra show, worn by Heidi Klum. A complete intimate of about 13 million dollars. Another historical diamond is the Cullinan, discovered in 1905, of 3,106 carats (621.2 g). The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, who invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss how to cut the stone. Joseph Asscher divided the Cullinan into three parts. Then there are nine large stones: the largest is 530.20 carats (106.040 g), the Cullinan I. It is part of the jewels of the British crown.

[caption id="attachment_85020" align="aligncenter" width="709"]Anelli di fidanzamento della Maison Asscher Engagement rings from the Maison Asscher

A curiosity: during the months of the coronavirus epidemic, Mike and Lita Asscher decided they wanted to help fight covid-19 by creating a mask that printed the image of Asscher diamonds. The mask is made of non-medical fabric and is sold online: the profits were destined for scientists at the LUMC (Leiden University Medical Center).

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti
Yellow gold and diamond earrings
Anello con diamante taglio ovale
Ring with oval cut diamond
Anello con diamante taglio Asscher
Ring with Asscher cut diamond

Ingo Henn, luxury and surprises

Stones, volumes, romanticism and rationality: the jewelry of Ingo Henn with his Henn of London ♦

Ingo Henn belongs to the category of those who wanted to design jewelry since childhood. Not only that: as a child he loved the big colored stones. And he made it a profession. The designer, of German origin, but transplanted to London, uses precious stones with unique colors. Let’s face it all: it is the son of Hans-Jürgen Henn, one of the main gem dealers. As a good German, Ingo has done things right: he studied the profession of goldsmith (gemmology has learned at home), has traveled, has known techniques and designers at the highest level.

Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino
Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino

In the mid-nineties he decided to have learned what was necessary and founded his brand in the jewelery district of Hatton Garden, in London. The jewelry is right next to the offices of the company that trades in gems. Germanic rationality. But this does not prevent Ingo Henn from developing some of the most romantically eclectic jewels of our century, with his Maison, Henn of London. Precious stones of refined color and quality, but combined with a precious design for the combination of colors and surprising use of volumes. His jewels are unique pieces, designed around the color and type of stone used.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati

How much are black pearls worth?

The precious black pearls: have you heard of them? Read how to recognize them and how much they are worth ♦

To indicate something of value is said to be as precious as a pearl. But if the pearl is black, the value increases. In fact, not all pearls are white: the black ones (also known as Tahitian pearls) are very valuable. Actually they are not really black, but only darker in color, tending to gray. They are the fruits of the oyster Pinctada margaritifera (also called the Tahitian black pearl oyster), a mollusk that lives Indo-Pacific Ocean at the latitude of the Tropics.

Collana con perla di Tahiti e diamanti
Necklace with Tahitian pearl and diamonds

Black pearls are found in many shades, metal color, many shades of gray (who knows, maybe 50 …), but also green peacock (they are considered particularly valuable), or to purple, like eggplant, and brown dark. The color depends on the minerals that the clam has ingested contained in the plankton, the food of oysters. In the cultivation of pearls, however, they are using dye or irradiation to improve or change their color. But do not expect to identify them: it is difficult to pick a natural pearl from a treated. As for gems, pearls also have values ​​(and costs) different.

The name of these pearls is, of course, linked to the place where they are grown, ie mainly around the islands of French Polynesia, near Tahiti.

Yoko London, Aurora necklace
Yoko London, Aurora necklace

The value of pearls in jewelry is determined by a combination of brightness, color, size, lack of surface defects and symmetry. A perfectly round bead is considered more precious, while elongated drop-shaped pearls are often used in pendants. Another aspect to consider is the shine, which is an important element of differentiation of the quality of the pearl.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti
Assael, ring from the Bubble collection with Tahitian pearls

So, how much are Tahitian black pearls worth? As we said, it really depends on the size and quality. Also, there are pearls out there that are simply colored black. A not too long necklace with a string of real black pearls can have a value ranging from a few hundred euros or dollars, if made up of smaller and lower quality ones, up to a few tens of thousands of euros/dollars if the pearls have a good sheen, are natural and have a regular spherical shape.

If you have jewels with pearls of this color, treat them with care: pearls are delicate and can deteriorate if not treated well. In any case, if you want to know how to clean jewels with pearls, we advise you to read the article we have already published and which explains in detail what you need to do to keep jewels with pearls clean, but without damaging them.

