spilla

The bespoke pieces of Fei Liu

The high jewelery by Fei Liu, a Chinese designer who chose England ♦ ︎

Have you ever heard of Chongqing? Probably not, if you are not Chinese. Yet it is a city of central and southern China with a population of about 7-8 million inhabitants, much like London. Perhaps this is why the designer, Fei Liu, when he landed in Britain, chose Birmingham to launch his own brand in 2006. It is a less cyclopic town, that perhaps leaves more room for those who live there and with a good tradition in jewelry.

Orecchini con zaffiri blu, tsavoriti, diamanti
Earrings with blue sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds

And so, Fei Liu in a few years has won a burst of awards. Alongside most of its production, innovative and direct to a vast audience (see also: Fei Liu, China in England), the designer works even at bespoke pieces, such as those on this page. For these pieces, he use platinum, gold and silver, in addition to precious stones, in truly original combinations, such as the white poppy-inspired brooch,with stem made with tsavorite, Australian opal for petals, and diamonds on the stamens like dewdrops, while a jade shines in the center.

Orecchini con topazio blu e quarzo citrino
Earrings with blue topaz and citrine quartz
Orecchini con turchese intagliato
Earrings with carved turquoise
Orecchini con opale e topazio
Earrings with opal and topaz
Orecchini in oro con tormalina verde e malachite
Gold earrings with green tourmaline and malachite

Contemporary art becomes a jewel with De Meo

Art, crafts, goldsmithing. Three words that run after each other and, at times, come together in the work of someone who does not chase fashions, but an idea. As in the case of Corrado De Meo, an artist and jeweler outside the box, who lives and works in Livorno (Italy). Even his professional career does not follow the usual patterns: he graduated in sociology, then he traveled all over the world and discovered the fascination of ethnic cultures. Until 2005, when a jewelery exhibition at Palazzo Medici Riccardi, in Florence in which he participates, marks the turning point: he decides to create jewelery-works.

Spilla Rebirth in argento ossidato, tessuto
Rebirth brooch in oxidized silver, fabric

Over time, his contemporary art sculptures transformed into brooches and rings have participated in various exhibitions. The Museo degli Argenti of Palazzo Pitti in Florence, in the permanent collection, houses one of his works. De Meo also participated in the Beijing International Jewelry Art Biennial in China and in the Dialoghi / Dialogues AGC-JJDA project in Tokyo. He uses the most diverse materials, from silver to polystyrene, from pearls to wood. Of course, they are not common jewels to wear, but perhaps to be observed.

Spilla in argento, cartapesta, pittura acrilica
Brooch in silver, papier-mâché, acrylic paint
Spilla in argento, legno, pittura acrilica
Brooch in silver, wood, acrylic paint
Spilla in resina epossidica, pittura arilica, ossido di argento, perle
Brooch in epoxy resin, arylic paint, silver oxide, pearls
Spilla in polisitorolo, vernice acrilica, perle, ossido d'argento
Brooch in polysitorol, acrylic paint, pearls, silver oxide

Paint, the color of Francesca Mo




Brushstrokes of color that become jewels, or vice versa. It is the inspiring motif of Paint, a collection by the Milanese designer Francesca Mo (they are on display at the Galleria Subert in Milan until December 22, 2022) together with other collections. The designer, who is also an architect, has always used color to characterize her collections, such as those inspired by glass frosted by the waves of the sea. And the Paint collection also uses glass to compose pendants and brooches.

Spilla della collezione Paint
Spilla della collezione Paint

The jewels are made of lampworked glass, i.e. flamed. The traditional technique of the Murano glass masters consists in using the flame of a torch, which melts the glass to create their own sculptures, in this case to be worn. The result is brooches and pendants which, precisely because of the particular manufacturing technique, are unique pieces with a shape that recalls a thick colored liquid about to pour. The glass element is supported by bronze or gold wires. Prices: from 490 euros for the brooch and from 1,000 euros for the necklace.
Collana con pendente in vetro
Collana con pendente in vetro

Spilla di Francesca Mo
Spilla di Francesca Mo
Spilla in vetro verde
Spilla in vetro verde
Pendente della collezione Paint
Pendente della collezione Paint

Collana della collezione Paint
Collana della collezione Paint







Aigrette, a jewel on the head




Do you know what an aigrette is? It is a jewel that serves to highlight the hair and face. That’s what the aigrette is, which is back in fashion ♦

If they ask you if you want to wear an aigrette, don’t blink as if you were asked to invent a new algorithm. Simply put, an aigrette is a feather-shaped piece of jewelry that adorns a hat or is used as a hair clip. It went out of fashion from the late nineteenth century to the first half of the twentieth century. It has now been reevaluated.

