Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

Natural or synthetic diamonds? Research reveals that…

Are synthetic diamonds, usually defined as grown in a laboratory, a scam or an opportunity for the consumer? Depends. The thorny issue has divided the jewelry world for some years. And some, even a brand like De Beers, ended up choosing Solomonically to sell both. The topic is hot and was addressed during one of the talks organized at Vicenzaoro January. The results of a survey by Format Research added fuel to the fire.

Anello in oro giallo e diamanti di laboratorio
Ring in yellow gold and laboratory diamonds

The research was carried out on a significant sample of Italian consumers, with a focus on the perception between synthetic and natural. The study was aimed at citizens over the age of 25 who in the last three years have purchased a diamond (natural or synthetic) or who would have liked to purchase one. The interviews with consumers (200 cases) were carried out via the CAWI (Computer Aided Web Interview) System in the period between 18 and 22 December 2023. The qualitative interviews with jewelers (34 cases) were carried out via the CATI (Computer Aided) System Web Interview) in the period between 2 and 11 January 2024.
La presentazione della ricerca
Presentation of the research

First data: 27.5% of consumers who have purchased at least one piece of jewelery in the last three years have opted for a diamond. Over 35%, however, wanted to buy a diamond, but subsequently gave up on the purchase: the renunciation was mainly caused by the excessive cost of diamonds (77.5% of cases). The research also established that 86.5% of consumers are aware of synthetic diamonds or have heard of them. Advice from jewelers, industry experts (42.2%) and online searches on specialized websites (38.5%) are the main channels through which consumers have acquired information on synthetic diamonds.

Of those who purchased a diamond, 80% chose a natural gem, 20% a synthetic stone. 55% of those who purchased a natural diamond did so because the stones have a lasting value due to their rarity and uniqueness and 42.5% because they preserve and increase their value over time. Among other things, this is also what 88.2% of the jewelers interviewed think.

The main reasons why consumers purchased synthetic diamonds are essentially two: it is impossible to see the difference with a natural gem with the naked eye (60%) and the more accessible price (50.5%): multiple answers were allowed.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

And the jewelers? 23.5% of those interviewed sell synthetic diamonds. OF these, 14.7% say they sell them in limited quantities compared to natural diamonds. 76.5%, however, do not sell synthetic diamonds. The survey also shows that nine out of ten diamonds sold in Italy by jewelers in the last year are natural diamonds. The remaining 10% of sales, however, concern synthetic diamonds. Italian jewelers also have a very bad opinion of synthetic diamonds: around 53% of jewelers consider synthetic diamonds to be “fake”, as they are created in a laboratory. And over 85% of jewelers believe that the synthetic diamond does not represent the future of diamond.
Pierluigi Ascani
Pierluigi Ascani

Finally, according to over 73% of jewelers, many customers have limited knowledge about the difference between natural and synthetic diamonds but tend to prefer natural diamonds for traditional or emotional reasons. «The consumer is not able to distinguish between synthetic and natural diamonds. Only the professionalism, ethics and storytelling ability of the jeweler can make the difference”, commented Pierluigi Ascani of Format Research.
Stefano Andreis
Stefano Andreis

The picture that emerges from the research conducted for the Federpreziosi Confcommercio Observatory offers, in fact, many food for thought. If in the USA the synthetic diamond seems to be gaining more and more space, in Italy and, perhaps, in Europe, the laboratory gem has not yet taken root. «Starting from the jeweler’s point of view, from reading the data the belief seems to prevail that only the professional jeweler can be a point of reference for the customer», is the comment of Stefano Andreis, president of Federpreziosi. «The customer today is quite informed, but marketing operations often do not help to clarify. Anyone who is ready to purchase a diamond, however, has typically made the ethical choice of him; it is then up to the jeweler to guide the customer towards the best choice”, is the analysis of Steven Tranquilli, director of Federpreziosi.
Steven Tranquilli
Steven Tranquilli

And according to the president of the Italian Association of Gemologists Rinaldo Cusi, «to know and be able to describe the diamond it is necessary to move between Science and History, so as to be able to make the appropriate distinctions and attribute the correct symbolic value». Finally, the jeweler and gemologist Davide Bolzoni believes it is important to insist on the correct terminology when talking about natural and synthetic diamonds: «It is important to make yourself clearly understood by your customers, highlighting the appropriate differences, for example between artificial and synthetic, without boring them, but with precision and balance. This applies when talking about physical characteristics as well as ethical issues and sustainability. Accuracy and the ability to arouse emotions must also be part of the story.” I agree with Loredana Prosperi, director of the Laboratory of the IGI-Italian Gemological Institute, according to which «the history of synthetic diamonds was born way back in 1954, the same year in which the Vicenza Goldsmith Fair was born, and it is interesting to retrace the stages to discover how from the beginning the jeweler’s professionalism was of fundamental importance in correctly orienting consumers. Today more than ever also on ethical and sustainability issues.”
Rinaldo Cusi
Rinaldo Cusi

Loredana Prosperi
Loredana Prosperi
Davide Bolzoni
Davide Bolzoni

Geometries in Valani Atelier

Geometries and precious stones: the amazing story of Heena Shah and her Valani Atelier ♦ ︎

Forget the story of the little girl who loved to play with her grandmother’s jewels and grew up to be a designer. No. Heena Shah, originally from India, worked as an engineer at Google. From algorithms to gems: it was not a simple jump. But now she is satisfied and has known success with her Maison, Valani Atelier, based in New York.

Bracciale Stella con smeraldi e diamanti
Stella bracelet with emeralds and diamonds

The story of change, on the other hand, passes through the designer’s husband, who is part of an ancient family of gem merchants. For over 80 years, in fact, the Valani family has been buying precious stones directly from mines all over the world and employing artisans who work with traditional techniques. The designer is passionate about art and sculpture and at some point in her life she decided to travel. Before with her husband in Hong Kong, and then through the mines of half the world. The passion for sculpture and the discovery of the beauty of gems did the rest of her.

