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Tessa Packard, british style

Alongside traditional jewels, Tessa Packard surprises with precious but also fun creations

Tessa Packard is the creative director of the brand that she founded in 2013 and that in a short time has climbed the ranking of trendy jewelers. You often make slightly eccentric pieces, such as her Fried Egg earrings, made of white gold, diamonds, yellow agate and white topaz (price: 15,000 pounds). She describes her formula as “good design and narrative integrity”. She introduces a new collection every six months, but she has also specialized in the production of bespoke jewelry, both for individual clients and for other companies.

Rock Pool earring in oro bianco, ottone ossidato, rodio nero, smalto e citrino
18ct white gold verdigris brass, black rhodium, white enamel and citrine crab earrings

In short, creative imagination together with creativity in business. Tessa also rightly points out that she often participates as a speaker in numerous workshops dedicated to the role of women in the world of work. In any case, her production is liked: in 2015 the Maison was nominated for one of the 30 Hot Under 30 faces in the jewelry sector. And to say that Tessa is totally self-taught. She was born in Brazil but raised in Great Britain. She studied Fine Arts and Art History at university before launching herself into London’s commercial art world. But she moved from art galleries to jewelry.

She is keen to point out that all of her jewelery is handcrafted and finished in the UK. Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa transforms into original jewelry.

Bracciale in oro giallo e acquamarina del Mozambico
Bracelet in yellow gold and Mozambique aquamarine

Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside the traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high-quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa processes into original jewelry.

Anello Manhattan in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli
Manhattan ring in 18K gold, lapis lazuli
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati, argento brunito, perle e diamanti con nappa staccabile
Necklace in 18K yellow gold, burnished silver, pearls and diamonds with detachable tassel
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, quarzo rosa, onice, ossidiana e maialino in porcellana dipinta
Earrings in 18K white gold, rose quartz, onyx, obsidian and painted porcelain piglet
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, ottone, corallo, plastica, carta da parati vintage e pesci in resina
Earrings in 18K yellow gold, brass, coral, plastic, vintage wallpaper and resin fish
Orecchini in lucite
Lucite earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e tormalina anguria
Pendant earrings in 18K yellow gold, diamonds and watermelon tourmaline
Tessa Packard, orecchini Fried Eggs
Tessa Packard, Fried Eggs earrings

The A.Link’s diamonds

The American Maison A. Link, specialized in the most loved stone by women: diamonds ♦

Diamonds, diamonds, diamonds: some people love jewels only if they revolve around the most popular gemstone. And this is the story of A.Link, a New York company that specializes in diamond jewelry. Does just that since 1904. It was founded by Adolph Link, jeweler from Vienna who emigrated to the US, which has brought the taste loved by the wealthy Europeans of the Belle Epoque in a nation that was growing rapidly. More than a century later, the company is still family owned, managed by Jeffrey Link and Douglas Sills in New York.

Collana di diamanti di A.Link
Diamond Necklace by A.Link

Passed the mark of 110 years, celebrated in 2014 with a Jck prize to a ring, You and Me, continues to propose his recipe that seems to have an eternal success: diamonds, diamonds and more diamonds, but with certificates of origin and sustainable production. Adolph Link, it seems, was the first to study and sample the diamonds to get uniform quality of the stones. In this way the jewels have created a homogeneity and, of course, a more certain value. The company also boasts a special ability in the choice of the cut. In short, if you like diamonds, by A.Link you find to the full.

Bracciale tennis in oro rosa e diamanti
Tennis bracelet in rose gold and diamonds
Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamond stud earrings
Pendente Eclipse
Eclipse pendant
Set con diamanti baguette, montatura in platino. Questo anello ha vinto il premio del 2014 JCK Jewelers nella categoria Platinum per vendita al dettaglio meno di 10.000 dollari nei Jck Awards 2014
Set with baguette diamonds, platinum setting. This ring won the 2014 JCK Jewelers award in the Platinum category for retailing under $10,000 in the 2014 Jck Awards
Bracciale di diamanti e platino, per un totale di 10 carati
Diamond and platinum bracelet, totaling 10 carats
Collana per Forevermark, diamanti e oro bianco
Necklace for Forevermark, diamonds and white gold
Bracciale Bubble con fermaglio, oro bianco e diamanti
Bubble bracelet with clasp, white gold and diamonds
Orecchini a forma di goccia, diamanti e oro bianco
Drop-shaped earrings, diamonds and white gold

Amle, the South you do not expect

If you aren’t from South Italy, as you imagine it? Easy: color, vibrancy, exuberant nature. It is with these images in the heart that a decade ago was born Amle in Santa Maria Capua Vetere, Province of Caserta. In Campania region the colors are, perhaps, even more determined than elsewhere: Marisa Angelucci, creative mind of the Italian brand, does not hide it. She started with an antique store and then went just to handcrafted jewelry.

Collana con cammei, collezione Costiera
Necklace with cameos, Costiera collection

It debuted in Milan at Macef, the first trade fair. It was successful, until get now to Las Vegas, to Jck Show: sign that jewels of Neapolitan company are appreciated even beyond the border. One of the characteristic signs is the use of an ancient material, but little used in jewelery: the horn, also of zebù. It is natural, they say in the company, and has an ancient tradition.

La collana Bambolata nata dieci anni fa per un progetto speciale realizzato con la nostra musa Erminia Manfredi per Vogue, un gioiello iconico, decisamente un opera d’arte. Negli anni ha conquistato copertine, musei e alcune delle donne più importanti al mondo. Un gioiello realizzato totalmente a mano, con stampi borbonici dell’800 ancora rifilati a mano, montati su corno e perle
The Bambolata necklace born ten years ago for a special project created for Vogue, made entirely by hand, with Bourbon molds from the 1800s still trimmed by hand, mounted on horn and pearls

It is used in an unusual mix: semi-precious stones, precious and semi precious, pearl, coral, pearls, silver, onyx, starfish. But the beauty is that these traditional materials are used to combine bijoux colorful and modern. By the way, the Amle name is formed from the initials of the family: Alice, Marisa, Luca, Ermenegilda. The summer 2023 collection, portrayed in the images with the advice of art director Marco Ferra and the photographs of Victor Santiago, is called Costiera, like that stretch of sea and land in Campania famous all over the world.

Collezione Costiera, collana con conchiglie
Costiera collection, necklace with shells
Collezione Costiera, con conchiglie, corallo, fiori
Costiera collection, with shells, coral, flowers
Collana e orecchini con tamburelli dipinti a mano
Necklace and earrings with hand painted tambourines
Collana con tamburello in legno e pelle di capra dipinto a mano, cimbali in argento
Necklace with hand painted wooden and goat skin tambourine, silver cymbals

Choose the right size of necklace

Long or short? Choker or sautoir? For day or night? If you want to know what is the right length of a necklace, read this quick guide. Because the right length of a necklace also depends on the wearer’s body ♦

Non è facile scegliere la collana giusta...
It’s not easy to choose the right necklace…

The necklace don’t must be too large: it must be the right size. Whether it’s a day of celebration or not, it is good to pay attention to the length of a necklace: it not must to be out of tune to your body size, but not out of tune with the clothing. So, every day you have to pay attention to the jewel that you choose and the combination with the dress. Of course, in addition to the model, also the length of the necklace must be in harmony. In Europe, in general, the necklaces are divided into five different lengths (not considering the length of the clip which, if it is very large, it should be calculated).

