The September 2024 edition of Milano Fashion&Jewels will still take place at the Rho Fair from Saturday 14th to Tuesday 17th. On Saturday, visitor entry will be by invitation only. Furthermore, the days from 15th to 17th (Sunday-Tuesday) will coincide with Micam Milano, International Footwear Exhibition, Mipel International Leather Goods and Fashion Accessories Exhibition.
In three days, in addition to the opening on Saturday dedicated to exclusive entry with invitation from the exhibitors, it will thus be possible to better concentrate all the activities and special events of the event, offering visitors, buyers and journalists present, a very aimed at knowing and appreciating the potential of Milano Fashion&Jewels. With a view to optimizing visiting opportunities, a partial overlap is also expected in September (Tuesday 17th) with Lineapelle, the international exhibition of leather, accessories, components and fabrics, scheduled for 17th to 20th February 2024.
Laurent Gandini’s twisted jewels
Torsade, collection signed by Laurent Gandini, is one of the typical elements of Baroque architecture. Just think of the columns surrounding the altar inside St. Peter’s Basilica, designed by Bernini in the first half of the seventeenth century. But the twist is an element that is also well suited to jewelry, for example with the use of intertwined gold threads.
And also in the Torsade collection of the Milanese jeweler there are edges in 9 carat rose gold that form an endless spiral and that enclose natural stones of different colors. For example, amethyst, prasiolite, blue London topaz, square or octagonal cut, are surrounded by a twisted gold motif.
There is little information about Laurent Gandini. He apparently studied medieval history at university, but then he chose to be a jewelry designer. He worked for Missoni, but in 1990 he went on his own and launched his range of jewelry made in Milan. It is inspired by popular tradition motifs, such as ex-votos, but also by architectural styles, such as the rose windows of medieval Lombard churches. I expect him not surprising given his youth studies.
In 2017 it won the Design Couture Awards in Las Vegas in the People’s choise category. And in 2021 Mariani 1878 did it again, this time in the Best in Gold category. The Maison based in Monza, a town a stone’s throw from Milan, is preparing to celebrate 150 years of a life full of awards, which testify to a goldsmith’s skill across the board. The previous prize, for example, was awarded thanks to Pon Pon, a three-dimensional drop pendant with 27 carats of very high quality diamonds. in the jewel each diamond was set individually and inserted in a sort of network that surrounds the central solitaire.
A jewel, the one presented at the Couture, which seems to have also enticed Melania Trump, at the time first lady with domicile in the White House. On the other hand, Mariani jewels in the US have also convinced celebrities Sylvester Stallone and Denzel Washington, in the mood for gifts to their partners.
Four years later, however, it was been a pair of long earrings with a burnished gold and diamond link that convinced the jury. The Maison, as its name indicates, was founded in 1878 and is managed by the brothers Carlo and Federico Mariani, graduates in economics and masters in gemology, under the guidance of their father Giuseppe Mariani, direct descendant of the founder Camillo Mariani.
Pomellato high jewelry inspired by Milan
Born in 1967, at the same time as the success of the great Italian fashion houses, the Milanese Pomellato has climbed the steps of success by bringing the concept of prêt-à-porter into jewelry. Luxurious, yet understated. Design, but without exaggerating. Simple shapes but not simplistic. Jewels that immediately appealed to the Milanese ladies and, later, to those of other cities. over the years the ability to interpret a fashion without excesses has crossed the Italian borders in parallel with the identification of Milan as one of the world capitals of design. Pomellato was bought by the French group Kering about ten years ago for this reason.
Something has changed since then. Pomellato, thanks to the thrust of the Parisian luxury giant, has been brought to international markets and, in part, has added to its sobriety an increasingly marked flavor of high-end jewels. Now the creative director, Vincenzo Cataldo, has decided to combine the high jewelery line, introduced three years ago, with the echo of the brand’s roots. For this reason, the new collection is inspired by Milan.
