Burato is a historic jewelry brand located in the Venice area, but it is also one of the few in the sector to present a collection with a pinch of originality. On Facebook, in fact, we read: “Galileo Galilei was in the city of Venice when he presented to the lagoon government the invention that would revolutionize the world of astronomy forever: the telescope. More than 400 years after that day, the mysterious charm of the celestial vault still does not stop us dreaming looking up “.
Here’s how to intelligently present a small collection in 18-karat rose gold, with the addition of small white and black diamonds. Rings, earrings, bracelets have a classic design, which falls within the tried and tested canons of jewelry, which is always appreciated by the female public. On the other hand, it is also Burato’s style, as evidenced by the other collections of the Maison: modern geometries, but without exceeding falling into the abstruseness of certain collections that pursue originality at all costs.
Sicis Jewels on Saturn
Saturn is the sixth planet in the solar system from the Sun and the second most massive planet, after Jupiter. But it is also the most mysterious star, with its rings and 146 satellites. For this reason it also played a role in culture, mythology and some religious beliefs. It is not surprising, therefore, that Saturn is also a source of inspiration for jewelry. As in the case of the Saturno collection by Sicis, spotted at Haute Jewels Geneva. Creative director Gioia Placuzzi designed the ring, earrings and necklace with the maison’s typical technique: micro mosaic.
The tiny tiles make up the starry sky, set on the yellow gold base, enlivened with diamonds and large golden South Sea pearls. The collection adds to the now vast repertoire of the maison. Other novelties, for example, have been added to the Giardino collection, where the micro mosaic composes small flowers in pink shades, combined with a drop-cut tanzanite and sapphires.
In this case the collection also features modular rings: the two elements that make up the jewel can be worn together in a single jewel, divided, or one at a time, separately.
Jewels by Francesca Amritheatrof for Codognato
The challenge is arduous: to move from the new art deco style of Louis Vuitton high jewelery to the Venetian neo-baroque. At the same time. But it is the challenge taken up by Francesca Amritheatrof, artistic director of watches and jewelery for Louis Vuitton and former design director of Tiffany & Co, who also became creative director of Codognato, a historic jewelery shop in the lagoon city, founded in 1866. One year ago, with the passing of Attilio Codognato at 86, his heirs Mario (curator and director of Berggruen Arts & Culture) and Cristina Codognato (who works as a psychotherapist in London) found themselves in need of creative support. Attilio Codognato, the fourth generation of the family, created refined jewels and was appreciated by collectors all over the world for his creations, inspired by the goldsmith tradition of Venice.
The choice of Francesca Amritheatrof is not random. The creative director of Louis Vuitton is a family friend, she knew Attilio Codognato well and, moreover, he studied in London together with her son, Mario Codognato: she studied the theme of design, he studied the art market. Francesca Amritheatrof will continue her work with the Paris giant, but she will also take care of the artisanal production of Codognato, which will maintain the link with the goldsmiths who have always created the jewels of the small Maison, which has just moved to Calle Vallaresso. The collaboration has already borne the first fruits: Francesca Amritheatrof’s first collection for Codognato, entitled Ultima Mano. However, it marks a beginning.
It is not necessary to explain why many Iranian women, those who are able, decide to go abroad. Roshanak Payrovi has chosen two new worlds: Italy and jewelry. And after the master’s degree in Jewelery Design in Arezzo, he deepened the micromosaic technique to the point of making it the characteristic of his creations. In Tuscany the young designer followed the teaching of the art historian Paolo Torriti and found the support of the jeweler-artist Alessio Boschi. You also chose to use the micromosaic technique under the guidance of Maestro Roberto Grieco, a Roman artist with over 30 years of experience.
The micro mosaic technique used in the past and rediscovered today is used to create jewelery inspired by ancient Persia. His first collection draws inspiration from Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (c. 550–330 BC), of which the ruins remain. It is located in the Marvdasht plains, near the southern Zagros Mountains of Iran. It is also one of the major cultural heritages of Iran and the world. Roshanak Payrovi made his debut at Vicenzaoro thanks to The8, a competition dedicated to IED students in Rome and Turin and promoted by Labigem, the Italian Gemology Laboratory.
