gioielleria

A film for Serafino Consoli

The Serafino Consoli brand presents a video, The Shape of Life, which in addition to being a vehicle for communicating jewellery, aims to become a manifesto of the values and history of the brand. Set between Monte Rosa and the Circolo Filologico of Milan, the cultural center of the city, the video is performed by the German dancer and choreographer Anne Jung, with elements of dance and sport: she competed in the 1996 Atlanta Olympics.

The video is presented as testimony to the stylistic path undertaken by Serafino Consoli, a brand born in 1959 in a small jewelery shop in Northern Italy, in the province of Bergamo, which still bears the name of its founder today. The Brevetto and Serafino collections combine tradition and innovation: the technology introduced by the brand makes the jewelery extremely flexible, able to adapt to any size. In the Serafino collection, for example, the rings can be transformed into bracelets, with two ways of wearing the same jewel.

Serafino Consoli, bracciali e anelli
Serafino Consoli, bracelets and rings

With The Shape of Life we wanted to create a new and innovative communication product. For its production we identified young professionals who brought their creativity and fresh ideas to overcome the concept of the classic commercial. Together we thought of this project, then shot and edited into a real film-manifesto which, in a few minutes and without unnecessary frills, speaks, interprets and transmits the concepts of nature, human relationships, changes. Because the shape of life is changeable like our rings, which last forever, adapting to the passing of time. For us The Shape of Life is not a simple and classic marketing initiative, it is a project that aims to accompany us and represent us as a company and people, because it investigates and compares the sensitivity and beauty that is in each of us.
Ivan Consoli, CEO of Serafino Consoli

The film is produced by the independent creative&production company Jumpp, written and directed by Nicola Martini, under the executive creative direction of Giovanni Verdicchio. The photographic direction is by Luca Costantini, the music is by Daniele De Virgilio.

La locandina di The Shape of Life
The Shape of Life poster

The spring of Ribas Jewellery

Jewelery with a romantic design, inspired by the flower season: a classic jewelery tremble, proposed by Ribas Jewellery for spring 2024. Gold and diamonds are the classic ingredients of the recipe, with the addition of precious stones for a touch of colour. The brand, born in Tel Aviv in 2002 on the initiative of Patrik Ribas, carries the certification of the Israel Diamond Exchange, of which it is a member, as a guarantee of quality and competence: the city is one of the world’s diamond capitals. The company also has headquarters in Vilnius (Lithuania), creative offices in Tuscany and a flagship store in Florence.

Anello e collana con croce di Ribas Jewellery indossati
Ring and necklace with cross by Ribas Jewellery

The jewelry design is traditional, with tennis bracelets in white or yellow gold and eternity rings in yellow gold with diamonds and pink sapphires, to which are also added cross-shaped pendants studded with diamonds. More trendy are the piercings with two models, one in white gold on which there are three small flowers with diamonds and one in yellow gold with a central flower, where the four petals are made up of four 0.17 carat diamonds. The aim is to offer diamond jewelery at a relatively affordable price.
Bracciali tennis, collana con croce, orecchini e anelli in oro e diamanti
Tennis bracelets, necklace with cross, earrings and rings in gold and diamonds

Piercing in oro giallo e diamanti
Piercing in yellow gold and diamonds
Bracciale tennis in oro bianco e diamanti
Tennis bracelet in white gold and diamonds

Dave Meleski president of the Responsible Jewelery Council

Dave Meleski, president and CEO of Richline Group, has been elected president of the Responsible Jewelery Council. RJC is the leading authority on global watch and jewelery standards, working with its members around the world to create a sustainable supply chain from mine to retail. It was formed in 2005 by 14 top-tier brands and financial institutions with the goal of transforming sustainability from an afterthought to a major driving force for change. Today it has over 1,800 member companies in 71 countries. Meleski replaces David Bouffard who leaves the position, after being elected in 2018 for two three-year terms.

