Ardis, in Esperanto, means “shining era”. For those who don’t know, Esperanto is a language invented between 1872 and 1887 by Ludwik Lejzer Zamenhof, with the aim of creating a common language for all the peoples of the world. The idea was nice, but evidently something went wrong. On the other hand, the concept of design has become universal, an aesthetic aspect that adds value to any object. As in the case of Vhernier jewels, a Maison that has always focused on refined design. The Valenza brand now presents Ardis, a name that perhaps alludes to Esperanto, but in any case it is a collection that combines the usual attention to volumes with the search for innovation in materials.
For this line of jewels, Vhernier has chosen to use opaque and compact aluminium, with pearly reflections, soft to the touch and obviously very light. The metal is shaped by hand in the Vhernier laboratories. The aluminum of the jewels is crossed by bands of rose gold, or white gold set with pavé diamonds. The collection is made up of rings, earrings and rigid but flexible bracelets, in two versions, with bands in pink or white gold with diamonds.
Jewels and nature with Daniela Villegas
Daniela Villegas, one of the most imaginative designers, continues her representation of the nature of her native country, Mexico. Among the new features it offers is the Imprints of the Heart collection, dedicated to people or places that leave a mark. It is composed of a series of large evocative pendants that resemble the objects used for stamping, made of gold and semi-precious stones.
Her jewels, conceived and made in Los Angeles, where Daniela Villegas lives and works, are always surprising, like the Papalote earrings, inspired by a type of scorpion. They are crafted in 18k yellow gold, with multicolored gems surrounding kite-shaped amethysts. In fact, the word Papalote means kite in Spanish. They are part of the Chromatic Paradise collection and have been proposed, together with other jewels, in a trunk show on Tiny Gods.
Daniela Villegas has always been a passionate observer of nature. In her jewelry she uses organic elements such as beetles, porcupine quills, feathers, shells, pebbles and wood with 18 karat gold in every color mixed with precious and semiprecious stones. But the designer is also inspired by what surrounds nature, even from a cultural point of view. As evidenced by the series dedicated to the English director and journalist David Attenborough, specialized in documentaries on natural life. The necklace is made of 18k yellow gold, champagne diamonds, emeralds and opal.
Rings and a special necklace for Recarlo
Love is never enough, everyone would like to have more or, in English, more. This is the idea with which Recarlo presented the Anniversary More collection in 2023. A year later, here are new jewels that expand the collection, without distorting the design and spirit of the jewels. The innovations include the introduction of a new open ring in yellow gold, enriched with ten heart-cut diamonds, the Valenza brand’s favorite shape for some years. The jewelry line now includes 25 different rings, which starting from the simple shape of the most classic ring intended for anniversaries or ceremonies, expands with precious variations. Several rings can even be worn on the same finger.
Another novelty are three flexible bracelets, in the white and sunset gold versions (a yellow color tending towards pink), also in this case with natural heart-cut diamonds, in the same style as the rings. Added to these is a new torque necklace, very simple, and also very comfortable: it can be worn simply by widening the space between the two ends. The gold necklace is flexible thanks to a titanium spring hidden inside. The necklace is presented in two variants: one in yellow gold with two heart-cut diamonds and another, the most precious piece, in white gold and 50 heart-cut diamonds.
LeBebè is renewed with Primegioie Proteggimi
LeBebè, the jewelery brand aimed mainly at new mothers and the world of children, renews the Primegioie Proteggimi collection. The collection aims to celebrate the most important moments of the first years of life and to do this leBebè has decided to complete the path undertaken over a year ago, which culminated in spring with the presentation of the new leBebé brand identity. The rebranding operation had the aim of redefining the positioning of the brand which, with the beginning of 2024, will also materialize for Primegioie.
The new logo is inspired by the game of marbles, small glass spheres that have entertained entire generations of children. The movement and circular shape of the marbles are reflected in the design which has an affinity with the leBebé logo. Each letter of the Primegioie logo represents a path through which the marbles can flow and the color of the new logo adds to the coordinated image and the lively and engaging communication materials.
