Vicenzaoro Archives | gioiellis.com

The ancient and modern art of engraving lives with Cameo Italiano

Published on March 23, 2023

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A life with a chisel in hand. And the result is exceptional: it is called Cameo Italiano. The company, which is now based in the Goldsmith Center of Marcianise (Caserta), is the result of the work of the Di Luca family. The story began in 1957, with Michele Di Luca. Having learned the art of carving, the master goldsmith decided to continue the tradition that made Torre del Greco, Naples and its surroundings the world capital of Cameo.

Orecchini della collezione Raffaello in argenta e conchiglia sardonica intagliata

An art that was immediately appreciated also abroad, so much so that the jeweler received a gold medal for having contributed to the economic development of the region. The cameo tradition was continued by the sons Gino, Anna, Pina and Marinella, who in 1980 transformed the company with a profound organizational renewal, but without affecting the craftsmanship of the workmanship, which is still done by hand. Gino also deserves credit for launching the brand recognized worldwide in 2012, Cameo Italiano. A goldsmith’s excellence that has renewed the tradition without erasing its peculiarity, as evidenced by the jewels presented at VicenzaOro January and the appreciation of an actress like Cate Blanchett.

Pendente della collezione Raffaello in argento e conchiglia sardonica intagliata

Orologio Partenope con cameo putto inciso a mano su conchiglia sardonica. Cassa e cinturino in acciaio

Orecchini Fleur in conchiglia intagliata e argento

Anello della collezione Raffaello in argento e con cameo putto da conchiglia sardonia intagliata

Cate Blanchett con un orecchino di Cameo Italiano

Vicenzaoro January hit the mark

Published on January 24, 2023

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The Vicenzaoro January outcome reflect the numbers relating to the jewelery business: they are gold. The organizing company of the event, Italian Exhibition Group, defines it as the edition of records. In fact, Vicenzaoro and the jewelery sector have put the crisis caused by the covid behind them. Also from an aesthetic point of view: the fittings of the standard editions have reappeared, more spacious and welcoming. As for the reverberation of the war in Ukraine, perhaps it is too early to count its weight. Vicenzaoro will be back at the end of the summer (8-12 September) among other things, in an exhibition environment renewed by a restructuring that has just begun.

But let’s get to the official numbers: 1,300 exhibiting brands and 400 foreign buyers. Compared to a year ago, foreign buyers doubled (+105%). More generally, the turnout was record (+11.5%) compared to January 2020. And this, Ieg points out, despite the duration of Vicenzaoro 2023 being one day shorter. Visitors from abroad are 60% of the total and have arrived from 136 countries around the world. In particular, from Europe (54.5%) the Middle East (9.5%), Asia (9%), Turkey (9%), North America (7.2%), Africa (5.4%) and Latin America (4.7%). Among the most represented countries are the United States, Turkey, Greece, Germany, Spain, the UK, France, the United Arab Emirates, Israel, Saudi Arabia, India, Japan and Thailand. However, the absence of Russia from China should be noted, at least from the official balance sheet.

Among the novelties of Vicenzaoro, moreover, there is certainly the substantial entry of the world of contemporary watchmaking and its supply chain with the Time platform, alongside the public entry of Vo Vintage, for open vintage watches and jewellery.

Lo spazio di U-Boat nell'area Time — Lo spazio di U-Boat nell’area Time

3D printed gold jewelry, the Progold and Chaumet contest

Published on January 23, 2023

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Anello di Naomi Cappabianca, dello IED Istituto Europeo di Design di Torino

The Italian goldsmith and jewelry industry are already projected towards the future. Alongside the traditional craftsmanship, new ways of producing are advancing, which use the most advanced technologies, as evidenced by the history of Progold. The company from Trissino (Vicenza) is able to create 3D jewels in 18-karat gold, titanium and platinum. The jewels are designed with software programs and Progold takes care of printing the jewel. Simple, as long as the designer has the necessary skills. To encourage the dissemination of this knowledge, the company has been organizing a design contest for years. The 2023 edition (the award ceremony is scheduled for Vicenzaoro on Sunday 22 January) also sees the collaboration with Chaumet and Platinum Guild International.

Anello di Erardo Ruy Heerera Garcìa, della Escuela Joyerìa de Córdoba

The goal of the new competition is to reinterpret an icon of the Chaumet brand through the use of 3D printing. Competing were the students of IED, Escuela Joyerìa de Còrdoba, Escuela Técnica de Joyerìa del Atlantico, Centro de Estudios Joyeros de Madrid (Spain), GIC – Gemmological Institute China University of Geosciences (China). The winners were respectively Naomi Cappabianca of the IED – Istituto Europeo di Design of Turin (technical jury) and Erardo Ruy Herrera García of the Escuela Joyerìa de Córdoba (public jury).

La vincitrice Naomi Cappabianca insieme a Pauline Martin, Product Manager Chaumet

Vicenzaoro January starts and is sold out

Published on January 20, 2023

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Vicenzaoro is back, the largest fair dedicated to Italian and European jewels. After the depression of the covid period, the gold sector is back perky. Witness the pavilions and spaces all occupied, with over 1,300 brands, exhibitors arriving from 36 countries. In short, an announced success for the organizers of Italian Exhibition Group? The sums are drawn in the end, but the premises, despite the leaden cloud that hangs over Ukraine and Russia, seem to exist.

