gioielleria - Page 2

Nature seen through Nicholas Varney’s eyes

The jewels of great design by Nicholas Varney, one of the top jewels of the moment ♦

Among the designers who in recent years have reached quotations at the top there is Nicholas Varney. Being born in a rich environment, also from an aesthetic point of view, it meant something in his training. The father of Nicholas, in fact, is the owner of Dorothy Draper, who is an interior designer company in New York considered very anti-minimalist. He, however, decided to break away from the family and living in Palm Beach. But the taste for the richness of the elements that make up something, remained.

Organic forms, like fish and plants, but also abstract and geometric shapes characterize its jewels.

Set di orecchini e spilla a forma di nespola in oro e diamanti fancy
Set of earrings and medlar-shaped brooch in gold and fancy diamonds

He do not works about environments, luxurious homes of wealthy Americans, but he is dedicated to the richness as composite jewelry, with the choice of unusual precious and semi precious stones. To be clear: her jewelry can cost several tens of thousands of dollars. They are, in short, for an audience of connoisseurs, who loves the colors, the combinations and metaphors. One of favorite subject of Nicholas Varney is the sea, but also the waters of the Mississippi River, Colorado. Surrounded for years by floral wallpaper and plush furnishings, also he has that typically American taste to mix a bit ‘styles. Eclecticism? It depends on your point of view. Here are some examples of his work.

Orecchini in oro giallo e cacholong
Earrings in yellow gold and cacholong
Anello in oro giallo e acquamarina
Yellow gold and aquamarine ring
Anello in legno, oro e acquamarina
Wood, gold and aquamarine ring
Anello con smeraldo e diamanti
Emerald and diamond ring
Anelli con perle naturali di colore diverso
Rings with natural pearls of different colors
Orecchini con perle e diamanti
Earrings with pearls and diamonds 

Oroarezzo renews the spaces

New exhibition layout for Oroarezzo, the fair organized by the Italian Exhibition Group dedicated to companies in the gold, silver and Made in Italy jewelery sector (Arezzo Fiere e Congressi from 13 to 16 May). Ieg has rethought the exhibition itinerary, which will be centered on itineraries that aim to offer a better organization of the product communities and improve the visitor-buyer experience.

Visitatori a Oroarezzo
Visitatori a Oroarezzo

For this edition, exhibitors are up by 15% compared to 2022. Goldsmith, silversmith and jeweler manufacturing, together with semi-finished products and components, represents 65% of the offer, 90% Made in Italy, with a representative selection also of the best of foreign production districts. Among the jewelery brands present, Moraglione, F.A. Jewels and Stefano&C of the gold district of Valenza. There is no shortage of machinery and technology companies for the gold sector, precious and semi-precious stones, packaging and visual merchandising services, as well as the usual area dedicated to cash & carry for retailers.

Oroarezzo 2019
Oroarezzo 2019

The jewelry industry wants to hire young people. That’s why it can’t find them




Do you want to work in the jewelry world? Come on, there’s room. Especially for young people who want to learn the ancient art of working with gold, setting gems and designing. The invitation comes from the Italian sector associations: companies are looking for new professional resources.
According to Confindustria Federorafi, the Italian Exhibition Group (the company that organizes Vicenzaoro), which involved the site Skuola.net, the figures are unequivocal: Italian exports in November 2022 came close to 9 billion euros (8.98 million euros) with an increase of 22.1% over the same period of 2021 and 40.6% over 2019, pre-covid. The data, the companies point out, is of great importance for a sector that exports 89.5% of its turnover.

Marco Carniello, Global Exhibition Director Jewellery & Fashion di Italian Exhibition Group
Marco Carniello, Global Exhibition Director Jewellery & Fashion di Italian Exhibition Group

And forecasts are also brilliant (the right adjective): sector turnover forecasts for 2022 indicate an absolute record of 10.9 billion euros, despite a slowdown in recent months. The export of Italian jewelery is mainly directed to the USA (+13.9%), Switzerland (+20.9%) and the Emirates (+20.9%), while the covid restrictions have only slowed down Hong Kongs (-0.5%). The economic surveys on a sample of companies also indicate a positive sentiment for the first half of 2023, both for turnover and for employees: 36% of the companies interviewed believe they will hire other employees. The Italian world of jewelery involves 30,619 people (58% women).
Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia
Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia

In short, great satisfaction. But up to a certain point, because the more than 7,100 Italian companies in the sector cannot find specialized personnel. Worse still, over half of the employed will be of retirement age in less than ten years and only 13% of the employed are under the age of 30. The thriving goldsmith business is little perceived by young people, it has no appeal. Yet there is no shortage of specialized schools: there are almost 40 institutes providing training, but the number of graduate students is still insufficient compared to the demand from companies, which are looking for around 3,000 people to hire overall.

Our school system has one tenth of technical graduates compared to Germany. A training and information effort by school principals, teachers and counselors is needed, starting from secondary school, to acquire all the elements and all the useful information to be transferred to the students, making the most of the many opportunities in professional and salary terms that the sector also of the precious it can offer. At the same time, the business system must be more open and communicate better.
Claudia Piaserico, President of Confindustria Federorafi

Claudia Piaserico, presidente di Federorafi
Claudia Piaserico, presidente di Federorafi

Here, exactly. Because if the world of jewelery attracts little, it is also because it often communicates a dusty image. Old. Obsolete. Not all companies, please. The big brands, the companies that compete on foreign markets with the finished product, not with the semi-finished products, have a different way of approaching the world of work. But of the 7,100 companies mentioned, those of international level are no more than a hundred, perhaps much much less. Just look at the gallery of horrors of dated, old, out-of-date corporate websites. Can anyone who sells a refined product afford to offer a website that has been stopped for years as a business card? Who doesn’t explain, doesn’t introduce himself, doesn’t offer any point of interest for a young person? And we are also talking about companies that produce fine jewelry. But who wants to go to work in a company that has no interest in informing about its business? Not to mention the many micro-companies that don’t have a website either.
Gioielli Zancan, laboratorio
Gioielli Zancan, laboratorio

