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Ayva, colors for manager

Published on January 4, 2022

Anello doppio dito in oro 18 carati con diamanti, zaffiri gialli e bianchi, tormalina

The new jewels by Priyanka Kedia, founder of Ayva, queen of the compositions with small gems ♦

Responsible for strategic inventory distribution, implementation of new tools and processes, order management, inventory projections, demand and production. Again: responsible for identifying risky stocks … How can an expert logistics manager turn into a designer who proposes exquisite earrings and rings? You have to ask Priyanka Kedia, founder of Ayva, born and raised in a family of jewelers in Mumbai, India, but became a manager in San Francisco, California. In short, after experiencing the path to success in the business field, in 2015 he decided to follow the call of family traditions.

Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri gialli

The collections, they say, that have an affinity with the European style and Italian design. The result is jewelry that always stand out with colored stones, particularly diamonds next to tourmalines, sapphires of different colors, amethysts. The stones are mounted with nice designs and regular to form light pieces, in which the color form shape of nice earrings, necklaces and rings (there is only one cuff now). Not bad for a woman who until recently was in charge of the efficiency of warehouses.

Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

Pendente in oro 14 carati con diamanti e citrino

Orecchini Lola in oro con diamanti e tormalina verde

Orecchini in oro 14 carati con ametista e diamanti

Anello in oro 14 carati con ametista e quarzo fumé

The thread of Maria Frering’s design

Published on December 31, 2021

/Showroom

Collana in bronzo placcato oro con pietre hawlita, filo di cotone egiziano

Ten years ago, from a very young age, the Brazilian Maria Frering was Dior’s ambassador as a New Generation Girl. Today she has become a fashion jewelry designer, and this it’s no surprise. Maria Frering, who grew up in Rio de Janeiro, is a celebrity known for her beauty. She is the granddaughter of the socialite Carmen Mayrink Veiga and daughter of the actress Antonia Frering, she has four-year-old twins, the result of her marriage to Lucas Câmara. In short, she is a celebrity not only in Brazil, she too because she alternates periods in New York.

Orecchini in bronzo placcato oro ricamato a mano con fili di cotone egiziano

Graduated in economics, Maria Frering immediately discovered the passion for jewelry, which she started making in 2018. Rings, necklaces and earrings are inspired by the slow fashion movement, which promises slower production and enhances the production chain, respecting the environment and culture. For this he involved in the production Coopa-Roca, a social enterprise born in 1981 in the Rocinha favela and which since 2015 has been present in a central area of Rio de Janeiro, where textile artisans from various low-income areas of the city of Rio de Janeiro.

Anello in bronzo con placcatura in oro giallo

The fabric, in fact, is an integral part of the bijoux in plated bronze or silver proposed by the Brazilian brand. Bright colors, geometric designs and a design that looks more Scandinavian than Brazilian make up the style of the Maison. And on the metal the embroidery has developed in a unique technique that adapts to the surface of the jewel.

Anello in bronzo placcato oro con agata bianca, con filo di cotone egiziano blu

Collana in bronzo placcato oro con ametista, filo di cotone egiziano

Orecchini in bronzo placcato oro con avventurina, filo di cotone egiziano

Jewelry and design, who is the owner of the style?

Published on December 27, 2021

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A sinistra, il bracciale Pure Form di David Yurman. A destra, il bracciale Crôissant Dome by Mejuri

To what extent can it be said that a style has been copied? It is a problem that haunts (also) those involved in fashion or jewelry. Of course, it is difficult to prove that a gold chain is an exclusive design. But there are other shapes that become symbolic for a brand, such as the panther by Cartier, the five-lobed flower by Pasquale Bruni, or the Tiffany blue color. Can these iconic shapes be used? American jeweler David Yurman thinks not and has filed a lawsuit in New York City federal court against Canadian jewelry brand Mejuri. The accusation: having copied many of the jewels that characterize the American brand, violating intellectual property rights.

Davi Yurman, a Maison founded in the 1980s by David and Sybil Yurman, has established itself thanks to some jewels with the typical shape of a twisted spiral cable. Although, it must be added, that the same type of jewel has been used by others, for example, by brands such as the Swiss Charriol. David Yurman, however, accuses Mejuri of having reproduced without variations his jewels from the Pure Form and Sculpted Cable collections. In fact, David Yurman and Mejuri’s jewels are almost identical.