Collana di perle di Tahiti, oro giallo, lapislazzuli
Tahitian pearl necklace, yellow gold, lapis lazuli

How to distinguish a black Tahitian pearl from an imitation, fake? In fact, online there are extraordinary offers of jewelry with low price Tahitian pearls. These are most likely colored freshwater pearls. Unfortunately, from the images on the web it is not easy to distinguish real Tahitian pearls from imitations. Colored pearls, however, usually have a uniform hue, while real pearls tend to have color variations on the surface. Furthermore, often the color used to make the pearls black is concentrated more near the small hole where the thread that binds the pearls passes. Then, look with a loupe if the hole in the pearl looks darker than the rest.

Tahitian pearls are judged based on a strict classification. Here it is:

1 Shape: if is more round on a regular basis, plus the pearl is appreciated.

Perle nere
Black pearls

2 Size: bigger is better.

Necklace with Tahitian pearls
Necklace with Tahitian pearls

3 Surface: it is preferred that very smooth, with no flaws.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e chiusura in oro
Necklace with Tahitian pearls and gold clasp

4 Luster: if he shines the most valuable.

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti
Ring with black Tahitian pearl with violet hue and diamonds

5 Nacre: more the pearl is thicker, it will last over time.

Anello in argento con perla tahitiana
Silver ring with Tahitian pearl

6 Color: the most popular colors are peacock green, or shades tending to blue, pink, gold, silver, purple eggplant.

Anello Dawn, in oro nero, diamanti, perle di Tahiti, granati e citrini
Dawn ring, in black gold, diamonds, Tahitian pearls, garnets and citrines

The precious leaves of Michael Aram

Handcrafted worked metal and colored stones in jewelery by Michael Aram ♦ ︎

In Hindi, the word aram means “sweetness, peace, love, and care.” If this is Michael Aram’s mood, it is uncertain. In any case, he emphasizes this semantic affinity. Michael Aram is an American designer and artist, born in New York, where he works. At the end of the 1980s he traveled to India and this trip changed his life: he discovered the tradition of metalworking and created a home and laboratory in New Delhi. From there, the business continued and Aram founded a company that produces home design items. Furniture, design, but craftsmanship. But it also offers jewelry.

Orecchini in argento rodiato nero, oro, diamanti
Earrings in black rhodium-plated silver, gold, diamonds

The passion for ancient traditions has been linked to an entrepreneurial spirit that has transformed it into a signature in its field. But after a few years, Michael Aram has expanded his business to jewelry as well. Of course with collections that have hand-crafted metal their fulcrum. Not only that: Micheal Aram’s jewels, which also appeared at Couture 2017 in Las Vegas, make a large use of precious stones and precious stones, as in the Botanical Leaf collection. This is something that the Indian likes too much.

Collana con perle grigie, ametrine, zaffiri viola
Necklace with gray pearls, ametrine, purple sapphires
Anello in oro, argento rodiato nero e diamanti
Ring in gold, black rhodium-plated silver and diamonds
Anello Butterfly Ginko in oro, argento e diamanti
Butterfly Ginko ring in gold, silver and diamonds
Orecchini Butterfly Ginko in oro, argento e diamanti
Butterfly Ginko earrings in gold, silver and diamonds
Anello Butterfly Ginko, in argento, oro, diamanti
Butterfly Ginko ring, in silver, gold, diamonds
Orecchini a foglia in argento con diamanti
Silver leaf earrings with diamonds

The gems of Pamela Huizenga

The dance of the stones drives Pamela Huizenga fantasy: unique pieces with gems at the center of her creativity ♦

At 16, in Florida, Pamela Huizenga had already shown her passion for stones. The minerals were collected, as long as were a bit shining, and brought home. She did not suspect, though, that after a few years would become a well-known and appreciated designer. Actually there is a pause in her history: after studying the cutting of stones and the secrets of an accomplished artisan goldsmith in North Carolina, she was married and had three children.

Collana con diamanti grezzi
Necklace with rough diamonds

But the passion for the stones has prevailed. The start of the conversion to jewelry designer was a bit casual, with the purchase of an Ethiopian opal on eBay. It was 2009. From this stone began the path that has turned into a jewelry professional, that only creates unique pieces. His creations are made between Florida, New York and Bali, where work an artisan woman specialized in the processing of silver pieces. Needless to say the center of its jewels include especially stones, especially those who have something special: turquoise, jade, opals of different types (Ethiopian or Mexican), but also fossils and petrified wood are the basic elements upon which you exercise the fantasy of Pamela. The prices of her jewels start at about $ 4,000.

