diamond

What are rose cut diamonds?

The rose cut diamonds is back in fashion. But this type of cutting of the most famous stone in the world has pros and cons. Here is what you need to know before buying a jewel with a rose cut diamond. And, above all, learn about this ancient cut of the most precious and beloved stone. The first question is: what are rose-cut diamonds? If you have any doubts, know that this shape does not actually imitate the appearance of the flower.

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Ring with rose-cut diamond cluster

How to recognize the rose cut. The rose cut is a type of diamond processing that was used in the past, in particular in the Georgian era, that is the period of the history of England that goes from the reign of George I to that of George IV, between 1714 and 1830 Rose cut diamonds are often confused with round or round cut diamonds, but the difference is notable. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded top, but a flat base. The top of the stone features different triangular facets than brilliant cut diamonds. Brilliant cut diamonds have become popular since the late 1800s and manage to make the diamond appear much more sparkling thanks to 57-58 facets. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, have a maximum of 24 facets. Brilliant cut diamonds have a pointed bottom that reflects more light. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can be brighter, albeit less sparkling.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati
Sutra Jewels, 15 carat diamond ring, rose cut

The advantage. Rose-cut diamonds weigh less than brilliant-cut ones, as they are less thick (they don’t have a pointed underside). For this reason, for the same carats (i.e. the weight of a stone) they will have a larger surface. In short, they are larger for the same weight. A 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond measures 6.5 millimeters when viewed from above, while a rose-cut diamond of the same weight measures approximately 7.5 millimeters. Not only that: rose cut diamonds can have many different shapes: round, oval, pear, kite, hexagon, square, or they can also be cut into random and irregular shapes. In fact, we must not confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond, which refers to the outline of the stone (rectangular, round, pear-shaped). The cut, on the other hand, refers to aspects such as proportion, facets and polishing.

Anello di alta gioielleria con smeraldi per 6 carati, e diamante rose-cut al centro
High jewelry ring with 6 carats of emeralds and a rose-cut diamond in the center

The classification. Rose-cut diamonds follow the usual classification of other diamonds: the color ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (brown or yellow shade). Since they sparkle less, rose-cut diamonds are also often used in more accentuated colors such as gray, champagne, dull white, black and yellow. Clarity is also classified as for other diamonds.

La differenza tra un taglio rosa e un taglio brillante
The difference between a pink cut and a brilliant cut

Is it worth buying a rose-cut diamond? Often rose-cut diamonds are offered as a rarity, or as a stylistic choice of the jeweler. It is undoubtedly an easier cut to make and, therefore, faster and less expensive. In India, the rose cut is part of tradition and is still widely used. There are other brands, such as 64Facets of New York that mainly use rose-cut diamonds. Before buying a jewel with rose cut diamonds, however, it is good to evaluate the aesthetic result. The best thing is to compare a jewel with rose cut diamonds to one with more modern cut stones, to see the difference with your own eyes.

Anello con diamante taglio brillante al centro e taglio rosa ai lati by 64Facets
Ring with brilliant cut diamond in the center and rose cut on the sides by 64Facets

William Goldberg and the Ashoka cut

William Goldberg and the rare Ashoka cut diamonds, modeled on one of the oldest and most famous stones in the world ♦ ︎

Once upon a time, and there still is, the very ancient original Ashoka diamond: classified as D (completely colorless), it weighs 41.37 carats. The name is in honor of the Buddhist warrior Ashoka Maurya, who lived two centuries before Christ, and was sold and repurchased twice by Harry Winston. The diamond has fascinated kings and billionaires, but also merchants in love with precious stones, such as William Goldberg, known as Bill, , who passed away in 2003. Many years ago the dealer and jeweler studied each of Ashoka’s facets: from its elegant and elongated shape to the rounded edges. Finally, he managed to understand the secret of that exceptional stone until he patented the cut: but it takes a special rough diamond to become an Ashoka diamond.

Anello con diamante fancy yellow con taglio Ashoka
Ring with fancy yellow diamond with Ashoka cut

Goldberg was born in Brooklyn, New York. He began cutting diamonds in 1948, and then trading high-quality gems. Goldberg & Weiss, with diamond cutter Irving Weiss, was founded in 1952. And in 1973 he founded the William Goldberg Diamond Corporation, in the city’s Diamond District. In 1978 he was elected president of the New York Diamond Dealers Club. He dealt in famous diamonds, including the Queen of Holland diamond, the Premier Rose, the Red Shield diamond and the Pumpkin Diamond. Now William Goldberg is the name of the American Maison run by the heirs, but Ashoka remains a difficult goal, because less than 1% of rough diamonds meet the demanding standards required. All Ashoka diamonds are cut by the masters of William Goldberg. But, of course, William Goldberg doesn’t just offer Ashoka diamond jewelry.

Anello eternity con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Eternity ring with Ashoka cut diamonds
Bracciale rigido con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Rigid bracelet with Ashoka cut diamonds
Anello con diamante taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut diamond ring
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut diamond drop earrings

Anello con zaffiro taglio Ashoka
Ashoka cut sapphire ring

William Goldberg il giorno del suo matrimonio con Lili Gordon
William Goldberg on his wedding day to Lili Gordon

The V Rai jewels with laboratory diamonds

The laboratory-created diamond jewels of the American brand V Rai have a special history. They are made with the fruit of the production of the American company Diamond Foundry, which produces diamonds using the method of chemical vapor deposition (CVD). The company was founded in 2015 and among its investors there was also Leonardo DiCaprio, a veteran of the film Blood Diamond, convinced in supporting a technological way to diamond. And Vrai is the Da Diamond Foundry-backed, consumer-facing jewelry brand. The brand has collaborated with Balmain, Givenchy and Dover Street Market. Now launches the V jewelry collection.

