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Goodbye to Iris Arpfel, between fashion and jewels

The imaginative jewelery of Iris Arpfel, the fashion muse who passed away at the age of 102.

Until the venerable age of 102, Iris Apfel continued to fly the flag of fashion, even when it came to jewelry. Perhaps the Mediterranean diet is not the medicine that makes you live long, but the pleasure of wearing ever new colors and shapes, who knows, perhaps you had a say in the matter. In any case, the white-haired trendesetter had launched the Peculiar bijoux line a few years ago, linked to the Tim Burton film, Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children (in Italian: Miss Peregrine – La Casa dei Ragazzi Speciali).

Catena con ciondolo a forma di gabbia per uccelli
Bird cage pendant chain

“The concept for that film aligns well with my personal perspective on style and life in general,” Apfel explained. “I am a huge fan of Tim Burton and his work and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to be part of a project that celebrates individuality.” The collection includes a black feather necklace, a pendant necklace bird cage, a ring with crystals. It will no longer be possible to say that age clouds the imagination. Goodbye Iris.

Collana con piume
Necklace with feathers

Orecchini della collezione Peculiar
Earrings from the Peculiar collection
Anello con cristalli
Ring with crystals
Iris Arpfel
Iris Arpfel

The Fartan’s Etruscan Patents

In the goldsmith district of Arezzo, the Fartan Group intends to continue the tradition. Starting from the name: according to what the company emphasizes, Fartan in the ancient Etruscan language means “genius, vital and creative force”. In short, the claim of ancient roots, but at the same time the desire not to be left behind from a technological point of view. The production of jewelry proves this. The company, in fact, boasts numerous patents concerning both specific processing models and the machinery used. The idea is to combine technology with the creativity of Italian design. A story that has been going on for about forty years, with a good result, as evidenced by the collections.

Set della collezione Rondò
Set from the Rondò collection

The sole shareholder and director of the company since 2009 is Leonardo Terziani, who has behind him a career as an engineer and project manager in companies in the mechanical sector: a background that testifies to the industrial approach of the brand, which works in particular for third parties. Terziani’s experience has yielded innovation. For exemple, for Multi-light a patented technology for the insertion of elements in the basic chain: the final result is a unique jewel, which presents a “dynamic brightness”. Or Atmosphere, also with a patented technology for the insertion of precious inserts, which «generates remarkable harmony and linearity (with pre-established pitch) and avoids any unsightly overlapping of the elements. Extreme brilliance of the jewel thanks to the direct and reflected brightness ». Or, again, Rondò, which derive from a specific processing «thanks to which it is possible to obtain in the finished product areas with different surface finishes that create captivating plays of light, accentuated by the possible different colors». In short, creativity lies not only in the design or choice of a stone, but also in identifying intelligent construction techniques. Perhaps this is also a legacy of the Etruscans.

collane rondo
Necklaces from the Rondò collection
Collana della linea Dna
DNA line necklace
Collane della linea Holly
Necklaces from the Holly line
Collana Holly di Fartan
Holly necklace by Fartan
Collane della collezione Holly
Necklaces from the Holly collection
orecchini fartan
Fartan earrings
Collana della linea Dna
DNA line necklace
Orecchini Dna
DNA earrings

The combinations of Roule & Co

Playing volumes by Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire: a precious Tetris of jewelery ♦ ︎
Maybe Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire are passionate about Tetris, the game that consists of combining geometric geometric shapes. Perhaps yes, because the jewels of their Roule & Co brand, born in New York in 2010, who for the second consecutive year arrived among the finalists at the Las Vegas Couture Design Award, seem to be assorted by combining the simplest geometric shapes, such as triangles , circles, squares. Only combinations are multiplied and the same volumes of jewels are covered by other small areas, in turn triangles, circles, hexes, and so on.

Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti4
18k yellow gold and diamond bracelet

Like the forms of Tetris must be complementary, so is the work of Christopher and Laurin, husband and wife who founded the jewelery brand. The simplicity of the style is only apparent: in fact jewelry often surprising with the possibility of the enclosed elements, as small precious stones. But jewels also have architectural references, as in the Wired collection inspired by the hyperbole of engineering used by archistar and past characters, such as Buckminster Fuller, Gustave Eiffel and Antoni Gaudí.

Orecchini in oro brunito e rubini
Blackened gold and ruby earrings
Laurin-Lucaire
Laurin Lucaire
Ciondolo in oro rosa e rubini
Pendant in rose gold and rubies
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti champagne
14k rose gold and champagne diamond ring
Anello in oro bianco annerito con ametista cabochon e diamanti bianchi
Blackened white gold ring with cabochon amethyst and white diamonds
Ciondolo in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti bianchi
Pendant in 14k rose gold and white diamonds

Glenn Spiro, fantasy of titanium

The creations in titanium (and not only) of the London brand G by Glenn Spiro

The London jeweler Glenn Spiro in 2016 opened the new atelier of G, his brand, in the former salon of fashion designer Sir Norman Hartnell, in the heart of Mayfair. It occupies the first floor of a Georgian-style building, designed in 1930 by architect Gerald Lacoste, with walls upholstered mirrors and chair signed by Marco Zanuso. They are in line with the stylistic choices of the designers choice, following the absolute British tradition.