The pieces in the range, which combine precious stones with design tradition, are named after places known to tourists too, such as the Duomo (the neo-Gothic cathedral) or the city’s Castle, but also to the most modern skyscrapers. The collection consists of four lines: Vertical Landscapes, Contemporary Heritage, Creativity on Stage and Terrazza Duomo. One of the most striking pieces is probably the Castello necklace, made up of pink gold plates connected by links studded with diamonds of different shapes: over 28 carats of brilliant, baguette, princess and round cut gems, plus five rubellites for 29 carats. A chain, attached to the choker is removable.
A stage at the opera for Schreiber
Milan, the capital of design. But also of jewelry stores: there are some, like Schreiber, with a long and pleasant tradition, which continues to renew ♦
Simplicity is the antechamber of elegance, and the good taste is in the next room. Schreiber, from longtime Milanese jeweler (the third generation, with Giacomo and Federico) has not problems to support the silver with enamel with classic collections in gold and precious stones.
The jewels made with the least expensive silver, though, do not forget the daisy, the symbol of the jewelry that was founded in 1948 and now operates again in the center, in via Borgospesso. In perfect Milanese style, the jeweler offers a luxury not scream, although don’t has limits in value elements, such as the gems selected by the founder’s son, Giacomo, who after graduating from the Gia, personally chooses the stones to be used for the collections. The style is one that combines modernity with classic dedication to luxury: gold, often white, with alternating stones, often mounted in the classical form daisy. In short, jewelry that are perfect for a premiere at the Teatro alla Scala.
Brusi and the asymmetric nature
The jewels of the small Milanese Maison Brusi, founded in 1930 ♦
Brusi is part of the many stories of Italian jewelry. A story that began in Milan in 1920, when the young Pietro Codari, a young goldsmith, started his business and opened a laboratory. The story continued: in 1970 his son Paolo inherited his laboratory and profession. Over time the company has expanded and has refined its vocation. Today, Paolo, Andrea and Simone, Paolo Codari’s three children, work in the family business and are responsible for the creative, financial and commercial management of Brusi.
The company, located in a historic area of the city, between the Monumental Cemetery of Milan and the Chinese quarter, offers good quality pieces, based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. Rings with champagne diamond pavé and precious stones such as tanzanite are the workhorses. Always with the style of «almost symmetry». That is, that difference from the perfect geometric specularity that is often found in nature. The goal is to present jewelry in harmony with nature, thanks to this natural asymmetry. Subtle but interesting concept.
China in Milan with Michela Bruni Reichlin
The jewels of Michela Bruni Reichlin, the Milanese designer with a Monte Napoleone style ♦
Daughter of a former ambassador to Beijing, with a prominent family behind, wife of a designer who works in New York (Riccardo Gambaccini): Michela Bruni Reichlin designs jewelry and sells them in his boutique in Milan. It is not just a simple street: it’s Via Monte Napoleone, one of the world’s luxury shopping streets. But the jewels of Michela Bruni Reichlin also have another aspect that distinguishes them: they are between East and West, the result of many trips to China in the period (late nineties) in which the father, Paolo Bruni, represented Italy. The experience in China is also the basis of some of the stylistic choices: for example, the use of jade, but also some of iconographic motifs, such as dragons or masks. It is not, however, a jewelry store that mimics an ethnic style, even though he loves the combination of semi-precious stones such as jade, agate, coral, onyx and turquoise with gold and diamonds.
In short, if she were a chef, the designer would proposes a fusion menu, with large variations: there are jewels that can be assimilated to luxury jewelery, up to those proposed to several thousand euro. Another aspect to be emphasized: all the earrings are made of two parts, an upper and a pendant. They are interchangeable jewelry, so as to multiply the combinations. Basically, if you buy two pieces if they get four. An optional that is appreciated, and not only by Milanese customers.