Choker in oro 18 carati e diamanti di laboratorio
Choker in 18 carat gold and laboratory diamonds

With V, I wanted the design to focus on the setting rather than the multitude of diamond cuts normally available in our collections. I hope you offer V Rai customers a highly distinctive, elegant yet bold look that feels like a bold celebration of your authentic style, with every edgy line reflecting the individuality of the wearer.
Mona Akhavi, president of V RAI.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti di laboratorio
Ring in white gold and laboratory diamonds

The jewels of the V RAIVè collection are characterized by angular lines and a setting that uses the V shape, which houses brilliant-cut laboratory diamonds and alludes to the brand logo. The company, which sells online worldwide, also highlights the introduction of the Flex bracelet, the first with spring wire, which flexes easily to allow for easy wear. The tennis necklace and the choker both have invisible clasps: a solution that highlights the design.

Bracciale V Rai V in oro bianco e diamanti
V Rai V bracelet in white gold and diamonds
Bracciale tennis in oro bianco e diamanti di laboratorio
Tennis bracelet in white gold and laboratory diamonds
Anello in oro giallo e diamanti di laboratorio
Ring in yellow gold and laboratory diamonds
Bracciale in oro giallo e diamanti di laboratorio
Bracelet in yellow gold and laboratory diamonds

Artëmer’s art of jewelry

Since 2011 Artëmer has been a point of reference for design jewelery lovers. On its side it has the ability of designers, but also the fact of being in the middle of one of the world’s largest diamond districts, that of Tel Aviv, in Israel. The studio was founded by a young couple who wanted to spend every day, Tanya and Tomer. Both are graduates of the Academy of Art and Design. Tomer worked as a jeweler after her education and Tanya graduated as a video artist and worked for a start-up. In their bio, the couple tells the beginning of the story as something fortuitous.

Anello in stile art déco in oro giallo e diamanti baguette
Art deco style ring in yellow gold and baguette diamonds

Tomer was fired from his job and started working on Tanya’s engagement ring, instead of looking for another job as an employee. The ring became the first jewel of the Maison. The brand’s style is minimalist, but not too much. Aligned baguette-cut stones form clusters of gems, mostly diamonds, which enrich the rings, the most present type in a truly vast catalogue. All produced in the TLV Studio which is located in the Diamond Exchange District of Israel.

Anello Bubble in oro e zaffiri di diverse sfumature
Bubble ring in gold and sapphires of different shades
Anello New moon con diamante nero a mezzaluna e diamanti bianchi baguette
New moon ring with crescent black diamond and white baguette diamonds
Orecchini a bottone con zaffiri rosa e viola
Stud earrings with pink and purple sapphires
Orecchino in oro giallo e diamanti
Earring in yellow gold and diamonds
Anello Rainbow in oro e zaffiri multicolori
Rainbow ring in gold and multicolored sapphires

Lab-created one-third of diamonds for engagement rings

In the United States, more than a third of solitaire engagement rings sold last year were made with lab-created diamonds. This is indicated by an online survey conducted on almost 12,000 US couples by the company specializing in wedding planning The Knot. The number represents double compared to 2020. The survey proposes the duel between artificially created diamonds, which from a chemical point of view are identical to natural ones, and traditional gems extracted in mines.
Are Lab Diamonds Sustainable?
What are Lab Diamonds?

Diamante di laboratorio prodotto da Aether Diamonds
Diamante di laboratorio prodotto da Aether Diamonds

Factory-created diamonds, mostly in China or India where energy comes mainly from large polluting power plants, cost a third of natural ones and, if you don’t have to resell the jewel in a few years, hardly anyone will be able to distinguish the difference between a natural gem and one artificial, at least to the naked eye. Currently, wrote The Wall Street Journal, a one-carat lab-grown diamond retails for about $1,430, while a traditionally mined gemstone of the same size retails for $5,635.
Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice
Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice di Brilliant Earth

However, many large jewelery houses remain against the use of laboratory diamonds. Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier recently reiterated his opposition and sided with traditional diamonds, at least for engagement ones: “There is a difference in having something created by the Earth in 4 million years and something made in four minutes in your garage, when you want to express a symbol of eternity,” he said.
Anello con diamanti di laboratorio
Anello con diamanti di laboratorio

Meanwhile, however, artificial diamonds are now also used by major watch brands. For example, Tag Heuer (LVMH group) has used lab grown diamonds in the Carrera Plasma model: the crown is made up of a whole diamond, while the rest of the watch is encrusted with irregularly shaped stones. Doing the same with the quarried stones would have been wasteful, given the cutting and shaping that would have been required, according to the company.
Tag Heuer Carrera Plasma con diamanti lab grown
Tag Heuer Carrera Plasma con diamanti lab grown

Gucci and Breitling have also used laboratory stones. Not only that: Breitling has announced that all of its watches will use only lab-grown diamonds within the next year. And he has already presented the first timepiece with artificial stones, the Super Chronomat 38 Origins.

Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 origins, con diamanti di laboratorio
Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 origins, con diamanti di laboratorio

The blue diamond illuminates Christie’s




Nearly $60 million in jewelry. This is what Christie’s auction of Magnificent Jewels in New York totaled. To be precise, total sales are $58.8 million, with 93% sold per lot and 105% sold above the low estimate. The top lot was a 31.62-carat fancy blue diamond, the largest ever to appear at auction, which sold for $11.8 million. In short, diamonds as an investment are always interesting. Other pieces that earned a six-figure rating include an 86.64-carat diamond pendant necklace that sold for $5.7 million and a 107.46-carat large fancy yellow diamond brooch by Graff that sold for 2.6 million, while an important diamond ring of 51.60 carats was purchased for 2.5 million by the prince of dealers William Goldberg.