Rival Diamond Ear Cuff
Rival Diamond Ear Cuff

To become a jeweler, however, one step was missing: learning the trade. This is why Heena Shah attended design courses at the Gemological Institute of America in New York. The engineering profession has probably helped the designer in her design work. And in a short time she has collected several awards for her work, including an Agta Spectrum Award, a WJA Diva Award and the Platinum Innovation Award, while this year a diamond and emerald bracelet came first in the InStore Design Awards category. The style of Atelier Valani ranges between classic and modern: some jewels follow a kind of Nordic minimalism, others have an aspect that corresponds more to the typical canons of jewelery.

Orecchini in oro bianco e zaffiri
White gold and sapphire earrings
Orecchini con rubini e diamanti
Earrings with rubies and diamonds
Orecchini Cyra con smeraldi e diamanti
Cyra earrings with emeralds and diamonds
Anello con opale, rubini, zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Ring with opal, rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds
Anello con opale, smeraldi e diamanti
Ring with opal, emeralds and diamonds

Be careful of the prices of laboratory diamonds

Why are the sales of artificial diamond jewelery created in the laboratory increasing? Those who love diamonds must take into account a trend that is becoming more and more popular: that of gems produced artificially, in laboratories. Research firm Brainy Insights recently estimated that the  $10.8 billion lab-grown diamond market will reach $20.6 billion by 2032. Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly seen as a more attractive option. affordable compared to jewelry made with naturally mined diamonds. And more and more brands, from Pandora to De Beers, offer jewelery with laboratory-grown diamonds, now available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. And at an affordable price. So lab-grown diamond manufacturers are working with several jewelry companies and designers, particularly in Europe, to produce distinctive, fashionable and exclusive jewelry.

Bracciale tennis in oro bianco e diamanti di laboratorio
Tennis bracelet in white gold and laboratory diamonds by V Rai

Also according to the Bloomberg news agency, artificial stones, created in laboratories, are a growing market. Simply put, most artificial diamonds are made by two different methods: with carbon treated in a special microwave and strong overheating, which turns into a plasma ball, or strong compression is used. They are methods that simulate the natural process by which, over millions of years, diamonds were formed in the depths of the Earth. These processes (the two systems are called HPHT or CVD), however, require special machines (don’t try with your home microwave) to crystallize the carbon and transform it into gems also used (but not only) for jewellery. For this reason, in any case, defining laboratory diamonds as green is a stretch: the process of creating synthetic gems is still very energy-intensive. The largest producers of synthetic diamonds are located in India, China and the United States.

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera
Synthesis diamond with pear cut, stone created in the laboratory

How do you recognize them?
Artificial diamonds are difficult to distinguish from natural ones. Only experts, with special machines and in laboratories with sophisticated equipment, can perceive the different characteristics, processing and cutting. Indeed, some synthetic diamonds have properties such as hardness, thermal conductivity and electron mobility that are superior to those of most natural diamonds. Impurities are generally avoided, but can be intentionally introduced to change some properties of the diamond. In short, distinguishing them is really difficult and, for a simple jeweler, almost impossible. This is also why natural diamonds are accompanied by a certificate that guarantees their authenticity.
Synthetic diamonds are usually very small, weighing less than 1 carat, although larger laboratory gems are starting to appear on the market. They are not just white, colorless. There are also fancy ones, in particular yellow and blue. The yellow comes from nitrogen impurities in the manufacturing process, while the blue comes from boron. Other colors, such as pink or green, are obtained using radioactive rain (but without danger to health, hopefully).

Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice
Gold ring with laboratory diamonds from the Solstice collection by Brilliant Earth

Do they cost more or less?
Synthetic diamonds are sold on average for 15-30% less than their natural equivalents. However, it also depends on their quality: even artificial diamonds are not all the same. According to the producers, the price should decrease further as production improves. Is it worth choosing them? But, be careful: Rapaport Group, which is a party to the dispute since it deals with information on the diamond trade, has raised an alarm with the aim of warning consumers about the retail prices of laboratory-grown diamonds, considered too high . According to Rapaport, some lab stones were purchased in bulk at prices up to 99% below list price for natural diamonds. But many retailers have not applied the same discount to consumers.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti lab grown per 0,98 carati
White gold ring with lab grown diamonds totaling 0.98 carats

Clean the jewels with ketchup, beer and vodka

Tomato ketchup, vodka or beer to clean your jewelry. Yes, you can. If you do not have anything better at hand … ♦

At the table with jewels. To clean them. According to somebody, there are many ways to make brighter necklaces, rings and earrings: just use some products that are usually used in the kitchen. For example, ketchup, beer and vodka. Attention: we are not advising to follow these indications, especially for your most precious jewels. But, who knows, maybe it works …

Tomato sauce

For example, a bowl of ketchup can clean a ring dipped in red sauce after 5 or 10 minutes. Don’t leaving the jewel in contact with the sauce for too long: could cause damage. Clean everything with a toothbrush and rinse. Another useful food is beer: just pour a little on a clean cloth and rub gently to revive the gold. Better not to try, however, on light plating, and do not use dark beer.

Pulire i gioielli con l'acqua minerale
Pulire i gioielli con l’acqua minerale

Alcohol also likes diamonds: a small glass of vodka can restore brightness to the stones, but also to zirconia and crystal. Just pour the vodka on a soft cloth and carefully clean the jewels, or immerse the jewel in a glass full of the Russian liquor par excellence. Those who are teetotalers are consoled: sparkling water is excellent for resurrecting the splendor of the gems. Immerse a jewel with stones embedded in a glass with sparkling mineral water. Let it rest overnight: in the morning everything will be more shiny.
And after lunch? Brushing your teeth is a good hygiene rule. While you are there, however, you can use toothbrush and toothpaste on metal jewels or stones like diamonds or rubies. Then, rinse (before returning to the table).