This is a critical time for RJC to continue to grow and lead the global supply chain in setting the standards for our industry. Richline has been involved at board and committee levels since the RJC’s inception, and as a global manufacturing company with retail customers around the world, we have helped promote the importance of the RJC as our single voice for compliance standards.
Dave Meleski

Dave Meleski
Dave Meleski

It has been an honor to serve as RJC President for six years – a truly challenging but rewarding experience of a lifetime, especially representing Signet, one of the RJC Founding Members. Companies like Signet and Richline, along with esteemed team members and boards of directors, have transformed the RJC over the past 20 years from an organization with 14 founding members when it launched in 2005 to an organization that grows stronger every month with over 1,800 members to date.
David Bouffard, outgoing RJC President and Signet Fellow of Industrial Affairs

David-Bouffard
David-Bouffard

Melanie Grant, executive director of the RJC, will report directly to Meleski. RJC would also like to thank Edward Asscher, honorary president of Asscher Diamonds, for volunteering to run for president and he will remain vice president of the organization.
Modella con gioielli
Model with jewelry

Ribas Jewelery PR goes to Clara Garcovich

Ribas Jewelery will be followed by the communication agency Clara Garcovich. For Ribas Jewellery, a jewelery and diamond company founded in 2002, the agency will manage all integrated and cross-media communication activities, with media relations activities, press office and PR, Digital PR, Events.
Ribas Jewelery was founded in 2002 in Tel Aviv by Patrik Ribas, thanks to his great experience in the diamond and jewelery sector it is now a company recognized worldwide. With headquarters in Vilnius, Lithuania, creative offices in Tuscany and a flagship store in Florence, Ribas Jewelery designs, creates, distributes and sells luxury gold jewelery made with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and other precious stones. The brand’s objective is to make diamonds accessible to everyone, thanks to an attractive starting price positioning, despite the great quality of the product guaranteed by the Israeli Diamond Exchange of which Ribas Jewelery is a member.

Ribas Jewelery today is undergoing strong expansion, with three mono-brand stores in Vilnius, a store in Kaunas and a flagship store in Italy in Florence, a reference benchmark. We have recently finalized another four new openings in the Baltic countries, but the Italian market is fundamental above all in terms of positioning, hence the collaboration with the Clara Garcovich agency which aims to develop a new strategic communication plan.
Patrick Ribas

Patrick Ribas
Patrick Ribas

The agency, founded in 2002 by Clara Garcovich, deals with PR and integrated communication with a multidisciplinary and unconventional approach, specializing in the fashion, beauty, jewellery, lifestyle, travel & hospitality, food & beverage, design & architecture, automotive and finance sectors, capable of proposing and develop made-to-measure strategies thanks to a creative and innovative team of experts in the language of communication. Starting from 2023, the agency has expanded its services by adding a new consultancy branch for the strategic development of brands.
Bracciali tennis
Tennis bracelets

Il flagship store di Ribas a Firenze
The Ribas flagship store in Florence

Women in the foreground with Ammanii

It is an unusual story that of Amany Shaker, who founded the Ammanii jewelry brand in 2015. She is Egyptian, she attended the American University in Cairo and obtained a Master’s Degree in Negotiational Conflict Resolution and Peacebuilding from California State University. Additionally, she created a social services program for parents and children affected by conflict. Finally, she was the Women’s Program Director of the International Church Of Christ in Los Angeles. And between Cairo and Los Angeles she carries out her creative activity in jewelry, inspired by her background in women’s empowerment.

Anello Queen in vermeil con crisoprasio
Queen ring in vermeil with chrysoprase

For example, with a desire to tell stories and unite women by transcending cultural barriers, the brand recently introduced the Malikat collection, named after the Arabic word Queens. A collection that explicitly refers to the movement for women’s emancipation with a tribute to the queens of ancient Egypt, who guided the country, led armies and unified the people. The collection includes earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings handmade in vermeil, i.e. gold-plated silver, with the addition of semi-precious stones such as chrysoprase, tourmaline or topaz. The jewels are sold online and in the USA.
Orecchini in vermeil con cubic zirconia
Vermeil earrings with cubic zirconia

Orecchini in vermeil con perle di acqua dolce, lapislazzuli e crisoprasio
Vermeil earrings with freshwater pearls, lapis lazuli and chrysoprase
Orecchini in vermeil con perle di acqua dolce
Vermeil earrings with freshwater pearls
Anello amuleto scarabeo in vermeil con tormalina rosa e topazio
Scarab amulet ring in vermeil with pink tourmaline and topaz

The goddess Aphrodite for Atelier Vm

«Aphrodite represents the irresistible power of love and the impulse to sexuality which are at the root of life itself. In every living creature the goddess, if she wants, knows how to ignite desire, which proceeds like a fire, overturning every rule”: words of Plato. More commonly, Aphrodite for the ancient Greeks or Venus for the Romans was the goddess of love and beauty, who reigns over emotions in spring and brings couples together.