We also want to talk about what these companies offer to a young person? And not just from a salary point of view. If working in a goldsmith industry means facing a repetitive, unstimulating task, then the choice depends only on the salary. A young man will go where he earns the most. Point. How many jewelery companies also present themselves with prospects for professional growth, creativity, with a stimulating environment?
Lavorazione artigianale nel laboratorio di Luigi Sala Gioielli
Lavorazione artigianale nel laboratorio di Luigi Sala Gioielli

In any case, the goldsmith industries are looking for young people to hire. For this reason, Federorafi has created for the first time a mapping of schools and institutes with goldsmith courses. Not only that, the association has also defined the most sought-after professional profiles such as goldsmith, cashier, engraver, gemologist, cleaner, 3D printing expert, numerical control machine expert, designer, digital media specialist and organized the first Orientation day during Vicenzaoro and will also activate a platform to facilitate the matching between supply and demand. Furthermore, Federorafi, in collaboration with Vicenzaoro, has launched a partnership with Skuola.net to open a channel with students. Excellent initiative. But, at the same time, Federorafi could also do some training for its associates.
Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili







A master’s degree in Venice on the art of jewellery




Learn the art of jewelry in a city that is a work of art: Venice. In the most extraordinary city in the world, goldsmithing is a tradition that dates back to its foundation. The lagoon goldsmith shops are linked to the art of glass, gold leaf and paper. From this tradition the idea of a Contemporary Jewelery Design Master was born in Venice, which aims to deepen knowledge through the entire supply chain: from the historical-theoretical training of manufactures, techniques and materials to design, from laboratory production to market strategies, such as the identification of trends and the visual communication of the finished product.

Locandina del Master sul design del gioiello a Venezia
Poster del Master sul design del gioiello

The Master offers the contribution of the leading Italian experts in the sector, able to provide the necessary basic planning, laboratory and marketing preparation. The topics on the program are Design Jewellery, Artist Jewellery, Research Jewellery, Jewelery and Goldsmithing, Costume Jewellery, Jewelery for the Fashion System, Scene Jewellery. Anyone who has obtained a Bachelor’s degree under the old system or, vice versa, a Bachelor’s degree under the new system can access the First Level Master’s without any age limit.
Interno del laboratorio di oreficeria
Laboratorio di oreficeria

In the selection ranking, priority will be given to students graduates in the Jewelery sector and in the fields of Art (painting, sculpture, architecture, graphics), Restoration, Design, Fashion and Theater (costume and scenography). The Master will begin in November 2023 and includes 1,500 hours of lessons (795 of which in presence), in which to acquire broad historical and theoretical skills on manufacturing, techniques, materials, design, laboratory production. But also market strategies such as the identification of trends and the visual communication of the finished product.
Esterno dell'Accademia di Belle Arti a Venezia alle Zattere
Esterno dell’Accademia di Belle Arti a Venezia

All this by creating specific paths that show all the types, characteristics and professional opportunities of the entire sector. The master will end in May 2024, when the 275-hour internships in the company and the final preparation of the thesis will start. The Master is limited in number, with a maximum of 20 participants and the selection is foreseen to evaluate the candidates: with the same curriculum, students from the courses of the Academy of Fine Arts in Venice will take precedence. The “Master Design of Contemporary Jewelery” will be activated with a minimum of 15 participants at a single cost of 3,500 euros.
Una delle aule dell'Accademia di Belle Arti
Aula interna dell’Accademia di Belle Arti

Il cortile interno dell'Accademia di Belle Arti a Venezia
Chiostro interno all’Accademia







Jewelry stores still beat online shopping




Buying jewelry online is no longer an exception. Yet buying in a traditional shop is still the preferred choice of the vast majority of people, at least in many countries, including Italy. A photograph of the trends and habits of those who buy jewelery comes from a survey by the Federpreziosi Observatory (association of distribution companies) on a representative sample of Italian consumers with 700 interviews with people over the age of 24.

Gioielleria durante il periodo natalizio
Gioielleria durante il periodo natalizio

Even if online jewelry shopping is not widespread in Italy, the number of shops that sell precious items is decreasing. There are 13,296 companies in the retail trade of watches, jewelery and silverware, but from 2013 to 2021 they closed around 4,000 jewelery shops. The sales of all these companies are estimated at almost 5 billion euros, of which over 40% are concentrated in the North West regions. Turnover is growing compared to 2020 but has not yet reached pre-pandemic levels. 33,890 people work in jewelers in Italy. Large companies are 0.1% of Italian jewelers and invoice 21.3% of the total.
La gioielleria Rocca in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a Milano
La gioielleria Rocca in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, a Milano

Habits
In Italy, and not only there, on the occasion of anniversaries the choice often falls on the purchase of jewels and valuables. The main reasons for buying a jewel are the awareness of the desire of the person to whom one intends to give it (53.8%) and the pleasure of wearing jewels (42.9%). Interestingly, 94.7% of those who have not avoided buying a jewel have done so mainly due to the excessive cost of jewels (50.4%), but also because they consider the jewel a personal product and therefore difficult to give away (20.4%). The purchases of valuables and jewels are concentrated for men aged between 45 and 54, often residing in large cities. 13.4% of those interviewed bought a jewel for themselves.
Una collana di alta gioielleria di de Grisogono
Collana di alta gioielleria

Offline
91.8% of Italian consumers buy in a physical store and only 8.2% online. 60.5% of those who bought a jewel had a precise idea before going to the shop, while almost 40% knew they wanted to buy a jewel, but did not have a precise idea of what to buy and sought advice from the jeweler. The jeweler’s experience was used for 45% of the jewels sold, in compensation in about 55% of the cases the advice of friends and acquaintances, product advertising in newspapers and TV and communication on the web played a role. Sponsored contents on the web (66.4%) are among the reasons that determined the choice of the jewel.
Gioielleria a Milano
Gioielleria a Milano







The new frontiers of jewelry printing presented by 3DZ




Digital jewelry printing was science fiction 20 years ago, it was an experiment with questionable results ten years ago, it’s a reality today. The technologies for making real jewels capable of keeping up with those obtained with the traditional technique are different. One of these is the one presented at TGold, a fair combined with Vicenzaoro by 3DZ, a company from Castelfranco Veneto (Treviso) founded in 2010 and specialized in consultancy on the adoption of 3D printing in companies and in the sale of world brands of 3D printers and scanners. At Vicenzaoro 3DZ presented printers capable of what are defined as technical miracles. These are the 2500Wax, the Figure 4 Jewelry and the Demi 430, novelties for the post-processing of 3D printed pieces.

