Lark & Berry points out that it was the first jewelry brand to offer only lab-created diamonds. And, of course, he hasn’t changed his mind over the years. Now that artificial stones are even offered by those who mine natural diamonds in the earth (we are talking about you, De Beers), the London company founded by Laura Chavez can boast of being ahead of its time. Lark & Berry also points out that the way in which diamonds and stones are produced in the laboratory is a little more sustainable, less harmful to the environment and 100% guaranteed without connection with conflict zones.
The brand has a flagship store in Marylebone, London, but its jewelry is also sold in New York, Los Angeles and Hong Kong, as well as online. And it has a double mission: to sell, but also to disseminate the world of synthetic diamonds. The proposed jewels are original, but without exaggerating. As in the case of the Wave collection, in 14-karat gold and laboratory diamonds, which uses a design that recalls the movement of water in the sea.
The colors of Gioielliamo
Gioielliamo is the name of a small but lively company that produces jewelry near Arezzo, one of the traditional areas of Italian goldsmith production. Founded by Massimo Scortecci, the company aims to reach a young audience who want to wear bright, but not bizarre, jewelry. It is not a haute couture production, of course, but simple but interesting rings, bracelets and necklaces. One of the new Gioielliamo collections is called Emma and is made of rose gold and diamonds.
But other collections use semi-precious stones, such as Caramelle, made of pink gold, small brilliants, and a series of natural quartz, or amethysts, which are mounted in cabochons, but with an oval cut reminiscent of candies, with the beveled edges. The colors of the stones are purple, green, pink. The diamonds follow the outline of the stone forming a small crown. But in some cases they also form a pavé which replaces the main stone. For the earrings, there are also pairs with the colors of the stones different from each other. The Geometrie collection, on the other hand, uses faceted quartz surrounded by a pavé of sapphires.
Rosa Van Parys between architecture and jewelry
Often jewelers are inspired by architecture, especially for art deco jewels. But it is quite rare for a jeweler to also carry out the profession of architect. And this is precisely the story of Rosa Van Parys, who reached the final in the Best in Pearls category at the Couture Design Awards. Yet jewelry was not a casual choice nor a forced one. The Rosa Van Parys architecture and design studio was successful when she decided to launch her Maison in 2017 and her first high jewelery collection.
The Ecuador-born designer studied in Europe, graduated in architecture and in the United States from the Harvard Graduate School of Design and now lives and works in Westlake Village, a suburb north of Los Angeles. It goes without saying that her jewels retain an inspiration linked to geometry and architectural design. The focus, in fact, is on composition, balance, shape, symmetry and color. Pearls are a key element for the designer, who has also launched pieces of a line of men’s jewelry, which also includes elaborate dagger-shaped pendants. Also because, even though she designs jewelry, Rosa Van Parys has not abandoned the activity related to architecture: she, together with her husband, directs a ten-person studio.
Maggi Simpkins creative by nature
Her ring was the top lot at Brilliant & Black, the Sotheby’s auction dedicated exclusively to black designers, although in truth Maggi Simpkins has physical traits that could make her mistake for a Mediterranean woman. But that’s not her distinctive trait. The Portland, Oregon-born designer has followed a different path than most of her colleagues in the jewelry world. In fact, she has no traditional training in fine arts or jewelry. In short, no classic diploma from the Gia, but a lot of inspiration. Also thanks to the atmosphere breathed in the family, with creative parents by profession.
In short, Maggi Simpkins has refined her creative process over time for her jewels, but which the designer also transfers to clothing or interior design. She lives and creates her jewelry, made to order, one-of-a-kind pieces, from her studio in Los Angeles. Although she didn’t go to design school, when she was 20 and had just dropped out of college, she designed a fashion jewelry line for a private label. The designs were purchased from BCBG and Nordstrom. Experiences in the world of jewelry that have continued with other collaborations for companies in the sector. Until she started getting enough inquiries from private individuals and in 2015 she started her own business.
