Gold without brakes, but the buyer is anonymous

Anyone who wants to buy a gold jewel, or sell it, be careful: the price of the yellow metal has broken all records and who knows how much longer it will continue to rise. But why has the price of gold exceeded 2,400 dollars per ounce, a measurement which is equivalent to 31.1 grams? The reasons are different. The one considered main by market operators concerns the geopolitical situation, between the invasion of Ukraine and Gaza, without forgetting the Chinese pressure on Taiwan: gold is the safe haven par excellence, which is accumulated when the winds of war blow. But not only. The price of gold is also linked to other factors. To the demand for gold for jewelery (decreased by 2%), but also to its use as a raw material for industry (increased by 10%), for example for the world of electronics (computers and tablets can contain small metal components yellow).

Prezzo dell'oro a 10 anni
10 year gold price

Furthermore, purchasing by central banks has continued for some time, accumulating gold reserves because they fear difficult scenarios in the near future. However, according to some analysts, all this would not be enough to justify the surge in prices. There are also those who point the finger at mysterious, faceless buyers who are hoarding gold on the market. According to one analysis, purchases by anonymous buyers were the real drivers of the record. Indeed, without these secret purchases, the demand for gold for investment would have collapsed, causing a drop of 5%. These purchases are anonymous also because they do not pass through regulated markets. These are transactions technically defined as OTC, over the counter, between two private entities, which thus guarantee absolute anonymity.
Shopping in Cina
Jewelry Shopping in China

According to the World Gold Council, anonymous people bought 136 tons of gold in the first three months of 2024, about 11% of total demand. In particular, the purchases would have been concentrated on the Asian far market, i.e. China, but also Turkey and India.
Lingotti d'oro
Gold bars

Atelier Vm in bloom

Flowering constantly inspires the creativity of those who design jewelry. As in the case of the Bloom collection by the Milanese brand Atelier Vm. The collection is also the first proposed by the company that uses the special alloy called 3Kt, introduced on the occasion of the Maison’s 25th birthday. The alloy is composed of metals such as silver and copper, with the addition of gold (the name suggests to the extent of approximately 12%). Camellia, Lily, Bamboo and Jacaranda are the flowers from which the collection, made up of five earrings, drew inspiration.

Orecchini giglio misura piccola
Small size lily earrings

Flowers and leaves have been reassembled in a laser-cut metal plate to become large, bright and light earrings. The instructions accompanying the sale of the earrings are very useful: «Cleaning this jewel can be done with a specific cloth. It is highly recommended to preserve this jewel from contact with ammonia, perfumes, creams and chlorine.” The jewels are on sale with a price ranging from 115 to 295 euros.

Orecchino bamboo
Bamboo earring
Orecchini camelia
Camellia earrings
Orecchini giglio
Lily earrings

Gübelin’s transformable ring

Gübelin is a name that all jewelers know: its precious stone evaluation laboratory is among the most renowned in the world. But the Maison is also a jewelry store that creates high-end jewelry. Like this Burmese sapphire ring, Vibrant Wings. The jewel is inspired by the eternal motif of a butterfly. It is made of platinum and titanium and is set with brightly colored sapphires, diamonds and a ruby. The ruby has a very special meaning for the Gübelin house. It symbolizes the company’s Deeply Inspired philosophy. Each Gübelin jewel is therefore set with a ruby and embodies the Gübelin family’s passion for colored gemstones.

Gouache dell'anello
Vibrant Wings
Vibrant Wings ring gouache

Furthermore, the jewel can be worn as a cocktail ring or as a brooch. The sapphire in the center is 4.88 carats and comes from Burma (Myanmar), with a gemological structure defined as spectacular.

Il rubino simboleggia la filosofia Deeply Inspired di Gübelin
Il rubino simboleggia la filosofia Deeply Inspired di Gübelin

In Vibrant Wings we use titanium to convey both the beautiful colors and weightlessness of the butterflies in this jewel. This extraordinary jewel can be worn both as a cocktail ring and as a brooch. And even the different ways of wearing this haute joaillerie are a tribute to the metamorphosis of a butterfly. Colorful sapphires and diamonds in an exciting mix of cuts reflect the light and remind us of the shimmering wings of a butterfly as it floats past.
Raphael Gübelin, president of Maison Gübelin

Il rubino simboleggia la filosofia Deeply Inspired di Gübelin
Gübelin hand-picked 260 select gemstones totaling over 22 carats

The ring is also lightweight thanks to the use of titanium, a very demanding metal due to its hardness, which requires specialized tools and extensive knowledge. More than 500 hours of work were needed to create the sculptural jewel. Precious stones in a sophisticated mix of cuts and colors, which give life to lively refractions of light. Leveraging its gemological expertise and experience in the processing of colored stones, Gübelin has hand-selected 260 selected gemstones totaling over 22 carats, arranged with a refined aesthetic sense and artisanal sensitivity to give rise to spectacular gradations of color.
Zaffiri colorati e diamanti ricordano le ali scintillanti di una farfalla
Colorful sapphires and diamonds resemble the sparkling wings of a butterfly