Anelli della collezione Afrodite indossati
Rings from the Aphrodite collection

The mythological goddess lives again in the Aphrodite collection of the Milanese brand Atelier Vm. Three jewels that are part of this line: a necklace in 18 or 9 carat yellow gold, with a curb chain, adjustable size between 42 and 40 centimeters, with a price of 640 euros (720 pounds, 800 dollars). The Aphrodite ring is in 9 carat yellow gold and ruby (price 300 euros, 340 pounds or 400 dollars). Finally, the Aphrodite earring, in 18k yellow gold and freshwater pearl (price: 160 euros, 180 pounds or 200 dollars).
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati e perla d’acqua dolce
Earrings in 18k yellow gold and freshwater pearl

Collana Afrodite in oro giallo 18  carati indossata
Aphrodite necklace in 18k yellow gold
Collana Afrodite
18k yellow gold necklace

The Progol3D Design Contest with Bulgari

New edition of the international competition aimed at the most important design schools in the jewelery world. Promoting the initiative is Progold, a Vicenza-based company specialized in the production and marketing of alloys and master alloys for jewellery. Objective: to push the gold and jewelery sector towards a more sustainable future thanks to the use of innovative technologies.

Damiano Zito
Damiano Zito, Ceo Progold

For the 2024 edition, the eighth, the competition will be able to make use of a prestigious partnership: Bulgari. The Roman Maison takes the field alongside Progold to support the creativity, technical competence and growth opportunity that this contest represents for the young generations. The theme identified for 2024 will be B-Evolution, a new life for the jewel inspired by the industrial universe seen through the eyes of Bulgari. A hymn to the power of creativity that blends movement and innovation in a unique piece of craftsmanship. Participants in the Progol3D Design Contest are asked to submit drawings or digital images of a jewel designed to be produced entirely through 3D printing. The projects must interpret new ways of thinking about jewelery and encourage progress: this is why the competition provides the design community with an excellent opportunity to visualize innovation-oriented ideas in the jewelery production of the future.

The eighth edition will also see the consolidation of a collaboration also had in the previous edition, the one with Platinum Guild International, an international organization that has at heart the development and sharing of technological knowledge to innovate the platinum jewelery sector as well as to promote its use and marketing. Participating will be over 150 projects designed by 74 students from seven schools from six countries. The technical jury is made up of experts from Progold, Bulgari and Platinum Guild International, who will select the winners who will have the opportunity to see their idea realized.
The award ceremony for the design contest is scheduled for January 21st during Vicenzaoro in the Palladio room – Hall 8 – at 3.30 pm.

President wanted for the RJC

Looking for president to deal with sustainability in the jewelery industry. If you are interested, you can contact the Responsible Jewelery Council, the world’s leading organization in defining sustainability standards for the sector. The new president will have to replace David Bouffard, who will leave on 30 April 2024 after six years. The identikit of the new president, capable of leading the team and board members into the future, includes a clear vision of the evolving landscape of the entire supply chain, from mining to retail, fine jewelery and watchmaking.

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Roberto Coin
Jewelery manufacturing in the Roberto Coin atelier

The appointment of the new RJC president is held as a special election and separately from the organisation’s main board elections. The search will conclude on Saturday 27 January, while the vote will take place in February 2024 and the new RJC president will be elected in March, when the handover with Bouffard will begin.

It has been an honor to serve as Chair of the RJC for almost six years – a truly rewarding experience given that I have been involved in the RJC from the beginning, with Signet as a founding member. The entire team and board of directors have transformed RJC from an organization consisting of 14 founding members when it launched in 2005, to an organization that is growing strong with over 1,700 members to date. As we search for a new President, I am confident that RJC has the best leadership for this new era in Executive Director Melanie Grant, who has over 20 years of experience and is internationally regarded as a leading authority on jewellery.
David Bouffard

David-Bouffard
David-Bouffard

RJC was formed in 2005 by 14 top brands and financial institutions with the goal of transforming sustainability from a sideshow to a major driver of change. Today we have over 1,700 member companies in 71 countries.
Melanie Grant
Melanie Grant, executive director RJC

C & C, accomplished revolution

C & C Gioielli continues on its way with collections that are an evolution of the goldsmith tradition of Valenza, such as Archetipe II, The Evolution ♦

Valenza vs rest of the world: it is not a game, but a long race. No doubt the Piedmont area is an inexhaustible source of talent and there are companies who can use them, as in the case of C&C Gioielli, which in 2015 has made the 15 years since the breakthrough. The mark, in fact, was refounded by Antonello Cocuzza with a radical process of its business model. Valenza has a goldsmith tradition, but it needs also of the ability to stay in step with the time from an industrial point of view. In a nutshell: craftsmanship translated on a scale capable of competing with other brands.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Ring in rose gold and diamonds