The Proteggimi collection has been renewed with a new interpretation of the Madonnina, which presents a more delineated silhouette that is colored with different glazes. Furthermore, it introduces the shape of the little angel. The jewels are in 9 carat yellow gold for bracelet proposals, with and without customizable tag, and pendant. The Madonnina bracelet without tag has a coral detail, while the one with the shape of the little angel is in turquoise.
The spring of Ribas Jewellery
Jewelery with a romantic design, inspired by the flower season: a classic jewelery tremble, proposed by Ribas Jewellery for spring 2024. Gold and diamonds are the classic ingredients of the recipe, with the addition of precious stones for a touch of colour. The brand, born in Tel Aviv in 2002 on the initiative of Patrik Ribas, carries the certification of the Israel Diamond Exchange, of which it is a member, as a guarantee of quality and competence: the city is one of the world’s diamond capitals. The company also has headquarters in Vilnius (Lithuania), creative offices in Tuscany and a flagship store in Florence.
The jewelry design is traditional, with tennis bracelets in white or yellow gold and eternity rings in yellow gold with diamonds and pink sapphires, to which are also added cross-shaped pendants studded with diamonds. More trendy are the piercings with two models, one in white gold on which there are three small flowers with diamonds and one in yellow gold with a central flower, where the four petals are made up of four 0.17 carat diamonds. The aim is to offer diamond jewelery at a relatively affordable price.
Oscar Heyman, a century of luxury
High jewelry with a long and hard-working history behind it. It is that of Oscar Heyman & Brothers, an American company which has been producing since 1912 high-end jewelry, specializing in particular in pieces with colored gems. But many jewelers in the States call it by another name: The Jewelers’ Jeweler (the jeweler of jewelers), which is the name of a book published by the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. And this is because Oscar Heyman mainly sells through other jewelers.
As mentioned, the history of the Maison is long and has its roots in the distant Ukraine. Oscar, Nathan and Harry Heyman founded the company in 1912 in New York City, but after an apprenticeship in a laboratory in Kharkiv, Ukraine, before emigrating to the United States. They were later joined by their three younger brothers, George, William and Louis, and by their two sisters, Frances and Lena.
This is the story of Oscar Heyman, which is now managed by the second and third generation of the family: Adam C. Heyman (president), Thomas Heyman (vice president and treasurer) and Lewis Heyman (vice president and secretary). Office and manufacturing facilities remained in New York on Madison Avenue. In fact, the Heymans say they are very fond of the city. In addition to selling jewelry with its own brand, the company also works on behalf of third parties. For example, up until the time the Richemont Group acquired a majority stake, Oscar Heyman produced invisible jewelry made in New York for Van Cleef & Arpels from 1939 to 2001, but he also worked for Tiffany and, in the past, also for Cartier.
The surprising jewels of Studio Renn
There is no country more fond of its traditions than India. And there is no country so surprising in the innovation of India (except the US). One of the surprises, as far as jewelry is concerned, is called Studio Renn. The name already portends a different path from that of traditional jewelers. And it is not surprising that Studio Renn won the Couture Design Award in the Best Innovative category in 2021.
Studio Renn is based in Mumbai and was founded in 2018 by Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri. They are two jewelers who love contemporary art, of which they are collectors. And this passion is reflected in the unique pieces they make. Renn, a word meaning rebirth, is the guiding star of the creative process. So: restart, innovation, breaking of habits and no perfection. Yes, instead to unusual materials and innovative shapes. In short, a process similar to that of the artistic composition of a work of art. Reflections, volumes and voids take precedence over tangible materials, is the philosophy of the two designers.