Orecchini in titanio color turchese e diamanti Wavy Heart
Turquoise titanium Wavy Heart diamond earrings

Which, as noted, it includes a good dose of originality. Born in east London into a family of modest means, Spiro left school at 15 to follow vocational training courses with which he learned the art of jewelry making. After a stint as a goldsmith in Hatton Garden, he opened a laboratory in Farringdon, east London, when he was 21 years old. All recognize him two qualities: eye for judging the exquisite stones and his gab. Both of these aspects are useful in the jeweler profession. Along the first years of his work he was mainly produce for other big brands. Then, he won his audience thanks to unusual jewelery creations (you can see some examples in these images). Pieces are often one-of-a-kind, in many cases created thanks to the ability to use titanium, also in the colored version, as lightweight and durable metal with which incur significant stones. The effect is stunning. On the other hand, in jewelry the unconventionality is the most traditional way of life.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Ring in rose gold and diamonds

Anello Papillon in titanio, oro bianco, rubini e diamanti
Papillon ring in titanium, white gold, rubies and diamonds
Orecchini Foglie d'autunno con smeraldi e diamanti
Autumn leaves earrings with emeralds and diamonds
Orecchini conchiglia con diamanti e oro bianco
Shell earrings with diamonds and white gold
Orologio con diamanti e zaffiri: il quadrante è nascosto da petali che si aprono per mostrare le lancette
Watch with diamonds and sapphires: the dial is hidden by petals that open to reveal the hands
Anello con rubini e diamante
Ring with rubies and diamond
Orecchini lisca di pesce, con diamanti e rubini
Fishbone earrings, with diamonds and rubies

Sorellina loves the daring

The brand in New York Sorellina, by Nicole’s and Kim Carosella’s, born for daring women ♦ ︎

Sorellina is an Italian word meaning little sister, but it is also an affectionate way of expressing a very intimate woman friend. In the case of Sorellina, the two aspects coincide. To use the Italian language are two Sisters of Long Island, near New York, Nicole and Kim Carosella. The surname, indeed, indicates the origin of the family in the country that created the Pisa Tower and invented the pizza (that would be enough for a sympaty for Italy). Their jewels are highly appreciated: Sorellina came first in the Best in Platinum category at the Couture Design Awards in 2023.

La collana in platino, perle, diamanti, zaffiri vincitrice nella categoria Best in Platinum ai Couture Design Awards 2023
The platinum, pearl, diamond and sapphire necklace winner in the Best in Platinum category at the 2023 Couture Design Awards

Nicole and Kim had also as when were little girls, they tell, passion for design, art and, of course, jewels. Nicole studied Fine Arts, but in California, especially photography. Then, he began collecting vintage jewels and studied jewelery design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Kim, the youngest, studied art history at the University of New Orleans. Afterwards, he chose to live in Florence, Italy.
After, the experiences of the two sisters have come transformed in Sorellina, which proposes “jewels neither thin nor discrete”. In contrast, Sorellina’s pieces are bold, with a mix of female and masculine, vintage and modern style.

Orecchini in oro, tormalina blu e lapislazzuli intagliati
Carved gold, blue tourmaline and lapis lazuli earrings
Nicole & Kim Carosella
Nicole & Kim Carosella
Anello cocktail in oro giallo, tanzanite, zaffiri blu e diamanti
Cocktail ring in yellow gold, tanzanite, blue sapphires and diamonds
Pendente La Papessa Owl in oro giallo, acquamarina intagliata, diamanti
La Papessa Owl pendant in yellow gold, carved aquamarine, diamonds
Pendente La Forza Piccola Tarot Card, in oro giallo, malachite, zaffiro orange e rosa, diamanti
La Forza Piccola Tarot Card pendant, in yellow gold, malachite, orange and pink sapphire, diamonds

The sinuous jewels of Marta Paolillo

Destiny is a curved line, often with a tortuous path that turns into small labyrinths, curls, broken circles. The curves are those designed by Marta Paolillo, one of the Italian design signatures, based in Rome. She is one of the few capable of proposing something different, and also one of the few who can boast a starred pedigree. Meanwhile, her birthplace is on her side: the family has been working with stones and jewels since 1880. And with her father, a diamond and precious stone trader, she has traveled the world and boasts first-hand knowledge of the market. But she also graduated from the Gemological Institute of America and founded the IGL, Gemmological Analysis Laboratory with which she carries out appraisal reports.

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri e diamanti
OEarrings in white gold, sapphires and diamonds

In short, for her the stones have no secrets. However, it is the use she makes of it that makes her proposal special: the jewels have a linear and at the same time baroque style, they are rich, but at the same time sober, they are large, but at the same time light. She is also attentive to new technologies and she uses materials such as titanium, carbon steel, Stingray leather (galuchat), alongside the classic 18k gold. Collections like Snake, which takes up the classic snake motif, are the height of sinuosity. Others, like Jaipur, combine the convolutions of the metal with the color of the stones. And there is no shortage of surprising proposals: such as the deck of (flexible) playing cards in gold.
Anello in oro 18 carati
18k gold ring

Orecchini in oro
Gold earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendant earrings in white gold, sapphires, diamonds
Marta Paolillo
Marta Paolillo
Anello serpente in oro e diamanti
Snake ring in gold and diamonds

The art of Carlo Luca della Quercia

Carlo Luca della Quercia, a story behind in the form of a snake ♦ ︎

A century of history that get revival: it is 27 years Carlo Luca della Quercia, brand born in the last century and rebuilt by Giovanni along with Carlo and Gian Luca in the eldorado of the Italian jewelery, Valenza, in 1997.
Carlo della Quercia studied gemmology at the Gia of New York and N.Y. University. Gian Luca studied in Milan and London with artistic title. This luggage has enabled the revival of historic jewels of the early twentieth century and art deco, preserved in the archives of the Maison. Among the jewels that more than others have found in the story of Carlo Luca della Quercia, there is the Serpenti series, one of the most famous jewel forms.

Bracciale Serpente con madreperla
Snake bracelet with mother of pearl

But that, to be realized as it should be, it needs a careful and expert working. Snakes are extensible bracelets of varying lengths, which can vary in length: from one lap to several laps. All are made entirely by hand, each single flange is connected to the next with retractable pins and with the introduction inside two gold springs extending in the opposite direction and they contribute to giving the maximum extension to the bracelet. Snake bracelets can only be gold in enamelled warm in different shades of gold in gold-plated mother of pearl, enriched with gemstones embedded in pavé on the head and beads in the eyes.
In short, in order to succeed it need have a great deal of expertise. And in fact, part of the company’s business takes place on behalf of major international Maison, which entrusts to their laboratory the realization of their own jewels.