But this to anyone who wants to wear jewel matters little. What he wants is a beautiful jewel, at a fair price. And speaking of fairness, it should be emphasized also the commitment of C&C Gioielli for the use of “conflict-free” stones, that is obtained with the respect of the ethical principles that agree to the Western world. An additional pleasure for the wearer. The style: classic. rose gold, white gold, diamonds. Some semi-precious stones, such as topaz, or nacre and rock crystal.
Anello con topazio e diamanti
Ring with topaz and diamonds

Orecchini della collezione Domino con diamanti e finitura opaca
Earrings from the Domino collection with diamonds and matte finish
Pendente Orecchini della collezione Domino in oro rosa con diamanti
Pendant earrings from the Domino collection in rose gold with diamonds
Anello Colori d'Oriente in oro giallo e diamanti bianchi e brown
Colori d’Oriente ring in yellow gold and white and brown diamonds
Bracciale Colori d'Oriente in oro rosa e zaffiri rosa
Colori d’Oriente bracelet in rose gold and pink sapphires
anello oro bianco
Ring in white gold and marquise cut diamond
Collezione Colori d'Oriente, anello in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Colori d’Oriente collection, ring in white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Anelli della collezione Archetipe II, the Evolution. Oro bianco, diamanti e lapislazzulo, oro rosa e diamanti bianchi
Rings from the Archetipe II, the Evolution collection. White gold, diamonds and lapis lazuli, rose gold and white diamonds

How to behave in a jewelry store

Do you want to buy a jewel? Know that jewelers judge your behavior and may be more or less available. Here’s what not to do when you enter a jewelery store ♦

What a jeweler thinks of you when you go into his store? You must know it: it’s important. Often between customer and jeweler there is a relationship that lasts for years: the engagement ring, the watch as a gift, the necklace for wedding anniversary… But, as with all businesses, even a good relationship may fall apart. A jewelry salesman does his job, and you have to do yours. So, you must remind what the jeweler wants from you. These six points summarize what is expected from you.

La boutique Repossi, a Parigi
The Repossi boutique, in Paris

1 Even if the jeweler has a friendly relationship with you, do not forget it’s anyway a commercial activity. At the end of the day the jeweler look at what he earned. So, do not take the jeweler for a consultant or expert to consult casually. Many, for example, get into a store to ask for a value on a jewel that, maybe, they want to sell. It is not an attitude pleasing to the jeweler, unless he sold you that piece. Bring into the store a ring or a necklace purchased elsewhere may be fine once, if you are regular customers, but no more. Probably your jeweler has a same item you are asking to evaluate: showing a competitor’s product may irritate him.

Non sottovalutate l'esperienza
Don’t underestimate the experience

2 The jeweler seeks to identify customer’s financial resources and on this basis propose rings, necklaces or earrings that can satisfy the needs. If he is a good professional, he’ll be able to offer a good price too. In return, however, he expects loyalty from the customer. It may be benefit for both parties.

L'interno di Harry Winston, a New York
The interior of Harry Winston, New York

3 Certainly, those who buy a jewel is not a jeweler or a gemologist. But jewelers are bothered by the complete ignorance on the subject. They will be ready to explain the characteristics of an object that you like and why its price. In return they expect the customer to understand why a piece of jewelry is more expensive than another, or more simple differences between different diamonds (of course, reading here helps you ). Then, if the client has some knowledge of basic the jeweler is more positive and, perhaps, more flexible about the price.

Tiffany, a New York
Tiffany, New York

4 Regarding the price: when you look at a price tag, keep in mind how much it costs to set a warehouse, buy gold, precious stones, conceive original jewelry, charge the craftsmen for manufacturing. Manage a jewelry store, especially small ones, is a substantial investment in terms of capital equipment, that it is there in the form of rings and necklaces. The jeweler expects you to realize that keeping a store of precious is not how to run a bakery.

collana
Necklace for sale

5 Before getting into a jewelry store is good to be clear how much you are willing to spend. An uncertain idea about financial resources makes difficult for the jeweler, determine what is the most suitable product for you. In any case, aimless expect high quality jewelry on a budget too low.

gioiel-1
A look at the window

6 The jewels are delicate and wear and tear. Necklaces, rings and bracelets needs regular maintenance and cleaning. Most jewelers cleans what you bought in their store for free. Others even offer a warranty on their products. But you must not believe that the jewels can last forever. It is not said. Household chores or every day life can ruin your jewels. And even a diamond, in certain conditions, may deteriorate. Do not blame your jeweler.