Spazzolino e dentifricio sono utili anche per pulire i gioielli
Toothbrush and toothpaste are also useful for cleaning jewelry

Brusi and the asymmetric nature

The jewels of the small Milanese Maison Brusi, founded in 1930 ♦

Brusi is part of the many stories of Italian jewelry. A story that began in Milan in 1920, when the young Pietro Codari, a young goldsmith, started his business and opened a laboratory. The story continued: in 1970 his son Paolo inherited his laboratory and profession. Over time the company has expanded and has refined its vocation. Today, Paolo, Andrea and Simone, Paolo Codari’s three children, work in the family business and are responsible for the creative, financial and commercial management of Brusi.

Anello in oro con tanzanite e corona di diamanti
Gold ring with tanzanite and diamond crown

The company, located in a historic area of the city, between the Monumental Cemetery of Milan and the Chinese quarter, offers good quality pieces, based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. Rings with champagne diamond pavé and precious stones such as tanzanite are the workhorses. Always with the style of «almost symmetry». That is, that difference from the perfect geometric specularity that is often found in nature. The goal is to present jewelry in harmony with nature, thanks to this natural asymmetry. Subtle but interesting concept.

Anelli con smeraldi e zaffiri
Rings with emeralds and blue sapphires
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite

Salvatore Arzani, hearts, flowers and fantasy

Pavé diamonds, gold, sapphires … These are the classic materials used to make Salvatore Arzani jewels ♦

One of the many luxury craft workshops that are found in Valenza is Salvatore Arzani. It is a small company, but with great quality, so it can sells abroad most of its production. As often happens in the Piedmont town, the company is the daughter of a long tradition. Together with the wife of founder, daughters and a dozen virtuosos of embedding, engraving and welding machine, the small brand is a kind of summary of what the Italian craftsmanship and design in jewelery.

Collana in oro bianco 18 kt con pendente chicco di riso in pavé di diamanti
18 kt white gold necklace with grain of rice pendant in pavé diamonds

For example, with a collection of unique pieces in 18 carat gold and diamonds, with extensive use of colored stones that dot the large rings that make up the chains. Even collections such as Fantasia, in any case, follow the classical canons of diamonds, whites, blacks or colored stones like sapphires pavé that make sometimes resemble mosaics and a winding arabesques. Bracelets, big rings, pendants in the shape of hearts or flowers, are the cornerstones of signed Salvatore Arzani jewelry.

18 kt white gold ring set with brilliant-cut diamonds
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti a forma di fiore
Flower-shaped ring in white gold and diamonds
Anelli con diamanti e zaffiri della collezione Fantasia
Rings with diamonds and sapphires from the Fantasia collection
Anelli rosa con diamanti bianchi, neri e colorati
Pink rings with white, black and colored diamonds
Catena in oro e diamanti
Chain in gold and diamonds
Anelli catena in oro bianco, giallo e diamanti
Chain rings in white and yellow gold and diamonds

Jewelry and gold: real or fake? Questions and answers

True or false? Can gold be recognized with a bite? Is real jade cold? Is cubic zirconia, often confused with zircon, indistinguishable from diamond? Does silver cause allergies? Is 925 the number of perfect silver? Do the reflections of a stone have to be rainbow? These are among the many questions we often receive and their answers.

To check that your jewel of gold genuine need to bite him.

FALSE Pure gold is a very soft metal and, in fact, teeth can easily leave a mark if it is very pure, 24 carats. But biting it is neither a guarantee nor a recommendable test. Furthermore, it can damage your teeth. Not to mention that lead is even softer than gold: a jewel that uses gold-plated lead could easily be mistaken. Furthermore, 18 karat gold is usually used for jewelry, or even less: 14 and even 9 karat. It is gold alloyed with other metals: this makes the gold less malleable and also less expensive. In short, in reality, in addition to gold, we also end up biting other metals such as silver, copper, palladium, nickel.

Biting gold is not a guarantee
Biting gold is not a guarantee

True or false? To find out if a stone is genuine need to look at it in the light.

TRUE Note: the only truly reliable way to identify a gemstone is the opinion of a gemologist or a jeweler, or laboratory tests. That said, here’s a helpful hint to decide whether it is worthwhile to consider the stone of a ring or a necklace. Place the stone against the sunlight and look at the range of colors it produces. The authentic gemstones usually show a rainbow that will be reflected on a nearby surface. Most of the real gems will produce a full range of colors: the stone closer to the eye and tilt it, you should see a rainbow. The stones that produce nothing are often false. We repeat: it is not a final proof: for some stones, especially those very dense, deep coloring or that were not completely polished, the system may not work. But it is a little test should not be overlooked.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Examination of a diamond jewel

A cubic zirconia is virtually the same as a diamond, only it costs less.

FALSE What is commonly called a zircon is actually a cubic zirconia: an artificial stone that resembles a diamond. It’s brilliant, but much, much cheaper. In fact, it is just very difficult to distinguish it from a real diamond if you are not an expert. It is a cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. It is a very hard synthetic material, optically perfect and usually colorless, although it can be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with natural zircon, a stone composed of zirconium silicate, often blue in color. Cubic zirconia is sometimes mistakenly called “cubic zirconium”. Commercial production began in 1976. Its main competitor as a laboratory-created gem is synthetic moissanite.

Cubic zirconia
Cubic zirconia

The silver cause allergies and skin turns green.

FALSE The color is not caused by an allergy is a reaction to the metals used in jewelry and it is often fused with silver, especially when the skin sweats. In short, it indicates that silver is not pure. It is the copper and silver often result in a green halo on the skin. Sterling silver, for example, is 7.5 percent of an alloy with copper. The most common stains left by Sterling Silver Jewelry, in any case, are black and not green. Some sterling silver jewelry are coated with products that help them to maintain the patina, but the coatings may fade over time.

Bracciali in argento a maglia geometrica con charm
Geometric mesh silver bracelets with Pandora charms

The number 925 indicates that the jewelry is real silver.

TRUE In the inner part of a jewel, engraving or stamping the number 925 indicates that the material is, in fact 925, the most common alloy. Of course, the warranty covers: nothing prevents that was affixed to a false jewel, but usually not the case for silver.

In questo orecchino di Giovanni Raspini è ben visibile la punzonatura con il numero 925
In this earring by Giovanni Raspini the hallmark with the number 925 is clearly visible

The Chinese store near your house has rings of jade at a very good price. Can I trust you? They told me that the real jade is cold.