Vicenzaoro lasts five days, until Tuesday 24 January, flanked by T.Gold, an international event dedicated to jewelery technologies and, from 20 to 23 January, by the fourth edition of Vo Vintage, open to the public and dedicated to vintage watches and jewellery. Not only that: the pavilions host a dense series of events, which we have listed here.

Uffici di Ieg a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Other numbers on Vicenzaoro: 40% come from 36 foreign countries, while 400 buyers are hosted, coming from over 60 countries, thanks to the support of the network of ICE (government body for export) offices around the world. In fact, Italy exports a lot of jewels and semi-finished products, even if the statistics signal a slowdown in the third quarter of 2022. The cumulative value of the gold sector for the first nine months of 2022 records a growth in value of 27.2% on January – September 2021, at just over 7 billion euros. This is an increase of +41.4% compared to the 5.07 billion euros exported in the first nine months of 2019. But, perhaps as a sign of the impending recession, growth in the third quarter of 2022 slowed down: after the increases over 30 % in value of the first and second quarters, from July to September exports recorded +14.6% according to the estimates of the Centro Studi di Confindustria Moda on Istat data for Federorafi).

Business a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Business a Vicenzaoro, marzo 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Maxilogo all’ingresso di Vicenzaoro

Golden year for the goldsmith sector

Published on January 20, 2023

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What is the state of health of the gold sector in Italy? For three years the Club degli Orafi, an association that brings together some of the large companies in the sector, has been asking the main Italian bank, Intesa San Paolo, for it. The result is a Conjunctural Survey which by now seems to be a necessary appointment for those who work in the world of jewellery.
The new edition of the research, presented during Vicenzaoro January, indicates widespread optimism among operators. The balance sheet for 2022 in each size class of companies records an increase in turnover for around 70% of those who responded to the survey. Although the final data for 2022 are still provisional, Banca Intesa’s research confirms the change in the Istat index (the Italian public statistical body), which stands at +25% in the January-October period, better than the sectors of fashion and manufacturing chain.

Settore orafo, commercio con l'estero — Settore orafo, commercio con l’estero

Optimism confirmed by the industrial production of the gold sector, with a growth trend in the January-November period both compared to 2021 (+15%) and in comparison. with 2019 it becomes +28%. After the two difficult years of covid, in short, and in spite of the geopolitical crisis involving Ukraine and Russia, exports have not stopped: in the first nine months of last year there was growth both in value (+30%), both in quantity (+11%), with a full overcoming of the pre-pandemic crisis values (+40%).

Italy ranks as the sixth exporting country of jewelery and semi-finished products, with a growing market share, especially in the United States, where it has managed to consolidate its positioning (12.5% market share in November 2022) .
What about 2023? The survey indicates generalized expectations of a slowdown and greater prudence: for larger companies, however, the sentiment remains positive both for the domestic market (56% of respondents) and for the foreign market (61%). Obviously everyone hopes that the Russian invasion will end and with it the war.

Quotazione dell'oro — Quotazione dell’oro

The analysis of the data relating to 2022 shows how the positive trend recorded in recent months was not temporary and in response to the decline in 2020, but rather a sign of extraordinary structural growth in the Italian gold sector. The companies have managed to directly address most of the critical issues that aroused the greatest concern in recent months, such as the geopolitical situation, increases in energy costs and difficulties associated with raw materials. The end of travel restrictions with the consequent recovery of trade fairs and tourism have given further impetus both in terms of further strengthening of exports and as regards the recovery of retail. The by now undeferrable issue of finding human resources remains, becoming stronger, which has become a priority for almost all companies, especially large ones.
Giorgio Villa, President of the Club degli Orafi Italia

Giorgio Villa, presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia e Stefania Trenti, Responsabile Industry Research, Direzione Studi e Ricerche Intesa Sanpaolo sul palco di Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

But for Italian companies, the game is played above all in comparison with other national or European operators, while the greatest difficulties are represented by the finding of manpower, indicated by one respondent out of two (rising to 87% of cases for production) and which, due to a progressive downsizing of the problems related to the management of raw materials and supplies, is in first place.

Lavorazione di gioielli nel laboratorio di Pedemonte Group

Also in 2022, the Italian gold sector confirmed its high level of competitiveness, especially in international markets, with export growth of 30% in value and 11% in quantity, fully exceeding the pre-crisis values. The contribution of the US market stands out in particular, also supported by the favorable exchange rate, returning to first place among the destinations of Italian jewelery which has progressively strengthened its positioning so as to represent 12.5% of total American imports in November 2022. Overall, the sector has shown great resilience and competitiveness over the last two years, the result of a long process of selection and requalification of the offer that has led Italy to become the main production hub for high-end jewelery . It will be essential, also given the more uncertain context that lies ahead, to continue along the path of strengthening the offer thanks to investments aimed at making production processes more efficient and supporting the know-how necessary for the development of the sector.
Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research, Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department

Una fase di lavorazione dei gioielli Crieri

Vo Vintage program

Published on January 12, 2023

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The stopwatch has already started to count down. And timepieces are the protagonists of Vo Vintage, the appointment introduced three years ago by Ieg as an experiment and which has proved to be a valid contribution to Vicenzaoro. So from 20 to 23 January Vo Vintage will be staged for the fourth edition, one day more than the previous ones. The event is always scheduled in the foyer on the first floor of the fair and is aimed at watch enthusiasts, collectors and traders. Unlike Vicenzaoro, in fact, in this case the entrance is open to the public and not only to operators.