So basically, no one can accuse you of copying a pair of gold hoop earrings, but if they are in the shape of a braided cord you could be in trouble. Among other things, the lawsuits for counterfeiting in the world of jewelry are not new. David Yurman herself in recent years has obtained $ 1.5 million thanks to a lawsuit against companies that sold counterfeit jewelry on the web. Now, however, there is a question of style and incorrect behavior at stake. For example, David Yurman hired an influencer to wear his jewelry. And two weeks later Mejuri engaged the same influencer for a social media campaign.

Mejuri co-founded in 2015 by Noura Sakkijha. She was born and raised in Jordan, she immigrated to Canada at 23, where she earned an MBA in industrial engineering. In a few years you have built a company specializing in affordable jewelry. If the success is also to be attributed to a casual use of other people’s ideas, the judge will decide.

Sarah Noor, minimal made in London

Published on December 26, 2021

Showroom

Orecchini in oro 18 carati e diamanti baguette

The minimal, but elegant and colorful jewels of the London Maison Sarah Noor ♦

At just 26 years old, in 2014, the British designer Sarah Alhassan gave birth to her brand, Sarah Noor. She also opened a boutique in London and managed to get accepted in some prestigious online stores. In short, in a few months you have achieved a goal that others reach in years or never. Whatever her secret weapons are for a flash career, it must be noted that Sarah Alhassan has no shortage of skills to present herself on the jewelry market. The design is modern, linear, but without forgetting the charm of colored stones as well as classic diamonds. She herself explained that she starts from the classic jewel models and then makes the lines simpler and more minimal.

Orecchini in oro 14 carati e zaffiri colorati

The two collections of her debut, Pretty Little Things and Pyramid, are still the ones receiving acclaim. The idea is to offer precious jewels, but also suitable for everyday life, thanks to the not too showy character of the design. Lucid, on the other hand, is a capsule collection created with a glass-like resin, set with cubic zirconia stones positioned in a linear design of a circle silhouette, which the designer considers “an exploration of kaleidoscopic elements of a dream world and of natural composition of light “.

Collezione Lucid, orecchini grandi in resina riciclata e zirconia cubica

Collezione Lucid, orecchini medi in resina riciclata e zirconia cubica

Collezione Lucid, orecchini piccoli in resina riciclata e zirconia cubica

Dalben jewels are born on Lake Como and arrive in the USA

Published on December 9, 2021

Rings/Showroom

In Como, an Italian town on the Lake that George Clooney also likes, there is the Dalben atelier which, like the nearby body of water, is very popular with Americans and in generals to the tourists. It is the atelier of Oreste and Laura Dal Ben, who created Dalben Gioielli. The couple designs and makes handmade jewelry with simple but pleasant lines. Oreste Dal Ben is an artist applied to jewelery, while Laura is an architect. They work in a complementary way, drawing from the design school of nearby Milan, but also from the tradition of ancient art, architecture and nature.

It is a jewelry that produces valuable pieces, especially rings, sold at prices that average between 2,000 and 8,000 euros. The design and creation of the jewels including the setting of the stones, all takes place inside the laboratory and this allows a continuous quality control up to the smallest detail. Most of the Dalben jewels are sold in the USA.

Anello in oro rosa con opale australiano

Anello in oro con smeraldo di 3,82 carati

Orecchini a forma di pesci in oro con opale australiano

The new jewelry by Natsuko

Published on November 27, 2021

Argento/Showroom/Rings

Japanese design, sculpture and Milanese avant-garde: it is the mix at the base of Natsuko Toyofuku ︎jewelry ♦

The simple and ingenious design of Japan inspired by a sculptor’s soul. Natsuko Toyofuku, known as Natsu, is a jewelry designer who lives and works in Milan, with a showroom workshop in one of the nightlife streets, Corso Como. Born in Japan, she has lived in Italy since she was a child. Her father, Tomomori Toyofuku, was a great sculptor active in the sixties and seventies, a bridge between the Japanese tradition and the western avant-garde. And the mother, Kazuko, was a painter.

With this imprinting, Natsuko has developed her creativity in jewelry. She use silver and bronze, with the addition of pearls, a classic element of Japanese jewelry, along with enamel, natural stones. But above all, her jewels are distinguished by their unusual shape, sculptor to wear and which does not go unnoticed. Crafted by craftsmen, Natsuko Toyofuku’s jewels turned out to be a shock in the eighties, when the designer started the business. Now, however, they are generally accepted and have won over a wider audience.