Aigrette in oro bianco, opale d'Etiopia,250 diamanti, 34 tormaline blu, 22 tanzanite violette, di Chaumet
Aigrette in oro bianco, opale d’Etiopia,250 diamanti, 34 tormaline blu, 22 tanzanite violette, di Chaumet

You should know, though, that aigrette is a French word that indicates a volatile, the egret, or white heron. The feathers of this bird have been used to compose these brooch from head for a long time, only to be supplanted by jewelry made only of metal and precious stones. Perhaps the most famous jewels of this type are the Aigrettes Cartier, become an essential part of the evening dresses provided by the famous couturier in London, House of Worth, which was all the rage in the early twentieth century. She wore one the actress Carey Mulligan during the shooting of the film The Great Gatsby, set in the twenties.

Carey Mulligan nel film «Il grande Gatsby»
Carey Mulligan nel film «Il grande Gatsby»

A very special example of aigrette is the peacock-shaped one of the Parisian jeweler Mellerio. The jewel belonged to Anita Delgado, the fifth Spanish wife of Kapurthala’s maharaja. The maharaja had purchased the aigrette before meeting his future wife, a flamenco dancer, and had given it to him during their civil wedding ceremony in Paris. The ornament is made of gold, diamonds and enamel.

L'aigrette a forma di pavone che fa parte oggi della collezione Al Thani
L’aigrette a forma di pavone che fa parte oggi della collezione Al Thani

This gem was also appreciated by men, but in the East. Aigrette, studded with diamonds and rubies, they decorated the turbans of the sultans in Istanbul. Many of these plumes are now on display in the halls of Topkapi Treasury. An aigrette was worn once even by senior officers of the French army. The most famous, however, is The Eye of the Tiger, diamond mounted by Cartier in an aigrette for the turban of Jam Sahib, Maharajah of Nawanagar, in 1934.

Ornamento per turbante del Maharaja di Nawanagar, circa 1907
Ornamento per turbante del Maharaja di Nawanagar, circa 1907
Jam Sahib, Maharajah di Nawanagar, con la spilla per turbante di Cartier
Jam Sahib, Maharajah di Nawanagar, con la spilla per turbante di Cartier
Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin
Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin
Spilla per copricapo in oro e diamanti di Cartier
Spilla per copricapo in oro e diamanti di Cartier
Spilla per capo fine Ottocento
Spilla per capo fine Ottocento
Ritratto Mathilde Querini con aigrette, di Pietro Longhi, Louvre
Ritratto Mathilde Querini con aigrette, di Pietro Longhi, Louvre







A new Garrard pin for the Queen




The queen’s jeweler could not remain indifferent to the queen’s jubilee. Garrard, London-based Maison that has a long tradition with Her Majesty’s jewels, has decided to celebrate the anniversary of Queen Elizabeth’s crowning with some special creations. And this is nothing new: in 2018, for the 65th anniversary of the coronation, the Maison presented the Garrard Jubilee Sapphire, a stone of exceptional rarity and beauty, with a weight of 118.88 carats, a size rarely seen for this reason. kind of gems. And, with the shade that is the blue that is the color of the Windsors.

Il disegno della spilla con zaffiro di 118,88 carati e diamanti
Il disegno della spilla con zaffiro di 118,88 carati e diamanti

Five years later, for the 2022 jubilee, Garrard created a limited edition enamel brooch and pendant. The Jubilee brooch features the jeweler’s iconic motif around a 4.9-carat London Blue topaz. The Sovereign motif found in both the unique brooch and enamel pendant dates back to 1910: its creation was inspired by the legendary 530-carat Cullinan I diamond. The brooch resembles a peacock feather and can also be worn as a hair jewelry or hat accessory. The pendant also uses deep blue enamel and white diamonds.
La spilla per il giubileo 2022
La spilla per il giubileo 2022

Garrard has a long history with the British royal family. The jewelry was founded in 1735 by the silversmith George Wicks. Garrard was immediately chosen by Frederick, Prince of Wales, and in 1843 he became the first official jeweler. He has created everything from the imperial crown to Princess Diana’s engagement ring.

Ciondolo in oro bianco e smalto blu
Ciondolo in oro bianco e smalto blu
Garrard Jubilee Sapphire
Garrard Jubilee Sapphire
1953, incoranzione della regina Elisabetta d'Inghilterra
1953, incoronazione della regina Elisabetta d’Inghilterra, assieme al principe Filippo, con la corona adattata da Garrard







How to choose the brooch




The brooch is back in fashion: but how to choose it? ♦ ︎

Who knows why, the brooch has gone through years of oblivion. Forgotten, neglected, even despised. The brooch was seen as the jewel that grandmother used, an heirloom to keep in the drawer if it is a special inheritance or, at most, a decoration to wear if the object has a particular meaning, such as initials, the symbol of some importantly, a jewel associated with special events. Until yesterday. Because the brooch is back in fashion, rightly awakened from the deep sleep in which it had been asleep. Great jewelery houses have proposed luxurious brooches based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. But even the small brands have decided that the brooch has every right to be a jewel to be displayed on an item of clothing such as jackets, blouses, shirts or dresses.

Ai Tominaga con una spilla della collezione The Japanese Sense of Beauty
Ai Tominaga con una spilla della collezione The Japanese Sense of Beauty by Mikimoto

And it does not mean that the brooches have to be made of precious metal such as platinum or gold. There are also interesting brooches in bronze or silver. Mind you: nothing so new. On the contrary, it is a precious recovery: the use of brooches was already in fashion among the ancient Romans and Greeks, but also among the Celts and the Etruscans. And, going even further in time, the oldest brooches found in Europe are those of the Bronze Age.