Gioielleria a Shanghai
Jewelry store in Shanghai

The unique pieces of Lotus Arts de Vivre

Jewels inspired by the exuberant Thai nature of Lotus Arts de Vivre ♦ ︎

The Bueren family, of German origin, moved to Bangkog in 1962 and founded Lotus Arts de Vivre. The initiative of Helen von Bueren was then continued by her sons Sri and Nicki. Unlike what one might imagine, the Maison’s goal was not to use the artisan skills of Thai goldsmiths to create European-style jewels at a lower cost. The jewels of Lotus Arts de Vivre are, instead, artistic creations that preserve the culture of ancient Siam, the Asian tradition and are inspired by the beauties of nature.

Lotus Arts de Vivre, Wing earrings con ali di scarabeo, diamanti, tormalina
Lotus Arts de Vivre, Wing earrings with beetle wings, diamonds, tourmaline

Born as a hobby, the Maison founded of Helen von Bueren has grown to become a success story. With no need to advertise, Lotus Arts de Vivre achieved success mainly through word of mouth. The brand is also committed to producing its creations with the largest possible number of natural materials, with the aim of transferring the beauty of nature to jewelry. For example, next to metals and precious stones, sometimes jewels use seeds, claws, walnuts, coconut shells, purebred skin, ostrich and emu eggs, beetle wings, ebony and teal woods, shells, bamboo and rattan.
Collana con colletto del periodo Meiji dell'inizio del XX secolo presenta un design intricato ornato con quattro forcine per capelli laccate giapponesi, diamanti baguette e tsavoriti verdi, incastonati su piastre di argento sterling rodiato nero
Early 20th century Meiji period collar necklace features an intricate design adorned with four Japanese lacquer hairpins, baguette diamonds, and green tsavorites, set on black rhodium-plated sterling silver plates

Lotus Arts de Vivre is also proud to have resisted the temptation to enter mass production: instead, it remains a predominantly one-of-a-kind jewelery manufacturer. But, in addition to jewelery, he has also extended production to home decorations, cutlery, travel accessories, sunglasses, new and antique furniture, shoes, belts, rugs produced in Kashmir.

Orecchini con diamanti, tormalina rosa, scarabeo
Earrings with diamonds, pink tourmaline, scarab
Orecchini con perle barocche, diamanti, rubini
Earrings with baroque pearls, diamonds, rubies
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti en tremblant
Earrings with emeralds and tremblant diamonds
Orecchini con torace di scarabeo, oro, diamanti, argento
Scarab thorax earrings, gold, diamonds, silver
Orecchini di conchiglia intagliati in oro rosa 9 carati
9K Rose Gold Carved Shell Earrings

The animals on Goshwara Ark

Goshwara, a New York-based high jewelry house specializing in collections based on colored gems, launches the Ark collection, which includes a series of jewels inspired by the wonders of nature. And, in particular, with jewels that interpret the animal kingdom, capturing its essence in a range of sapphires, rubies, diamonds and tsavorites. Featuring a curated selection of meticulously crafted animal-inspired brooch/pendant necklaces, each piece showcases the exceptional artistry of Sweta Jain, the designer who launched Goshwara in 2005. An inspiration that the creator fueled with her trips to Africa in search of gems. The jewels celebrate the animals that populate the planet, swim in the seas and soar in the skies.

Pendente aquila
Eagle pendent. Multi Sapphire & Blue Sapphire Cab Eagle Brooch/Pendant in 18K Yellow Gold

I wanted to focus on the beauty and diversity of animals, while raising awareness about animal welfare and promoting kindness towards them. Today more than ever, it’s important to protect our environment. And being humane to animals is correlated to that. In addition, saving some of the species will give the future generations a chance to enjoy the beauty of these animals the way we had an opportunity to. To that effect, a part of the proceeds from the sale of pieces from the Ark Collection will be donated to animal and environment-related charities.
Sweta Jain, founder of Goshwara

Pendente coccodrillo
Pendentif crocodile. Multi Sapphire & Onyx Crocodile Pendant in 18K Yellow Gold

For example, the cheetah-shaped pendant brooch from the Ark collection interprets the speed and grace of the feline, while the elephant recalls the wisdom of the great pachyderm. But the collection also includes a jewel dedicated to pets, such as dogs. Furthermore, Ark includes pendant brooches with turtle, fish and, for animals with wings, there are dragonfly, owl, eagle.