The spring of Bettina T’s design

Published on November 22, 2021

Argento/Showroom/Rings

There is a type of jewelry that does not look to the past, but futuristically to the society of the present. This is the story of Bettina T, a brand created by the designer Cinzia Caviglia. The fact that the designer’s ideas were born in Rome, one of the cities with the most history behind it, makes Cinzia Caviglia’s choice to use shapes inspired by common objects, such as the springs used to hang the laundry to dry, even more unusual. Springs are not the only element that is extrapolated from its context to become a jewel. In fact, the Industrial collection also includes other jewels that find their origin, as far as design is concerned, in another area. The jewels are made of silver or gold, in some cases with the addition of small diamonds.

Perhaps this vocation for aesthetic contamination derives from the training of Cinzia Caviglia, who started as a graphic designer, who adds in her bio the inclination to blend apparently distinct subjects, from design to photography, from glass craftsmanship to illustration and to 3D creations. The transmigration into the world of jewelry is due, however, to her work with her mother Bettina in the family jewelry, which she then continued, with the addition of new ideas.

Orecchini nuvolette con perle barocche — Orecchini Nuvolette con perle barocche

The meta-jewels by Regina Gambatesa

Published on November 15, 2021

Showroom

Why limit yourself to considering a jewel as something that is worn over the body, when it can also be something that conceals a meaning within it? If the philosophy can be applied to jewelry, ask Regina Gambatesa. From the depths of Mediterranean Italy (Bari), the designer embarked on a journey through a sort of meta-jewelry. Often, in fact, in Regina Gambatesa’s jewels there are hidden elements ready to refer to other forms, worlds or realities. Maybe a pinch of sand linked to her story, with the teenage years spent in the Middle East, between Turkey, Lebanon and Libya. But, apart from the aspects more related to the mind than to the eyes, the jewels of the Italian designer are above all to be looked at, touched and worn.

Anello Serpenti in oro, smeraldo, diamanti

Beauty as a value, a function of the forms and ornaments that concern the states of the soul.
Queen Gambatesa

Having said all this, the jewels can only be original. The Serpenti collection represents one of the strengths: but, unlike many other jewels inspired by the crawling reptile, the rings, earrings and bracelets of this collection have a way of their own to twist around the fingers and wrists. Regina Gambatesa’s jewels use gold and precious stones, from diamonds to rubies, or colored and semi-precious such as Madeira quartz in the Fior di Loto ring or kunzite. But it is the colored titanium that allows innovative shapes and unprecedented geometries, suited to the designer’s imagination.

Il retro dell'anello in oro e titanio — Il retro dell’anello in oro e titanio

Anello Mandala in oro, titanio e smeraldi

Orecchini in oro e diamanti bianchi e fancy

Anello Mandala in oro, titanio e diamante

The two worlds of G Suen

Published on November 12, 2021

Rings/Showroom

Jing Zhao con orecchino in oro, titanio, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Avant-garde, design, innovation. And, at the same time, roots, tradition, beauty. Between these two banks, as distant as East and West, lies the bridge of G Suen. Founded in London, G Suen is a sculpture jewelry studio, founded by Gearry Suen (the designer) and Jing Zhao (who does everything else). With one goal, to walk beyond the boundaries of form and convention. But, alongside the conceptual aspect, G Suen approaches the aesthetic one. Because the jewels of the small house are original, yes, but also pleasant. And in GemGèneve, where G Suen was present in the space dedicated to designers, the jewels were also admired and appreciated by a long-time jeweler like Fawaz Gruosi.

La co fondatrice di G Suen, Jing Zhao, a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The link between tradition and innovation is achieved with a mix of classic craftsmanship and technology. One example is the age-old technique of jade carving, but guided by virtual reality. The colors of stone and metal, they explain, are selected on very modern standards, such as photographic filters. Alongside stones and gold, titanium in colorful shades is creatively used. The jewels also combine the passion for unusual shapes with the more regular ones found in nature. As for the earrings inspired by the spirals of shells, or the maxi earring in gold, titanium and diamonds that resembles a peach branch, with an appearance that seems to come out of an artistic Chinese watercolor.

Conversation earrings. Legno di sandalo, titanio, diamanti, oro, perle, spinelli, zaffiro padparadscha, smeraldo

But, at the same time, the jewels are also inspired by high fashion sets. To the fabrics and materials that have remained etched in the memory. Or to mythical science fiction stories, such as Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? by Philip K. Dick, the story from which the film Blade Runner was based.