Indossato di una delle 12 principesse della fiaba «Le scarpe logorate dal ballo», spilla
Indossato di una delle 12 principesse della fiaba «Le scarpe logorate dal ballo», spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels

How to choose the brooch? There are different types of brooches. To distinguish them, it is good to consider what their use will be. Because a brooch can be worn simply as a jewel on which to focus the gaze, with an exclusively aesthetic function. But a brooch can also be used to lock a scarf, to close two flaps of a dress, to shorten a too deep neckline. In short, before choosing a brooch, think about what the use of the jewel or simple bijoux will be. In addition, the shape of the brooch must also be consistent with use: a precious jewel, to be displayed on an elegant dress, can also have a slightly more complicated closure. On the contrary, if a brooch is to be pleasant, but also practical, it must be carefully tried before purchase: it must open and close easily.

Spilla in argento rodiato, cubic zirconia neri, smalto bianco
Spilla in argento rodiato, cubic zirconia neri, smalto bianco by Misis

Style. There is no classic style for brooches. Indeed, the jewelers have indulged the imagination in creating the strangest and most surprising shapes. The brooch is a jewel that must attract attention, so you must not resign yourself to choosing an inconspicuous piece, unless it is a minimal geometry that is part of a more comprehensive way of dressing. Of course, for an elegant evening a gold and diamond brooch is the most classic choice. Flowers, fruits, animals, art deco colors: you can find all kinds of brooches and they are all right. The choice has a single restriction: the jewel must represent the personality or state of mind of the wearer.

Suzanne Belperron, spilla mélange con acquamarina, rubino e diamanti montati in oro giallo
Suzanne Belperron, spilla mélange con acquamarina, rubino e diamanti montati in oro giallo

Spilla Noeud in oro bianco, lacca e diamanti, girocollo Ruban in oro biancio e diamanti. Photo: Boucheron
Spilla Noeud in oro bianco, lacca e diamanti, girocollo Ruban in oro biancio e diamanti. Photo: Boucheron

Spilla con due perle di Tahiti
Spilla con due perle di Tahiti by Buccellati

Spilla con diamanti, cacholong e titanio
Spilla con diamanti, cacholong e titanio di Jar

Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, lapis e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, lapis e cristallo di rocca di Vhernier

Spille di Mikimoto
Spille di Mikimoto







The high jewelery blooms with La Fleur

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The jewelery pieces signed by La Fleur Jewels. Made in Bangkog, it’s hard to guess it, but… ♦ ︎
To say that La Fleur Jewels does not exist is probably wrong. But try searching this company online: you will waste time. Behind La Fleur Jewels, headquartered in Bangkoh, there is one of the many jewelery manufacturers on behalf of many of the great European and American Maison that designs at home and then make the most complex, delicate parts in Thailand. Then microscopic parts of jewels that are assembled at home and thus acquire the right to be classified as Made in … After this premise, it is enough to observe the work with the mystery setting technique, that is, with the setting without griffes of small stones next to each other, to understand that the La Fleur brand is well-versed in this type of workmanship. And, learned the style, the company decided to produce precious jewels with this French-flavored brand.

Anello con zaffiro giallo
Anello con zaffiro giallo

They are pieces of high jewelery: if instead of the La Fleur brand they had that of some other jewelry brand, nobody would have anything to complain about. And, apart from technique, the design of pins, pendants and rings reminds that of other jewels with other brands. But whoever goes to the substance, and here there is a lot, maybe it will not matter to all this.

Collana in oro bianco con zaffiri blu
Collana in oro bianco con zaffiri blu
Anello a due dita in oro bianco, setting di rubini, diamanti
Anello a due dita in oro bianco, setting di rubini, diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini a sfera in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a sfera in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a orchidea in oro giallo, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a orchidea in oro giallo, zaffiri, diamanti

Spilla ballerina con diamanti e rubini. Per realizzarla sono necessari due mesi di lavoro
Spilla ballerina con diamanti e rubini. Per realizzarla sono necessari due mesi di lavoro







Surprising Scala Gioielli

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The small masterpieces by Scala Gioielli, goldsmith’s virtuosity in Marcianise ♦ ︎

Italy is the country with an advanced economy that has the highest percentages of family businesses. This is also true in jewelery and is also why small exceptional handicrafts abound, while lacking (with few exceptions) large specimens such as the French Maisons. An example is Scala Gioielli, a company based in the Orafi Center in Marcianise, Caserta. Born in 1980 in Naples on the initiative of Eduardo Scala, is managed by the founder of the company, by his wife Caterina, and by her children Luca, Daniele and Alessandro. Almost 40 years have passed, but the company continues to hold the flag of quality craftsmanship high.

