The mysteries of opal in GemGèneve

The mysteries, charm and ambiguity of a gem that differs completely from the others: the opal. The eighth edition of GemGèneve (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of Palexpo, Geneva) will also offer an exhibition dedicated to the most enigmatic stone. The iridescence of opal is one of the most suggestive aspects. She was nicknamed Queen of Gemstones by William Shakespeare, and she won the favor of Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.

Series Lollipop Opal Brooch, with diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium
A.Win Siu, Lollipop brooch with opal, diamonds, tanzanite, tsavorite, enamel, aluminum

The exhibition, Flames of Opal Essence, is divided into a selection of around 50 jewels and works of art with a journey through the mysteries of iridescence. The scenography designed by the Autre Idée agency highlights all the properties of this stone. The exhibition is curated by the director of GemGenève, Mathieu Dekeukelaire, with the support of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva, Piaget, Imagem and Boris Chauviré, doctor of mineralogy at GeoGems, as scientific collaborator.

Thanks to the dialogue between jewels and contemporary art, Flames of Opal Essence traces a sensorial, graphic and initiatory journey to reveal all the mysteries of iridescence.
Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors

Nadège Totah. Photo David Fraga
Nadège Totah. Photo: David Fraga

In its collections, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva (MAH) has numerous antique pieces set with opals. Some will be on display in the exhibition, such as a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, with an opal set, which hides a tiny secret compartment in which a child’s thin lock of hair is kept.

Vhernier, spille con opale, cristallo di rocca e diamanti. Faerber Collection
Vhernier, brooches with opal, rock crystal and diamonds. Faerber Collection

Due to its characteristics, opal was long considered a cursed and unloved stone in ancient times. For this reason it was rarely used in jewelry before the 19th century.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Imagem, dettaglio di opale
Imagem, detail of opal
Kreis Jewellery, anello con opale nero australiano di 8,80 carati
Kreis Jewellery, 8.80 carat Australian black opal ring
piaget White gold. Opal dial. 44 marquise cut diamonds
Piaget, watch with opal and marquise-cut diamonds
Boris Chauviré
Boris Chauviré

New jewels from Caleida collection by Boccadamo

For spring 2024 Boccadamo presents new sets for the Caleida collection, which is part of the Mediterranean Line of the maison and is one of the most requested of the Italian brand. The new jewels use cubic zirconia which match the three versions with rose, yellow and rhodium gold plating. The jewels are offered with two designs: the most essential includes single pendants, for necklaces and bracelets, or central ones, in the rings, also made in the shape of a crescent with a double drop of zircons. The second version presents a more modern style, thanks to rows of circular modules, with pavé of white zircons, which seem to create jewelery with floral shapes.

Anelli che si adattano alla misura delle dita
Rings that adapt to the size of your fingers

The jewels of the Caleida collection are conceived with contrasts between smooth and brilliant surfaces, with a design in line with current trends, combinations of circular elements and double drop modules, which create feminine crescents and harmonious profiles, for an effect of great richness which is reflected on the entire collection.

Bracciale rodiato della collezione Caleida
Rhodium-plated bracelet from the Caleida collection
Collane con pendenti
Necklaces with pendants
Bracciale placcato oro giallo e cubic zirconia
Yellow gold plated bracelet with cubic zirconia

Brosway opens in Genoa in make-up style

Brosway opens a new flagship store in the heart of Genoa. The store also presents a new format, with furnishings and display solutions that recall make-up shops, with direct contact between jewelery and customer. The idea is to offer the customer to completely immerse themselves in the Brosway world, with a sensorial journey through colors and design. The boutique, explains Bros Manifatture, the company that owns the brand, represents a large showcase at an international level and an important step forward in the brand’s growth strategy with the aim of offering customers a creative shopping experience Made in Italy.

Anello Fancy in argento con cubic zirconia
Fancy ring in silver with cubic zirconia

The furnishings and display solutions of the flagship store, characterized by essential lines and warm shades ranging from white to beige with natural wood accents, create the ideal environment to enhance the women’s and men’s collections and the best-selling Fancy line, in silver and zircons, inspired by the colors of emotions which, first, introduced the concept of make-up jewelry. With a focus on color harmony, the Fancy collection offers versatile and customizable jewels «which allow the wearer to express their mood and find a personal balance, enhancing the harmony of colors on every occasion».
Orecchini Fancy in argento e cubic zirconia
Fancy earrings in silver with cubic zirconia

The 10 rules for buying a jewel on the internet

Do you want to buy a jewel on the internet? Know that you are not alone. In 2020, web searches involving jewelry increased by 28% and online jewelry sales are expected to steadily increase. But is it safe to buy jewelry on the internet? What are the dangers? How to defend yourself from scams?