35 brands and dealers will be present at Vo Vintage, including Vintage Watches by Stefano Mazzariol, Tempus by Elvio Piva, Goldfingers by Roberto Verde and Vintage Watches and Cars by Andrea Foffi, who returns to Vicenza also as a collector with the second part of the Magister Speedmaster Exhibition (the first at Vicenzaoro September 2022) dedicated to the most famous Omega watch models from his private collection. Representing vintage jewelery are also Art Deco’ Bijoux, Montegrandi Gioielli, Micol, Gioielleria Faelutti and I Santi Medici. Also present with a selection of ten exhibitors is the Watch Passion association, which brings together and promotes the best watch dealers.

Vo Vintage gennaio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Saturday 21 January
The event dedicated to watches (but also to vintage jewellery), has a series of meetings on its agenda. Saturday 21 January Jacopo Spangaro, organizer of The One auction-event and owner of the Spangaro watch shop in Udine, Antonio Follari and Giancarlo Befera, collectors and members of the L’Orologio Club, moderated by Dody Giussani, will talk about What characteristics a collector. The latest trends on the high-end international market will be addressed by Stefano Mazzariol, founder and CEO of Vintage Watches, Elvio Piva, founder and CEO of Tempus Padova, and Roberto Verde, president of the Watch Passion association, in a meeting moderated by Michele Mengoli and Jacopo Giudici , respectively director and founder and publisher of Watch Insanity. Also on Saturday 21 January, the talk is scheduled with speeches by Franco Armentano, founder of DHM, Fabio Bertini, manager of F.lli Pisa in Milan and Michele Corvo, owner of Corvo & C and GMT Italia.

Vo Vintage, laboratorio. Copyright: gioiellis.com

On Saturday 21 January, in the Collecting out of the box talk curated by Andrea Casalegno, watch lover, consultant and signature of IamCasa on Instagram, he will discuss with three young influencers how the way of collecting has changed and the growing role of social networks: Alessandro Fanciulli, collector and hunter of valuable pieces, Joël Laplace, collector and assistant manager at the Zenith Heritage Department, and Lorenzo Maillard, collector and content specialist at Watches and Culture, the cultural hub of FHH.

Visitatori a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Sunday 22 January
Bruno Bergamaschi (aka Giorgione), one of the most recognized watchmaking experts in Italy, founder of Watchouse and ambassador of Vicenzaoro for the passion and culture of watchmaking, will instead be among the protagonists of the meeting on Sunday 22 January on the theme Defending passion for counterfeiting and theft, together with Mario Peserico, president of Assorologi, and Lorenzo Lucchinelli, founder of Ipsum – Identity for luxury goods.
With Italian Watch Spotter, space is given to collections from the 1990s and 2000s and to contemporary designs that evoke vintage. For technical training, the appreciated course held by Professor Ugo Pancani, of the Genevan FHH – Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and member of the GPHG Academy, returns on Sunday 22 January. Sunday 22 January will be the turn of Vintage Game Changers, with another key voice that has changed the rules of the game in the field of collecting: Jasper Lijfering, owner and CEO of Amsterdam Vintage Watches, one of the most prestigious vintage watch boutiques luxury, with an online offer of high-end pieces for collectors from all over the world.

Al piano superiore Vo Vintage, sotto VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

At Vo Vintage also Maurice Lacroix

Published on January 10, 2023

Orologi

Vo Vintage, a parallel appointment to Vicenzaoro dedicated to watchmaking (January 20-23), also brings Maurice Lacroix to the fair. The Swiss company based in Saignelégier, in the Canton of Jura, is making its debut with some new products: from models in the Aikon collection in increasingly smaller sizes, such as the Venturer 38mm and Skeleton 39mm, suitable for both men and women, up to new Pontos S Chronograph and Pontos Day Date Limited Edition, for the first time equipped with an easily interchangeable strap.

Aikon Master Grand Date Black della Maison svizzera Maurice Lacroix

Also on display is the latest addition to the Maurice Lacroix house: the Aikon Master Grand Date Black, a watch that combines the precision of the mechanics of the Masterpiece collection with urban design.

Il modello è dotato di un nuovo tipo di cinturino in caucciù, con il nome del brand in rilievo

The Vicenzaoro’s program

Published on December 23, 2022

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Gioielli di Roberto Coin a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As always, the appointment with Vicenzaoro is also an opportunity for training, information and ideas, thanks to the many side events to the business. Also for Vicenzaoro January (January 20-23) the organizer of the fair, Italian Exhibition Group, has prepared a series of talks that may be useful to those who will participate. Below, the program planned for the four days of the event dedicated to jewellery.