She mainly creates unconventional rings with large stones surrounded by other colored gems, with an original style. Naturally, you choose materials according to the ethical and sustainable principle. One of the latest creations is a pair of Bose Ultra Open Earbuds customized with 14k gold and diamonds for emerging artist Kenzie Ziegler.
The secret of Asscher house
The diamond jewels of the Asscher dynasty, which gaves its name to one of the most famous types of cut of the most precious stones ♦
Many know Asscher because it is also the name of a particular cut of diamonds. But the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, a Dutch company founded in 1854 by the Asscher family, also produces jewelery, which obviously make extensive use of diamonds. Do you think that the headquarters of the company is still the original one, in Tolstraat street, in Amsterdam. In the jewels there are the elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, which gave life to the Art Nouveau style, and then evolved into the Art Deco. Really regal pieces of jewelry. On the other hand, it is named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was conferred the honor of royal supplier by Queen Juliana. And in 2011 Queen Beatrice perpetuated the prefix “Royal” for another 25 years.
Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. It became famous in the early 20th century for the work of Joseph and Abraham Asscher, and became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was awarded the Royal Dutch Predicate by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company’s importance in the Netherlands and worldwide.
The Asscher cut was born in 1902, invented by Joseph Asscher, who patented this special shape for the diamond. It was also the world’s first patented diamond cut. The original design featured 58 stepped facets and a steep pavilion with cut corners. Basically, it is an emerald cut diamond, but square and with cut corners. The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewelry, with its straight lines and faceted arrangement making it perfect for clean, graphic elements brought to life by movement.
The history of the company is linked to some extraordinary diamonds: the Excelsior of 997 carats, one of the largest diamonds found. In 1903 Abraham Asscher divided the stone into ten diamonds to minimize defects (some inclusions). The diamond Excelsior is finished (but it is unknown if it is a merit) to be worn as a pendant from the bra, during the 2003 Victoria Secret Fantasy Bra show, worn by Heidi Klum. A complete intimate of about 13 million dollars. Another historical diamond is the Cullinan, discovered in 1905, of 3,106 carats (621.2 g). The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, who invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss how to cut the stone. Joseph Asscher divided the Cullinan into three parts. Then there are nine large stones: the largest is 530.20 carats (106.040 g), the Cullinan I. It is part of the jewels of the British crown.
[caption id="attachment_85020" align="aligncenter" width="709"] Engagement rings from the Maison AsscherA curiosity: during the months of the coronavirus epidemic, Mike and Lita Asscher decided they wanted to help fight covid-19 by creating a mask that printed the image of Asscher diamonds. The mask is made of non-medical fabric and is sold online: the profits were destined for scientists at the LUMC (Leiden University Medical Center).
Pasquale Bruni on the moon with Petit Joli
Love on the moon with Pasquale Bruni. For spring 2024 the Petit Joli collection presents four new combinations of gems and moonstones. This is an evolution of one of the historic collections of the Valenza Maison, which adds the new stylistic touch of Eugenia Bruni. Petit Joli with the moonstone also combines from a creative point of view with other gems: onyx, green agate, mother of pearl and pink chalcedony. The underlying idea is to connect soul and nature, given that each stone is attributed a meaning or symbolic magical power. Regardless of opinions, in any case, what matters is the aesthetic aspect of the jewels, which retain the traditional flower shape, symbol of the Maison.
The collection is made of 18k rose gold with white and champagne diamonds. The jewels already present in the collection are updated: the earring becomes a pendant, the ring is embellished with diamonds in the stem as well as the necklace, and the new choker and bangle are added, also enriched with diamond details.
New Couture jewels for Annamaria Cammilli
Annamaria Cammilli has long since also introduced a series of high-end jewels, which complement the jewelery lines that have made the Tuscan brand famous, such as Dune. In 2024, the high-end Couture line will be enriched with new creations with the characteristic sinuous shapes that characterize the Florence Maison. The jewels, in gold in the typical exclusive shades with a matte finish, follow the stylistic canons of the brand, with rounded and enveloping shapes, in which stones such as fancy diamonds or tourmalines are set. The dimensions of the rings are generous without being excessive.
