smeraldo

Leonori’s new life

Leonori’s jewelry store, an Italian Maison that is on par with the big ♦︎

Between Forlì and Ascoli Piceno, a stone’s throw from the beaches of the Adriatic Riviera, Leonori manages to offer high-level jewellery. Leonori Gioielli is a Maison founded by Agostino Leonori in 1962: a master jeweler who studied at the Goldsmith School of Valenza, the cradle of Italian fine jewellery, and then worked for over 20 years in companies in the sector. Having learned the secrets of the trade, he returned to his native Forlì where he opened a small jewelery shop, which grew over time.

Anello della collezione Anime, in oro rosa e smalto bianco
Ring from the Anime collection, in rose gold and white enamel

2024 marked a new step forward, with a new headquarters-showroom inside the former Episcopal Seminary of Ascoli Piceno, in the Marche region: a building dating back to 1400, which belonged to the curia until the middle of the last century. The showroom is located near the city’s historic cathedral. The building that houses Leonori’s jewels has been restored with full respect for the original architecture and symbolizes the new direction of the Maison through a space of historical and artistic value.
Anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldo
High jewelry ring in white gold, diamonds and emerald

After the founder started it in the 1960s, the company’s history continued with his children Cesare, Lucio and Daniela, who expanded the business and attracted the attention of customers in Italy and abroad. Cesare, in particular, a few years later established relationships throughout the world to import diamonds from Tel Aviv, emeralds from Colombia, rubies from Burma and sapphires from Ceylon. An excellence that focuses heavily on the foreign market (for example, with its presence at the International Jewelery London), thanks to its jewels that stand on par with those of the great Maisons. Today Leonori is led by the third generation of the family, represented by the creative director Eleonora Boccalatte, who has renewed the collections and expanded the company’s range of action by also focusing on Asian markets, from Singapore to China.
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Ring in rose gold and diamonds

Anello a due dita in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Two-finger ring in rose gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana in oro rosa
Rose gold necklace
Anello doppio con diamanti e zaffiri gialli
Double ring with diamonds and yellow sapphires

How to recognize the emeralds

The emerald is the stone linked to the month of May. It is one of the most precious stones, yet not everyone knows it thoroughly. Here are the essential things to know about the emerald ♦

How to recognize an emerald? It is easy to understand the value and quality? The answer is no. Only a survey conducted by an expert (or disinterested unpaid) can provide a serious judgment. But knowing the basics can help you figure out if you should pay for an expert opinion, and it helps to have an idea about the stone that interests you.

Anello in oro giallo con smeraldi
John Rubel, ring with white gold, emerald, sapphires and diamonds

Four C.  Emeralds, like diamonds, are evaluated based on four parameters (The Four C): color, clarity (clarity), cut (cut) and carat. Unlike diamonds, however, for the color of emeralds is the most outstanding feature. If you think it is also the only gem that gives a name to a color: emerald green.

Color. In the emerald hue and saturation of the color can vary significantly. A deep shade is most appreciated. Hence, the value is linked to the gradient of color: the more intense, the more sought after.

Anello in oro rosa con smeraldo
Vittoria d’Aste-Surcouf, rose gold ring with emerald

Sharpness. As for diamonds, in an emerald can be no inclusions or blemishes. Sometimes these imperfections are invisible to the naked eye : you have to use powerful lenses and watch against the stone. Among other things, these tiny tracks constitute a kind of ” fingerprint “. Obviously, inclusions, bubbles or scratches that internal influence the value of the stone.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels, diamanti e smeraldo
Ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, diamonds and emerald with the classic emerald cut

Cutting. The word cut (cut) refers to the way in which it was given shape in an emerald to optimize its beauty. A great emerald can be improved only with the experience of a good cutter. Many have a particular cut emeralds, roughly rectangular in shape that is called, in fact, the emerald cut.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati
The duPont Emerald, ring with a 9.11 carat Colombian emerald

Carat. It is a measure of the weight of an emerald. Of course, the larger an emerald, the higher its carat weight, and often the cost. However, it is not the main feature : better a smaller stone, but transparent and intense color that a large but full of imperfections.

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracelet featuring a magnificent 71.88 carat octagonal cabochon Zambian emerald and 41.06 carats of round brilliant-cut colorless diamonds set in platinum

Provenance. The best emeralds are those of Colombia. Other mines are found in Zambia, Africa. Today about 40-50% of the emeralds mined come from Zambia, where these gems were formed 500 million years ago. Emeralds were discovered in the African country in the late 1970s and the first official auction by the Zambian government took place in 1982. But in those years the classification of emeralds was not like it is today. The lower grades weren’t in high demand and didn’t have a great rating. But now groups like Gemfields and Grizzly, with their new technology, are able to propose and classify stones in a better way.

Anello con oro brunito e graffiato, con al centro uno smeraldo
Antonini, ring with black and scratched rhodium-plated gold, with an emerald in the centre

Beware of treatments. The stones are often treated to improve their appearance. One of these techniques is the so-called heat-treatment (ie through heat): it consists in heating the stone to improve its color and purity. The Deep Diffusion Treatment instead consists in spreading in the stone additives such as beryllium, whose purpose is to obtain colors totally different from the original ones, generally rare in nature. For example, the orange color for sapphires. These two treatments are recognized by professionals, and are specified on the certificate of the gemmology laboratory that examined the stone.

Bracciale di Bulgari con diamanti e smeraldi appartenuto a Liz Taylor
Bulgari bracelet with diamonds and emeralds that belonged to Liz Taylor

Origin. In Buddhism, the emerald is considered one of the seven treasures and equated with wisdom. The word emerald comes from the Latin smaragdus, which in turn derives from the Greek word σμάραγδος (smaragdos). But the Greek word derives from izmargad, a Semitic term, or maragata, a Sanskrit term (ancient language of India), which means green stone.

Anello con smeraldo e zaffiri
Ring with emerald and sapphires by Manuel Bouvier
Anello con diamanti e smeraldo
Ring with diamonds and emerald
Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati
The large emerald weighing 6,225 carats
Smeraldo con piccole imperfezioni interne
Emerald with small internal imperfections

Umrao, scent of ancient India

The ancient charm of India of Rajasthan in the traditional jewelry of the Maison Umrao in Jaipur ♦ ︎

The millennial history of India, ancient traditions, legends, rituals, spirituality, folklore, craftsmanship, love for luxury … Put all this in an ancient brass vase together with fragrant incense. The result is Umrao, jeweler of Jaipur, Rajasthan, flag bearer of the tradition of the great Asian country.