Bracciale di perle su oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, rubini, smeraldi
Bracciale di perle su oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, rubini, smeraldi

As you can expect from a brand that works in the Naples area, Scala Gioielli excels in the art of coral processing. Bracelets, elaborate necklaces, pendants that are small sculptures are part of the catalog of the Maison. But not only: Scala Gioielli knows how to produce pieces of surprising goldsmith virtuosity. For example, the 18-carat white gold-plated brooch with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, with the central body of the bird-brooch made of a Brazilian aquamarine. Or in the Moro Venetian brooch, in yellow gold and 18k white gold, with ebony bust surrounded by brilliant cut diamonds, emeralds and colored sapphires. A small masterpiece.

Anello in oro giallo e bianco 14 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo e bianco 14 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo con zaffiri e pietre semi preziose
Anello in oro giallo con zaffiri e pietre semi preziose
Orecchini in oro 14 carati, diamanti, corniola, ametista, tormalina, agata, madreperla
Orecchini in oro 14 carati, diamanti, corniola, ametista, tormalina, agata, madreperla
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamanti e acquamarina brasiliana
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamanti e acquamarina brasiliana
Anello in oro 18 carati con smeraldi
Anello in oro 18 carati con smeraldi
Anello in oro giallo 14 carati, diamanti e opale australiano
Anello in oro giallo 14 carati, diamanti e opale australiano
Spilla montata in oro bianco 18 kt, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiri e rubini, il corpo centrale è costituito da una acquamarina brasiliana
Spilla montata in oro bianco 18 kt, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiri e rubini, il corpo
centrale è costituito da una acquamarina brasiliana

Scala Gioielli, spilla Moro Veneziano montata in oro giallo e oro bianco 18 kt, busto in ebano contornato da diamanti taglio brillante, smeraldi e zaffiri colorati
Scala Gioielli, spilla Moro Veneziano montata in oro giallo e oro bianco 18 kt, busto in ebano contornato da diamanti taglio brillante, smeraldi e zaffiri colorati







The Palloncino by Vhernier flies on a ring




The Palloncino (balloon) was the first jewel to take flight in 1984, when the Maison was founded. But the Palloncino collection by Vhernier continues to float in the catalog of the Valenza-based brand. At the beginning of its history, the innovative shape of the jewel, reminiscent of the light balloon tied to a thread that is given to children, was reserved for single earrings, which can also be worn as brooches. Made of white gold, with the cord that becomes a diamond pavé wire, the single earring is combined with carnelian and rock crystal ovals, with a transparency effect that is Vhernier’s trademark.

Anello Palloncino con giada
Anello Palloncino con giada

Variants also include lapis lazuli, jade, turquoise, mother of pearl and rhodonite. The collection is now enriched with a ring. Also in this case the stem is in white gold with diamonds, with the central body with balloon-shaped stones juxtaposed with rock crystal. The cheerful and minimal effect is thus transferred to the fingers with the same visual impact of the original brooch-earrings.
Anello Palloncino con lapislazzulo
Anello Palloncino con lapislazzulo

La famiglia di orecchini-spilla Palloncino
La famiglia di orecchini-spilla Palloncino
Anello Palloncino con turchese
Anello Palloncino con turchese
Anello Palloncino con rodonite
Anello Palloncino con rodonite

Anello Palloncino con madreperla
Anello Palloncino con madreperla







Pearls for eternity with tinyOm

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The tinyOm jewelry: 18K gold and Bahraini pearls ♦ ︎

TinyOm founder Virginie Dreyer, a former lawyer in Paris, defines her business as “jewelery for the Soul”. In short, jewels for the spirit, more than for vanity. As, moreover, the name of the small Maison indicates, which incorporates the suffix om, a Tibetan mantra inspired by the creation of the universe. Virginie moved to the Middle East for family reasons, studied graphics and design and, attracted by the goldsmiths and crafts of Bahrain, her adopted country, she began to create jewelry. She is passionate about yoga, which she practices and teaches, as well as inspiring her jewelry.

Orecchini della collezione Seeding
Orecchini della collezione Seeding

The small 18-karat gold threads that make up the jewels are combined with small Bahraini pearls, which for Tiny Om “are the rarest and most exceptional for their unique nature: they are born where fresh water springs burst into the salty water of the sea, acquiring an extraordinary brightness thanks to this unusual contrast ”. Rare, in short, but not excessively, given that the tinyOm jewels have prices that do not exceed $ 700.

How to choose a brooch




How to choose a brooch? Here are the things you should know before choosing a brooch and advice on how to wear it  ♦

For a long time they have been little considered. The broochs were reminded of the jewels of the grandmother, because once the brooch was an inevitable element of a scarf or pinned to the dress of a lady. Sure, there have been pieces of sublime jewelry but, in general, the pins were left in shadow. Now, however, the broochs are back. Of class or simply amusing, they can be a creativity more element in clothing: in winter to stop the wool scarves, in summer to pinned on cotton clothes or on a hat, or to enrich in the lapel of a jacket.