Another example of high-end jewelery by Annamaria Cammilli is the new Cocoon collection, which uses an overlapping of gold surfaces that add an unexpected three-dimensionality to the jewels. At the center of the jewels, made with some of the eight shades of gold used by the Maison, are stones such as tanzanites or tourmalines in bright colors.
Also high-end is the Premiere collection, with its shapes inspired by the marine world. The collection uses precious stones such as emeralds, sapphires, fancy and brown pear-cut diamonds. The line now also features a gold necklace with thin diamond edges surrounding 18 pear-cut emeralds. Last year the brand presented a necklace with the same design, but with sapphires.
The precious leaves of Michael Aram
Handcrafted worked metal and colored stones in jewelery by Michael Aram ♦ ︎
In Hindi, the word aram means “sweetness, peace, love, and care.” If this is Michael Aram’s mood, it is uncertain. In any case, he emphasizes this semantic affinity. Michael Aram is an American designer and artist, born in New York, where he works. At the end of the 1980s he traveled to India and this trip changed his life: he discovered the tradition of metalworking and created a home and laboratory in New Delhi. From there, the business continued and Aram founded a company that produces home design items. Furniture, design, but craftsmanship. But it also offers jewelry.
The passion for ancient traditions has been linked to an entrepreneurial spirit that has transformed it into a signature in its field. But after a few years, Michael Aram has expanded his business to jewelry as well. Of course with collections that have hand-crafted metal their fulcrum. Not only that: Micheal Aram’s jewels, which also appeared at Couture 2017 in Las Vegas, make a large use of precious stones and precious stones, as in the Botanical Leaf collection. This is something that the Indian likes too much.
The gems of Pamela Huizenga
The dance of the stones drives Pamela Huizenga fantasy: unique pieces with gems at the center of her creativity ♦
At 16, in Florida, Pamela Huizenga had already shown her passion for stones. The minerals were collected, as long as were a bit shining, and brought home. She did not suspect, though, that after a few years would become a well-known and appreciated designer. Actually there is a pause in her history: after studying the cutting of stones and the secrets of an accomplished artisan goldsmith in North Carolina, she was married and had three children.
But the passion for the stones has prevailed. The start of the conversion to jewelry designer was a bit casual, with the purchase of an Ethiopian opal on eBay. It was 2009. From this stone began the path that has turned into a jewelry professional, that only creates unique pieces. His creations are made between Florida, New York and Bali, where work an artisan woman specialized in the processing of silver pieces. Needless to say the center of its jewels include especially stones, especially those who have something special: turquoise, jade, opals of different types (Ethiopian or Mexican), but also fossils and petrified wood are the basic elements upon which you exercise the fantasy of Pamela. The prices of her jewels start at about $ 4,000.
The Essentials of PdPaola
The Spanish brand PdPaola offers the Essentials line for spring 2024. The new items include Chicago hoop earrings in 18k gold-plated silver: they vaguely resemble the shape of a padlock, but are inspired by the architecture of the American city. The Rodeo hoop earrings are also made of gold-plated silver, with a long, interchangeable link. Another earring model is Texas, with a very elongated shape and characterized by a central horizontal bar.
The entire collection uses plated silver, but some pieces add cubic zirconia pavé or freshwater pearls to the metal. The design of the jewelry is very simple, but does not lack personality. Prices vary from around 60 euros up to 159 euros for the Rodeo earrings and 139 euros for the Chicago earrings.
PdPaola is a brand founded in Barcelona in 2015 by brothers Paola and Humbert Sasplugas, as a native digital brand and then expanded throughout the world. It sells online, but also in 2,000 stores in more than 15 international markets, including the United States.