Insomma, per riuscirci bisogna possedere una grande perizia. E infatti, parte della attività dell’azienda si svolge per conto di grandi Maison internazionali, che affidano al loro laboratorio la realizzazione di propri gioielli.

Anello in oro 18 carati, con zaffiro birmano, acquamarina e diamanti
18k gold ring, with Burmese sapphire, aquamarine and diamonds
Anello anni Sessanta con zaffiro di Ceylon di 18,16 carati e diamanti
1960s ring with 18.16 carat Ceylon sapphire and diamonds
Collana di smeraldi e ametista
Emerald and amethyst necklace
Anello serpente in oro, smalto, diamanti
Snake ring in gold, enamel, diamonds

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

The bespoke pieces of Fei Liu

The high jewelery by Fei Liu, a Chinese designer who chose England ♦ ︎

Have you ever heard of Chongqing? Probably not, if you are not Chinese. Yet it is a city of central and southern China with a population of about 7-8 million inhabitants, much like London. Perhaps this is why the designer, Fei Liu, when he landed in Britain, chose Birmingham to launch his own brand in 2006. It is a less cyclopic town, that perhaps leaves more room for those who live there and with a good tradition in jewelry.

Orecchini con zaffiri blu, tsavoriti, diamanti
Earrings with blue sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds

And so, Fei Liu in a few years has won a burst of awards. Alongside most of its production, innovative and direct to a vast audience (see also: Fei Liu, China in England), the designer works even at bespoke pieces, such as those on this page. For these pieces, he use platinum, gold and silver, in addition to precious stones, in truly original combinations, such as the white poppy-inspired brooch,with stem made with tsavorite, Australian opal for petals, and diamonds on the stamens like dewdrops, while a jade shines in the center.

Orecchini con topazio blu e quarzo citrino
Earrings with blue topaz and citrine quartz
Orecchini con turchese intagliato
Earrings with carved turquoise
Orecchini con opale e topazio
Earrings with opal and topaz
Orecchini in oro con tormalina verde e malachite
Gold earrings with green tourmaline and malachite

How to choose an engagement ring

How to choose an engagement ring? We have asked several people, men and women.

Once upon a time, engagement rings were only made of yellow gold. It is the most traditional gold, the one that signals the value of the metal. Today, however, a yellow gold engagement ring has a slightly vintage feel, even if it always remains a classic. Someone prefers it this way, precisely because of its taste of a jewel from other times, but with a value that will remain intact for the future as well. In this case, however, it is better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond set.

Yellow gold. Once the engagement rings were made in yellow gold. It is the more traditional gold, which indicates that the value of the metal. Today, however, an engagement ring in yellow gold has a vintage feel. Some people prefer it so, just for its flavor jewel of other times. In this case , however, better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond.

Anello indossato della collezione Motion
Ring worn from PdPaola’s Motion collection

White gold. Beware: in reality there is the white gold. It is, you know, gold mixed with some metal without color, such as silver, nickel, manganese and/or (more rarely) palladium. Beware, then by those who proposed a ring in “pure white gold”. It is often coated with rhodium to give it a patina whiter and a brilliant finish. This type of ring after a few years it should be dipped again in a solution in order to maintain its white color and luster and replace the rhodium plating, otherwise it will return to the color of its main ingredient: yellow gold. It’s a hassle, but in reality the process is relatively inexpensive, and many jewelers offer this service for free.

Anello con diamante a taglio marquise
White gold ring with marquise cut diamond

Red and rose gold. The red gold is a alloy with copper. It’s not used traditional for engagement rings, less than complicated processes that combine white gold or yellow. An engagement ring in red gold, which is very fashionable for other types of jewelry, it is considered a bit too bling, inelegant. Of course, the design of the ring counts for a lot in the final judgment.

Anello doppio in oro rosa e diamanti indossato
Piaget, double ring in rose gold and diamonds worn

Platinum. This means that it has a natural white color, although slightly greyish. To be sold as a platinum ring should be composed of at least 90-95 per cent with this metal. Over time the color of the platinum does not tend to yellow, as for the white gold. But loses its glossy finish: some like it because that, by contrast, makes the diamond even more sparkling. Platinum, in any case, can be professionally polished to restore its original splendor, a process that is comparable in terms of cost of care for the white gold. In general, the color of white gold and platinum are similar, but not exactly the same thing: try to put a ring type on the same hand and you will see. White gold is more silvery, while platinum is more gray. The white diamonds beautifully complement them both, but beware: if your engagement ring is platinum, do not add a wedding band in white gold. Remain coordinated with the metal selected the first time is a better idea.

Anello in platino, morganite, diamanti
Platinum, morganite, diamond ring by Tomasz Donocik

The price. The biggest advantage of white gold than platinum is definitely the cost. Platinum is more expensive because it is more rare than gold. Every year there are only extracted 160 tons of platinum against 1,500 tons of gold. In addition, platinum is denser than the yellow metal: the same size ring will weigh significantly more platinum than gold (and precious metals are valued by weight). Broadly speaking, a gem in white gold costs about half an equivalent in platinum. So if you like the white and want to save, choose the gold.

Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso
Rocca jewelry store in Bologna, entrance

Which gold to choose. Most of the engagement rings in gold are a 14 or 18 carat , usually marked with the initials 14k or 18k . The letter k means carat. The 14k gold is only 58.3 percent pure. The one on the 18k is 75 percent pure. The greater the amount karat, the purer the gold, but it is also less resistant. The gold in its purest form, in fact, is at 24k, but that state is too soft to use for jewelry complex: it deforms. Must be alloyed with other metals in order to harden and become resistant. To reinforce the gold is usually used in alloys nickel, but sometimes causes allergy. Platinum, however, is a strong metal, stronger and heavier than gold. Among other things, the platinum is more pure and is considered hypoallergenic. You can, however, also find white gold without nickel.

