design - Page 2

Ananya and Bea Bongiasca, a bracelet for two




Ananya Malhotra, Indian, studied the world of jewelery in London, where she graduated from Central Saint Martins, but also in the USA at GIA. Also Bea Bongiasca, Italian, graduated with honors in Jewelery Design at Central Saint Martins in London. The two designers are evidently friends if they have decided to collaborate together to create a limited edition bracelet. An unusual idea in the world of jewelry. The jewel is called the Rainbow Chakra Ananya x Bea and a mix of the stylistic of the two creators. The bracelet is made of 9 carat yellow gold, with brilliant and princess cut diamonds, with rainbow enamel.

Il bracciale è realizzato in oro giallo 9 carati, con diamanti taglio brillante e princess , con smalto arcobaleno.
Il bracciale è realizzato in oro giallo 9 carati, con diamanti taglio brillante e princess , con smalto arcobaleno.

Ananya and Bea Bongiasca actually interpret jewelery in a completely different way. The first is inspired, in a modern way, by the great Indian cultural tradition, while Bea Bongiasca, based in Milan, offers jewels with a pop-electric luxury design. To purchase the bracelet, you must register on a waiting list which will close on Sunday 27 November.
Il bracciale di Ananya e Bea Bongiasca nel box
Il bracciale di Ananya e Bea Bongiasca nel box

Il bracciale indossato
Il bracciale indossato







Ileana Makri’s golden Cascade




Her bracelet from the Cascade Collection won the Couture Award 2022 in the Best in Gold Jewelry category. It is an imposing jewel, obviously in 18-karat gold, which is inspired by the shiny jewels of the roaring twenties. It has a square white diamond in the center. The rest of the extensive Cascade collection by Ileana Makri also follows the same style, adding references to the fluidity of water, which meets the geometry that precedes the art deco style. Alongside 18-karat gold and diamonds, jewels are often combined with emeralds, with some variations in rubies and sapphires. Earrings, necklaces and bracelets are the most present shapes in the line, even if there are rings, quite simple.

Orecchini della collezione Cascade in oro 18 carati e smeraldi
Orecchini della collezione Cascade in oro 18 carati e smeraldi

Ileana Makri, a Greek jewelry designer, made her debut with her Maison in Athens in 1996. She has an international profile and her jewels are also sold through the major online platforms. Yet, before becoming a jewelry designer, Ileana Makri graduated in Business Administration. But then she followed her true passion of hers and studied jewelry design at Gia, in Santa Monica, California. In addition to her travels, Ileana continues to draw inspiration from multicultural symbols and their meaning.
Orecchini Frozen Stream in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini Frozen Stream in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti baguette
Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti baguette
Anello Rivulet in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Rivulet in oro giallo e diamanti
Bracciale Waterfall Bridge in oro 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldo
Bracciale Waterfall Bridge in oro 18 carati, diamanti e smeraldo
Collana Waterfall Bridge in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi
Collana Waterfall Bridge in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi

Il bracciale vincitore al Couture Awards 2022 in oro giallo e diamante quadrato al centro
Il bracciale vincitore al Couture Awards 2022 in oro giallo e diamante quadrato al centro







Mosaic cocktail with Antonini




There were several extraordinary things that happened in 2022: from reprehensible events, such as the war in Ukraine, to moments of emotion due to the disappearance of great personalities, but also the exciting new images from space, the (almost) end of covid in many areas of the world, enthusiasm for the protection of the environment. In short, the world is extraordinary, for better or for worse. And jewelry can be extraordinary too. Indeed, if we are talking about Antonini Milano, Maison that has made design its flag, we must speak of Extraordinaire, a name that the creative director Sergio Antonini has provided to his line of high jewelry.

Anello della linea Extraordinaire in oro satinato e diamanti neri
Anello della linea Extraordinaire in oro satinato e diamanti neri

2022 sees the addition of two new pieces to the Extraordinaire line. It is a gold Mosaic cocktail ring with the typical satin finish and a concave surface, which is a classic Antonini shape. The upper surface of the ring is composed of a pavé of black diamonds. A pair of earrings with an elongated shape, like lanceolate leaves curved by the wind, is made with the same materials.
dal vento è composta con gli stessi materiali.

Orecchini della linea Extraordinaire in oro satinato e diamanti bianchi e neri
Orecchini della linea Extraordinaire in oro satinato e diamanti bianchi e neri

Also noteworthy are new pieces from the Anniversary100 collection of fine jewelry. It is a chain necklace and earrings in which gold is combined with black titanium, with a pleasant contrast.

Orecchini in oro e titanio nero
Orecchini in oro e titanio nero

Collana in oro e titanio nero
Collana in oro e titanio nero







The two streets of Sophie Bille Brahe




Sophie Bille Brahe summarizes in itself the characteristics of Nordic design: simple, yet surprising, light despite the dimensions, rigorous without missing the imagination. Well-outlined ideas: on her website you can choose two ways: pearls or diamonds. Stop. But behind the choice restricted to two types of jewelry, there is a vast world.