A collection called (An) otherness, for example, was conceived in collaboration with the artist Prashant Salvi. And there is also a concrete ring made in collaboration with Material Immaterial Studio, which creates functional objects in concrete and precious stones. Or earrings set with diamonds that show the hidden side, usually the back of the stones. Nothing is impossible and nothing is impracticable for Studio Renn.
The waves of Lark & Berry
Lark & Berry points out that it was the first jewelry brand to offer only lab-created diamonds. And, of course, he hasn’t changed his mind over the years. Now that artificial stones are even offered by those who mine natural diamonds in the earth (we are talking about you, De Beers), the London company founded by Laura Chavez can boast of being ahead of its time. Lark & Berry also points out that the way in which diamonds and stones are produced in the laboratory is a little more sustainable, less harmful to the environment and 100% guaranteed without connection with conflict zones.
The brand has a flagship store in Marylebone, London, but its jewelry is also sold in New York, Los Angeles and Hong Kong, as well as online. And it has a double mission: to sell, but also to disseminate the world of synthetic diamonds. The proposed jewels are original, but without exaggerating. As in the case of the Wave collection, in 14-karat gold and laboratory diamonds, which uses a design that recalls the movement of water in the sea.
The colors of Gioielliamo
Gioielliamo is the name of a small but lively company that produces jewelry near Arezzo, one of the traditional areas of Italian goldsmith production. Founded by Massimo Scortecci, the company aims to reach a young audience who want to wear bright, but not bizarre, jewelry. It is not a haute couture production, of course, but simple but interesting rings, bracelets and necklaces. One of the new Gioielliamo collections is called Emma and is made of rose gold and diamonds.
But other collections use semi-precious stones, such as Caramelle, made of pink gold, small brilliants, and a series of natural quartz, or amethysts, which are mounted in cabochons, but with an oval cut reminiscent of candies, with the beveled edges. The colors of the stones are purple, green, pink. The diamonds follow the outline of the stone forming a small crown. But in some cases they also form a pavé which replaces the main stone. For the earrings, there are also pairs with the colors of the stones different from each other. The Geometrie collection, on the other hand, uses faceted quartz surrounded by a pavé of sapphires.
Rosa Van Parys between architecture and jewelry
Often jewelers are inspired by architecture, especially for art deco jewels. But it is quite rare for a jeweler to also carry out the profession of architect. And this is precisely the story of Rosa Van Parys, who reached the final in the Best in Pearls category at the Couture Design Awards. Yet jewelry was not a casual choice nor a forced one. The Rosa Van Parys architecture and design studio was successful when she decided to launch her Maison in 2017 and her first high jewelery collection.
The Ecuador-born designer studied in Europe, graduated in architecture and in the United States from the Harvard Graduate School of Design and now lives and works in Westlake Village, a suburb north of Los Angeles. It goes without saying that her jewels retain an inspiration linked to geometry and architectural design. The focus, in fact, is on composition, balance, shape, symmetry and color. Pearls are a key element for the designer, who has also launched pieces of a line of men’s jewelry, which also includes elaborate dagger-shaped pendants. Also because, even though she designs jewelry, Rosa Van Parys has not abandoned the activity related to architecture: she, together with her husband, directs a ten-person studio.
Maggi Simpkins creative by nature
Her ring was the top lot at Brilliant & Black, the Sotheby’s auction dedicated exclusively to black designers, although in truth Maggi Simpkins has physical traits that could make her mistake for a Mediterranean woman. But that’s not her distinctive trait. The Portland, Oregon-born designer has followed a different path than most of her colleagues in the jewelry world. In fact, she has no traditional training in fine arts or jewelry. In short, no classic diploma from the Gia, but a lot of inspiration. Also thanks to the atmosphere breathed in the family, with creative parents by profession.
In short, Maggi Simpkins has refined her creative process over time for her jewels, but which the designer also transfers to clothing or interior design. She lives and creates her jewelry, made to order, one-of-a-kind pieces, from her studio in Los Angeles. Although she didn’t go to design school, when she was 20 and had just dropped out of college, she designed a fashion jewelry line for a private label. The designs were purchased from BCBG and Nordstrom. Experiences in the world of jewelry that have continued with other collaborations for companies in the sector. Until she started getting enough inquiries from private individuals and in 2015 she started her own business.