Bracciale con turchesi
Bracelet with turquoises
Collana in oro e aquaprase
Necklace in gold and aquaprase pearls
Collana in oro bianco e malachite
Necklace in white gold and malachite
Collana con cluster di diamanti grezzi
Rough diamond cluster necklace
Orecchini con acquamarina
Aquamarine earrings
Orecchini con spessartite
Spessartite earrings

How to combine jewels with face and skin

How to match jewelry, skin color and face shape? Here are some tips ♦

The key to the success of each look is the combination. And this also applies to jewelry: they are not neutral accessories, but must be chosen based on the dress, the occasion, the shape of the face and also the color of the skin. In short, the choice must be considered following some simple principles, for example the shape of the oval and another aspect, which is underestimated by many, the correspondence between stones and metals and the tone of your face. It is not true that yellow gold is always good: in many cases it is white or pink gold that enhances your body more.

Bracciale e collana indossati
Giovanni Raspini, silver bracelet and necklace worn

How to discover your hue: just bring a sheet of white paper (which is really white, not ivory) close to the make-up face and look carefully in the mirror at the nuances that are reflected on the paper. If it is the white of the paper it becomes slightly pink, your face has a cold tinge, while if you see a shadow with a yellow accent, the shade is warmer. Obviously there are many nuances between the two extremes. Be careful, though: you have to do this experiment using natural light (no incandescent, neon or led lamps). Not only that: the natural light, that of the sun or the sky, must not be that of the morning at dawn or in the evening just before sunset, when the sun’s rays color nature with a particularly warm shade.

Prima regola: verificate il vero colore della vostra pelle
First rule: check the true color of your skin

Gold or silver: for leathers with a colder or neutral shade, it is better to choose silver, platinum or white gold. If, on the other hand, the hue is warmer, the yellow and pink gold will stand out more, but also the bronze, the golden brass and the copper. Of course, there are also skin colors that are somewhere in between: in this case what matters is balance. But, be careful: we must not exaggerate: those with very brown, olive skin must not cover themselves with yellow gold like a Christmas tree. In summary: the metal of the jewels should be chosen in harmony with the color of the skin: who has a very light shade can choose white metals, who has a Mediterranean or dark color, will appear better with metals that have more intense shades.

Metallo bianco e pelle chiara
White metal and light skin

Stones and complementary colors: the cool shades of the skin combine well especially with white pearls and diamonds. So no color? Don’t worry, you can also wear pink, blue, red and magenta stones. The warmer tones go well with coral and earth colors, therefore brown, green, peach yellow, orange and all shades of turquoise. Attention, these are general rules: the possible combinations are really many also because there are other aspects to be taken into account such as the combination of skin, eye and hair color. In addition, the shape of the face also counts for earrings and necklaces. Not to mention that a beautiful jewel can always be worn if you like, regardless of these aspects.

Gioielli di corallo rosa di Rajola indossati dalla modella Federica Calemme
Rajola pink coral jewelery worn by model Federica Calemme

Match the jewels to the shape of the face

Heart shape: if your face is round, with a thinner chin, that is, it has a heart shape, it is better to opt for not too large hanging earrings to avoid the effect of enlarging the face. A choker necklace, on the other hand, is the most suitable accessory to soften the tip of the chin.

Collana indossata di Evanueva
Evanueva necklace worn

Round or square face: oval or geometric pendant earrings, such as rectangles, can lengthen the lines of the face and offer a sweeter symmetry. For necklaces, it is preferable to choose long ones, also in this case to streamline the shape of the face, if it develops too wide.

Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi di Chopard indossati da Julienne Moore
Chopard diamond and emerald earrings worn by Julienne Moore

Rectangular face: the lobe earrings can give an extra touch and soften the lines of the face, without creating an imbalance. Hoop earrings are also fine, especially if they are small. As for necklaces, if the neck is beautiful and long, a choker will be fine.