Gianfranco Caufin, area manager di 3DZ
Gianfranco Caufin, area manager di 3DZ

The novelty concerns the post-processing. It is a new automated system for the removal of wax supports from 3D printed pieces: Demi 430, a machine from the Post Process company. The machine allows a new method of cleaning wax models, safer, faster, with reduced manual intervention and quality results. The 3D printing technologies presented by the company for the creation of jewelry and accessories include MJP 2500 Wax and Figure4 Jewelry by 3D Systems, a world leader in the production of 3D printers for the jewelry sector. And then the 3D printing materials for jewellery, waxes and resins, in particular Visijet Wax Red Jewel, 100% meltable, elastic and resistant wax for any type of design, including watermarks and very thin thicknesses. The new material was created for the compact, fast, high resolution and high yield MJP 2500 Wax 3D printer. Figure 4 Jewelry, on the other hand, is the ultra-fast resin 3D printer for direct casting models and master models for rubber molds; Micropoint holders are easy to remove, for a smooth surface finish and reduced post-machining.
Stampa a cera
Stampa a cera

Collana Reflection della collezione Atlas in oro 18 carati e argento ossidato
Collana Reflection della collezione Atlas in oro 18 carati e argento ossidato, gioiello stampato in 3D







Reza’s legacy




Five years after the death of Alexandre Reza, the great Parisian jewelery house continues on the path traced by its founder. In fact, the company’s activities had been transferred to his son Olivier as early as 2008. But it is worth remembering this great jeweler, who had an adventurous and exciting life. And it has become a myth in the history of jewelry. Just remember that in 1997, when Diana was killed in a car accident in Paris, she wore a solitaire ring from Reza, which she had received a few hours earlier from her boyfriend Dodi al-Fayed.

Bracciale in oro bianco con sette spinelli per 10,94 carati e 110 brillanti per 12,15 carati
Bracciale in oro bianco con sette spinelli per 10,94 carati e 110 brillanti per 12,15 carati

Alexandre Reza, who died in 2016 at the age of 93, was born in 1922 in Moscow, into a family of Persian origins. The father was a jeweler too. The family, who fled the Russian Revolution, arrived in Paris after the Second World War. Alexandre Reza soon became famous in France for his ability to discover exceptional ancient gems from Colombia, India, Burma (Myanmar), Thailand and Sri Lanka. He founded his Maison in the 1950s and started trading gems: he supplied stones to brands such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Louis Gérard and Van Cleef & Arpels and later on making jewels for the great brands of Place Vendôme. Then, in 1981 he too founded his own Maison and opened his boutique in 1984. His specialty was high jewelery.
Orecchini in oro bianco con 74 diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Orecchini in oro bianco con 74 diamanti e tormalina Paraiba

Alexandre Reza’s creations have become famous for their richness and originality of design, with large, but light, original, but not extravagant jewels. Unique, coveted and very expensive pieces, always on average above 100,000 dollars. In summer 2020, Christie’s sold a two-diamond blue and white Reza ring for $ 9.2 million.

Orecchini della collezione Farandoles, con 18 smeraldi per 27,44 carati e 70 brillanti
Orecchini della collezione Farandoles, con 18 smeraldi per 27,44 carati e 70 brillanti

Olivier Reza, who after having accompanied his father on his travels in search of gems had chosen a career as a banker, returned to lead the company. After a refurbishment phase, in June 2012 he reopened a salon on Place Vendôme and continues his father’s work with the aim of adding new exceptional pieces to the Alexandre Reza collection.

Bracciale con zaffiri taglio smeraldo
Bracciale con zaffiri taglio smeraldo
Orecchini con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini con diamanti e rubini
Collana Zamarat con uno smeraldo colombiano di 19,78 carati, smeraldi, perle, e 155 brillanti
Collana Zamarat con uno smeraldo colombiano di 19,78 carati, smeraldi, perle, e 155 brillanti
Orecchini della collezione Ruban in oro annerito e 116 diamanti per 9,75 carati
Orecchini della collezione Ruban in oro annerito e 116 diamanti per 9,75 carati
Orecchini con diamanti, smeraldo taglio pera e zaffiro taglio smeraldo
Orecchini con diamanti, smeraldo taglio pera e zaffiro taglio smeraldo

Anello Moon con smeraldi colombiani per 11,34 carati e un diamante taglio smeraldo di 9,88 carati
Anello Moon con smeraldi colombiani per 11,34 carati e un diamante taglio smeraldo di 9,88 carati







Ten useful tips before buying a jewel





How to choose a jewel to give or buy for you? Here are ten useful tips for those looking for a diamond or gemstone ring ♦ ︎

When buying a diamond, or rubies, emeralds, sapphires, the advice of an expert is essential. But, in any case, it is better to know more about the characteristics of the stones. If the famous 4 Cs of diamonds carat (carat), color (color), clarity (clarity) and cut (cut), are now known to everyone (and if you don’t know them you can find the explanation in our section To know), here some things to know before entering the jewelry store.