Il Talk sui diamanti sintetici a Vicenzaoro — Talk sui diamanti a Vicenzaoro

Friday 20 January
Opening Ceremony 11.30 – 12.30 | Teatro PalladioThe Italian goldsmith sector: update and presentation of the economic situationTalk
edited by Club degli Orafi Italia
2.30pm – 3.30pm | Titian room B
Piazza Italia: toward a more sustainable internationalization with our B2B digital integrationEvent
by Piazza Italia
5.30pm – 7pm | Buyers Lounge

Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Saturday 21 January

W&J Initiative Summit Event
by CIBJO
10am – 12pm | Titian room B
Dreamscapes Between Reality and Fiction pushing the boundaries of the Jewelery Sector
Event curated by Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting
11:00 – 12:30 | Palladio Theater
Women driving sustainability in miningTalk
edited by Italpreziosi S.p.A.
12.30pm – 1.30pm | Titian room B
Women & business in jewelery (gems, stones, mines)
Talk by Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A. in partnership with BPW International and the Africa Business Council
2pm – 6pm | Titian Room A
Dior JewelleryInterview with Dominique Dufermont, Responsible Service Pierres Maison Dior
Event organized by Assogemme
3pm – 4pm | Titian room B
Katerina Perez: turning passion into a profession
Event curated by Katerina Perez
4.30pm – 5.30pm | Palladio Theater

Sunday 22 January

Jewelery Technology Forum
Event organized by Legor Group S.p.A.
09:45 – 17:30 | Titian Room
Chinese new year celebration
Event organized by Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A
10am – 11am | Hall 7 – Welcome Lounge
The branding of the jewelery market
Seminar organized by CIBJO
10am – 11am | Palladio Theater
Open day: orientation for schools at Vicenzaoro January 2023
Event organized by Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A. in collaboration with Confindustria Federorafi and the Province of Vicenza
10am – 1pm | VIP room
LoungeSustainability through successful succession
Seminar organized by CIBJO
11:15am – 12:15pm | Palladio Theater
PROGOLD 3D Design Contest Award Ceremony Reinterpreting an iconic aesthetic through the use of new technologies in a sustainable wayEvent
edited by Progold S.p.A.
2pm – 3pm | Palladio Theater
HRD Design Awards XVIII editionEvent
curated by HRD Antwerp and Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A. under the high patronage of CIBJO
4.30pm – 7pm | Palladio Theater

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Monday 23 January

The surprising characteristics of some gems: the chameleon gems and the phenomenal gems
Gem talk by I.G.I. (Italian Gemological Institute)
10am – 11am | Titian room B

Goodbye old dogmas, welcome new paradigms. Living and not surviving in change
Retail talk by Federpreziosi Confcommercio
11:30 – 12:15 | Titian room B

Selling on Amazon: is the game worth the candle?
Retail talk by the Group of Young Entrepreneurs Federpreziosi Confcommercio
12:30 – 1:15 pm | Titian room B

Presentation of the Jewelery Design competition: the jewel of the pharaoh
Event organized by LabiGem – Italian Gemological Laboratory
3pm – 4pm | Titian room B

Luxury and jewelery market: analysis of key variables for competitive positioning. The experience of Confartigianato Imprese Vicenza
Talk by Confartigianato Imprese Vicenza
4.30pm – 5.30pm | Titian room B

The nature of Cédille Paris

Published on December 20, 2022

vetrina

Nature at the center of Cédille Paris collections, the Maison founded by Carmen Aoun ♦ ︎

Carmen Aoun, of Lebanese origin, moved to Paris. Since she was a child, she says she grew up with a love for precious stones and jewelry. Two aspects that she studied until he created his jewelry house, called Cédille Paris. In 2019 she participated for the second time in VicenzaOro, in the Design Room. For those unfamiliar with the French language, it is good to specify that cedille (cedilla) is the graphic sign that is sometimes added to the letter Ç and is pronounced like a soft letter S. And if you look closely at the cedilla it is like an accessory: it looks like a jewel, for example a pair of earrings.

Anello in oro rosa 18 carati con diamanti brown e tsavorite

Even the style of Cédille Paris is as fun as its name. But the inspiration has nothing to do with the alphabet. In fact, jewels have almost exclusively a natural subject, sometimes with a bit of humor. As in the case of jewels that represent a fish bone, with gold and fancy diamonds. There is, however, also a more committed line, which recalls the environment at risk for elephants. The Cédille collections are made with diamonds, precious stones and 18-carat gold in white, yellow and pink, as well as some semi-precious stones such as malachite.

Collana in oro, turchese, madreperla e lapislazzuli

Collezione Ç Moi, anello in oro, diamanti, smalto

Collezione Ç Moi, bracciale in oro, diamanti, smalto

Collezione Ç Moi, orecchino in oro, diamanti, smalto

Anello in oro e diamante — Anello in oro e diamanti

1200 brands and some debuts are expected at Vicenzaoro

Published on December 13, 2022

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Preview of Vicenzaoro. Ieg, the company that organizes the appointment dedicated to jewelery (20-24 January 2023) anticipates some of the interesting points of the next event. Forecasts indicate the participation of over 1,200 exhibiting brands from 33 countries, with new presences such as Niessing, AWKN1 and Coeur de Lion, a German brand recently also distributed in Italy. The Design Room is also back, this time with the presence of brands such as Antonini, Salima Thakker, Morphée Joaillerie, Marina B and Victoria Yu, Alessio Boschi, Cédille Paris, José Maria Goñi, Mousson Atelier and Netali Nissim. As already announced, next to Vicenzaoro there will be the T.Gold international exhibition of technologies and machinery for the goldsmith, as well as a space open to the public dedicated to vintage watches and jewellery.

Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Among the most established brands in the Icon community there will always be Damiani, Roberto Coin, Crivelli, Fope, Leo Pizzo, Annamaria Cammilli, Crieri. New entries such as PdPaola and the French Aurélie Bidermann are expected in the Look area, together with the return of brands such as Amen, Brosway, Bronzallure, Unoaerre. For those planning to participate, the Vicenzaoro The Jewelery Golden Cloud app is already active, with useful information.

Il booth di Nanis a VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Giselle Effting. Copyright: gioiellis.com

More space for TGold

Published on November 18, 2022

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Together with Vicenzaoro, from 20 to 24 January 2023 TGold returns, an event dedicated to goldsmith production. The next edition, according to the organizers of Italian Exhibition Group, will be an edition enhanced by the larger exhibition area and with an even more complete offer, testifying to the strategic value of Made in Italy and international manufacturing. Particular attention will be paid to sustainable processes and innovative processes.

During the 5 days of the fair, in the completely dedicated Hall 9, the exhibitors will be organized into six macro-categories: casting, mechanical processing, prototyping and digital production, finishing, refining and recovery, tool-benches and materials. Among the major players in the segment, Italian companies stand out, in which the market recognizes the leadership on a technological know-how that has consolidated over time and has spread from the peninsula throughout the world. Legor Group, Sisma, Italimpianti, Btt Impianti of the Lem Industries Group, as well as companies international, especially from Germany.

Macchina per la lavorazione dell'oro — Macchina per la lavorazione dell’oro

In Vicenzaoro hands on the Time

Published on November 10, 2022

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To say that Vicenzaoro wants to transform itself into a new Baselworld would be wrong. But it is certain that the company organizing the most important jewelry event, Italian Exhibition Group, is thinking of expanding the business space. This is indicated by the decision to create a new area, called Time with not excessive originality, dedicated to watchmaking. To tell the truth, Vicenzaoro had already added a mezzanine to the space reserved for jewelry for a couple of years, where Vo Vintage was held, a space for watchmaking open to the public, with most of them a few vintage jewelry dealers.

After this taste, therefore, the new community dedicated to contemporary watchmaking and its supply chain is enriched, but in a B2B version. The debut is scheduled at the same time as Vicenzaoro, from 20 to 24 January 2023, again in the premises of Fiera Vicenza. The main buyers and operators of international and Italian distribution will be present, a selection of brands such as Edox, U-Boat, GaGà Milano, Locman, independent brands, a collective of Swiss brands curated by Swiss Creative Lab and a selection of Italian and micro-brands. high potential start-up by Watches of Italy. The Time space will also host after-sales components, accessories, tools and services companies, such as Oisa 1937 and Bergeon. VO Vintage, however, does not retire and is always open to the public.

In short, Ieg wants to create a high-level event dedicated to watchmaking. To convince operators, the company recalls that in the last edition of Vicenzaoro, in September, arrivals from abroad recorded an increase of 10% compared to 2019 and represent more than half of the total attendance (51%), with buyers from 124 countries.

Il logo di Vo Vintage

The new Vicenzaoro will have more time

Published on October 22, 2022

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Visitatori all'ingresso di Vicenzaoro marzo 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro returns to its usual place in the calendar and prepares for the next appointment (20-24 January 2023) with some news. This is the new Time community, dedicated to contemporary watchmaking with distribution, which integrates the merchandise offer of the event, which sees the confirmation of VO Vintage (January 20-23, one more day than past editions), an event that takes place in the adjacent spaces and is dedicated to vintage timepieces and jewelery, open to the public. But now Vo will be joined by a B2B area for contemporary watchmaking. Furthermore, as reported to gioiellis.com, the new edition of Vicenzaoro should re-propose the original formula, with personalized booth set-ups for each exhibitor.

Un'immagine di Vo Vintage 2021 — Un’immagine di Vo Vintage 2021

Vicenzaoro thus returns to be the forerunner of events dedicated to jewelry. For the occasion, Ieg, the company that organizes the fair, proposes the format The Jewelery Boutique Show. In short, after the long interlude conditioned by covid, the Italian jewelery fair is back to normal, including the program of talks and workshops with international experts and opinion leaders. And with Vicenzaoro will be back T. Gold, the international exhibition of technologies and machinery for goldsmithing, the main showcase of innovation for the sector.

Vetrine di Piovani a Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

VicenzaOro January, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris — VicenzaOro January 2019, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro wants to return to the ancient glories

Published on September 24, 2022

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Booth di Fope, VicenzaOro January 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro changes its skin. Or, more precisely, he promises to wear the gala dress, the one used for so many years. Until the pandemic. With the blocking or reduction of activities, Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes the largest Italian fair dedicated to jewelry, has decided to adopt a more sober and, above all, less expensive style for exhibitors. In fact, starting from September 2020, Vicenzaoro offered visitors and exhibiting companies an almost identical set-up for everyone, with the only difference in the sizes purchased. Exhibitors were able to add seats, desks, and of course jewelry display cases. But the various booths invariably all appeared in the same brick color.