Delfina Delettrez con una spilla in diamanti e smeraldi
Delfina Delettrez con una spilla in diamanti e smeraldi

An ancient history. On the other hand, that the brooch was not destined to go down it’s also indicates by its long life: the ancient Romans called it fibula, it’s an ornament that has been appreciated for millennia. And not only by the ancient Romans: the fibula (fibulae to plural) was a closure used to stop the fabrics also by Greeks, Germanic peoples and the Celts, up from the early Bronze Age. The buckles and oldest pins were made of bones, then it was the turn of the bronze, iron and gold.

Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick Wolfenbüttel Bevern con spilla, ritratto del 1740
Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick Wolfenbüttel Bevern con spilla, ritratto del 1740

The shapes. In general, the pins are composed of four elements: the body, the pin, the spring and hinge. The body is the part decorated, one immediately visible. The other elements, instead, used to make practical the locking mechanism, both in the case that the jewel will serve as a simple ornament, is that its use is practical, that is, to secure the cloth of clothes.

Michael Koors, spilla con cristalli
Michael Koors, spilla con cristalli

Evolution. From simple fibulae in antiquity, the brooch has evolved especially since the Middle Ages, with the introduction of more complex shapes. The two most common from 1200 onwards are the ring brooch, with designs square and lobed, or with flowers. Have been introduced, in addition, the flat pins (badges), which reported figures of people or animals. These pins are also used as instrument of recognition or belonging to a class or category. The badge of the pilgrims or service workers in stately homes were simpler and poor materials, such as lead. The pins were then also used to report the honors and, in this case, are obviously more elaborate and composed of noble materials.

Ritratto della collezionista Barbara Berger, che indossa una spilla a forma di peonia disaegnata da lei
Ritratto della collezionista Barbara Berger, che indossa una spilla a forma di peonia disaegnata da lei

Styles. The pins have followed the evolution of style jewelry. There are so elaborate brooches old Victorian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco style, geometric designs, with animals, human figures, flowers, fruits: there is no limit to what can be represented on a brooch.

La regina Elisabetta con spilla di diamanti
La regina Elisabetta con spilla di diamanti

How to choose a brooch. A pin can draw attention to the person wearing it, but it should be carefully chosen. Better not to wear a pin that does lay eyes on one side of the not perfect fit body. Nothing pins too close to a large neck: in this case better wear a brooch on the hat, or down on the lapel of his jacket. A large brooch is a brilliant idea if it is not disproportionate to the wearer: the size must be proportional to the size and shape of the body. An unexceptional dress can be revitalized by a pin, as long as the jewel does not stress a poor fabric. Make a distinction between the daytime pins (the liveliest) and those for the evening: they are two completely different jewelry. They are ok, however, for the pins that indicate a group identity or social identity, which contain a message, an attitude or a hobby. In short, a pin can also be a nice business card to show who you meet.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's)
Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby’s)
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels

Modella con spilla e orecchino di alta gioielleria Dauphin
Modella con spilla e orecchino di alta gioielleria Dauphin







The return of the Vhernier’s Bruco




It is not easy make a worm appear precious, but Vhernier performs the miracle with the historical Bruco (caterpillar) brooch. Unjustly snubbed, the caterpillar is instead the sign of the spring transformation, an insect ready to transform itself into a butterfly. The caterpillar pins by Vhernier, now re-proposed precisely on the occasion of spring, are the combination of elegance and humor. They are offered in different versions: in white gold, diamonds and rock crystal, with agate, carnelian and lapis lazuli.

Spille Bruco
Spille Bruco

Mounted on white gold, with legs and a diamond pavé head, the Bruco is also available in jade, with onyx, carnelian, lapis lazuli, agate or mother of pearl. In all, the body is sculpted in a rock crystal which, superimposed on the stones, amplifies their shapes and enhances the color thanks to the technique of transparencies, in which Vhernier is a master.
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, agata gialla e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, agata gialla e cristallo di rocca

The Caterpillar is part of the Animalier collection, which began in 1990 with the Tucano brooch, which was followed by the crab, turtle, frog, snake, lizard, chameleon, penguin brooches.
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, corniola e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, corniola e cristallo di rocca

Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, giada e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, giada e cristallo di rocca

Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, lapis e cristallo di rocca
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, lapis e cristallo di rocca







The grandmother’s turquoise for the Queen

Queen Elizabeth appeared on television for a message to the nation. And to make news are (also) her jewels. On the other hand, it was inevitable that, in addition to attention to the topic addressed by the queen (the coronavirus emergency), attention was also focused on the look of the sovereign. Also because the choice of jewelry for such an important moment could not be accidental. And the queen’s main choice fell on pearls. In fact, it is said that they are always fine.