TRUE The temperature is not sufficient proof, but it gives an indication: the jade is poorly conductive. Place it in a sensitive part, for example on the face, it is easy to feel a sensation of cold. Another easy tip is to try to carve the stone with the nail: the true jade is very tough and not show a scratch. The same test can be conducted with a very hot object: the real jade will not show signs of the contact. Finally, authentic jade usually has small imperfections, which are common in nature. A perfect stone should you be born a suspect. In any case, real jade is very expensive.

Anello Palloncino con giada
Palloncino Ring with green jade by Vhernier

Diamonds or cubic zirconia?

Buy a jewel with cubic zirconia, that is, with a synthetic stone that looks like a diamond? Here’s what you need to know about cubic zirconia which is actually … ♦ ︎

Diamonds or cubic zirconia? Those who cannot afford the most loved precious stones are often satisfied with their imitation: cubic zirconia, which is found on jewels that are cheap and shine just the same. But many have asked us to know more: what are the stones called cubic zirconia really? Here’s what you need to know about cubic zirconia, a widely used stone, for example by Pandora and many other jewelry brands with low prices. With a premise: these stones are often sold as zircons. But it is a different stone. Attention: cubic zirconias are also different from diamonds grown or created in the laboratory, which have a chemical structure completely the same as that of natural diamonds. Synthetic or laboratory diamonds cost less than natural diamonds, but much more than a cubic zirconia crystal.
Read also: Cubic zirconia or zircons? Here’s what to choose
Cubic zirconia is often referred to by the initials CZ. If you read CZ in the description of a jewel, then know that it is a synthetic material.

Pandora, charm oro giallo 14 carati con zirconia cubica
Pandora, 14K Yellow Gold Cubic Zirconia Charm

What is it

Cubic zirconia is obtained in the laboratory, it is not a natural stone. But it looks a lot like a diamond. On the contrary, those who are not experts will certainly confuse it as a diamond: it has the same appearance, it is cut simily. Not only that: in addition to the classic colorless appearance, it can also be colored and resemble fancy yellow or blue diamonds. Of course, if you then try to sell a cubic zirconia you will not receive much. Indeed, probably no jeweler will buy a ring with a cubic zirconia mounted.
Cubic zirconia was born in 1976 as a low-cost synthetic diamond. It is obtained by dissolving together a chemical element, zirconium, with zirconium dioxide powder and heating everything at a very high temperature. Since it is a synthetic stone, cubic zirconia is perfect: it does not have the inclusions or defects that can be found on a natural stone. Among other things, the CZ is almost as hard as a diamond: on the hardness scale of Mohs is to 8.5, while a brilliant is the most hard element of all and reaches 10.
How to distinguish a diamond from a cubic zirconia?

Bracciale in galvanica black gun con cubic zirconia
Pianegonda, bracelet in black gun galvanic with cubic zirconia

It is not easy for your eye, and even for a jeweler, who, however, carefully examining the stone with a microscope can identify whether it is synthetic or natural.
If you want to know if the ring that someone gave to you, is with diamond or a cubic zirconia you must necessarily subject the stone to some technical tests.
For example, diamonds are heat conductors, while zirconium oxide is an insulator. In theory, in sum, a diamond heats up before a zirconia. In practice, it takes special tools to ascertain it. Another aspect: hardness. To determine if it reaches 10 or stops at 8.5 without ruining the stone, also in this case it need laboratory instruments. A spectrometer also checks the density of the stone: cubic zirconia is 1.7 times denser than a diamond. Another aspect: the index of refraction: the diamond crossed by a light ray has an index of 2.42 with respect to zirconia, which stops at 2.15-2.18. Then there are other aspects, such as dispersion and color. Cubic zirconia, paradoxically, is almost always more perfect than a diamond. The natural ones on the market, with the exception of exceptions, have a classification lower than the maximum level.
Read also: Diamonds: 4 rules to avoid scams
The price
Cubic zirconia are synthetic stones with a much lower price than a diamond. But, as for natural stones, their cost depends on weight, that is carats. Moreover, not all cubic zirconia are equal: there are some that are better and, therefore, cost more. Finally, do not confuse cubic zirconia, or zircons, with diamonds created in the laboratory, which are much more expensive and almost indistinguishable from natural stones. The real zircons, however, the ones you see in the image below.

Autentici zirconi naturali. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Authentic natural zircons. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con zirconia cubica o cubic zirconia, spesso proposti semplicemente (e spesso ingannevolmente) come zirconi
Earrings with cubic zirconia or cubic zirconia, often proposed simply (and often deceptively) as zircons
Rebecca, Elizabeth linea Elegance anello in bronzo placcato giallo e zirconia cubica
Rebecca, Elizabeth Elegance line ring in yellow plated bronze and cubic zirconia
Yvone Christa, anello in argento placcato in oro 22 carati con una zirconia cubica
Yvone Christa, 22K gold plated silver ring with a pink cubic zirconia
Anelli della collezione Radiant Bloom, in lega metallica rosa e zirconia cubica
Pandora, rings from the Radiant Bloom collection, in pink metal alloy and cubic zirconia
Pandora, anelli in argento con zirconia cubica verde
Pandora, silver rings with green cubic zirconia

Emerald success for Crieri

Green is in fashion: it is synonymous with environment, nature, hope. But also of emeralds which, in truth, have never gone out of fashion. As the story of Crieri can testify, a jewelry brand made in Valenza (Italy) which, among its finest collections, has one dedicated to the green stone par excellence. The Bogotà collection, as its name indicates, is dedicated to Colombian emeralds. Stones that, according to the company, were at the center of the first trip to the Colombian capital of the company founder, Alessandro Saracino, in 1996. And in the historic district, where Colombian emerald dealers meet every day to buy and sell gemme, in 2005 by Alessandro Saracino he opened the first office.

