diamonds

How to recognize a diamond created in the laboratory

Lab-created diamonds, or synthetic diamonds, are increasingly used: they cost less than natural gems and are virtually indistinguishable to the naked eye. However, they have less value than those extracted from the earth and, at the time of a hypothetical sale, they will have a much lower price. But is it possible to recognize if a diamond is natural or is it artificial, created in a laboratory? It’s not easy, but it can be done. If you want to know how lab diamonds are created you can read this article first.

Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio ovali e taglio smeraldo
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio ovali e taglio smeraldo

There are several ways to tell if a diamond was created in a lab. Here are some:

1. Check the certification of the diamond
A lab-created diamond typically comes with a certification from the lab where it was created. The certification should state that the diamond is “lab grown” or is “synthetic”. The certificate will also provide information about the quality of the diamond, including carat weight, color, clarity and cut. It is important to ensure that the certificate is from a laboratory reputable and that matches the diamond you are buying.A reputable jeweler should be able to provide you with all the necessary paperwork.

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera
Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera, pietra creata in laboratorio

2. Examine the diamond for inclusions
Inclusions are tiny blemishes within a diamond that can affect its appearance and value. Natural diamonds often have inclusions scattered throughout the diamond, while lab-created ones may have fewer inclusions, which are typically concentrated in a specific area. However, some lab-created diamonds may contain inclusions not found in natural diamonds. A qualified gemologist will be able to examine the diamond under a microscope and identify any inclusions which could indicate whether the diamond is lab created or natural.
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio di De Beers

3. Test the electrical conductivity of the diamond
Diamonds are excellent electrical insulators, but some lab-created diamonds are created using a process called chemical vapor deposition (CVD), which can lead to diamonds with high electrical conductivity. A diamond tester is a device that can detect whether a diamond is a natural or lab-created diamond by measuring its electrical conductivity. This method is extremely accurate and diamond testers are commonly used in the jewelry industry to verify the authenticity of diamonds.
Anello trilogy in oro bianco con diamanti cresciuti in laboratorio
Anello trilogy in oro bianco con diamanti cresciuti in laboratorio

4. Look at the color
Natural diamonds often have slight color variations, while lab-created diamonds are typically more uniform in color. This is because lab-created diamonds can be created with specific colors, such as pink or blue, which are rare in natural diamonds. If a diamond appears too perfect in color, it may be lab created. However, it’s important to note that some lab-created diamonds can also have slight variations in color, so this method alone isn’t always reliable.
Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici
Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici

In summary, there are several ways to tell if a diamond was created in a lab, including verifying the diamond’s certification, examining its inclusions, testing its electrical conductivity, and looking for color variations. However, it is important to note that lab created diamonds are not fake or inferior to natural diamonds, but something else. Whether you choose a natural or lab-created diamond, it is important to purchase a piece of jewelry from a reputable jeweler and verify the authenticity of the diamond before making a purchase.

Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox
Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox

All shades of P Hirani




The best-known Indian company specializing in diamonds, as well as high-end jewels, is P Hirani. Established in 1981 in Mumbai, P Hirani is a family-run business now owned by Jigar Hirani, while Darshit Hirani is the director. Specifying that the Indian company deals with trading diamonds, however, is not enough. It must be added that they are mostly special diamonds, the colored ones, the most sought after. The so-called fancy diamonds are the house specialty. Precisely this ability to procure and resell loose diamonds or mounted on prestigious jewels has translated into P Hirani’s key to success.

Anello con diamante giallo di oltre 6 carati e diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con diamante giallo di oltre 6 carati e diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The company is now present in India, but also in Hong Kong and Dubai, also thanks to the wide range of gems available, with every color gradation and size of colored diamonds. And it’s always about gems over 1 carat, the most precious. The seriousness of the company also allows it to guarantee the authenticity of the natural color of each stone.
Alta gioielleria P Hirani con diamanti di diverse sfumature
Alta gioielleria P Hirani con diamanti di diverse sfumature

Anello con diamanti giallo, rosa e bianchi
Anello con diamanti giallo, rosa e bianchi
Anello con diamanti rosa e bianchi taglio a cuore
Anello con diamanti rosa e bianchi taglio a cuore
Anello con raro diamante blu, diamanti rosa e bianchi
Anello con raro diamante blu, diamanti rosa e bianchi
Orecchini con diamanti rosa, gialli e bianchi
Orecchini con diamanti rosa, gialli e bianchi







The diamond jewels worn by Rihanna




Rihanna’s return to the stage in a live performance after six years, on the occasion of Super Bowl LVII, was widely commented, starting from her surprise at her pregnancy. For the 13-minute show, the singer wore three pieces designed to measure by Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. The red sneakers are the result of Maison Margiela’s collaboration with sports shoe brand Salomon.

Rihanna con tre mono orecchini di diamanti by Messika
Rihanna con tre mono orecchini di diamanti by Messika

Maxi down jacket with integrated gloves is instead by Alaïa, the brand founded by the late Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaïa. However, the song sung at the end, Diamonds, was the most apt: the Barbadian singer showed up with a series of diamond-based jewels by the Parisian maison Messika. On stage in Arizona, in front of about 190 million spectators, Rihanna chose some of Messika’s high jewelry earrings: a single Illusionnistes mono earring broken into three parts, Equilibristes clips, another Magnetic Love mono earring, jewels from the Diamond Equalizer collection , diamond clip from the Illusionistes line. The right choice for a brilliant performance.