Orecchino singolo in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti per 1,52 carati VVS
Orecchino singolo in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti per 1,52 carati VVS

Sophie is Danish. She was born in Copenhagen (Denmark), one of the cities with the highest percentage of jewelers. The designer is one of those who started to deal with jewelry early, as a child in a small laboratory where she expressed her alternative bohemian attitude. The designer studied jewelry design at the Royal College of Art in London and trained with master jewelers in Copenhagen. She founded his Maison in 2011. A curious aspect: a great-great-great-grandfather of the designer was the famous sixteenth-century astronomer Tycho Brahe, who discovered the phenomenon of supernovae. And Sophie Bille Brahe often is inspired by the night sky for her collections.

Anello Ocean de Fleurs in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Ocean de Fleurs in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciale Fleur de Tennis in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Bracciale Fleur de Tennis in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Grand Ensemble Ruban in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Grand Ensemble Ruban in oro giallo e diamanti
Collana di perle Grand Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Collana Grand Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini Grande rosette in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce
Orecchini Grande rosette in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce

Orecchino Claudia con perle di acqua dolce su oro 14 carati
Orecchino Claudia con perle di acqua dolce su oro 14 carati







The replicants by Elizabeth Garvin




There is Going on large stones, precious pavé, settings princely. And who, instead, betting everything on an idea. What then is the basis of the design: it’s not important the value of the material, but the beauty of the form. This is the path followed by an American designer named Elizabeth Garvin. She is attracted, she says, by serial nature of industrial objects, but also by the endlessly replicated shapes found in nature. The essential elements of their geometry, reproduced and transformed to become items of jewelery, are the essence of the style of Elizabeth.

Anello della collezione Stripe in oro 18 carati, argento ossidato e quarzo rutilato
Anello della collezione Stripe in oro 18 carati, argento ossidato e quarzo rutilato

Her professional career began after graduating in Arts at New York University in 1986, and after having completed her studies at Parsons School of Design at the Massachusetts College of Art. This explains why the proposal from the designer is in between industry and art to wear. The idea is to create jewelry with noble materials such as silver with some sprinkling of gold, but above all with very original forms. The jewelry is handmade in the New York studio of designers. And often they are capable of surprising for their uniqueness.

Anello della collezione Stripe in oro 18 carati, argento ossidato e diamante rosa di 1,26 carati
Anello della collezione Stripe in oro 18 carati, argento ossidato e diamante rosa di 1,26 carati
Anello con pavé di diamanti, argento ossidato e oro
Anello con pavé di diamanti, argento ossidato e oro
Anello in oro con rubellite e diamanti
Anello in oro con rubellite e diamanti
Elizabeth Garvin
Elizabeth Garvin
Orecchini in argento ossidato, oro, diamanti
Orecchini in argento ossidato, oro, diamanti bianchi e neri
Collezione Cyclone, orecchini in argento ossidato, oro, diamanti
Collezione Cyclone, orecchini in argento ossidato, oro, diamanti

Bracciale con topazio blu e diamanti blu si argento ossidato e oro
Bracciale con topazio blu e diamanti blu si argento ossidato e oro






The new designers of GemGèneve




News for the next edition of GemGèneve scheduled from 3 to 6 November. Nine designers will be present: four are part of the Emerging Talents area and five for New Designers, selected by Nadège Totah. The designers are a permanent presence in the event that includes companies specializing in high quality gems and vintage jewelry: they therefore represent an open window on today’s jewelry and tomorrow’s too.

Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Padiglione di GemGèneve maggio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The work of these designers is displayed in a dedicated space at the heart of GemGenève, a space in which visitors, we hope, will have time and space to study the jewels, to be intrigued, to see and appreciate the new dynamism that is energising jewellery-making today.
Nadège Totah

Wallis Hong, Eternal Butterfly
Wallis Hong, Eternal Butterfly

The four Emerging Talents include Wallis Hong, a Chinese based in Spain, who features miniature sculpture-jewelry made from different materials. They are inspired by nature, marine life, cytology (a discipline that studies the structure and functions of animal and plant cells), botany, religion, mythology. In the same section there is Serendipity Jewelry, France, a brand founded in Paris by Christine Chan in 2017. The designer discovered her passion for stones during a trip to Australia over ten years ago and presents a collection of pieces, combining a concept of respect for nature, respect for freedom and respect for oneself. The third designer is
Vincent Michel, Swiss, with the brand of the same name. He is based in Lausanne and is a travel and mountain enthusiast, from which he draws natural elements are not only a source of inspiration but also his working tools. Finally, Youra Jewelry comes from Saudi Arabia and is a brand based in Riyadh, founded by designer Rabaa Saleh Alangari, who began her journey with a great passion for diamonds, painting, colors and creation.

Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Sean Gilson. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The five who are part of the New Designers area see the return of Sean Gilson, United States, an American goldsmith and designer who personally creates each of his jewels in his studio in Connecticut and in his laboratory in New York City: he will present a novelty series. A debut for GemGèneve is instead that of Leyser, Germany. Thomas’s grandfather operated precious stone mines in Brazil and ensured the supply of rough stones to the lapidary workshops in Idar-Oberstein, thus creating one of the leading companies in the region. Thomas, along with his son Sebastian, went ahead and developed a passion for creating finished jewelry: he produces a luxury collection of high quality fine jewelry and supplies jewelers all over the world.

Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Paola Brussino comes from Italy, an architect and designer from Turin, who has collaborated with major international jewelry brands. After living in Geneva for a long time, she returned to Italy in 2012 and started a path of pure research. Attracted by the creative possibilities offered by the use of new materials, the designer was among the first to use carbon, titanium, zirconium and corian in fine jewelry. Another return is, however, that of Tenzo, one of those jewelers capable of combining art and design, of which we have already spoken on several occasions. Finally, from Thailand comes the creations of Toji Jewelry, which presents a unique collection of colored gemstones, each with a different story, each with a different meaning, which allows them to create jewelry that reveals the hidden splendor of nature.
Paola Brussino, orecchini La Rose de Edith
Paola Brussino, orecchini La Rose de Edith

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com







The modern south of Federico Primiceri




Federico Primiceri, son of Baroque, has brought in the South of Italy the quality jewelery ♦ ︎
There are many designers who have grown up with gold in the blood. Or, better, with precious stones and precious metals at hand, because their parents were goldsmiths. It is part of this patrol Federico Primiceri, a designer who has learned a lot from his goldsmith father in the most baroque city of Italy, Lecce. From the south, Federico moved to the North to refine his vocation, with stages in Valenza and Milan, between design practice and diploma at the Italian Gemological Institute. His work has been pointing straight up, with quality jewelery parading with the event Alchimia delle Formeand with invitations to Istanbul, Moscow, Paris and London.

Orecchini con ametista
Orecchini con ametista

He is eclectic in style, but not only: he attended the first Jewel Music Event in Lecce in 2008 during the Idea & Design exhibition. In short, it is the proof that counts more talent than location, which is more important fantasy than famouses friends, that wins quality than marketing. From a outside position, Primiceri has managed to create jewels that many of his colleagues in Milan or Rome would not dream of doing. And if they dreamed it, perhaps they would not be able to translate the idea in practice.

Anello con ametista
Anello con ametista
Anello in argento 925 a fascia, doppio lato, con diamanti neri e rubini
Anello in argento 925 a fascia, doppio lato, con diamanti neri e rubini
Anello doppio in argento 925 a forma di Pac Man, con diamanti bianchi e neri, zaffiri orange
Anello doppio in argento 925 a forma di Pac Man, con diamanti bianchi e neri, zaffiri orange
Collana con pendente PAC MAN in argento 925 e diamanti
Collana con pendente in argento e diamanti a forma di Pac Man
Anello in argento 925 con quarzo arancione dedicato alla band dei Negramaro
Anello in argento 925 con quarzo arancione dedicato alla band dei Negramaro
Anello in argento e diamanti PacMan
Anello in argento e diamanti PacMan
Collana rigida PacMan con. zaffiri blu, orange, gialli e rubini
Collana rigida PacMan con. zaffiri blu, orange, gialli e rubini






Cyril’s spheres

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New York City is one of the places on Earth with the highest concentration of jewelry designers. Among these is Leila Du Mond, who founded the Cyril brand five years ago. In reality, the designer has expanded the field to jewelry after having experienced her aesthetic rigor in other sectors, such as that of home accessories, signing with her own name. In fact, even the jewels adopt the same minimal style, simple and refined at the same time. The basic idea, according to what Leila describes, is to propose jewels that have drops of light.

Orecchini in oro 14 carati e sfere di quarzo
Orecchini in oro 14 carati e sfere di quarzo

But also they are inspired by museum aesthetics, whatever it is, and by natural history. To achieve this, the brand uses silver and 14 karat gold that surround opalescent spheres of white quartz. Leila Du Mond is a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, she has been selected as the winner of the Elaine Gold Launchpad of Cfda and Accessories Council and of NextNow of Ylang 23.

Collana in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Collana in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Anello Large Ciel in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Anello Large Ciel in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Collana Lucent in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Collana Lucent in oro 14 carati e sfera di quarzo bianco
Orecchini pendenti in oro 14 carati e  quarzo bianco
Orecchini pendenti in oro 14 carati e quarzo bianco
Orecchini in oro 14 carati e quarzo bianco
Orecchini in oro 14 carati e quarzo bianco

Anello in argento e oro con sfera di quarzo
Anello in argento e oro con sfera di quarzo







The good vibrations of Brent Neale Winston




The good vibrations of Brent Neale Winston in New York: high quality jewelry among Hieronymus Bosch and the Sixties ♦ ︎

She has been defined as one of the emerging designers. Trendy she is for sure. Brent Neale Winston designs and creates high quality jewelry in New York, with a light and fun style. Bees, rainbows, grass and flowers are among the subjects of his jewels, which cost on average from 1000 to 12,000 dollars.

Anello in oro 18 carati e diamanti, pezzo unico
Anello in oro 18 carati e diamanti, pezzo unico

Like other designers, Brent Neale fell in love with precious stones and jewels as a child. Born in Baltimore, she graduated from Johns Hopkins University and thanks to the incitement of the jewelry historian Penny Proddow enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she earned a degree in jewelry design.
Anello in oro 18 carati, acquamarina e tsavorite
Anello in oro 18 carati, acquamarina e tsavorite

She then began his career at Kara Ross, in New York, where she became director of jewelery business. About 25 collections later, a husband and three children, here she is with her brand, which has already received a good reception. She says she is inspired by great painters like Hieronymus Bosch, Ellsworth Kelly and David Hockney, but also the good vibrations of the late sixties and early seventies, the hippie period. And the result is pleasant.