Collana Louis Vuitton indossata
Worn Louis Vuitton necklace

The collar is long from 38 to 42 cm, depending on neck size. Usually it look better on thin necks. The so-called princess necklace is longer: from 43 to 50 cm. In practice, it is not attached to the neck, but it goes down to the clavicle. The necklace is called matinee (was considered a good measure for the day) is even longer, 50 cm. It is an intermediate compared to necklaces that reach 55 cm and cover the neckline. Finally, there are the necklaces long, 60 cm and over. Are so-called sautoir or opera, very popular in the thirties. The necklaces even longer, from 80 centimeters per meter and beyond, are wrapped in two or more turns.

cane e collana
A neck that is not perfectly shaved is not suitable for a pearl choker
Una collana girocollo è indicata per chi ha un collo sottile
A choker necklace looks good on those with a thin neck

Pendants. A pendant large changes the look and balance of a necklace. In addition to the length, in short, one has to consider the aesthetic effect of the pendent.

Collana indossata
Piaget, necklace with Possession pendant worn

Choose the length. The length of the necklace must be proportionate to the height and body type. Necklaces court are not recommended for women curvilinear because accentuate the width. On the contrary, necklaces too long can accentuate an excessive thinness. Who has a big breast don’t needs a further emphasize of the shapes with a big necklace: better a jewel that is midway between the collarbone and neck. Who has a few curves can instead opt for a longer chain.

Jeux de Liens indossato
Chaumet, necklaces from the Jeux de Liens collection

Outfit. A short necklace is more formal. To evenings, ceremonies and official occasions better to opt for a chocker, since it is assumed to be worn with a neckline very high or above a high-necked dress. A necklace double or triple ride can be the right solution, but attention to the distance between a wire and the other. If it is a small chain or small beads, the lines can stand next to each other, if are bigger, better to keep a greater distance.

 

La lunghezza delle collane secondo le definizioni negli Usa. Misure in pollici
The length of the necklaces according to the definitions in the USA. Measurements in inches
Modella con collier di Jacob & co
Model with choker by Jacob & co. Copyright: Gioiellis.com
Tina Kunakey, con il collier in oro giallo e platino con diamanti taglio round e taglio baguette da 37 carati, originariamente realizzato da Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. nel 1956 e ricreato nel 1986 in occasione del 30° anniversario di Jean Schlumberger da Tiffany & Co.
Tina Kunakey wearing the 37-carat yellow gold and platinum baguette- and round-cut diamond necklace originally designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and recreated in 1986 for Jean Schlumberger’s 30th anniversary at Tiffany & Co. Co.

The palette of Campbellian

Fabulous stones, strong colors, magical combinations: here are the jewels of Bella Campbellian, specialist in unusual combinations ♦

Do you like earrings and rings with very colored gemstones? In this case the Campbellian Collection it’s for you. The brand was founded by an expert in physics, no less. But also passionate about dogs, who lives with her husband and son in New Jersey, USA. Her name is Bella Campbell and is the creative mind and founder of Campbellian. In addition to a Masters in Physics at the Georgia State University, she is an expert in marketing as well as gems, and began her career as Associate Buyer for The Fine Jewelry Department at Macy’s, New York.

Orecchini con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri rosa, diamanti
Rainbow Moonstone and Pink Sapphire Earrings with Diamond Accent

It is easy to deduce the type of jewelry she offers: especially earrings and rings that shine thanks to the compositions of stones as Paraiba tourmaline, spinel, rubellite, tsavorite, tanzanite, moon stone, but also opal and zircon. Often these stones are chosen for their unusual color: as in the case of the stone blue moon or green garnets. There is also stones not very known as the grossular, this a stone that takes on different colors too. So, if the compositions of the jewels from a geometrical point of view are quite traditional, the one that stands out right away is, however, the coloring resulting from the combination of stones, often mounted on platinum. If you like the jewels that are immediately noticeable, then look at these pictures.

Anello con pietra luna arcobaleno e diamanti
ARainbow moonstone and diamond ring
Anello in oro bianco, rubellite, rubini, diamanti
Ring in white gold, rubellite, rubies, diamonds
Anello in platino e oro bianco con tormalina Paraiba e grossular
Ring in platinum and white gold with Paraiba tourmaline and grossular
Ciondolo in oro con diamanti, spinello rosa e viola, tormalina magenta
Gold pendant with diamonds, pink and purple spinel, magenta tourmaline
Orecchini in oro bianco, tormalina verde menta, granati champagne e verdi, tormalina neon, diamanti
Earrings in white gold, mint green tourmaline, champagne and green garnets, neon tourmaline, diamonds
Orecchini con pietra luna arcobaleno e zaffiro rosa, diamanti
Earrings with rainbow moonstone and pink sapphire, diamonds
Orecchini con rubini, diamanti, opale
Earrings with rubies, diamonds, opal
Orecchini in oro rosa con zirconi blu e diamanti
Rose gold earrings with blue zircons and diamonds

The treasures by Como Gioielli

Salvatore Como Gioielli, the virtuosity of the Valencia school.

Salvatore Como Gioielli is an artisan jewelery company created by Salvatore Scibetta. Goldsmith, jeweler, designer, after having worked for companies such as Santagostino, Crova and Cantamessa, Scibetta decided to set up on his own in 2007. Even if it is called with the name of a Lombard city, Salvatore Como Gioielli is based in Valenza, in the Italian luxury jewelry. Scibetta immediately put the accumulated experience to good use to design and produce unique pieces of the highest quality. But most of the production is towards other brands, which require the ability and experience of Como Gioielli.

Como Gioielli, aneli polpo e orecchini palla, in oro e zaffiri
Como Gioielli, octopus rings and ball earrings, in gold and sapphires

For example, the company is capable of producing pieces such as the emerald necklace in 18-karat white gold, with natural stones for 43 carats, emerald earrings in 18-karat white gold, the Margherita collection, with an adaptable multi-size ring in 18-karat white gold , diamonds, emeralds, rubies and natural sapphires. Finally, an 18-karat red gold slave bracelet with 22-carat natural white diamonds. Or the series of jewels inspired by the marine world, with octopuses and stars in gold, diamonds and sapphires: a work that only the most skilful Maisons can produce.

Anello Fucsia
Fuchsia ring
Orecchini Palla
Ball earrings
Anello a forma di polipo in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Octopus-shaped ring in pink gold, diamonds and pink sapphires
Collana in oro e diamanti
Gold and diamond necklace
Bracciale in oro 750 e diamanti interamente eseguito a mano
Bracelet in 750 gold and diamonds entirely handmade
Bracciale in oro 750 e diamanti interamente eseguito a mano. Sottobracciale intercambiabile in pelle di galuchat
Bracelet in 750 gold and diamonds entirely handmade. Interchangeable under bracelet in galuchat leather

How to avoid allergies to nickel

Have you ever found marks on the skin where you have worn rings, necklaces or earrings? They could have been caused by nickel allergy. Here’s what you need to do to avoid nickel allergy ♦

Receiving a beautiful ring as a gift and not being able to wear it: the fault lies with the allergy. It often happens that a jewel, perhaps a favorite, turns out to be an enemy of the skin. The most common cause is nickel dermatitis, also called contact dermatitis, nickel allergy. The problem can arise at any time and at any age. Even jewelry that up to that moment has never caused irritation, can suddenly turn out to be harmful. Each individual human body reacts differently to nickel depending on tolerance and sensitivity level. Among other things, there are rare cases in which the allergy is also manifested by wearing gold or silver jewelry: but the most frequent cause is, also in this case, the nickel content present in bijoux. Pure gold and silver are metals too soft to be transformed into frames. Nickel has often been added, like zinc and copper, to make gold and silver more resistant and allow it to give the desired shape. In addition, the nickel gives a shiny effect. Zinc and copper do not damage the skin, which is instead more and more nickel.