She mainly creates unconventional rings with large stones surrounded by other colored gems, with an original style. Naturally, you choose materials according to the ethical and sustainable principle. One of the latest creations is a pair of Bose Ultra Open Earbuds customized with 14k gold and diamonds for emerging artist Kenzie Ziegler.
The secret of Asscher house
The diamond jewels of the Asscher dynasty, which gaves its name to one of the most famous types of cut of the most precious stones ♦
Many know Asscher because it is also the name of a particular cut of diamonds. But the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, a Dutch company founded in 1854 by the Asscher family, also produces jewelery, which obviously make extensive use of diamonds. Do you think that the headquarters of the company is still the original one, in Tolstraat street, in Amsterdam. In the jewels there are the elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, which gave life to the Art Nouveau style, and then evolved into the Art Deco. Really regal pieces of jewelry. On the other hand, it is named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was conferred the honor of royal supplier by Queen Juliana. And in 2011 Queen Beatrice perpetuated the prefix “Royal” for another 25 years.
Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. It became famous in the early 20th century for the work of Joseph and Abraham Asscher, and became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was awarded the Royal Dutch Predicate by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company’s importance in the Netherlands and worldwide.
The Asscher cut was born in 1902, invented by Joseph Asscher, who patented this special shape for the diamond. It was also the world’s first patented diamond cut. The original design featured 58 stepped facets and a steep pavilion with cut corners. Basically, it is an emerald cut diamond, but square and with cut corners. The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewelry, with its straight lines and faceted arrangement making it perfect for clean, graphic elements brought to life by movement.
The history of the company is linked to some extraordinary diamonds: the Excelsior of 997 carats, one of the largest diamonds found. In 1903 Abraham Asscher divided the stone into ten diamonds to minimize defects (some inclusions). The diamond Excelsior is finished (but it is unknown if it is a merit) to be worn as a pendant from the bra, during the 2003 Victoria Secret Fantasy Bra show, worn by Heidi Klum. A complete intimate of about 13 million dollars. Another historical diamond is the Cullinan, discovered in 1905, of 3,106 carats (621.2 g). The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, who invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss how to cut the stone. Joseph Asscher divided the Cullinan into three parts. Then there are nine large stones: the largest is 530.20 carats (106.040 g), the Cullinan I. It is part of the jewels of the British crown.
[caption id="attachment_85020" align="aligncenter" width="709"] Engagement rings from the Maison AsscherA curiosity: during the months of the coronavirus epidemic, Mike and Lita Asscher decided they wanted to help fight covid-19 by creating a mask that printed the image of Asscher diamonds. The mask is made of non-medical fabric and is sold online: the profits were destined for scientists at the LUMC (Leiden University Medical Center).
Pasquale Bruni on the moon with Petit Joli
Love on the moon with Pasquale Bruni. For spring 2024 the Petit Joli collection presents four new combinations of gems and moonstones. This is an evolution of one of the historic collections of the Valenza Maison, which adds the new stylistic touch of Eugenia Bruni. Petit Joli with the moonstone also combines from a creative point of view with other gems: onyx, green agate, mother of pearl and pink chalcedony. The underlying idea is to connect soul and nature, given that each stone is attributed a meaning or symbolic magical power. Regardless of opinions, in any case, what matters is the aesthetic aspect of the jewels, which retain the traditional flower shape, symbol of the Maison.
The collection is made of 18k rose gold with white and champagne diamonds. The jewels already present in the collection are updated: the earring becomes a pendant, the ring is embellished with diamonds in the stem as well as the necklace, and the new choker and bangle are added, also enriched with diamond details.