Mariah Carey con l'anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco e diamanti. Photo: Koto Bolofo
Mariah Carey with the high jewelry ring in white gold and diamonds by Chopard. Photo: Koto Bolofo

Symbols. Gold historically indicates wealth, wisdom, and divine power. Remember the golden rules of the Bible? Or, the golden age or the golden years, which signify good times. And the 50th wedding anniversary is said to be one of the golden wedding. Gold is also considered by many as the traditional metal for wedding rings and engagement rings. Since it does not oxidize over time, helps to symbolize the pair of eternal harmony. Yet now it is platinum that seems to be the new symbol of wealth and prestige. Think of the “platinum credit card” which often has better benefits and privileges that the “credit card of gold.”  The choice is yours.

Anello con diamante a cuore indossato
Worn heart diamond ring

All about amethyst

The stone of February is the amethyst. But this gem also it like in the other 11 months of the year. Discover the qualities of the amethyst in this article ♦
Has always been considered a sort of talisman: Sumerians and Babylonians and Egyptians wore amulets made with amethyst for protection, and for the ancient Chinese was a material with which to store spices, healing balms and ointments. In nature this variety of quartz is found inside of stony masses and quarries, geodes, crystals containing groupings. One of the most famous is the one discovered in Brazil in the area of ​​Rio Grande Sol, 30 meters long and 15 meters completely covered with amethyst crystals width, so large that it must be dug in the ground. Amethyst is also the stone of February.

Anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri
Isabelle Langlois, anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri

The color range. It is truly remarkable, ranging from light pink to deep purple with many intermediate shades, as the example lavender or lilac, christened Rose de France, or the darkest shade almost bluish shades from red or pink typical of the stones from Russia , whose mines are now exhausted. Then there are amethysts Uruguay and Arizona with a deep blue-purple, the Zambian light purple. All owe their color to iron impurities. Some are two-tone, gold and purple, are called ametryne, and consist of quartz citrine and amethyst. Others, are green and are baptized prisiolite.

Orecchini con ametista e diamanti
Orecchini con ametista e diamanti by Michele della Valle

Origin. There are many mineral sources, practically in almost all over the world, but the most important producers are Brazil, Uruguay, Madagascar and Zambia. A good quality stones are also found in the United States, South Korea and Austria.

Anello Sissi con agata intagliata e ametista
Anello Sissi di Sanalitro con agata intagliata e ametista

Rating. Until the 18th century it was considered a precious gem as much as a diamond, a sapphire, an emerald or a ruby. The most valuable specimens came from the Ural Mountains of Russia, but the discovery of large deposits in Brazil and other countries has largely decreased the price. Currently the main evaluation criterion is the color: the more intense and more uniform the quality. Attention to the nuances, must be neither brown nor gray.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli

Purity. It is a gem of type II, so it can have slight inclusions visible to the naked eye but if its dark color hides, it becomes more difficult in the pink variety, lavender or green. It is often found in large, it can be up to 20 carats, and is almost always natural because the heat treatment and thus the cost of such a convenient stone does not make sense.

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista
Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista

Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014
Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014

Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane
Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane

How narrows or widens a ring

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

Anello da allargare
Ring to enlarge

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

Anello da stringere
Ring to tighten

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere
Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita
Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

How to wear the choker

The chocker, a jewel that has come back into fashion in recent years. That’s when to wear it ♦

The chocker, also called collier de chien, gargantilla or girocollo, is back. Because lights up the face, hides flaws and especially dress up. It knows well Nicole Kidman, seen at the Music Awards with a model in platinum and big diamonds by Fred Leighton. And so did an icon of youth and beauty like Princess Diana, who often wore chockers, even in official photos: three, six, eight threads of pearls, closed by precious stones’s clasps surrounded by diamonds.

La principessa Diana con girocollo di perle con zaffiro blu
Princess Diana with blue sapphire pearl choker

In large and different sizes Chanel new version pearls, strictly false as bubbles in molten glass or metallic. And also others fashion’s big names has used chockers on the catwalk: those of Roberto Cavalli are in panther style, Alexander McQueen, on the other hand, focuses on flowers, but made of steel, while the ones by Maison Martin Margiela would fit on Star Wars soldiers. In the world of jewelry they have with big mesh encrusted with crystals or with all types of colorful chains. So, any style is fine as long as dresses the neck. Also because after a certain age it is almost mandatory not to attention to wrinkles with a normal necklace. Then you might as well act in advance.

Katy Perry con choker di diamanti brown
Katy Perry with brown diamond choker

When to wear it. There is no rule establishing when to wear a crew neck. In short, any style is fine as long as it decorates the neck. But there are rules that advise when not to wear a crew neck. For example, when the neck is not your strong point: if you have a short, thick, not slender neck or a double chin, this kind of necklace may make your look worse. On the contrary, a high choker can be used to hide wrinkles after a certain age. But pay attention to the model: a shape that is too small could cause the opposite effect.

Kim Kardashian con un girocollo firmato Lorraine Schwartz
Kim Kardashian with a choker by Lorraine Schwartz

How to choose a choker. The collier de chien is a challenging jewel: impossible not to notice. This is why the choice of a choker must be carefully considered. First of all: do you have a fairly thin and slender neck? If the answer is yes then the choker is for you. But be careful not to overdo it: a choker made of one or many strands of pearls, in Princess Diana style, is suitable for a rather elegant dress. Chains and groumettes are associated with sportswear or very pop and, in any case, they are not recommended for women over 40 (personal opinion, mind you). In general, a large, very eye-catching choker should not be worn together with other equally important jewels, as big earrings or cocktail rings.