Two-color Fope Must Have
Fope still focuses on the combination or, if you prefer, on the contrast between different colors, an idea that he had already proposed with the Essentials collection in 2021. Now gold with two different colors is renewed in the Must Have line, where the classic design of the Venetian maison is combined with the mix of gold used for the flexible links of bracelets of different sizes and rings. Thicknesses and locking washers, in which a small white or black diamond is inserted, are Fope’s usual ones, but the extra touch is represented by the contrast of white and pink gold, or yellow with white or pink.
Must Have is, essentially, a selection of creations from the Vicenza brand (which, by the way, increased its turnover to 66.8 million euros in 2023, with profits unchanged at 10 million). The selection includes all the bracelets that use the Flex’it patent (which makes jewelery elastic and flexible) in their most essential version, but with a different effect.
De’ Lazzari Oro Addosso, the story continues with new jewels. ︎
After 40 years, the yellow metal continues to be at the center of De Lazzari Oro Addosso (means worn gold). The brand was founded in 1982 in Casale Monferrato (Alessandria), in the gold district of Valenza, and has never ceased to represent that type of jewelery that manages to combine a high, but not unattainable, level. In short, a quality compromise between fine jewelery and what is really possible to buy. The brand has thus managed to pass unscathed through fashions thanks to its transformation into an accessory that can always be worn, not only on special occasions, and winks at the world of fashion. And, precisely for this reason, experienced as a dress that can be changed lightly.
Gold and large colored stones are used alongside traditional diamonds.
Lina and Vittorio De Lazzari, therefore, continue on their path, with jewels with precise but also soft geometries, ready to be re-proposed in a different way season after season, mostly sold on international markets. Gold, diamonds, but also colored stones are the classic elements reworked according to the Maison’s own style, which brings with it a bit of the Eighties, as evidenced by the latest pieces offered.
The new Art Déco jewels by Roberto Coin
Art Deco is a style of visual arts, architecture and design that first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and flourished in the United States and Europe between the 1920s and early 1930s. But the geometric lines with the alternation of straight and circular lines continue to fascinate even a century later. Art Déco is also the name of one of Roberto Coin’s most successful collections.
The style and jewels of the collections have been enriched over the years following the success of bracelets with or without tassels, the semi-precious stones used, such as lapis lazuli or malachite, black jade, mother-of-pearl, turquoise or carnelian combined with classic diamonds. The new pieces of the Art Déco collection also take up the geometric lines that are repeated in a symmetrical and regular way, combined with the chains made of irregular dots that form the tassels, in yellow or pink gold. The chains that appear in the collection are all assembled by hand, as is the setting of the precious stones that decorate the jewels and how the double snap closure is also constructed, for maximum security. The entire internal twisted wire structure is instead developed through 3D technology, to guarantee the perfection of the symmetries and their solidity.
A Wrist Bouquet from Stenzhorn
Jewels from the Bouquet collection by Stenzhorn are a little different than usual. These are jewels to add to the watch strap to embellish it. The jewels have different shapes and can be combined with each other: in a few seconds they allow you to transform a casual day watch into an elegant timepiece. And a series of colorful straps transforms into a glamorous evening bracelet sparkling with diamonds. Completely transformable and ideal for collecting, Bouquet is a fun option for having fun combining different looks. Bouquet begins with a rainbow selection of leather straps on which to attach the gold ornaments. But it also offers watch cases. The straps are available in dozens of different shades in alligator, lizard, calf or silk leather.
The accessories are in the shape of bows, symbols of kisses, crosses or floral pendants. They are available in white or yellow gold and with optional diamond pavé. They can be easily replaced and are easy to use. The different watch cases in yellow or white gold are available with white or black mother-of-pearl dials. There are also setting options: with a single diamond at 12 o’clock, or a row of diamonds around the dial, or diamonds entirely covering the case and dial.
The colors of Santorini for Mabina
The Milanese brand Mabina Gioielli evokes summer, the beaches, the Aegean Sea, the colors of the Mediterranean and the charm of a volcano. Everything in the Santorini collection, inspired by one of the most famous islands in Greece. But it’s not just the shade of blue that prevails. The Santorini collection uses a palette that also includes the bright colors of flowers such as the red-violet of the bougainvillea or the pink of the peach petals. The collection includes four sets, worn in the images by model Federica Nargi.
Earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces are made with natural or rhodium-plated rose gold silver, with the addition of stones obtained by combining rock crystal and colored glass, with the effect of an opalescent consistency. The jewels are presented in a monochrome version, that is, with all the stones of the same color, or in a mix of different shades.