Diamante taglio smeraldo Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless di 13,75 carati di de Beers
Diamante taglio smeraldo Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless di 13,75 carati di de Beers

Other results highlighted by Christie’s: an Art Deco sapphire and diamond pendant sold for 1.4 million, almost ten times its lowest estimate, a pair of heart-shaped colored diamond earrings fetched 1.4 million, more than five times their lowest estimate. Also successfully sold were a Bouquet brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, which belonged to Evita Perón, sold for $195,300, and a Flower Brooch by the same Parisian ruby and emerald Maison, which fetched 1.2 million.

Anello con diamante ovale di 51,60 carati
Anello con diamante ovale di 51,60 carati
Collana di diamanti con un eccezionale diamante taglio pera di colore D da 86,64 carati
Collana di diamanti con un eccezionale diamante taglio pera di colore D da 86,64 carati

Spilla Bouquet con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron
Spilla Bouquet di Van Cleef & Arpels con zaffiro retrò, zaffiro colorato e rubino appartenuta a Evita Peron

Ciondolo con diamante blu di 31,62 carati
Ciondolo con diamante blu di 31,62 carati







A new record pink is coming from Christie’s





Year 2022 is the year of pink. Christie’s, in fact, is offering a new pink diamond at auction which, according to estimates, could be sold for up to 35 million dollars, with a minimum estimate of 25 million. The diamond is considered one of the finest fancy vivid pink emerald-cut diamonds ever offered at auction and will be part of the Magnificent Jewels sale December 6 at Rockefeller Center in New York during Luxury Week.

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond di 13,15 carati
Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond di 13,15 carati

The Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond is prong set in a ring and has impressive VVS1 clarity, weighing 13.15 carats. A pink diamond of this size and quality is rare. In the fancy vivid pink range, a diamond over 6 carats is rarely encountered and less than 10% of pink diamonds weigh more than a fifth of a carat. The Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond is therefore considered one of the most important colored diamonds to appear on the market. The Winston Pink Legacy (18.936 carats) surpassed 50 million in 2018 and set a world record price per carat for a pink diamond sold at auction.
Rahul-Kadakia durante un'asta di Christie's
Rahul-Kadakia durante un’asta di Christie’s

Following the success of The Fortune Pink which fetched nearly $30 million in Geneva, we are proud to have been approached by a private collector to offer this incredible diamond for auction in December. This season has seen outstanding results for fancy color diamonds and this particular vivid fancy pink is top notch. With impressive saturation, stepped facets, and potentially flawless clarity internally, this 13.15-carat fancy vivid pink is beautifully rare.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewellery

The Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond will be exhibited in New York from November 14th to November 15th, in Hong Kong from November 25th to November 28th and presented in New York from December 2nd to December 5th.

TOP VIVID PINK DIAMONDS OFFERED BY CHRISTIE’S

The Winston Pink Legacy
The Winston Pink Legacy

The Winston Pink Legacy
18.96 carat fancy vivid pink cut corner rectangular cut diamond
US$50,375,000 / Price per carat: US$2,650,000
The Pink Promise, diamante ovale fancy vivid pink diamond di 14.93 carati. Venduto per 32,163 milioni di dollari a Hong Kong
The Pink Promise, diamante ovale fancy vivid pink diamond di 14.93 carati. Venduto per 32,163 milioni di dollari a Hong Kong

The Pink Promise
Oval-shaped bright pink fancy diamond of 14.93 carats
US$ 32,163,932 / Price per carat: US$ 2,150,000
Fortune Pink, diamante rosa vivido fantasia da 18,18 carat
Fortune Pink, diamante rosa vivido fantasia da 18,18 carat

The Fortune Pink
Pear-shaped vivid pink fantasy of 18.18 carats
US$ 28,816,336 / Price per carat: US$ 1,585,056

Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond di 13,15 carati
Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond di 13,15 carati







A 303-carat golden canary




Sotheby’s has put the turbo. The great auction house continues to present exceptional stones. This time the news comes from Dubai, where Sotheby’s showed one of the largest diamonds, called The Golden Canary. It is a 303.10 carat “monster”, and is the largest flawless or internally flawless diamond ever graded by the Gia. In short, an exceptional stone even if the price will probably remain lower than those of pink or blue diamonds. Estimates for The Golden Canary point to around $ 15 million. The stone will be auctioned at Sotheby’s New York in December. Curiously, it will be offered without reserve with bids starting at just one dollar.

The Golden Canary, diamante di 303.10 carati Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow, Courtesy: Sotheby's
The Golden Canary, diamante di 303.10 carati Fancy Deep Brownish Yellow, Courtesy: Sotheby’s

We have had a bumper year in which we have featured stunning colored diamonds at our global jewelry auctions, as the demand and appetite for these rarities continues to grow. Just two weeks after the record sale of the Williamson Pink Star for $ 57.7 million, we are honored to offer the largest polished diamond in existence to appear at auction. Steeped in history, The Golden Canary is one of the most exquisite diamonds ever discovered, not only for its size and intensity of color, but for its extraordinary beauty that is sure to fascinate collectors around the world. Sotheby’s has the privilege of helping write the next chapter of this incomparable and reborn gem.
Quig Bruning, Head of Jewelry for Sotheby’s America’s

Quig Bruning, Head of Jewelry per Sotheby's America's
Quig Bruning, Head of Jewelry per Sotheby’s America’s

However, The Golden Canary remains an exceptional stone: it has been classified as a Fancy Deep Brownish-Yellow Diamond. The gem also has a story to tell. It was cut from a giant 407-carat rough diamond with a shield shape. The Golden Canary was consequently cut into a pear shape. The diamond will be presented on a world tour. After Dubail, I will be in Taipei, Geneva and Hong Kong.
Il diamante è staro ricavato da una pietra grezza di 407 carati
Il diamante è staro ricavato da una pietra grezza di 407 carati. Courtesy: Sotheby’s

The Golden Canary. Courtesy: Sotheby's
The Golden Canary. Courtesy: Sotheby’s







The fair jewels of Brilliant Earth





If you have noticed that a competition is underway among jewelers to see who is more respectful of the environment and uses ethical principles in the procurement of gold and gems, know that there are also those who have thought about it before the others. Brilliant Earth, based in San Francisco, sells jewelry and even single gems, natural or laboratory that it guarantees are ethically sourced. And given that over the years the trend of sustainable and environmentally sensitive jewelry has begun to appeal to the general public, in 2021 the company also decided to go public on Wall Street.