Lo store di Tiffany in piazza Duomo, a Milano
Lo store di Tiffany in piazza Duomo, a Milano

They are not just any advices: they are those elaborated by the Gemological Institute of America (Gia), that is the United States mineralogy research and learning center, the most famous in the world, which also helped create the diamond valuation standard. Its certification is a guarantee in evaluations and transactions. Hence, it is best to follow his advice.
La cassaforte per gioielli Baron
La cassaforte per gioielli Baron

1 Also think about where to store them. Buying a piece of jewelry is easy if you have the necessary money. But a non-trivial and often underestimated aspect concerns your home. Do you have a place, possibly safe, to keep the jewels? If your jewelry investment is high, think about where and how to store your jewelry first. In addition to safety, another important aspect concerns the integrity of the jewelry. Your precious rings, necklaces and bracelets, in fact, can be damaged if they are placed in contact with each other: it is better to always keep them in the box in which they were sold by the jeweler. For example, in addition to diamonds, sapphires are also very hard stones and can scratch other stones they come into contact with. In short, the jewels are best kept separate.
Lo zaffiro birmano Royal Blue non riscaldato di 118,88 carati e l'anello con rubino birmano di 6,41 carati
Lo zaffiro birmano Royal Blue non riscaldato di 118,88 carati e l’anello con rubino birmano di 6,41 carati

2 Green is in fashion. The green color has an advantage, in addition to being the symbol of nature and the environment: emeralds, which have this color, are larger for the same weight. So, if you want to make a good impression, go for emeralds for the same price. Since this mineral has a low density, in fact, a 1 carat emerald will be larger than a diamond of the same weight. In short, the emerald is more voluminous for the same weight.
Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati
Anello con smeraldo ottagonale di 8,32 carati

3 Size matters. There is nothing worse, if you want to give a ring as a gift, than buying one of the wrong size. The joy of receiving a precious gift turns into disappointment for not being able to wear the jewel. Sure, a ring can be widened or tightened (but not always), but the surprise effect is ruined. So, pay attention to the size of the ring: it is very important that it can be worn easily, without causing discomfort. The ring should slide smoothly down the bottom of the finger, but it shouldn’t be too loose. He must not turn around or slip out of his position. How to know exactly the right ring size? We wrote about it here.
Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity
Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity con perle

4 Decide on a budget. Before buying a ring, it is good to know the maximum price you want to spend. It is an important aspect, because once you enter the jewelry it is better not to have indecision or, worse, to repent immediately after the purchase just made. When you enter the jewelry store, therefore, it is best to immediately explain how much you are willing to spend: this will help the jeweler find the right jewel for your budget.
Madalina Ghenea con una collier della colelzione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani
Madalina Ghenea con una collier della collezione Vulcania, alta gioielleria Damiani

5 The purple color. Do you like strong colors? A ring with a rather large ruby ​​costs a lot. Of course, alternatively you can choose a jewel with spinel, which often has a lower price, but it is always a high cost. An alternative is amethyst, which is purple but is always a rather warm shade. And it costs less. But not all amethysts are the same: the most popular shade of amethyst is the one that tends to purple red, or an intense purple, without brown or bronze shades. The color of the amethyst must be uniform, visible to the naked eye when looking at the stone from above. Otherwise the amethyst may appear too dark in low light conditions.
Anelli a incastro in oro bianco e diamanti (1 carato)
Anelli a incastro in oro bianco e diamanti (1 carato)

6 Diamonds with discount. Diamonds cost a lot, especially if their weight exceeds 1 carat. If you have a lot of money to spend, and don’t think of the ring as a jewel to resell, you can opt for a 0.99 carat diamond or a similar weight: the appearance will be practically identical to that of a 1 carat stone, but the cost will be much lower. In short, a diamond with a discount, because the psychological threshold of 1 carat raises the price a lot. An alternative is to choose a Halo type ring, that is, with many smaller diamonds mounted around a central stone: this crown of small stones serves to increase the brilliance of the central one and helps to keep the price down.
Un esempio di certificato, quello dell'IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano
Un esempio di certificato, quello dell’IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano

7 Ask for the certificate. If you buy a diamond jewel do not forget to ask for the certificate of authenticity of the stones. Unfortunately, anyone who is not an expert and does not turn to a good jeweler risks falling into some trap. For example, a diamond created in the laboratory can be mounted on the ring instead of a diamond, very similar to the natural one, but which costs less. Synthetic stones are many and difficult to distinguish for those who are not experts. Jewelery with an unnatural stone should not be sold in a non-transparent way. And this usually doesn’t happen if the dealer is well known: a fake stone would ruin his reputation. In any case, a certificate of guarantee will indicate the characteristics of the diamond, ie weight and quality.
Analisi di un diamante
Analisi di un diamante

8 Look inside the gems. Diamonds aren’t the only stones imitated by lab-created gems. But how to distinguish them from natural ones? A fairly simple way is to look at them very closely, through a magnifying glass, perhaps the ones that come close to the eye used by jewelers (they can be bought online at a modest price). Natural stones almost always show some inclusions inside them. They are small imperfections which, however, are also a guarantee of their origin. For example, pink or red tourmaline often has multiple inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. A true emerald always has small cracks or inclusions. In short, an imperfect stone has also certainly been extracted from the earth.
Bracciale con rubini burmesi e diamanti
Bracciale con rubini burmesi e diamanti

9 Ask for your passport. If you buy a jewel with a precious stone, find out where it comes from: the place where the gem was extracted also affects the price. For example, a ruby ​​mined in Burma is more valuable than the same type of stone, but which comes from Ceylon. Or, an emerald from Colombia is more expensive than one mined in Mozambique. Of course, the evaluation also depends on the weight and quality of the gem. In any case, the origin has a certain importance in the evaluation, just as it happens for the products that are purchased every day: for the same quality, one brand can have a higher price than another. Marketing magic.
Anelli con pavé di diamanti bianchi, brown e neri
Anelli con pavé di diamanti bianchi, brown e neri