Unfortunately, even if most of the people who buy jewelry on the internet have no problems, the scam is always lurking. But, thankfully, it’s not that hard to avoid getting cheated. Just follow the rules and do a few small checks before typing in your credit card number.

Acquisti su internet
Shopping on the internet

What are the dangers when buying a jewel on the internet? In 2019, for example, in the US, the FBI received an average of 1,300 reports of online theft per day (not just about jewelry, of course), for a total of $ 3.5 billion illegally stolen. The worst scam is to buy a fake jewel, perhaps a ring with the brand of a famous Maison. Or, simply, with diamonds that are not diamonds. Or diamonds born in the laboratory and not natural. Or, again, gold jewelry that turns out to be simply covered with a thin plating. Finally, the most frequent disappointment is that of finding a jewel that does not correspond to the idea suggested by the site (or the jeweler) who sold it. For example, with tiny stones, less brilliant than those in the photograph and, above all, of Lilliputian dimensions.

Shopping online in tutta comodità
Online shopping in complete convenience

So why do internet jewelry purchases keep increasing? The dangers listed are possibilities, but fortunately they are not the rule. In addition, it is very convenient to receive a ring at home (when you are not mistaken in choosing the size). For many people it is not easy to approach a jewelry store for the embarrassment of having to admit the availability of a limited budget. Or because, simply, the desired jewelry brand is not available in physical stores in your city or locality. So, don’t worry too much: following the rules for buying jewelry on the internet can make you have the advantages of online shopping without running any dangers.

Lavoro di hacking
Hacking job

1 Check who the seller is
A well-known brand will surely avoid selling pits. And it does not need to be one of the largest companies in the world, as long as the brand is large enough and well known in the area in which it operates: a company is unlikely to risk losing its credibility. But it is also important to check that the site on which you are about to make a purchase is a reliable one, that of the brand of jewelery you want to purchase or a reliable online shopping site, Luisaviaroma, Modus Operandi, or a well-known jewelery company and, above all , which really exists. To avoid unpleasant surprises, check that you are not a victim of phishing.

Meglio un controllo attento
Better to check carefully

2 Beware of mistakes
It seems trivial to say, but one of the dangers involved is to misspell the company name in the browser’s address bar. If you google Tiffany, you can be sure that the search engine will show you the right link. But if, by mistake, you write Tifany (for example) in the address bar, you can run the risk of ending up on a site that mimics the famous jewelry brand. Or, even worse, on a site built to resemble the authentic one in every way. Obviously to take possession of your data.

Non sbagliate a digitare il nome
Don’t misspell the name

3 Find out the identity of the company
If you buy a jewel from a company in your country, it will be easy to check on their website what the name of the company behind the brand is. The name of the jewelry brand, in fact, does not always correspond to that of the company that produces them. A quick web search by typing the name of the company can confirm that the company really exists, the address, the name of the owner. All information that is an extra guarantee. And if you want to be even safer, make a phone call to the company.

Controllate le «impronte digitali» dell'azienda
Check the company’s “digital footprints”

4 Beware of easy lucky
Before making a purchase, compare similar jewelry from different companies. Carats of gold, the weight of the stones, the quality of diamonds: these are all elements that affect the price of a jewel. When you have an idea of ​​how much the jewel you want to buy can cost, you can discard incredible discounts, unmissable offers, stratospheric discounts that are about to expire on sites other than those of a well-known manufacturer. It is probably fraud.

Diffidate dei colpi di fortuna
Be wary of lucky breaks

5 Avoid public wi-fi networks
You are at the airport and you have boring hours in front of you waiting to board the plane. To distract yourself, decide to go shopping with your smartphone. Mistaken. If you use public wi-fi networks, the danger is around the corner. There may be a cybercriminal around you just waiting for some gullible to enter your credit card number. The public networks, in fact, are very convenient, but also at risk if you venture into shopping. Fortunately, however, there is a remedy: use a VPN: a virtual private network makes your connection impenetrable. It is a service that can be purchased for a few euros or dollars a month.

Courtesy: comparitech.com
Courtesy: comparitech.com

6 Beware of passwords
It seems incredible, but even for 2020 the most widespread password worldwide is 123456. An invitation to dinner for those who want to steal your data. Use passwords that are difficult to guess, with a mix of lowercase and uppercase numbers, letters, and symbols. Avoid birth dates and names of children and partners. Think of a movie, place or book that is important to you and start from that. Don’t use the same password for different sites.

File che contiene alcune password criptate
File containing some encrypted passwords

7 Pay attention to the abbreviation at the top left
E-commerce sites, as well as banks or where money passes, must have the web address preceded by https: //. These letters indicate that the site is protected with SSL (secure socket layer) encryption. If an e-commerce site starts with http only, it means that it is not secure and is probably very suspicious.