Saranno gioielli a prova di dermatite?
Will it be dermatitis-proof jewels?

The dangerous metals. Keep in mind that 14-karat or 18-karat gold contains a greater amount of different metals than 24-karat gold, the only one that is completely pure. In short, the purer the gold, the less allergies it causes. Nickel is also used in jewelry in alloys with platinum and white gold. But platinum jewelry is quite expensive and, statistically, there are fewer cases of allergies, as it is rarer. In addition, platinum and white gold are also often reinforced with palladium, a metal that does not cause allergies. However, it is more expensive.

Bancarella di bijoux
Jewelery stall

Often the allergy is caused by the contact of the metal with the most sensitive layer of the skin, such as the hole in the nose or ear. Nickel penetrates through the skin into the bloodstream of the body. At this point the cells react to the nickel. Another cause that can give rise to allergies is sweat. When it is hot and the jewelry is worn for a long time, the skin sweats. Perspiration comes into contact with the metal of the jewelry, dissolves the nickel, and forms nickel salts. The salt reacts on contact with the skin and causes the allergy. It is commonly believed that women suffer more than men, but the number of men wearing jewelry is far less.

L'attrice e modella Kendall Jenner su Instagram con un enorme anello al naso
Actress and model Kendall Jenner on Instagram with a huge nose ring

Symptoms. Nickel allergy can cause blood loss, or swelling and the production of pus. In most cases, however, there is a constant itching or burning around the area where the skin has been in direct contact with the jewel. More rarely, allergic people find a blue tint on their finger after removing a ring, or a rash or red spots on the skin. Nickel allergy sufferers end up wearing only stainless steel jewelry. In fact, this metal also contains nickel, but it also does not leave it as it is hermetically held, it rarely comes in direct contact with the skin.

Orecchini di metallo con lega di nickel indossati
Worn nickel alloy metal earrings

Another enemy are the traces of soap and water under the jewels. The cleansers break the protective shield of the skin and allow the nickel to come into direct contact with the deeper layers. Earrings and rings are more likely to retain water droplets after a bath. Taking off your jewelry before washing is a useful precaution, especially when doing housework and hands being washed countless times. Detergents or other cleaning products that get under a ring can cause allergy. Unfortunately, there are no cures: dermatologists offer some medical treatments, but they are usually only effective for the short term. After some time, regardless of the treatment, the allergy reappears.

Dermatite da anello
Ring dermatitis

How to avoid allergy. If you really don’t want to do it, or if you forget to remove the rings, pass a layer of transparent nail polish inside the jewel: it can help avoid direct contact with the metal. Another precaution to avoid allergies can be to apply talcum powder before wearing the jewelry: in this way, humidity is avoided. Furthermore, those who fear an allergic reaction must be careful not to wear tight earrings, rings or chains: if the air passes through the jewel it is less likely that contact with the skin causes a reaction. Alternating jewelry more often reduces the risk. Finally, remember to keep the jewelry clean and dry. Those who are very sensitive to nickel can choose lacquered or palladium-plated jewelry.

Do you want to know what nickel is?
It seems the original name of this metal, nickel, derives from the Swedish word Nickel, diminutive of a proper name, Nicolaus. And in the tradition of the Nordic country Nicolaus was a name given to people of little value, but also to goblins. But metal has nothing to do with Henry Potter’s wizarding world. Nickel, or nickel, is a metal that was already used in the Bronze Age, over 3500 years ago, in the Middle East and China. In the West, nickel came into common use in the mid-eighteenth century, when Baron Axel Frederik Cronstedt, attempting to extract copper from a mineral, niccolite, obtained a white metal which he called nickel, a name that derives from the German Kupfernickel, that is, false copper, or from nickel (elf, little devil in German).

La moneta di nickel da 5 centesimi di dollaro con Thomas Jefferson
The 5 cent nickel (25%) coin featuring Thomas Jefferson

Why is it used?
Nickel is a white, silvery metal. It belongs to the iron group and is therefore hard, but also malleable, easy to work with. It is also appreciated in jewelery for the properties it gives when alloyed with gold, platinum or silver, especially because it gives strength and is resistant to corrosion.

Una moneta da 5 centesimi: contiene nickel
A 5 cent euro coin: contains nickel

Nickel, in addition to being present in many jewelry alloys together with gold, is used in a wide range of products. So if you have signs of allergy on your hands, maybe it’s not your earrings, but cutlery, watches, scissors, lighters, cell phones, doorknobs and even coins. And if you have marks on your neck, it is not certain that the cause is the necklace, but perhaps glasses, food and pots…

The first thing to do, in short, is to check with which metals you come in contact often.

But, be careful: maybe you do not know that nickel can also be hidden in cosmetics, personal hygiene products (such as hair dyes, toothpastes, shampoos, nail polishes). In this case hunting nickel is easier. Read the label well: the presence of nickel must be declared by the manufacturer, even if you may find it written in small letters. Finished? No: who is really very allergic also risks at the table. In fact, some foods naturally contain nickel, even if in very small quantities. In any case, if your allergy does not disappear, eliminate these foods.

Insalata
Salad

Here are the forbidden foods:

blueberries, oats, buckwheat, walnuts and hazelnuts, broccoli, potatoes, baking powder, apricots, cabbage, spinach, peanuts, carrots, tomatoes, oysters, figs, onions, asparagus, lentils, whole wheat flour, beans, liquorice, cooked and raw pears, mushrooms, corn, lettuce, peas, almonds, tea, lobster, margarine, cocoa and chocolate, avocado.

Mirtilli
Blueberries: good, but…

Fortunately, according to experts, only less than 20% of nickel allergies are caused or worsened by food. But if this is the case you have to eliminate these foods altogether for at least a month or a month and a half before you see a difference. In any case, do not worry, you do not risk starving.

Here are some foods without nickel:

radicchio, endive, fennel, aubergines, courgettes, peppers, cucumbers, beets, watermelon, melon, citrus fruits, peaches, bananas, strawberries, grapes, milk and dairy products, 00 flour, rice, meat, fish (but not mussels, clams, sea urchins and crustaceans), brewer’s yeast.

Ottimi peperoni
Great peppers

Last advices if you suffer from nickel allergy:

    • When you open the tap, run the water for a few minutes to remove any traces of nickel released from the pipes.
      If you are cooking a cake, use baking soda instead of baking powder to rise.
      Choose pyrex pots, glass, aluminum, unglazed pottery, silargan, teflon. This type of crockery prevents the release of nickel from cutlery or other utensils you use.