Choker tradizionale con diamanti taglio polki
Traditional choker on 24k gold with polki cut diamonds

Its jewels, in addition to a particularly rich and elaborate appearance, are anchored in the Hindu tradition. For example, with jewels that follow the principle of Navaratna: nine stones on a single piece, usually a necklace. Navaratna stones are ruby, diamond, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, emerald, red coral, pearl, cat’s eye and hessonite: they represent the energies of nine astrological planets. In fact, each stone is considered to be linked to a planet in its alignment and corresponds to a particular chakra. It is a sacred combination recommended in Vedic astrology to promote financial prosperity, professional growth and good health.

In short, if you love traditional India and follow astrological influences, chakras, etc., these jewels are just for you, if you can afford it. By the way: in addition to precious stones, almost always with antique cuts like polki diamonds (used during the Mughal empire), Umrao’s jewels are in pure 24 carat gold, an other traditional choice.

Umrao Jewels was founded Shri Umrao Mal Shah, and now that in Jaipur no geverna plus the maharaja, children and grandchildren continue his work. In addition to the traditional Indian style, the Maison loves to create art pieces in Edwardian, Byzantine, Maghul, art dé and art nouveau styles, often with a fusion of fascinating styles.

Girocollo con rari smeraldi russi color pastello, oro, diamanti
Choker with rare pastel-colored Russian emeralds, gold, diamonds 
Orecchini in oro 24 carati, rubini, diamanti
24 carat gold earrings, rubies, diamonds
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Umrao, Navartna necklace
Collana tradizionale in oro 24 carati, con diamanti a taglio piatto
Traditional necklace in 24k gold, with flat cut diamonds
Tradizionale collana Sath Lada nello stile del Deccan popolare durante il periodo del Nizam Of Hyderabad. Tradizionalmente composta da sette file di perle graduate per dimensioni, infilate su in oro, diamanti non tagliati e pietre preziose
Traditional Sath Lada necklace in the Deccan style popular during the time of the Nizam Of Hyderabad. Traditionally composed of seven rows of pearls graduated in size, strung on gold, uncut diamonds and precious stones

Emerald success for Crieri

Green is in fashion: it is synonymous with environment, nature, hope. But also of emeralds which, in truth, have never gone out of fashion. As the story of Crieri can testify, a jewelry brand made in Valenza (Italy) which, among its finest collections, has one dedicated to the green stone par excellence. The Bogotà collection, as its name indicates, is dedicated to Colombian emeralds. Stones that, according to the company, were at the center of the first trip to the Colombian capital of the company founder, Alessandro Saracino, in 1996. And in the historic district, where Colombian emerald dealers meet every day to buy and sell gemme, in 2005 by Alessandro Saracino he opened the first office.

Anello con smeraldo di 6,5 carati e diamanti per 2,5 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 6.5 carats of emerald and 2.5 carats of diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The result is, in fact, the Bogotà collection, which turns on the lights on the transparencies, reflections and mysteries of the emerald (all the stones are certified by the gemmolgo Pio Visconti and the Swiss C. Dunaigre), mounted on white gold and surrounded by diamonds. A classic line, which brings together a series of classic high-end jewels, offered in a price range ranging from 5,000 to 300,000 euros.

Anello com smeraldo e diamanti taglio trilliant
Ring with emerald and trilliant cut diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo colombiano
Ring in white gold, diamonds, Colombian emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald from the Bogotà collection
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Collier in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Earrings in white gold, diamonds, emerald

How much is your stone worth?

How much are the stones in your jewels worth?

Raise your hand if you don’t have at least one jewel with colored gems and have never wondered how much that stone is really worth. Amethyst or ruby, emerald or citrine, sapphire or moonstone: there are not only diamonds. But how much are colored stones worth? How much is a ruby ​​worth? Or an emerald? Or, again, aquamarine? If you want to know how much the gem you have set on the ring is worth, or in a necklace, earrings or bracelet, read here. We try to explain in a simple way what are the characteristics that determine the value of a colored stone.

Filippo G&G, pietra ametista e di diverso tipo
Filippo G&G, gems of different types

Of course, there is immediately a fairly obvious aspect: in general, the value is determined by how rare a gem is. A ruby, always in principle, has a higher value than a simple citrine quartz. But this is only a starting point. In fact, it is not said that in reality this is the case. Let’s see, instead, what are the criteria that guide the evaluation of a precious or semi-precious stone.

Anelli con pietra di colore by Bulgari
Bulgari gemstone rings

The starting point is that the value of a colored stone depends on several factors, not just one. Hence, the estimated price doesn’t just depend on the weight and volume of a stone. So, as we said, it is not even the type of stone that determines its absolute value. If you have a ring with a sapphire, it is likely to have a value greater than that of a moonstone. Probable, but certainly not. For example, diamonds are also used in industry, since they are the hardest material that exists. And, of course, the diamonds used to cut ceramic tiles are not of the same quality as those found in jewelry. This is to make it clear that the same type of mineral can have very different qualities.

Orecchini in oro, diamanti, gemme colorate
Earrings in gold, diamonds, colored gems

The 4C
As with diamonds, precious colored and semi-precious stones are also valued for the classic 4C: color, clarity, cut (in English cut) and carat weight (which also determines the size). But among these 4C the first is the most important: the color. Of course, let’s talk about colored stones.

Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs
Paul Wild, gems for Liaison de Couleurs

Color
For precious (emerald, ruby ​​and sapphire) or semi-precious (all others) colored stones, the color is assessed with three different criteria: hue (name of color), tone (darkness and brightness) and saturation (vividness) . The relationship between hue, tone and saturation is the most important aspect for evaluating a colored stone. This is why emeralds (or rubies, sapphires, etc.) are not all the same. In general, when a gem has a more saturated color it will also be darker. To obtain a more saturated color, the stones are often subjected to particular processes: for example, they are subjected to intense heat, radiation, or treated with chemicals (not harmful). Natural stones, untreated, have a higher value, obviously with the same appearance and weight.
But if you want to observe what the exact color of your stone is, pay attention to the light source: a light bulb that illuminates with yellow hue, for example, can make your stone appear in a different shade than the natural one.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati
The duPont Emerald, ring with a 9.11-carat Colombian emerald

Clarity
Usually the stones, some in particular such as emerald, are not as clear as a glass crystal. Clarity measures the degree of internal or surface transparency. Inside the stones there may be inclusions, that is, small imperfections, traces of other minerals that can determine their value. Usually, the fewer inclusions there are, the more the gem has value. But, be careful: if they offer you an absolutely clear emerald, look at it with suspicion. It could be synthetic. In contrast, amethysts are generally free of inclusions. Other stones, on the other hand, are appreciated precisely for their inclusions: for example, the cat’s eye. Or the star sapphire, which has that particular reflection precisely because it has a rather rare inclusion.

Zaffiri e rubino
Blue, pink, yellow and ruby sapphires

Carats (weight)
Size matters. Of course, the color is important, but if the gem is tiny … The weight of the colored stones is indicated in carats. Yes, but what is it equivalent to? Quickly said: a carat is about a fifth of an gram. A gem with higher carats will generally cost more than another smaller, if the quality is equivalent. But the proportion is very different: amethysts are also found in relevant sizes, even over 100 carats and, therefore, the difference between different sizes and weight is relative. Large rubies, on the other hand, are very rare: in proportion, their value with respect to weight will increase more than that of amethyst.

Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina taglio ovale e diamanti
Paolo Costagli, white gold ring with an oval cut aquamarine and diamonds

Cutting
It is not easy for anyone who is not a gemologist to judge whether the cutting of a stone is correct. But you have to know that in evaluating a gem it also matters how it was cut. The light, in fact, will be better reflected and will make a well cut stone brighter. Proportions, symmetry and polishing are the main aspects. On the price of a gem, however, its shape has less influence, if it is one of the classic cuts used, such as brilliant, emerald, shuttles, etc. A good cut can enhance the nuances of a colored gem. An imperfect cut can, on the contrary, depress its beauty. And do not think that the cut is a simple operation performed automatically: each stone is different from the other and a cut that is good for one may not be suitable for a similar one, but not the same.

Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston.
Burmese Ruby Cushion Ring by Harry Winston

The country of origin
Last thing to consider: the stone passport matters. There are mines that have a better reputation and average quality than others. And, therefore, in evaluating the stones it is also important to know what the origin is. Burmese rubies are more valuable. The emeralds of Colombia are the most requested, followed by those of Zambia. The now unavailable blue sapphires of Kashmir are the most sought after.

Bracciale con ametista, rubini birmani e diamanti su argento e oro
Bracelet with amethyst, Burmese rubies and diamonds on silver and gold
Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co
29.96 Carat StarBrite Cut Citrine by John Dyer & Co
Anello della collezione Aristocrat, in oro bianco e diamanti, alessandrite taglio brillante
Ring from the Aristocrat collection, in white gold and diamonds, brilliant cut alexandrite
Orecchini in oro bianco, topazio e diamanti
Tamara Comolli, earrings in white gold, topaz and diamonds
Anello con zaffiro star di Ceylon su ceramica orange e grigia
Ring with Ceylon star sapphire on orange and gray ceramic
Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti
Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring

A 10-carat Muzo emerald for Tiffany

A green gem can tempt not only a woman, but also a jewelry brand like Tiffany & Co. The American Maison has purchased a precious stone out of the ordinary: it is an emerald weighing over 10 carats. The gemstone was mined from the Muzo Emerald Mines in Colombia, located about 100 kilometers northwest of Bogotá, where the finest stones of this type are mined. Now the stone also has a name: Tiffany Muzo Emerald. The stone has an intense green color and symbolizes Tiffany’s desire to use extraordinary gems.

Tiffany Muzo Emerald
Tiffany Muzo Emerald

As the world authority on rare stones, we are thrilled to announce our recent purchase of the Tiffany Muzo Emerald. Weighing more than 10 carats, this extraordinary gem continues Tiffany’s long tradition of sourcing the finest stones Mother Nature has to offer.
Victoria Wirth Reynolds, Chief Gemologist of Tiffany & Co

Lo smeraldo ha un taglio rettangolare ed è stato estratto dallo storico pozzo minerario di Puerto Arturo nel dicembre 2019
The emerald has a rectangular cut and was mined from the historic Puerto Arturo mining shaft in December 2019

According to the Maison, it is the most precious emerald ever extracted from the Muzo mines. It is rectangular cut and was mined from the historic Puerto Arturo mine shaft in December 2019. A rare emerald due to its extraordinarily high clarity, offering a superior level of clarity and showcasing its exceptional colour. The gem has no fissures (which are quite frequent in emeralds) and is practically devoid of inclusions, except for very few observed under the microscope, in line with those found in Colombian emeralds from the Muzo mine. It also exhibits the perfectly saturated green color for which Muzo emeralds are so renowned and prized. The Tiffany Muzo Emerald will make its debut with the fall launch of the Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue collection.

How to choose a sapphire ring

How and why to choose a sapphire ring? Useful tips for buying a ring (but also a necklace, bracelet earrings) with sapphire ♦ ︎

The blue color is beautiful: it is that of the sea, of the clear sky, and also of the most precious sapphire. But you probably know that sapphires are a stone that is found in other colors, such as yellow, pink, purple. But how to choose a sapphire ring? And how much is a sapphire worth? If you are not an expert there are some aspects that you can take into account before buying a sapphire ring (but the same goes for a necklace, earrings or bracelet). Here are some useful tips, which can help you make the right decision if you want to buy sapphire jewelry.

Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati
Anello con raro zaffiro blu non riscaldato taglio cuscino di 12 carati

1 Check the provenance. Knowing where a stone comes from is essential. For example, for sapphires, the origin of the stones is particularly important. Sapphire is extracted in many parts of the world, but not all stones are the same: there are the very rare sapphires from Kashmir, or from Burma (Myanmar) or mined in Sri Lanka. They have different prices. For example, the mines of Kashmir (India) have been exhausted for a century and, therefore, sapphires with that origin are very rare and very expensive. They are also generally considered to be of a superior quality: their color is particularly intense, saturated, with a velvety light that seems to come from within. Burmese sapphires are also similar, but have more glassy, ​​transparent, clear reflections, with a vivid color. Finally, Sri Lankan sapphires are very bright, with an almost liquid reflection with purple points. They also often have a particular crystalline texture that gives a different color intensity when turning the stone in front of a light. Sapphires from Sri Lanka look fresher and more modern than those from Burma or Kashmir. But sapphires are also mined in Thailand or Vietnam, or in Africa, for example in Tanzania, Kenya, Nigeria, Madagascar and even in Montana (United States).

Shaun Leane, anello con zaffiro di 10,53 carati
Shaun Leane, anello con zaffiro di 10,53 carati

2 Warm or unheated. In most cases, sapphires (as well as many other stones) have been heated to make the color more vivid and the gems more transparent. It has been a practice that has lasted for centuries, so don’t be scandalized. If a stone has not been heated and boasts an intense color, however, it is also of greater value. And if a sapphire is not natural and has not been heated, it is usually a quality that is underlined (and charged for) at the time of sale. Normally the stones are always accompanied by the certificate of a gemological institute. Warning: heating the sapphire is not the only way to make the stone better and more salable. Another system consists in filling the micro invoices with synthetic material with the addition of dyes. In this case, however, the stones can be damaged by an acidic substance, for example during cleaning, for example a soap or lemon juice. Therefore, before buying a sapphire, always ask if it has been treated and with what method.

Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro Ceylon, non scaldato, taglio rettangolare di 33,40 carati
Anello in oro bianco con zaffiro Ceylon, non scaldato, taglio rettangolare di 33,40 carati

3 What color. Sapphires are not all blue, the most prized color. There are also yellow, orange, red, purple, green and pink sapphires (one particular particularly fine variety is called padparadscha) and there are even colorless gems like diamonds. In general, however, the value of the stones depends a lot on the intensity of the color. The more the color is intense without compromising the brightness, the more the stone is precious.