Rihanna sul palco del superbowl 2023 con orecchino di Messika
Rihanna sul palco del superbowl 2023 con orecchino Magnetic Love di Messika
Rihanna indossa un unico mono orecchino Illusionnistes scomposto in tre parti
Rihanna indossa un unico mono orecchino Illusionnistes scomposto in tre parti
Rihanna con gli orecchini di diamanti by Messika
Rihanna con gli orecchini di diamanti by Messika
Rihanna nella conferenza stampa che ha preceduto l'esibizione per il superbowl
Rihanna nella conferenza stampa che ha preceduto l’esibizione per il superbowl







Henrich & Denzel, platinum power




Henrich & Denzel, German jewelers specializing in platinum ♦ ︎
Most of the quality jewels are made with gold. And the most common couple is that with diamonds. But not all of them follow this path: in 1984, Gunter Henrich and Roland Denzel founded Radolfzell on the German side of Lake Constance, a jewelery company that puts everything on platinum, with few exceptions. An unusual move, since platinum has so many good qualities, but it costs more gold. But the ability to work a noble metal in impeccable fashion and a high level of specialization, have earned Henrich and Denzel a well-deserved reputation for jewelery with a solid quality. So much so that in June 2017 they won the Couture Design Award in Las Vegas for the jewelry category with platinum.

Fede nuziale in oro rosa e platino
Fede nuziale in oro rosa e platino

Their style is very strict, inspired by Nordic design, at the Bauhaus school. Clean lines, simple, never trivial. The platinum used is the one marked by platinum numbers 950 and 999, but sometimes used in the company of gold 24k, 22k and 18k. Diamonds are often used on pavement, few colored stones. The diamonds, specify the Maison, are cut so they can give a high reflection, allowing stones to capture and reflect light at a rate of up to 96% even in twilight. A brilliant idea, in short. Alessia Mongrando

 

Collana con parre di platino
Collana con parre di platino

Bracciale Vela in platino e pavé di diamanti
Bracciale Vela in platino e pavé di diamanti
Solitario in platino e diamante
Solitario in platino e diamante
Anello in platino e diamanti
Anello in platino e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con diamante taglio radiant
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con diamante taglio radiant

Anello in oro e platino con diamante
Anello in oro e platino con diamante

Anello in platino e diamanti
Anello in platino e diamanti







Winter vibes for Messika




Vibes, i.e. vibrations, the emotional state of a person or the atmosphere of a place that are perceived. And, in case any emotion is related to a jewel with diamonds, here is the D-Vibes collection by Messika. The Parisian Maison celebrates winter with this line of jewelry that combines gold with pavé diamonds, with the aim of arousing emotions. The jewels, also enhanced by the images taken by Isabelle Bonjean, include the classic tennis bracelet, but with a new, more modern interpretation. Emerald-cut diamonds and multi-row chains serve to create elegant jewelry.

Gioielli per l'inverno 2022 by Messika
Gioielli per l’inverno 2022 by Messika. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean

I imagined this photoshoot as a dj set, mixing collections like music samples. Suddenly, the sounds began to resonate and bring out a new rhythm, as with these classics from the maison that are continuously renewed.
Valerie Messika

Diamanti per l'inverno 2022 by Messika. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Diamanti per l’inverno 2022 by Messika. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean

The D-Vibes collection, in fact, does not abandon the celebrated style of the brand, which combines a modern and refined design with a variety of diamonds that combine in shape and quantity in different combinations, as in the historic Move collection, which is now reinterpreted with new variations. Like Move Uno, for example, or Imperial Move. Winter also brings new additions to the Divine Enigma collection in white gold and, of course, diamonds.

Gioielli Messika. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Gioielli Messika. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Gioielli Messika indossati. Photo:Isabelle Bonjean
Gioielli Messika indossati. Photo:Isabelle Bonjean
Collezione D-Vibes indossata. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Collezione D-Vibes indossata. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Anello e bracciali Lucky Move Onyx indossati. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Anello e bracciali Lucky Move Onyx indossati. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Move Uno ankle bracelet. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Move Uno ankle bracelet. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Foto: Isabelle Bonjean

Bracciale Divine Enigma indossato. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean
Bracciale Divine Enigma indossato. Foto: Isabelle Bonjean







Are Lab Diamonds Like Teslas?





Is it fair to compare synthetic diamonds to Tesla cars? Is a gem produced by a carbon-containing gas factory really green? And do synthetic diamonds have a sustainability license? These are questions that follow an interview with a promotional flavor by Forbes (find it here) to Anthony Tsang, CEO of The Future Rocks, a new online market for jewels created by various designers, which uses so-called laboratory-grown diamonds, i.e. artificially produced. The company is based in Hong Kong and seeks customers among the youngest, Millennials and Gen-Z, i.e. in their twenties and thirties. According to market research, this age group is the most sensitive to the issue of sustainability.