10 Different diamonds. As we said in point 7, if you want to buy a diamond ring, the request for a certificate certifying the origin of the stone is necessary. But, in addition to authenticity, the gemological certificate also guarantees the quality of the diamond. In short, it is a question of understanding the classification according to the four C. For example, colorless diamonds are not always perfectly transparent. There are white diamonds that can have a milky transparency. Or inclusions. Or, more often, have a slightly yellowish color. These diamonds can be used for beautiful jewelry. But their price must also be different.
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi







Lvmh conquers Pedemonte (and Vendorafa)




A large portion of Italian jewelery emigrates to France, to Paris. He doesn’t move the laboratories, but the property. Pedemonte Group, controlled by the Equinox III SLP SIF investment fund, was sold to the giant LVMH, which already has brands such as Bulgari, Tiffany, Chaumet, Fred and Repossi. The Pedemonte group is above all a third-party jewelery manufacturer, with offices in Italy (in Valenza and Valmadonna, in Piedmont) and France. But it also produces its own collections under the Vendorafa brand, internationally recognized as the flagship of Made in Italy since 1951 for its unique style and manufacturing excellence.

Anello Onda di Vendorafa
Anello Onda di Vendorafa

With this strategic acquisition, the LVMH group is further strengthened in Italy, continuing to support the ecosystem of companies that contribute to the success of our Houses. With Pedemonte, our Maisons will rely on a partner recognized for its savoir-faire, in order to support their growth and maintain their leadership in jewelry.
Toni Belloni, General Manager of LVMH

Toni Belloni
Toni Belloni

Now the purchase of Pedemonte will allow Lvmh to further increase its production capacity. The Pedemonte group was born in 2020 from the merger of several independent production laboratories and has conquered a prominent place in the high-end jewelry market. It employs 350 craftsmen and employees.
Lavorazione di gioielli nel laboratorio di Pedemonte Group
Lavorazione di gioielli nel laboratorio di Pedemonte Group

Bracciale Anaconda di Vendorafa
Bracciale Anaconda di Vendorafa







The evocative world of Elena Okutova




From St. Petersburg to Moscow to Geneva. Elena Okutova is one of the new generation Russian designers, who combine the Russian goldsmith tradition with the desire to innovate. The designer returned to GemGèneve autumn edition, where she was also present last year, but in the Vivarium Quartet area, while last year she was Emerging Talent. Her jewels are elaborate, dense and made with the use of traditional techniques, including silver, enamel and gold, which are accompanied by gems. In addition to the way of working rings or pendants, the jewels also reflect Russian traditions, fairy tales, tales and folklore, with references to ancient history.

Anello con ametista, argento, oro, smalto, zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con ametista, argento, oro, smalto, zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Elena Okutova studied artistic metalworking at Moscow State University and founded her own brand in 2009 in tandem with her mother Irina, who accompanies her. The jewels are first modeled by hand in wax and then made with engraving, enamelling, setting. Oriental references are intertwined, such as the Ottoman turban-shaped ring, but also with Chinese or contemporary art. They are unique pieces that make the designer’s work original and evocative at the same time.
elena okutova anello con prasiolite Copyright gioiellis
Anello Japanese Garden, con un presiolite al centro

Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Japanese Garden ring,  fianco
Japanese Garden ring, in argento, oro, smalto. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Japanese Garden ring,  esterno
Japanese Garden ring, esterno. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in argento, oro, rodolite, granati, zaffiri viola. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in argento, oro, rodolite, granati, zaffiri viola. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello a forma di turbante ottomano. Argento, oro, crisoprasio
Anello a forma di turbante ottomano. Argento, oro, crisoprasio. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in argento oro, gemme Swarovski, ispirato alla melagrana
Anello in argento oro, gemme Swarovski, ispirato alla melagrana e all’impero ottomano. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Elena Okutova. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Elena Okutova. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Ieg conquers the Singapore jewelry fair




Vicenzaoro or, more precisely, Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes the great Italian jewelery fair twice a year, lands in Singapore. Ieg and Singapore Tourism Board have signed an agreement (Memorandum of Understanding) for the development of events and congresses. The deal was presented in the Asian city-state.

Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The partnership with Singapore Tourism Board marks a further, important step forward in the internationalization process of IEG, which consolidates its presence in the Asian continent. Singapore today boasts a highly developed economic structure based on high value added services and manufacturing. This is an important piece of our strategy which aims to affirm IEG in all respects as the community catalyst of the industries represented at our events, taking them to the most promising markets, generating value in terms of business for the exhibiting companies, associations and all stakeholders.
Corrado Peraboni, CEO of Ieg

Corrado Peraboni, Ceo di Ieg
Corrado Peraboni, Ceo di Ieg

According to the agreement, Ieg will open its own office in Singapore, where it recently also signed a letter of intent for the acquisition from Cems-Conference & Exhibition Management Services of two strategic trade fairs in the luxury and food segments: it is Sije, Singapore International Jewelry Expo and Cafè Asia, Sweet and Bakes Asia, Restaurant Asia.

According to Francesco Santa, International Business Development Director of Ieg, “Singapore Tourism Board and Ieg start a long-term collaboration”, and the agreement for the acquisition of the jewelery and food fairs are a confirmation of this.

Italian Exhibition Group. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Italian Exhibition Group. Copyright: gioiellis.com

La sfilata con i gioielli Castaldi a Singapore
Sfilata con i gioielli Castaldi a Singapore







Seaman Schepps story





Short history of the great American designer Seaman Schepps, a master of color ♦ ︎
There are designers who have a resounding success for a shorter or longer period. And there are designers who enter history. One of these is Seaman Schepps. Son of immigrants, he became famous for his vintage-style jewelry. From the East Side of New York, at the end of the nineteenth century, Schepps moved to California, with its own shop in Los Angeles that also sold antiques in addition to jewelry. In 1931 he returned to New York, where he finally had a good success with a store on Madison Avenue.