Anello con zaffiro rosa naturale circondato da diamanti
Anello con zaffiro rosa naturale circondato da diamanti

4 Beware of defects. If you buy a sapphire ring and the stone is of a certain size it will be easier to check if there are any inclusions inside (and usually very likely to be). The inclusions can be, for example, clear filaments of rutile, which make a stone less precious. Not only that: in some cases these inclusions can threaten the solidity of the stone. If the inclusions are very visible, the price of a sapphire can drop substantially. With one exception: if the inclusions form a kind of star reflected on the surface, a fairly rare phenomenon, in that case the sapphire has a higher value.

Inclusioni in uno zaffiro del Kashmir
Inclusioni in uno zaffiro del Kashmir

5 Make a comparison. Even if a sapphire ring looks beautiful to you, ask to compare it in the light with other jewels. Your jeweler certainly has other sapphire jewels available and a comparison between different stones will make you discover, for example, if the color of your stone is more or less intense. Furthermore, as with diamonds, the quality of the cut matters a lot: usually for sapphires a round or oval cut is preferred. Large stones are also offered with a sugar loaf shape.

Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio pan di zucchero e diamanti by Viren Bhagat

6 Look at the cut. One of the aspects that can enhance or depress the value of a gem is the cut. A good cut can make a big difference, giving more brilliance to the stone and reflecting the light evenly over the entire gem. Badly cut sapphires also have a lower value. How do you know if a stone is cut well? In fact I am an expert gemologist can immediately see the defects and identify the technical cause of a failed cut. But if you expose the stone to light and compare it to similar ones, you may notice differences in the reflections: choose the brightest.

in platino con zaffiro giallo di 6,01 carati
Anello in platino con zaffiro giallo di 6,01 carati
Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Spilla in oro e diamanti con zaffiro viola
Spilla in oro e diamanti con zaffiro viola

An octagonal emerald likes Paris




Time to take stock of the world of auction sales. Christie’s Paris Joaillerie’s online jewelry sale totaled 7,860,006, averaging pre-auction estimates, which included 286 lots. Bidders from 40 countries won 42% of the jewels offered above the maximum estimate. The auction featured a selection of vintage pieces by, among others, Belperron, Boivin, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Jar, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as contemporary designers.

Collier con pendente che può essere indossato anche come spilla con uno smeraldo colombiano di taglio ottagonale da 12,284 carati e diamanti vecchio taglio
Collier con pendente che può essere indossato anche come spilla con uno smeraldo colombiano di taglio ottagonale da 12,284 carati e diamanti vecchio taglio

The sale also included jewels from collections of private collectors, with a special focus on Art Deco jewels by Cartier, retro jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels and Lacloche, pieces by Suzanne Belperron and René Boivin and a selection of jewels by René Lalique. The top lot proved to be a necklace with a pendant that can also be worn as a brooch with a 12.284-carat octagonal-cut Colombian emerald and old-cut diamonds: it was sold for 604,800 euros, against a maximum pre-sale estimate of 250,000 euros.
Collana con diamanti, oro giallo 18 carati, circa 1950 di Boucheron
Collana con diamanti, oro giallo 18 carati, circa 1950 di Boucheron

Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell'inizio del XIX secolo
Spilla di perle naturali e diamanti dell’inizio del XIX secolo
Diamante taglio brillante a pera di 8,59 carati, oro bianco 18 carati
Diamante taglio brillante a pera di 8,59 carati, oro bianco 18 carati
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di 8,01 carati e diamanti circolari
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo di 8,01 carati e diamanti circolari
Diamante taglio brillante a losanga modificato di 15,84  carati su anello di Cartier
Diamante taglio brillante a losanga modificato di 15,84 carati su anello di Cartier
L'attrice americana Sarah Rafferty indossa la collana con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti
L’attrice americana Sarah Rafferty indossa la collana con smeraldo colombiano e diamanti

Spilla con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Spilla con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels







How hard are jewelry stones?




How resistant are the stones of your jewels? Can they be damaged easily?

The hardness of gems is measured by the Mohs scale. The name derives from the German scientist Friedrich Mohs, who conceived it in 1812. The Mohs scale assigns a grade from one to ten to the degree of hardness of the stones. In this way, you can know which ones are more delicate, for example, which scratch or break more often. It is an aspect that is best known to avoid nasty surprises: knowing how hard the stones of your jewels are is also useful for cleaning. For example, an opal is not as strong as a ruby ​​and should be treated with greater delicacy.

Gemme di Filippo G&G
Gemme di Filippo G&G

In short, generally when someone buys a piece of jewelry they don’t ask you if it will be tough enough to withstand occasional bumps. Yet it is a question that is best to ask yourself, especially if the stone is mounted on a ring, a jewel that is more easily subject to contact with other materials. But the same goes for earrings or necklace if these jewels have stones.
Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l'elemento più duro in natura
Diamante taglio cuscino di Jack Reiss. Il diamante è l’elemento più duro in natura

Although we tend to believe that a stone is incredibly more solid than any common object of everyday life, this is not the case. The gems of your jewelry could be fragile stones, at risk of being scratched or even shattered in some unfortunate circumstance. Even the diamond is absolutely not safe from all danger. Fortunately, Mohs took the trouble, almost two centuries ago, to measure the hardness of different minerals, including precious stones. It is therefore possible to know the degree of hardness of the stones with some certainty.
PietraDurezza
Diamante10
Rubino9
Zaffiro9
Alessandrite8.5
Crisoberillo8.5
Topazio8
Spinello8
Smeraldo7,5-8
Andalusite7.5
Hambergite7.5
Acquamarina7,5-8
Goshenite7,5-8
Berillo7,5-8
Morganite7,5-8
Granato demantoide7-7,5
Ametista7
Tormalina7-7,5
Quarzo7
Kunzite7
Citrino7
Danburite7-7,5
Iolite7-7,5
Rubellite7-7,5
Tanzanite6,5-7
Peridoto6,5-7
Granato6,5 - 7,5
Diaspro6,5-7
Axinite6,5-7
Crisoprasio6,5-7
Corallo fossile6,5-7
Agata6,5-7
Spessartite6,5 - 7,5
Occhio di tigre6,5-7
Zircone6,5 - 7,5
Diasporo6,5-7
Eliotropio6,5-7
Tsavorite6,5 - 7,5
Onice6,5-7
Corniola6,5-7
Calcedonio6,5-7
Rhodolite6,5 - 7,5
Sillimanite6,5 - 7,5
Labradorite6 - 6.5
Pietra Luna6 - 6.5
Giadeite, giada nefrite6 - 6.5
Amazzonite6 - 6.5
Opale5.5 - 6.5
Ematite5.5 - 6.5
Lapislazzuli05-giu
Turchese05-giu
Ossidiana5-5,5
Malachite3,5-4
Corallo03-apr
Perla2,5-4,5
ChrysocollaDi 2 - 4
Ambra2-2,5