Anello in oro con diamante di laboratorio disegnato da Courbet
Anello in oro con diamante di laboratorio disegnato da Courbet

Furthermore, as is known, laboratory diamonds are also less expensive than natural ones. But it is the green aspect that is underlined by those who sell them. In reality, the sustainability of man-made gems is only relative. Lab-grown diamonds are produced in two ways: with reactors that use a high-pressure, high-temperature process or with a chemical process that consists of carbon vapor deposition. “We don’t compare with natural diamonds, we just provide different option, the market is big enough,” Tsang said. Okay. But the manager goes further: “Fifteen years ago everyone laughed at Tesla and now Ferrari is also entering the electric vehicle market”.
Anello in oro e diamanti di laboratorio by Matilde
Anello in oro e diamanti di laboratorio by Matilde

This comparison, however, does not seem entirely apt. First of all, electric cars are not green products: they consume a lot of generally non-renewable energy, and the construction of their huge batteries requires excavations and land devastation to extract the so-called rare earths. Furthermore, looking forward these batteries will constitute a huge management problem at the end of their life cycle. In addition to costing more, electric cars also require an infrastructure that has yet to be built to bring the electricity needed for recharging everywhere. This means thousands of kilometers of copper cables, which will cause a huge extraction of ore in addition to the energy consumption necessary to create millions of points needed for recharging. Therefore, Teslas and electric cars in general are not really green products. But the sustainability of electric cars is not the point. Does this hammering marketing on the alleged green aspects of synthetic diamonds make sense? Wouldn’t it be better to just say that factory-created gems cost less and have the same chemical property, though not the allure, as earth-created diamonds?
Orecchini a bottone in oro, smalto e diamanti di laboratorio disegnati da Loev
Orecchini a bottone in oro, smalto e diamanti di laboratorio disegnati da Loev

Immagine della campagna advertising di The Future Rock
Immagine della campagna advertising di The Future Rock

Orecchini a bottone in oro, smalto e diamanti di laboratorio disegnati da Rêver
Orecchini a cerchio in oro e diamanti di laboratorio disegnati da Rêver







Harakh high jewelry




Diamonds and not only in the collections of Harakh, a new high jewelery brand ♦ ︎

There is a new high jewelery brand in America. It’s called Harakh and, to tell the truth, it is new only for the United States, because in Bombay they have known it since 2017. The name is that of its founder, Harakh Mehta, who represents the fourth generation of a family of jewelers. But in India the word Harakh also has the meaning of joy: which is also that of those who can afford to buy a jewel of the Maison, which has prices ranging between 20,000 and 100,000 dollars. Among the latest creations of the Maison there is, for example, a set of 150-carat diamonds, specially created to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Bloomingdales luxury department in New York.

Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti

Diamonds are one of the strong points of Harakh’s jewels, also because the activity of a jeweler comes after that of a gemstone merchant, and also thanks to his studies at the Gemological Institute of America. Use only diamonds classified D, E or F and clarity VS / VVS and IF. Each piece is handmade by the 15 artisans who work with ancient jewelery techniques. But this does not prevent a quality control particularly attentive also to the use and pleasure of wearing rings, bracelets and earrings. As in the Cascade collection, which is made with a blaze of stones. The shapes of the jewels are modern, but in some cases they reflect the traditional Indian figures, such as the elephant or the peacock.

Collana con diamanti bianchi su oro bianco
Collana con diamanti bianchi su oro bianco
Collana con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Collana con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi
Anello Frangipani in oro bianco e rosa, diamanti
Anello Frangipani in oro bianco e rosa, diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Peacock in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Peacock in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Haveli in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti







The challenge of blue diamonds





Color challenges for diamond enthusiasts (and investors). After the record-breaking pink diamonds, a new auction is expected but centered on a different shade, blue. This time it is Sotheby’s to present a group of eight fancy blue diamonds, which have been valued in total over 70 million dollars. Diamonds will be the protagonists of several Magnificent Jewels auctions, this winter and next spring. The name given to these gems, The De Beers Exceptional Blue Collection, indicates their origin: the company specializing in “women-friendly” stones.

Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell'asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby's a Ginevra
Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell’asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby’s a Ginevra

The eight diamonds have different shapes and weights: they include an oval brilliant cut diamond of 1.22 carats, one step cut of 11.29 carats, for a total weight of 32.09 carats between them. Three diamonds will be offered this year: a 5.53-carat fancy blue at auction scheduled in Geneva on November 9, a 3.24-carat diamond and a 2.08-carat diamond in New York on December 7th. De Beers and Diacore paid a total of $ 40.36 million for five rough blue diamonds from the Cullinan mine weighing 85.62 carats in November 2020. In nearly two years, Diacore has cut and polished the five rough stones to create the eight blue diamonds from the collection that Sotheby’s now presents.
The valuation of diamonds of this type is quite difficult. Suffice it to say that the 11.29 has an estimate of between 28 and 50 million dollars.
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan

The De Beers Exceptional Blue Collection
The De Beers Exceptional Blue Collection







The jewels to be shaken by Renee Lewis




The diamond is mobile with the jewels of the American designer Renee Lewis ♦ ︎

Not all designers are the same. The image that is fashionable now is that of a designer who looks a lot like a model (in some cases it was also) that designs very minimal jewelry or, on the contrary, with a wild imagination. Very active on social media, this type of designer is also at home on the social occasions of London, Paris, Milan, New York. There is, however, another type of designer, who is represented by Renee Lewis. Gray hair, 40 years of professional background, large bracelets and wristbands that clink to the wrist: Renee Lewis lives and works in New York. But she has not forgotten Lisbon, a small town in Ohio where she was born and where recently she has restored a period building, turned into a restaurant and bar.

Collana in oro con pendente, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana in oro con pendente, diamanti e zaffiri
In short, a profile quite different from the designers who love the now worn bloggers or (worse) the so-called influencers.
Renee Lewis has been working in Manhattan for decades, making jewelry in platinum or 18k gold, with diamonds and rubies that are reused from vintage and antique jewelry. before becoming a jewelry designer she painted, sculpted and made furniture. The most famous collection is called Shake and uses small free gems that float inside a faceted crystal case. She claims that it is not a habit: “The newly extracted diamonds are often altered through heat treatment or the filling of imperfections with the laser. Their reflections may seem artificial,” she explains. A risk that do not run the diamonds mined decades ago.