Farnese Gioielli enriches its collections with the launch of new jewels. The Roman Maison is characterized by the use of a patent, registered in 70 countries around the world, the Spine, which allows jewels to be composed thanks to a modular system. In practice, different pavé surfaces can be superimposed on a gold metallic cot. The idea comes from designer Barbara Polli, who together with Alberto Serraino founded Farnese Gioielli in 2012. Now the brand renews one of its flagship lines, Habibi Collection, which is expanded thanks to the introduction of a new pendant with necklace and innovative creations of bar and oval dangling earrings.
The earrings respect the sinuous design and characteristics of the line: Habibi is a word in the Arabic language which literally means “my beloved”. The mobile and interchangeable pavé of precious stones is also used in this collection: the novelty is the use of Yellow Fancy Vivid diamonds, in the highest level of color gradation (vivid). The metal band, however, is in yellow or rose gold. In addition to diamonds, the collection uses pink, yellow or orange sapphires. Another novelty from Farnese Gioielli are the Trinus cufflinks.
During my creative journey and the creation of this new jewel I thought of an elegant, erudite man, attentive to detail and a lover of art, in short, an aristocrat. I decided to pay attention to the geometries and not to interchangeability. The twin has the shape of an equilateral triangle, which symbolizes balance and perfection. It is an original accessory not only in its composition but also in its design, which for the first time allows the Maison to use the invisible setting.
Barbara Polli, creative director and co-founder
The geometric base of the cufflinks is offered in two variants, yellow gold and white gold, with baguette-cut diamonds cut perfectly at the vertices of the triangle. At the center, a hard stone is harmoniously set: lapis lazuli in the yellow gold version and onyx for the white gold version. The letter F, symbol of the Brand, is engraved on the American-style clasp, made with the same hard stone.
Romantic sunset with Nanis
The sunset has been painted, described, sung, photographed, filmed: it is the most romantic moment of the day thanks to its vivid colours. The moment before the evening, with all the symbolism it inspires, is also the subject chosen by Nanis for the new Sunset collection. It was inevitable that, this time, the Venetian brand led by Laura Bicego would choose pink gold, in harmony with the colors of the sunset. A choice that also marks a stylistic innovation in the history of the Maison, which has always favored burin-scratched yellow gold.
What, however, remains unchanged is the use of elongated boules, characteristic of the Nanis style. Another novelty, alongside the shade of gold, is also the use of metal in a shiny version. Furthermore, in some pieces, the gold is accompanied by a pavé of diamonds, which enriches the surface of rings, earrings and gives an extra touch to the long necklace which can be worn in different styles: multi-strand, or sautoir or with a hanging wire, thanks to a closing system that allows modularity.
Laurent Gandini’s twisted jewels
Torsade, collection signed by Laurent Gandini, is one of the typical elements of Baroque architecture. Just think of the columns surrounding the altar inside St. Peter’s Basilica, designed by Bernini in the first half of the seventeenth century. But the twist is an element that is also well suited to jewelry, for example with the use of intertwined gold threads.
And also in the Torsade collection of the Milanese jeweler there are edges in 9 carat rose gold that form an endless spiral and that enclose natural stones of different colors. For example, amethyst, prasiolite, blue London topaz, square or octagonal cut, are surrounded by a twisted gold motif.
There is little information about Laurent Gandini. He apparently studied medieval history at university, but then he chose to be a jewelry designer. He worked for Missoni, but in 1990 he went on his own and launched his range of jewelry made in Milan. It is inspired by popular tradition motifs, such as ex-votos, but also by architectural styles, such as the rose windows of medieval Lombard churches. I expect him not surprising given his youth studies.
The myth of Seaman Schepps
Seaman Schepps is one of the oldest American high-end jewelry brands. His jewels have been worn by actresses, celebrities or simply women with great money and refined taste. The brand was founded in 1904 in Los Angeles by Seaman Schepps, born in New York and the son of Hungarian immigrants. And his name was chosen by her mother (looking at a bank sign) because it sounded good in English, a language she didn’t know.