The Istanboulli dream

Since he was a child in Aleppo, Krikor Istanboulli has been interested in the goldsmith’s art. But his life led him to focus on the trade of precious stones: he began to trade gold and stones between East and West. Arrived in Italy he founded Art.Or, while his brother Arturo created another company, Krisonia, which is a portmanteau between his father’s name, Krikor, and his mother’s, Sonia. The love for jewels, however, did not abandon him and, having established his base in Milan, he founded Istanboulli Gioielli. Given his profession, he was able to supply his Maison with precious stones and gold capable of satisfying even a mahraja. Although he continues to lead the wholesale of precious stones, he has therefore developed a brand that uses the best materials.

Anello Volo in oro e diamanti venduto da Neiman Marcus
Volo ring in gold and diamonds sold by Neiman Marcus

Directing the flow of diamonds, rubies and emeralds is his son Vace, who graduated from GIA. In order not to miss anything, he has also become an expert in pearls, after spending six months working with an Akoya and South Sea wholesaler. He also spent some time in Antwerp, the capital of diamonds. In short, no improvisation, they are professionals here. Valuable help also comes from Zarmine, his daughter, who joined the company in 2003. She does marketing. In short, the work of the Istanboulli family is at the top and now their manufacturing and wholesale companies are among the largest in Italy.

Bracciale in oro rosa e zaffiri
Bracelet in rose gold and sapphires
Orecchini in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi
Earrings in yellow gold, diamonds and emeralds
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi
Ring in yellow gold, diamonds and emeralds
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione Anima
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione Anima
Vace Istanboulli
Vace Istanboulli

Van Cleef & Arpels, Belle de Jour

In the history of jewelry there is also a special necklace that has a special story: it’s called Belle de Jour and was made by Van Cleef & Arpels. It is an ad hoc creation. That is, it’s a custom-made necklace for a wealthy client. The name is not known. But for half a century, from 1930, it was admired solely and exclusively by its anonymous owner. Then, a few years ago, the client granted Van Cleef & Arples permission to reproduce it. And here it is in all its beauty.

Collana Belle de Jour indossata
Belle de Jour necklace worn

The necklace is one of 11 pieces in the Tresors Reveles collection, all created from sketches made in the house’s archives dating from 1920 to 1960. The jewel is extraordinary: it forms a drape that can also be worn on the shoulders. It is made of white gold, with over 100 carats of diamonds in various cuts, and interrupted with turquoise cabochons. The necklace can also be transformed into two bracelets, earrings or it can become a belt.

Collier Belle de Jour
Collier Belle de Jour

There is, however, one aspect that is less known. The secret history of the necklace. The name, Belle de Jour, refers to the novel written in 1929 by Joseph Kessel. Belle de Jour, Beautiful by day, then also became a film directed by Luis Buñuel in 1967, starring Catherine Deneuve. It is the story of a society woman who is a prostitute for three hours during the day. And she does it for herself, not to satisfy her desire for her or for money, but her existential restlessness, for a psychological discomfort. In short, the novel, and the film, are not a classic erotic novel, but also a journey into the psychological implications of the sexuality and loneliness of Séverine, the protagonist, who meets her clients every afternoon from 2 to 5 pm. At the time the book caused a scandal and, perhaps, also explains why in 1930 the client (and the recipient of the gift) remained anonymous. Maybe today belle de jour would be called escort and would like to let it be known, who knows…

Bozzetto della collana Belle de Jour
Sketch of the Belle de Jour necklace
Catherine Deneuve nel film Bella di Giorno
Catherine Deneuve in the movie Belle de Jour

Women willing to pay for their engagement ring

Would you, women, be willing to pay out of your pocket for the engagement ring? No? You are in the minority. There are many women who, to have an engagement ring, are ready to attack their bank account. For sure, for example, this is the opinion of the majority of English women. A study conducted long ago in Britain by the jewelry department of the TV channel Qvc (specializing in online sales) revealed that 54% of British women would be willing to contribute financially to the purchase of their engagement ring. For having one.

1 When do you give an engagement ring as a gift?
2 The 10 etiquette rules for the engagement ring
3 How to choose the engagement ring
4 Engagement ring: 5 things to know
5 Women dissatisfied with the engagement ring
6 Women willing to pay for their engagement ring
7 Colored Engagement Rings

Anello di fidanzamento
Engagement ring

Not only that: one in five women confessed to having purchased her own engagement ring herself. What’s the reason? Have men stopped having interest in women, so much so as not to show their love by spending on the ring? Fortunately, this is not the case. Rather, it is the difficult economic situation that makes it less easy for men to open their wallets to buy a ring with a brilliant, also because it has been calculated that the cost of a diamond ring corresponds on average to one or two monthly salaries.

L'anello di fidanzamento della regina Elisabetta II
Queen Elizabeth II’s engagement ring

Buying an engagement ring is not a simple expense. To this is added another factor: women are less and less satisfied with a ring with a 0.000001 carat diamond. On the contrary, they want a jewel to be proudly showing friends and relatives, with a clearly visible gem. But that type of rings, you know, are very expensive. This dissatisfaction pushes many women to enter a jewelry to choose the ring model to be inserted on the finger.

L'anello di fidanzamento di Kate Middleton
Kate Middleton’s engagement ring previously belonged to Diana

Another reason that often causes dissatisfaction is not only the size of the diamond, but also the model of the chosen ring. Although the classic white gold ring with a solitary diamond mounted at the top is the most common engagement ring, there is no shortage of women who have the desire to show off a different jewel, which is distinguished most. It should not be forgotten that the famous engagement ring given by the then Prince Charles (now king) to Diana Spencer was a ring with a large blue sapphire, which then ended up on Kate Middleton’s finger, now Princess of Cambridge.

Anello con brillante indossato
Ring with worn brilliant by Conte Diamonds

If you think you choose yourself the engagement ring, however, you must be careful not to ruin your relationship. The purchase of the ring is a delicate moment in life with two, which will remember for a long time, all life. If you don’t want your partner to choose the ring, however, avoid telling him that he would not be able to do it, that he has not understood your tastes or, worse, that it is economically inadequate. Better, however, present your choice as an intelligent solution not to waste money, to avoid waste of time or as an example of a role of less passive woman. It can be a less traumatic explanation and welcomed with serenity by the future husband.

Recarlo, anello della collezione Blue Carpet indossato
Worn Recarlo, ring from the Blue Carpet collection

Another technique to choose yourself the engagement ring, but pretending that he has chosen it, it is to bring your partner in front (casually) to the showcase of the jewelry that you have previously identified. Of course you have to be careful not to be too direct, but to make your tastes understand and that you would not mind taking a look at the jewel directly.