Systematic Sonata Ring. Sandalo, argento e oro 18 carati, diamanti gialli e bianchi, zaffiri verdi e blu, tormaline Paraiba, spinelli rossi, granati, zircone giallo

The Fabric ring imita l'effetto dei drappeggi. Oro 18 carati e titanio, diamanti gialli, marroni e bianchi; tanzanite, spinelli — The Fabric ring imita l’effetto dei drappeggi. Oro 18 carati e titanio, diamanti gialli, marroni e bianchi; tanzanite, spinelli

Seashell earrings. Oro 18 carati e titanio, diamanti gialli, marroni e bianchi, opali, zaffiri, tormaline Paraïba, acquamarina, zirconi blu e gialli, eliodoro e berilli arancioni

GemGèneve returns on May 5th

Published on November 11, 2021

news

Appointment May 5, 2022. GemGenève seems to contradict the difficulties encountered by other fairs dedicated to jewelery. The formula identified by the promoters, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, works. This is indicated not only by the date, already decided, for the fourth edition, but also by the balance sheet of the third GemGèneve (4-7 November) which ended with 2,757 visitors at the Palexpo in Geneva, professional and private buyers, but also an audience of enthusiasts. of jewelry and gems. Half of the visitors (1,065) had already been to GemGèneve in previous editions and returned. Although the impact of the pandemic still had an impact: there were 120 exhibitors from 15 countries, compared to 210 in 2019, also due to the restrictions still in force for travel. It is no coincidence that this has been called a challenging edition.

L'area del Palaexpo di Ginevra che ospita GemGèneve — L’area del Palaexpo di Ginevra che ospita GemGèneve

This Challenging Edition has gone well beyond our expectations. We were counting on the presence of around 2,000 visitors and we are happy to report 2,757 visitors (compared to 3,474 at the 2019 show, i.e. 20.64% fewer in 2021) came to discover the jewels presented at GemGenève. After seeing our visitors’ smiles, I have no doubt that the eagerly awaited emotion of these reunions has also been synonymous with commercial success.
Ronny Totah, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

Alongside the exhibitors of vintage jewelry and high quality gems, the eight designers (Aline Debusigne, Regina Gambatesa, Studio Renn, Atelier Allure, G Suen, Alexandra Jefford, Cora Sheibani, Alexander Tenzo) have found a good success. joined the Designer Vivarium, organized by the jewel historian Vivienne Becker as well as five designers presented in the Emerging Talents section (Pierre d’Alexis, Horowicz Fine Jewelry, Ena Iro, Elena Okutova). The presentations and conferences also had good attendance with 30-40 people in the audience at each presentation: they will soon be available online on the GemGenève digital platform.

Once again, GemGenève has played its cards right, proposing a unique platform for expression, dedicated to the world of coloured stones, exceptional diamonds, pearls, antique and contemporary jewellery, famous designers, and emerging talents. We have had more buyers and international visitors than expected, especially from America and Asia. I should also point out that the buyers present were certainly determined to make new acquisitions and do business.
Thomas Faerber, organizer and co-founder of GemGèneve

Finally, the launch of the Eric Horovitz Foundation should be noted. Partnership with Crea School Geneva for the creation of digital content in millennial mode: development of the Instagram account CreaEyes and three prizes awarded to GemGenève to Pauline Hepner, Head student, to Sulaiman Al Haidar, apprentice at Csp Arts Geneva and Hugo Massy, Student of the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (Eric Horovitz Foundation Award). The next edition, as anticipated, will be held from 5 to 8 May 2022.

The small circles of Liliana Guerreiro

Published on November 1, 2021

Showroom/Rings

Liliana Guerreiro, the pleasure of design in Portugal ♦

Years ago she won the Best Piece of Jewelry Award at the Inhorgenta in Monaco thanks to her special design: an intertwining of threads and tiny circles that form gold and diamond jewelry. But not only. As in the Elementos collection, which uses the element of thread in an innovative way and small rounds that make up a sort of puzzle, or Malha (inspired by traditional nineteenth-century reliquaries), Cheio de Ramo (ironic use of filigree) and Fio , with the gold thread or in gilded silver used in different combinations of thicknesses, materials (gold and silver) and three textures.

Another peculiarity concerns the material it uses: 19-karat gold (instead of the usual 18-karat one), but also completely oxidized silver. Liliana Guerreiro is one of the best known Portuguese jewelry designers. She was born Viana do Castelo, Minho (north of Portugal), a land with a centuries-old history in the production of jewelry. Her work is inspired by one of the most traditional craft techniques, filigree.