Collana in oro bianco con diamanti e ametista
Collana in oro bianco con diamanti e ametista
Collana in oro giallo con granati verdi
Collana in oro giallo con granati verdi
Collana in oro giallo con diamanti bianchi e neri
Collana in oro giallo con diamanti bianchi e neri
Collana in oro giallo con turchesi, acquamarina, opale
Collana in oro giallo con diamanti, turchesi, acquamarina, opale
Collana in oro giallo con diamanti e rubini
Collana in oro giallo con diamanti e rubini

Collana in oro giallo con diamanti e rubini
Collana a cuore in oro giallo con diamanti e rubini







The future of laboratory diamonds




As in sport, two teams took to the field in the world of jewelry. The first holds the record in the standings and does not intend to sell it. The second earns points, but is still far from the top. The two rival teams are those of those who use natural diamonds, created by mother nature millions of years ago, and those who produce them artificially with refined machines. The latter are modestly called lab grown diamonds, that is, grown as if they were zucchini in a greenhouse. The reality is different: synthetic diamonds, which are chemically identical to natural ones, are produced with production plants mostly in China and India which are, among other things, quite energy-intensive. But this is another aspect.

Diamante di laboratorio del peso di 2 carati, venduto da Lightbox per 1850 euro
Diamante di laboratorio del peso di 2 carati, venduto da Lightbox per 1850 euro

It is a fact that with technology it has become easier and cheaper to produce lab grown diamonds. And the question that jewelers are asking themselves, but also many consumers, is whether the sales of these synthetic gems will continue to increase, as has happened in recent years starting from 2018, when the natural diamond producer De Beers also took the field. with the Lightbox brand. Furthermore, a question concerns the natural diamond jewelry market: is it destined to lose market share? These questions are being answered by a specialized analyst, Paul Zimnisky, who has published an analysis reported by the National Jeweler website.
Punto luce di Lightbox
Punto luce con diamante di laboratorio Lightbox

Zimnisky’s analysis is particularly interesting because it looks at the next 10-15 years. The analyst’s first consideration is that, of course, the supply of artificial diamonds is unlimited. Just produce them. And, given the trend, the production of synthetic diamonds should continue to grow to 25 million carats by 2030. A large amount, but much less than natural diamonds, which in 2021 reached 120 million carats. The increase in supply, combined with the often scarce possibility of evaluating synthetic stones, will further lower the price of laboratory diamonds. The analyst gives an example: in mid-2018 a generic 1-carat diamond, G VS1, grown in the laboratory retailed for $ 3,625, compared to $ 6,600 for a natural diamond of the same size and quality. But today, a synthetic diamond of the same size and quality sells for $ 1,615, while the natural equivalent has increased in value to $ 6,705.
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio di De Beers

He deduces that synthetic diamonds are destined, if the trend is confirmed, to lose value. As opposed to natural ones. But it would be wrong to reduce everything to a question of price. The seller’s brand weighs a lot. Zimnisky takes as an example a brand like Hèrmes: if it sold a good synthetic diamond, it would be perceived first of all as a high-class jewel and then as an unnatural gem. This reasoning leads the analyst to a prediction: most synthetic diamonds will lose value. But there will also be a small number of brands that will be able to use them by leveraging their reputation, as long as they choose very large and excellent quality gems. In short, the synthetic jewelry market could be divided into two classes, normal and premium. The latter may be competitive with natural diamonds but, of course, they will also be more expensive.
Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD di De Beers
Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD di De Beers

A successful example for medium quality synthetic diamonds is, for example, the recent Pandora Brilliance line. But a card to play for manufacturers of artificial gems could be the possibility of personalizing the gems with unusual shapes, an aspect that would allow them to stand out from natural products. The match between the two teams will last a long time.
Rendering degli anelli della collezione Pandora Brilliance
Rendering degli anelli della collezione Pandora Brilliance







The rare jewels of Sabba




Mysterious and refined: the jewels of Alessandro Sabbatini with his Sabba brand ♦ ︎

Very reserved, practically invisible. If there would were no jewels that he produced, about 40 a year, Alessandro Sabbatini could be considered a ghost. But the designer is alive, young (just over thirty years old) and refined. The jewels with his trademark, Sabba, you can find they practically only from Fd Gallery in New York. But often rings and earrings are bought by collectors who book them in advance (we have already write here).

Orecchini sferici con tsavorite e diamanti
Orecchini sferici con tsavorite e diamanti

Sabbatini perfected his profession in Carnet and Cartier. And he did not want to get off those peaks. Handmade creations, stones of the highest quality, always different pieces: it is what awaits, punctually satisfied, her fans. Not only. It also uses difficult-to-work materials, such as titanium, which give lightness. Obviously all this is not free. For her jewelry, get ready to sign a check start for 40,000 to 60,000 dollars, up to 500,000 for the most precious jewels. His jewels are sold in New York by the prestigious Fd gallery.