New Couture jewels for Annamaria Cammilli
Annamaria Cammilli has long since also introduced a series of high-end jewels, which complement the jewelery lines that have made the Tuscan brand famous, such as Dune. In 2024, the high-end Couture line will be enriched with new creations with the characteristic sinuous shapes that characterize the Florence Maison. The jewels, in gold in the typical exclusive shades with a matte finish, follow the stylistic canons of the brand, with rounded and enveloping shapes, in which stones such as fancy diamonds or tourmalines are set. The dimensions of the rings are generous without being excessive.
Another example of high-end jewelery by Annamaria Cammilli is the new Cocoon collection, which uses an overlapping of gold surfaces that add an unexpected three-dimensionality to the jewels. At the center of the jewels, made with some of the eight shades of gold used by the Maison, are stones such as tanzanites or tourmalines in bright colors.
Also high-end is the Premiere collection, with its shapes inspired by the marine world. The collection uses precious stones such as emeralds, sapphires, fancy and brown pear-cut diamonds. The line now also features a gold necklace with thin diamond edges surrounding 18 pear-cut emeralds. Last year the brand presented a necklace with the same design, but with sapphires.
The precious leaves of Michael Aram
Handcrafted worked metal and colored stones in jewelery by Michael Aram ♦ ︎
In Hindi, the word aram means “sweetness, peace, love, and care.” If this is Michael Aram’s mood, it is uncertain. In any case, he emphasizes this semantic affinity. Michael Aram is an American designer and artist, born in New York, where he works. At the end of the 1980s he traveled to India and this trip changed his life: he discovered the tradition of metalworking and created a home and laboratory in New Delhi. From there, the business continued and Aram founded a company that produces home design items. Furniture, design, but craftsmanship. But it also offers jewelry.
The passion for ancient traditions has been linked to an entrepreneurial spirit that has transformed it into a signature in its field. But after a few years, Michael Aram has expanded his business to jewelry as well. Of course with collections that have hand-crafted metal their fulcrum. Not only that: Micheal Aram’s jewels, which also appeared at Couture 2017 in Las Vegas, make a large use of precious stones and precious stones, as in the Botanical Leaf collection. This is something that the Indian likes too much.
The gems of Pamela Huizenga
The dance of the stones drives Pamela Huizenga fantasy: unique pieces with gems at the center of her creativity ♦
At 16, in Florida, Pamela Huizenga had already shown her passion for stones. The minerals were collected, as long as were a bit shining, and brought home. She did not suspect, though, that after a few years would become a well-known and appreciated designer. Actually there is a pause in her history: after studying the cutting of stones and the secrets of an accomplished artisan goldsmith in North Carolina, she was married and had three children.
But the passion for the stones has prevailed. The start of the conversion to jewelry designer was a bit casual, with the purchase of an Ethiopian opal on eBay. It was 2009. From this stone began the path that has turned into a jewelry professional, that only creates unique pieces. His creations are made between Florida, New York and Bali, where work an artisan woman specialized in the processing of silver pieces. Needless to say the center of its jewels include especially stones, especially those who have something special: turquoise, jade, opals of different types (Ethiopian or Mexican), but also fossils and petrified wood are the basic elements upon which you exercise the fantasy of Pamela. The prices of her jewels start at about $ 4,000.
The Essentials of PdPaola
The Spanish brand PdPaola offers the Essentials line for spring 2024. The new items include Chicago hoop earrings in 18k gold-plated silver: they vaguely resemble the shape of a padlock, but are inspired by the architecture of the American city. The Rodeo hoop earrings are also made of gold-plated silver, with a long, interchangeable link. Another earring model is Texas, with a very elongated shape and characterized by a central horizontal bar.
The entire collection uses plated silver, but some pieces add cubic zirconia pavé or freshwater pearls to the metal. The design of the jewelry is very simple, but does not lack personality. Prices vary from around 60 euros up to 159 euros for the Rodeo earrings and 139 euros for the Chicago earrings.