Anello in oro 18 carati, topazio blu e smeraldi
Anello in oro 18 carati, topazio blu e smeraldi
Anello Knot in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Knot in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini con malachite intagliata e diamanti
Orecchini con malachite intagliata e diamanti
Orecchini Rainbow in oro e zaffiri colorati
Orecchini Rainbow in oro e zaffiri colorati
Anello chevalier in oro, ametista e zaffiri blu
Anello chevalier in oro, ametista e zaffiri blu

Collana con pendente a fungo in corniola e gemme
Collana con pendente a fungo in corniola e gemme







Jewelry exhibition for the eyes by IED




Jewels for the mind and the eyes. Those on display for two days at the ESH Gallery in Milan (via Forcella 7, on 14 and 15 July, free admission) are the result of the ideas of the graduates from IED Milan. The exhibition is titled Very very precious and includes nine collections for nine research projects by Jewelry Design Ied.

Across the dimension. Collezione di Zhuang Haoyue
Across the dimension. Collezione di Zhuang Haoyue

The contemporary art gallery, in the Tortona district, hosts the research of Italian and international authors between art, design and craftsmanship, in a dialogue between the tradition of decorative arts and contemporary aesthetics. The jewels are the result of the three-year IED course in Jewelry Design: a path that, as the organizers define, embraces the complex scenario of contemporary jewelery with a cultural, technical and design preparation, in a dialogue between two apparently distant realities, the approach personal and experimental and company-oriented design, both essential for future jewelery designers. In other words: they are not jewels designed to be worn, but as a creative expression.
Zhuang Haoyue
Zhuang Haoyue

The pieces on display: Across the dimension: a journey to Eddie’s world, by Zhuang Haoyue, Remember me by Zhang Xiaoyue, Biophilia Awakening by Natalia D’Anna Osas, One / off by Sara Monopoli, God save Gen Z by Vittoria Corvetti, Replicants by Niccolò Geroli, Bones of my being by Vivian Rebecca Morad, My Kumiki Blocks by Ning Helios Tan Kang, Disappearing Salt Lake by Zhang Shuting.

Very very precious
14 July (11 am-9pm)
July 15 (11-19)
ESH Gallery
via Forcella 7
Free entry

Biophilia Awakening. Collezione di Natalia D’Anna Osas
Biophilia Awakening. Collezione di Natalia D’Anna Osas

Collezione Bones of my being di Vivian Rebecca Morad
Collezione Bones of my being di Vivian Rebecca Morad







Caspita what jewels

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The alchemy of Arlène Bonnant and her Caspita, a jewelery house that has the name of an exclamation in Italian. But a refined formula ♦ ︎

First premise for non-Italian readers. The word “caspita” in Dante’s language is an exclamation. Those who pronounce it usually add an exclamation mark: wow! It means more or less: “I’m really impressed with this …”. Arlène Bonnant’s grandfather seems to have often pronounced the word caspita and that is why the designer named Caspita her small jewelery house based in Geneva, Switzerland.

Collana con perle di opale etiope
Collana con perle di opale etiope

Second premise. The story of Arlène Bonnant starts from contemporary art. She is an expert in 20th and 21st century art. She worked for eight years together with Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg, and acquired a deep knowledge of the art market. When Phillips de Pury & Company was acquired by the Lvmh group (which then resold it) Arlène Bonnant worked in the Contemporary Art department. In 2005 he created AB Concepts and Dreams (ABCD), a company that cataloged and ensured the conservation of a collection of 300 art objects.

Collane Vishuddha della collezione Chakra in oro, diamanti, smalto
Collane Vishuddha della collezione Chakra in oro, diamanti, smalto

Among the designer’s first initiatives was the collaboration with Zaha Hadid Architects on a collection that combines innovative design technologies and the highest level of craftsmanship. The result was faceted reticular jewels reminiscent of cellular structures. Each piece has been further shaped by ergonomic considerations. The Skein collection includes rings worked in 18-karat gold, some inlaid with precious stones inside the delicate lattice structure, and launched at the Zaha Hadid Design Gallery in London during the Caspita pop-up store.

Collier Farandole Sahasrara in oro bianco e diamanti
Collier Farandole Sahasrara in oro bianco e diamanti

These premises serve to understand why when Arlène decided to devote herself to jewels she considered them in all respects as works of art. And the sources of inspiration were travels to Greece, Italy, India (above all), Israel and Egypt, painters such as Goya, Mantegna, Bosh, Blake and Caravaggio, as well as a particular sensitivity for the world of spirituality. It is no coincidence that his collections are called Chakras and Ourobouros or Alchemy. Perhaps considering the matter divided into sulfur, mercury and salt is a bit simple. But the designer considers alchemy is a spiritual path, like any other path towards self-improvement. Wow, then it’s a bit like jewelry. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale Chakra in oro giallo 18 carati, 47 spinelli, 49 zaffiri arancioni, 57 zaffiri gialli, 66 tsavoriti, zaffiri blu, 48 ametiste e 224 diamanti
Bracciale Chakra in oro giallo 18 carati, 47 spinelli, 49 zaffiri arancioni, 57 zaffiri gialli, 66 tsavoriti, zaffiri blu, 48 ametiste e 224 diamanti
Collana in oro 18 carati con 18 diamanti, 136 rubini, 98 zaffiri arancioni, 121 zaffiri gialli , 60 tsavoriti , 44 zaffiri blu e 29 ametiste. La chiusura è in oro con 62 diamanti
Collana in oro 18 carati con 18 diamanti, 136 rubini, 98 zaffiri arancioni, 121 zaffiri gialli , 60 tsavoriti , 44 zaffiri blu e 29 ametiste. La chiusura è in oro con 62 diamanti
Anello in oro e diamanti, in collaborazione con Zaha Hadid Architects
Anello in oro e diamanti, in collaborazione con Zaha Hadid Architects
Anello Tourbillon, oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Tourbillon, oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini Gyroscope
Orecchini Gyroscope