La regina Elisabetta indossa una collana con tre fili di perle e una spilla con diamanti e turchese
La regina Elisabetta indossa una collana con tre fili di perle e una spilla con diamanti e turchese

But not only, together with the necklace with three strands of natural pearls, Her Majesty wore a brooch that comes from his vast collection of jewels. It is the brooch that belonged to Queen Mary with turquoise and diamonds. Queen Mary, wife of George V and grandmother of Queen Elizabeth, received the brooch in 1893 as a wedding gift from her in-laws, the future King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, at that time Prince and Princess of Wales.
La regina Elisabetta indossa gli orecchini con perle
La regina Elisabetta indossa gli orecchini con perle e la collana a tre fili

Queen Elizabeth inherited the brooch, which however remained in the drawer (at least it was not worn in public) until 2014. In this case the brooch was in tune with the turquoise green color of the dress. As a stone, turquoise is often associated with calm, but also with wisdom, care and healing. And it is no coincidence that the queen spoke of the coronavirus.
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio

La regina Elisabetta con spilla di diamanti
La regina Elisabetta con spilla di diamanti







Dorotheum will auction off the Habsburg jewels

At the auction of Dorotheum tiara and brooch of Maria Valeria, Archduchess of Austria ♦ ︎

The charm of ancient nobility is often present in jewelery auctions. Dorotheum knows it well, and in Vienna on November 27 it will sell a diadem and brooch of Maria Valeria, daughter of the Empress Elisabeth. Maria Valeria was the favorite daughter of Elizabeth Amalia Eugenia of Wittelsbach, Duchess of Bavaria who, with her marriage to Francis Joseph, became empress of Austria, apostolic queen of Hungary, queen of Bohemia and Croatia.

Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

The two precious jewels owned by Maria Valeria are a diadem set with 15 oriental pearls and 25 carat diamonds, and an equally magnificent brooch, so-called corsage: two pieces that amaze not only with their diamonds, but also for the numerous and very rare oriental pearls, then fashionable all over Europe, symbol of beauty, power and influence. The two jewels are considered to be in excellent condition. The estimate ranges from 100,000 to 200,000 euros (for the diadem) and from 60,000 to 100,000 euros (for the brooch).
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

In 1890, when Archduchess Maria Valeria married Archduke Francesco Salvatore of Austria-Tuscany, jeweler A. E. Köchert was a third-generation court and Imperial-Royal Chamber supplier. It was he who executed the brooch around 1890. It was Wilhelm Friedrich Haarstrick, until 1891 authorized signatory and head of the atelier, who designed the diadem.
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

Elisabetta d'Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Elisabetta d’Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter







The music of Swarovski

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Swarovski necklaces, bracelets and brooches inspired by the music world for the autumn-winter 2019 ♦ ︎

A note, in music, is represented with a graphic sign used to indicate a certain sound. In modern western music the notes are written on the staff, so as to indicate both the height and duration of the sound. In the world of bijoux, instead, they are represented by Swarovski signed bracelets, necklaces and brooches.

Bracciale con cristalli Swarovski
Bracciale con cristalli Swarovski

In fact, among the novelties of the autumn-winter season of the Austrian company famous for its crystals, there are also bijoux inspired by the theme of musical notes. Not only: there is also a necklace with a pendant depicting the keys of a piano. Wearing them can be a very fast way to communicate your predilection for melodies, rap, classical, hip-hop or whatever you want. But even if you don’t listen to much music, a little jewel inspired by the world of notes can be pleasant. Alessia Mongrando





Collana con cristalli Swarovski ispirata alla musica
Collana con cristalli Swarovski ispirata alla musica

Collana con pendente a forma di tastiera di pianoforte
Collana con pendente a forma di tastiera di pianoforte
Collana con pendente
Collana con pendente

Spille a forma di nota musicale
Spille a forma di nota musicale







54 clips by Van Cleef & Arpels





The most beautiful clips by Van Cleef & Arpels gathered in an exhibition in Paris. Here are some ♦ ︎

The clip, if you read the definition, is a spring clip of various types and for different uses. All right, but the clip can also exist for another, unique, different reason: to be admired itself. This is the case with high-jewelry clips, which usually stop nothing, close or serve anything but show their own beauty. Back in fashion after years of oblivion, the brooch has a second youth. And remember what happens when the fine jewelry marries the art of goldsmithing thinks about Van Cleef & Arpels, who in Paris, in the luxurious venue at 20 Place Vendôme, has organized an exhibition of his most famous clips: from the famous dancers, animals, flowers.

The exhibition is titled Le clip, a bijou de style et d’élégance and contains 54 pieces from Maison’s heritage collection, accompanied by drawings and videos.

Chrysanthème, esposto anche al  Musée des Arts Decoratifs
Chrysanthème, spilla con rubini e diamanti esposta anche al Musée des Arts Decoratifs

It is also an opportunity to revisit fashions and forms linked to historical periods from the 1920s to today. Wheat, feathers, perfect hoops, lace knots, lions and chicks, fairies that are pinned on evening or day dresses, on different occasions. But always as a distinctive sign: not everyone can wear these small works of art.
Boutique Van Cleef & Arpels
Heritage Gallery
20 Place Vendôme 75001, Paris
From 21 January to 30 March 2019
from Monday to Saturday from 11 to 19





Clip Danseuse (1947) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Danseuse (1947) © Van Cleef & Arpels

Clip Orchidea (1927) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Orchidea (1927) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Lion (1967) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Lion (1967) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Lace Bow (1949) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Lace Bow (1949) © Van Cleef & Arpels

Clip Fairy Dragonfly (1941) © Van Cleef & Arpels
Clip Fairy Dragonfly (1941) © Van Cleef & Arpels







Cindy Chao’s jewels at Tefaf





High jewelery: Cindy Chao debuts at Tefaf with the new masterpieces Blacklabel ♦ ︎

A titanium brooch, with 1,369 diamonds, 705 tsavorites, 450 yellow diamonds, 28 cabochon emeralds and two larger emeralds for a total of 52.44 carats. These stones are mounted so that the jewel can also move. The Flower Bud brooch is the masterwork, among other masterwork, of the Black Label Masterpiece, which at the haute couture week in Paris celebrated the birthday number 15 of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel.