Jewellery and watches with Faraone Auction House

Spring jewels in the auction sale on May 28th by Faraone Casa d’Aste. The Milanese company offers 258 lots, which will be contested at the headquarters in via Monte Napoleone 9, in three rounds of jewellery, watches in the afternoon and luxury goods (such as Chanel bags) in the morning. The first of the two Faraone Casa d’Aste events (the other will be close to Christmas) will also be live streaming on the MyFaraone app. The session dedicated to jewels includes a rare choker signed Bulgari Monete collection, 1980s with three rows of tubigas, in two-tone gold with an imperial Roman coin in bronze set in the central part. Another important piece is a no-heat octagonal cut Burma sapphire weighing approximately 16.50 carats mounted on a platinum ring and another oval Ceylon sapphire weighing approximately 14 carats, also no-heat, mounted on a gold brooch yellow.

Anello con zaffiro taglio ottagonale
Ring with octagonal cut sapphire

Still in the field of colored gems, mounted on a ring are two oval Colombian emeralds of approximately 4.90 carats in total, a Pederzani ring in yellow gold with an oval cabochon sapphire of 22.73 carats, with sapphires and caliber diamonds, and a platinum ring with natural white saltwater pearl with gray shade of approximately 17 millimeters. For diamonds, two platinum solitaires are highlighted, one with a 6.03-carat diamond and the other with a 6.86-carat diamond, both brilliant cut. Also on sale is a Bulgari Serpenti Viper full diamond bracelet and ring in white gold, a Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra necklace characterized by ten motifs in yellow gold with malachite and diamonds, a Sabbadini snake bracelet in ebony and diamonds, an Illario snake ring in yellow gold, enamel and diamonds, a Ravasco brooch in platinum and diamonds and a Minaudière Illario for Ventrella in yellow and white gold finished with round diamonds and caliber rubies, complete with original case.

anello Pederzani in oro giallo con zaffiro ovale cabochon di 22,73 carati
Pederzani ring in yellow gold with a 22.73 carat oval cabochon sapphire

Among the watches, a rare Patek Philippe 3770/001 in yellow gold stands out, an ultra-refined model although with a quartz movement, born from the fusion of the elegant and refined Ellipse in the 1980s, and the Nautilus, a watch symbolizing young sportiness. A hybrid of the two watches, the Nautellipse, sold in this rare version: it is only the fourth to appear on the international auction market. Also up for auction are two Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models, with self-winding mechanical movements, in yellow gold and steel respectively, both complete with box and guarantee. There is no shortage of Rolex watches: an Ovetto and an Ovettone both from the 1950s.

Anello in platino con perla naturale d'acqua salata bianca con sfumatura grigia di circa 17 millimetri
Platinum ring with natural white saltwater pearl with gray nuance of approximately 17 mm
Bracciale Bulgari Serpenti Viper full diamond in oro bianco
Bulgari Serpenti Viper full diamond bracelet in white gold
Audemars Piguet modello Royal Oak, con movimento a carica automatica
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak model, with self-winding movement

Pianegonda Tecum for mom

Who doesn’t want to spend a long time with his mother? The holiday dedicated to the most important woman in everyone’s life is celebrated all over the world. And Pianegonda, the silver jewelery brand of the Bros Manifatture group, is relaunching the Tecum collection for the occasion, a Latin word that means with you. With mom, exactly. The collection also features some new features, such as the necklace which, alongside silver, uses links blue, bronze and rose gold finishes. Or the ring which, alongside the 925 silver, features a pavé of white cubic zirconia crystals, also used for other pieces in the collection.

Bracciale rigido in argento
Silver bangle

There is also a large rigid bracelet with a hidden opening system, which allows for easier use. The special design used for the links of the necklaces should be highlighted, with rings that can be composed of one, two or three bands. The collection also continues to include pieces that use stones such as amethyst, topaz or black agate for earrings or rings.
Anello in argento con cubic zirconia
Silver ring with cubic zirconia

Bracciale in argento 925
925 silver bracelet

Bracciale in argento della collezione Tecum
Silver bracelet from the Tecum collection

Anello in argento della collezione Tecum
Silver ring from the Tecum collection

Changing your life with the NisidArte project

The young people staying at the penal institute for minors in Nisida (Naples) are involved in the NisidArte – Officine creative project. It is a laboratory conceived and made operational by the Il Migliore di Te Onlus Foundation, thanks to which the children handcraft copper and brass jewellery. Commendable initiative with interesting results proposed on the occasion of Mother’s Day. The protagonists are the rigid necklaces: maxi-hearts, stylized roses and ginkgo biloba leaves, also available in earring versions, but also key rings and house-shaped bookmarks with a contrasting little heart in red enamel and star earrings. They are handmade jewellery, the sale of which goes to support training courses and work preparation projects, intended for some young inmates of the Nisida juvenile prison. The jewels of the NisidArte project can be purchased on the website www.ilmegliodite.it/shop