 

Alex Jona’s jewels




In Turin the original Alex Jona jewels designed by Tiziana Redavid ♦

Turin is one of the baroque capitals of Italy. The palaces of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries recall the splendors of the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Piedmont and Sardinia. Other times. Baroque palaces today do not house nobility, but design. This, at least, is what happens at Palazzo Balbo di Vinadio. Inside there is a refined setting with Alex Jona’s jewels. Nothing could be further from the stuccos and curls of the Rococo: the jewels of the small Turin Maison are in the spirit of modernity, combining jewels with a classic shape with those of design.

Anello in oro, corallo del Mediterraneo, ametista
Anello in oro, corallo del Mediterraneo, ametista

The brand was founded in 1961 by Giorgio Jona, who left the stock market and decided to import antique silverware, oriental art and precious stones. Today Alex Jona, alongside traditional jewels with more usual shapes, relies on avant-garde designers, such as Tiziana Redavid, coordinated by the founder’s son, Alex. In the name of renewal, the sale has also expanded to the web, with a dedicated site. Alongside the jewels, the Maison also sells silver and selected antiques or oriental art.
Anello in oro rosa, ametista, zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro rosa, ametista, zaffiri rosa

Anello in oro bianco, con tanzanite e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, con tanzanite e diamanti
Bracciale Serpente in oro giallo, smalto e diamanti
Bracciale Serpente in oro giallo, smalto e diamanti
Choker in oro giallo
Choker in oro giallo
Orecchini con diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini con diamanti fancy yellow

Orecchini in oro con giada birmana intagliata
Orecchini in oro con giada birmana intagliata







The winners of the 2022 Couture Design Awards




Every year the Couture in Las Vegas stops with bated breath: who is the winners of the Couture Design Awards? The award ceremony, which this year was decided by a jury composed of Nikos Koulis, Juliet de La Rouchefoucauld, Tanika Winsdom, Diana Schade and Stellene Volandes, is one of the highlights of the event in the capital of Nevada. All the pieces participating in the design competition are exhibited days in advance and everyone wonders who, in the end, will be awarded.

The winners, at the end, are announced during the celebration of the Couture Design Awards on Saturday night. In addition to those indicated by the jury, the community of retailers votes for the three finalists of the Peoples’ Choice Award via SMS. Among the winners, this year there are also two Italian jewelers: Gismondi 1754 and Mariani 1878: both with roots that sink into history, in short.

Best in Diamonds above $ 20,000: Gismondi 1754
Gismondi 1754 was awarded the prize, collected by Massimo Gismondi, creative director and CEO, for his necklace, Raggio di Sole, a unique piece inspired by the early morning sun. The Italian Maison was also a finalist for the People’s Choice Award. Gismondi had already won the Couture Award in 2019 for his necklace from the Essenza Collection from which the earring was also born. The Raggio di Sole series required over 600 hours of work for six months. It is composed of 27.83 carats of pear-cut white diamonds and 16.04 carats of fancy yellow diamonds.The jewel, together with the bracelet and earrings, were completed shortly before Couture. The ring will complete the collection. Raggio di Sole was inspired, in 2020 during the lockdown, one early morning in a chalet in Valtournenche (Alps, Italy) in front of a coffee while the sun rose behind the mountain top. The necklace is his interpretation of the first rays that create a crown behind the mountain as it began to light up the sky.

La collana Raggio di Sole di Gismondi 1754
La collana Raggio di Sole di Gismondi 1754

Best in Diamonds Under $ 20K: Mariani 1878
Mariani has a history that starts from the founder, Camillo Mariani, silversmith and jeweler who from objects for worship has turned into a jeweler known for his innovative ability, as well as for the elegance of his proposals. At the Couture Design Awards he wore a necklace dotted with delicate pear and round cut diamonds. Mariani is also a subscriber to the Las Vegas prize: he has already won in 2017 and last year: a very popular replay.

La collana di Mariani vincitrice del Best in Diamonds under 20.000 dollari
La collana di Mariani vincitrice del Best in Diamonds under 20.000 dollari

Best in gold: Illeana Makri
The Greek designer has chosen an elaborate simplicity, for a bracelet with geometries reminiscent of the ancient friezes of temples, but without easy symbolism. The gold bracelet is closed by a small diamond.

Il bracciale vincitore di Ileana Makri
Il bracciale Cascade di Ileana Makri

Best in bridal: Kavant & Sharart
Husband and wife are the soul of Kavant & Sharart: ideal for winning the Best in Bridal award. The winning jewels, in white gold and diamonds, recall both Art Deco and oriental culture.The two have already won the Couture in the Best in Debuting category in 2016.