A sinistra, l'allestimento di Roberto Coin del gennaio 2020, prima dello scoppio della pandemia. A destra, quello di settembre 2021 — A sinistra, l’allestimento di Roberto Coin a Vicenzaoro del gennaio 2020, prima dello scoppio della pandemia. A destra, quello di settembre 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com

With the end of the emergency period, and also considering that the jewelry has registered a small boom in recent months, Ieg, according to exhibitors present in September, has decided that from January Vicenzaoro will return to the old style, with different arrangements for each exhibitor . Everyone, as in the pre-covid years, will have to take charge of organizing their own space. A decision that should redevelop the aesthetics of Vicenzaoro but which, undoubtedly, involves some additional costs for the companies present. On the occasion of Vicenzaoro September, we therefore conducted an informal survey among some exhibitors (all Italian), under a rigorous request for anonymity, regarding this choice. The majority of the companies we spoke to (a dozen) expressed their opposition, due to the additional expense involved in a personalized booth. A minority is indifferent or mildly in favor.

L’attuale allestimento di Vicenzoro. Settembre 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For Ieg, at this point, a reflection could open up. The will of the exhibitors, as demonstrated by the Baselworld affair, sunk by excessive costs, could prevail or lead to greater caution, also because it is not certain that the golden times for jewelry are destined to continue. Of course, a mini survey cannot be enough to change the strategy of a company that specializes in trade fair management. But it might suggest opening a dialogue with your users, which would not be a waste of time.

L'allestimento di Fope, gennaio 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com — L’allestimento di Fope, gennaio 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro closes at + 10%

Published on September 13, 2022

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Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Everyone happily ever after in Vicenzaoro. Certainly the organizers, that is Italian Exhibition Group, are. And, probably, many exhibitors too, if you consider the numbers. The September edition of the jewelery fair surpassed the pre-covid results: visitors were 10% more than in 2019, with an increase in arrivals from abroad of 20%. Business is likely to have risen as a result. In the final press release at the end of the fair, Ieg released figures that, perhaps, may regret the companies that have decided not to participate. Here are the data, rather comforting for the sector, given that Vicenzaoro is a B2B event, that is, accessible only to operators (and journalists), and the positive comments of the representatives of some of the brands present.

The foreign presence has been excellent for us, both from overseas and from Europe, for potential and new dealers, with quality visits in line with our positioning and with what we are looking for. We also found interest and propensity for the future, all positive notes.

Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Over half of the total presences (51%) came from across borders, from 124 different countries. Total media contacts, including those of gioiellis.com, reached 92 million gross, of which 29 million from the foreign press. The views by professional operators of exhibitor profiles on The Jewelery Golden Cloud B2B platform exceeded 125,000. In detail, visitors and buyers came mainly from Spain (7.3%), France (5.5%) and Germany (5.1%). Among non-European countries, the United States (5.7%, Turkey (3.3%), Israel (2.5%) and UAE (2.3%) are in first place. But there was no lack of contributions from India (1, 9%), Mexico, Colombia (both 1%) and Brazil (0.7%).

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For Fabergé Vicenzaoro, September 2022 was a very successful event in terms of commercial, visitor and press terms, despite a complicated period from a socio-economic and political point of view. We are extremely satisfied, because we have met many of our partners and developed new contacts and relationships from all over the world, in an edition that was the stage for us to exhibit our object d’art dedicated to Game of Thrones, a unique piece in the world presented at Vicenzaoro for the first time in Europe.
Nico Clary, head of wholesale at Fabergé

Nico Clary, head of wholesale Fabergé. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jewelery becomes gender fluid

Published on September 12, 2022

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Boucheron, orecchino freccia in oro bianco e diamanti

If Mikimoto launched the pearl necklace for men two years ago, if Tiffany never misses an opportunity to emphasize the wearability of her jewels for male representatives, if Fope has also extended her elastic gold shirt to the misters of the planet (l ‘list can go on and on), does it mean that men’s jewelry is the current trend? Not really. In Vicenzaoro, the usual appointment with Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, the independent observatory of Ieg (the company that organizes Vicenzaoro) on the world of jewelry, took note of a widespread trend among young people, gender fluidity. Of course, it can also be considered confusion, not everyone likes it. But it is undeniable that some of the new generations tend to blur their identity. Any judgment you can give to this gender smoothie is a godsend for jewelry companies. In short, it is a market that is expanding, in proportion to the blurred boundary between man and woman, at least for those who follow this trend.

But beware: we are not talking about traditional military-style bracelets or skull-shaped rings designed for the man who never has to ask. The concept of the trend is summarized by Lynn Yaeger, contributing editor of Vogue USA, that is a collaborator of the monthly: «Everyone can buy everything. Among young people we find a freedom and fluidity that once did not exist. Today, genres are also mixed in jewelry: silver with very precious stones, for example. That young people no longer define themselves in a gender has an impact on the jewelry industry: men also use women’s necklaces with diamonds and pendants “.