Cindy Chao, spilla Flower Bud
Cindy Chao, spilla Flower Bud

The designer born in Taiwan, in fact, has climbed the top positions in the world of high jewelery in a relatively short time. Her jewels are already legend. Like the red peony shape brooch with 2485 rubies and 668 diamonds on purple titanium and yellow and white gold. It took more than 10,000 hours of work to produce it. Perhaps it’s more serene thanks to the yoga lessons that the designer organized twice a week with her team, to ease the pressure of work. The next appointment, in fact, is challenging: the debut at the Tefaf in Maastricht, a particularly selective fair.

Spilla Peonia, vincitrice dell'Outstandg Objects Award alla Masterpiece Fair del 2018, a Londra
Spilla Peonia, vincitrice dell’Outstandg Objects Award alla Masterpiece Fair del 2018, a Londra

But pieces like the Greenovia brooch, designed around a 105-carat cat’s eye chrysoberyl, titanium, 18-carat white and gold, silver, diamonds, emeralds, demantoid garnet, tsavorite, alexandrite and green sapphire, can satisfy even the most demanding fond of high jewelry. And of art, of course. Giulia Netrese

Where fly Jacob & Co




Three brooches signed by Jacob & Co in the shape of a bee: this is the Abielle mini-collection ♦

For some time the brooches are back in fashion, much to the surprise of those who thought they were a mania of the grandmother. Forget that: the brooches enliven a dress, concentrate attention, enrich an outfit. In short, they serve. In addition, the brooches also allow you to add a touch of transgression or, at least, of originality. In fact, they often have the shape of flowers or insects. As in the case of the Abielle mini-collection by Jacob & Co.

The collection consists of three bee-shaped brooches. To note the curious variant of the word bee in French (abeille) that here is turned into Abielle.

Jacob & Co, spilla con rubini
Jacob & Co, spilla con rubini

In any case, the three bees of the collection are made of white gold with small brilliant cut diamonds that make up the upper part of the body, while the lower one is made up of an invisible setting of blue or yellow sapphires, or rubies. The eyes of the insect brooch are of a different stone: sapphires if the body is of rubies and vice versa.




Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri blu
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri blu

Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri gialli
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri gialli
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rubini
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rubini

Jacob & Co, collezione Abielle
Jacob & Co, collezione Abielle







Van Cleef & Arpels, fairytale music

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The Bremen musicians play a symphony for Van Cleef & Arpels ♦ ︎

From Paris to Bremen. The road is that of the Grimm brothers, who wrote at the beginning of the nineteenth century the fable Town Musicians of Bremen. The address is that of Van Cleef & Arpels, who conceived the collection of fine jewelry Quatre contes de Grimm, which we talked about here. The collection includes four fairy tales: The Twelve Dancing Princesses, The Golden Bird, The Three Feathers, Town Musicians of Bremen. This last fairy tale begins like this: “Once upon a time there was a donkey that carried heavy bags of flour every day. Just as his forces were dwindling more and more, one morning he heard his master announce that he would replace him. At these words the donkey escaped and took the road to Bremen “.
It was not easy to translate the fairy tale into a collection of fine jewelry. Van Cleef & Arpels has succeeded in this way: in the dark forest, Bremen musicians suddenly see the light of a window. This image becomes a bracelet with a halo of white and pink diamonds surrounding the central stone, with black spinels, onyx and round and baguette diamonds. “The distant clarity of the house is so evoked in a contrast of colors and materials that evokes an impression of splendor and brightness”.
In Grimm’s story, the animals triumph over brigands joining. The episode is evoked with the earrings that use Pierres de Caractére, with 14 yellow diamonds cut to pink for a total of 18.18 carats, diamonds. The pendants of the earrings are removable.
On the night of the fairy tale, the Sous la lune necklace shines with a rare ensemble of five rows of deep blue Burmese sapphires, for a total of 647.02 carats. Below, stands a pendant designed around a generous 29.44 carat emerald cabochon of Colombia. The pendant (with a perforated motif that evokes the deep forest of the fairy tale) is removable and can be worn alone as a clip. So, as in the fairy tale, fantasy is the winner.