Anello di Seaman Schepps in oro e lapislazzuli
Anello di Seaman Schepps in oro e lapislazzuli

Schepps, like many Americans of that time, regarded Europe as the beacon of creativity. Therefore, when he visited Paris, he studied Verdura’s jewels for Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, René Boivin and Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier. These great designers have contributed to the professional growth of Schepps, which has found its artistic path: large jewelry, super retro-style bracelets, many colored stones. He was not a revolutionary of jewelry, but a painter who used the colors of the palette in an original way.

Collana con tormalina rosa, perle, zaffiri, diamanti
Collana con tormalina rosa, perle, zaffiri, diamanti

The stones were often cut irregularly, they used little diamonds, while they preferred pastel-colored stones like blue sapphires, emeralds, yellow topazes, citrines, rose quartz, jade, turquoise and lapis lazuli. In short, he has reworked already used geometries, such as the Maltese cross, but with his own style. His work continued until the late 1960s. Then, the Seaman Schepps brand was sold to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenjam and still exists. But the designer’s original jewels are still very sought after. Cosimo Muzzano

Orecchini con rubini sintetici e diamanti
Orecchini con rubini sintetici e diamanti
Collana e orecchini di perle coltivate e diamanti
Collana e orecchini di perle coltivate e diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, e perle di rubino
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, e perle di rubino
Collana in quarzo avventurina, giada e rubini
Collana in quarzo avventurina, giada e rubini
Orecchini con conchiglia, oro, perle
Orecchini con conchiglia, oro, perle
Bracciale in oro, gemme e diamanti
Bracciale in oro, gemme e diamanti
Bracciale Rio, in oro 18 carati, platino, pietre colorate e diamanti
Bracciale Rio, in oro 18 carati, platino, pietre colorate e diamanti
Bracciale multigemma venduto da Christie's
Bracciale multigemma venduto da Christie’s
Spilla a forma di cornucopia con perle mobili, diamanti, smeraldo
Spilla a forma di cornucopia con perle mobili, diamanti, smeraldo
Bracciale anni Cinquanta venduto da Sotheby's
Bracciale anni Cinquanta venduto da Sotheby’s

Spilla floreale con citrini
Spilla floreale con citrini

Un giovane Seam Schepps
Un giovane Seam Schepps







Vicenzaoro closes at + 10%




Everyone happily ever after in Vicenzaoro. Certainly the organizers, that is Italian Exhibition Group, are. And, probably, many exhibitors too, if you consider the numbers. The September edition of the jewelery fair surpassed the pre-covid results: visitors were 10% more than in 2019, with an increase in arrivals from abroad of 20%. Business is likely to have risen as a result. In the final press release at the end of the fair, Ieg released figures that, perhaps, may regret the companies that have decided not to participate. Here are the data, rather comforting for the sector, given that Vicenzaoro is a B2B event, that is, accessible only to operators (and journalists), and the positive comments of the representatives of some of the brands present.

The foreign presence has been excellent for us, both from overseas and from Europe, for potential and new dealers, with quality visits in line with our positioning and with what we are looking for. We also found interest and propensity for the future, all positive notes.

Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visite a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Over half of the total presences (51%) came from across borders, from 124 different countries. Total media contacts, including those of gioiellis.com, reached 92 million gross, of which 29 million from the foreign press. The views by professional operators of exhibitor profiles on The Jewelery Golden Cloud B2B platform exceeded 125,000. In detail, visitors and buyers came mainly from Spain (7.3%), France (5.5%) and Germany (5.1%). Among non-European countries, the United States (5.7%, Turkey (3.3%), Israel (2.5%) and UAE (2.3%) are in first place. But there was no lack of contributions from India (1, 9%), Mexico, Colombia (both 1%) and Brazil (0.7%).
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For Fabergé Vicenzaoro, September 2022 was a very successful event in terms of commercial, visitor and press terms, despite a complicated period from a socio-economic and political point of view. We are extremely satisfied, because we have met many of our partners and developed new contacts and relationships from all over the world, in an edition that was the stage for us to exhibit our object d’art dedicated to Game of Thrones, a unique piece in the world presented at Vicenzaoro for the first time in Europe.
Nico Clary, head of wholesale at Fabergé

Nico Clary, head of wholesale Fabergé. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Nico Clary, head of wholesale Fabergé. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com







The jewelry shines, with some shadows





How is the jewelry market in Italy going? This question is answered by the second edition of the economic survey organized by the Goldsmiths Club and Banca Intesa Sanpaolo. The results were defined with a survey among the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The survey was presented in a talk during the first day of Vicenzaoro. Result: everything is fine for now. More than half of the operators hypothesize a growth in turnover, also confirmed by the change in the Istat index, which stood at + 32% in the first half of 2022, better than the sectors of the fashion sector and the average of Italian manufacturing.

La cerimonia inaugurale di Vicenzaoro, con Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente Italian Exhibition Group, Elena Bonetti, Ministro per le Pari opportunità e famiglia, Erika Stefani, Ministro per le disabilità, Francesco Rucco, sindaco di Vicenza, Roberto Luongo, Direttore Generale ICE Agenzia, Maria Cristina Franco, vicepresidente della Provincia di Vicenza, Claudia Piaserico, presidente Federorafi, Roberto Marcato, Assessore allo Sviluppo Economico ed Energia Regione Veneto
La cerimonia inaugurale di Vicenzaoro, con Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente Italian Exhibition Group, Elena Bonetti, Ministro per le Pari opportunità e famiglia, Erika Stefani, Ministro per le disabilità, Francesco Rucco, sindaco di Vicenza, Roberto Luongo, Direttore Generale ICE Agenzia, Maria Cristina Franco, vicepresidente della Provincia di Vicenza, Claudia Piaserico, presidente Federorafi, Roberto Marcato, Assessore allo Sviluppo Economico ed Energia Regione Veneto

Still according to the survey, in terms of industrial production, jewelery and costume jewelery ranks among the best performers of the Italian industry, both in comparison with the first half of 2021 (+ 23%, in fourth position among the manufacturing sectors) and with respect to first six months of 2019 (+ 30%, which earned it third place in the ranking).