Orecchini con acquamarina e diamanti su platino
Orecchini con acquamarina e diamanti su platino e oro
Orecchini in titanio con diamanti
Orecchini in titanio e oro con diamanti
Orecchini chandelier con granati e diamanti
Orecchini chandelier con granati e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi colombiani cabochon e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi colombiani cabochon e diamanti
Anello in oro con diamanti bianchi e rosa
Anello in oro con diamanti bianchi e rosa

Orecchini a cerchio con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini a cerchio con diamanti e zaffiri rosa







Satta Matturi in the kingdom of ancient Nubia




Expert in jewelry, professional in the diamond trade: Satta Matturi, British passport, founded the Maison that bears her name almost 20 years ago. But she decided to combine her experience with her commitment to enhance her African roots. It is an aspect of the great continent that is little known, commonly underestimated: the traditions of ancient cultures, combined with mineral resources ranging from gold to the most precious gems, are elements that have always been available to Western jewelers. And Satta Matturi combines European goldsmith skills with African icons.

Orecchini indossati della collezione Whispers of Meroë
Orecchini indossati della collezione Whispers of Meroë

An example is the Whispers of Meroë collection, the third by Matturi Fine Jewelery. These are jewels inspired by the lost Nubian kingdom of Kush and its stories of female power, resilience and opulence lost during ancient Egypt. The jewels, especially the earrings, are made of gold, layers of enamel and custom cut gems. The shapes refer to the more than 200 thin pyramids discovered in the Nubian capital of Meroë mixed with an Art-Deco style, deconstructed using linear shapes in rich 18-karat yellow and white gold. The jewels are enriched with triangular and round brilliant diamonds (of ethical origin), black onyx discs, pastel morganites, deep red rhodolites and golden pearls, which reflect the colors of the landscapes along the high Nile delta. Inside each piece of the collection is the eye of Horus, which symbolizes protection, royal power and (for those who believe in it) good health for the wearer.

Orecchini Nomoli Totem Arc in oro 18 carati,  con diamanti naturali, onice
Orecchini Nomoli Totem Arc in oro 18 carati, con diamanti naturali, onice
Orecchini Totem Nomoli in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti naturali, onice, quarzo fumé
Orecchini Totem Nomoli in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti naturali, onice, quarzo fumé
Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice
Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice
Orecchini a bottone in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice
Orecchini a bottone in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, onice

Orecchini Bayuda in oro giallo 18 carati, morganite, smalto, pavé di diamanti
Orecchini Bayuda in oro giallo 18 carati, morganite, smalto, pavé di diamanti







Palwer, precision in Venice

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Among the beautiful things in Venice there are also the jewels of the designer Alessandro Palwer. Here are some examples ♦

Gold, diamonds and rope in the bracelets and necklaces of the Venetian designer Alessandro Palwer. That works precisely on the shapes and volumes of a contemporary classic such as chain links, with elements with clean, rounded or elongated lines, in pink gold and brown diamonds, shiny yellow gold, white gold and gray diamonds. The result? Elegant, yet informal and easy to wear jewelry, that transversal understatement of fashions that makes people ask: “Nice, where did you buy it?”. In short, the maximum of chic. Palwer’s jewels are very different from each other: from the collection inspired by drops of water with moonstones and diamonds, to smoky emerald cut quartz mounted on an intricate combination of curves, to the splendor of the mirrored surfaces.

Anello in oro bianco e rodio nero, diamanti
Anello in oro bianco e rodio nero, diamanti

The designer has an uncommon story: he was born and raised in Rome, but then he focused on Paris, where he worked with Parisian fashion brands and was also creative director of Ungaro for over ten years. Not happy, he also founded a furniture and accessories company: Suite 307. In addition, he also created costumes for many opera productions. But then he decided to move to Venice and design refined jewels, with a rigorous design.
Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, diamanti brown, cordino di cotone cerato beige
Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, diamanti brown, cordino di cotone cerato beige

Orecchini in oro rosa
Orecchini in oro rosa
Alessandro Plawer, collezione Keep me, bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti brown e corda
Alessandro Plawer, collezione Keep me, bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti brown e corda
Collezione Keep me, bracciale con doppio giro in oro rosa e corda
Collezione Keep me, bracciale con doppio giro in oro rosa e corda
Collezione Hug me, anello in oro rosa
Collezione Hug me, anello in oro rosa
Anello Dance rose in oro rosa, diamanti brown e quarzi fumé taglio smeraldo
Anello Dance rose in oro rosa, diamanti brown e quarzi fumé taglio smeraldo

Anello in oro giallo
Anello in oro giallo







Curious things about diamonds




Some time ago the Diamond Producers Association, which brings together companies in the mining sector, published a manifesto that contains some curiosities about the world of diamonds, as well as an indulgent interpretation of the activity of mineral extraction. The manifesto contains some information that may be of interest.

Il diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana
Il maxi diamante trovato nella miniera di Karowe, in Botswana
  1. Before there was life, there were diamonds. Diamonds were formed between 1-3 billion years ago, 100 miles below as deep as the earth’s surface. Diamonds are the oldest thing most of us will ever own or even hold.
  2. Diamonds are uniquely beautiful. No two, like snowflakes, are alike.

    The Rock, diamante a forma di pera da 228,31 carati
    The Rock, diamante a forma di pera da 228,31 carati
  3. Diamonds are rare and getting rarer. The last significant discovery of diamonds was almost 20 years ago and only approximately 50 locations around the world were found to contain diamonds viable for commercial mining. In 1 ton of rock, called kimberlite, you would be lucky to find 1 carat of diamond.
  4. Natural colored diamonds are the rarest. There is a 1 in 10,000 chance that a diamond will possess a natural color, whether that color is pink, yellow, blue, brown, gray or any shade in between.
  5. Globally more than 10 million people are suppor ted by the diamond industry.