 

Collana della demi-parure di Scavia composta da girocollo e orecchini con rubini birmani (36 carati), smeraldi colombiani (45 ct) e zaffiri (64 ct)
Scavia demi-parure necklace composed of choker and earrings with Burmese rubies (36 carats), Colombian emeralds (45 ct) and sapphires (64 ct)
Collana Butterflies, oro rosa, diamanti, pietre di colore come ametista, peridoto, spinello
Bulgari, Butterflies choker necklace, rose gold, diamonds, colored stones such as amethyst, peridot, spinel
Girocollo Piaget per Jessica Chastain
Piaget choker for Jessica Chastain
Collana girocollo con diamanti e perle
Yoko London, diamond and pearl choker necklace
Illario, girocollo in oro, madreperla e diamanti
Illario, necklace in gold, mother of pearl and diamonds
Collana girocollo con peridoti e iolite
Marina J, choker necklace with peridots and iolite
Girocollo Glycines di Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Oro, tormalina intagliata, opale intagliato, rubini, granato
Glycines choker by Philippe Wolfers, Art Nouveau. Gold, carved tourmaline, carved opal, rubies, garnet
Dita Von Teese con girocollo di Pasquale Bruni
Dita Von Teese with crew neck by Pasquale Bruni
Girocollo in diamanti in oro bianco, formato da corolle di fiori a scalare con incastonati diamanti taglio brillante di 31,36 carati
Diamond necklace in white gold, made up of graduated flower corollas set with brilliant-cut diamonds of 31.36 carats
Girocollo con diamanti
Samer Halimeh, diamond choker
Girocollo con diamanti e rubini
Zsa Zsa Gabor, with a necklace with diamonds and rubies

Sabyasachi, the maharaja of jewels

Tomorrow’s jewelery of India is the same as yesterday’s India: the opulent jewelry by Sabyasachi ♦ ︎

“Ethnic wear for the global nomad”. Wear robe-related clothes in an increasingly global and moving world. Prophet of this wisdom is Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Indian fashion designer, of Kolkata. His collections of clothes give that opulence that is admired in old prints or vintage photographs: embroidered, baroque, rich fabrics. But it would be wrong to consider it as a simple stylist. He is, instead, a man of multiple interests as well as a designer. From food to culture, from movie (Bollywood) to literature: Sabyasachi is a sort of Renaissance character in Indian interpretation.
In 2008, the designer widened his work on jewelery.

Bracciale in oro con gemme e diamanti
Mangrove bracelet in gold with gems and diamonds

An example of his jewelery is the Mangrove bracelet, made in homage to the great Indian artisan tradition and to the various species of endangered trees found along the Ganges and in the mangroves of the Sundarbans. The bracelet has hand-engraved details and is made of 18k gold with multi-colored gemstones and diamonds. The back is studded with EF VVS VS graded diamonds.

Collana in oro con pietre dure
Gold necklace with semiprecious stones

But not fashion-jewelry, that is, jewelery produced in series, made with cheap materials and with embossed the brand. The collections of Sabyasachi are inspired by deep and precious India, rich in stones like diamonds and emeralds, but cut in a traditional way or, better, not cut with classic faceted shapes. Polki diamonds, like those used by the maharajas of a time, sewn on robes of nobles during the Moghul dynasty. In short, just look at these images (spread on Instagram) to make a dip in the depths of India’s most traditional. “Growing up, I spent hours digging in my mother’s and grandmother’s jewelery lockers. Their taste was simply delicious. Perhaps, that’s why I’m disappointed: where did all this art go?” So he thought about him to revive the tradition.

Collana della collezioe Tropic of Caluctta
Necklace from the Tropic of Calcutta collection
Collana con smeraldo intagliato, rubini, diamanti
Necklace with carved emerald, rubies, diamonds
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Gold and diamond earrings
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, opali
Earrings in 18k gold, diamonds, opals
Modella con abito, accessori e gioielli Sabyasachi
Model wearing Sabyasachi dress, accessories and jewelry

Adjustable necklaces

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Almost always long and thin, sometimes very precious, necklaces of this type are back in fashion. But, in reality, has it ever been forgotten? In any case, it is good news for those who love sexy jewelry, as its shape highlights the contour of the body with a drape delicately resting on the décolleté. Adjustable necklaces have an obvious advantage: they adapt to the surface and size of the wearer’s body. Not only. An adjustable necklace also changes shape and can be worn in different ways depending on the clothing and circumstance.

Also read: how to choose the necklace

Collana Aria indossata
Nanis, Aria adjustable necklace worn

Of course, it depends on how it is worn because originally they were nothing more than a long thread of gold or pearls, more or less thick and broad, without any closure, to be turned several times around the neck, or to be knotted simply or with an adjustable clip to be placed at a strategic point. Like the vintage Cartier jewel, dated 1965, made with flat round links and a drop-shaped clasp, or the long double string of Chanel eighties beads.

Collana con pendente cone inserto in pelle
Necklace with pendant with leather insert by 12PM

You need to be careful when choosing the adjustable necklace. At the time of purchase it is best to check whether the mechanism that allows you to vary the length of the necklace is really efficient and, above all, does not appear to be too delicate: it would be disappointing to have to take the necklace to the jeweler to have the locking system repaired.
Collana indossata Magnetica System
Extendable Magnetica System necklace worn by Breil

Another important aspect is to use the adjustable necklace appropriately. A jewel of this type is interesting precisely because it adapts to the body and dress, but before choosing the length of the necklace, do several tests in front of the mirror, to establish what the right size really is: after all, you have chosen a jewel of this type precisely because of this.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Jacob & Co diamond and emerald necklace, worn

The models of the past perfectly coexist next to the new millennium versions with revisited iconic logos and motifs, while one of the most luxurious places belongs to Bulgari with its famous snake in diamonds, turquoise emeralds, presented at the 2012 Biennale of Antiquarians. , shows how this type of necklace has never completely disappeared, but certainly now, especially overseas, it is a must have. Here is a selection of the most interesting pieces.