Final seven for the designers of Preziosa Young

Published on October 4, 2021

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Zihan Yang, sterling silver, 18K yellow gold, 23.5K gold foil 45 x 55 x 45 mm

Preziosa Young is a competition organized by Lao (Le Arti Orafe Jewelery School) and has been held since 2008. It is an international competition that aims to promote the younger generations and encourage their creativity. The jewels of the seven young artists selected by an international jury for their inventive skills in the materials used, in the techniques used, in the proposal of innovative concepts and designs will now be visible at the Oratory of San Rocco in Padua (Italy) from 9 October until November 7. It is the last stage of the exhibition of the winners of the competition which took place at the Galleria del Palazzo Coveri in Florence and, in January 2021, in Barcelona in the Hannah Gallery.

Each of the selected artists has its own peculiarity, its own specificity, and each has presented a project which shows the originality and quality of the research she is working on. The works they present impeccably interpret the trends and the way of feeling of the contemporary world. Three themes, three common threads under which the pieces on display are brought together: Psychological Jewel, with the works of Chia-Hsien Lin, Dongyi Wu and Zihan Yang; the Hybrid Jewels, by Elwy Schutten and Marie Masson; the Ethical Jewel with the works of Rachael Colley and Jess Tolbert.
Gió Carbone, curator of the exhibition

The jury that selected the works is made up of curators, artists and jewelery critics such as Giovanni Corvaja, Eugenia Gadaleta, Kazumi Nagano, Cóilín O’Dubhghaill, Renzo Pasquale, Carla Riccoboni, Sam Tho Duong.

Chia-Hsien Lin. Smelling Memories - Forest Wearable jewellery, 2019 Gelatine, soap base, silver-plated brass, essential oil — Chia-Hsien Lin. Smelling Memories – Forest Wearable jewellery, 2019 Gelatine, soap base, silver-plated brass, essential oil

The seven artists protagonists of this great traveling exhibition compete for the assignment of two special prizes offered by the school: a three-month stay in Florence as a resident artist, offered by Le Arti Orafe, which this year was not possible to assign due to the restrictive measures resulting from the spread of the pandemic, and a free exhibition space at the Munich fair Inorghenta2021, won by Zihan Yang jewelry designer from China. The other young designers are Elwy Schutten, Dutch, trained in Jewelery design at Maastricht Academy of Fine Arts & Design, Chia-Hsien Lin, Taiwanese jewelry designer, recently graduated from Birmingham City University, Marie Masson, French with a Masters from the National Arts and Design School of Limoges, Jess Tolbert, American who studied Art History in Florence and then specialized in Art and Jewelery at Texas State University, and with a Master’s degree from the University of Illinois.

Rachael Colley. Sha-green Ring, 2019. Denatured citrus fruit peel, sintered aluminium

Finally, Rachael Colley, an English designer who studied 3D Design, Silverware and Jewelery, graduating from Loughborough University, with a Masters in Gold, Silver, Metalworking and Jewelery from the Royal College of Art in London, and Dongyi Wu, another Chinese designer, with studies at the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology and the Rochester Institute of Technology.

Dongyi Wu. Tired1 Necklace, 2019. Gloves, fabric, rubber, cotton, sterling silver, aluminium cans, sewing thread, rubber cord, plastic

Elwy Schutten. Mask or groups? Necklace, 2019. Silver, soapstone, alabaster

Jess Tolbert. Greater-Than Series Necklace, 2019. Fused steel staples

Marie Masson. Cockade 02, Brooch, 2017. Leather, pheasant moulting feathers, hematite, metal

Zihan Yang. D.H. VII Brooch, 2019. Sterling silver, 18K yellow gold, stainless steel (pin)

Sheila Westera’s Precious Nests

Published on September 19, 2021

Rings/Showroom

Anello con occhio di tigre, calcedonio blu e lepidolite rosa in un filo d'oro

She studied Art History in Amsterdam, then she moved to London, where she lives, but she spends a lot of time in the mountains of Switzerland, and she loves Italy. But most of all, Sheila Westera loves nature. In her way. Her jewels, in fact, are dedicated to the natural world through the use of semi-precious stones and a folded and intertwined gold thread that forms a kind of nest around gems that resemble eggs laid on a straw cushion.

rodocrosite rosa lucido grigio metallizzato Hypersthene — Anello con rodocrosite rosa e hypersthene grigia incastonate in un filo d’oro

Before becoming an artist who makes (many) rings and (few) necklaces, Sheila Westera worked in the jewelry industry for many years. The artistic studies and the love for innovative design pushed him to study non-repetitive jewels, with a new style of setting, and the use of sterling silver and 14 or 18 carat gold, which surround semi-precious and semi-precious stones. . The rings are large, showy, it is impossible not to fix the eyes on these nests resting on the fingers. In short, the opposite of the classic diamond ring, which the designer simply considers a status symbol. But she has created minimalist earrings that are easier to wear, especially for those on the go.