Anello con smeraldo di 6,5 carati e diamanti per 2,5 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 6.5 carats of emerald and 2.5 carats of diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The result is, in fact, the Bogotà collection, which turns on the lights on the transparencies, reflections and mysteries of the emerald (all the stones are certified by the gemmolgo Pio Visconti and the Swiss C. Dunaigre), mounted on white gold and surrounded by diamonds. A classic line, which brings together a series of classic high-end jewels, offered in a price range ranging from 5,000 to 300,000 euros.

Anello com smeraldo e diamanti taglio trilliant
Ring with emerald and trilliant cut diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo colombiano
Ring in white gold, diamonds, Colombian emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald from the Bogotà collection
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Collier in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Earrings in white gold, diamonds, emerald

Diamonds protagonists on television. For the robbery of the century

For once, or rather for eight times, diamonds will be able to be admired on a screen and not in jewelry. They, the most precious stones, are the protagonists of a new television drama on Amazon’s Prime Video. Only it’s not about jewels, but about the largest theft of diamonds and precious stones, for 100 million dollars, which occurred on February 15, 2003. And which now becomes a fascinating spectacle. In Antwerp, that night, a gang of Italian thieves, led by Leonardo Notarbartolo, who will be played by Italian actor Kim Rossi Stuart, ransacked the underground vault of the Antwerp Diamond Centre.

Carlotta Antonelli, Leonardo Lidi, Kim Rossi Stuart
Carlotta Antonelli, Leonardo Lidi, Kim Rossi Stuart

The thieves stole mainly diamonds, but also cash and jewels in one of the most incredible criminal exploits, with a movie-like plot. Here it is, in fact. The television series is called Everybody Loves Diamonds, and describes step by step the planning and execution of the robbery, which eluded one of the places with the most stringent security measures in the world. The cast is largely Italian: Anna Foglietta, Gian Marco Tognazzi, Carlotta Antonelli and Leonardo Lidi, with English actors Rupert Everett and Malcolm McDowell. Director Gianluca Maria Tavarelli. And for once, Italians’ aptitude for jewelery will not be associated with artisanal skills.

Diamanti in vendita ad Anversa
Diamonds for sale in Antwerp

Anversa: valutazione di un diamante
Antwerp: evaluation of a diamond

The A.Link’s diamonds

The American Maison A. Link, specialized in the most loved stone by women: diamonds ♦

Diamonds, diamonds, diamonds: some people love jewels only if they revolve around the most popular gemstone. And this is the story of A.Link, a New York company that specializes in diamond jewelry. Does just that since 1904. It was founded by Adolph Link, jeweler from Vienna who emigrated to the US, which has brought the taste loved by the wealthy Europeans of the Belle Epoque in a nation that was growing rapidly. More than a century later, the company is still family owned, managed by Jeffrey Link and Douglas Sills in New York.

Collana di diamanti di A.Link
Diamond Necklace by A.Link

Passed the mark of 110 years, celebrated in 2014 with a Jck prize to a ring, You and Me, continues to propose his recipe that seems to have an eternal success: diamonds, diamonds and more diamonds, but with certificates of origin and sustainable production. Adolph Link, it seems, was the first to study and sample the diamonds to get uniform quality of the stones. In this way the jewels have created a homogeneity and, of course, a more certain value. The company also boasts a special ability in the choice of the cut. In short, if you like diamonds, by A.Link you find to the full.

Bracciale tennis in oro rosa e diamanti
Tennis bracelet in rose gold and diamonds
Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamond stud earrings
Pendente Eclipse
Eclipse pendant
Set con diamanti baguette, montatura in platino. Questo anello ha vinto il premio del 2014 JCK Jewelers nella categoria Platinum per vendita al dettaglio meno di 10.000 dollari nei Jck Awards 2014
Set with baguette diamonds, platinum setting. This ring won the 2014 JCK Jewelers award in the Platinum category for retailing under $10,000 in the 2014 Jck Awards
Bracciale di diamanti e platino, per un totale di 10 carati
Diamond and platinum bracelet, totaling 10 carats
Collana per Forevermark, diamanti e oro bianco
Necklace for Forevermark, diamonds and white gold
Bracciale Bubble con fermaglio, oro bianco e diamanti
Bubble bracelet with clasp, white gold and diamonds
Orecchini a forma di goccia, diamanti e oro bianco
Drop-shaped earrings, diamonds and white gold

What are carats?

How many carats is your diamond in? And how many karats is your gold ring instead? For those who are not a jewelry expert or do not know the basic rules of the world of jewelry, the carats are a big mess. The carats that are the unit of measurement needed for precious stones and pearls, in fact, are a completely different thing from the karats that refer to gold. Did you know? In English, everything is easier: the carats that measure diamonds start with the letter C while those for gold start with the K. In other languages, however, it is written the same way and everything is more complicated.

This is why we must be careful not to confuse the different concepts: the carats of diamonds (or rubies, emeralds, sapphires, etc.) with the karats that are related to gold. Here’s how to distinguish.

Diamante a cuore di Recarlo
Diamond in the heart of Recarlo

The carats of the stones

The carat (the abbreviation is ct) is a unit that indicates the mass of a stone or pearl. Carats are used for convenience, after in past each country regulated itself differently for centuries. For those who traded in diamonds or other stones it was therefore difficult to work. In Florence, for example, the basic unit of measurement was equivalent to 197.2 milligrams, while in London to 205.49. After much discussion, in the end, in 1907 it was decided to adopt 200 milligrams as a carat measure. A single carat, therefore, equals one fifth of 1 gram.

Anello con diamante bianco ovale da 31,82 carati
31.82 carat oval white diamond ring

Now you know exactly how much the diamond on your finger weighs: divide the number of carats by five and you will have the weight in grams. Or, more easily, in milligrams, since it is not common to wear a diamond that weighs 5 carats (and therefore 1 gram). for this reason the carat is divisible into 100 points of 2 milligrams.

Anello di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma bombata con diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels rounded shape ring with diamonds

By the way, why is the carat called so? The origin seems to be linked to carob seeds. The word carat derives from the Arabic qīrāṭ قيراط, which however is derived from the Greek kerátion κεράτιον, which indicates carob seeds. And these seeds were used to weigh jewels, thanks to their always regular shape. Then the term carat was used in Italy and later in the rest of the world. The use of the carat unit of measurement to weigh diamonds dates back to 1570.