Pendente libellula indossato
Dragonfly pendant. Multi Sapphire, Ruby & Amethyst Cabochon Brooch/Pendant with Diamonds in 18K Yellow Gold
Pendente ghepardo
Cheetah pendant. Multi Sapphire & Onyx Cheetah Brooch/Pendant in 18K Yellow Gold
Pendente elefante indossato
Elephant pendant. Multi Sapphire Elephant Brooch/Pendant with Diamonds in 18K Yellow Gold. Approx. Stone Wt: (Multi Sapphire) 3.23 Cts, (Diamonds) 0.15 Cts. (White Agate tusks)
Pendente tucano indossato
Toucan pendant. Multi Sapphire Elephant Brooch/Pendant with Diamonds in 18K Yellow Gold. Approx. Stone Wt: (Multi Sapphire) 3.23 Cts, (Diamonds) 0.15 Cts. (White Agate tusks)

New website for Federorafi

New site, new graphics and new claim for the website of Federorafi, Italian Federation of Goldsmiths, Silversmiths, Jewelers and Manufacturers, an association led by Claudia Piaserico and part of the Confindustria galaxy: it brings together over 500 companies, with more than 6 thousand employees concentrated in the industrial districts of Vicenza, Arezzo, Valenza, Milan, Naples and Torre del Greco. The site was designed and created by Meneghini & Associati Inventia, an integrated communications agency, which also coined the claim: Industries of value. The intent is to underline the production process, structured, organized, and with a strong orientation towards innovation of the goldsmith companies that are part of it. And the value lies in the raw materials used, but also in the skill of processing metals and precious stones.

The site navigation experience is functional to the challenges that the gold sector will have to face in the coming years, from innovation and internationalisation. Without forgetting the need to recruit young people in a sector that unfairly suffers from little appeal for those entering the world of work. A section of the site is reserved for members to encourage meetings with new partners, also with the aim of opening a permanent discussion table between brands and manufacturing companies. The new projects on which the Federorafi Board intends to concentrate its commitment are highlighted: from sustainability, with the transparency and traceability of products, to respect for legality to combat actions that can affect the entrepreneurial fabric. The goldsmith sector is interpreted as one of the greatest expressions of Made in Italy precisely because it is able to transfer its creativity to the processing of precious metal.

The jewelery industry continues its run

Measuring the heartbeat of the jewelry industry in Italy. This is the objective of the periodic survey of the Italian Goldsmiths’ Club, carried out by Intesa Sanpaolo, the largest Italian bank. And the fourth edition of the investigation, presented as part of Vicenzaoro, took a photograph in pink tones, the color of optimism as well as of the female world. In summary, 39% of the operators consulted in the survey expect an increase in turnover in 2023, more or less the same as at the end of 2022. Positive expectations also for investments, expected to grow by one operator out of three, with peaks of 42% for larger companies. As confirmation, the jewelry sector in the first six months of the year grew in terms of turnover (+10.2%), better than the fashion system and the Italian manufacturing average. And in the first five months of 2023, gold jewelry exports exceeded 4 billion euros, up 9% in value and 2% in quantity.

The June edition of the survey on the sentiment of entrepreneurs in the gold sector confirms once again the positive forecasts, especially for medium-large companies and for the foreign market. Despite the uncertainty, one out of three companies has decided to increase investments: with this, smaller companies aim to respond to the ever-changing competitive context. For medium-large companies, the inclination to invest is mainly linked to the evolution of international markets and to technological and machinery updating. In consideration of the dynamism of the Italian sector in this particular historical phase, with the questionnaire we wanted to investigate the distinctive characteristics of Made in Italy considered most important by entrepreneurs, and the mix that emerges is extremely interesting, as is the cross-reading with the the list of critical issues reported. This double level of interpretation strongly brings out a crucial theme: the challenge of the lack of skilled labor represents a critical issue that directly impacts on the very concept of Made in Italy. It is confirmed that it is essential to tackle this problem in a strategic and collaborative way, promoting adequate training and the development of skills, in order to preserve the identity and value of Italian excellence on the international scene.
Giorgio Villa, President of the Italian Goldsmiths’ Club

Giorgio Villa, presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia e Stefania Trenti, Responsabile Industry Research, Direzione Studi e Ricerche Intesa Sanpaolo sul palco di Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Giorgio Villa, president of the Italian Goldsmiths’ Club and Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research, Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department on the Vicenzaoro stage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In short, Made in Italy jewelry is in good health. A success which, according to the companies questioned, derives from the quality of the product (74%), the craftsmanship of the production (66%) and the professionalism of the workforce, which represents a key factor for more than half of those who replied (51% ). But this is also the weak point: there is a shortage of qualified manpower. Finding labor is perceived as an obstacle by 75% of medium-large companies.
Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Crieri
Jewelery manufacturing in the Crieri atelier