The dates of the next Milano Fashion&Jewels
The next edition of Milano Fashion&Jewels, an event dedicated to fashion accessories, clothing and jewellery, will be held from Sunday 18th to Wednesday 21st February 2024 at Fieramilano (Rho). The date of the second appointment has also been set: the September edition will take place from Sunday 15th to Wednesday 18th. The new weekly frequency of the event, according to the organizing company (fieramilano), has the aim of intercepting a broader and international target of visitors at the in order to maximize business opportunities. National and international buyers will thus be able to add the Milano Fashion&Jewels event among the Fashion Week events.
At the same time, Micam Milano, Mipel and The One Milano will be held, again in the fair spaces in Rho, with partial overlap with Lineapelle. In the September 2023 edition, over 42,273 professional operators from 129 countries were able to discover the collections of 2000 brands.
The Istanboulli dream
Since he was a child in Aleppo, Krikor Istanboulli has been interested in the goldsmith’s art. But his life led him to focus on the trade of precious stones: he began to trade gold and stones between East and West. Arrived in Italy he founded Art.Or, while his brother Arturo created another company, Krisonia, which is a portmanteau between his father’s name, Krikor, and his mother’s, Sonia. The love for jewels, however, did not abandon him and, having established his base in Milan, he founded Istanboulli Gioielli. Given his profession, he was able to supply his Maison with precious stones and gold capable of satisfying even a mahraja. Although he continues to lead the wholesale of precious stones, he has therefore developed a brand that uses the best materials.
Directing the flow of diamonds, rubies and emeralds is his son Vace, who graduated from GIA. In order not to miss anything, he has also become an expert in pearls, after spending six months working with an Akoya and South Sea wholesaler. He also spent some time in Antwerp, the capital of diamonds. In short, no improvisation, they are professionals here. Valuable help also comes from Zarmine, his daughter, who joined the company in 2003. She does marketing. In short, the work of the Istanboulli family is at the top and now their manufacturing and wholesale companies are among the largest in Italy.
Busatti in Milan is a historic name in jewelry. It has now doubled. A branch of the family has decided to focus decisively on research and innovation and has created its own brand: Busatti 1947. After a few months of life it already boasts a prestigious recognition: second place in the Best in Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail category at Couture Design Awards. Merit, precisely, of a decisive push towards a strong design and a choice of materials that is unusual in many respects. Behind all this are the brothers Lalla and Davide Busatti. The family history goes back to when the grandfather, Antonio Busatti, began traveling to Japan after the Second World War to buy pearls.
His son, Luigi, continued the business with gems. Lalla (designer) and Davide Busatti (who selects the gems) represent the third generation, who have decided to introduce jewels with their own brand to the precious stones trading business. But, as mentioned, putting a lot of innovation into it. For example, in introducing unusual materials, such as carbon fiber to make a super resistant resin, which is combined with gold and diamonds or cacholong. The high-end jewels have already been presented at the main international jewelery fairs, from Las Vegas to Dubai, Geneva and Hong Kong.
Piero Milano without borders
Who knows why there are jewelers who manage to build a legend around their collections and others, like the Piedmontese brand Piero Milano, who are just as good, but are less bold in communicating it. Sometimes marketing strategies are a little mysterious. Just as it is hard to understand that a brand like Piero Milano is appreciated in stores abroad, has many admirers, but has less recognition in the collective image.
Yet the Valencian company founded half a century ago by Piero Milano and Luigi Benzi has nothing to envy to many other Maisons that enjoy (sometimes undeserved) celebrity. All right, Piero Milano boasts a good market success, thanks to the ability to interpret the classic jewel, as is the tradition of the goldsmiths of that Piedmontese province. Gold, platinum, diamonds, precious and semi-precious stones: nothing is missing in the vast catalog of proposals, ranging from high jewelery to easy to wear.