Anello in oro giallo e diamante taglio brillante
Anello in oro giallo e diamante taglio brillante

Brilliant Earth was founded in 2005 by Beth Gerstein and Eric Grossberg. According to many, the example of the Californian company has prompted many other jewelers to imitate its philosophy. Brilliant Earth uses natural diamonds that come from the Diavik and Ekati mines in Canada, Namibia and Botswana. Sapphires, on the other hand, come from Australia or Malawi. Gold, silver and platinum are either recycled or by cooperatives that meet the standards set by the Alliance for Responsible Mining. In addition, they are Certified Carbonfree Business Partners and use certified sustainable wood for their jewelry packaging boxes as well. Obviously the company is certified by the Responsible Jewelery Council and, as if that were not enough, it uses a blockchain platform to guarantee the traceability of the gems.
Orecchini in oro bianco e topazio blu
Orecchini in oro bianco e topazio blu

The list of good deeds also includes funding a mobile school in Lungudi, Democratic Republic of Congo, and collaboration with Rainforest Alliance, an international non-profit organization. Oh, yeah, what about the jewels? They are quite traditional. Through the website it is also possible to create a ring by choosing the type of setting, shape and quality of the diamond. This too is an act of goodness (for those who buy).

Orecchini in oro bianco e topazio blu
Orecchini in oro bianco e topazio blu

L’elenco delle buone azioni comprende anche il finanziamento di una scuola mobile a Lungudi, nella Repubblica Democratica del Congo, e la collaborazione con Rainforest Alliance, un’organizzazione internazionale senza scopo di lucro. Ah, già, e i gioielli? Sono piuttosto tradizionali. Attraverso il sito internet è possibile anche creare un anello scegliendo il tipo di impostazione, forma e qualità del diamante. Anche questo è un atto di bontà (per chi acquista).

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti Petite Twiste Vine
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti Petite Twiste Vine
Anello Lunette Luxe in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Lunette Luxe in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini con acquamarina e diamanti
Orecchini con acquamarina e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale
Anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale






What is a cubic zirconia?




Cubic zirconia: This stone is often used in jewelry. But few know what cubic zirconia really is. For example, what is a cubic zirconia made of? Is it very different from a diamond? What are the differences? The answers are known to (almost everyone) those who deal with jewelry. But, if you are reading this article, it is because you want to know exactly what are the characteristics of a cubic zirconia that, perhaps, is mounted on a ring or a pair of earrings that you are wearing.

Anello in metallo placcato con cubic zirconia
Anello in metallo placcato con cubic zirconia by Stroili

Beware of the definition
Before explaining what a cubic zirconia really is, we need to clear up a misunderstanding. Often jewelry companies offer rings, necklaces, earrings or bracelets “with zircons”. Well, know that in 99.9% of cases it is not true. In fact, zircon is a rather rare and expensive natural stone (read also: Diamonds or cubic zirconia?). A cubic zirconia, on the other hand, is an artificial stone. So, be careful when you read that a piece of jewelry is composed of cubic zirconia, it is probably not true. Pay attention to it: those who use this marketing ploy propose fake “zircons” with metals such as steel or silver, hardly with 18-karat gold. By the way, sometimes cubic zirconia is denoted only by the abbreviation used in chemistry, CZ.
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Anello in argento e cubic zirconia di PdPaola

What is a cubic zirconia?
In short, the answer is: it is (almost always) an artificial stone, produced in a factory. Although it looks like a diamond in appearance, a cubic zirconia is composed of zirconium dioxide and not carbon like natural gemstones. In fact, microscopic grains of natural cubic zirconia have been identified in nature: they are certainly not those commonly used in jewelry.
Orecchini a cerchio in argento e zirconia cubica colorata
Orecchini a cerchio in argento e zirconia cubica colorata di Rosato

What is the difference with laboratory diamonds?
As we have explained, cubic zirconia is made up of zirconium dioxide. Man-made, lab-created diamonds are composed of carbon, like diamonds found in nature. To learn more, read also: What are laboratory diamonds?
Anello Champs Elysées in argento e cubic zirconia
Anello Champs Elysées in argento e cubic zirconia di Aliviero Martini 1A Classe

What are the characteristics of a cubic zirconia?
The main feature, which is the key to the success of cubic zirconia, is the resemblance to the diamond. But it doesn’t have the same properties. For example, if you look at the bottom surface of a diamond, you can see a rainbow reflection. Cubic zirconia, on the other hand, is limited to an orange and blue reflection due to a different refractive index. When exposed to short wave UV rays a cubic zirconia emits a fluorescence that tends to yellow, greenish yellow or beige. Another feature concerns the hardness. Cubic zirconia is at 8-8.5 on the Mohs scale, so it is a little harder than most natural semi-precious gems, although less than diamond, which is at 10. Yet cubic zirconia is considered brittle, yes breaks easily.
Anello a fascia placcato oro rosa con cubic zirconia
Anello a fascia placcato oro rosa con cubic zirconia di Bronzallure