Erin e Nicole con la figlia Goldie, famiglia non tradizionale con gioielli Tiffany

In any case, there is not only gender fluidity, mostly represented by the tendency of men to use feminine accessories, rather than the other way around. The trends identified this year by the creative director and co-founder Paola De Luca take note of this identity babel. But there are also nano-ceramics and 3D, sustainable, circular and recycled materials, shapes inspired by the textures of nature and surfaces kept in their raw state, but also jewels that tell sentimental stories kept inside them. Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting was also an opportunity to talk about metaverse and jewelery. A topic to which we will dedicate an article in the coming days.

La presentazione di Trendvision Jewellery + Forecasting

The jewelry shines, with some shadows

Published on September 10, 2022

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La cerimonia inaugurale di Vicenzaoro, con Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente Italian Exhibition Group, Elena Bonetti, Ministro per le Pari opportunità e famiglia, Erika Stefani, Ministro per le disabilità, Francesco Rucco, sindaco di Vicenza, Roberto Luongo, Direttore Generale ICE Agenzia, Maria Cristina Franco, vicepresidente della Provincia di Vicenza, Claudia Piaserico, presidente Federorafi, Roberto Marcato, Assessore allo Sviluppo Economico ed Energia Regione Veneto

How is the jewelry market in Italy going? This question is answered by the second edition of the economic survey organized by the Goldsmiths Club and Banca Intesa Sanpaolo. The results were defined with a survey among the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The survey was presented in a talk during the first day of Vicenzaoro. Result: everything is fine for now. More than half of the operators hypothesize a growth in turnover, also confirmed by the change in the Istat index, which stood at + 32% in the first half of 2022, better than the sectors of the fashion sector and the average of Italian manufacturing.

Still according to the survey, in terms of industrial production, jewelery and costume jewelery ranks among the best performers of the Italian industry, both in comparison with the first half of 2021 (+ 23%, in fourth position among the manufacturing sectors) and with respect to first six months of 2019 (+ 30%, which earned it third place in the ranking).

However, some shadows loom. One is brought about by Russia’s war in Ukraine. The second, on the other hand, concerns the increase in interest rates. Furthermore, the inflationary phenomenon is historically accompanied by the increase in the price of gold. At the beginning of September, the survey confirms, compared to previous editions, a downward revision of expectations was recorded which, however, seems to involve only smaller operators. The larger companies, on the other hand, confirm their stability for the current year with 70% of participants declaring a growth in turnover. It should be added, however, that the quantity of what is sold does not always correspond to the profits written in the financial statements.

In any case, in the first five months of 2022 there was a growth of 41% in value and 15% in quantity of exports. The Made in Italy jewel has managed to consolidate its positioning towards the main commercial competitors. In particular, it gained positions in the United States where it represents the second partner with a share of 12.7% in the first part of 2022.

However, it is surprising that, faced with this uncertain picture, companies complain in particular of the difficulty in finding labor, a problem indicated by 80% of the largest companies, while among smaller companies the attention to transport costs is growing.

Vicenzaoro kicks off with the trend wind

Published on September 9, 2022

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Five days dedicated to jewelry. Vicenzaoro September is the most important event of the year in Italy, and beyond, because it is a prelude to the hottest season (at least from a shopping point of view). The Vicenza fair organized by Ieg is scheduled from 9 September (Friday) to 13 September (Tuesday). And, even if the post-pandemic period just ended for the sector’s business has been satisfactory, the impact that the war in Ukraine will have and the consequent increase in energy costs on the jewelry industry has to be verified. Moreover, a large part has given up on the problematic Russian market.

VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As an encouragement, Italian Exhibition Group recalls the sector data relating to Italy: in the first five months of 2022, manufacturers of finished jewelery or components recorded an export growth in value of 36.5%, just under 4 billion euros. euro, about 1 billion more than in the same period last year (the estimate is from the Confindustria Moda Study Center based on Istat data for Federorafi).

At Vicenzaoro September the thousand exhibiting brands hope that the positive wind will continue to blow in the sails of sales, because the companies are close to the levels of 2019, but have not yet reached them. In any case, 35% of buyers from 28 foreign countries, Turkey, Germany, Spain the most represented, are present at the fair. And, other good news, China and Hong Kong, India and Thailand, for Asia are also returning to Vicenza. In all, 400 buyers were hosted, from over 70 countries, thanks to the support of about forty Ice offices around the world. Also present are all the acronyms of the various associations, which also organize a series of meetings of which we have already written in the article on the program, which you can find here.

Vetrina a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gioielli a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

With the start-ups the technology is in Vicenzaoro

Published on September 7, 2022

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Not just new collections, unique pieces and gems. Vicenzaoro (9-11 September) is much more. For example, it is also technology with the fourth edition of Startup & Carats. This is the project organized by Agenzia Ice (government body for exports) together with Italian Exhibition Group (company that organizes Vicenzaoro). The idea is to find start-ups with original solutions for the jewelry sector. Startup & Carats takes place in parallel with Vicenzaoro September and presents in pavilion 6 companies active in the prototyping and production of jewelery, diagnostics of precious stones, analysis of the visit data at the exhibition stand, management of the point of sale in the web environment, market entry, fund raising.