As in the most classic of American dreams, Schepps transformed from a street vendor in California into a jeweler once he returned to New York, in 1921, in the eclectic neighborhood of the Lower East Side. The jeweler has experienced success, through ups and downs, starting from 6th Avenue. Many of his clients were patrons of the arts and theater and stars of stage and screen. With the stock market crash in 1929, however, Seaman lost everything, including his newly built store. The shock pushed him to rethink his business strategy and develop designs mixing unique ideas, bold colors and sharp textures.
His jewels have found admirers such as President Franklin D. Roosevelt, the Duchess of Windsor and members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockefeller families. For this reason Schepps has been called “America’s court jeweler”. After the founder died in 1972, the Schepps brand continued its activity based on the heritage design concepts of the Maison. Many famous art collectors, such as Andy Warhol, Joan Quinn and Holly Soloman, have become fans of Schepps’ work. Today the flagship store is located on the corner of 69th Street and Madison Avenue in New York City.
The jewels of time by Luca Cantarelli
Without gender and without age, but with many ideas. Luca Cantarelli, a jewelery designer based in Milan, has created a collection made up of five jewels in silver, enamel and natural stones such as peridot, garnet, topaz, peridot, citrine. And, in contrast, the designer decided to combine the images of the jewels with a series of portraits dedicated to adult male beauty from 40 to 70 years old. With a surprising effect from a communication point of view. It is no coincidence that the collection is dedicated to the effects of time.
A collection includes pendants, earrings and chevalier rings. The most representative piece is the Fierce chevalier ring, with strong volumes that project the shape in height and are inspired by a podium, while the enamels design a central band that wraps the design dividing it into two identical, mirrored halves. On the lateral surfaces, the aligned and degradé stones recall the idea of an hourglass, measuring time.
Luca Cantarelli was born and raised in Sardinia, but since 2012 he has lived and worked in Milan. At 18, during his university studies he discovered a passion for design and painting. After a degree in Legal Sciences, he studied fashion design and worked in fashion. With experience in clothing and accessory design, he chose to try his hand at jewellery, contributing to the restyling of a famous Milanese jewelery brand. In early 2020 he began designing his first collection in silver and natural stones.
Chantecler renews Joyful
The Joyful collection reflects one of Chantecler’s characteristics: nostalgia for the past and the aesthetics of the present, with an added touch of Mediterranean elegance. The Maison born on the Island of Capri, which this year celebrates the anniversary of the iconic bell symbol of the Maison (introduced in 1944) has chosen this anniversary to introduce new pieces from its most famous collections. Like Joyful, which was inspired by the haute couture and elegance of the fifties. The new models are dressed in full pavé of diamonds or feature a delicate pavé of pink dégradé sapphires combined with bougainvillea-colored sapphires, i.e. purplish-red. They are earrings in two sizes, medium sized pendants and ring.
The hand-made setting comprises stones of different sizes and of notable carat. The pavé version mixes naturally with the semi-precious stone version, creating unexpected combinations. In addition to the version with sapphires, as mentioned, the collection also presents a version with only white diamonds, which offers a different perspective to the jewels, very refined.
Alviero Martini 1st Class in Via Condotti
After Milan, London and New York, Alviero Martini 1A Classe’s navigator points to Via Condotti, a Roman street and temple of shopping. The affordable accessories and jewelery brand offers a line in steel, IP gold steel and IP rose gold steel made up of necklaces, bracelets and earrings with contrasting mother-of-pearl and metal details. The collection is characterized by a minimal design that enhances details. The main element of the line is a round mother-of-pearl pendant with a metal border, which features the 1C monogram in relief in the centre. Combined with a heart engraved with the 1A Classe logo and a charm with crystals, it creates interesting combinations.