Collector’s watches at Cambi’s auction
Charmed watches for collectors: the Milanese Cambi Casa d’Aste is organizing the sale. The sale is scheduled for Thursday 15 June, in the via San Marco headquarters at 3.00 pm. Up for auction is a collection of unique pieces made by international brands such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, along with a number of independent brands.
Among the top lots there is a neovintage monopusher chronograph made in platinum around 1991 by Daniel Roth with a limited edition of only 16 pieces: it has a dial with satin and guilloché workmanship, Roman numerals and visible caseback (Estimate: 25,000 – 50,000 euros). Another prominent piece is a rare Rolex sports Submariner model from around 1957, in steel with leather strap, glossy black gilt dial, radium buckshot, patent oversized crown, never polished steel case, a rotating bezel with red triangle to signal the at 12. (Estimate: 50,000 – 80,000 euros).
There is also a Royal Oak Jumbo D Series from around 1979, produced by Audemars Piguet in stainless steel, and which belonged to the Austrian former Formula One driver Gerard Bergher, winner of ten Grands Prix. The watch has an octagonal case, a Petit Tapisserie blue dial and is accompanied by the original box and guarantee (Estimate: 35,000 – 50,000 euros). Also noteworthy is a rare chronograph with two counters with push buttons signed Omega, Chrono 33.3 model, which stands out for its three-tone gray Lemrich dial, Roman numeral hour digits, manual winding caliber 33.3 and stainless steel case. steel with waterproof screw-down caseback. (Estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 euros).
Finally, another Rolex, the coveted Cosmograph Daytona made in steel around 1965 with an extraordinary Bakelite bezel and millerighe screw-down pushers, a silver Grené dial and contrasting black counters. (Estimate: 55,000 – 80,000 euros).
Author film for the Essenziale by Atelier VM
Jewelery and art-house cinema. The Milanese brand Atelier VM has signed a collaboration with the directors Alberto Caffarelli and Matteo Erenbourg of the Alterazioni Video collective. Objective: to make a film in five episodes L’Essenziale, Welded Love Stories. The link with auteur cinema concerns the selection at the Milan Fashion Film Festival of the video, which according to the authors is a tribute to Jean Luc Godard, the French avant-garde director, one of the prominent names of the Nouvelle Vague who recently passed away. The directors have decided to reproduce some cult scenes from his films. The Essential, on the other hand, is the jewel-symbol of Atelier VM.
The jewels in the videos are found on the wrists of two women of different generations, probably a grandmother with her granddaughter, while they wash their hands or exchange a caress, or in the arms of two friends (perhaps lovers?) while they read, play and they laze on the terrace, and again on the bodies of two lovers waking up, on the hands of three bewildered friends at the bar and, finally, worn by a girl who lets herself go in a wild and liberating dance.
A store in Milan for PdPaola
PdPaola’s long march started eight years ago from Barcelona and is now making a stop in Milan. The brand founded by brothers Paola and Humbert Sasplugas has opened a single-brand store in the fastest growing Italian city. It is located in Corso Vercelli 4, one of the major shopping streets. The shop is on two floors and adopts soft colours, floating shelves and circular mirrors. Naturally, the store presents the brand’s novelties and its signature collections such as Letters, Charms and Zodiac, as well as the line of 18-karat gold and synthetic diamond jewelry.
PdPaola already has stores in major Spanish cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, Bilbao, San Sebastián and Palma de Mallorca, as well as London, Puerto Rico, Lima and Riyadh. It recently opened new shop-in-shops in the Spanish luxury department store chain El Corte Inglés. The brand’s jewels are available in 2000 points of sale and in a dozen international markets, including 50 in the United States.
Many jewels up for auction with Cambi
Many quality jewels, from famous brands: there are almost 400 lots that make up the Fine Jewels catalog of the Cambi Auction House. The sale is scheduled for Wednesday 17 May from 11.00 in the Milan office (via San Marco 22, Milan). In the first round of the auction (lots 1/98) period jewels are the protagonists: among the most interesting objects stand out a collection of corals from various periods and origins, a parure of shell cameos depicting famous Italian poets and classical divinities with original case (estimate: 6,000-8,000 euros), and a micromosaic bracelet with views of Rome (9,000-11,000).