In all, there are eight young companies, selected as part of the project to support the development of the goldsmith industry. For example, Rem Jewel deals with digital images, while Diatech Pro offers a diamond scanner that distinguishes between natural, fake and lab grown thanks to artificial intelligence. G-move, on the other hand, is a company active in business intelligence, which analyzes the flow of visitors to an exhibition stand (but safeguarding privacy). Gioielleria Italiana, Officina Orafa have at the center the tools necessary for the jeweler to create a line under their own brand, while Retail Hub proposes itself as an aggregator and accelerator for start-ups with business advisor paths. Services dedicated to the gold and jewelery sector to obtain public grants is the goal of Fortitudo Diamonds. Finally, Art & Soft aims to implement tailored sales and the shopping experience.

VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro arrives with many appointments

Published on August 26, 2022

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There are just a few days left for the opening of the new edition of Vicenzaoro September (9-13 September), a strategic appointment for jewelry brands, which are preparing for the hottest season of sales. Vicenzaoro September, according to the organizing company IEG, seems to have the conditions to hit the target. The brands represented by the companies present at the fair are over a thousand, including those of the parallel VO Vintage (9-11 September, dedicated to vintage jewelry and watches). Alongside the brands and their collections, the presence of leading exponents of the jewelry world is also expected, such as Guido Grassi Damiani, president of the homonymous Group and of the Ethics Committee of Assogemme, Julien Stervinou, Head of Sustainable Innovation Lab for Watches & Jewelry by Kering, Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the Watch & Jewelery Initiative, Lynn Yeager, signature of Vogue USA and the New York Times, up to Marianne Fisher and Ida Faerber, who represent the fourth generation of two global brands of the antique and vintage jewelry. Which, by the way, are the ones who organize GemGèneve.

On the afternoon of Friday 9 September, Jerome Favier, CEO of the Damiani Group, will offer an overview of the challenges of the market and the strategic choices that will mark the future development of the maison. And the day after Guido Grassi Damiani, on the Vicenzaoro agenda, will participate in the Assogemme talk entitled Vero è bello. The importance and value of natural diamonds for Italian jewelry, with the introduction of the president of the Paolo Cesari Association and the president of Federorafi Claudia Piaserico.

Guido Damiani, presidente del gruppo di Valenza

The cultural enrichment program organized by Ieg also includes the interventions of Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research of the Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department, and Augusto Ungarelli, president of Vendorafa Lombardi and past president of the Club degli Orafi Italia on the state of the art of the goldsmith sector. -Italian jeweler. In the talk of the inaugural day, Friday 9 September, the Italian goldsmith sector, a complex and uncertain scenario organized in collaboration with the Club degli Orafi Italia, will be the results of the sector research carried out by the Intesa Sanpaolo Study Center.
The gold and jewelery industry is also at the center of Chromaverse on Saturday 10 September. How the Metaverse and NFTs are effecting Consumers and the Jewelery sector, Trendvison Jewelery + Forecasting event conducted by Paola De Luca, creative director and co-founder with Ieg, on the occasion of the preview presentation of the new Trendbook 2024+. Among the guests Rebecca Forster, president of Hearts on Fire, Angie Marei, founder & fine jewelry designer of Marei New York, Anna Adriani, marketing director of Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS in Venice, Naman Sidharth, co-founder of NFJ Labs, and the return to Vicenzaoro of Lynn Yeager, contributor to Vogue USA and the New York Times.

Other workshops
A new paradigm for marketing diamond jewelery: shifting the focus from men to women is scheduled for Sunday 11 September, the first of the two seminars held by Cibjo, the World Jewelery Confederation. It will focus on the new social roles that women also claim in the purchase of jewels and precious, with the introduction of the president Gaetano Cavalieri and the interventions of Julien Stervinou, Head of Sustainable Innovation Lab for Watches & Jewelry of Kering, Mina El Hadraoui, director of Natural Diamond Council France, journalist Bérengère Treussard of Like AB, and moderators Edward Johnson (Edward Johnson Consulting) and Elle Hill (Hill & Co). The second event, also on Sunday, is Developing a global approach to jewelery supply chain regulation, on the opportunities for regulating the goldsmith-jewelery supply chain on a global scale. Speakers include Iris Van der Veken, executive director of the Watch & Jewelery Initiative, Tiffany Steven, president and CEO of Jewelers’ Vigilance Committee USA, Sara Yood, Deputy General Counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee USA and John Mulligan, Market Relations & Climate Change Lead by World Gold Council.

On Sunday 11 September Ellen Joncheere, CEO of HRD Antwerp, and Gaetano Cavalieri, president of Cibjo who sponsors the initiative together with the Italian Exhibition Group, will present the new edition of the HRD Design Awards, whose award ceremony will be hosted in Vicenzaoro January 2023, through ideas creative to improve the sector developed by three young talents, finalists of past editions of the competition.

The iconic value of precious items told by those who have three generations of research and trade of unique pieces behind them, which are the very history of the jewel. Saturday 10 September, Marianne Fisher at the helm of the Geneva-based Paul Fisher, and Ida Faerber of Faerber Collection, who will talk with Amanda Triossi, jewelery historian, author and curator, and Marie-Cécile Cisamolo, Director Jewelry Specialist at Sotheby’s, in the talk Vintage and antique jewelry: among past and modernity, edited and moderated by Donatella Zappieri, jewelry business consultant.

Italian Exhibition Group. Copyright: gioiellis.com