Fotografia d’epoca con l’indossatrice Serenella in abito di Emilio Schubert nel luglio del 1963 che, poco dopo aver sfilato alla Sala Bianca di Palazzo Pitti a Firenze, posa davanti alla vetrina di Bijoux Cascio in via Tornabuoni. Archivio Riccardo Cascio. Foto Locchi
Period photograph with the model Serenella in a dress by Emilio Schubert in July 1963 who, shortly after having shown in the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti in Florence, poses in front of the Bijoux Cascio window in via Tornabuoni. Riccardo Cascio Archive. Photo Locchi

Barbie’s jewels

Do you like pink? Do you want to wear pink jewelry? Are you looking for a pink necklace? Or a bracelet? Or … Here are many ideas ♦

There are many reasons to wear pink jewelry, Barbie’s favorite color. The first is that it is the light version of marsala, announced color of the year, according to Pantone. In addition, it is definitely more suited to this season; the second reason is that its tone, even the one tinged with gray tinge, embellishes any type of skin. And This alone would be enough to convince anyone. But there is another side to act as an incentive and comes from English: think pink!It means thinking positive. And indeed a beautiful bright pink is a burst of energy, a stimulus to good mood. So, although many of the color names have lost their multiplicity of meanings, even in some languages in common phrases characterize specific moods. So, ring, earrings or bracelet have also colored stones, faceted or cabochon, translucent or opaque. Provided that they are pink.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Nigaam, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

And more, pink is a positive color. It takes its name from the fragrant flower of the same name. But perhaps you don’t know that it was born quite recently: the name rose was used for the first time to indicate a shade of color only at the end of the 17th century. In the West (especially Europe and the United States), pink is the color associated with concepts of charm, kindness, sensitivity, tenderness, sweetness, childhood, femininity and romance. If the hue is very light, it is associated with chastity and innocence. On the contrary, a bright pink suggests eroticism and seduction.

Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio e diamanti
Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio rosa e diamanti by Pasquale Bruni

The history of pink
One could write a history of the color pink. But, undoubtedly, the maximum popularity reached it in the mid-eighteenth century, when pastel colors became very fashionable in all the courts of Europe. The pink color in particular was highly appreciated by Madame de Pompadour (1721-1764), lover of King Louis XV of France, who often wore clothes that combined blue and pink. Not only that: she had a particular shade of pink created especially for her by the Sevres porcelain factory, apparently with small additions of blue, black and yellow.

Madame de Pompadour
Madame de Pompadour

Pink stones
But let’s talk about jewelry: in addition to pink gold, you have a wide choice of stones that have shades of rose. The most precious, and most expensive, is undoubtedly the diamond. Diamonds with pink shades are buyed for millions of dollars during the auctions. But luckily there are many other stones that also have this color tone in their repertoire: quartz, sapphire, mystic topaz, rhodolite garnet, morganite, kunzite, Malaya garnet, tourmaline, spinel, opal, zircon, pink pearl, moonstone , coral, smithsonite, pezzottaite, rhodochrosite and rhodonite. You only have the problem of choosing one.

Matilde de Bounvilles

Tiffany, anello Sugar Stacks di Paloma Picasso in oro rosa 18 carati con pavé di zaffiri rosa.
Tiffany, anello Sugar Stacks di Paloma Picasso in oro rosa 18 carati con pavé di zaffiri rosa.
Tamara Comolli, braccialetto Mikado Romance in oro rosa con quarzi, e morganite rosa.
Tamara Comolli, braccialetto Mikado Romance in oro rosa con quarzi, e morganite rosa.
Vhernier, orecchini Eclisse in oro bianco con rhodonite, cristallo di rocca, madreperla e diamanti
Vhernier, orecchini Eclisse in oro bianco con rhodonite, cristallo di rocca, madreperla e diamanti
Collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite. Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa
Minù, collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite.
Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa
Anello con diamante rosa di 8,42 carati, fancy rosa intenso, taglio brillante, ma «modificato rettangolare», chiarezza VVS1. AI lati due diamanti baguette
Anello con diamante rosa di 8,42 carati, fancy rosa intenso, taglio brillante, ma «modificato rettangolare», chiarezza VVS1. AI lati due diamanti baguette
Alessio Boschi, collezione Naturalia anello Peony con morganite centrale
Alessio Boschi, collezione Naturalia anello Peony con morganite centrale
Van Cleef & Arpels, orecchini Papillons in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels, orecchini Papillons in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Etho Maria, bracciale La Serpentine in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti brown
Etho Maria, bracciale La Serpentine in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti brown
Mary Ching, Wing, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Mary Ching, Wing, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Daniela Villegas, anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, anello con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, anello con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Irene Neuwirth, orecchini a forma di rosa in opale inciso, rhodocrosite tagliata a goccia e diamanti.
Irene Neuwirth, orecchini a forma di rosa in opale inciso, rhodocrosite tagliata a goccia e diamanti.
Olive
Larkspur & Hawk, collana con topazi rosa sfaccettati
Yoko London, anello con perla barocca rosa e pavé di diamanti
Yoko London, anello con perla barocca rosa e pavé di diamanti
Chantecler, orecchini Capri in oro rosa con ametista, fosfosiderite, zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Chantecler, orecchini Capri in oro rosa con ametista, fosfosiderite, zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Marie-Hélène de Taillac, orecchini in oro giallo con due tipi di quarzi rosa da 45 carati complessivi e due spinelli rosa più scuro
Marie-Hélène de Taillac, orecchini in oro giallo con due tipi di quarzi rosa da 45 carati complessivi e due spinelli rosa più scuro
Sutra, anello in oro rosa con diamanti e spinelli rosa e viola
Sutra, anello in oro rosa con diamanti e spinelli rosa e viola
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, orecchini con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, orecchini con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa

James Taffin, a Frenchman in New York

The elegant, eclectic, geometric jewels of James Taffin de Givenchy ♦

Take a look at this unique jewel: two topaz stones mounted along with diamonds on a thin flexible 18K rose gold. The necklace has been drew by a French transplanted to New York, James Taffin de Givenchy, grandson of the legendary Hubert. James fell in love with stones after being at the head of the jewelry department of Christie’s on the West Coast of the US. His work is inspired by that of the great French designers of jewelry, such as Raymond Templier and Suzanne Belperron. He opened his boutique and studio on Madison Avenue, in the Big Apple. With this shape, the necklace published by the New York Times, it can do without the clip.

Collana con due topazi e diamanti
Necklace with two topaz and diamonds

James Taffin is skilled in reinterpreting the ancient stones and rare to new forms, in very original way. For example, in the intentions of the designers this necklace reminds an exclamation mark abstract. The two pink topaz are, from the Victorian era, they are with slightly different shades: one is pear-shaped, 3.5-carat; the larger one with shades of mauve, 39 carats, has an oval cut. Nestled in the jewel there are also 105 diamonds. To set up this piece of jewelry, it took 60 hours. But the designer has other interests: true to its French origins and at its name, he’s interesting to environmental scents and fragrances. In 2011, Barneys New York has launched a capsule Taffin Home Fragrance collection of scented candles handmade in France and presented in containers bakelite designed by Givenchy.

Anello a forma di uovo con granato mandarino
Egg-shaped ring with mandarin garnet
Orecchini con ametiste brasiliane e smeraldi
Earrings with Brazilian amethysts and emeralds
Bracciale com diamanti, ceramica, oro rosa
Bracelet with diamonds, ceramic, pink gold
Orecchini con ametista baguette
Baguette amethyst earrings
Orecchini Méduses con diamanti
Meduses earrings with diamonds
Orecchini con diamanti taglio rosa per 4 carati, platino spazzolato, oro
Earrings with rose-cut diamonds for 4 carats, brushed platinum, gold

Flower shaped jewelry

Jewels and flowers: an eternal bond, but that each jeweler interprets in his own way. Here are the jewels of flower power ♦
The link between flowers and jewelry is longstanding: flower power in jewelry is not a new discovery, as happens now in fashion. Maybe because petals and pistils are a source of inspiration, they do not set limits to the imagination, to the use of colors and shapes. A real godsend for any creative, insomuch as every year the floral theme is one of the coolest trends. In short, it never goes out of fashion and with a good reason, because often the results are amazing. Some examples: the collection of fine jewelry Secret Garden by Faberge, a triumph of precious stones surrounded by leaves of carved jade, that look like a bouquet of flowers.