The Mohs scale was initially based on ten readily available minerals. This ranking was subsequently completed and is now an important indicator for those who buy a stone. But be careful: it is a special scale. For example, a corundum (such as ruby) is twice as hard as a topaz, but a diamond is nearly four times harder than a corundum. What you see on this page is a table that summarizes the hardness of the main stones. At the head is the diamond. Immediately after there are rubies and sapphires. Then … Federico Graglia
Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di Nomads
Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di Nomads

Set di spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild
Set con spinelli di diverse sfumature di Paul Wild







Quick guide to the cuts of the stones




Quick guide to cuts of stones, diamonds included. Learn to which shape the baguette, marquise, and brilliant cuts match … ♦

Brilliant, marquise, briolette … Diamonds, emeralds or rubies (and all other stones) can be cut in many different ways. But how often do you understand the description of a jewel and do not know exactly the meaning of the different forms that a gem takes on rings or necklaces? Here is a small guide among the different cuts of precious stones.

Baguette. It is a type that became popular during the Art Deco period: in essence, it is a variant of the emerald cut. The baguette, that is the wand, recalls the typical French bread: it is long and rectangular, with octagonal corners and 14 facets. It can create truly amazing effects and adds a strong character to the jewel. But it is also a cut that is not easy to use in jewelry. Baguette cutting is often used together with stones with other shapes. For example, a baguette cut diamond can accompany other gems with different volumes.

Taglio a baguette
Taglio a baguette
Pietra con taglio a baguette
Pietra con taglio a baguette
Galleria Leysen, orecchini in oro bianco, smeraldi colombiani e diamanti baguette
Galleria Leysen, orecchini in oro bianco, smeraldi colombiani e diamanti baguette

Brilliant / Round. The round cut is the most common form for diamonds, also because it enhances the diffraction capacity of the stone, increasing its brightness. The brilliant cut, or round, represents up to 75 percent of the diamonds sold. This cut is quite recent: it was codified only at the beginning of the last century and has 58 facets. The crown is the area that is at the top, the belt is the circumference, the widest. This cut is not easy to make, but it is certainly the one that offers the greatest enhancement of a diamond compared to its weight.

Taglio brilllante
Taglio brilllante
Orecchini in oro bianco, con diamante taglio brillante da 15 carati e due perle naturali di 13 millimetri
Orecchini in oro bianco, con diamante taglio brillante da 15 carati e due perle naturali di 13 millimetri
Anello della collezione Melody of Diamonds di de Grisogono. Un brillante, due diamanti a pera, 268 diamanti su oro bianco
Anello della collezione Melody of Diamonds di de Grisogono. Un brillante, due diamanti a pera, 268 diamanti su oro bianco

Briolette. The briolette cut is among the best known and is often used to make pendants for necklaces or earrings. This cut essentially has the shape of a drop, but multifaceted. In reality there are four variations of the teardrop shape: the most famous has the facets composed of rhombuses. But there are also the most accentuated drop-shaped, olive-shaped, ball-shaped pendants that take the shape indicated by the name.

Taglio briolette
Taglio briolette
Pendente con diamante taglio briolette
Pendente con diamante taglio briolette

Oval. It is a very simple and regular form. For this reason it is commonly believed to be one of the oldest cuts to present a diamond. However, this is not the case: this cut for gems has only been experimented since 1960. An oval-shaped diamond has a uniform and symmetrical design and has 56 facets. Like the marquise cut it is, in essence, a variant of the brilliant cut. The advantage is that the elongated shape makes the stone appear larger than the perfectly circular cut.

Taglio ovale
Taglio ovale
Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante
Lenti Villasco, anello in oro bianco e diamante ovale
Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio ovale e diamanti
Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio ovale e diamanti

Heart. The heart cut is, in essence, a pear shape with an inward fold on the upper side. As it is easy to imagine, it is used to emphasize the romantic aspect, but it is not very easy to make: it usually requires rather large stones and a lot of workmanship. But there are also Maison, like the Italian Recarlo, often use heart-shaped diamonds, even small ones, and have made them a distinctive aspect. For larger stones, however, the heart shape is usually more expensive in proportion to the carats.

Taglio a cuore
Taglio a cuore
Orecchini con diamante taglio a cuore
Orecchini con diamante taglio a cuore
Orecchini con zaffiri tagliati a cuore e diamanti
Orecchini con zaffiri tagliati a cuore e diamanti

Asscher. It assumes its name from Asscher, an Amsterdam company specialized in the diamond trade founded in 1854 by the family of the same name (it is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world, including two of the three largest diamonds ever found). In 1902 Joseph Asscher designed and patented his original Asscher cut of the same name. The idea was to combine the emerald cut with the round cut, in a shape characterized by extreme symmetry and dramatically-cut corners. Like the emerald cut, Asscher needs stones without inclusions and very clear.

Taglio Asscher
Taglio Asscher
Anello con grande diamante taglio Asscher firmato David Morris
Anello con grande diamante taglio Asscher firmato David Morris
Anello con diamante asscher giallo contornato da diamanti biancbi taglio a pera
Anello con diamante asscher giallo contornato da diamanti biancbi taglio a pera

Cushion. It is easy to come across the cushion-cut on antique jewelry: it is, in fact, the oldest form, an update of the so-called Old Mine cut of the 18th century. As the name indicates, it is a cushion-shaped cut with 58 facets. The corners are rounded and the facets typically larger than the brilliant cut. But it requires very high-quality stones.

Taglio cuscino
Taglio cuscino
Diamante fancy intense blue con taglio a cuscino
Diamante fancy intense blue con taglio a cuscino
Anello con diamante fancy intense yellow e diamanti incolori
Anello con diamante fancy intense yellow e diamanti incolori

Marquise. Few people know why this form is called like this: according to the legend this cut has instead a spicy story. It would have been invented at the court of the king of France: Louis XIV commissioned it, it seems, to combine the stone with Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, marquise of Pompadour, her lover. The cut is an elongated shape that reaches a point at both ends, with slightly rounded sides. Like the oval cut, the marquise cut enhances the visual impact of the stone, which appears larger than round cuts of the same carat weight.

Taglio marquise
Taglio marquise
Anello con diamante taglio marquise di 4,61 carati, colore D, chiarezza VVS
Anello con diamante taglio marquise di 4,61 carati, colore D, chiarezza VVS
Chanel, anello con diamante taglio marquise e zaffiri
Chanel, anello con diamante taglio marquise e zaffiri

Pear. Make a mix of the oval cut with the marquise cut and here the result is the pear shape. As the name indicates, the shape is similar to that of the fruit and is widely used in jewelry, also because it has the advantage of enhancing the light in diamonds and adding a hint of asymmetry to the design. A pear cut diamond has 58 facets: asymmetry is one of the most appreciated aspects by many jewelers, who use the pear shape for rings as an alternative to the classic round cut. But this form is also widely used for pendants.