How is cubic zirconia produced?
The most used method is the one called skull fusion. No one is beheaded: it is named for the shape of the crucible used which resembles a skull, surrounded by radio-frequency activated copper coils. It is a system patented by Josep F. Wenckus in 1997: it consists in heating the base material to temperatures of over 3000 degrees. With this method, however, it is difficult to predict the size of the crystals produced and the crystallization process cannot be controlled. To improve the result, several techniques have been introduced, including coating the finished cubic zirconia with a carbon film, similar to diamond, with a process that uses chemical vapor deposition. Or someone vacuum sprays an extremely thin layer of a precious metal (such as gold), which creates an iridescent effect. However, the effect is not lasting. The commercial production of cubic zirconia began in 1976. But it is not the only artificial stone to be used in place of diamonds. In fact, synthetic moissanite, with similar characteristics, has recently become widespread.
Collana in argento con cubic zirconia
Collana in argento con cubic zirconia di Gerardo Sacco

How is it different from a diamond?
An expert gemologist can immediately discover the difference between a cobic zirconia and a diamond. For one thing, an artificial stone has no inclusions in it, as often happens with a natural gem. Furthermore, cubic zirconia weighs much more than diamond. It has a density that is approximately 1.7 times that of the natural gem. It is therefore sufficient to compare the weight of two stones of the same size. If you drop the stones in a liquid and compare the descent times you will see that the diamond will sink more slowly than a cubic zirconia, because it is lighter. The refractive index is also different: cubic zirconia has it of 2.15-2.18, compared to 2.42 of the natural gem. Paradoxically, moreover, cubic zirconia is more perfect than a diamond: only very rare natural gems are truly colorless (with a classification D). Most diamonds have a slight tinge of yellow or brown. A cubic zirconia is often completely colorless – equivalent to a diamond’s D. However, there is also colored cubic zirconia.
Anello in argento con zirconia cubica bianca
Anello in argento con zirconia cubica bianca di Pandora







The pink diamond challenge: Williamson Pink Star sold for 57 million




A pink diamond breaks all records. The sample is the Williamson Pink Star, an 11.15 carat vivid fancy pink diamond. The stone was sold in Hong Kong by Sotheby’s for over 57 million, exceeding the presale estimates, which had prudently stopped at 21 million dollars. However, it was not a Chinese tycoon who bought the precious diamond, but a billionaire from Florida. As is tradition, the new owner has changed the name of the gem, which is now called The Rosenberg Williamson Pink Star.

Il diamante rosa Williamson Pink Star
Il diamante rosa Williamson Pink Star

The diamond was extracted from the Williamson mine in Tanzania and then cut by Diacore. It was also the second largest vivid pink diamond ever to appear at auction, later, the CTF Pink Star, which weighs 59.6 carats and was bought in 2017 by Hong Kong group Chow Tai Fook for 71.2 million: it is the most expensive gem ever sold at auction. Soon after, however, is the Williamson Pink Star, with a price per carat of around 5.2 million, double the previous record of 2.7 million per carat of the 18.96-carat Winston Pink sold by Christie’s in 2018. .
Il diamante grezzo di 32 carati da cui è stato ricavato The Williamson Pink Star
Il diamante grezzo di 32 carati da cui è stato ricavato The Williamson Pink Star

How long will the new record last? On November 8th, in Geneva, Christie’s will sell another 18.18-carat pear-shaped fancy diamond, called The Fortune Pink: pre-sale estimates indicate a value between 25 million and 35 million dollars. The race is underway.
Il diamante The Fortune Pink, 18,18 carati
Il diamante The Fortune Pink, 18,18 carati







What are laboratory diamonds?

It has been talked about for years, but many people still don’t have a clear idea of ​​what stones are called lab grown diamonds. If you are looking for a quick and concise description of artificially produced diamonds, here we are. Basically, there are two methods to produce man-made diamonds, but in both cases the gems are identical, from a chemical point of view, to natural stones. But the similarity ends there.

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera
Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera, pietra creata in laboratorio

The name of the diamonds
But, first of all, what are these diamonds called? In English the definition lab grown is the most used, especially by the marketing of those who produce or sell these synthetic diamonds. The idea that diamonds grow in the laboratory like tomatoes in a greenhouse offers a greener view of the product. The communication of those who produce and sell them is based precisely on the idea that diamonds created in the laboratory (but in reality they are factories, as for any other product), are more sustainable. Right? Wrong? We see.
Diamante di laboratorio prodotto da Aether Diamonds
Diamante di laboratorio prodotto da Aether Diamonds

Sustainability
A natural diamond, created 2 or 3 billion years ago by the movement of the earth’s crust, is the result of the incredible pressure caused by the shifting of continents. Natural diamonds are therefore found under the ground. To be mined, diamonds must be searched deep or through large excavations in remote areas. Of course this activity, even if it is well controlled today, cannot be defined as sustainable. But, on the other hand, we must not forget that the extraction of natural diamonds also offers a livelihood for thousands of families in poor areas, such as Africa. Finally, any smartphone that you have in your pocket is the result of the extraction from the earth of a large number of minerals and no one is scandalized.
Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici
Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici

In any case, is it true that lab-created diamonds are green? It depends. First of all, man-made diamonds require an enormous amount of energy to be produced. The vast majority of these diamonds are produced in China and India, but also the United States and Israel, and in many countries, coal-fired plants still represent the predominant source of energy. The emissions caused by the production of lab grown diamonds cannot be considered completely green. Furthermore, few people are needed to produce synthetic diamonds and, therefore, their positive contribution to the social economy is very low.
Ricerca di gemme in miniera
Ricerca di gemme in miniera

How are they produced?
Diamonds that come out of a laboratory are produced using two very different methods: CVD (chemical vapor deposition) and HPHT (high pressure at high temperature). Currently the CVD system seems to prevail and, according to some, even offers a better result. So, if you want to buy a jewel with synthetic diamond, you can take the curiosity to ask what type of factory it was produced from. However, both methods use the same basic material: carbon.

The HPHT system
The HPHT process uses a metal catalyst to dissolve the carbon. This process has a disadvantage: a few tiny pieces of metal can enter the diamond and cause visible inclusions. The carbon used, in fact, is pressed inside a metal cube, exposed to immense heat and pressure through electrical impulses. In this way the carbon breaks down and crystallizes in a diamond. But tiny traces of metal inside could make the diamond attracted to a magnet. It sure wouldn’t be nice to buy a diamond ring and then hang it on the fridge door (we’re kidding).