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)
Selection of diamonds in the Tiffany laboratory in Antwerp

The karats of gold

The carats of diamonds, precious stones and pearls refer to weight. The karats of gold, on the other hand, indicate the percentage of yellow metal present in a jewel, its fineness. The term karat has prevailed among the many systems adopted in the past and, in particular, on the measurement of pounds and ounces, which are still used for the weight of gold, platinum or silver. So why this confusion? Simple: the ancient origin of the word is the same, i.e. the carats used to measure precious materials.

Anello a fascia in oro 22 carati
Band ring in 22 carat gold

In the case of the karats that refer to gold, however, they indicate the thousandths of quantities of gold (or other precious metals) contained in an alloy. The maximum, as regards gold, is 24 karats. You will never find gold of 25 or more carats. The 24 karats indicate that the gold is 100% pure. The 24 karats are the basis for calculating the rest (always for gold). The 18-karat jewels, therefore, are 75% gold. It is calculated as follows: 18: 24 = 0.75. Similarly, a jewel with 14% gold means that it contains slightly more than half of gold, the rest are other metals (14: 24 = 0.58).

In some cases, the karats of gold can also be indicated with the number that refers to the percentage (the result of the arithmetic division). For example, 18-karat gold can also be indicated with the initials 750, 14-karat gold with 583 and so on. Again, if you read the number 375 in a jewel, know that it equals 9 karats.

The karats are also used for silver. The silver sterling, for example, contains 92.5% of silver and 7.5% of other metals, generally copper. It is generally referred to as 925 silver.

Anello Wave Stacking in oro 24 carati
Menē, Wave Stacking ring in 24 carat gold
Anello Bahia in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bahia ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati
14K rose gold ring
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati e diamante ice
Ring in 9 carat rose gold and ice diamond
Anello in argento satinato e lucido
Satin and polished 925 silver ring

Diamonds are called Bloch

Little is known about the Bloch family of Antwerp. Yet from half century Bloch was one of the most popular jewelers in Belgium, but with a wide range of export market too. It is no coincidence that Antwerp is the European capital of diamonds and the Bloch family with diamonds has been uncomfortable for many decades. The company is led by the chief executive officer, Leslie Bloch, while managing director is Mickey Bloch. In short, everything in the family in an atmosphere of total discretion. And the headquarters, in Vestingstraat 59, in the city’s diamond district, is also completely anonymous.

Orecchini a cerchio con diamanti
Hoop earrings with diamonds

The high-end jewelry collections, designed and made in Antwerp, which summarize the style of jewelry developed in the Flemish city, have a precise image. The processing exclusively with highly qualified craftsmen and with high quality stones, with colorless or fancy diamonds, is in the most classic and traditional style possible. Classic solitaire, even more classic rings with precious stones, endless strap, button earrings, etc. Quality is not lacking, there is no lack of extravagant ideas.

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri blu
Earrings with diamonds and blue sapphires
Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamond stud earrings
Anello infinity in oro giallo e diamanti
Infinity ring in yellow gold and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco con diamanti, zaffiro rosa e smeraldo
White gold ring with diamonds, pink sapphire and emerald

Ondyn’s aquatic philosophy

Ondyn’s jewels, winner of the Couture Design Awards in the Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 Retail category.

Ondyn, the creature of New Yorker Tara Maria Famiglietti, has distant origins. Tara’s father created bespoke suits and shoes for Eric Clapton, Mick Jagger, John Lennon and Jimmy Hendrix. Her mother and aunt owned the Boutique Menage at Trois on Madison Avenue, New York, and designed dresses for Diana Ross, Bianca Jagger, Barbara Streisand and Diane von Furstenberg. She, the founder of Ondyn, started making jewelry at the age of twenty. Her contemporary jewelry Maison uses diamonds and 14 or 18 carat gold, accompanied by diamonds set to form long threads that are used for necklaces, rings or earrings.

Anello con sirena in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Siren ring in 14K gold and diamonds

Tara graduated with a degree in jewelry design from New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, she has collaborated with some of the big names in the fashion industry to create pieces that have been sold in exclusive boutiques and department stores around the world. Alongside her jewels, she also cultivates another passion: the sea. For a while, the designer lived on a sailboat, traveling across the French Riviera, the Amalfi Coast, the Balearic Islands, the African Coast and the Caribbean. And it is no coincidence that her brand is called Ondyn (a name that resembles the Italian word onda, wave). And, after all, New York is also a seaside city.

Anello Avalon in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Avalon ring in 14K gold and diamonds
Bracciale Magisterial in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Magisterial bracelet in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini Eminence in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Eminence earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini con frange in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Fringed earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Orecchini Dalliance in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Dalliance earrings in 14K gold and diamonds
Collana Zen in oro 14 carati e diamanti
Collana Zen in 14 carat gold and diamond

Graff in yellow in Paris

Sunrise: A Celebration of Graff Yellow Diamonds. Those who love yellow diamonds already know which door to knock on. But it is not that of the London flagship store, where Graff is based, one of the most famous brands for its range of diamond jewellery, also in the yellow version. The British jeweler has instead chosen the Paris store in Rue Saint-Honoré to exhibit his collection of yellow diamonds in a short exhibition. Alongside historical pieces, Graff also proposed a novelty: an exceptional high jewelery necklace.

Sunrise Graff Yellow Diamond Necklace
Sunrise Graff Yellow Diamond Necklace

It is a necklace that is worth a seven-figure and is composed of a 30-carat fancy intense yellow pear-shaped diamond, extremely rare, accompanied by another 138 carats of yellow and white diamonds. In addition to being an extremely precious jewel, the necklace is also the result of a long process. Each element has been created with careful craftsmanship with the aim of bringing out the central stone. Graff is a Maison famous for its yellow diamonds, such as the one called Stella di Bombay, purchased in 1974, a historic yellow stone cut and polished by Graff using innovative techniques for the time. Or Delaire Sunrise, a 118.08-carat diamond, or the Golden Empress, a 132.55-carat honey-colored diamond.