Taglio a pera
Taglio a pera
Orecchini con diamanti taglio pera
Orecchini con diamanti taglio pera
Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l'uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino
Anello con due diamanti, fancy vivid blue e bianco taglio pera, circa 2 carati l’uno, con diamanti baguette ai lati, montati su platino

Princess. It is one of the most recent news. In fact, this type of cut has only been introduced in jewelry since 1980 and is very popular especially in North America. The princess cut is square or rectangular, which in some cases manages to be brighter than the typical round cut. But of course it also depends on the starting shape of the stone. Another advantage of the “princess” cut is that it requires less waste of raw stone than other cuts.

Taglio princess
Taglio princess
Anello in platino con diamanti bianchi e rosa
Anello in platino con diamante taglio princess e diamanti bianchi e rosa
ANCO02
Anello con un ciuffo di alghe in tsavoriti e diamanti black, trattiene un’acquamarina taglio princess di 52.45 carati

Radiant. It combines the virtues of brilliant cut with those of emerald cut. The radiant form was developed in 1977 and has between 62 and 70 facets. It is often confused with the princess cut, but unlike the latter, the radiant shape has cut corners, which slightly sweetens the square shape. With the same weight, compared to a round cut diamond, the radiant surface is 4% smaller. On the other hand, a radiant cut diamond appears larger.

Taglio radiant
Taglio radiant
Radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold
Picchiotti, radiant diamond (3.20 ct) and diamond (4.80 ct) ring set in white and yellow gold
Radiant Fancy Pink DB Classic Pavé Ring
Anello con diamante rosa taglio radiant e pavé di brillanti

Emerald. The shape is rectangular, with cut corners. It is one of the oldest and one of the most demanding cuts: with this form the defects of a stone can be seen immediately. On some occasions it is also called step-cut, because its concentric, wide and flat surfaces remind the steps of the stairs. Faulty inclusions and colors are enhanced, but at the same time the best stones are enhanced. It typically has 50 to 58 facets.

Taglio smeraldo
Taglio smeraldo
Galleria Leysen, anello in platino e diamante taglio smeraldo da 8,32 carati
Galleria Leysen, anello in platino e diamante taglio smeraldo da 8,32 carati
Charles green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino
Charles Green, anello con acquamarina taglio smeraldo, diamanti, su platino

Trilliant. This cut was also developed by Asscher. It was launched in New York in 1960. It is considered excellent for the ability to enhance light within the stone. Basically it is a triangular shape, with curved and straight parts, sharp and rounded corners. This cut has different variations: the sides, for example, can be curved or straight and the shape of the surface is also subject to different interpretations.

Taglio trilliant
Taglio trillion
Tanzanite a taglio triangolare con oro bianco e diamanti
Tanzanite a taglio triangolare con oro bianco e diamanti







Gems that look the same




Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello
Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby ​​and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Spinello di 8 carati
Spinello di 8 carati

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti
Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.
Rubellite con tonalità lampone
Rubellite con tonalità lampone

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Zircone taglio brillante
Zircone taglio brillante

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti
Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino
Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca
Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri
Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri
Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza
Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina
Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina







How to clean gold and precious stones

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How to clean gold, diamonds and other precious stones? Here is a quick guide with what you need to know about how to clean your jewelry ♦

Of course, a very precious jewel must be kept with care and, frankly, if it has a great value, even emotional, it is better to take it periodically to the jeweler, who can also check its state of health: it happens, for example, that the stones can be detached. , or that the surface is covered with scratches. But it is not always necessary. You can (indeed, must) clean your jewelry periodically, just like washing your laundry. A jewel, in fact, is almost always in contact with the skin and is covered with an opaque patina due to the natural fat that comes out of the pores, and even worse it can be ruined by perfumes, creams and lotions used regularly. Here, then, are the tips for cleaning jewelry to perform at home.

ring

Unlike silver, for example, gold does not blacken over time, but it can easily accumulate dust and dirt. The same goes for diamonds which, of all gems, have the greatest ability to retain organic fragments. And so jewelers are horrified when customers bring rings to tighten or widen, earrings to fix, and wonder why they don’t wash them like their clothes. You can restore the luster of jewelry by yourself, just a few household tools and a few ingredients.

1-detersivo
1 Pour a few drops of liquid dish soap into a bowl of water that is just over warm, but not hot. Gently mix. Even if normal tap water works well, for even better results, you can use soda-free soda water: carbon dioxide gives rise to a process, carbonation, which in surfactants, i.e. detergents, helps to dissolve dirt. and accumulated debris. Do not use very hot or boiling water because some stones, such as opals, pearls and corals, can break with a rapid and drastic change in temperature. Then, soak for about 15 minutes to allow the solution to penetrate otherwise hard-to-reach cracks and crevices.

wash

2 Gently scrub the jewelry with a soft bristled toothbrush, the softest possible (there are specific products, but a toothbrush or eyebrow brush will be fine), to avoid scratching the surface. Attention, stiff bristles may remove the top layer in the case of gold plated or galvanic treatment jewelry. Particular attention should be paid to very sensitive and soft stones, such as opals, or pearls.

Read also: How to clean cameos, pearls, emeralds, opals, crystals
spazzolino--2

3 Rinse in running water (always lukewarm) to remove the last residues, remembering to cover the drain plug with a pasta or metal filter coffee sieve. Domestic accidents are more frequent than imagined and even the ring or earrings in the sink pipe are a classic! One last consideration. Let the jewelry dry completely before wearing it again: if it is still wet, even slightly, it can retain moisture on the skin and cause mild skin irritation.
rubinetto

There is another method, that of toothpaste, useful for traveling or for everyday jewelry

1 Mix a small amount of toothpaste and water in a bowl to make a smooth paste.
2 Scrub with an old soft-bristled toothbrush.
3 Rinse thoroughly.

But if the dirt remains, before trying more radical methods such as boiling water or ammonia, which we strongly advise against, it is best to consult a professional.
dentrifricio







The luxury of Caram




If you are fond of precious gems you must know Caram. It was founded by an Indian, Raj Kumar Jain in 1975, but in Idar-Oberstein in Germany. The company is also present in Hong Kong and Jaipur, the city of origin, which is also the Indian capital of gems. The company specializes in the trade of diamonds, colored precious stones, but also produces high jewelery. To give an idea of ​​what Caram treats, we offer you some images that summarize the brand’s activity.