I gioielli di Kavant & Sharart
I gioielli di Kavant & Sharart

Best in pearls: Mateo
Matthew Harris, designer of Mateo, was born in Jamaica, raised in Texas, but is based in New York. His jewels can only be original. He started working creating men’s jewelry, but at Couture he proposed elegant feminine earrings.

Orecchini Best in Pearls di Mateo
Orecchini Best in Pearls di Mateo

Best in silver: Vincent Peach
Vincent Peach works in Nashville, the home of country music. But he is inspired by the pleasures that life offers and travel, often with jewelry made of different materials, such as leather, diamonds, pearls and, of course, silver.

Vincent Peach, categoria Best in Silver
Vincent Peach, categoria Best in Silver

Best in Innovative + People’s Choice Award: Silvia Furmanovich
Brazil is a hotbed of sophisticated and precious creativity. One of these is the Sao Paolo designer Silvia Furmanovich, who comes from a family of Italian goldsmiths: her great-grandfather worked for the Vatican. Silvia Furmanovich’s ability to use different materials has made her famous. As for the yellow gold, ruby ​​and bamboo earrings that won the Couture Design Award.

Silvia Furmanovich, Best in Innovative + Peoples Choice: orecchini in seta e oro 18 carati con diamanti, tanzanite e rubellite
Silvia Furmanovich, Best in Innovative + Peoples Choice: orecchini in seta e oro 18 carati con diamanti, tanzanite e rubellite

Best in Haute Couture: Elsa Jin
Chinese designer Elsa Jin amazed everyone with a brooch that comes straight from the Cannes red carpet in the shape of wings. It is a surprising sculpture for its shape and made even more precious by the emerald set in the center.

Spilla con smeraldo di Elsa Jin
Spilla con smeraldo di Elsa Jin

Best in Colored Gems Above $ 20K: Emily P. Wheeler
The American designer previewed her new collection, inspired by her newborn daughter, Bernadette. A necklace with many emerald-cut aquamarines, which form a modern and luxurious choker.

La collana di Emily P. Wheeler premiata nella categoria Best in Colored Gems Above $20K
La collana di Emily P. Wheeler premiata nella categoria Best in Colored Gems Above $20K

Best in Colored Gems Under $ 20K: Sutra Jewels
The Texas-based Maison with roots in India is famous for its ability to juxtapose gems in mesmerizing mosaics. At Couture she wore earrings with white diamonds and pink sapphires.

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri di Sutra
Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri di Sutra

Best in platinum: Retrouvai
The Los Angeles-based Maison led by Kristy Stone uses proven techniques to make modern jewelry. The result is a simple, contemporary necklace of sober elegance.

Retrouvai, collana Best in Platinum
Retrouvai, collana Best in Platinum

Best in Men’s: Barbara Heinrich Studio
Barbara Heinrich, who works in Rochester, New York, started out as an artist and later launched into jewelry. Her necklace with her locket, actually, a woman would gladly wear too.

Best in men's, Barbara Heinrich
Best in men’s, Barbara Heinrich

Best in Debuting: Marie Lichtenberg
Marie designed her first barrel pendant in India, a country that fascinated her as much for the richness of its colors as for its spiritual life and centuries-old tradition of jewelry. This journey transformed her, giving birth to the idea that she would become the Maison Marie Lichtenberg.

Pendente a barilotto in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto, zaffiri, tsavorite di Marie Lichtenberg
Pendente a barilotto in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto, zaffiri, tsavorite di Marie Lichtenberg







Traveling through geometry with Ele Karela

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Born in Athens, raised (professionally) in London: Eléftheria Karela, who founded the Ele Karela brand, is a Greek jewelry designer who loves to innovate. Maybe even amaze. She can. She graduated from Central Saint Martins and has been producing jewelry since 2008. But only with small collections and, preferably, she works with bespoke orders. Her jewels are unique pieces inspired (also) by ancient myths and symbols, which she transforms into stories told through gold, diamonds, but also less precious stones, such as quartz or iolite. However, they are always stones with particular qualities.

Anello in oro 18 carati, diamanti, ametista
Anello in oro 18 carati, diamanti, ametista
Another characteristic aspect of Ele Karela’s jewels is the search for elaborate geometries, which really have the quality of being unique. Necklaces and rings, in particular, are often built with proportions determined by the reflections of the stones, with volumes finding a balance even outside the usual shape. On the other hand, Greek architecture is historically the basis of that with which western cities are built. Finally, a certain new age scent adds character to the jewels, like a spice with a surprising taste.

Anello in oro bianco, giallo e rosa 18 carati, diamanti bianchi e blu, zaffiri, ametiste
Anello in oro bianco, giallo e rosa 18 carati, diamanti bianchi e blu, zaffiri, ametiste
Orecchini Sunrise in oro 18 carati, diamanti, rubini, zaffiri, ametista
Orecchini Sunrise in oro 18 carati, diamanti, rubini, zaffiri, ametista
Anello Tandem in oro 18 carati bianco e giallo, diamanti bianchi e blu, zaffiri, ametista
Anello Tandem in oro 18 carati bianco e giallo, diamanti bianchi e blu, zaffiri, ametista
Anello Opal Princess in oro 18 carati, in oro bianco, giallo e bianco, opale, ametista, diamanti, zaffiri
Anello Opal Princess in oro 18 carati, in oro bianco, giallo e bianco, opale, ametista, diamanti, zaffiri
Orecchini Venus in oro giallo, bianco e rosa, diamanti bianchi, zaffiri blu
Orecchini Venus in oro giallo, bianco e rosa, diamanti bianchi, zaffiri blu