Shopping con lo smartphone
Shopping with smartphone

8 Credit card is better
A credit card does not allow the seller to directly access the money in your bank account. Additionally, most credit cards offer refund liability in the event of fraud. Therefore, a credit card is better than a debit card (such as an ATM).

Carte di credito
Credit cards

9 Consider a virtual credit card
To purchase a jewel, you can use a virtual credit card, basically a temporary card number that is linked to the real credit card account. In this way, in the event of data theft, the damage will be limited.

Shopping online
Shopping online

10 Size matters
One of the biggest disappointments is to receive a jewel that turns out to be much smaller than expected. Yet on the site it looked so big … Before buying a jewel, check the dimensions described carefully and try to compare them to a jewel you already own. You will realize the differences and avoid bad surprises.

Shopping da Tiffany
Shopping at Tiffany’s

Gismondi 1754 aims to consolidate the business

More investments and a little less profits for Gismondi 1754, which has announced its 2023 budget results. The Genoese company, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan of the Italian Stock Exchange, last year purchased Vendorafa and Hyperion Lab, as well as having a five-year franchising agreement was signed (with the option of renewal between the parties upon expiry) with the Al Mana family (Qatar) for the distribution of the Italian brand’s jewels in the Gulf area: operations which are reflected in the economic result. In addition to having approved the financial statements, the board of directors decided to propose to the shareholders’ meeting changes to the regulation of the Gismondi 1754 Warrants, scheduled to expire in 2024 and extended to 2026, with a new price and the objective of allowing «holders of the Warrants a longer time for exercise”. The effect is also to extend the subscription deadline for the necessary capital increase, with clear financial benefit for the company.

Bracciale in oro rosa e zaffiri rosa di Gismondi 1754
Bracelet in pink gold and pink sapphires by Gismondi 1754

Despite the continuation of the state of socioeconomic uncertainty – determined by the wars and the Chinese crisis and despite the end of the revenge shopping effect which positively influenced the 2021/2022 turnover – I am very satisfied with the results achieved, as the company has demonstrated readiness and flexibility in facing the negative scenario that has affected the entire luxury segment. Even with the right prudence, I am confident in the future because the actions taken for total control of the supply chain, thanks to the acquisition of Hyperionlab, will allow us to expand our business with greater profits.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

In summary, Gismondi 1754 shows a production value of 14.5 million for 2023, a decrease of 4%. Consolidated Ebitda (gross profit) decreased from 20% in 2022 (3 million) to 7% in 2023 (970,493). As a result, net profit also decreased to 35,335 compared to 1.6 million in 2022. For 2024 the company expects the development of the high range and strengthening of the new Vendorafa collections, together with rationalization and cost optimization of the network of directly managed stores and a boost from the opening of the first franchise store in Doha.
Collana Foglie in oro e diamanti arrivata seconda al Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Foglie necklace by Vendorafa, in gold and diamonds, came second at the Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gold at record, will it continue to rise?

Gold has reached an all-time high: will it continue to rise? Or was it just a blaze destined to go out? The answer interests both the world of jewelry and those who invest in the yellow metal. Everyone knows that the future is unpredictable even for the most experienced analysts. However, it is possible to draw a picture that can offer some indications.
oro 1 anno

At the beginning of March, gold prices in New York exceeded 2,140 dollars an ounce, with a peak of 2,145.40 dollars. Yet the previous record had been reached only three months earlier: on 4 December the value of gold had risen to 2,135 dollars, but then fell. The fundamental point, however, according to experts, is the exceeding of the 2,000 dollar mark in mid-February: a psychological threshold, which opens up to any scenario, so much so that in a week the yellow metal has increased by around 100 dollars.

Polsini in oro giallo a forma di vite e bullone. Prezzo: 4200 euro
Villa Gioielleria. Yellow gold screw and bolt shaped cufflinks

Why has the value of gold risen so much? There are two main factors: the geopolitical tensions that push towards safe haven assets and the maneuvers of large investment funds. The first factor is simple to understand: war in the Middle East, war in Ukraine, American elections which can be a factor of further uncertainty. Reasons that push many investors to bet part of their money on the solidity of gold. This factor conditions some investment funds which, also due to the algorithms that determine portfolio choices, join the trend. In this way they further fuel the rise in prices.
Bracciale in oro con la forma di teschio di ariete
Gold bracelet in the shape of a ram skull by Vicky Shawe. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Warning: it is not an automatic mechanism, destined to repeat itself forever. Another aspect that affects the price of gold is, for example, the trend in interest rates. Investors expect the Federal Reserve, the American central bank, to reduce rates as inflation appears to be under control. This expectation affects the yield of American government bonds and the price of the Treasury Bond has already partly reflected these expectations. If the value of bonds falls, many investors think, an alternative is to buy gold. Of course, if the Fed were to not lower rates and the wars around the world were to end or, at least, find a truce, gold would probably lose part of its appeal, with a reduction in prices.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