Anello con smeraldo Muzo di 4 carati
Anello con smeraldo Muzo di 4 carati

Starting with the Mughal style necklace (Arab domination of the northern part of India, between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries) with carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires. A composition that does not go unnoticed. The 65-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald is exceptional in size, quality and color. The ring was also made following the dictates of a style of the past. It is made with platinum and a Kashmiri sapphire: it is natural (unheated) gemstone of 5.09 carats. Other jewels, on the other hand, are made according to classic aesthetic models, with large and high quality diamonds or colored stones.

Orecchini smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini smeraldi e diamanti
Anello con rubino taglio ovale e diamanti
Anello con rubino taglio ovale e diamanti
Orecchini con zaffiri taglio cuscino e diamanti
Orecchini con zaffiri taglio cuscino e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro Padparadscha e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro Padparadscha e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino e diamanti

Anello con zaffiro ovale e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro ovale e diamanti







Chopard even greener with a maxi emerald





It is quite rare for a jewelry house to present something that is not a jewel. The only exceptions envisaged concern precious stones but, they are in exceptional cases, such as the one concerning Chopard. One of these concerns a large emerald weighing 6,225 carats which equates to over 1.2 kilograms. Certainly you don’t see many emeralds that big, but also of such high quality. The emerald also has a name: Chopard Insofu Emerald. The word insofu means elephant in Bemba, the language of the people living in the region of origin of the stone, in Zambia, Africa. The stone was extracted, in fact, in the Kagem mine and was chosen directly by the co-president and artistic director of Chopard, Caroline Scheufele.

Chopard Insofu Emerald
Chopard Insofu Emerald

The fully traceable stone will be cut into different pieces for use in future Chopard collections. The Maison, which for some time has chosen to use only fairmined gold, during the week of couture in Paris also presented other pieces of high jewelery, such as a ring with a 10.88 carat radiant cut fancy intense pink diamond and a Toi ring. & Moi with a 4.10 carat deep blue fancy diamond and a white diamond.

Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati
Il grande smeraldo del peso di 6,225 carati
Anello con un diamante rosa intenso fancy taglio radiante da 10,88 carati e rubini
Anello con un diamante rosa intenso fancy taglio radiante da 10,88 carati e rubini
Anello Toi & Moi con un diamante fancy blu intenso da 4,10 carati e un diamante bianco
Anello Toi & Moi con un diamante fancy blu intenso da 4,10 carati e un diamante bianco taglio pera

Anello con zaffiro blu e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro blu e diamanti







Takat, the design which comes from India

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Takat, brand which won the prestigious Best Design Jck Award, has a history that comes from afar: Haji Nisar Ahmed Takat, was descended from an ancient family of Indian craftsmen stonemasons. In 1955, he opened his first workshop of carving and polishing in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India. In 1976, with the help of the children Siraj Ahmed Takat and Rafeeq Ahmed Takat, opened a small office in the city and began buying and selling of precious stones.

Anello in oro giallo e bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Anello in oro giallo e bianco, diamanti, smeraldo

In 1994, Siraj and Rafeeq began to exhibit in gems and jewelry trade shows around the world, from Hong Kong to Tokyo, Tucson, from Chicago to Vicenza, Milan and Dubai. Up to open an office in New York City. Despite this, Takat remains a family company. The winner of the prize jewel is a necklace with a reversible tanzanite cut shield from 18.73 carat round diamonds and marquise cut diamonds. For those interested, it costs 25 thousand dollars.

Anello con rubino naturale e diamanti
Anello con rubino naturale e diamanti
Anello con diamanti champagne e morganite
Anello con diamanti champagne e morganite
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi per 7 carati e diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi per 7 carati e diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini com smeraldi taglio a goccia
Orecchini com smeraldi taglio a goccia
Collana con diamanti e tanzanite di oltre 186 carati
Collana con diamanti e tanzanite di oltre 186 carati
Anello eternity con zaffiri blu
Anello eternity con zaffiri blu







Diamonds, an Amour with 77 faces

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A diamond with 77 facets: it’s called Crisscut and is mounted in the jewels of the L’Amour collection by Christopher Designs ♦

Love is true love only if it is excessive, right? It is something that involves, that drives us to do great things, to challenge rules and clichés. And, then, why a diamond donated for love should not be in tune with this pleasant madness? Christopher Slowinski must have thought in this way when he founded Christopher Designs, in 1981. Born in Poland, Slowinski has worked as a simple apprentice with master craftsmen even after moving to the United States, in New York. City.

Anello L'Amour, con diamante Crisscut classic
Anello L’Amour, con diamante Crisscut classic

Long story short: he invented Crisscut, a patented diamond cut that increases to 77 the little faces of the stones, instead of the traditional 48. This cut makes it even brighter and more brilliant diamond. The Crisscut was initially applied to the emerald cut, to increase their reflexes. But then Christopher has also extended the concept to other cuts such as the Asscher and cushion until you get to 109 facets in a round stone. But the brilliant Crisscut actually has straight walls 12 and 12 sides and this further increases the brightness. The diamonds have become the L’Amour collection. Which has no limits, of course.

Diamante Crisscut su taglio smeraldo, a 77 facce
Diamante Crisscut su taglio smeraldo, a 77 facce

Anello con diamanti taglio Asscher e Crisscut
Anello con diamanti taglio Asscher e Crisscut
Anello con diamanti taglio L'Amour Crisscut
Anello con diamanti taglio L’Amour Crisscut

comparazione

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo Crisscut
Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo Crisscut

La comparazione tra il taglio classico e Crisscut
La comparazione tra il taglio classico e Crisscut







Why choose an emerald ring?




How and why to choose an emerald ring: useful tips for buying the green stone ♦ ︎

Is green your favorite color? It is certainly the color of the meadows, but also of Ireland, of youth and much more. For example, emeralds. Green is very fashionable, also thanks to the awareness that greater environmental protection is needed. So, if you want to buy an emerald ring you have made the right choice. Wait a minute: can you choose an emerald ring? Here’s what you need to know (and don’t skip # 5).

Anello in oro e smeraldo di Loren Nicole
Anello in oro e smeraldo colombiano Muzo di Loren Nicole

1 Attention to treatment. Often the stones used by jewelers are not in the same condition as when they are extracted from the ground. Emeralds, for example, are in most cases treated in some way to improve their appearance. And this happens because emeralds very often have inclusions, also called jardin in a romantic way. These gardens can alter the appearance of the stone too much and, for this reason, can be eliminated or reduced with different methods. This is not bad if it improves the appearance. Another problem that is almost always encountered in emeralds are the micro cracks present in the stone. Therefore, it is better to know which treatment the emerald you want to buy undergoes. Often, for example, emeralds are treated with a special oil or synthetic resin. To improve them, the stones are immersed in the liquid, which is subsequently compressed into the gem so that it can penetrate as deeply as possible between the micro cracks of the emerald. The treatment with oil is the most natural and does not remain forever in the stone. Even so, however, inclusions may be visible. Nothing wrong with that: but know that the most precious emeralds (very rare and much more expensive), however, are those that do not undergo treatments.