Vetrine di Piovani a Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrine di Piovani a Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

However, some shadows loom. One is brought about by Russia’s war in Ukraine. The second, on the other hand, concerns the increase in interest rates. Furthermore, the inflationary phenomenon is historically accompanied by the increase in the price of gold. At the beginning of September, the survey confirms, compared to previous editions, a downward revision of expectations was recorded which, however, seems to involve only smaller operators. The larger companies, on the other hand, confirm their stability for the current year with 70% of participants declaring a growth in turnover. It should be added, however, that the quantity of what is sold does not always correspond to the profits written in the financial statements.

Vicenzaoro
Vicenzaoro

In any case, in the first five months of 2022 there was a growth of 41% in value and 15% in quantity of exports. The Made in Italy jewel has managed to consolidate its positioning towards the main commercial competitors. In particular, it gained positions in the United States where it represents the second partner with a share of 12.7% in the first part of 2022.

However, it is surprising that, faced with this uncertain picture, companies complain in particular of the difficulty in finding labor, a problem indicated by 80% of the largest companies, while among smaller companies the attention to transport costs is growing.

Analisi gemmologica a Vicenzaoro
Analisi gemmologica a Vicenzaoro







Vicenzaoro kicks off with the trend wind




Five days dedicated to jewelry. Vicenzaoro September is the most important event of the year in Italy, and beyond, because it is a prelude to the hottest season (at least from a shopping point of view). The Vicenza fair organized by Ieg is scheduled from 9 September (Friday) to 13 September (Tuesday). And, even if the post-pandemic period just ended for the sector’s business has been satisfactory, the impact that the war in Ukraine will have and the consequent increase in energy costs on the jewelry industry has to be verified. Moreover, a large part has given up on the problematic Russian market.

VicenzaOro September 2019
VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As an encouragement, Italian Exhibition Group recalls the sector data relating to Italy: in the first five months of 2022, manufacturers of finished jewelery or components recorded an export growth in value of 36.5%, just under 4 billion euros. euro, about 1 billion more than in the same period last year (the estimate is from the Confindustria Moda Study Center based on Istat data for Federorafi).

Il booth di Yoko London a VicenzaOro
Il booth di Yoko London a VicenzaOro

At Vicenzaoro September the thousand exhibiting brands hope that the positive wind will continue to blow in the sails of sales, because the companies are close to the levels of 2019, but have not yet reached them. In any case, 35% of buyers from 28 foreign countries, Turkey, Germany, Spain the most represented, are present at the fair. And, other good news, China and Hong Kong, India and Thailand, for Asia are also returning to Vicenza. In all, 400 buyers were hosted, from over 70 countries, thanks to the support of about forty Ice offices around the world. Also present are all the acronyms of the various associations, which also organize a series of meetings of which we have already written in the article on the program, which you can find here.

Vetrina a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vetrina a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com






Federica Tosi queen of Rome




The jewels of the Roman designer Federica Tosi: Nina Zilli, Illary Blasi and … like them ♦ ︎

“Jewelry is the natural completion of the clothing collection,” explains Federica Tosi. And it is a common opinion that, in this case, has a different flavor. Because she is the designer of the clothing and jewelry lines that bear her name. Federica Tosi is one of the new names, but with several fans already, of Roman fashion. And it is one of the few cases of designers who deal with both the clothing line (she has presented his collections also at high fashion shows in Rome) and jewelry.

Bracciale in ottone placcato oro
Bracciale in ottone placcato oro

The rings, earrings and necklaces are in brass or silver bathed in rose, yellow and burnished gold. But behind the designer has the appreciation of a series of characters from the world of Italian entertainment, such as Nina Zilli, Ilary Blasi, Fiorella Mannoia, Laura Pausini, Rocío Muñoz Morales, Nicoletta Romanoff, Camilla Filippi, Lucia Mascino, Valentina Romani, Matilde Gioli and Stella Egypt. Federica Tosi’s career, she says, began by chance after a trip to the United States in 2006, where she discovered the art of composition with crystals, which she then used for her jewelry collections, now also sold from online stores such as LuisaViaRoma. After a period of professional growth, the Federica Tosi brand was born in 2016. But it has already been successful.

Anello Ale in ottone bagnato oro 18 carati
Anello Ale in ottone bagnato oro 18 carati
Anello Dalia in bronzo finitura oro 18 carati
Anello Dalia in bronzo finitura oro 18 carati
Anello Tube. Realizzato in Italia. MATERIALE Ottone FINITURA Ottone placcato oro
Anello Tube in ottone finitura oro 18 carati
Choker Dalia in ottone finitura oro 18 carati
Choker Dalia in ottone finitura oro 18 carati
Collana Norah in ottone placcato oro
Collana Norah in ottone placcato oro

Orecchini Christy in ottone placcato oro
Orecchini Christy in ottone placcato oro







Vo Vintage returns to Vicenza




Together with Vicenzaoro, vintage jewels and watches are back. The Vo Vintage event, first introduced in January 2020, just before the outbreak of the pandemic, takes place in parallel in Vicenzaoro. It is housed on the first floor of the Vicenza Fair, in the foyer, and provides the possibility of access for the public, while Vicenzaoro is reserved for professional users. The new edition of Vo Vintage is scheduled for three days in September (9-11), while Vicenzaoro will continue two more days (9-13). The attendance of the first three editions (this is the fourth) was encouraging and the organizer of Vicenzaoro and Vo, that is Ieg, decided to insist on this path.