Bracciale in oro biano e giallo, malachite, rubini, diamanti bianchi e blu
Bracciale in oro biano e giallo, malachite, rubini, diamanti bianchi e blu







PdPaola scholarship for Central Saint Martins




Do you want to become a jewelry designer? There is nothing better than courses at Central Saint Martins in London. The course of study, however, is not within the reach of all portfolios. The Catalan brand PdPaola is now coming to the rescue, offering a scholarship program for students on the degree course in Design: Ceramics, Furniture or Jewelery at Central Saint Martins, starting from September 2022. The economic contribution offered by the brand of jewelery is £ 22,945 for the enrollment fee and maintenance during the course of study and is paid on the basis of financial needs and academic merit.

L'interno della Central Saint Martin
L’interno della Central Saint Martin

In addition, there will be the possibility of an internship at the PdPaola office in Barcelona. The deadline for submitting the application is Friday 24 June. «As a value-oriented brand, one of our pillars is the creativity we are committed to promoting inside and outside our company. Furthermore, we are driven and inspired by the connection with others and we feel affinity with any organization that shares our principles ”, they explain in the company. “This is why we decided to collaborate with the prestigious Central Saint Martins, as it embodies the values ​​we represent and works to shape the world through creative action”. At this link more information.
I fratelli Paola e Humbert Sasplugas
I fratelli Paola e Humbert Sasplugas, fondatori di PdPaola

Collana a e orecchini di PadPaola
Collana a e orecchini di PadPaola

Collana in argento placcato oro
Collana in argento placcato oro

Orecchini in argento
Orecchini in argento







The fine Greek titanium of Anastasia Kessaris

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She has a degree in architecture, she worked as an architect in London, eventually becoming a senior interior designer at Harrods. So what could Anastasia Kessaris‘s next step be? Designing jewelry. And it is not strange, because the architect Anastasia is also the daughter of the most famous jeweler in Athens, Costas Kessaris. Anastasia, who married Belgian businessman Thomas Persy three years ago (with a party for 1,358 guests, including Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis), has nevertheless chosen her path. Her jewels, in fact, are in pure minimal-pop style, with great use of titanium.

Orecchini della collezione After Party, in oro giallo 18 carati, titanio e zaffiri
Orecchini della collezione After Party, in oro giallo 18 carati, titanio e zaffiri

Above all, earrings and necklaces follow soft designs, with clean shapes, without being anonymous. The titanium surfaces host small diamonds or precious stones such as tourmalines or tsavorites. But, of course, one of the advantages that titanium offers is the possibility of coloring the metal directly, without having to cover it with enamel. Anastasia Kessaris’s jewels thus present themselves with bold shades, such as violet or intense blue, which with the wavy surfaces of the jewels take on unpredictable shades. Now they are also available on Moda Operandi.
Collezione After Party, orecchini in titanio, oro giallo 18 carati, zaffiri multicolori, tsavoriti
Collezione After Party, orecchini in titanio, oro giallo 18 carati, zaffiri multicolori, tsavoriti

Collezione Lollipops, orecchini con smalto e tormaline
Collezione Lollipops, orecchini con smalto e tormaline
Orecchini Dream-Catcher in titanio e diamanti
Orecchini Dream-Catcher in titanio e diamanti
Orecchini Galactic Swirls in titanio, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini Galactic Swirls in titanio, zaffiri e diamanti
Pendente Geisha Hug in titanio e diamanti
Pendente Geisha Hug in titanio e diamanti
Anello Geisha in titanio e diamanti
Anello Geisha in titanio e diamanti

Anastasia Kessaris
Anastasia Kessaris







Niessing, lord of the rings

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The Bauhaus lives again in Niessing jewelry: the refined simplicity of design copyright.

Germany is the country where he was born Bauhaus. And that rationalist design movement emerged from Walter Gropius and co-workers in the thirties, continues to be a source of inspiration throughout the world and, of course, also in Germany.
So a German brand which has over 140 years of history, in the seventies built his headquarters according to the dictates of the Bauhaus and cultivates a passion for that ingeniously simple design also for his jewelry. Niessing, a company based in Vreden (North Rhine-Westphalia, bordering the Netherlands) is indeed synonymous with design. Its round rings, with a simple diamond stopped within the band of gold is of an exemplary simplicity, but also very difficult to make. And gold is not any yellow metal at 18K.

Niessing Spannring in versione oro giallo e diamante
Niessing Spannring in versione oro giallo e diamante

A refined formula, Aura, allows Niessing to propose a gold that fades in different shades, or that has a color cast from green, pink, yellow, white, red. As in the version of his iconic ring once baptized Lucia. A name that alludes also to the ability to give light, with the brilliant cut diamond in full view, stopped with a sinuous variation of the golden band. Which also in this case is proposed in different shades of color. And that would have liked Gropius too, probably. Or in the Mirage collection, a game of illusions, super light gold and platinum jewelry, which received the German Design Award and the RedDot: Best of the Best: an almost hypnotic design that pays homage to geometry.