Collana girocollo in oro e malachite naturale

Collana con perle, cristallo di rocca, argento

Anello con turchese naturale in un filo d'oro — Anello con turchese naturale in un filo d’oro

Anello con quarzo fumé sfaccettato in un filo d'oro — Anello con quarzo fumé sfaccettato in un filo d’oro

Anello con ametista sfaccettata in un filo d'oro e d'argento brunito — Anello con ametista sfaccettata in un filo d’oro e d’argento brunito

Las Vegas Couture Winners and Finalists

Published on August 31, 2021

news

There are 42 winners (if we count first, also the second and third place finalists) of the 2021 edition of the Couture Design Awards in Las Vegas. In short, a considerable number of participants received recognition. Many Americans, a trio of Italians. Opening the event was the director of Couture and EVP, Emerald, Gannon Brousseau.
In addition to the announcement of the winners and finalists in the 14 design categories, Couture also presented Larry Pelzel, Vice President of Neiman Marcus, with this year’s Cindy Edelstein Award. The annual award is given to a true leader in the industry who is dedicated to the success of designers and brands.

Il Wynn Resort, dove si svolge la premiazione dei Couture Design Awards

Winners and finalists from the 12 main categories are selected by a panel of judges, while participating media and retailers vote for Editors’ Choice and People’s Choice. This year’s judges were Robb Report’s Kareem Rasheed, fashion correspondent Lynn Yaeger, designer Silvia Furmanovich, June Simmons Jewelers ‘Liebe Gamble and Reinhold Jewelers’ Yael Reinhold Lipnik.

Best in Innovative
• 1st place: Studio Renn
• 2nd place: Capolavoro Jewellery
• 3rd place: Persée

Best in Diamonds Below $ 20K
• 1st place: Ondyn
• 2nd place: 64Facets
• 3rd place: Harika

Best in Diamonds Above $ 20K
• 1st place: Sutra
• 2nd place: Bayco
• 3rd place: Oscar Heyman

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti di Sutra

Best in Pearls
• 1st place: Assael
• 2nd place: Rosa Van Parys
• 3rd place: Moksh

Best in Haute Couture
• 1st place: Lotus Arts de Vivre
• 2nd place: Yeprem
• 3rd place: Elsa Jin

Best in Men’s
• 1st place: ArtyA
• 2nd place: Fope
• 3rd place: Jorge Adeler

Best in Silver
• 1st place: Tane Mexico 1942
• 2nd place: Sheryl Lowe
• 3rd place: Onirikka

Bracciale in argento di Tane Mexico 1942

Best in Bridal
• 1st place: Retrouvai
• 2nd place: Busatti
• 3rd place: Campbellian

Best in Colored Gemstones Below $ 20K
• 1st place: Harwell Godfrey
• 2nd place: Meredith Young
• 3rd place: Venyx

Best in Colored Gemstones Above $ 20K
• 1st place: Vram
• 2nd place: Fernando Jorge
• 3rd place: Graziela

Best in Gold
• 1st place: Mariani
• 2nd place: Buddha Mama
• 3rd place: Shimansky

Best in Debuting
• 1st place: Elsa Jin
• 2nd place: Rosa Van Parys
• 3rd place: Almasika

Editors’ Choice
• 1st place: Bayco
• Finalist: Gismondi1754
• Finalist: Vendorafa

People’s Choice
• 1st place: Assael
• Finalist: Gismondi1754
• Finalist: Vendorafa

The best designers: Pierre Sterlé

Published on August 3, 2021

Showroom

Pierre Sterlé, spilla con zaffiri e gemme, anni Sessanta

Great designers to rediscover: the French master Pierre Sterlé ♦

Time ago, Hancocks, the London company specializing in the sale of rare jewels, was in the Tefaf in Maastricht with 88 pieces, including a special necklace: the Pierre Sterlé diamond Ribbon, a jewel made in 1960. The choice is also a recognition for the French jeweler. The necklace, 62.9 carats, has a stylized arch motif, with the ends more thin and diamond baguette cut. Son of a banking family, Pierre Sterlé was born in 1905.