Collana con foglia di ginko
Ginko leaf necklace

The laboratory that sees the birth of these original creations intends to transfer the right know-how to the children in view of their return to society. One of our main objectives is, in fact, to make them understand that, thanks to a rewarding job, many new opportunities can arise to rebuild their lives.
Fulvia Russo, president of the Il Migliore di Te Onlus Foundation

Orecchino con cuore
Heart earring
Orecchini stella marina
Starfish earrings
Orecchini con foglia di ginko
Ginko leaf earrings

The seasons with Gardenia by Amabile Jewels

Gardenias bloom in spring, a plant capable of producing flowers with an irresistible and certainly lovable scent. Perhaps with this thought, the young brand Amabile Jewels offers the Gardenia collection in natural silver, or in a gold-plated version. Although, in reality, the collection is not only inspired by the fragrant gardenia flower, but also by the world of fruit and the seasons they represent.

Anello in argento con cubic zirconia
Silver ring with cubic zirconia

We closed our eyes and imagined a garden that reflected our style and inspired joy, liveliness and carefreeness. Thus was born a collection entirely dedicated to fruit, rich in colors and embellished with the brightness of zircons.
Martina Strazzer, CEO of Amabile

Martina Strazzer
Martina Strazzer

So: there are strawberries and cherries for spring, lemons and watermelon for summer, grapes for autumn and the apple to represent winter. The pastel set is added to the fruit line: in this case the protagonists are the cubic zirconia crystals proposed in delicate shades. Amabile also offers the possibility of purchasing a selection of jewels from the collection enclosed in a book-shaped box, Volume. Also dedicated to those who never read.
Bracciale tennis con cubic zirconia
Tennis bracelet with cubic zirconia

Volume con gioielli della collezione Gardenia
Book-package with jewels from the Gardenia collection
Orecchini della collezione Gardenia
Earrings from the Gardenia collection
Collana in argento della collezione Gardenia
Silver necklace from the Gardenia collection

The ancient Trypillia culture in GemGèneve

The jewelry industry of war-torn Ukraine returns to GemGèneve, the only industry event that has opened a special space to encourage the sector of that country. The driving force behind the initiative is the Strong and Precious Art Foundation, an organization created to support Ukrainian jewelers, which will participate in the Beyond Time exhibition, inspired by Trypillia. The exhibition showcases the rich heritage of Trypillian culture, spanning a period from 5,500 BC. around 2,750 BC. This culture spread across the territory of what is now Ukraine, as far as Romania and Moldavia, and represents an important chapter in European history. The production of the Trypillian period is characterized by red and orange ceramics decorated with curvilinear designs. The Tripillian peoples practiced agriculture and engaged in intricate rituals.

I Trypilliani si consideravano parte integrante della natura, adorando il concetto di femminilità e grano pionieristico tecniche di lavorazione e conservazione, il tutto vivendo in simbiosi armonia con l'ambiente circostante. Il ciondolo Dea Madre mostra il simbolo di Berehynia (Dea Madre in ucraino), incarnando l'infinito energia e resilienza femminile. Oro giallo e bianco 18 carati e diamanti
The Trypillians considered themselves an integral part of nature, worshiping the concept of femininity and pioneering grain processing and preservation techniques, all while living in symbiosis harmony with their surroundings. The Mother Goddess pendant displays the symbol of Berehynia (Mother Goddess in Ukrainian), embodying infinite feminine energy and resilience. 18k yellow and white gold and diamonds

Our exhibition aims to celebrate the cultural heritage of the Trypillian people and showcase the talent of Ukrainian jewelers. Through our collaboration with GemGenève, we are committed to highlighting Ukraine’s rich jewelry heritage to an international audience.
Olga Oleksenko founder of the Strong and Precious Art Foundation

Olga Oleksenko
Olga Oleksenko

The exhibition will feature projects by emerging Ukrainian designers and established Ukrainian brands, unified by strong symbolism and meaning, designed exclusively for the 8th edition of GemGenève. Komendat, Aga.te, Anton Boyko and GeO x Iryna Vasylenko will participate in the art foundation collective for the first time, joining previously represented designers Drutis, Inesa Kovalova, Iryna Karpova, Nomis and Oberig.
The Strong and Precious Art Foundation is also collaborating with ceramic artist Victoria Yakusha, with designs made by furniture band Faina.
L'albero simboleggia il legame senza tempo tra generazioni, che rappresenta la forza duratura e il sostegno della parentela. Le sue radici ci significano patrimonio ancestrale, fornendo nutrimento per l'evoluzione personale, durante la corona incarna la continuazione della bellezza e dell'abbondanza della vita, nutrendo il futuro generazioni con luce e calore. Realizzato in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e quarzo, questo pendente di Oberig incarna l'essenza dell'amore e dell'eredità familiare
The tree symbolizes the timeless bond between generations, representing the lasting strength and support of kinship. Its roots signify us ancestral heritage, providing nourishment for personal evolution, while the crown embodies the continuation of the beauty and abundance of life, nourishing future generations with light and warmth. Crafted in 18k yellow gold, diamonds and quartz, this pendant from Oberig embodies the essence of love and family legacy