The Maestro Anniversary engagement rings by Recarlo

Spring is the season of flowers, but also of love. It is at this time of year that more weddings are celebrated and most engagements are announced. A special moment which, according to tradition, is accompanied by the gift of a ring, symbol of sentimental commitment. Recarlo is a brand specialized in jewelery dedicated to these unforgettable moments. And for 2024 the Valenza Maison presents Anniversary Maestro, an edition of the solitaire dedicated to the declaration of love and the request for marriage. Anniversary Maestro is the most precious reinterpretation of the classic Anniversary solitaire, made famous by its heart-shaped setting.

Anello Anniversary Maestro in oro giallo e diamanti
Anniversary Maestro engagement ring in yellow gold and diamonds

For some time now, Recarlo has chosen to enrich a large part of its jewelery with heart-cut diamonds, to underline the dedication of the jewel to the loved one. In this case, however, the setting holds two heart-cut diamonds ready to support the round central diamond. Anniversary Maestro is available in yellow gold in the sunset gold shade, with a slight shade towards pink, and in white gold, defined as arctic gold. Each version is available in three different carats, obviously with different price ranges.

Hearts on Fire’s perfect diamonds

Perfect diamonds and burning hearts. That is the dream of every couple. Like the one formed by Glenn and Susan Rothman, husband and wife, who in 1996 founded Hearts on Fire, a New York company specializing in jewelry with the most loved stone by women. Fast scroll: in 2014 the brand was bought by the largest Chinese jewelery group, Chow Tai Fook, based in Hong Kong. The company then launches several stores in mainland China. But the starting idea, that is to use high quality natural diamonds, transparent and without inclusions, remains the same.

Aerial Sunburst Wrap earrings
Aerial Sunburst Wrap earrings

Diamonds that meet these standards are one-tenth of 1% of rough diamonds mined. Not only that: a particular patented Hearts On Fire cut has been designed to let as much light as possible into the stone and increase its reflections. It should also be added that the diamonds are guaranteed 100% compliant with the Kimberley Process (i.e. of controlled origin also from an ethical point of view). In 2012 Hearts On Fire hired Ilaria Lanzoni as the first official director of Design.
Lu Diamond Band Ring
Lu Diamond Band Ring

How does Hearts On Fire differ from others? The Maison explains that the cutting process of a diamond, which favors the round or square shape, which amplifies the beauty of a diamond, is particularly scrupulous. A precise formula is used for the cut of the diamond, which takes into account the symmetry, proportions and specific shape of each diamond. A process is so rigorous and demanding that it takes four times longer to cut a Hearts On Fire diamond than it takes to cut a diamond in the traditional way.

Orecchini Aurora in oro rosa e diamanti
Aurora earrings in rose gold and diamonds
Pendente Starburst in oro bianco e diamanti
Starburst pendant in white gold and diamonds
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco e diamanti
Pendant earrings in white gold and diamonds
Bracciale Lorelei in oro bianco e diamanti
Lorelei bracelet in white gold and diamonds
Anello Hof Enticing a tre bande in oro bianco e diamanti
Hof Enticing three-band ring in white gold and diamonds

Annamaria Cammilli with Dune Chic and Pavé

The historic Dune collection by Annamaria Cammilli, which is also the Maison’s main best-seller, is about to celebrate its quarter of a century: next year the line of jewels inspired by the wavy sandy formations of the desert, which have known a success that shows no signs of abating. The soft design of the jewels, combined with the eight varieties of gold color, which are another specialty of the Florentine brand, have however allowed countless variations on the theme.

Dune Chic Series Pendant, 18Kt Orange Apricot Gold with Diamonds
Dune Chic Series Pendant, 18Kt Orange Apricot Gold with Diamonds

As in the case of the new Dune Chic and Dune Chic Pavé lines. With necklaces, earrings and pendants that reflect the design of the original collection, and which are enriched with single or pavé diamonds. New geometries of ribbons with an essential appearance expand the range, offering a further possibility of wearing an immediately recognizable jewel (and which has many imitation attempts) by Annamaria Cammilli, who just last year celebrated 40 years of activity.