Orecchini punto luce indossati
Worn stud earrings

Oval face: the choice of earrings is quite intuitive: they must not be too long and it is even better if they have a geometric shape, which contrasts with the regularity of your face. You don’t need to sweeten it, but to add a breaking element. For necklaces you have ample freedom of choice, even if a long neck will be balanced with a choker.

Orecchini della collezione Eyes, indossati di Cora Sheibani
Earrings from the Eyes collection, worn by Cora Sheibani

Aquamarine at x-ray

All you need to know about one of the gems most loved by jewelry: the aquamarine, which is also the stone of the month of March ♦

The aquamarine is one of the stones most used in jewelry. Major brands of jewelry have included it in their collections. Yet it is little known by the general public that ignores the quality and, above all, the features.

Anello Lyla's Bow con diamanti acquamarina brasiliana
Vania Leles, Lyla’s Bow ring with Brazilian aquamarine diamonds

Identikit. Transparent and crystalline: not by chance is called aquamarine that glitter even under lowlight conditions. A quality that makes it a “star” of fine jewelry. Like emerald, is a stone that belongs to the beryl family. The structure, however, is very different from the green gem: the iron impurities inside give that deep azure blue color, while chromium and vanadium tinged with green emerald. Almost always, the aquamarine is without inclusions: whether appear the star effect or the one called cat eyes it becomes invaluable. Its hardness allows jewelers to experiment with innovative cuts and, in fact, has been used for the Color du Temps necklace from the Peau d’âne collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, for the jewelry designed by Tiffany in the movie The Great Gatsby, for the Bulgari Serpente bought by Justin Bieber during the charity auction at Cannes Film Festival.

Pomellato, bracciale Pom Pom in oro rosa e argento con 729 acquamarina taglio brillante per un totale di oltre 17 carati
Pomellato, Pom Pom bracelet in rose gold and silver with 729 brilliant cut aquamarine for a total of over 17 carats

Color. the range of colors of aquamarine is very narrow: blue, slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, blue-green, blue. The rarest shades are dark blue and slightly greenish blue. In general, the more intense is blue, greater is the stone value: that’s why the most common ones tend to light green.

Acquamarina allo stato naturale
Aquamarine in its natural state

Treatment. Aquamarine is a mineral that is almost always the subject of a treatment to make it more pleasant. Much of the aquamarine in its natural state, in fact, has a blue-green color. For this reason the stone is heated to a rather high temperature. This process can remove the greenish color from the material and transform the hue of the stone into a pleasant deep blue. So if they tell you that an aquamarine is absolutely natural you do not have to believe it. But this does not mean that the result can’t be appreciated.

Anello con acquamarina taglio cuscino, lato superiore . Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere
Lydia Courteille, ring with cushion cut aquamarine, upper side. Blue titanium, aquamarine, sapphires, maidenhair quartz

Provenance. The best known reserves of aquamarine are those in Minas Gerais, whose buds have a distinctive deep blue color. Always in Brazil there is the Santa Maria de Itabira mine with deep blue, stones which are a favorite choice of gemologists. Other deposits are exploited on an industrial scale in the Urals, Nigeria, Madagascar, Mozambique and Pakistan. As a rule, the color is saturated if weigh more than 5 carats, while the smaller stones are lighter, with the exception of some specimens from Madagascar, known for a very strong hues even if under 5 carats. That’s why it costs more compared to other stones of the same color, but as higher dimensions.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti
Sanalitro, ring with aquamarine and diamonds
Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. orecchini Seven Leaves con due aquamarine oval per un totale di 14,89 carati e diamanti taglio brillante
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Leaves earrings with two oval aquamarines for a total of 14.89 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina
Hemmerle, earrings in white gold, aluminium, silver, aquamarine
Spilla con acquamarina, oro bianco, diamanti
Naomi Sarna, brooch with aquamarine, white gold, diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Mirco Visconti, ring in white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Orecchini Trilliant, con oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Fadoua Hueb, Trilliant earrings, with white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Fraleoni, anello con acquamarina
Fraleoni, ring with aquamarine

Goodbye to Iris Arpfel, between fashion and jewels

The imaginative jewelery of Iris Arpfel, the fashion muse who passed away at the age of 102.

Until the venerable age of 102, Iris Apfel continued to fly the flag of fashion, even when it came to jewelry. Perhaps the Mediterranean diet is not the medicine that makes you live long, but the pleasure of wearing ever new colors and shapes, who knows, perhaps you had a say in the matter. In any case, the white-haired trendesetter had launched the Peculiar bijoux line a few years ago, linked to the Tim Burton film, Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children (in Italian: Miss Peregrine – La Casa dei Ragazzi Speciali).