In the second round (lots 99/402) contemporary jewels are on sale, such as the choker from the Serpenti collection by Bulgari (40,000-60,000), a bracelet with amethyst and diamonds by Michele della Valle (6,000-7,000), a convertible diamond sautoir in necklace and bracelets (30,000-40,000) and a bracelet from the Panthère collection by Cartier (10,000-15,000).
Among the top lots are a refined tiara in Colombian diamonds and emeralds (20,000-25,000), a ring with a Colombian emerald of approximately 10 carats (50,000-60,000), a brilliant-cut diamond of 3.48 carats (50,000-60,000), a ring with Kashmir sapphire (60,000-80,000) and a brilliant cut diamond of 13.39 carats (70,000-90,000).
Contemporary Jewelry returns to the Rossini Gallery
The Milan Design Week, the Fuorisalone and the Salone del Mobile and the now traditional exhibition-contest of the Galleria Rossini dedicated to contemporary jewelery are back. From 15 April to 6 May the finalists of the second edition of the Contemporary Jewelery Contest will be on stage, with the exhibition of over 60 jewels by artists from Italy and abroad, in collaboration with the curators Marina Chiocchetta and Sonia Patrizia Catena. As always, these are jewels-works, unique pieces, made with precious or common materials.
On display are the jewels of Thomas Ayers Jewellery, Bodyfurnitures of Gian Luca Bartellone, Frederic Byron Upcycling Phenomenon, Emanuele Cannoletta, Clara D’Onofrio, Ellence, Tami Eyal, Mgioielli of Magda Ferrari, Alessandra Filippelli, Patrizia J., Vanessa Kubach, Melania La Via Textile Art Studio, Mariagioia Maffucci, Elisabetta Nevola unconventional porcelain, Laura Sala, Renata Shaikhislamova Atelier Inter Nos, Tabitha Sowden, Cristian Visentin, Laura Visentin Contemporary Jewelry.
The finalists were chosen by two juries, one internal to the gallery and one external, made up of curators, art experts, teachers and designers. The winners, announced on Saturday 15 April, will be awarded a Special Prize which includes the possibility of a personal exhibition in the Rossini Gallery, the opportunity to exhibit at the Bijou Museum in Casalmaggiore, at the Spazio Heart in Vimercate and at the Spazio E in Ghemme. Also on display are the artist’s jewels of Claudia Marchioni, winner of the Rossini Prize, proclaimed during the opening night of Redefining Jewellery, a project that has reached its eighth edition and of which the gallery has been a partner since 2012.
Contemporary jewel
Rossini Gallery
Viale Monte Nero, 58, 20135 Milan
From Tuesday to Saturday 10.00 -19.00
Atelier VM chose Errani Studio
Errani Studio, the Milanese communication agency, will take care of the world of media for Atelier VM, a brand born in 1998 in Milan on the initiative of Marta Caffarelli and Viola Naj Oleari. Milestones in the growth of Atelier VM include the first orders from Barneys New York and the opening of the boutique in Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, Milan. In 2007 the two creators moved to via Cesare Correnti, in the Cinque Vie district, a more commercial context where they consolidate the relationship with the territory.
L’Essenziale is the name of the bracelet born in 2014 and in 2015 Atelier VM opened the first corner in France in the Le Bon Marché department store in Paris. Then came the second flagship store in Milan in the Brera area, a prestigious store in London in the historic Liberty department store, three corners in the La Rinascente department store in Rome, Turin and Milan and at Nordstrom in New York. In 2020, however, the brand launched its own online store and in 2022 it opened two corners in La Rinascente Florence and Cagliari.