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio di De Beers

The CVD system
To produce a diamond with the CVD method, a tiny fragment of natural diamond is locked in a machine. Here it is exposed to carbon-rich gas and brought to extremely high temperatures. Within a few weeks, the carbon gas ionizes and the mineral particles stick to the original diamond and then crystallize.
Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD
Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD

Are laboratory diamonds the same as others?
From a chemical point of view, the diamonds produced in the laboratory are the same as those extracted in a mine. They are, therefore, like any mass-produced object. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, have an unpredictability of color, transparency and size that, obviously, is not present in synthetic diamonds.
Punto luce di Lightbox
Punto luce con diamante di laboratorio Lightbox

Are all synthetic diamonds the same?
No, as with natural ones, synthetic diamonds can also have a different quality. It is only recently, however, that the major institutes have begun to classify them. GIA and IGI, for example, judge them by cut, color and clarity, just like natural diamonds. Excellent cut, D to F color and VS2 to SI1 clarity are the best categories.
Diamante di laboratorio del peso di 2 carati, venduto da Lightbox per 1850 euro
Diamante di laboratorio del peso di 2 carati, venduto da Lightbox per 1850 euro

How much does a synthetic diamond cost?
The price of a lab-made diamond is determined by many factors. The first is the size, then from the famous 4 Cs that are used to classify all diamonds. Until recently diamond factories were unable to produce large gems, over one and two carats. It is now much more common and quite large diamonds have also been produced. The price, however, is much higher. In any case, lab grown diamonds cost less than natural ones. Over time, however, their price decreases, that of natural diamonds tends to increase.
Read also: https://gioiellis.com/it/il-futuro-dei-diamanti-di-laboratorio
Anello con diamanti di laboratorio
Anello con diamanti di laboratorio

Features
Laboratory diamonds are as hard and resistant as natural diamonds: they have a rating of 10, which is the highest, on the Mohs scale. Even on a jewel they shine exactly like the others. When buying a diamond jewel can you distinguish if it is natural or synthetic? No, even for a jeweler or gemologist it is impossible to distinguish a natural diamond from an artificial one. However, there are laboratories with special equipment that can identify a diamond created in the laboratory.

Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox
Orecchini lab-grown di Lightbox







From Christie’s an 18.18 carat pink diamond that brings good luck




It is called The Fortune Pink. Could it be because it brings good luck, or because whoever can buy it for sure has had a lot of luck in life? The doubt is destined to remain, also because it is foreseeable that the future buyer of The Fortune Pink will remain anonymous. The gem will be auctioned by Christie’s next December in Geneva. It is a diamond with exceptional characteristics: pear-shaped fancy vivid pink and unusual dimensions for a diamond of this type: it weighs 18.18 carats. And for this it is the largest pear-shaped fancy vivid pink ever put up for auction. The diamond will be the most prized piece of the Magnificent Jewels sale: it is valued between 25 and 35 million dollars.

Il diamante The Fortune Pink, 18,18 carati
Il diamante The Fortune Pink, 18,18 carati

After The Rock, a 228-carat diamond sold this May in Geneva, Christie’s is proud to present The Fortune Pink, the largest pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond up for auction. With its auspicious weight of 18.18 carats, this exceptional pink diamond with a phenomenal color is sure to bring luck to its new owner.
Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International Head of Jewelery

Rahul-Kadakia durante un'asta di Christie's
Rahul-Kadakia durante un’asta di Christie’s

The name of the diamond comes from an interpretation in Chinese. The number that indicates the carats, in fact, can be interpreted as a good omen of prosperity in the Mandarin language. The largest vivid pink diamond sold by Christie’s so far has been the 18.96-carat Winston Pink Legacy, which reached 50 million Swiss francs, a world record. Fortune Pink will be shown in New York on the week of October 3, before touring Shanghai, Taiwan and Singapore. The diamond will then be exhibited to the public during Christie’s Luxury Week at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva from 2 to 8 November.

Il Winston Pink Legacy, diamante rosa da 18,96 carati
Il Winston Pink Legacy, diamante rosa da 18,96 carati







Ajoomal between ancient and modern




Rare stones, refined cuts, tradition and innovation: all this is Harshad Ajoomal, Mumbai’s jeweler ♦ ︎

The briolette cut, with its elongated teardrop shape, is back in fashion in jewelery. This was renewed by Harshad Ajoomal, a Mumbai jeweler who used this form born in the Sixties, which says inspired by the traditional Indian Goswala cut. When gemstones have a briolette cut and are exposed to strong light, each facet reflects the color to create a sparkling kaleidoscope effect. An effect that the Indian designer has applied in the Mozambique collection, dedicated to a country that holds in its mines a great variety of precious stones.

Anello con pietra luna intagliata, diamanti bianchi e brown,  rubellite al centro
Anello con pietra luna intagliata, diamanti bianchi e brown, rubellite al centro

Jealous of Indian tradition and culture, Harshad Ajoomal used this form for the capsule collection made with natural precious stones such as sapphires, tanzanites, peridots and orange amethysts. But also unusual stones, like Namibia pietersite. Harshad Ajoomal, in fact, has always emphasized avant-garde design, precious stones and craftsmanship. It is an Indian brand, but very attentive to the world of Western fashion, as is also evident in the Mozambique collection.