As a boy he lived with an uncle, a jeweler in Paris: so he also was initiated to the craft and debuted in 1934 with his own creation. He worked for Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. The writer Colette loved the work of Sterle and was one of its first customers. During World War it moved to larger premises, in Avenue de l’Opera, near Place Vendome. He also worked for the way of fashion, Dior, Balenciaga or Jean Desses. Pierre Sterlé has earned an international reputation and clientele: from Indian maharajas to the King of Egypt, Farouk, who ordered him a ring for his wife, the Queen Narriman.

Pierre Sterlé’s style is easily recognizable: it is characterized by inspiring themes, artistic treatment and technical mastery. The recurring motifs in his work derive from nature: birds, wings, feathers, animals and various types of flowers. His themes feature asymmetry and a Baroque type of extravagance, contrasting with opulent geometric shapes and arabesques seen in traditional jewelry of the era.

Collana twist a nastro con diamanti taglio brillante e taglio baguette proposta da Hancocks

His reputation was cemented when he won the De Beers Diamond Award, a major achievement in the profession of jewelry, which has won for three consecutive years, in 1953, 1954 and 1955. But not everything went the right way: by Sterlé jewelry has expanded to perfumes, Huit-Huit and 2 Diam, which have been an economic disaster. Despite this, his career continued as a jeweler, but always with little luck since financing point of view (although the family had made a fortune with finance). So in 1976 he had to liquidate the company, and all the material was purchased by Chaumet. It disappeared in 1978, but her jewelry continue to be more popular than ever.

Anello in oro con rubini, diamante color acquamarina

Bracciale in oro comn diamanti e granato

Bracciale di Pierre Sterlé in oro bianco e giallo

Nam Cho, the colors of New York

Published on July 31, 2021

Showroom

Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco con zaffiro blu rovesciato

The colorful, bright and modern jewels of Nam Cho, designer from New York ♦ ︎

In Tibetan Buddhism Nam Cho translates as sky / space dharma, a cycle of practices that is particularly popular in that spiritual discipline. But if you are interested in jewelry, Nam Cho is also the name of a designer based in New York. If you expect the usual, typical curriculum (study by designer, gemology with a diploma at Gia), you will be surprised; none of this: he studied violin, classical music and fine arts. After graduating from the Parsons School of Design, she designed clothing for some fashion brands, also in New York.

Anello con doppia margherita in oro 18 carati, platino e diamanti

Then, from prêt-à-porter fashion, she moved on to accessories and accessories to jewelry. Finally, she decided to open his own business, with great success. Her jewels are modern, but not bizarre, luminous without being dazzling, colorful but not gaudy. Features that have put the Nam Cho brand in the choices of some large online market places.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e e rubini

Bracciale a maglie ottagonali in oro bianco, zaffiri e diamanti

Orecchini a maglia in oro rosa e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco, smeraldi e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri e diamanti

Leyla Abdollahi, the charm of the two worlds

Published on June 29, 2021

Showroom

Anello con diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiri rosa, viola e blu, tanzanite

The jewels of Leyla Abdollahi, winner of the Couture Design Awards ♦

A few years ago she won a special prize: The Best in Debut at Couture at Las Vegas 2017. The wished acknowledgment, however, will not have surprised Leyla Abdollahi, which in London has now a host of passionate admirers. And, perhaps more importantly, she has gained space within the most exclusive e-commerce sites. “My jewel reflects emotions, passions, and desire with a blur of creativity. I start with a concept that then blossoms into an elegant ornament,” she likes to repeat Leyla Abdollahi. It is true that that all-Oriental sensibility, along with Western-style luxury, has produced a mix that is not easily imitable.

Orecchini in oro rodiato nero con tanzanite, zaffiri e diamanti

Leyla Abdollahi has a background related to fine arts, refined with Jewel Design lessons at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. In 2011 Leyla launched her own business and did not have to wait long time to find many admirers. A year later, for example, she won the Jewelery Designer of the Year at the Jewelery Awards 2012 in Great Britain. It was been a trampoline that the designer has used in a right way. Judge for yourself.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti smeraldi — Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi

Collana in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldo

Anello in oro rosa con diamanti, opali e smeraldi

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi

Boaz Kashi, Boho Chic

Published on June 14, 2021

Showroom

The Israeli jewelry designer Boaz Kashi and his Boho Chic collections: irreverence, but luxury ♦

If, by accident, you do not know what Boho Chic means or you’ve forgotten, you can look at the jewelry of Boaz Kashi, a designer who works in Tel Aviv. He defines his Boho Chic collections, basically means a style in which various elements of bohemian and hippy culture come together, in particular, in his jewelery. A definition, which we admit, is not common in jewelery, where designers tend to emphasize the precious aspect rather than the playful side of their production.