Winston Emerald Ring HD
Anello di Harry Winston con smeraldo

2 Ask where it comes from. When buying an emerald ring ask where the stone was mined. The most precious emeralds, for example, come from Colombia, often they are also clearer and more transparent. For this reason, green can sometimes appear slightly less intense. The most popular emeralds are those with a darker, deeper shade, almost tending to blue. On the other hand, an untreated emerald, even if it is a little pale, but without inclusions, can be more precious than a treated dark one. Other excellent emeralds come from African countries, such as Zambia. But also from Zimbabwe and Ethiopia.

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi dello Zambia by Vania Leles

3 How to evaluate an emerald. How much is an emerald really worth? Difficult to say: it can range from a few hundred euros or dollars to thousands for each carat, it all depends on the quality. Color is the most considered aspect in establishing the price for an emerald. The most popular hue tends to a saturated and vivid color, but not too dark. Another important aspect is transparency: the more they are similar to a crystal, the more they are required. Third important parameter is that the color is distributed evenly. So, take a good look at your emerald before buying it.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà by Crieri

4 Shape is important. The classic cut for the green stone is called the emerald cut. It is a rectangular type cut, with a stepped edge, straight linear facets, arranged parallel along the stone. To prevent fracture of the gemstone the corners of an emerald cut stone are usually cut, in order to avoid friction or random impacts. This type of cut also has another reason: it is the one that best suits the type of crystal with which the emeralds are composed. Furthermore, it is the cut that manages to make the micro cracks less evident.

Smeraldo di 3,45 carati di Emco Gem
Smeraldo di 3,45 carati di Emco Gem

5 Beware of clones. The idea is spreading that it is more respectful for the environment to use synthetic stones instead of natural gems, extracted from the earth. It is a controversial aspect. In any case, usually synthetic emeralds (but also diamonds and other stones) are generally marketed with the company name and the word “created” or “grown”, lab-grown, ie coming from a laboratory. You won’t also find the word “synthetic”, but it is the same thing: they cost less, but it is not a natural stone. To you the choice.

Anello con smeraldo di 6 carati, diamanti e smeraldi a cornice
Anello con smeraldo di 6 carati, diamanti e smeraldi a cornice by Mariani 1878

6 How to clean the emerald. Remember that an emerald almost always has micro fractures, usually invisible to the naked eye. Therefore, avoid aggressive detergents, but also cleaning with ultrasound or steam. Warm water and a few drops of neutral soap, on the other hand, are fine.

Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati
Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati






 

Rajesh Popley’s jewels

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Rajesh Popley’s and his Al Anwaar, from India to Dubai for those who love the ultimate in luxury ♦ ︎

If you are planning a trip to Dubai and are in the mood for shopping, and buying jewelry, you can head straight for Al Anwaar, in the large Mall of the Emirates city. It is the realm of Rajesh Popley, an Indian entrepreneur who, in addition to owning the luxurious Dubai store, has a career as a jeweler in his native India.

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri blu
Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri blu

Rajesh Popley was born into a family of established jewelers and at the age of 16 he attended the course of the Gemmological Institute of India, the country’s leading authority on gemology. From his father, on the other hand, he learned commerce, the ethics behind sales and craftsmanship, refined with a management course at Harvard Business School. He loves travel, which he does with his wife and children, in search of ateliers and precious stones. It is not surprising, therefore, that the jewels found in Al Anwaar and those of his Maison, Rajesh Popley, are of the highest quality. With surprising peaks, as in the case of the ring with a large and rare blue diamond.

Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Anello con zaffiro blu e zaffiri viola
Orecchini con zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldi
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldi
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, rubini e zaffiri
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, rubini e zaffiri
Pendente con zaffiri rosa
Pendente con zaffiri rosa

Collana di Al Anwaar con diamanti e smeraldi
Collana di Al Anwaar con diamanti e smeraldi







Muzo, emeralds from the producer to the consumer

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From producer to consumer. It is usually a formula that is used for fruits, vegetables and the like. This time, however, it is emeralds, the most precious, the Colombian ones of Muzo. With the month of May, which has emeralds as its birthstone, the Colombian mining company launched its jewelry collections based on the green precious stone. Muzo has been involving famous designers for years who make jewels with Colombian emeralds. But now he has decided to sell the ones he designed and made directly online.

Orecchini pendenti  in oro 18 carati, con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi Muzo taglio rotondo e pera
Orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati, con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi Muzo taglio rotondo e pera

These are classic jewels, presented with the first collection called Nova. Emerald rings and earrings are set in diamond crowns or set and flanked by white or yellow diamonds. Jewels that are presented with the help of the model Alana Tapigliani. There is also a piece of high jewelry: a 13.20-carat emerald ring surrounded by pink diamonds from the Australian Argyle mine.
Anello in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo Muzo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti e smeraldo Muzo
Orecchini con smeraldi Muzo e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi Muzo e diamanti

Orecchini con tre smeraldi Muzo e diamanti
Orecchini con tre smeraldi Muzo e diamanti

Anello con smeraldo di 13,20 carati e diamanti rosa Argyle
Anello con smeraldo di 13,20 carati e diamanti rosa Argyle







The maxi aquamarine of Sanalitro

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Milanese jeweler Massimo Sanalitro loves make it big. He started as a teenager learning the secrets of gem cutting in Bologna. Then, he moved to Milan, where he worked with jewelers such as Buccellati and Angela Pintaldi. Finally, he went on his own and founded his Maison. But, in fact, to go big: in particular the jeweler is famous for his cocktail rings generously enriched with stones, often in a maxi format. A fame that has brought him to international markets: he has worked for the Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin and, sporadically, for creators such as Armani, Cavalli, Donna Karan, as well as passing through the windows of Bergdorf & Goodman, in New York.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti
Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti

Over time, the designer has not changed his habits and, every now and then, he surprises everyone with exceptional pieces. For example, this super ring with a 76.72 carat maxi aquamarine, covering three fingers of the hand, mounted on 18 carat white gold. However, the jewel weighs just over 30 grams and it is possible to wear it without problems. In addition, four diamonds are set on the prongs. Another recent and remarkable piece is a ring with a large emerald of 33.95 carats, set in a retro-flavored set, with gold and small diamonds.
Anello con acquamarina indossato
Anello con acquamarina indossato

Anello con smeraldo di 33,95 carati
Anello con smeraldo di 33,95 carati

Bracciale in ebano con turchese
Bracciale in ebano con turchese

Anello in oro con tormalina pesca e topazio fumé con due diamanti grezzi
Anello in oro con tormalina pesca e topazio fumé con due diamanti grezzi

Anello in oro con acquamarina, quarzo fumé, diamanti
Anello in oro con acquamarina, quarzo fumé, diamanti







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