Anello con smeraldo di 8,58 carati dello Zambia e diamanti taglio baguette
Anello con smeraldo di 8,58 carati dello Zambia e diamanti taglio baguette
Medaglione in oro bianco, diamante a goccia, occhio di tigre
Medaglione in oro bianco, diamante a goccia, occhio di tigre
Orecchini Cirque du Noir con onice intagliato, diamanti e oro
Orecchini Cirque du Noir con onice intagliato, diamanti e oro
Orecchini in platino con diamanti
Orecchini in platino con diamanti
Orecchini con conchiglie fossili e diamanti
Orecchini con conchiglie fossili e diamanti
Orecchini in platino con smeraldi, diamanti, tanzanite
Orecchini in platino con smeraldi, diamanti, tanzanite
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro e diamanti







A record pink diamond is on sale at Sotheby’s




An 11-carat pink diamond is a very rare gem. For this reason, the auction by Sotheby’s to be held in Hong Kong on 5 October is a special event also in terms of price: the diamond, which has been called Williamson Pink Star, is valued at over 20 million dollars. It will be sold at a single lot auction. Williamson Pink Star is the result, after cutting, of a diamond that was originally a 32-carat rough stone found in the Williamson mine in Mwadui, Tanzania. It is a mine that has already supplied diamonds with this rare color.

Williamson Pink Star, diamante rosa di 11 carati
Williamson Pink Star, diamante rosa di 11 carati

Diacore purchased the diamond for $ 13.8 million, approximately 427,000 per carat, from the mining company Petra Diamonds in December 2021. The diamond was subsequently cushion-cut and mounted on an 18-karat gold ring, flanked by trapezoid cut diamonds and brilliant cut rose. The gemstone is of impeccable quality and, according to Sotheby’s, is the second largest fancy vivid pink diamond ever to appear at auction, after the 59.60-carat CTF Pink Star, purchased by Chow Tai Fook of China for 71.2 million. dollars in April 2017.

Williamson Pink Star è montato su un anello diamanti taglio trapezio e rosa taglio brillante
Williamson Pink Star è montato su un anello diamanti taglio trapezio e rosa taglio brillante
Il diamante rosa Williamson Pink Star
Il diamante rosa Williamson Pink Star

Il diamante grezzo di 32 carati da cui è stato ricavato The Williamson Pink Star
Il diamante grezzo di 32 carati da cui è stato ricavato The Williamson Pink Star







Who buys laboratory diamonds?




Who buys factory-made diamonds? Synthetic diamonds, from a chemical point of view completely identical to natural ones, are a recent bet on the jewelry market. While until a few years ago these diamonds, produced with different methods, were confined for industrial use (for example, for cutting machines), now artificial diamonds are also more widespread in jewelry. Those who sell them define these stones as “grown” or “grown” in the laboratory. Pay attention to it: the two terms, chosen for marketing, suggest that the stones are like plants that grow or are cultivated in a kind of greenhouse. An idea that has thus been associated with the concept of sustainability: the diamonds that come out of a production plant are green, those extracted from the earth are not. An idea that does not all agree with. Certainly, however, they are cheaper diamonds.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio
Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti ​​in laboratorio

In any case, marketing and advertising are powerful tools, as certified by a market research conducted in the United States by The MVEye. The research identified the buyer groups who, according to the analyst firm, are driving explosive global growth in the lab-grown diamond industry. The company has divided the customers of these synthetic diamonds into several groups. The first group is defined as In the Know (i.e. informed) and is made up of millennials between the ages of 25 and 38. In short, young people who have established that laboratory diamonds are truly green. The group, the survey specifies, includes multiple ethnic groups and non-traditional couples.
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox di De Beers
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox di De Beers

The second group, on the contrary, has been described as In the Dark (that is, they are in the dark). This segment of people is also made up of millennials between the ages of 25 and 38 who, however, have not heard of lab-grown diamonds. On the other hand, according to The MVEye they can easily be persuaded to buy synthetic diamond jewelry. This group also includes multiple ethnicities and non-traditional couples.
Punto luce di Lightbox
Punto luce con diamante di laboratorio Lightbox

The third group detected is that of Upgraders (ie those who like to update themselves on news). They are more mature consumers, aged 55 or over, but ready to buy engagement rings (if they are sprightly) or more easily for some anniversary. They often don’t have much knowledge about lab-grown diamonds, but they might be motivated to buy a larger size diamond if they find that man-made ones are cheaper. In short, it is a question of budget. Finally, another group has been defined as SPF, which stands for Self-purchasing females, that is, women who buy jewelry for themselves. According to the research, they too would be a type of customer ready to buy an artificial diamond thanks to the price advantage.

Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD di De Beers
Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD di De Beers







The extra large luxury of Chatila

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One of the most exclusive jewelery brands in the world is Chatila. The Maison was founded in 1860 and has remained a family-run business, with the founder’s grandchildren actively involved in the day-to-day running of the company. Chatila works in between Geneva and London but, in reality, the jewels are designed in Italy and Paris, even if the gems are then mounted on the final jewel by the craftsmen of the house. If you are looking for a Chatila boutique, try the most luxury shopping streets: there are showrooms in the most prestigious streets, such as Rue du Rhône in Geneva, Old Bond Street in London and Madison Avenue in New York.

Collana di diamanti con sette smeraldi colombiani da 4 a 23 carati
Collana di diamanti con sette smeraldi colombiani da 4 a 23 carati

The history of the Maison, however, does not begin in London, but in Birut, where the founder, George Chatila, opened his shop. It is now the third and fourth generation, Nicholas Chatila and his children, Marwan, Edward and Carlos, who own the business and continue in the footsteps of the founder. In 1983 the company moved to Switzerland. Today a flagship Chatila showroom on Rue du Rhône in Geneva, while the other main one is located in London’s Old Bond Street. A new showroom was opened in Riyadh in 2003 and another, in Doha in 2014.

Anello moi et toi in oro con diamanti fancy
Anello moi et toi in oro con diamanti fancy

Chatila’s specialty is super diamonds. It was among the first, among other things, to use large colored diamonds. Moreover, one of the few red diamonds in the world is by Chatila, The Flame of Argyle. All family members take part in the selection and evaluation process of unique and rare precious stones. An example of rarity is the ring with a 4.29 carat radiant cut chamaleon diamond. The definition of chamaleon refers to the fact that it is a very rare diamond with shades that change according to the intensity of the light that hits it. Also the person who will decides to buy it will probably change color when he will knows the price.