After the brilliant results of 2022 with growth in turnover and exports in the order of 20% and even in a context of economic slowdown, the Italian gold sector continues to show a positive trend in 2023 with growth in turnover in the first six months of 10%, better than what was recorded by the fashion system (+7.2%) and manufacturing as a whole (+3.0%); also in terms of production, the sector shows stability with a value in line with the first half of 2022. The high competitiveness on foreign markets is confirmed as the driving force of the sector: in the period January-May 2023, gold jewelery exports well over 4 billion euros, up 8.6% in value and +1.6% in quantity. In this particular competitive context, the positioning of the sector, more oriented towards the high-end segment, has confirmed itself as a strength capable of capturing the demand for luxury goods which is less affected by the effects of inflationary tensions with prospects that remain positive. The uncertainty in the scenario remains high, but this sector has shown a good ability to respond to external tensions thanks to a production system that has been able to transform itself over time, gaining competitiveness: to face the challenges of the near future it will be important to continue investing with interventions aimed at supporting sustainability in all its forms (economic, environmental and social).
Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research, Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Roberto Coin
Jewelery manufacturing in the Roberto Coin atelier

RJC Sustainability Toolkit

The Responsible Jewelery Council offers the first ESG (Environmental, social, and corporate governance) toolkit to association members. The Responsible Jewelery Council is a non-profit, standard-setting and certifying organization with approximately 1700 member companies working in the jewelery supply chain from gem mining to retail. The objective of the toolkit is to extend the commitment to comply with ESG standards to all members, providing all the information necessary for sustainable procurement, the mapping of the COP, i.e. the Conference of Parties, the annual meeting of the countries that have ratified the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, and of the SDGs, Sustainable Development Goals, i.e. the sustainable development objectives. It is a collection of 17 interconnected goals designed to be a shared blueprint for peace and prosperity for people and the planet.

Esg toolkit
Esg toolkit

The toolkit analyzes the scope and scope of all ESG reporting in an effort to equip RJC members with the knowledge to make an informed decision based on individual business needs. The Responsible Jewelery Council also points out that according to a McKinsey study, by 2025, 20-30% of global fine jewelery sales will be influenced by sustainability considerations, from environmental impact to ethical sourcing practices. This equates to a $110 billion business, which represents a three- to four-fold increase in sustainability-influenced purchases since 2019.
Estrazione di un rubino in Groenlandia
Extraction of a ruby in Greenland

We are today with sustainability where we were with digital transformation 20 years ago. Those who embraced it thrived but also gained new and younger clients, those who dismissed it in many ways got left behind. Sustainability is the greatest single issue facing watches and jewellery today, and I want to help everyone understand what they can do to be part this movement.
Melanie Grant, executive director, Responsible Jewelery Council

Melanie Grant
Melanie Grant

New opening and generational change for the Colombo Jewelery

Together with the opening of the new Colombo Jewelery Boutique in the heart of Monza, the Lombard company is renewing its management. The distribution company based in Casatenovo (Lecco), which distributes brands such as Rolex, Pomellato, Leo Pizzo, Chanel, Mikimoto and many others, now also sees the business of his daughters Caterina and Benedetta Colombo alongside Dario Colombo. Gioielleria Colombo was founded in 1948 and with Dario Colombo it has become over time a point of reference in the area. The opening of the new Boutique in the heart of the city of Monza is scheduled for the summer weeks, while Caterina and Benedetta Colombo bear witness to the generational turnover, but following the path already traced. Caterina, born in 1996, works as a commercial director, while Benedetta is the marketing manager.

La location della nuova boutique a Monza
La location della nuova boutique a Monza

Summit at Harvard University on sustainable jewelry

Jewelery and the environment, society, sustainability. By now, even the world of luxury is paying attention to the issues of equity and solidarity. An Answer is the first collaboration between The Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC), The Mineralogical and Geological Museum of Harvard University (MGMH), and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The collaboration is reflected in an event scheduled for June 23 at Harvard University, Cambridge, Massachusetts. Three leaders come together to explore the challenges, opportunities and future of responsible practice at the State of the Art Jewelry Summit.

Metamorphosis, spilla by Wallace Chan. Courtesy of the artist
Metamorphosis brooch by Wallace Chan. Courtesy of the artist

Climate change and its implications on the supply chain, the business of technology and evolving consumer expectations: this unique day of panel discussions and presentations from global experts, academics and artists will share valuable insights into the value and desire they fuel the responsible jewels. Human rights, risk and conflict are also present and the day will conclude with representatives of the Young Diamantaires project discussing the future of the sector through the eyes of those who will inherit it.