    The Enigma, diamante nero di di 555,55 carati
    The Enigma, diamante nero di di 555,55 carati
  6. The Greeks and Romans believed diamonds were the tears of the gods and remnants of fallen stars. Romans also placed diamonds at the tip of Cupid’s arrow, which is one of the earliest associations to love.
  7. More than 99% o diamonds are now from conflict-free sources and are tracked under the UN mandated Kimberley Process since its inception in 2000.
  8. Diamonds create employment opportunities for mine workers and help them to not only make a good salary, but also obtain healthcare, create a better home environment and provide education for their children.
  9. The world’s leading mining companies take major steps to help maintain and protect the environments and wildlife that surround their mines. Mine Closure Plans are approved years before a mine opens to ensure the land and communities benefit long after the mine closes.
  10. Because of their age and origin, diamonds are scientists’ closest source to the center of the earth and provide clues to what the earth was like 2 billion years ago.
Miniera di diamanti a cielo aperto
Miniera di diamanti a cielo aperto
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
La miniera di diamanti Cullinan
Il diamante rosa Pink Star
Il diamante rosa Pink Star
Anello con diamante fancy intense blue di 5,23 carati
Anello con diamante fancy intense blue di 5,23 carati
Anello di Tiffany con diamante di oltre 16 carati
Anello di Tiffany con diamante di oltre 16 carati







Messika gives wings to high jewelery

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Pharaohs, pyramids, sphinx: ancient Egypt is a myth. And diamonds are also a myth, companions desired by women. A myth among myths, Valérie Messika has decided to combine the Egyptian atmosphere with high-end diamond-based jewelry, which is the specialty of the Parisian Maison. The result is called Beyond the Light. It is a collection of high jewelry that the French designer defines retro-futuristic, an effective oxymoron to describe a collection that has its apex in Akh-Ba-Ka an incredible set with a design intrinsically inspired by the mythology and style of ancient Egypt. and its sacred scarabs, made of diamonds and white gold.

Messika, collier indossato Akh Ba Ka, del set Beyond The Light. Photo: Marin Laborde
Messika, collier indossato Akh Ba Ka, del set Beyond The Light. Photo: Marin Laborde

Attention, this is an exceptional set, which includes 15 diamonds cut from the same gem, a rough diamond of 110 carats discovered in the Lucara mine, in Botswana. All 15 diamonds obtained from that single stone are gathered in the same set: a rather extraordinary fact. Among all, there is a diamond with the highest purity, color D, and with a weight of 33 carats. Messika’s set also includes earrings and ring.

Orecchini asimmetrici della Beyond the Light Collection
Orecchini asimmetrici della Beyond the Light Collection

Ancient Egypt was a civilization that continues to fascinate all generations and cultures. It gives off a mystery, an almost magical aura that evokes eternity. It is also a world that infuses a powerful and inspiring spirituality.
Valérie Messika

Valérie Messika
Valérie Messika

An explanation has also been added to the name of the main set of the collection. In ancient Egyptian mythology, Ka symbolizes life energy and Ba represents transformation to the afterlife. From the union of these forces comes Akh, the transfiguration of a person towards the light. The word Akh-Ba-Ka therefore indicates transcendence. But it also means a great work of high jewelery. The necklace uses 2,550 diamonds, for a total of 71.49 carats. At the center of the necklace, the 33-carat cushion-cut diamond is inserted by a play of pendants. the wings of the beetle embrace the entire front part of the jewel and the other diamonds, some of which with fancy cuts.
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della Beyond the Light Collection
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della Beyond the Light Collection

Il diamante da 110 carati con cui è stata realizzata la collana
Il diamante grezzo da 110 carati con cui è stata realizzata la collana
La Akh Ba Ka necklace utilizza 2.550 diamanti, per un totale di 71.49 carati
La Akh Ba Ka necklace utilizza 2.550 diamanti, per un totale di 71.49 carati







New alchemy of light by De Beers

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For years, De Beers has entered the synthetic diamond market with the Lightbox brand. But The Alchemist of Light is, instead, the name of the high jewelery collection that obviously uses natural diamonds. Light, as we know, can cause different effects. A taste of the collection arrived in January. Six months later the big company that is synonymous with the most loved stone by women (a De Beers ad introduced the famous “a diamond is forever”) adds a new set of jewelry. In total there are 45 pieces of high jewelery made with diamonds of different cuts.

Anello della linea Frozen Capture con diamante di 8,24 carati al centro, incastonato in cristallo di rocca
Anello della linea Frozen Capture con diamante di 8,24 carati al centro, incastonato in cristallo di rocca

During the haut couture week in Paris De Beers showed five new sets: Dusk Reflection, Ascending Shadows, Midnight Aura, Optical Wonder and Frozen Capture. The diamonds used are not only white or, more correctly, colorless, but also fancy. They are unique pieces, particularly rich and elaborate, with a modern design and use of titanium colored in pink and blue shades.
Collana Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio
Collana Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio

As an established trend now seems, the Alchemist of Light collection also features transformable pieces, such as the Dusk Reflection set, which features detachable elements: the choker is transformed into two cuffs, with a not simple goldsmith technique solution. It should also be noted that in some cases the diamonds are combined with “less noble” stones, as for Midnight Aura, where the transparent gems are placed inside green chrysoprase pearls. Or the Frozen Capture set, where diamonds coexist with rock crystal.
Collana Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio
Collana Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio

Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti centrali fancy, titanio e alluminio
Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti centrali fancy, titanio e alluminio
Orecchini Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio
Orecchini Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio
Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamante centrale brown di 12,4 carati, titanio e alluminio
Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamante centrale brown di 12,4 carati, titanio e alluminio
Anello Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante centrale taglio princess
Anello Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante centrale taglio princess
Collana Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante a pera di oltre 20 carati
Collana Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante a pera di oltre 20 carati
Choker Dusk Reflection con diamante rosa pendente
Choker Dusk Reflection con diamante rosa pendente






Extraordinary Bomare

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The extraordinary stones byBomare, brand founded in Geneva by Marc Boghossian ♦ ︎
Before Boghossian was Boghossian, that is a high-end jewelry brand admired all over the world, there was Bomare. This is the name of the Geneva-based company specializing in high-end colored diamonds, precious stones and unique jewelry creations. Marc Boghossian, Swiss of Armenian-Middle Eastern origin, founded Bomare in 1997. The company, which was present in GemGenève, offers natural pink, blue and yellow diamonds, large white diamonds, rubies and Burmese sapphires, Colombian emeralds and natural pearls. Things for refined investors and collectors. On the other hand, the Boghossian family has been in the diamond and jewelery industry for more than six generations.

Anello con diamante blu e diamanti rosa
Anello con diamante blu e diamanti rosa

A tradition that is rooted in time, in short, and that has helped to build the fame of Bomare. The Maison emphasizes that it has chosen to buy rough diamonds in conflict-free countries, in South Africa, in full compliance with the Kimberley process. The gems are then polished in New York and in Antwerp and are all certified with the Gia and Ssef laboratories. In GemGenève Bomare featured a titanium butterfly pendant, paved with diamonds and sapphires, but above all with a large pink diamond in the center, next to a necklace made of pear cut diamonds with 7.5 carat yellow diamonds. Pieces that do not go unnoticed.

Anello con importante diamante fancy intense yellow
Anello con importante diamante fancy intense yellow
Collana di diamanti taglio pera con diamante giallo pendente
Collana di diamanti taglio pera con diamante giallo pendente
Orecchini con smeraldi della Colombia e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi della Colombia e diamanti
Pendente a forma di farfalla in titanio con diamante rosa al centro
Pendente a forma di farfalla in titanio con diamante rosa al centro
Spilla con diamanti e smeraldo colombiano
Spilla con diamanti e smeraldo colombiano







Rain of diamonds signed Tatiana Verstraeten for Lily James




Professionally known Lily Chloe Ninette Thomson, 33, is best known as Lily James. She is an English actress who, like other stars, made her appearance at the recent Met Gala. For the occasion, Lily James chose to wear Tatiana Verstraeten‘s diamonds. The British actress, whose latest work was participation in the television miniseries Pam & Tommy, attracted attention thanks to a Versace dress with a transparency mitigated by beads and the exclusive Diamond Rain Fringe earrings by Tatiana Verstraeten, founder and artistic director of the homonymous Maison based in Paris.

Lily James in abito Versace e orecchini by Tatiana Verstraeten
Lily James in abito Versace e orecchini by Tatiana Verstraeten

Lily James con gli orecchini Diamond Rain Fringe
Lily James con gli orecchini Diamond Rain Fringe
Lily James al Met Gala
Lily James al Met Gala

Lily James al Met Gala di New York
Lily James al Met Gala di New York







Retail diamonds online with Dimexon




Dimexon is one of De Beers’ leading intermediaries, with sales offices around the world. The company specializes in round cut diamonds and is a partner of many top-rated watch and jewelry houses. The company, founded in 1966 by Pankaj Mehta and now a second generation family business, deals only with traceable natural diamonds of ethical origin. Now Dimexon is launching a new service: a digital channel specializing in the supply of small and non-certified, ethical and traceable diamonds, with no minimum order. A service that can be interesting for small jewelers. As Vishal P. Mehta, director of Dimexon, explains to gioiellis.com.

Vishal P. Mehta, director of Dimexon
Vishal P. Mehta, director of Dimexon

Can you describe the new service on Dimexon.com?

Our new B2B e-tail site is an digital marketplace where approved professionals can order fully traceable, perfectly calibrated, natural melee diamonds as simply as making any other online purchase. On the site we offer more than 120 types of round, white diamonds and, crucially for smaller businesses, there is no minimum order. All of our diamonds are cut and polished in-house at our headquarters in Coimbatore, India, and then quality checked and shipped from our Dimexon office in Antwerp. The e-tail site is being run out of Copenhagen, and will initially be focused on the European market.

Who is the service aimed at?

Over the years, we have experienced an increased demand for smaller orders and realised that there was a section of the market that was not being served properly by the diamond industry. The launch of the e-tail site was a reaction to this – a digital space where our customers can order in whatever quantity they require, whether that is bulk order or just a few stones for a bespoke design. By doing so, our high-quality, fully traceable and consistent supply of natural melee diamonds can now be accessed by all jewellers, watchmakers, designers and workshops. We feel this is a breakthrough for the jewellery industry.

What is the quality of the gems for sale?

Customers can select 40 different calibrations in 13 varying levels of quality across the business, which is a relatively wide offering. It is important to note that we only sell natural diamonds, and we have a rigorous testing process to ensure we can guarantee this.

Screenshot del servizio di shopping Dimexon
Screenshot del servizio di shopping Dimexon

Is there a minimum order?

Dimexon’s new e-tail site has no minimum order, which is one of our main USPs and an innovative feature of our offering. We believe this makes us the first major diamond manufacturer to offer traceable diamonds with no minimum order, therefore levelling the playing field for smaller and independent brands.