Mabina also has the excellent idea of adding some tips for jewelery care, which are worth taking up and publishing here:
Water, sunlight or contact with chemical compounds (creams, perfumes, detergents, etc.) can damage or discolor the jewelry. It is advisable to avoid wearing them during exercise. It is physiological that with wear and rubbing between different materials, a slight oxidation can form. To clean, simply immerse them in warm water with a few drops of soap with a natural pH, remove the dirt with a toothbrush and finally dry them with a soft cloth. Mabina recommends treating your jewelery with the same care you reserve for your most expensive things. Rhodium plating Rhodium plating is a treatment done on the surface of the jewel to give it light and brilliance. To maintain this effect for as long as possible we recommend not cleaning it with abrasive cloths or liquids, but simply using soft cloths and water.
The Akillis Puzzle
Life is a puzzle and love relationships increasingly resemble the ability to fit together the different pieces that make up two personalities. The French brand Akillis, however, sees the puzzle as a collection capable of also reminding us that if the pieces fit together, the spiritual communion, as well as the physical one, is perfect. But with a warning: the ability to unite is not necessarily relegated to the life of a couple. It can be simply a bond of friendship, or related to the family, for example, to reiterate the closeness with children, grandchildren, sisters and brothers, cousins, etc.
With these premises, the Puzzle collection is proposed with the classic design of the tiles used for the board game, with elements used for rings, pendants, bracelets with charms, earrings or earrings. There is also a Mini Puzzle collection with smaller sized pieces. The jewels are in white, yellow or rose gold, with or without white or black diamonds, while a bracelet also uses titanium and black diamonds.
Where flies Anapsara
The Anapsara gold and diamond jewelry with mystical background.
You imagine if you enter into a jewelry store and listen to these words: “The larval stage of dragonflies lasts up to five years. It’s time. Are you ready for your transformation?”. If you can hear this sentence, you know that they are offering to you Anapsara jewelry, brand based in Antwerp, born in 2014 between the beaches of Ibiza. Despite its origin, however, Anapsara follows a philosophy that focuses on the aspect of spirituality. Gold and mysticism?
The founder of the brand, Eugenia Shekhtman, says she was inspired to create her own line of luxury jewelry after years of spiritual studies and Vedic practices.
To begin with, the word Anapsara is derived from the Sanskrit word Apsara, which means “she who moves through the water.” The collection’s logo, a dragonfly, was chosen for its beauty and meaning: the change in the perspective of self-fulfillment. And so Eugenia accompanies the presentation of its jewels with phrases like the one we mentioned at the beginning. In any case, also if you aren’t sensitive to the Indian mysticism or you dont love the gracefulness of the dragonfly, the Anapsara jewelry can also play a purely aesthetic function. In short, you can wear this jewels without thinking too much.
Terzihan from the Grand Bazaar to the world
In the Seventies Murat Terzihan moved to Istanbul from Mardin, a small Turkish town on the border with Syria, where the family had been working jewelery for three centuries. In the large Turkish city overlooking the Bosphorus, Terzihan began working on the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world (it was founded in 1455). Several decades have passed and today Terzihan has evolved into a luxury jewelry house with boutiques and showrooms in Istanbul, Lisbon, Florida and retailers on five continents.
The company has not abandoned its artisanal vocation and continues to be led by the Terzihans, with the brothers Can and Cem as general manager and creative director who supported their father. The philosophy of the brand is to enhance the mix of Mesopotamian and Mediterranean roots, between sea and jewels. The style is eclectic, modern, and involves the use of colored stones, together with gold, with kaleidoscopic designs and high-contrast geometric volumes, with some echoes of art deco.
New jewels from Caleida collection by Boccadamo
For spring 2024 Boccadamo presents new sets for the Caleida collection, which is part of the Mediterranean Line of the maison and is one of the most requested of the Italian brand. The new jewels use cubic zirconia which match the three versions with rose, yellow and rhodium gold plating. The jewels are offered with two designs: the most essential includes single pendants, for necklaces and bracelets, or central ones, in the rings, also made in the shape of a crescent with a double drop of zircons. The second version presents a more modern style, thanks to rows of circular modules, with pavé of white zircons, which seem to create jewelery with floral shapes.