Argento ossidato, oro 18 carati, zaffiri, diamanti

But, we must say it, the definition of Boaz Kashi is apt, with oxidized gold and silver, stones that seem to (just seem to be) put in a somewhat casual way. In short, a studied art of improvisation, which actually hides a careful choice. And it can not be that way, since the designer is by no means improvised. Indeed, it is part of a jeweler family that has been active since 1889. In short, that much irreverent is a sharpy choice, not a compulsory road.

Anello con argento, oro 24 carati, filo diamantato

Anello in argento ossidato, oro 24 carati, diamanti

Bracciale in argento ossidato, oro e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti in oro 25 carati, diamanti e zaffiri

The curves of Myrto Anastasopoulou

Published on June 10, 2021

Showroom/Orecchini/Rings

The bold curves and rigorous geometries of Myrto Anastasopoulou, designer in Athens ♦

Myrto Anastasopoulou she is a Greek designer. The country that originated an architecture that is imitated until today and is considered to be the cradle of Western civilization, now is curiously the cradle of a modern design, which has nothing to do with the past. Myrto Anastasopoulou is among the jewelers who have gone through the road of renewal, with sometimes indefinite lines and volumes, amazing curves, bold approaches.

Anello con tormaline e diamanti taglio rosa

Small sculptures that are far removed from the classicity of ancient Fidia master: maybe could be inspired by Anish Kapoor. The other thing you notice right away is a rich, eclectic style. Myrto Anastasopoulou don’t has only one track on which to shows creativity, but plays his music on different instruments. Combine, in other words, different styles: from earrings with tourmaline drops, quite pleasing and all-in-class, with rings of tormented curves.
Jewelry is made of sterling silver, 18k gold, or in combinations of different metals. The designer has her showroom in Athens, in Kolonaki quarter. Rudy Serra

Orecchini con rubini cabochon e diamanti

Anello con smeraldi e diamanti taglio rosa

Alexandra Albini, ethics and heretics

Published on May 28, 2021

bracciale/Showroom/COLLANE

The ethical and heretical jewels of the Milanese designer Alexandra Albini ♦ ︎

Milan is one of the capitals of design and for a week a year it becomes the world capital. It is not strange, therefore, that so many designers can be found in Milan. However, it is’t easy an interior designer becomes a jewelry designer. But that’s what Alexandra Albini chose, who lives and works in Milan, but also has Norwegian blood. From the cold North, Alexandra transmigrated to the Italian city where, in addition to the refinements of design, she also appreciated the Mediterranean culture and atmosphere, although Milan is the least Mediterranean of Italian centers. The style of her jewels, in fact, is also inspired by the jewelry of the ancient populations of the Italian peninsula.

Her unique pieces are handmade in 18 and 22 carat solid gold, using techniques from the distant past.

Even the stones are not cut according to the usual forms, but left almost rough, often with deliberately approximate shapes. To tell the truth, however, the style is not only inspired by the lands of the Mediterranean, but also by the much more exotic ones that the designer has encountered in her travels: Bali, India, Japan. Use only conflict free gold and stones collected with sustainable methods, and this is in the current trend. Instead, she scandalizes the jewelry purists when she confesses that she also uses materials such as plasticine for her projects: a heresy. But the ways of design are endless.

Bracciale in oro bianco con perle, diamanti e tanzanite di 54,39 carati

Gioielli, Jewelry, Joaillerie, Joyas, Jewelen

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The colorful, bright and modern jewels of Nam Cho, designer from New York ♦ ︎

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The jewels of Leyla Abdollahi, winner of the Couture Design Awards ♦

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The Israeli jewelry designer Boaz Kashi and his Boho Chic collections: irreverence, but luxury ♦

The curves of Myrto Anastasopoulou

The bold curves and rigorous geometries of Myrto Anastasopoulou, designer in Athens ♦

Alexandra Albini, ethics and heretics

The ethical and heretical jewels of the Milanese designer Alexandra Albini ♦ ︎

Her unique pieces are handmade in 18 and 22 carat solid gold, using techniques from the distant past.