Anello a forma di fiore in titanio, opale di fuoco, diamanti gialli, tsavorite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium Flower Ring, Fire Opal, Yellow Diamonds, Tsavorite by Aso Leon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Or the corolla collier by Pasquale Bruni, a soft lawn buds, in white diamonds and morganite. The ring Lily of the Masterpieces collection by Damiani There is also a branch of a cherry tree, a pink explosion that wraps around the finger with the opened ring by Moorphée Joaillerie or the intricate and climbing bracelet-ring by Wendy Yue.

Wendy Yue, bracciale-anello con diamanti neri e fancy, zaffiri blu e rosa, tsavoriti e opali
Wendy Yue, bracelet-ring with black and fancy diamonds, blue and pink sapphires, tsavorites and opals

And, yet, the Tree of Life in the earrings by Annushka, the fleshy orchid by Carrera y Carrera and the delicate one by Autore. All pieces of the highest craftsmanship. But if you want something more simple as a shepe but the same high-impact, Asprey now proposes its classic brand icon, Heritage Daisy stud earrings  with petals that fade in the diamonds pistil. Monica Battistoni

Pendente per collana o spilla con diamante rosa vivido e coccinella con zaffiro cabochon
Gimel’s Vivid Pink Diamond Ladybug and Sapphire Cabochon Necklace Pendant or Brooch Pendant
Spilla Fiore di Suzanne Belperron, in calcedonio, diamanti, zaffiri su oro bianco
Flower brooch by Suzanne Belperron, in chalcedony, diamonds, sapphires on white gold
Anello con fiore arcobaleno con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Rainbow flower ring with yellow and white diamonds by DiaColor
Paolo Piovan, fiore con petali in opale e diamanti su oro bianco
Paolo Piovan, fiore con petali in opale e diamanti su oro bianco
Kelly Xie, Fiore di loto
Kelly Xie, Fiore di loto
Damiani, anello Giglio, in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi, smeraldi, zaffiri e rubini che sfumano dal fucsia al rosa chiaro
Damiani, anello Giglio, in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi, smeraldi, zaffiri e rubini che sfumano dal fucsia al rosa chiaro
Paula Crevoshay, spilla a forma di fiore con zaffiri orange e gialli
Paula Crevoshay, spilla a forma di fiore con zaffiri orange e gialli
Anello con doppio fiore in oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e fancy di diverso taglio
Crivelli, anello con doppio fiore in oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e fancy di diverso taglio
Anelli a forma di fiore in oro e pietre preziose
Artur Sholl, anelli a forma di fiore in oro e pietre preziose
Roberto Coin, Garden Collection anello in oro giallo e brunito con diamanti bianchi e brown, morganite, granati verdi, ametista e zaffiri gialli e neri
Roberto Coin, Garden Collection anello in oro giallo e brunito con diamanti bianchi e brown, morganite, granati verdi, ametista e zaffiri gialli e neri
Collezione Stelle in fiore, anelli con diamanti bianchi, neri e champagne
Pasquale Bruni, collezione Stelle in fiore, anelli con diamanti bianchi, neri e champagne
Autore, collana Orchid collection con perle South Sea Keshi bianche, zaffiri verdi e diamanti rosa pallido, bianchi e brown
Autore, collana Orchid collection con perle South Sea Keshi bianche, zaffiri verdi e diamanti rosa pallido, bianchi e brown
Palmiero, Flower Collection, anelli in oro bianco con diamanti bianchi, zaffiri e pietre semi preziose
Palmiero, Flower Collection, anelli in oro bianco con diamanti bianchi, zaffiri e pietre semi preziose
Morphée Joaillerie, anello in oro rosa con diamanti incolori, zaffiri e opali rosa
Morphée Joaillerie, anello in oro rosa con diamanti incolori, zaffiri e opali rosa
Annoushka, orecchini The Dream Catcher in oro rosa, diamanti e madre perla, raffiguranti l’Albero della vita con fiori e uccellini
Annoushka, orecchini The Dream Catcher in oro rosa, diamanti e madre perla, raffiguranti l’Albero della vita con fiori e uccellini
CarreraYCarrera1
Carrera y Carrera, bracciale Orquídeas in oro giallo, diamanti e rubini
Iligiz Fazulzyanov, anello da cocktail White Poppies in oro giallo, alexandrite e smalto
Iligiz Fazulzyanov, anello da cocktail White Poppies in oro giallo, alexandrite e smalto
Asprey, orecchini Daisy Heritage in oro giallo, zaffiri gialli taglio marquise e pavé di diamanti; oro bianco, acquamarine taglio marquise e pavé di diamanti
Asprey, orecchini Daisy Heritage in oro giallo, zaffiri gialli taglio marquise e pavé di diamanti; oro bianco, acquamarine taglio marquise e pavé di diamanti

Red diamonds, the rarest

Discovering a very rare gem: red diamonds. Did you know they exist? There are few of them and they have crazy prices. But they are beautiful ♦

Have you ever seen a natural red diamond like a ruby? It is very difficult. If only one diamond out of 10 thousand specimens has enough color to be classified as fancy (i.e. fantasy, of a color other than the classic white-colorless). Among the fancy diamonds, the pink ones are considered among the rarest and, if they have an even darker shade of tone, they are even more exceptional. These diamonds almost always also have secondary colors: pink, purple or brown, like the nuance of the Edcora Red Diamond, the largest ever classified by the Gia (5.71 carats) and kept well hidden by its owners, it seems to be a company of Hong Kong, so much so that there are no public photos and the origin of this diamond is not even known.

Due diamanti rossi della miniera australiana di Argyle
Two red diamonds from the Australian Argyle mine

In short, diamonds that have a red color are very rare. Furthermore, the origins of this coloring are still mysterious. Gemologists have not yet managed to agree on the origin of this shade. The most reliable thesis is that red diamonds are actually very dark pink gems. During the formation of the diamond, this type of stone would have been subjected to such great pressure as to alter the internal molecular structure: atoms out of place, compared to those of common colorless diamonds. But, at the moment, this hypothesis is being discussed.

Il diamante rosso De Young
The De Young Red Diamond

You will never buy a red diamond, unless you are as rich as a sheikh or a hi-tech genius from Silicon Valley. But, in case you are offered one, be careful: the color red may (and is the most likely hypothesis) not entirely natural. In fact, the coloring can also be induced by subjecting a normal colorless diamond to radioactive particles, heating it to high temperatures and then putting it under strong pressure. In short, it is no longer a natural color.