Collana in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti e smeraldi
Antonini, white and yellow gold necklace with diamonds and emeralds
Collana della collezione Zyp
Tirisi, necklace from the Zyp collection
Cartier, collier a forma di coccodrillo in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Cartier, crocodile-shaped necklace in white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Marble Marquetry con diamanti e zaffiri
Harry Winston, Marble Marquetry necklace with diamonds and sapphires
Salvini, collana regolabile della collezione Daphne
Salvini, adjustable necklace from the Daphne collection
Autore, Best in Pearls con una collana di perle dei Mari del Sud
Autore,Best in Pearls with a necklace of South Sea pearls
Pendente con smeraldo colombiano del peso di circa 16 ct montato su collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante del peso totale di circa 6,10 carati. Lunghezza collana 44 cm (chiusura regolabile)
Pendant with Colombian emerald weighing approximately 16 ct mounted on an 18k white gold necklace with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.10 carats in total. Necklace length 44 cm (adjustable closure)

Chains and gourmettes

Can you distinguish between different types of chains? Not all jewelry chains are created equal. Here’s how to choose a chain.

The most used chain for bracelets is the gourmette. But do you know what a gourmette is? Here’s what you need to know about one of the most used jewelry chains.

There is chain and chain: in love it is a feared and desired bond, in jewelry one of the most used forms for bracelets and necklaces. But beware: they are not all the same. One of the most used forms is the gourmette: for example, Pomellato, Roberto Coin and many others brands dedicated collections to this type of chain, but all jewelers have chains of this type in their catalog. The curb chain has an ancient origin. The most ancient example ever discovered of gourmette dates back to 2500 BC and was made with a technique called fox tail, which is still very current.

Gourmette e1565356458849
Gourmette or grumetta braided oval links often diamond-cut so as to lay them flat along the surface

But what is the characteristic of a gourmette? Compared to a normal chain, changes a little the shape. For gourmette, in fact, we mean a jewelery chain that has flattened rings with smooth sides. In some cases the surfaces can also be different: for example, on one side of the chain the metal can be shiny and smooth, on the other side more rough and opaque. But there is no precise rule.

Bracciale e anello in oro bianco e diamanti
Roberto Coin, bracelet and ring in white gold and diamonds

Often the chains have a small tag engraved with a name, usually that of the person wearing the jewel. In other cases, instead, a date is engraved, for example, that of birth. But the tag is not necessary for a wide chain bracelet or necklace. The gourmettes are often in silver or white gold. The most conspicuous yellow gold is less used (but much appreciated by rappers, for example). The curb chain is mainly used to make bracelets. But for some time there have been those who have decided that it can be worn very well as a necklace: this was also chosen in this case by many artists of the musical world.

Madonna con grande catena al collo
Madonna with large chain around her neck

How to choose a chain

Chains are not all the same. And not just because of their size or the style with which the different rings are made. Before buying a chain, pay attention to the quality of the jewel. The shirt must be soft, pleasant to wear. It must be as flexible as possible, without joints that get stuck if they need to be bent. Above all, a chain must not have protruding points that can attach to your dress (or perhaps to that of others). Some chains are designed to be combined with pendants: an idea that must also be comfortable once the bracelet or necklace is worn.

Gioielli a forma di catena della linea Fraleoni Rainbow
Chain-shaped jewelery from the Fraleoni Rainbow line

How to clean a chain?

Simple: like all the other jewels, that is with water, a couple of drops of liquid soap and a soft bristle toothbrush. Leave to soak in a bowl for about ten minutes and then rub with the toothbrush, then rinse. Be careful, however, that the chain is not plated or gilded with a galvanic bath. In this case there is a risk of damaging the surface: better to rinse the jewel without the risk of scratching it.

Gourmette di Cartier in or giallo
Gourmette by Cartier in yellow gold
Kim Kardashian con maxi catena
Kim Kardashian with maxi gourmette chain
Gourmette di Pomellato
Gourmette by Pomellato
Lily Collins contagiata dalla maxi catena mania
Lily Collins with the maxi chain mania

The Silvio Ancora’s Class

Jewelry by Ancora Gioielli, made in his goldsmith workshop in Valenza ♦ ︎

Since 1989 Silvio Ancora (the name is pronounced with the accent on “a”) works in his laboratory in Valenza. Do you know him? Difficult if you are not in the industry, if you do not work for some great brand that has had the opportunity to work with him, if you have not commissioned a custom jewel. Because Silvio Ancora’s peculiarity is to work again as a time, with methods and skills that are part of tradition and are taught on the field.

Anello Dream con rubino, zaffiri e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Dream ring with ruby, sapphires and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

A fairly narrow field, in fact, because the jewels offered by the small Maison are of high-end, with the use of gold and precious stones or precious stones. The style is Italian, classic forms combined with some fancy flying, but without exceeding in extravagance. Here are some examples of his work.

Anello Petals con acquamarina e zaffiri blu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Petals ring with aquamarine and blue sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con quarzo, zaffiri e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with quartz, sapphires and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e zaffiro blu
White gold ring with pavé diamonds and blue sapphire
Anello in oro bianco, ametista, topazio, quarzo
Ring in white gold, amethyst, topaz, quartz
Orecchini in oro, tormaline, diamanti
Gold earrings, tourmalines, diamonds

Marcello Bread literally

Marcello Pane, the ancient Neapolitan tradition in modern key with the Letters collection ♦︎

The ancient tradition of Neapolitan jewelery also goes through the Marcello Pane brand. The company boasts an ancient birth in 1899. Today the company is led by Ettore and Marcello Pane, descendants of the founder of the small house. Meanwhile, it has moved from the crafts to the industrial scale: the jewels of the Marcello Pane collections are made in the goldsmith’s center of Caserta, near Naples. This shift from craft to one with more modern machining means has allowed to reduce costs.