Orecchini Dune Chic Pavé, oro 18 carati Orange Apricot e diamanti
Dune Chic Pavé Series Earrings, 18Kt Orange Apricot Gold with Diamonds

Sei anelli con diverse colorazioni di oro e diamanti della collezione Dune
Six rings with different colors of gold and diamonds from the Dune collection

The new vintage chronograph from Angelus

Angelus Swiss watches have marked the history of hands. The company, founded in 1881 by brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz, now presents new timepieces from the La Fabrique, Instrument de Vitesse collection. They are watches that nod to classic racing chronometers, with a design inspired by the dashboard of a vintage GT. The chronograph that seems designed like the dashboard of a vintage English car, or an Italian sports car. The minimal and vintage style are synchronized: the watch has a simple seconds hand and measures a maximum time of one minute. Instrument de Vitesse targets lovers of watchmaking history and culture.

Cinturino in pelle di vitello caramello e quadrante nero ebano
Caramel calfskin strap and ebony black dial

The watch has a steel case measuring 39 millimeters in diameter, the hand-wound manufacture caliber of 4.20 millimeters has made it possible to obtain a total thickness of less than 10 millimetres. A version with an ivory white or ebony black dial is offered, in two limited editions of 25 pieces each.

Quadrante nero, di notte
Black dial, at night

A tachymetric scale marks the external surface of the dial, graduated from 60 to 500 and with a base of 1,000 (generally one kilometre), while the crown also becomes the only button on the watch, which activates the central seconds hand. The La Fabrique collection is designed to revive the classics of the Maison. Instrument de Vitesse is offered in two versions. The first, with a caramel calfskin strap, features an ebony black dial. The rhodium-plated, white and imposing applied Arabic numerals stand out. The second version is presented on a midnight blue nubuck strap. The ivory white dial is punctuated by black-rimmed indexes, which offer an incredible three-dimensionality to the Arabic numerals. The hour and minute hands are, like the indexes, embellished with luminescent material. Inside, the A5000 chronograph movement is the already proven Angelus one.

Cinturino in nabuk blu notte e quadrante bianco avorio
Midnight blue nubuck strap and ivory white dial

White trend for Rue Des Mille

Whiteside, spring tending towards white for Rue Des Mille, an Italian bijoux brand that chooses pearl-style elements for its collection which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings. The bijoux of the Whiteside line are made of 925 silver with 18k gold plating. The jewels also use shell pearls, small spheres also called shell pearls or fantasy pearls. They are similar to pearls produced and processed using a combination of shell powder and resin.

Orecchini in argento con galvanica oro e perle di conchiglia
Silver earrings with gold plating and shell pearls

The ring with six shell pearls is adjustable, to be worn on any finger. It is made of 925 silver, 18k gold plating and costs 75 euros. The bracelet with scooby-doo weave and central shell pearl also in 925 silver with gold plating costs 38 euros and the pair of earrings with graduated round shell pearls and cubic zirconia light point, made of 925 silver and gold plating , is offered at 95 euros.
Bracciale con perla di conchiglia
Bracelet with shell pearl

Anelli e collane della collezione Whiteside
Rings and necklaces from the Whiteside collection
Orecchini e collana della collezione Whiteside
Earrings and necklace from the Whiteside collection
Collezione Whiteside di Rue des Mille
Whiteside Collection of Rue des Mille

A sapphire drags Bolaffi’s auction

Spring marked by blue for Aste Bolaffi in Turin. The auction sale organized by the company for the end of March culminated in the awarding of a ring with a prestigious 4.61-carat Kashmir blue sapphire, sold for 370,000 euros after a telephone and in-room duel between numerous international collectors. The jewel was purchased by an important New York buyer. The stone, free of signs of heating and inclusions, is characterized by a uniform velvety blue color, the most sought after and appreciated. The jewel comes from the heirs of an important Milanese family together with other precious items. The sale for the Turin maison ended with over 2.4 million euros, a record for the jewelery department.

Orecchini in zaffiri blu e diamanti
Blue sapphire and diamond earrings

The sapphire had no certification of origin, but gemological investigations by the Basel SSEF officially confirmed its provenance: the Kashmir region, north-west of the Himalayan chain, where a small mine rich in sapphires of extraordinary beauty was discovered in the 19th century, then exploited intensely, only for a few years, at the behest of the maharajah and now exhausted.