The jewels of the Caleida collection are conceived with contrasts between smooth and brilliant surfaces, with a design in line with current trends, combinations of circular elements and double drop modules, which create feminine crescents and harmonious profiles, for an effect of great richness which is reflected on the entire collection.
Spring is the season of flowers, but also of love. It is at this time of year that more weddings are celebrated and most engagements are announced. A special moment which, according to tradition, is accompanied by the gift of a ring, symbol of sentimental commitment. Recarlo is a brand specialized in jewelery dedicated to these unforgettable moments. And for 2024 the Valenza Maison presents Anniversary Maestro, an edition of the solitaire dedicated to the declaration of love and the request for marriage. Anniversary Maestro is the most precious reinterpretation of the classic Anniversary solitaire, made famous by its heart-shaped setting.
For some time now, Recarlo has chosen to enrich a large part of its jewelery with heart-cut diamonds, to underline the dedication of the jewel to the loved one. In this case, however, the setting holds two heart-cut diamonds ready to support the round central diamond. Anniversary Maestro is available in yellow gold in the sunset gold shade, with a slight shade towards pink, and in white gold, defined as arctic gold. Each version is available in three different carats, obviously with different price ranges.
Hearts on Fire’s perfect diamonds
Perfect diamonds and burning hearts. That is the dream of every couple. Like the one formed by Glenn and Susan Rothman, husband and wife, who in 1996 founded Hearts on Fire, a New York company specializing in jewelry with the most loved stone by women. Fast scroll: in 2014 the brand was bought by the largest Chinese jewelery group, Chow Tai Fook, based in Hong Kong. The company then launches several stores in mainland China. But the starting idea, that is to use high quality natural diamonds, transparent and without inclusions, remains the same.
Diamonds that meet these standards are one-tenth of 1% of rough diamonds mined. Not only that: a particular patented Hearts On Fire cut has been designed to let as much light as possible into the stone and increase its reflections. It should also be added that the diamonds are guaranteed 100% compliant with the Kimberley Process (i.e. of controlled origin also from an ethical point of view). In 2012 Hearts On Fire hired Ilaria Lanzoni as the first official director of Design.
How does Hearts On Fire differ from others? The Maison explains that the cutting process of a diamond, which favors the round or square shape, which amplifies the beauty of a diamond, is particularly scrupulous. A precise formula is used for the cut of the diamond, which takes into account the symmetry, proportions and specific shape of each diamond. A process is so rigorous and demanding that it takes four times longer to cut a Hearts On Fire diamond than it takes to cut a diamond in the traditional way.
Annamaria Cammilli with Dune Chic and Pavé
The historic Dune collection by Annamaria Cammilli, which is also the Maison’s main best-seller, is about to celebrate its quarter of a century: next year the line of jewels inspired by the wavy sandy formations of the desert, which have known a success that shows no signs of abating. The soft design of the jewels, combined with the eight varieties of gold color, which are another specialty of the Florentine brand, have however allowed countless variations on the theme.
As in the case of the new Dune Chic and Dune Chic Pavé lines. With necklaces, earrings and pendants that reflect the design of the original collection, and which are enriched with single or pavé diamonds. New geometries of ribbons with an essential appearance expand the range, offering a further possibility of wearing an immediately recognizable jewel (and which has many imitation attempts) by Annamaria Cammilli, who just last year celebrated 40 years of activity.
Vak’s amazing jewels
The new jewels by Vak, the Indian Maison specializing in surprising high jewelery ♦
Vak is the fruit of a family inheritance. Yet, even if it is inspired by the ancient, the tradition, the Maison of Mumbai founded by Vishal Kothari, focuses everything on innovation. A graduate of the Gia in New York, the Indian designer does not limit himself to designing fine jewelry, but emphasizes creativity guided by a technique that is often surprising. Also because he also dreamed of being a fashion designer, or a musician. Instead he has become a great jewelry signature. The diamonds that make up the petals are cut and mounted so that they are flexible, but at the same time firmly on a ring or a pair of earrings. Vak’s jewels are patiently awaited by a host of fans, who contain jewels produced with the dropper. Also because the Maison only creates around 120 unique pieces a year for its high jewelery collection.
On the other hand, it is not easy to make jewelry like the Desert Rain Ring: a cloud of rose-cut diamonds that seems to fall on a brushed gold surface, like rain on sand. It is a shock cocktail ring but, they explain to Vak, it is in fact a desired promise, like rain in the desert. But, alongside pieces sold to collectors, Vak now also offers high-end jewelry, but sold through online platforms such as Moda Operandi. They are always jewels that cost several thousand dollars or euros, but are closer to the general public.