Bracciale Colette in oro giallo
Bracciale Colette in oro giallo
Anello Colette in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Colette in oro giallo e diamanti
Anello Colette in oro rosa
Anello Colette in oro rosa
Collana con pendente Wave in oro giallo e diamanti
Collana con pendente Wave in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello Spannring in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Spannring in oro bianco e diamante







Nervous jewels

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The jewelry that reproduce the nerve tissue reconstructed through 3D printing and a complicated algorithm.
In the jewelery every so often overlook new ideas, both as regards the materials, which for the techniques adopted. Today we don’t produce more jewels as they did a century ago, and probably about in one hundred years’ time rings, bracelets and necklaces will be made with still different systems. So do not be surprised to experiments like that of Nervous System, a design studio based in Massachusetts, who has decided to use the new 3D printing technologies and laser cutting with biology. The result is Corollaria collection. It is a set of jewelry that is not noted for its precious workmanship, but because it provides an idea of ​​what could be a part of the future jewelry.

Anello in oro bianco 14 carati e diamanti di laboratorio
Anello in oro bianco 14 carati e diamanti di laboratorio
The shape of these jewelry is inspired by the microscopic cellular structures, reconstructed through the use of a special algorithm. The materials used are brass and a special plastic. The jewelry then have a shape that resembles that of a lace, the cells that form in the human body and biological system. You unromantic? Maybe. But these jewels have an advantage in terms of who sells them: are printed to order, so there are not likely to remain in the drawer. And then, perhaps, they can are loved by Millenials.

Anello di Nervous System indossato
Anello di Nervous System indossato
Anello con diamanti sintetici e oro bianco 14 carati
Anello con diamanti sintetici e oro bianco 14 carati
Orecchini a forma di foglia
Orecchini a forma di foglia
Pendente a forma di foglia
Pendente a forma di foglia







Colors, fairy tales and success of Aisha Baker

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A little mysterious, a little fashionable, certainly successful: Aisha Baker is a Dubai-based jewellery brand, born in 2017. It was founded by the jewelry expert Aisha Baker and the jeweler designer Hoonik Chang. Their jewels, sold in the boutique in London, but also online at a price with various zeros, are handmade in Britain and use very colorful gold and gems, variously inspired by a fairytale world. For example, the enchanted forest.

Anello Masque in oro bianco e diamanti neri
Anello Masque in oro bianco e diamanti neri

Other sources of inspiration are folklore characters, but without forgetting that the jewels will be worn by a woman who lives in the contemporary era. Hoonik Chang, director of design, has an internship with Cartier and study at Hannah Martin School in London. Hoonik also studied design and metalworking in South Korea before moving to London, where in 2015 he won the Theo Fennell award at the BA Jewelery Design Degree Show. The brand also received awards from Cartier and Avakian.

Anello della collezione Origami, in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Anello della collezione Origami, in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Bracciale della collezione Origami, in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Bracciale della collezione Origami, in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Anello Love in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti
Anello Love in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti
Orecchini Love in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti
Orecchini Love in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti
Anello E in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Anello E in oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto
Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Pendente in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti, cristallo di rocca






 

Annette Welander’s Swedish red gold




Gold can take on different colors (as you can read here). But there is one that is associated with a particular country: Swedish red gold. It is an alloy that is found exclusively in Sweden and is loved by Scandinavians for its warm color, which oscillates between pink and golden yellow. And it is also the gold used by Annette Welander, a Swedish design house that offers jewelry made in harmony with the famous Scandinavian design: clean, simple, but original lines. And, in this case, with references to architecture. It is no coincidence: her passion for design, art and architecture derives from her family of Swedish artists and architects, even from the same experiences as her. Her jewels, she explains, are also inspired by so-called Brutalist architecture.

Sequential 5 Arc Ring, in oro rosso e diamanti
Sequential 5 Arc Ring, in oro rosso e diamanti

In Annette Welander’s bio we read that before founding her Maison in 2018, the designer studied History of Art and Visual Studies at the University of Gothenburg and at the IHM Business School (The Institute for Higher Marketing Studies). She continued her education at the Berghs School of Communication in Stockholm, ranked as the third Top Creative Schools in the world, and subsequently worked in communication, branding and design for several companies. But she also devoted herself to painting, sculpture and photography. She discovered the jewels almost by accident, after meeting a Canadian jeweler who had worked at Birks & Sons (Meghan Markle’s favorite brand).
Orecchino W3 in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchino W3 in oro rosa e diamanti

In addition, her team also includes architects and designers, with the aim of combining the cleanliness of the shape with the aesthetics and wearability of the jewels. The Swedish red gold that Annette Welander uses has a seal of approval: a small coat of arms in a clover-shaped shield, often referred to as a cat’s paw, the guarantee seal of an independent control body. In addition, the supply of the metal is monitored: the brand uses gold of sustainable and certified origin. Annette Welander’s jewels are now also distributed by SSENSE, a luxury concept store based in Montreal, Canada.

Bamboo ring in oro rosa, giallo o bianco
Bamboo ring in oro rosa, giallo o bianco
Bracciale in oro rosso con diamanti
Bracciale in oro rosso con diamanti
Anello Continuum in oro rosso e perla di Tahiti
Anello Continuum in oro rosso e perla di Tahiti
Pendente Entwined Heart in oro 18 carati e diamante
Pendente Entwined Heart in oro 18 carati e diamante
Orecchini in oro rosso e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosso e diamanti







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