A memorable auction both in general, for the record of the jewelery department, and for this spectacular sapphire, which is proof of the added value that Aste Bolaffi can offer sellers. Specifically, I am proud to have been able to demonstrate it, thanks to the competence and stubbornness of our specialist, Maria Carla Manenti, who allowed the selling family to see a beautiful sapphire transformed into a stone of exceptional provenance. Once this discovery was ascertained, certified by the supreme authority on the subject consulted by us, the other added value was given by our international network which brought the most important buyers from all over the world to battle at the auction, thus allowing the sensational result.
Filippo Bolaffi, CEO of Aste Bolaffi

Girocollo composto da cinque fili di perle naturali di acqua salata
Choker composed of five strands of natural saltwater pearls

Among the other jewels that achieved the best prices were a pair of earrings in blue sapphires and diamonds, which went up to 167,000 euros, a rare necklace made up of five strands of natural saltwater pearls, purchased for 143,000 euros, more than three times the starting price, a platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond, sold for 50,000 euros, a carnelian cameo engraved by Benedetto Pistrucci, purchased for 45,000 euros (lot 203), a pair of agate and enamel bookends signed by Alfredo Ravasco, one of the leading Italian goldsmiths of the 1920s and 1930s, depicting tropical fish, sought for up to 25,000 euros.

Anello in platino con diamante taglio rettangolare a gradini di 5 carati
Platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond

 

The gears of Ludovica Andrina

The tiny gears of Ludovica Andrina make new, but also traditional, jewelery ♦ ︎

Turin, the capital of Piedmont, Italy, is famous for cars and chocolate. But also for craftsmanship and, in particular, for the noble goldsmith’s art. It is no coincidence that a few kilometers away is the pole of Italian high jewelery, Valenza, for which grandfather of Ludovica Andrina works. Introduction that serves to explain why Ludovica Andrina is perfectly at ease in Turin, where she was able to create the brand that has her name and an activity able to offer satisfaction.

Orecchini Amore, argento placcato oro
Love earrings, gold plated silver

Unlike those who deny tradition and are inspired by models from other countries, Ludovica Andrina looks for inspiration in the past for the future. In short, her jewels are the result of an evolution, not a break. Although new ideas are not lacking, such as when she using microscopic gears of wristwatches to make rings or bracelets: a fun but also aesthetically pleasing idea. And the demonstration that she can remain faithful to tradition, also innovating a lot. As in the case of the new collections, with silver rose gold plated, silver and small natural stones.
Anello multibanda in argento, oro 9 carati, con pavé di diamanti
Multiband ring in silver, 9 carat gold, with pavé diamonds

Orecchini in argento placcato oro con figure tratte da monete dell'antica Roma
Gold-plated silver earrings with figures taken from ancient Roman coins
Anello in argento placcato oro con diamanti grigi
Gold plated silver ring with gray diamonds
Collana in argento placcato oro
Gold plated silver necklace
Collana di perle barocche con chiusura in argento placcato oro
Baroque pearl necklace with gold-plated silver clasp
Anello Marine in argento placcato oro
Marine ring in gold-plated silver

The dates of Milano Fashion&Jewels September

The September 2024 edition of Milano Fashion&Jewels will still take place at the Rho Fair from Saturday 14th to Tuesday 17th. On Saturday, visitor entry will be by invitation only. Furthermore, the days from 15th to 17th (Sunday-Tuesday) will coincide with Micam Milano, International Footwear Exhibition, Mipel International Leather Goods and Fashion Accessories Exhibition.

Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In three days, in addition to the opening on Saturday dedicated to exclusive entry with invitation from the exhibitors, it will thus be possible to better concentrate all the activities and special events of the event, offering visitors, buyers and journalists present, a very aimed at knowing and appreciating the potential of Milano Fashion&Jewels. With a view to optimizing visiting opportunities, a partial overlap is also expected in September (Tuesday 17th) with Lineapelle, the international exhibition of leather, accessories, components and fabrics, scheduled for 17th to 20th February 2024.
Esposizione di gioielli a Homi Fashion&Jewels
Homi Fashion&Jewels

The history of Tiffany & Co on window

It is not true that to be liked you need to be young and, perhaps, lie about your age. Tiffany, for example, is keen to underline its date of birth: 1837. A year that also occurs in its new advertising campaign: With Love, Since 1837. In short, for almost two centuries the American brand, now French-owned , with his jewels he witnesses weddings, engagements and declarations of love. And, always sinking inspiration back to its historical roots, the images that accompany the communication allude to the creativity of Gene Moore, an American designer and window dresser who joined Tiffany in 1955 as artistic director and later became vice president. In fact, the showcase is the first business card of a jewelry store.

Bracciale Knot
Knot bracelet

The Maison’s most important jewelery collections, such as Lock, T, Knot, HardWear, Sixteen Stone and Tiffany Setting, were visualized by the photographer and director Dan Tobin Smith, who recalled in photos and videos a series of shop windows created by Gene Moore, between theatrical wings and allusions to the surrealist artistic trend. The campaign speaks to the heritage of the House, the origin of each collection and pieces such as the Lock bracelet, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Sixteen Stone ring, HardWear jewels and other creations.