Anello con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential
Anello con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential

The Marcello Pane collections follow two roads: the most traditional one with gold jewelry, and the most affordable price with silver, along with pearls, while the diamonds alternate with the crystals. One of the most popular collections, for example, is one that uses the most alpha alphabet letters in the most classic ways to make names or simply initials. The Essential and Itaca collections use silver with a particular sandblasted finish that enhances the surface of the jewels, with or without gold plating.

Bracciale in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Orecchini della collezione Essential
Orecchini della collezione Essential
Orecchini in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Orecchini in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale rigido in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Bracciale rigido in argento con elementi sabbiati della collezione Itaca
Girocollo Ellisse
Girocollo Ellisse
Collana con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential
Collana con cuore stilizzato, collezione Essential

Neha Dani, rhodium, titanium and fireworks

The precious jewels with flowers and leaves of the Indian designer Neha Dani. Also with Titanium Collection ♦

From her office in New Delhi to the boutiques of Europe and the US: Neha Dani is a designer (but perhaps it would be better to call an artist of jewelry), which has succeeded in becoming an international signature. Take a look at the jewels on this page and you’ll understand why. Someone wrinkles the nose to the use of rhodium to give particular nuances to the metal, but in reality this is just a detail of what is the creative process of Neha Dani.

Anello Amishi ispirato alle fronde delle palme. I dettagli sono incisi nella cera dall'artista, aggiungendo e scolpendo il materiale fino a ottenere la forma finale perfetta dell'anello
Amishi ring inspired by palm fronds. Details are etched into the wax by the artist, adding and sculpting material until the perfect final shape of the ring is achieved

The jewels created are unique pieces which exalt the precious stones used around the 18-carat gold structure. Although the shapes may appear abstract, the themes of the natural world and human emotions are present in each piece: dried leaves and petals of flowers are among those that occur most often in the creations of Indian designers. The contours of necklaces or rings are flexed, as if they were bent by the wind: a choice that gives lightness to even the most elaborate jewels. Dani is a member of Gemological of England and has a diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. The price of her jewelry starts at about $ 18,000.

Bracciale Bonita in oro 18 carati con rodio blu, diamanti e zaffiri blu
Bonita bracelet in 18k gold with blue rhodium, diamonds and blue sapphires
Orecchini Talia con zaffiri blu e diamanti
Talia earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds
Orecchini Erith in oro rosa, con diamanti brown di diverse sfumature
Erith earrings in rose gold, with brown diamonds of different shades
Anello Nerida in oro bianco e diamanti, con al centro un diamante taglio rosa di 4,21 carati
Nerida ring in white gold and diamonds, with a 4.21 carat rose-cut diamond in the centre
Orecchini con diamanti e oro brunito
Earrings with diamonds and burnished gold
Anello Myra in oro rodiato verde, diamanti e tsavorite
Myra ring in green rhodium-plated gold, diamonds and tsavorite
Neha Dani
Neha Dani

The meaning of animal-shaped jewelry

Animal-shaped jewelery has always been a recurring motif in jewellery. And they also have hidden meanings, that’s what they are.

Animals have always been an inspiring motif in jewelry. Not only that: each animal also offers a hidden or symbolic meaning. In short, anyone who wears a jewel in the shape of an animal communicates something. The Flamingo brooch of Cartier that belonged to the Duchess of Windsor has made history, like the panther in all its versions. The secreted turtles and the embroidered wings of Buccellati birds are objects of art. While the cartoon-style animals of Van Cleef & Arpels designed in 1954 for a young audience and revived half a century later, they soon became classics, so much so that they induced Grace of Monaco, Jacqueline Onassis and the Parisian upper class bourgeoisie to collect them.

Anello animalier di Leo Pizzo
Ring from the animalier line by Leo Pizzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Even the gold fish with the flexible tail and the ruby ​​eyes of Jean Schlumberger is a milestone in jewelry, which for Tiffany has designed beautiful shells. And what about the snake of Bulgari? Since 1977 it is one of the most sold subjects of the brand. And again lions, frogs, bears, caterpillars, crabs and chameleons: the animal theme has always inspired the great jewelers (Vhernier, de Grisogono, Leo Pizzo, Chantecler always include them in their collections) and wins over customers.

For example, Diana Vreeland who fashioned it (she was the legendary editor of Harper’s Bazaar) required her editors to insert a snake into the articles and she herself wore jewels with this shape. But one of his favorites was the gold zebra bracelet, black and white enamel and diamonds, one of David Webb’s masterpieces, the quintessence of American jewelry. And there are many designers who are infected by this theme (as you can see from this gallery), even the most avant-garde ones. Here is a selection of the most creative, to keep an eye on.

The meaning of animal-shaped jewelry

Bee. These insects are associated with industriousness, organizational capacity, and in some way rationality. Bees are a good example to follow. But in the past, bees were also a sign of knowledge, wisdom and, in the Middle Ages, bees were a symbol of purity and even the spiritual world.

Delfina Delettrez: anello Ape in oro giallo 9 carati e smalto giallo e nero con una perla d'acqua dolce
Delfina Delettrez: Ape ring in 9k yellow gold and yellow and black enamel with a freshwater pearl

Eagle. A bird that is a symbol of courage and pride. It is no coincidence that the eagle has been widely used in heraldry and has become part of the coats of arms of many states, even in the two-headed version. Strength, speed, audacity: the eagle has retained this symbolism which comes directly from ancient Greek mythology.