The long necklaces in steel (39 euros) and IP gold steel (49) focus on a mother-of-pearl pendant combined with the heart-shaped detail with the 1A Classe logo on the side. They match the mother-of-pearl button earrings with 1C monogram in the steel version (29) and steel with IP gold treatment (39). The bracelets feature the central elements of the line in different compositions. In the first model the mother-of-pearl button, the heart with the 1A Classe logo and the button with crystals hang from a thin steel chain (39), in the groumette knit proposal the three charms are mounted on a rose gold IP chain (49). All necklaces and bracelets feature a custom adjustable clasp.
The Fartan’s Etruscan Patents
In the goldsmith district of Arezzo, the Fartan Group intends to continue the tradition. Starting from the name: according to what the company emphasizes, Fartan in the ancient Etruscan language means “genius, vital and creative force”. In short, the claim of ancient roots, but at the same time the desire not to be left behind from a technological point of view. The production of jewelry proves this. The company, in fact, boasts numerous patents concerning both specific processing models and the machinery used. The idea is to combine technology with the creativity of Italian design. A story that has been going on for about forty years, with a good result, as evidenced by the collections.
The sole shareholder and director of the company since 2009 is Leonardo Terziani, who has behind him a career as an engineer and project manager in companies in the mechanical sector: a background that testifies to the industrial approach of the brand, which works in particular for third parties. Terziani’s experience has yielded innovation. For exemple, for Multi-light a patented technology for the insertion of elements in the basic chain: the final result is a unique jewel, which presents a “dynamic brightness”. Or Atmosphere, also with a patented technology for the insertion of precious inserts, which «generates remarkable harmony and linearity (with pre-established pitch) and avoids any unsightly overlapping of the elements. Extreme brilliance of the jewel thanks to the direct and reflected brightness ». Or, again, Rondò, which derive from a specific processing «thanks to which it is possible to obtain in the finished product areas with different surface finishes that create captivating plays of light, accentuated by the possible different colors». In short, creativity lies not only in the design or choice of a stone, but also in identifying intelligent construction techniques. Perhaps this is also a legacy of the Etruscans.
Pasquale Bruni with Aleluià Feel the Love
The ancient word of jubilation, Alleluia, still resonates in the Maison Pasquale Bruni. The Aleluià collection (written with a single letter L and with the accent on the final a), presented two years ago, is renewed. Aleluià – Feel the Love does not betray the original design created by the creative director Eugenia Bruni, but evolves it. The shape of the leaf also becomes moon, dune and wave. And, as is the tradition of the Valenza Maison, the design of the jewels takes on not only an aesthetic value, but also a philosophical and spiritual one. Much more concrete, however, is the value of the jewel determined by the material and workmanship.
The high jewelery of the collection develops through a geometric riviera with fluid lines of diamonds. The elements of the jewels are worked and recessed individually to then be assembled in a second phase, in order to respect the shapes and clarity of the overlaps. This system also allows you to break down some jewels into different parts. The collection is available in rose gold with white and champagne diamonds, white gold with white diamonds, and white gold with white diamonds. The bracelet is adjustable.
The combinations of Roule & Co
Playing volumes by Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire: a precious Tetris of jewelery ♦ ︎
Maybe Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire are passionate about Tetris, the game that consists of combining geometric geometric shapes. Perhaps yes, because the jewels of their Roule & Co brand, born in New York in 2010, who for the second consecutive year arrived among the finalists at the Las Vegas Couture Design Award, seem to be assorted by combining the simplest geometric shapes, such as triangles , circles, squares. Only combinations are multiplied and the same volumes of jewels are covered by other small areas, in turn triangles, circles, hexes, and so on.
Like the forms of Tetris must be complementary, so is the work of Christopher and Laurin, husband and wife who founded the jewelery brand. The simplicity of the style is only apparent: in fact jewelry often surprising with the possibility of the enclosed elements, as small precious stones. But jewels also have architectural references, as in the Wired collection inspired by the hyperbole of engineering used by archistar and past characters, such as Buckminster Fuller, Gustave Eiffel and Antoni Gaudí.