Orecchini by Inesa Kovalova
Earrings by Inesa Kovalova
Bracciale by Drutis
Bracelet by Drutis

The waves of Akaila Reid

Getting carried away by the waves can be enjoyable. Equally pleasant is wearing them. Although Akaila Johnson’s Wavy-Baby collection is actually inspired by the waves of a heart rate monitor. The Californian designer in 2020 founded the Akaila Reid brand (from the surname of her maternal grandmother) in New York City and created a collection of jewels inspired by the movement of waves, soft and slightly irregular. The jewels are in gold and are embellished with diamonds, although the designer also loves other stones, such as blue sapphire.

Bracciale in oro con diamanti
Gold bracelet with diamonds

A passion, that for jewelry, that she was born as a child, when she received a Tiffany silver necklace as a gift. Art and design were encouraged by the grandmother. When she moved to New York she lived on the Giaì campus for two years, encouraged by her mother. She studied gemology and jewelry design (both hand mechanical rendering and computer aided design) and worked hard to create her own little Maison, supported by Ruby Grace, a French bulldog. Her idea is to create original jewels that can be worn every day, even with very informal clothing. She succeeded.

Anello Toi et Moi in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Toi et Moi ring in 18k gold and diamonds
Collana con pendente in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Necklace with pendant in 18k gold and diamonds
Collana Wavy-Baby in oro 18 carati
Wavy-Baby necklace in 18k gold
Anello Ridge Edge Solitaire in oro 18 carati e diamanti di 1,5 carati
Ridge Edge Solitaire ring in 18k gold and 1.5 carats of diamonds
Anello in oro 18 carati
18k gold ring
Anello con zaffiro e diamanti
Gold ring with sapphire and diamonds

The drops of Pdpaola

Silver jewelery with 18k gold plating, which also uses cubic zirconia crystals together with natural gems. It is the recipe based on the Icons collection by Pdpaola. The Spanish brand offers a line of jewelery that includes earrings, rings and necklaces with a style that plays around the shape of the drop. The jewels, with the exception of the rings, which are set with a capochon-cut gem or a pavé of cubic zirconia, adopt an elongated but very soft pendant. The drop is made of metal, gold-plated silver, or semi-precious stones, such as aventurine of various colors (green, yellow) or labradorite.

Collana della collezione Icons indossata
Necklace from the Icons collection worn

The two stones are cut with a convex and circular shape for the rings, or a teardrop shape for the earrings and pendants to add to the necklaces. The pendants can obviously be added in the desired number. A necklace with gold-plated silver drops is offered at 149 euros, the ring at 79 or 99 euros, a single earrings at 49 or 59 euros.

Orecchini con pavé di cubic zirconia e avventurina
Earrings with cubic zirconia and aventurine pavé
Girocollo in argento
Silver choker
Anello in argento placcato oro e cubic zirconia
Ring in gold plated silver and cubic zirconia
Anelli in avventurina verde e gialla
Green and yellow aventurine rings

Time is a jewel for Stenzhorn

The passage of time is a mystery described by physics, but still obscure for the life of human beings. No less elusive, except to watchmaking engineers, are the mechanisms of machines that measure hours, minutes and seconds. The result, sometimes, remains indecipherable even to the human eye. As with the Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn, a German high jewelery house, with forays into high watchmaking too. The peculiarity of this watch lies in its transparent dial without a central hand. The indication of the hours and minutes are mysterious. It is not, obviously, to be used to measure performance in a sporting competition: the watch is above all an exercise in sophisticated goldsmith engineering.

Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn
Mystery Clock by Stenzhorn

Marking the passage of time is a floating 1.5-carat pear-shaped diamond, which takes the place of the traditional hand. The diamond rotates to indicate the hours, while exquisite amethysts mark the 12-hour positions on the bezel. The minute display ensures precise measurement of time, with the hand returning to zero after 60 minutes have passed. Above the bezel, the day and night indication alternately shows the rising and setting of the sun and moon, perfectly synchronized with the hour indication.
La lancetta che segna i minuti
The hand that marks the minutes

This extraordinary table clock is testimony to an unprecedented watchmaking art that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking physics. Crafted from exceptionally rare pillars of rock crystal and set on a rock crystal base, this exquisite piece is meticulously adorned with 23.78 carats of diamonds, lapis lazuli, moonstone and 18k gold elements, all elegantly encased in titanium . Weighing approximately 5 kilograms, the masterpiece is operated via a single button discreetly positioned on the back, ensuring simple operation without compromising aesthetics.
Il Mystery Clock è realizzato con colonne di cristallo di rocca, su una base di cristallo di rocca, e ornato con 23,78 carati di diamanti, lapislazzuli, pietra di luna ed elementi in oro 18 carati
The Mystery Clock is made with rock crystal pillars, on a rock crystal base, and adorned with 23.78 carats of diamonds, lapis lazuli, moonstone and 18k gold elements

A similar exercise in style and technique is the pendant which follows the same technique, but can be worn like a jewel. In this case the diamond that moves like the hands of the watch has a round shape, while the hours are indicated with small emeralds inside a pavé of diamonds that delimits the dial. The pendant also uses semi-precious stones such as amethyst, chiroprase, onyx and small pearls to form a tassel which gives the jewel-watch a slimmer appearance.
Mystery Watch Pendant
Mystery Watch Pendant

Enchanté earrings and rings by Chantecler

There are three new sets presented by Chantecler for the Enchanté collection. In 2024, the Maison di Capri will celebrate the 80th anniversary of its most famous icon, the bell. But, at the same time, it presents new features in its most famous collections. Enchantment is the key word of the line of jewelery that uses gold and semi-precious stones, surrounded by a thin line made up of small diamonds. The result is jewelery with soft and modern lines: earrings and rings follow the same stylistic formula to be able to be worn without problems in the most diverse situations.

Anello in oro satinato, malachite, diamanti
Ring in satin gold, malachite, diamonds

The jewels of the Enchanté collection are made with translucent gems cut into an oval shape such as lapis lazuli, malachite and moonstone, set in rings and earrings of satin and sandblasted yellow and rose gold. The setting and structure of the ring and earrings follow and support the stone without gaps or edges of any kind, helping to make the volume design of the jewel soft.
Orecchini in oro e pietra luna
Gold and moonstone earrings

Anello in oro, diamanti e pietra luna
Ring in gold, diamonds and moonstone

Orecchini in oro, diamanti e lapislazzuli
Earrings in gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli

Anello in oro, diamanti e lapislazzuli
Ring in gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli

More space for Dubai’s JGTD

Jewelery in Dubai with the third edition of JGTD, which will take place from 12 to 14 November. The new date replaces the previous February appointments. Ieg, the company that organizes the event together with Informa Markets Jewelery in the United Arab Emirates, anticipates some of the features expected for the Jewellery, Gem & Technology in Dubai. There will be around ten exhibition areas, including four new national pavilions. The fair is reserved for sector operators, such as Vicenzaoro, and will take place in its new location, Pavilions 1 and 2 south of the Dubai Exhibition Center in Expo City. In previous years the venue had been the Dubai World Trade Center. The DEC is considered a cutting-edge venue, spanning 45,000 square meters and can host customizable events and 14 exhibition and multi-purpose rooms.

JGTD 2023
JGTD 2023

JGTD is a premium destination for jewelery markets, thanks to easy access to Dubai. This event is enhanced by an expanded range of offerings, its new dates and venue and strong industry support. More importantly, JGTD responds to the evolving dynamics of the B2B purchasing process, meeting the industry’s need for faster sourcing cycles to meet the evolving preferences of its customers across the Middle East, Africa, Asia and other regions.
Marco Carniello, Chief Business Officer of Ieg

Marco Carniello
Marco Carniello

According to Celine Lau, director of jewelry fairs at Informa Markets Jewellery, the new November date offers buyers the opportunity to replenish their stocks before the end of the year and the start of the holiday season. JGTD will be held simultaneously with Dubai Diamond Week, organized by the fair’s official partner, Dubai Multi Commodities Centre. It is a platform that, in addition to JGTD, includes the planned Kimberley Process plenary session.
JGTD, buyers
JGTD 2023, buyers

The four new national pavilions will be dedicated to China, Sri Lanka, Thailand and the United States, in addition to representatives of Hong Kong, India, Italy and Turkey. The fair has also received strong support from the Gem & Jewelery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), India’s leading industry organisation. Around 400 exhibitors are expected, representing 25 countries and regions.

JGTD edizione 2023
JGTD 2023 edition

Corner at Rinascente Roma for Pianegonda

Pianegonda, a brand that is part of the Bros Manifatture group, opens a corner and two windows at the Rinascente in Rome, in Via del Tritone. The opening is considered a significant stage in the expansion of the Maison specializing in silver jewelery in the luxury market: the brands hosted in the store have a medium-high positioning. and the choice of the store in Via del Tritone, one of the luxury shopping areas in Rome, testifies to the desire to position itself in high-end jewellery. The Pianegonda corner and the two dedicated windows are designed to immerse visitors in the brand’s universe, with the best-selling silver collections in natural or golden versions.

Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma
Pianegonda, la Rinascente, Roma

The inauguration of the corner was also the occasion for the presentation of the Assoluto collection designed by creative director Betony Vernon. With this opening, Pianegonda confirms its retail development strategy, aiming to expand to important national and international locations in the coming months.
Bracciale rigido in argento
Rigid open silver bracelet from the Assoluto collection

(Italiano) Gioielli di Amen per la Festa della Mamma

Mother’s Day is also a special day for those who produce jewellery, which have always been one of the favorite gifts for the most important woman in every human being’s life. Amen, a Tuscan jewelery brand at affordable prices, also takes part in the party with her proposals. Like the Gioie di Mamma collection, a tribute to the unique and special bond that is established between mothers and children. The jewels are characterized by heart-shaped pendants in silver, cubic zirconia and colored enamel.

Ciondolo Gioie di Mamma
Gioie di Mamma Pendant

Another proposal is the Call Angels line, inspired by the Christian symbol of protection. Each bell emits a delicate sound which, according to tradition, indicates the presence of a guardian angel near the pregnant woman and the child. The Call Angels series is available in three variants. Furthermore, for Mother’s Day, Amen offers a free bracelet to those who incur a cost of at least 80 euros. The bracelet is in silver, with cubic zirconia cut in the shape of a heart.
Bracciale con cubic zirconia a cuore
Bracelet with heart-shaped cubic zirconia

Ciondolo con cubic zirconia rosa
Pendant with pink cubic zirconia

Not only Rolex at auction with Nomisma

Rolex and collectible watches from other brands up for auction with Nomisma Aste. The auction is scheduled for Sunday 5 May 2024 starting from 3 pm at Villa Mosconi Bertani (via Novare, 2 37024 Arbizzano-Santa Maria (Verona) in the heart of Valpolicella. On sale a selection of 186 lots including watches, pens collection and objects. Among the contemporary watch brands there are pieces by Omega, such as the Speedmaster Apollo XI, a limited edition that celebrates the 25th anniversary of the space mission that brought the first men to the moon.

Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 25th Anniversary Limited Edition
Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI 25th Anniversary Limited Edition

Also noteworthy are examples of the Da Vinci series of the IWC brand and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph timepiece, known for having been worn by the actor Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film Terminator 3. Of the Rolex brands, the Daytona Beach Blue stands out, the color most sought after by collectors of the series, the Daytona Chocolate and the Daytona 16518 with Zenith movement and dial with diamond indexes. Not to forget the Rolex Submariner Big Crown, also known by collectors as James Bond: the actor Sean Connery, in fact, wore it in a film of the series. Also in the catalog are collectible pens.

Participation in the auction can take place in person, upon reservation, or from home, by connecting to the Bid Inside platform.

Rolex Daytona Chocolate
Rolex Daytona Chocolate

Iwc Novecento
Iwc Novecento

Italian gold sector grew by 7.4%, but now…

In 2023, the turnover of the goldsmith sector in Italy grew by 7.4%. This is indicated by the Goldsmiths’ Club-Intesa Sanpaolo Report commented during the association’s annual meeting, hosted at the Unoaerre headquarters. According to the report, the sector exported over 10 billion in 2023, with growth of 11% in value and 7.1% in quantity. The top markets are the USA (+7%) and Switzerland (+20.7%). But 2024 opened with the prospect of a slowdown: according to the analysis, clear signs of a change in direction of the international cycle have emerged. The survey of business sentiment carried out by the Club degli Orafi and Intesa Sanpaolo at the end of 2023 had already shown that the main concern is the decline in orders, in particular on the domestic market, which in the space of a few months has overcome all other critical issues, also that of finding manpower. Corporate investments, however, do not appear to have slowed down. Investments continue to be made in Italian companies.

Artigiani al lavoro nel laboratorio Boccadamo
Craftsmen at work in the Boccadamo laboratory

During the meeting, the passing of the baton also took place between the outgoing president, Giorgio Villa (8853 spA) and the newly elected Maria Cristina Squarcialupi (Unoaerre Industries) and the vice president Mauro di Roberto (Bulgari).