Collana composta da un diamante a forma di pera giallo intenso fancy da 30 carati, estremamente raro, accompagnato da altri 138 carati di diamanti gialli e bianchi
Necklace composed of an extremely rare 30-carat fancy deep yellow pear-shaped diamond accompanied by another 138 carats of yellow and white diamonds
La lavorazione del ciondolo della collana
The making of the pendant of the necklace
Orecchini Sunrise Graff Yellow
Sunrise Graff Yellow Earrings
Lavorazione della collana di Graff
Processing of the Graff necklace

More and more artificial diamonds for De Beers

If the diamond giant, the one who coined the claim “a diamond is forever” chooses to compete with itself, there is something strange. De Beers five years ago surprisingly launched the synthetic diamond brand Lightbox. Now the company, which is controlled by the Anglo American mining group, is relaunching. Basically, the brand most famous for its diamonds, since it extracts almost 30% of global production from the earth, will push on diamonds created in the laboratory, which cost less.

Punto luce di Lightbox
Lightbox necklace

At the basis of the choice is the declining price of natural diamonds. Although many believe that the gems most desired by women are a safe investment, which over time increases in value, the price of diamonds has fallen by about 20% from the highs of February 2022. Meanwhile, India and China produce an ever more synthetic diamonds, created in the laboratory, at ever lower prices. Fierce competition. For the uninitiated, diamonds produced in the laboratory are chemically indistinguishable from natural ones, even if an accurate analysis can determine the artificial origin of the gems. With the naked eye, however, no one is able to perceive the difference.

La nuova miniera: l'impianto di produzione in Oregon di diamanti artificiali
Lightbox (De Beers) Man-Made Diamond Oregon Manufacturing Facility

Precisely for this reason the total share of synthetic diamonds in a few years has gone from about 2% to almost 10% of the total according to some experts. And, at the same time, their price has dropped by 60%. But that’s not all, because according to some estimates, perhaps optimistic, if you look at the jewelry sector (i.e. those diamonds that are not used for industry) the sales of rings, earrings or necklaces with artificial gems would be close to 50% . The percentage probably refers to the diamond jewelery segment in the specific American market and not to the whole. But although it is difficult to understand how these estimates correspond to reality, everyone agrees that the sales of laboratory diamond jewelry is on the rise. And De Beers’ moves seem only an acknowledgment of reality. Even on the industrial front, things are not better: the Global Rough Diamond Price Index, relating to rough stones, is down by 18% compared to the all-time high it had reached in February 2022.

Al Cook, Ceo De Beers
Al Cook, Ceo De Beers

De Beers has therefore created a line of premium products, Finest, with laboratory diamonds certified in the same way as natural ones. In fact, even artificial diamonds can be of different quality. The certification is based on the same criteria used for natural diamonds, with the classic 4Cs. A further step by De Beers is the promotion with marketing actions of engagement rings with solitaire diamonds created in the laboratory, for now in the USA. Almost a blasphemy for those who love natural diamonds, created in the depths of the earth millions of years ago. And to think that De Beers at the debut of the Lightbox brand had underlined the unbridgeable differences between natural and artificial diamonds.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

The War of the Diamonds

So far the embargo on Russian diamonds hasn’t worked too well. In the future, however, things could change and the price of the gems most loved by women would inevitably become higher. The war in Ukraine unleashed by Russia had already provoked, in 2022, the announcement of an embargo against the exports of Alrosa, the Russian state diamond giant. But, in fact, precious stones continued to arrive in the West too, due to the difficulty of tracing the gems. In fact, rough diamonds are sold in countries such as India or Thailand, which do not adhere to the stop decided by Western countries on Russian stones. Europe alone in 2022 imported Russian diamonds for 1.4 billion euros. A considerable figure, albeit down from 1.8 billion in 2021.

Expertise in un laboratorio Tiffany
Expertise by Tiffany

Something could change after the G7, the meeting of the major industrialized countries, if China is not taken into account. In Japan, the heads of state of the G7 countries have decided to tighten controls more to reduce one of the sources of income of the Russian state. And Great Britain has announced that it will immediately leave Russian diamonds outside the borders, together with other metals that are exported from Moscow. Russia is now the world’s largest producer of diamonds. The problem, however, is how to control the stone market, which largely passes through channels that are difficult to monitor.

Anversa: acquisti di un buyer
Antwerp, buyer

Where the traces disappear

The biggest obstacle comes from the steps related to processing. While the extracted diamonds are easily controlled, also thanks to the Kimberley Process, a path that certifies the origin of the gems, precisely to prevent them from financing warring countries or factions, the problem comes later. Cutting and polishing rough stones can make traces of provenance disappear. Furthermore, the idea of a real embargo opposes those countries, such as Israel or Belgium, which are the major centers where diamonds are cut.

Diamanti taglio brillante
Brilliant cut diamonds. Copyright: jewels.com

On the other hand, those who have everything to gain from a stop at Alrosa are the producers of gems created in the laboratory, who can benefit from an inevitable increase in the price of natural diamonds. Synthetic diamonds, which are chemically the same as those extracted in mines, already cost much less than natural ones. If the price gap widened further, the advantage would be greater.

Lavorazione dei diamanti alla Dimexon, India
Diamond Processing at Dimexon, India
Esame di diamanti ad Anversa
Diamond examination in Antwerp

The Bulgari Laguna Blu sold at Sotheby’s for 25 million

A $25 million blue diamond. This is what an anonymous buyer paid over the phone for the Bulgari Laguna Blu, auctioned by Sotheby’s in Geneva. The sale of Magnificent Jewels totaled $85 million, the highest value since May 2018 at the Geneva Jewelery Sales. The 11.16-carat fancy-vivid blue diamond is now the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel and the most valuable Bulgari gem ever offered for sale.