Vo Vintage 2019, gioielli. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vo Vintage 2019, gioielli. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also in the September 2022 edition there will be retailers, but also watch collectors such as Sandro Fratini, with his son Giulio, and Auro Montanari, watchmaking opinion leaders such as Bruno Bergamaschi (aka Giorgione), experts in the technique and watchmaking history such as Ugo Pancani of the Geneva-based FHH (Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie) and the master watchmaker Luca Soprana. Among the exhibitors, Ieg signals the entry of new dealers such as Robert Maron Watches and Andrea Foffi with Hipster, and confirmations such as Lucas Relogios and Lo Time by Luigi Loiero for watchmaking. And, on the jewelery front, by Ela Antichità, Karma Pearls Limited, Montegrandi, F&F by Francesco Pontillo, Barbara Bassi and Art Decò Bijoux for period jewelery and high vintage jewelery. VO Vintage has selected some independent high-end contemporary watchmaking brands from Ahci (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants).
Andrea Foffi
Andrea Foffi

For timepiece enthusiasts, on the other hand, an exhibition is planned: Magister Speedmaster Exhibition. Birth and evolution of an Icon, promoted with the contribution of Andrea Foffi, owner of Vintage Watches and Cars, with 15 specimens from his private collection representing the history of the Speedmaster: from its debut in 1943 with movement designed by Albert Piguet and which has remained an evergreen to this day. In addition to the exhibition, events related to the world of watches are scheduled.

Vo Vintage gennaio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vo Vintage gennaio 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Precious simplicity for Calvin Klein

//




Calvin Richard Klein turns 80 in 2022 (best wishes), but his signature remains fresh. The American designer, who launched the company that became simply Calvin Klein in 1968, like other designers in addition to clothing has also given his name to a range of perfumes, watches, and jewelry. It is about fashion jewelry, a genre that counts on several fans, who focus more on the logo of the jewel than on the preciousness of the material, often in simple metal with PVD or gold plating.

Orecchini della linea Minimal Circular
Orecchini della linea Minimal Circular

For his jewels Calvin Klein prefers simplicity, as in the bracelets or rings of the Minimal Circular line, with rippled surfaces. On the other hand, the design of the Minimal Linear line is more accentuated, which uses a geometry that is a mix between a circular shape and a straight line. The Playful Repetition line, on the other hand, uses the contrast between worked and smooth surfaces. The jewels are in stainless steel in natural color, or pink or yellow, in some cases with the addition of cubic zirconia.
Collane Minimal Linear
Collane Minimal Linear

Anelli Minimal Linear
Anelli Minimal Linear
Orecchini Playful Repetition
Orecchini Playful Repetition
Collane Playful Repetition
Collane Playful Repetition
Orecchini in acciaio placcato
Orecchini in acciaio placcato
Bracciale in acciaio placcato
Bracciale in acciaio placcato

Orecchini Playful Repetition
Orecchini Playful Repetition







PdPaola scholarship for Central Saint Martins




Do you want to become a jewelry designer? There is nothing better than courses at Central Saint Martins in London. The course of study, however, is not within the reach of all portfolios. The Catalan brand PdPaola is now coming to the rescue, offering a scholarship program for students on the degree course in Design: Ceramics, Furniture or Jewelery at Central Saint Martins, starting from September 2022. The economic contribution offered by the brand of jewelery is £ 22,945 for the enrollment fee and maintenance during the course of study and is paid on the basis of financial needs and academic merit.

L'interno della Central Saint Martin
L’interno della Central Saint Martin

In addition, there will be the possibility of an internship at the PdPaola office in Barcelona. The deadline for submitting the application is Friday 24 June. «As a value-oriented brand, one of our pillars is the creativity we are committed to promoting inside and outside our company. Furthermore, we are driven and inspired by the connection with others and we feel affinity with any organization that shares our principles ”, they explain in the company. “This is why we decided to collaborate with the prestigious Central Saint Martins, as it embodies the values ​​we represent and works to shape the world through creative action”. At this link more information.
I fratelli Paola e Humbert Sasplugas
I fratelli Paola e Humbert Sasplugas, fondatori di PdPaola

Collana a e orecchini di PadPaola
Collana a e orecchini di PadPaola

Collana in argento placcato oro
Collana in argento placcato oro

Orecchini in argento
Orecchini in argento







Oroarezzo ready to go




More than 300 brands are expected in Oroarezzo, the event organized by Ieg, which resumes in attendance (7 to 10 May) after the blockade of the two pandemic years. Despite the shadows that are projected from Ukraine on the entire luxury sector, the goldsmith sector has held up well for now, even if it is starting to register the repercussions of the blockade of the Russian market. In any case, in Oroarezzo there will be companies from the Tuscan district such as Unoaerre, Giordini, Gold Art, Graziella Group, Richline and Lusso, but also from the Vicenza district such as Chrysos, Rancangelo, Alessi Domenico, Superoro, Ronco and Sharma Group World, from Naples. with Roberto Giannotti, Milanese with Milor.

Una passata edizione di Premiere a Oroarezzo
Una passata edizione di Premiere a Oroarezzo

In Arezzo, the fair develops through four pavilions dedicated to goldsmiths, jewelery, silverware, semi-finished products and stones. The goldsmith manufacturing represents almost 70% of the offer, of which 15% is international, while the more technological processing systems 18%, and Cash & Carry, opportunities for companies to sell promptly, over 12%.
Interno di OroArezzo
Booth a OroArezzo

According to the Banca Intesa Sanpaolo Study Center, the Arezzo goldsmith district recorded growth compared to the pre-crisis level equal to 23.5% on 2019 and is aimed at the main outlet countries of Made in Italy jewelery: North America, Middle East, South America, as well as Italian retailers. Oroarezzo also uses the Jewelery Golden Cloud, a digital platform prepared by Italian Exhibition Group and enhanced by an artificial intelligence system that facilitates targeted matching on fair days thanks to the detailed profiling of connected users.

Team room di Italian Exhibition Group a VicenzaOro
Team room di Italian Exhibition Group a VicenzaOro