Art and jewels with the Club degli Orafi at miart
Gold, jewels and art. The bond is tight. This is underlined by the participation of the Club degli Orafi Italia, supported by the governmental agency Ice, at Miart, the international fair of modern and contemporary art which takes place in Milan from 14 to 16 April 2023 in the space of Allianz MiCo, the largest congress center of Europe. Participation takes the form of the Double Face exhibition, which displays the artist’s jewels of eight members of the Club, curated by Alba Cappellieri.
The Double Face is not just a metaphor or a narrative device, but an opportunity to investigate and reflect on the double capacity of the jewels on display: precious objects, but also an expression of creativity, innovation and experimentation. From Titian to Anish Kapoor, from Salvador Dali to Cindy Sherman, from Jan Vermeer to Claes Oldenburg and again Giuseppe Penone, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Marina Abramovic: there are numerous artists who have explored and investigated diplopia as a reflection on identity in all ages but also on the invisible, the spiritual, illusions or shadows.
For this reason, the works have been selected for their dual identities, with the work of artists such as Giò Pomodoro, who created the jewels for Cesari and UnoaErre, and Sergio Fermariello, author of the bracelet for de’Nobili, who here interpreted their respective research in the jewel medium with results of great interest and quality, the Puzzle Arlecchino earrings by Mattioli inspired by Pointillisme and the Carnival of Mirò, the creations by Vhernier, which refer to the elegant and soft shapes of the sculptures by Constantin Brancusi, Max Bill or Barbara Hepworth , or like the transformable necklace by Alfredo Correnti, inspired by the sinuosity of Art Nouveau. They are jewels that explore artistic experimentation, as in the Wave bracelet by Angeletti where the millenary tradition of jewelery meets the innovation of new materials or as in the coral skull by Liverino which is transformed into a sculpture.
Diamonds and jewels up for auction with Bolaffi
About 500 lots with jewels from the nineteenth century to the present day and very diversified auction bases. This is what is included in the catalog of the spring auction of jewelery by Aste Bolaffi on March 28, scheduled in Milan, at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (via Andegari 9), while on March 29 it will be in live internet mode on the Aste Bolaffi. www.astebolaffi The sale is preceded by the exhibition open to the public from Friday 24 March until the day of the auction (Sunday excluded) at the Bolaffi headquarters (via Manzoni 7).
The selection of diamonds includes the top lots of the sale, including an unmounted 9-carat diamond, F color, VVS2 clarity, accompanied by a Gia certificate (lot 298, starting price 260,000 euros) and a diamond necklace of 36 total carats of exceptional color and purity (lot 297, base 65,000 euros). Also in the catalog are Tiffany, Bulgari, Cartier and Pomellato jewels and an interesting collection by Orisa Torino from the 1940s to the 1960s.
In Milan art and jewels by Vasiliki Merianou
Jewels and art, sculpture and bijoux: the marriage is destined to continue. In Milan, the Rossini Gallery is specialized in periodically proposing the work of designers, artists and creatives who engage in the creation of jewels. It is the turn of the Greek artist Vasiliki Merianou (alias Lokta Art) with the Paramonas exhibition (March 23 – April), inspired by the western coast of the island of Corfu and, in particular, by the beach of Paramonas. Vasiliki Merianou won in 2022, the first prize in the 1st edition Contemporary Jewelery competition, organized by the Rossini Gallery. She now exhibits over 30 creations, including jewels and micro sculptures, in this personal exhibition.
Vasiliki Merianou, founder of the Lokta Art brand, who lives and works in Switzerland, offers jewels with defined archaic and organic shapes, with earthy shades such as red, brown or beige, combined with cold tones such as green and blue. The materials used are the most varied: stones, wood, string and paper, poor and heterogeneous elements. On the other hand they are artistic creations.
Rossini Gallery
Viale Monte Nero 58, Milan
from Thursday 23 March to 7 April 2023
times: from Tuesday to Saturday 10.00 – 19.00