Bracciale Knot
Bracelet from the Knot collection

Dan Tobin Smith worked with production designer Rachel Thomas, including miniature or large-scale models that flow together seamlessly through shifts in perspective. The campaign is a collaboration between Tiffany’s internal creative team and creative agency Tbwa\Chiat\Day LA.

T bracelet
Bracelet from the T collection
Setting ring Hero
Tiffany Setting ring

Noah’s Ark of Amen for very young people

Bijoux for very young people, with a touch of fantasy and a cartoon style. Amen has presented a new line dedicated to pre-teenagers, ten years after the first proposal of jewelery dedicated to the little ones. The new junior line is inspired by Noah’s Ark and features a collection of colorful animals, ideally the guests of the biblical ship.

Bracciale in argento e smalto
Bracelet in silver and enamel

The Noah’s Ark collection includes 12 sets, complete with necklace, bracelet and earrings in 925 silver, with colored enamelled pendants, inspired by animals such as the lion, the bee, the butterfly, the zebra. The style is cartoonish, suitable for younger girls, although it may also appeal to those who are a few years older. The prices are within the reach of the piggy bank: from 19.90 euros up to a maximum of 34.90 euros for necklaces. Each animal subject of the collection is available in necklace, bracelet and earrings.
Collana ape
Bee necklace

Orecchini farfalla
Butterfly earrings
Bracciale coccodrillo
Crocodile bracelet
Orecchini delfino e stella
Dolphin and star earrings
Collana coccinella
Ladybug necklace

How to choose the jewelry box

How to choose the right jewelry box for you? If you have not yet purchased a jewelery box, a container designed specifically for rings, necklaces, bracelets and earrings, read what are the aspects to pay attention to. Because a jewelry box not only allows you to better keep the jewels, but it is also an aid for their choice when it is time to wear them. Here, then, how to choose the most suitable jewelry box for you.

Porta gioielli in legno di Seya
Seya wooden jewelry holder

The material. Most jewelry boxes are made of plastic or other synthetic material. However, they are not necessarily the most suitable for you. For sure they are the ones that cost less, but also consider choosing a wooden jewelry box. They are harder to find and even more expensive, but they have some advantages. The first is to be aesthetically pleasing. After all, a jewelry box will almost always be placed on a piece of furniture and, therefore, clearly visible in the house. In addition, wood can be especially useful in slightly humid environments, because it absorbs and keeps the jewels drier. On the other hand, consider that plastic jewelry boxes are probably more comfortable, because they contain compartments and moving parts that can better adapt to the type and quantity of jewelry you have to store. There are also jewelry boxes covered in leather, a real luxury.

Porta gioielli di E-manis
Jewelry holder by E-Manis

The interior. The simplest jewelry boxes are basically small parallelepipeds that contain drawers and compartments in which to put the jewels. Ok, but not all jewels are the same. For example, for rings there are drawers with slots in which to put the jewel. The bracelets, on the other hand, need more space, like necklaces. The earrings should not touch too much to prevent them from getting tangled or scratched. So, before choosing a jewelry box, take note of how it is structured inside and see if it is suitable for the number and type of jewelry you own (and for those that still have to give you).

Jewelbox
Travel jewelbox

The coating. The inside of the drawers of a jewelry box is usually covered with a fabric. Caution: The lining should be soft, yet strong enough not to cause lint or fray. However, nothing prevents you from storing your jewels in the small bags used in jewelry.

Portagioie di Forrica
Forrica jewelry box

Style. There are a myriad of jewelery boxes on the market. It is up to you to choose the one that best suits not only the jewelry you own, but also the furnishings of your home. Jewelery boxes with many drawers, which develop vertically must not cover mirrors, paintings, framed photographs or anything else. Those that look more like a briefcase and are not very tall, on the other hand, will have to have the right place to be placed without taking up too much space on the furniture.

Portagioie di Songmics con serratura
Songmics lockable jewelry box

Safety. Let’s face it: a jewelry box is the most comfortable object in this world but, of course, it will also be the first thing a thief will take with him or empty if he visits your home. On the other hand, even keeping the jewels in a drawer or in the back of the wardrobe will only postpone the theft for a few minutes. How then? One option is to buy a travel jewelry box: in this case you can take it with you on vacation (but beware of thefts in the hotel). But the only real solution is to equip the entire house with a powerful anti-theft system. And if you have a particularly precious piece of jewelry, put it in a safe (if it is sturdy enough) or in a bank safe. If, then, you live with other people who are not your partner, consider choosing a jewelry box with a lock. Just in case.