 

Collana di diamanti
Collana di diamanti

Collana con pendente composto da diamanti colorati di diverse tonalità: marrone-verde, marrone, arangio-giallo, arancio-marrone. Peso complessivo di 11,5 carati
Collana con pendente composto da diamanti colorati di diverse tonalità: marrone-verde, marrone, arangio-giallo, arancio-marrone. Peso complessivo di 11,5 carati
Parure di diamanti e smeraldi colombiani
Parure di diamanti e smeraldi colombiani
Anello con smeraldo colombiano di 17 carati e diamanti
Anello con smeraldo colombiano di 17 carati e diamanti
Collana con zaffiro pendente
Collana con zaffiro pendente






New geometries of Etho Maria

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The new uncompromising geometries of Etho Maria, a maison that combines ceramic and diamonds ♦

Born in the home of philosophy, Athens, Etho Maria has chosen the philosophy of luxury with a bit of surprise. The Maison, which from Greece soon expanded to the rest of Europe and the USA, is anchored to the idea of ​​jewelery with much geometry. Not by chance Euclid and Archimedes was not Greek. Geometry, but precious. And surprising. Like when Etho Maria presented a collection that combines red ceramic with sparkling white diamonds. No doubt a combination that has remained in the memory. The idea, among other things, has earned awards such as the Diamond Classic at the Centurion Design Awards 2018 and the Editor’s Choice at the 2017 Centurion Design Awards in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Bracciale in oro con diamanti marquise e ovale, con tocchi di smalto
Bracciale in oro con diamanti marquise e ovale, con tocchi di smalto

In addition to red ceramics, the Maison has also decided to use the ceramic-diamond pair also with other colors, like white. The effect always works. Alongside this series of jewels that use an innovative aesthetic to an equally refined goldsmith technique, the Maison offers more traditional jewels, but always with a design that does not forget the modern style which, for example, does not omit stones cut with the shape of the triangle. Jewels that have been chosen by luxury chains, such as Neiman Marcus or Saks Fifth Avenue for ad hoc sales.

 

Orecchini in oro bianco con zaffiri blu e lapis
Orecchini in oro bianco con zaffiri blu e lapis

Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco con zaffiri blu e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco con zaffiri blu e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti, ceramica
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti, ceramica
Orecchini in oro giallo, diamanti, ceramica
Orecchini in oro giallo, diamanti, ceramica
Collana con zaffiri verdi e diamanti brown
Collana in oro con zaffiri verdi e diamanti brown

Collana  in oro rosa con zaffiri blu e diamanti
Collana in oro rosa con zaffiri blu e diamanti







The jewelry by Mindi Mond




Mindi Mond describes herself as a devoted wife and mother and a dedicated board member of the Thanc Foundation (Thyroid, Head and Neck Cancer). But she is better known, however, as the founder and designer of the Maison that bears her name. He lives and works in New York, but his jewels seem more inspired by the ancient (and also modern) Art Deco. In fact, Mondi says that his mother was a collector of vintage jewelry, including those from the Victorian and Edwardian era.

Bracciale Pearl Spoke in oro giallo, diamanti, perle Akoya
Bracciale Pearl Spoke in oro giallo, diamanti, perle Akoya

A passion that reverberates on the collections that the designer offers: for example, jewels can be made with elements of ancient rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets or watches dismantled and adapted according to the taste of Mindi. But not only of course. They are classy jewels, in 18 or 14 carat gold, but also silver, diamonds, and sometimes colored stones, such as rubellite. Diamonds are the most used stone by the designer, in particular with different cuts mounted on the same jewel.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite
Anello Clarity Cube  Link in oro giallo e  diamanti
Anello Clarity Cube Link in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Clarity Floating diamond in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Clarity Floating diamond in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini Clarity con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini Clarity con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini Fire and Ice in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti
Orecchini Fire and Ice in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti

Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco e diamanti







Diamrusa, the wind of the East

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Diamrusa, a Thai brand specializing in precious stones and high-end jewelery ♦ ︎
Yes, India is the country with the greatest consumption of gold and the jewelery has a ancient tradition. But there is no doubt that nearby Thailand occupies a prominent place for its factories where precious stones and jewels, often of the highest quality, are worked. There are many European Maison that entrust the making of high jewelery, in whole or in part, to the laboratories where expert and skilled Thai artisans work. And so, after all, it is not surprising that one of the companies that partly produce third parties was founded by an Indian diamond dealer, Salil Shah.

Collana con gemme multicolori
Collana con gemme multicolori

In addition to buying and selling stones, in 1986 Salil Shah founded Diamrusa. It is not strange, however, that he chose the country of Southeast Asia, since in Thailand the trader also has been living for over 30 years and where, among other things, he devotes much of his free time to a charity organization engaged in various social awareness activities. Diamrusa is a manufacturer of high-end jewelery. In addition to diamonds, it effortlessly uses rubies, emeralds, sapphires in partly traditional designs, partly oriental for Asian markets. At the Swiss city fair, for example, he exhibited three large impact rings made with traditional gemstones surrounded by pear-cut diamonds.

Orecchini con diamanti e gemme multicolori
Orecchini con diamanti e gemme multicolori
Orecchini con diamanti e tormaline
Orecchini con diamanti e tormaline
Collana e orecchini con rubini e diamanti
Collana e orecchini con rubini e diamanti
Collier con diamanti e smeraldi taglio a goccia
Collier con diamanti e smeraldi taglio a goccia

Diamrusa, collana con diamanti e zaffiro
Diamrusa, collana con diamanti e zaffiro







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