They have been three exciting years, which have seen the Goldsmiths’ Club strengthen its activity in terms of promoting goldsmith excellence, developing new project ideas and meeting opportunities. We have brought the world of jewelery even closer to that of art, launched the observatory on digital marketing, created a project in response to the training needs in the field for Italian companies, a study on the new dynamics of retail and implemented the work of investigation into the sector thanks to the increasingly close collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo. I leave to my colleague Maria Cristina Squarcialupi a representative Club recognized as a privileged interlocutor on the national and foreign scene, with the certainty that it will continue and strengthen the development process undertaken.
Giorgio Villa

Giorgio Villa
Giorgio Villa

I am honored by the trust placed in me by the Club Members and I particularly thank Giorgio Villa for his extraordinary commitment. I intend to continue on the path traced, working for the increasingly clear recognition of the uniqueness of the Italian gold and jewelery sector. I know I can count on the precious contribution of all the Club Members and a strong Board of Directors representative of all the souls of the sector.
Maria Cristina Squarcialupi

The presidential team is completed by the councilors Candido Operti (Antica Orologeria Candido Operti), Antonio Songa (Songa Antonio), Giorgio Villa (8853 spa), the past presidents Andrea Broggian, Luciano Mattioli and Augusto Ungarelli and the arbitrators Francesco Bonacci, Giancarlo De Paulis and Paolo Valentini.

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Crieri
Jewellery manufacturing in the Crieri atelier

The Coral by Giovanni Raspini

Coral turns into silver in Giovanni Raspini’s new collection. It is not the first line of jewelery that the Tuscan brand dedicates to the marine world, an environment that inspired the founder’s creative mind. The new collection is called Coral and uses shapes and volumes of the underwater plant which, in reality, is composed of tiny organisms typically gathered in branched colonies. The collection does not lose sight of the typical style of the Maison, specialized in silver jewellery. But, as with other collections, a gold-plated jewelry version is also offered for Coral.

Collezione Coral in argento naturale indossata
Coral collection in natural silver

As the name of the line suggests, the jewels have a design that reproduces the natural ramifications of marine corals. The collection includes a bracelet, two necklaces, two rings, four earrings (including a pair of right or left ear cuffs, thus experimenting with the shape that wraps the auricle), in both versions: natural silver or gilded .
Collezione Coral in argento dorato indossata
Coral collection in gilded silver

Collana in argento dorato
Golden silver necklace
Orecchini pendenti in argento
Silver pendant earrings
Ear cuff in argento
Silver ear cuff

Buccellati’s in exhibition in Venice

The history of Buccellati, one of the historic Maisons of Italian jewellery, which today is part of the Richemont group, on display. The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics is dedicated to the brand founded over a century ago, which includes pieces of high jewelry that summarize the history and craftsmanship of Buccellati. The exhibition (18 April-18 June 2024) is hosted in the spaces of Oficine 800 on the Giudecca canal, Venice. The creative concept and creation are by Balich Wonder Studio, while the care was entrusted to Alba Cappellieri, who selected the precious jewels made with the typical burin technique of Florentine goldsmithing (the Buccellati family, who have been operating in Milan since the beginning of last century, are of Tuscan origin).

Una collana nella sala The Gallery of the Icons
A series in The Gallery of the Icons room

The title of the exhibition, The Prince of Goldsmiths, alludes to the definition attributed to Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of the most influential Italian writers and poets of the twentieth century, who in 1936 defined Mario Buccellati in this way. And, given that Buccellati’s style inherits the goldsmith tradition that dates back to the Renaissance, the theme of the exhibition is Rediscovering the Classics, the rediscovery of the classics.

Orecchini Cockatil in oro, morganite, diamanti
Earrings in gold, morganite, diamonds

The classics offer the pleasure of rediscovery, evoking timeless worlds of elegance, art and nature. Retracing them means reinterpreting age-old traditions and forms with an ever-present look. This is the objective of the exhibition, an even more precious moment for us as it is hosted in Venice.
Andrea Buccellati, creative director and honorary president

Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati
Andrea Buccellati, Maria Cristina Buccellati, Lucrezia Buccellati, Luca Buccellati

Buccellati is not just jewels. The exhibition also offers a panorama of artistic silver conceived as objects for the home, which added luster to the history of the Maison.

This exhibition is a wonderful time machine that takes us on a journey from the beginning of the twentieth century, when Mario created sublime objects for Gabriele d’Annunzio and his muses, to the seventies in which Gianmaria modeled the goldsmith techniques of the Renaissance with the color of his sumptuous cocktail jewelry. Until the present, which Andrea interprets with the contemporary elegance of his Cuff bracelets and his soft sets. The Buccellati show us that without a past there is no future.
Alba Cappellieri, Professor of Jewelery Design at the Polytechnic of Milan

Alba Cappelieri
Alba Cappelieri

One of the symbolic jewels is a butterfly, the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly, created for the occasion, and which guides each section from the first room: always a symbol of the Maison and of the generations of the family who guided its creative direction, the butterfly embodies the evolution and soul of Buccellati, representing its phases in different forms.

Venezia Butterfly
Venezia Butterfly

For the exhibition Marco Balich was inspired by the distinctive, long and narrow shape of Oficine 800, dividing them into two parallel sections. A play of lines and geometries traces an ideal perspective line, which becomes the path for the visitor: sometimes it is an imaginary path guided by video installations, other times the perspective is infinitely multiplied, thanks to a clever play of mirrors.