PdPaola is a brand founded in Barcelona in 2015 by brothers Paola and Humbert Sasplugas, as a native digital brand and then expanded throughout the world. It sells online, but also in 2,000 stores in more than 15 international markets, including the United States.
Farnese Gioielli enriches its collections with the launch of new jewels. The Roman Maison is characterized by the use of a patent, registered in 70 countries around the world, the Spine, which allows jewels to be composed thanks to a modular system. In practice, different pavé surfaces can be superimposed on a gold metallic cot. The idea comes from designer Barbara Polli, who together with Alberto Serraino founded Farnese Gioielli in 2012. Now the brand renews one of its flagship lines, Habibi Collection, which is expanded thanks to the introduction of a new pendant with necklace and innovative creations of bar and oval dangling earrings.
The earrings respect the sinuous design and characteristics of the line: Habibi is a word in the Arabic language which literally means “my beloved”. The mobile and interchangeable pavé of precious stones is also used in this collection: the novelty is the use of Yellow Fancy Vivid diamonds, in the highest level of color gradation (vivid). The metal band, however, is in yellow or rose gold. In addition to diamonds, the collection uses pink, yellow or orange sapphires. Another novelty from Farnese Gioielli are the Trinus cufflinks.
During my creative journey and the creation of this new jewel I thought of an elegant, erudite man, attentive to detail and a lover of art, in short, an aristocrat. I decided to pay attention to the geometries and not to interchangeability. The twin has the shape of an equilateral triangle, which symbolizes balance and perfection. It is an original accessory not only in its composition but also in its design, which for the first time allows the Maison to use the invisible setting.
Barbara Polli, creative director and co-founder
The geometric base of the cufflinks is offered in two variants, yellow gold and white gold, with baguette-cut diamonds cut perfectly at the vertices of the triangle. At the center, a hard stone is harmoniously set: lapis lazuli in the yellow gold version and onyx for the white gold version. The letter F, symbol of the Brand, is engraved on the American-style clasp, made with the same hard stone.
Romantic sunset with Nanis
The sunset has been painted, described, sung, photographed, filmed: it is the most romantic moment of the day thanks to its vivid colours. The moment before the evening, with all the symbolism it inspires, is also the subject chosen by Nanis for the new Sunset collection. It was inevitable that, this time, the Venetian brand led by Laura Bicego would choose pink gold, in harmony with the colors of the sunset. A choice that also marks a stylistic innovation in the history of the Maison, which has always favored burin-scratched yellow gold.
What, however, remains unchanged is the use of elongated boules, characteristic of the Nanis style. Another novelty, alongside the shade of gold, is also the use of metal in a shiny version. Furthermore, in some pieces, the gold is accompanied by a pavé of diamonds, which enriches the surface of rings, earrings and gives an extra touch to the long necklace which can be worn in different styles: multi-strand, or sautoir or with a hanging wire, thanks to a closing system that allows modularity.
Laurent Gandini’s twisted jewels
Torsade, collection signed by Laurent Gandini, is one of the typical elements of Baroque architecture. Just think of the columns surrounding the altar inside St. Peter’s Basilica, designed by Bernini in the first half of the seventeenth century. But the twist is an element that is also well suited to jewelry, for example with the use of intertwined gold threads.
And also in the Torsade collection of the Milanese jeweler there are edges in 9 carat rose gold that form an endless spiral and that enclose natural stones of different colors. For example, amethyst, prasiolite, blue London topaz, square or octagonal cut, are surrounded by a twisted gold motif.
There is little information about Laurent Gandini. He apparently studied medieval history at university, but then he chose to be a jewelry designer. He worked for Missoni, but in 1990 he went on his own and launched his range of jewelry made in Milan. It is inspired by popular tradition motifs, such as ex-votos, but also by architectural styles, such as the rose windows of medieval Lombard churches. I expect him not surprising given his youth studies.