Catena con ciondolo a forma di gabbia per uccelli
Bird cage pendant chain

“The concept for that film aligns well with my personal perspective on style and life in general,” Apfel explained. “I am a huge fan of Tim Burton and his work and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be part of a project that celebrates individuality.” The collection includes a black feather necklace, a pendant necklace bird cage, a ring with crystals. It will no longer be possible to say that age clouds the imagination. Goodbye Iris.

Collana con piume
Necklace with feathers

Orecchini della collezione Peculiar
Earrings from the Peculiar collection
Anello con cristalli
Ring with crystals
Iris Arpfel
Iris Arpfel

The Fartan’s Etruscan Patents

In the goldsmith district of Arezzo, the Fartan Group intends to continue the tradition. Starting from the name: according to what the company emphasizes, Fartan in the ancient Etruscan language means “genius, vital and creative force”. In short, the claim of ancient roots, but at the same time the desire not to be left behind from a technological point of view. The production of jewelry proves this. The company, in fact, boasts numerous patents concerning both specific processing models and the machinery used. The idea is to combine technology with the creativity of Italian design. A story that has been going on for about forty years, with a good result, as evidenced by the collections.

Set della collezione Rondò
Set from the Rondò collection

The sole shareholder and director of the company since 2009 is Leonardo Terziani, who has behind him a career as an engineer and project manager in companies in the mechanical sector: a background that testifies to the industrial approach of the brand, which works in particular for third parties. Terziani’s experience has yielded innovation. For exemple, for Multi-light a patented technology for the insertion of elements in the basic chain: the final result is a unique jewel, which presents a “dynamic brightness”. Or Atmosphere, also with a patented technology for the insertion of precious inserts, which «generates remarkable harmony and linearity (with pre-established pitch) and avoids any unsightly overlapping of the elements. Extreme brilliance of the jewel thanks to the direct and reflected brightness ». Or, again, Rondò, which derive from a specific processing «thanks to which it is possible to obtain in the finished product areas with different surface finishes that create captivating plays of light, accentuated by the possible different colors». In short, creativity lies not only in the design or choice of a stone, but also in identifying intelligent construction techniques. Perhaps this is also a legacy of the Etruscans.

collane rondo
Necklaces from the Rondò collection
Collana della linea Dna
DNA line necklace
Collane della linea Holly
Necklaces from the Holly line
Collana Holly di Fartan
Holly necklace by Fartan
Collane della collezione Holly
Necklaces from the Holly collection
orecchini fartan
Fartan earrings
Collana della linea Dna
DNA line necklace
Orecchini Dna
DNA earrings

The combinations of Roule & Co

Playing volumes by Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire: a precious Tetris of jewelery ♦ ︎
Maybe Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire are passionate about Tetris, the game that consists of combining geometric geometric shapes. Perhaps yes, because the jewels of their Roule & Co brand, born in New York in 2010, who for the second consecutive year arrived among the finalists at the Las Vegas Couture Design Award, seem to be assorted by combining the simplest geometric shapes, such as triangles , circles, squares. Only combinations are multiplied and the same volumes of jewels are covered by other small areas, in turn triangles, circles, hexes, and so on.

Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti4
18k yellow gold and diamond bracelet

Like the forms of Tetris must be complementary, so is the work of Christopher and Laurin, husband and wife who founded the jewelery brand. The simplicity of the style is only apparent: in fact jewelry often surprising with the possibility of the enclosed elements, as small precious stones. But jewels also have architectural references, as in the Wired collection inspired by the hyperbole of engineering used by archistar and past characters, such as Buckminster Fuller, Gustave Eiffel and Antoni Gaudí.

Orecchini in oro brunito e rubini
Blackened gold and ruby earrings
Laurin-Lucaire
Laurin Lucaire
Ciondolo in oro rosa e rubini
Pendant in rose gold and rubies
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti champagne
14k rose gold and champagne diamond ring
Anello in oro bianco annerito con ametista cabochon e diamanti bianchi
Blackened white gold ring with cabochon amethyst and white diamonds
Ciondolo in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti bianchi
Pendant in 14k rose gold and white diamonds