The Gallery of the Icons
The Gallery of the Icons

The icons of Buccellati’s goldsmith production blend perfectly with the symbols of our artistic heritage, such as Cupid and Psyche. The exhibition celebrates the beauty of the Maison’s creations and classical arts in a timeless city through a contemporary reading and emotional direction, capable of generating wonder.
Marco Balich, Chairman of Balich Wonder Studio

Lavorazione a bulino di Venezia Butterfly
Burin work of Venezia Butterfly

The first room, The Buccellati Generations, immediately shows the design of the wings of the Buccellati Venezia Butterfly. The second room, Manmade Wonders, reveals precious silver creations, including boxes, smoking accessories and handbags, all evidence of the Maison’s craftsmanship. The third room, Natural Wonders, offers silver masterpieces, characteristic of the Buccellati style, which stands out for what in the Renaissance was referred to as the Subtle Art, or the art of masterfully working silver. It exemplifies the artisanal skill of the Buccellati masters in ancient manufacturing techniques, such as embossing and chisel to create leaves, buds, shells and lush creatures, including crustaceans, marine animals, feathers and fur masterfully recreated with the Furry technique. The last room, The Gallery of the Icons, an infinite, completely white gallery, features a series of columns with a neoclassical style, arranged in two parallel and opposite rows, creating a multiplier visual effect. In this almost surreal environment, the jewels are displayed in a transparent section, created in the columns at eye level, almost as if they were floating beings. The four central columns of the room show the main distinctive techniques of the Maison: Tulle, Lace, Engraving and Chaining.

Una farfalla in oro, perla barocca e smeraldi nella sala The Buccellati Generations
A butterfly in gold, baroque pearl and emeralds in The Buccellati Generations room
Gianluca Brozzetti, vicepresidente esecutivo, e Nicolas Luchsinger, Ceo di Buccellati
Gianluca Brozzetti, executive vice president, and Nicolas Luchsinger, CEO of Buccellati
L'installazione alla mostra The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Exhibition The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics
Boutique Buccellati in Place Vendôme, 1979
Buccellati boutique on Place Vendôme, 1979
Una storica tiara di Buccellati in mostra a Venezia
A historic tiara by Buccellati on display in Venice

J’Or’s new creativity

There is a brand that has chosen Haute Jewels Geneva as its stage to present itself to the world of high jewelry: J’Or. But, even if the name of the Maison marked the debut among the big names in Geneva, behind it there is the long experience together with the parent company, Oroproject. The Rome-based company has been active for over twenty years as a third-party manufacturer in the world of jewellery. The Maison was founded in 1986 by Lorenzo and Barbara Gelpi, now assisted by their sons Filippo and Lorenzo, who deal with sales and creative direction.

J'Or, pendente della collezione Over the Sea con tanzanite di 35,84 carati, zaffiri, diamanti, madreperla, titanio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
J’Or, pendant from the Over the Sea collection with 35.84 carats tanzanite, sapphires, diamonds, mother of pearl, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For a couple of years J’Or has decided to launch itself into the high-end jewelery segment with new collections. The manufacturing ability, which is part of the company’s identity, has therefore taken the path of collections such as Over the Sea or Gothica, with the use of large stones such as tanzanite and kunzite, together with mother of pearl, gold, titanium and diamonds. Large rings, chokers, pendants, earrings: the jewels are perfectly made, together with an original creative style.
JOr anello con tanzanite 1723 ct zaffiri diam madreperla coll over the sea titanio copyright gioiellis 1
Ring from the Over the Sea collection with 17.23 carat tanzanite, sapphires, diamonds, mother of pearl, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello della collezione Gothica con kunzite di 19,94 carati taglio cushion, madreperla grigia, diamanti, oro rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring from the Gothica collection with 19.94 carat cushion-cut kunzite, gray mother-of-pearl, diamonds, rose gold. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini della collezione Gothica con kunzite di 19,94 carati taglio cushion, madreperla grigia, diamanti, oro rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings from the Gothica collection with 19.94 carat cushion-cut kunzite, gray mother-of-pearl, diamonds, rose gold. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Attilio Gelpi
Attilio Gelpi
Collana della collezione Scarelt Kiss, rubellite di 13,49 carati, madreperla, oro, diamanti
Necklace from the Scarelt Kiss collection, 13.49 carat rubellite, mother of pearl, gold, diamonds
Orecchini della collezione Scarelt Kiss, rubellite, madreperla, oro, diamanti
Earrings from the Scarelt Kiss collection, rubellite, mother of pearl, gold, diamonds
Bracciale in titanio e diamanti
Titanium and diamond bracelet
jOr anello titanio diamanti diamanti oro copyright gioiellis
Titanium and diamond ring
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