La cassaforte per gioielli Baron
The Baron jewelry safe

A film for Serafino Consoli

The Serafino Consoli brand presents a video, The Shape of Life, which in addition to being a vehicle for communicating jewellery, aims to become a manifesto of the values and history of the brand. Set between Monte Rosa and the Circolo Filologico of Milan, the cultural center of the city, the video is performed by the German dancer and choreographer Anne Jung, with elements of dance and sport: she competed in the 1996 Atlanta Olympics.

The video is presented as testimony to the stylistic path undertaken by Serafino Consoli, a brand born in 1959 in a small jewelery shop in Northern Italy, in the province of Bergamo, which still bears the name of its founder today. The Brevetto and Serafino collections combine tradition and innovation: the technology introduced by the brand makes the jewelery extremely flexible, able to adapt to any size. In the Serafino collection, for example, the rings can be transformed into bracelets, with two ways of wearing the same jewel.

Serafino Consoli, bracciali e anelli
Serafino Consoli, bracelets and rings

With The Shape of Life we wanted to create a new and innovative communication product. For its production we identified young professionals who brought their creativity and fresh ideas to overcome the concept of the classic commercial. Together we thought of this project, then shot and edited into a real film-manifesto which, in a few minutes and without unnecessary frills, speaks, interprets and transmits the concepts of nature, human relationships, changes. Because the shape of life is changeable like our rings, which last forever, adapting to the passing of time. For us The Shape of Life is not a simple and classic marketing initiative, it is a project that aims to accompany us and represent us as a company and people, because it investigates and compares the sensitivity and beauty that is in each of us.
Ivan Consoli, CEO of Serafino Consoli

The film is produced by the independent creative&production company Jumpp, written and directed by Nicola Martini, under the executive creative direction of Giovanni Verdicchio. The photographic direction is by Luca Costantini, the music is by Daniele De Virgilio.

La locandina di The Shape of Life
The Shape of Life poster

Vhernier lightness with Ardis

Ardis, in Esperanto, means “shining era”. For those who don’t know, Esperanto is a language invented between 1872 and 1887 by Ludwik Lejzer Zamenhof, with the aim of creating a common language for all the peoples of the world. The idea was nice, but evidently something went wrong. On the other hand, the concept of design has become universal, an aesthetic aspect that adds value to any object. As in the case of Vhernier jewels, a Maison that has always focused on refined design. The Valenza brand now presents Ardis, a name that perhaps alludes to Esperanto, but in any case it is a collection that combines the usual attention to volumes with the search for innovation in materials.

Anello in alluminio, oro bianco, diamanti
Ring in aluminium, white gold, diamonds

For this line of jewels, Vhernier has chosen to use opaque and compact aluminium, with pearly reflections, soft to the touch and obviously very light. The metal is shaped by hand in the Vhernier laboratories. The aluminum of the jewels is crossed by bands of rose gold, or white gold set with pavé diamonds. The collection is made up of rings, earrings and rigid but flexible bracelets, in two versions, with bands in pink or white gold with diamonds.
Bracciale in alluminio, oro bianco, diamanti
Bracelet in aluminium, white gold, diamonds

Bracciale in alluminio, oro rosa
Aluminum bracelet, rose gold
Orecchini Ardis in alluminio, oro bianco, diamanti
Ardis earrings in aluminium, white gold, diamonds
Orecchini in alluminio, oro rosa
Aluminum earrings, rose gold

A book and a league for Atelier VM

Atelier VM, a Milanese brand that has decided to celebrate the anniversary with a project and a book published by Corraini Edizioni, turns a quarter of a century. Atelier VM, founded by designers Marta Caffarilli and Viola Naj-Oleari, also organized a retrospective curated by Milovan Farronato, in Via Cesare Correnti 14 in Milan. The book is halfway between diary, album of memories and reflection: it retraces the history of VM from its beginnings, with the two very young friends, today at the helm of a predominantly female company made in Milan. The volume contains drawings, photos and a conversation with the two founders, including personal memories and anecdotes. Atelier VM underlines the ability to innovate the classic canons of jewelery by enhancing the emotional aspect linked to the object.

Uno schizzo preparatorio pubblicato nel libro Due nomadi gold
A preparatory sketch published in the book «Due nomadi gold»

The book contains texts by Domitilla Dardi, Milovan Farronato and Alessandra Pomarico, Marta Cappellolli and Viola Naj-Oleari in conversation with Alessandra Pomarico. Furthermore, ten years after launching L’Essenziale, the idea of “jewels soldered to the body”, Atelier VM is now launching the new alloy called 3Kt, composed of gold, copper and silver.
Foto: Archivio Goldschmied & Chiari
Image: Goldschmied & Chiari Archive

Bracciali Cosmo indossati
Worn Cosmo bracelets by Atelier Vm