Jewelry like Easter eggs
Easter is a holiday that in the West is also synonymous with eggs. But eggs are not only an ingredient for typical dishes of this period. The oval shape has been used in the history of art as a symbol of rebirth, of motherhood, of a nature that is renewed. And it often occurs also in jewelery, in particular the precious eggs produced by Fabergé are famous. The great Russian jeweler, whose brand has been back to life for a few years (since 2012 he joined the Gemfield group), has produced 50 imperial eggs, created especially for the tsars.
Today they are worth millions, they are often kept in museums and rare private collections around the world. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, opened in 2013, houses the famous first egg which was owned by Empress Feodorovna. Seven imperial eggs, however, are actually still missing. But if Fabergé eggs are famous, and continue to be produced as jewels under the new management, there are also others in jewelery. Some others eggs are very gorgeous, such as the gold brooch signed by Cartier, while other eggs are less refined jewels, but still suitable to be combined on Easter day.
Of course, we don’t necessarily have to stop at a simple jewel. Why not celebrate Easter with an oval cut diamond? Diamonds with this shape, in reality, are not exactly similar to a natural egg, but they are symmetrical. The two longer areas, therefore, are perfectly identical. The same goes for other gems cut with the oval shape. Oval cut diamonds are considered to be some of the most elegant and, when set on a ring, tend to make the fingers appear longer and tapered – something to consider.
Decorating eggshells is an idea that has its roots in humanity. Ostrich eggs decorated and engraved 60,000 years ago have been found in Africa. In the pre-dynastic period of Egypt and the early cultures of Mesopotamia and Crete, eggs were associated with death and rebirth, especially if large in size. Ostrich eggs decorated with gold and silver were placed in the tombs of the ancient Sumerians and Egyptians 5,000 years ago. This tradition may have influenced early Christian and Islamic cultures in those areas, as well as through mercantile, religious and political ties from those areas around the Mediterranean, to being used by jewelry.
The gears of Ludovica Andrina
The tiny gears of Ludovica Andrina make new, but also traditional, jewelery ♦ ︎
Turin, the capital of Piedmont, Italy, is famous for cars and chocolate. But also for craftsmanship and, in particular, for the noble goldsmith’s art. It is no coincidence that a few kilometers away is the pole of Italian high jewelery, Valenza, for which grandfather of Ludovica Andrina works. Introduction that serves to explain why Ludovica Andrina is perfectly at ease in Turin, where she was able to create the brand that has her name and an activity able to offer satisfaction.
Unlike those who deny tradition and are inspired by models from other countries, Ludovica Andrina looks for inspiration in the past for the future. In short, her jewels are the result of an evolution, not a break. Although new ideas are not lacking, such as when she using microscopic gears of wristwatches to make rings or bracelets: a fun but also aesthetically pleasing idea. And the demonstration that she can remain faithful to tradition, also innovating a lot. As in the case of the new collections, with silver rose gold plated, silver and small natural stones.
Giuseppina Fermi maverick
Jewels that are inspired by the Renaissance, with natural stones: it is the style of Giuseppina Fermi.
What can be your fate if your father leaves for China and imports ancient art and jewelry? And what if he then becomes a gemologist and jeweler? The answer, for Giuseppina Fermi, who passed away in 2017, was almost obvious: the world of jewelery is her world. Today carried on by her daughter, Ambra Fermi Pylinski. Pietro, his father, was also one of the pioneers in using fancy diamonds, while his wife founded one of the first jewelery shops. With these premises Giuseppina merged the teachings of her father and mother to create her line which she defines as going against the grain. In the sense that she does not embrace the minimal, geometric and essential philosophy which is the most used by young designers, but remains anchored to a sort of Renaissance-Baroque festival composed of putti, little angels, curls, gilding, symbols.
All together with natural stones, pearls, silver and gold. Although her activity is decentralized compared to those of other Maison: working, in fact, between Piacenza, her city, and Porto Rotondo, a sea town in Sardinia in summer is crowded with tourists famous, rich or both things together. Prices: The range is quite varied. It starts from a hundred euro for a pendant, up to more than 4,000 for a silver ring in rhodium-plated white gold, fluorite, gold, diamonds.