Diamante Argyle Everglow, 2.11 carati, radiant shaped, Fancy Red diamond
Diamante Argyle Everglow, 2.11 carati, radiant shaped, Fancy Red diamond, Rio Tinto

The value of the Brazilian diamond Moussaieff Red Diamond, of 5.11 carats with a Trillion cut, that is triangular, is also known: it was purchased in 2002 for 8 million dollars (about 5.4 million euros) by the jeweler from whom it takes the name. Baptized with the surname of the owner is also the third place, the Kazanjian Red, discovered in the Licthenburg mine in South Africa: it is 5.05 carats and has an emerald cut. In the past it had been mistaken for a ruby ​​due to its blood red color. It has an adventurous history: during the Second World War it was stolen by the Nazis and had various passages until it reached the hands of the president of Kazanjian Diamonds. The 5.03-carat De Young Red purchased in a real estate sale also suffered an error of assessment: it was mistaken for a garnet for its intense red tending to brown. It is also one of the few diamonds visible to all, as it is exhibited at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington.

Il diamante rosso Kazanjian
The Kazanjian red diamond

In short, red diamonds are so rare that most jewelers, even the most famous ones, have never seen one. Currently, 90 percent of the world’s natural pink and red diamonds come from a single source: the Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia. According to the officials of Rio Tinto, the company that owns the mine, these diamonds are almost impossible to find: the quantity of those mined in a year larger than half a carat is laughable and would fit in the palm of your hand. The best pieces are sold at the Pink Diamond Tender, one of the most important international auctions for this category and in 30 years only nine Fancy Red Argyle have been offered. One of these, 0.75 carats, was heart cut and ring mounted together with another diamond, the 0.71 carat Argyle Celestial in a deep blue gray. The combination of two stones with such a difficult cut makes the ring extraordinary. But the 1.56-carat Argyle Phoenix Fancy Red Diamond is the real star: it sold for more than $ 2 million, the highest price for a diamond produced by the mine. But beware, the value of red diamonds is constantly increasing because there are more and more: the Anglo-Australian multinational has planned to stop production.

Il diamante rosso Moussaieff
The Moussaieff Red Diamond
Diamanti rossi Argyle a forma di cuore e Phoenix taglio brillante
Brilliant-cut Phoenix and heart-shaped Argyle red diamonds

Tre anelli con diamanti Rio Diamond: bianchi, verde, blu e rosso
Three rings with Rio Diamond diamonds: white, green, blue and red

Anello con diamante rosso di 1,38 carati
1.38 carat red diamond ring

The first 15 years of Sylva & Cie

The Sylva & Cie jewels, Maison in Los Angeles founded in 2007 ♦ ︎

Fifteen years old Sylva & Cie, a brand made in Los Angeles, but with a long history behind it. Jewelery is the fruit of the creativity of Sylva Yepremian, born in Lebanon, and her husband, Raffi Yepremian. Both are Armenian origin, and they are the creative minds that have convinced several celebrities to choose their jewels inspired by antique or Art Deco designs, of which the couple is also collector. Gold and stones with a considerable size are the basic ingredients for their jewels.

Mosaic collection yellow gold ring and diamond
Mosaic collection yellow gold ring and diamond

Sylva was born in Lebanon but spent her early years in Paris. At age 16, she and her family moved to Los Angeles. She first worked as artist in painting. But then he heard the recall of origins: Sylva’s father, Jirair Guiragossian, was a jeweler who worked for Cartier in Paris. What other teacher could there be better? Its production includes unique or limited edition pieces: in all four collections per year. It has a well-defined style, which includes stones with asymmetrical facets. And she is very happy with what she did in her life: her favorite song is Je ne regrette rien by Edith Piaf.

Diamond and ruby ring
Diamond and ruby ring
Anello con diamante grezzo ovale
Oval rough diamond ring
Ciondolo con zaffiri viola
Pendant with purple sapphires
Orecchini in oro, diamanti e opale
Earrings in gold, diamonds and opal
Orecchini in oro, diamanti e corallo
Earrings in gold, diamonds and coral
Anello Byblos con citrino ovale e diamanti neri
Byblos ring with oval citrine and black diamonds

The gold of Italy is called Marchisio




The history of Italian jewelery has a name: Marchisio. Although the Turin-based company now works for third parties, it has a story that is worth telling: it even begins in 1649, when Gian Piero Marchisio, working with Joannin Marchisio, was appointed jeweler of the royal family. In 1859 Marchisio Giovanni was born, a sole proprietorship, and the jewelery obtained from the city of Turin the first prestigious 1TO hallmark, which attests to the company’s historical roots. Years later, his descendant, Felice Marchisio, also a goldsmith in Turin, moved to Paris to learn new processing techniques. It is no coincidence that most of the terms that are still used in Italian jewelry are of French origin.

Girocollo in oro messo all'asta da Dorotheum
Girocollo in oro messo all’asta da Dorotheum

But from Paris the Italian jeweler fled due to the siege of the Prussian troops (1870). Back in Turin, he founded Marchisio Bros, which then became the largest and most important jewelery in the city: in 1880 it had over one hundred workers. The history of jewelry, between ups and downs, wars and crises, however, has continued. Until the Second World War, which marked a setback. But in 1968 Giovanni Marchisio & co reopened its doors with the Mattioli family.
Bracciale in oro giallo con piastra decorativa
Bracciale in oro giallo con piastra decorativa

In 2013 a new step: the Richemont Group purchased the historic brand. The Swiss luxury giant, in fact, took over the shares of the Ancient Marchisio Company, acquired by the Mattioli family. Marchisio remained, however, a producer for several major international brands in the sector, including some from Richemont itself (Cartier, Piaget, Buccellati, Van Cleef & Arpels). Luciano Mattioli and his daughter Licia then created a new company, Mattioli. Federico Graglia

Orecchini in oro giallo
Orecchini in oro giallo
Bracciale con oro e diamanti
Bracciale con oro e diamanti
Bracciale in oro
Bracciale in oro
Bracciale con diamanti
Bracciale con diamanti

Bracciali di Marchisio Giovanni
Bracciali di Marchisio Giovanni







Jewels in the shape of a lily of the valley

Lily of the valley, herbaceous plant (Convallaria maialis) of the Convallariacee family. But above all, one of the fragrant flowers of May. And it is no coincidence that the delicate thrush has inspired many jewelers. Here, then, are some jewels that are inspired by lily of the valley: a flower that has unexpected aphrodisiac properties. Yet it is also a flower often associated with marriage ceremonies, because for some it is a symbol of purity and chastity.

Fulco Verdura, spilla in ogiallo e bianco con
Fulco Verdura, spilla in oro giallo e bianco con perle

In fact, when we talk about flowers in jewelry and not only, and we immediately think of roses. But lily of the valley also inspired beautiful objects. In pagan times this flower symbolized happiness and for this reason it was considered a lucky charm, while in the Middle Ages the lily of the valley was also used as an amulet, associated with the celebration of May, the beginning of the month of engagement. But the result of a study conducted some time ago by the University Hospital of Padua is perhaps more surprising: it seems that men, who would have a greater olfactory capacity than the female category, are able to recognize an organic chemical, called bourgeonal, if emanating from women’s skin. And this fragrance, very similar to that of lily of the valley, is one of the factors triggering male attraction.

Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo
Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo

And it is precisely in the Victorian era, with the tradition of sentimental jewels, that the flower becomes one of the most represented motifs with a meaning linked to its era, namely romanticism. Since then more or less all the great jewelers have ventured into the theme and have created more or less realistic brooches, earrings and necklaces inspired by the forest flower. Here is a selection of the most beautiful pieces that all women would like to bring even in December, without being superstitious or looking for a boyfriend. Monica Battistoni

Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo
Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo

Ed è proprio in epoca vittoriana, con la tradizione dei gioielli sentimentali, che il fiore diventa uno dei motivi più rappresentati con un significato però legato alla sua epoca, ossia il romanticismo. Da allora più o meno tutti i grandi gioiellieri si sono cimentati nel tema e hanno creato spille, orecchini e collane più o meno realistiche ispirate al fiore di bosco. Ecco una selezione dei pezzi più belli che tutte le donne vorrebbero portare anche a dicembre, senza essere superstiziose o in cerca di fidanzato. Monica Battistoni

Cartier, spilla anni 50 in platino, diamanti taglio baguette e perle
Cartier, spilla anni 50 in platino, diamanti taglio baguette e perle
Spilla epoca Edoardiana in platino, oro giallo , diamanti e perle
Spilla epoca Edoardiana in platino, oro giallo , diamanti e perle
DellaValle
Michele della Valle, collana con diamanti taglio rotondo e tsavoriti
Suzanne Syz, orecchini in oro bianco e giallo con 18 perle Akoya, 554 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti e 356 smeraldi
Suzanne Syz, orecchini in oro bianco e giallo con 18 perle Akoya, 554 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti e 356 smeraldi
Tiffany, spilla in platino, diamanti e perle
Tiffany, spilla in platino, diamanti e perle
Tiffany, spilla in oro giallo e opale nero
Tiffany, spilla in oro giallo e opale nero
Lalique, orecchini in oro bianco con 76 diamanti, 6 zaffiri gialli, 6 zaffiri rosa, 6 zaffiri arancio, 6 quarzi rosa
Lalique, orecchini in oro bianco con 76 diamanti, 6 zaffiri gialli, 6 zaffiri rosa, 6 zaffiri arancio, 6 quarzi rosa
Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in oro con zaffiri, diamanti e tsavoriti
Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in oro con zaffiri, diamanti e tsavoriti

The bright Hueb

From the center of Brazil, the Hueb brand has conquered the United States and the Middle East with its lively and refined jewelery
Brazil is one of the richest country of gemstones. It is not surprising that from Brazil come designers also with high-level. Like Cristina and Rogério Hueb, who in 1987 founded their Hueb jewelry brand in the city of Uberaba, in the Brazilian state of Minas Gerais, one of the high-density mining areas. But since 1970 the matriarch, Fádua Hueb, had begun selling jewels to his friends, with a success that gave life to the business.

Orecchini Tribal in oro giallo e diamanti
Tribal earrings in yellow gold and diamonds

Today, Hueb’s flagship store is located in downtown Manhattan, in Madison Avenue. As of 2010, the brand has focused on developing the Middle East market in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Bahrain, Kuwait and Doha. In 2012, Hueb opened its first Dubai international retail store. Obviously, in Hueb’s jewelery, precious stones are never missing, first the diamonds. Like in the Luminus collection, which combines a glittering design with a lightweight look.

Anello Bahia in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Bahia ring in 18K gold and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Ring in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Necklace in 18-karat white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Mirage in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Mirage necklace in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, tanzaniti e diamanti
Earrings in 18K white gold, tanzanites and diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Earrings in 18K yellow gold and diamonds
Orecchini Labyrinth in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldi
Labyrinth earrings in 18K white gold, diamonds and emeralds

Ana Khouri, imagination to power

Brazilian fantasy, American concreteness: that’s why they like Ana Khouri jewels ♦

Ana Khouri, born in San Paolo, based in New York, the city design. Brazil is for decades been a hotbed from which come jewelers global quality. And Ana Khouri, the daughter of an engineer and a pianist, has successfully combined the grace of music with mathematical rigor. The result is a mixture of fantasy and simplicity, yet luxurious. Her jewels have been worn by Emma Stone, Lupita Nyong’o, Liberty Ross, Rihanna, Isabeli Fontana, Emma Watson, Alicia Vikander, Miley Cyrus, Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama, Glenn Close, Sara Paulson, Karlie Kloss, Claire Foy, Emily Blunt and Jennifer Lawrence.

Phillipa Diamond ring
Phillipa Diamond ring

Given also that the designer studied sculpture at the Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado in his hometown, it’s simplest to say that its jewels are extremely three-dimensional shapes. Never flat shapes, despite the search for essential forms. In New York, the enterprising young Brazilian has also studied at the Gemological Institute of America then moved to London to graduate from Central Saint Martins. In short, she pocketed the better curriculum for a jeweler. The result, her jewels, are appreciated by a large number of celebrity. You see why in these pictures: earcuff large diamond-studded rings that twist as bent by the wind, earrings from the elusive form of small cones. To mark as a favorite.

Ana Khouri
Ana Khouri
Gold Maia diamond & 18kt yellow and white gold ring
Gold Maia diamond & 18kt yellow and white gold ring
Row ring, con pavé di smeraldi
Row ring, with emerald pavé
Choker in oro 18 carati e smeraldo
Choker in 18K gold and emerald
Row earrings, con pavé di smeraldi
Row earrings, with emerald pavé
Orecchino con pavé di diamanti e smeraldo
Earring with pavé diamonds and emerald

Antonella Sicoli, the future is the past

The charm of ancient jewels comes to life with the artisan expertise of the Florentine Antonella Sicoli. Here are his new old jewels ♦

Antonella Sicoli is a blend of Italian goldsmith craft virtuosity. For two reasons: first, it creates truly original unique pieces. Second, it procures materials that only exist in Italy. For example, ancient bronze Roman coins, embedded in her jewelry from ancient forms. Wow. Moreover, he lives and works in Florence, in center of Italy. Where and how she obtains fragments of Roman bronzes and perhaps Etruscan, ancient coins, ivories and jades is part of the mystery that accompanies the creative process.

Anello da mignolo in oro 18 kt, piccolo bottone in giada, diamante taglio antico
Pinky ring in 18 kt gold, small jade button, old cut diamond

The fact is that his creations are also finished at the Museo degli Argenti in Palazzo Pitti in Florence, and the Contemporary Art Collection of the Regional Council of Tuscany. They are also found on carefully selected online shops where they sell at a price that fluctuates between 2,000 and 3,000 Euros, or directly to his lab (and by appointment). “Every piece I produce has its own history, its own way to become a jewel, one of his stories for as what it is composed is in my hands. The search for materials, travel, reading, passion for life, make every jewel something unique, loved by me and every woman who proudly wore it, “writes Antonella Sicoli of herself.

Anello in oro 18kt, rubino naturale, moneta cinese in bronzo epoca Stati combattenti, Ciotola in terracotta civiltà Valle dell’Indo, fromboli in piombo poca romana
18kt gold ring, natural ruby, Chinese bronze coin from the Warring States era, Indus Valley civilization terracotta bowl, Roman lead slings
Orecchini in oro con ambra del Baltico e piccole monete di epoca romana in bronzo
Gold earrings with Baltic amber and small bronze Roman coins
Orecchini in oro, argento brunito e peridoto
Earrings in gold, burnished silver and peridot
Pendente in giada bianca, oro, argento ossidato, rubini, acciaio
Pendant in white jade, gold, oxidized silver, rubies, steel
Pendente in oro con antica moneta cinese in bronzo del II secolo AC
Gold pendant with an ancient Chinese bronze coin from the 2nd century BC
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