Bracciale Lumiére. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa
Bracciale Lumiére. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa
Bracciale Lumiére. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa (retro)
Bracciale Lumiére. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa (retro)
Bracciale Lumiére aperto. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa (retro)
Bracciale Lumiére aperto. Spinelli neri, onice, diamanti bianchi e rosa
Orecchini Victoire. 14 diamanti gialli taglio a rosa per un totale di 18,18 carati, diamanti. Con pendenti amovibili
Orecchini Victoire. 14 diamanti gialli taglio a rosa per un totale di 18,18 carati, diamanti. Con pendenti amovibili
Collana Sous la lune. Cabochon di smeraldo di 29,44 carati (Colombia), 464 sfere di zaffiro per un totale di 647,02 carati (Birmania), zaffiri, smeraldi, diamanti. Collana con clip amovibile
Collana Sous la lune. Cabochon di smeraldo di 29,44 carati (Colombia), 464 sfere di zaffiro per un totale di 647,02 carati (Birmania), zaffiri, smeraldi, diamanti. Collana con clip amovibile







Three feathers for Van Cleef & Arpels

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The collection of Van Cleef & Arpels inspired by the fairy tale The three feathers of the brothers Grimm ♦ ︎

“Once upon a time there was an old king who had three sons. If the two elders seemed sociable and wise, the last one spoke so little that he was nicknamed the Idiot. Feeling that his end was approaching, the king gathered them and said to them: My three beloved children, I do not know who of you will succeed me on the throne. That’s why I entrust you with a mission: go and travel the world. Those of you who will bring me the most beautiful and refined carpet will inherit my kingdom. “Fairy tales, you know, tell adventures that have a moral, a teaching for children (and not only). Like the fairy tale The three feathers of the Grimm brothers, which has been translated into a collection of fine jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels. The collection is part of a larger collection called Quatre contes de Grimm, which we talked about here. The fairy tales are The Twelve Dancing Princesses, The Golden Bird, The Three Feathers, Town Musicians of Bremen.

Clip Panache MystОrieux. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail zaffiri colorati, diamanti
Clip Panache MystОrieux. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail zaffiri colorati, diamanti

Therefore, feathers could not be found in the collection. As in the Panache Mystérieux clip, in the shape of feathers, with round cut diamonds and baguette with colored sapphires. The Serti Mystérieux Vitrail technique was used for the pin. Presented by the Maison in 2014, it allows multiplying the plays of reflections, nuances and relief, enhancing the translucent appearance of the stones. Blue, mauve and yellow sapphires create a velvety surface. The cut each stone has been meticulously placed on the front, giving it a delicate roundish, and faceted on the verso to increase its brilliance. Each stone is inserted into the gold frame, which however remains invisible on both sides of the jewel. A magic worthy of a fairy tale, in short. The Trio précieux clip is also part of the collection dedicated to feathers, with a Fancy Vivid Yellow yellow cut cushion of 2.51 carats. Sautoir Serapi is a great impact, with a cushion-cut blue sapphire of 13.01 carats (from Sri Lanka), a pink cushion-cut sapphire of 3.08 carats (Burma), ruby, pink and blue sapphires, white cultured pearls , coral, diamonds. The sautoir is transformable, since the clip is removable. The necklace is combined with a pair of earrings and a ring, always with coral, pearls and sapphires. Among the jewels of this collection stands out the bracelet Carrousel des demoiselles, with an emerald of 10.41 carats (from Brazil), sapphires, diamonds: alludes to the circle of frogs of the fairy tale, but the wearer immediately turns into a princess.




Anello Serapi. Rubini, zaffiri rosa e blu, corallo, diamanti
Anello Serapi. Rubini, zaffiri rosa e blu, corallo, diamanti
Orecchini Serapi. Rubini, zaffiri rosa e blu, perle di coltura bianche, corallo, diamanti
Orecchini Serapi. Rubini, zaffiri rosa e blu, perle di coltura bianche, corallo, diamanti
Sautoir Serapi. Zaffiro blu taglio cuscino di 13,01 carati (Sri Lanka), zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino di 3,08 carati (Birmania), rubino, zaffiri rosa e blu, perle di coltura bianche, corallo, diamanti. Sautoir trasformabile con clip amovibile
Sautoir Serapi. Zaffiro blu taglio cuscino di 13,01 carati (Sri Lanka), zaffiro rosa taglio cuscino di 3,08 carati (Birmania), rubino, zaffiri rosa e blu, perle di coltura bianche, corallo, diamanti. Sautoir trasformabile con clip amovibile
Clip Trio précieux. Diamante giallo Fancy Vivid Yellow taglio cuscino di 2,51 carati, diamanti
Clip Trio précieux. Diamante giallo Fancy Vivid Yellow taglio cuscino di 2,51 carati, diamanti
Bracciale Carrousel des demoiselles. Al centro, lo smeraldo del Brasile di 10,41 carati
Bracciale Carrousel des demoiselles. Al centro, lo smeraldo del Brasile di 10,41 carati
Bracciale Carrousel des demoiselles. Smeraldo taglio smeraldo di 10,41 carati (Brasile), zaffiri, diamanti
Bracciale Carrousel des demoiselles. Smeraldo taglio smeraldo di 10,41 carati (Brasile), zaffiri, diamanti







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