Il bracciale spirato al tema dell’aquila è realizzato in oro, tasvorite, diamanti bianchi, gialli e brown, smeraldi (oltre 18 carati)
Youra Jewelry: the bracelet inspired by the eagle theme is made of gold, tasvorite, white, yellow and brown diamonds, emeralds (over 18 carats)

Dog. Loyalty, dedication, friendship: the dog does not betray and keeps its love for its master-partner intact over the years. Do we need to add anything else?

Van Cleef & Arpels, spilla cane
Van Cleef & Arpels, dog brooch

Snail. It is highly appreciated in the jewelry world for its spiral shell shape. True, the snail is slow. Precisely for this reason it has also become the symbol of those who do not want to adapt to the frenetic everyday routine. Furthermore, they also symbolize the ability to be self-sufficient: they always carry their home with them.

Ciondolo a forma di lumaca in oro bianco e alessandrite
Snail-shaped pendant in white gold and alexandrite

Swan. Elegant, but also pure. The swan has been associated with an innocent and delicate femininity. But also sensual, as evidenced by the myth of Leda seduced by Jupiter in the form of a swan. And, be careful: when swans get angry they can become dangerous.

Collezione Animal World, il Cigno nero
Animal World collection, the Black Swan by Master Exclusive Jewellery

Dolphin. Intelligent and friendly animals, they are associated with the sea, with freedom. Not only that: symbolically, dolphins are also indicated as the heirs, at least according to the history of France before the Revolution of the late eighteenth century.

Ciondolo delfino in oro 14 carati
Dolphin pendant in 14k gold

Butterfly. One of the most used models in jewelry: light, beautiful and (perhaps) elusive. A bit like how many women describe themselves, even if the butterfly also retains the idea of fleetingness and delicacy. Many jewelry designers have tried their hand at this symbol of sophistication.

Butterfly Collection, versione con piccoli diamanti e oro
Sicis, Butterfly Collection, version with small diamonds and gold

Rooster. If you have a rooster-shaped jewel it means that you like the strong courage of the male who imposes his strength and personality in the midst of the female world. But it may simply be its colorful feathers that make you appreciate this animal.

Roberto Coin, anello per l'anno del Gallo
Roberto Coin, ring for the year of the rooster

Cat. He is adored at home and many women who love their cat would like to have him always on their lap purring. It is inevitable that this astute, noble, independent and adorable pet was among the most represented in jewelry.

Spilla di Fabergé con diamanti, zaffiri rosa e tormalina
Fabergé cat-shaped brooch with diamonds, pink sapphires and tourmaline

Owl or owl. This bird in ancient Greece was the symbol of the goddess Minerva. He is considered a symbol of wisdom and cunning, while his ability to see in the dark has associated him with the concept of foresight: a quality that, unfortunately, is very rare in common life.

Alta orologeria: bracciale Gufo in oro bianco etico 18 carati, con diamanti taglio brillante e trapezio, zaffiri multicolori taglio trapezio
Fine watchmaking: Owl bracelet in 18k ethical white gold, with brilliant-cut and trapezoid-cut diamonds, multi-coloured trapezoid-cut sapphires by Chopard

Lion. Everyone knows the symbolism linked to the lion: pride, nobility, but also strength and the desire to impose oneself on others. A jewel in the shape of a lion, of course, can also indicate belonging to the zodiac sign that falls in mid-summer.

José Maria Goñi, spilla a forma di leone in oro, smeraldi, diamanti bianchi, gialli e champagne. Copyright: gioiellis.com
José Maria Goñi, lion-shaped brooch in gold, emeralds, white, yellow and champagne diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Panther. One of the classics of jewelry, which has become a motif that distinguishes Cartier with its Panthère line. Cunning, strength, sensuality and the ability to surprise are the characteristics associated with this feline. In ancient times the panther was considered an almost perfect animal and, surprisingly, with an intense scent.

Anello in oro bianco, con 365 diamanti taglio brillante, 255 carati, smeraldi, onice. Prezzo: 60.000 euro
Cartier, Panthere ring in white gold, with 365 brilliant-cut diamonds, 255 carats, emeralds, onyx

Peacock. It is an exotic animal, more widespread in Asia and, in its male version, the one with the large tail of colored feathers, associated with the concept of regal beauty. In Hinduism, the Indian peacock is the mount of the god of war, Kartikeya, and the warrior goddess Kaumari, and is also depicted around the goddess Santoshi.

Spilla piuma di pavone in titanio, con spinelli, giada bianca, smeraldi, diamanti.
Peacock feather brooch in titanium, with spinels, white jade, emeralds, diamonds by Osi Vitoria. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Scarab. This small insect was favored and venerated by the ancient Egyptians, who credited it with magical virtues. Now it is no longer worshiped, but on the other hand it is considered a lucky charm.

Aurélie Bidermann. orecchini Scarabeo in oro giallo 18 carati, rubini, zaffiri, diamanti bianchi, ametiste e tzavoriti
Aurélie Bidermann. Scarabeo earrings in 18k yellow gold, rubies, sapphires, white diamonds, amethysts and tsavorites

Monkey. The animal most similar to the human race, at least in one aspect: monkeys are vain as well as mischievous. A jewel that has the appearance of a monkey plays precisely on these two aspects.

Anello Scimmia, oro, tsavoriti granati, zaffiri arancioni, ametiste e diamanti
Carrera Y Carrera, Monkey ring, gold, garnet tsavorites, orange sapphires, amethysts and diamonds

Snake. Snake-shaped jewels are among the most famous of high jewellery. The association of this animal with the concept of sin is inevitable, according to the biblical story. But not only that: the snake is also cunning and, when used in jewellery, often takes the shape of a spiral, also a symbol of spirituality and knowledge.

Il celebre bracciale serpente, in versione orologio
Bulgari, the famous snake bracelet, in a watch version