How does the online purchase take place? Is your credit card enough?

The customer experience is very simple. Anybody who is registered as a business can sign up and once a customer has registered and passed our KYC checks, they can use our innovative e-tail site as easily as you would any other online website. We accept credit cards as the main form of payment.

Are the diamonds certified? From who?

As we are dealing exclusively in natural melee diamonds, the stones are not certified – this is standard across the industry for the smallest diamonds. However, all our diamonds go through exhaustive quality checks, and we are known for our quality as well as being able to guarantee that all our diamonds are natural. Although the launch of the e-tail site might mean some jewellers are hearing about us for the first time, Dimexon launched in 1966 and the company has built a strong reputation as a trusted supplier to some of the best-known major luxury brands in the industry, who rely on us to supply them with top-quality diamonds. 

Analisi delle gemme nel laboratorio di Demexon
Analisi delle gemme nel laboratorio di Demexon

There is a lot of attention on the ethical origin of gems. What is your policy?

There is indeed – and this is as it should be. An ethical approach to manufacturing diamonds is something that has been at the heart of our business since we started in 1966, a time when few companies were talking about ethics. As such, we do not have one policy but an entire business that has been built around sustainability, traceability and ethics. As we are a fully integrated supplier, we buy in rough diamonds from our trusted suppliers, such as De Beers Group and Rio Tinto, and then perform every other task in house at our factory in Coimbatore and then sell direct to jewellers, thus minimising the number of hands stones pass through. As well as traceability, we have a deep respect for our staff and the environment. We create a safe and caring workplace for our staff – which is more than 87% female – and ensure that we keep our carbon footprint as low as possible through eco-friendly practices, such as harvesting our rainwater. Our corporate responsibility is deeply embedded within our business philosophy. We have been a De Beers Global Sightholder since 1976, going above and beyond its strict rules on ethics, financial prudence and adherence to the Kimberley Process. We are also a Rio Tinto Select Diamantaire and a founding member of The Responsible Jewellery Council. We are fully AML-compliant and have been a voluntary signatory to the IFRS since 2006. As the first diamond company to subscribe to IFRS standards, Dimexon led the way. In due course, De Beers required all its Sightholders to follow suit to improve financial transparency and the stability of the diamond sector. We use our standing and reputation not just to benefit our own company, but to inspire organisations in the diamond industry to follow our example.
What are the delivery times for the stones?

Dimexon offers same or next day shipping with a 3 to 5 day delivery time.

Do all diamonds have the same cut?

We offer only natural round melee diamonds on our new e-tail site, but we have experience offering other cuts through our core business.

Controllo qualità e selezione dei diamanti
Controllo qualità e selezione dei diamanti

For a private buyer which of the famous four C’s (carat, color, clarity and cut), is more important when choosing?
For larger diamonds, all laboratories analyse cut and provide a cut grade on their certificate. For smaller diamonds, this is more challenging, as there is no certification typically provided. The only distinguishable feature when comparing a batch of well-cut and poorly cut small diamonds is that the well-cut stones will have more brilliance, and therefore will emit a brighter sparkle. This is simply because the facets are cut to exacting angles, thereby allowing light to reflect optimally. So if you are buying small diamonds, such as those on our e-tail site, I would prioritise a great cut.

What is your opinion on synthetic diamonds, made in the laboratory?

There is a place for both lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds in the jewellery industry, and the two can co-exist as each category meets the needs of parallel market requirements. Lab-grown diamonds are the product of technology and therefore, in my opinion, are a good solution for fashion-led accessories and jewellery categories that are not built on lasting value and do not incorporate other investment-quality materials.   

Analisi dei diamanti
Analisi dei diamanti







Graffabulous, Graff’s magnificent jewels

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Puns, puns, are a lovable trait of the British people. The londoner super jeweler Graff also takes part in this hobby, launching his high-end collection under the name of Graffabulous, a synthesis between the name of the Maison and the word fabulous. The idea would simply remain a divertissement were it not that the word fully reflects the quality of the collection. It goes without saying that the pieces of high jewelry that compose it have many large diamonds that sparkle, in particular fancy yellow gems that look like small suns.

Le modelle Qun Ye, Aya Jones e Grace Elizabeth con la collezione Graffabulous
Le modelle Qun Ye, Aya Jones e Grace Elizabeth con collane della collezione Graffabulous

The collection includes three elaborate sets of jewelry, with particular attention to necklaces: the first two focus on yellow and colorless diamonds, while the third features only the classic colorless gems. Colored gemstones are also on the way: Graffabulous includes more than 3,600 carats of precious stones, of which 1,877 carats of white diamonds, 678 carats of yellow diamonds, 616 carats of sapphires, 414 carats of emeralds and 101 carats of rubies. Basically, Aladdin’s treasure. Three models were called to wear them, posing as mermaids: Qun Ye, Aya Jones and Grace Elizabeth, each with a different Graffabulous suite.

Orecchini con diamanti incolori
Orecchini con diamanti incolori
Orecchini con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow
Orecchini con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow
Anello con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow taglio ovale
Anello con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow taglio ovale
Bracciale con diamanti incolori e un diamante fancy yellow taglio smeraldo
Bracciale con diamanti incolori e un diamante fancy yellow taglio smeraldo
Collana con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow
Collana con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow

Collana con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow della collezione Graffabulous
Collana con diamanti incolori e fancy yellow della collezione Graffabulous







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