Bulgari Laguna Blu, 11,16 ct
Bulgari Laguna Blu, Fancy Vivid, 11,16 ct

Created in 1970 by Bulgari as a ring, when Bulgari was emerging as the most influential and innovative Italian high jewelery house, diamond is a rarity: it is an 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid blue, among the rarest gems in the world, it is a Bulgari signed jewel, and is unmodified, meaning that its current cut, produced in 1970, could be further enhanced by modern cutting methods to unleash its full potential as a gem.
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas

It has been a privilege to witness the glamorous and exciting journey of the Bulgari Blue Lagoon over the past few months, knowing it was first created in 1970, up until its most recent appearance at the Met Gala where it dazzled on the red carpet, set in a Bulgari custom made necklace worn by Priyanka Chopra Jones. So, it is a special moment to see the journey of this extraordinary gem take yet another new turn, this evening in our auction room, into the hands of its first new owner in over 50 years. The Blue Lagoon sale surpasses the outstanding performance of our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale which saw exceptional colored gemstones, particularly emeralds and yellow diamonds, surpass their high estimates, so spectacularly. There is no doubt that the Fine jewelry of the highest quality can still fetch sky-high prices.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring
Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring

Sotheby’s Geneva’s auction saw over half (53.4%) of all lots sold above the high estimate and virtually all lots sold fetched prices within or above the estimates (97%).

The Bulgari Laguna Blu was auctioned last in the second session of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, following a series of spectacular sales of designer jewelery and exceptional gemstones. After a four-minute bidding battle between three telephone bidders and one bidder in the room, he finally found a buyer over the phone.

Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace
Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace

Colored gemstones, and especially colored designer jewelry, had a stellar night with nearly a quarter of all lots selling above already high estimates, led by sales of yellow ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond jewelry and rose. For example, a Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Diamond ring was sold for $11.7 million, purchased by Diacore. The same company was awarded another Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring, for 1.3 million.
Sapphire and diamond pendant
Sapphire and diamond pendant

Natural pearl and diamond necklace
Natural pearl and diamond necklace

6 things to know about colored diamonds

The colored diamonds, or fancy, are the stars of international auctions. That’s why if you have a jewel with a big colored diamond you’re probably very rich ♦

Colored diamonds, or fancy, are the pièce de résistance of international auctions, reach very high estimates and often exceed them. Of course, these are remarkable material for hue, purity and weight, but all colored diamonds are quite unique, even when it comes to one carat stones: the inside impurities, during the process composition, color the stone in different ways (for the green is due to radiation, the blue is given by boron, yellow and orange from nitrogen molecules which absorb the blue light).

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond di 13,15 carati
Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond, 13,15 ct

Certification is a valuable tool, as it lists all of those criteria, the 4 C, which determine the value. A kind of basic alphabet of which we have already spoken, which in the case of colored gemstones has different meanings generated by other factors. We must take into account that diamonds may have more colors together: some gems are pure, others have a secondary color, which gives them a shade. A fancy greenish yellow diamond will be a yellow stone with a green hue, while a light yellow-green diamond will have as a slight yellow tint. Can be confusing, but the secondary color comes before the primary.

Diverse sfumature di diamanti
Fancy diamonds

1 The first factor R. Rarity: only 1 in 10 000 is a colored stone. For their part, fancy diamonds are divided into three groups: browns, grays and yellows are relatively more common. The second group includes those with a more vivid yellow and orange shades. In the third, however, are those that have as their primary color orange, green, purple, pink and blue: they are extremely rare. So, although the secondary color it lower the value, a pure brown diamond will always cheaper than a pink diamond with a light brown tone. Finally, there are the red diamonds, but is a separate category, that even many jewelers have never seen.

Il diamante rosso Moussaieff
Moussaieff red diamond

2 The fifth C. The fluorescence, ie the color reaction of the stone of ultraviolet radiation, is generally regarded as a defect, and therefore affects the price. There are, however, exceptions: on the colorless stones from the H up (the scale of whites goes from D to Z, almost yellow) fluorescence becomes an advantage because makes the stones whiter. In colored ones it is something irrelevant a part from yellow diamonds, which must be nil or slight.

De Beers, bracciale della linea Vulcan, con diamanti bianchi e fancy
De Beers, bracelet from the Vulcan line, with white and fancy diamonds

3 Carat weight steps. In general, the price of a diamond 1 carat is 25% higher than the value adopted for a stone of 0.90 carats of the same category. The difference increases with the increase of the quality and even reaches 70% with a D Flawless stone. In colored gemstones it gets further complicated: for example, an intense pink diamond from 0.50 carat can cost six times more than an equivalent from 0:20 carat, because its price per carat is much higher and the carat weight is the same 2.5 times higher. While in the range of lower color, such as pale yellow, the difference does not exceed 30%. So, everything depends on the intensity of the color.

Il diamante rosa Pink Star
The Pink Star pink diamond

4 Inclusions. A word that discourages the choice of a stone, despite having a beautiful color. According to experts, the best value is in the classification of clarity VS2. But this applies to colorless stones. Instead, in the case of colored diamonds SI1 and SI2, the inclusions are often invisible to the naked eye. Then, why pay more when the overall aesthetic effect is not compromised?

Collana con diamanti fancy
Necklace with fancy brown diamonds

5 Cut. In specimens colorless serves to achieve maximum brilliance. Instead, in the case of diamonds fancy cut serves to get the most of the color, to exalt. An example: princess and round cut, because of the way they reflect light, attenuate the color, while the cushion or oval cut enhances the tonality. That’ why, the first cost much more than the latter, because they are rarer. And then the most sought after.

Diamante Fancy Vivid Pinkish Purple VS1, taglio rettangolare, 2 carati
Fancy Vivid Pinkish Purple VS1 diamond, rectangular cut, 2 carats

6 Setting. Even a less vibrant color can enhance with the set. For example, a pale yellow diamond with the griffes in yellow gold, will become more intense. The same applies to the brown and pink diamonds with the rose gold.

Fancy Vivid Bluish Green SI1 Rectangular-Shaped Diamond
Fancy Vivid Bluish Green SI1 Rectangular-Shaped Diamond
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