Expertise al laboratorio Gia di Bangkog
GIA Laboratory Bangkok, Field Expedition

Three women will host the summit: Melanie Grant, RJC Executive Director, Susan Jacques, President and CEO Gia, and Raquel Alonso-Perez Ph.D, Curatrix, MGMH at Harvard University. The line-up of speakers includes artist-jeweler and inventor Wallace Chan, Lucara Diamond president and CEO Eira Thomas, Harvard environmental science and engineering professor Dan Schrag, who will deliver the keynote address.

Miniera di Chivor, in Colombia
Chivor mine, Colombia

RJC will launch its first Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) toolkit at the summit, which will be available free of charge to all attendees. It is a project for applying concepts such as environment, social and governance to jewelry companies globally. The summit will bring together all sectors of the gem and jewelery industry to shape a collective approach and understanding of responsible jewellery. There will be a chance to network, brainstorm, listen and learn from current and future leaders at one of the world’s premier centers of learning, Harvard University.

Analisi al laboratorio Gia di Bangkok
Analysis at the Gia laboratory in Bangkok

I am thrilled that MGMH at Harvard University is hosting its first Responsible Jewelry Summit in partnership with RJC and Gia. Our mission is to unite art, science and industry so that we can face the future together. Growth must be more than economic.
Raquel Alonso-Perez, curator, Mineralogical and Geological Museum, Harvard University

Collana di by Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz, 1876. Courtesy of the Tanzanite Foundation
Necklace by Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz, 1876. Courtesy of the Tanzanite Foundation

Nature seen through Nicholas Varney’s eyes

The jewels of great design by Nicholas Varney, one of the top jewels of the moment ♦

Among the designers who in recent years have reached quotations at the top there is Nicholas Varney. Being born in a rich environment, also from an aesthetic point of view, it meant something in his training. The father of Nicholas, in fact, is the owner of Dorothy Draper, who is an interior designer company in New York considered very anti-minimalist. He, however, decided to break away from the family and living in Palm Beach. But the taste for the richness of the elements that make up something, remained.

Organic forms, like fish and plants, but also abstract and geometric shapes characterize its jewels.

Set di orecchini e spilla a forma di nespola in oro e diamanti fancy
Set of earrings and medlar-shaped brooch in gold and fancy diamonds

He do not works about environments, luxurious homes of wealthy Americans, but he is dedicated to the richness as composite jewelry, with the choice of unusual precious and semi precious stones. To be clear: her jewelry can cost several tens of thousands of dollars. They are, in short, for an audience of connoisseurs, who loves the colors, the combinations and metaphors. One of favorite subject of Nicholas Varney is the sea, but also the waters of the Mississippi River, Colorado. Surrounded for years by floral wallpaper and plush furnishings, also he has that typically American taste to mix a bit ‘styles. Eclecticism? It depends on your point of view. Here are some examples of his work.

Orecchini in oro giallo e cacholong
Earrings in yellow gold and cacholong
Anello in oro giallo e acquamarina
Yellow gold and aquamarine ring
Anello in legno, oro e acquamarina
Wood, gold and aquamarine ring
Anello con smeraldo e diamanti
Emerald and diamond ring
Anelli con perle naturali di colore diverso
Rings with natural pearls of different colors
Orecchini con perle e diamanti
Earrings with pearls and diamonds 

Oroarezzo renews the spaces

New exhibition layout for Oroarezzo, the fair organized by the Italian Exhibition Group dedicated to companies in the gold, silver and Made in Italy jewelery sector (Arezzo Fiere e Congressi from 13 to 16 May). Ieg has rethought the exhibition itinerary, which will be centered on itineraries that aim to offer a better organization of the product communities and improve the visitor-buyer experience.

Visitatori a Oroarezzo
Visitatori a Oroarezzo

For this edition, exhibitors are up by 15% compared to 2022. Goldsmith, silversmith and jeweler manufacturing, together with semi-finished products and components, represents 65% of the offer, 90% Made in Italy, with a representative selection also of the best of foreign production districts. Among the jewelery brands present, Moraglione, F.A. Jewels and Stefano&C of the gold district of Valenza. There is no shortage of machinery and technology companies for the gold sector, precious and semi-precious stones, packaging and visual merchandising services, as well as the usual area dedicated to cash & carry for retailers.

Oroarezzo 2019
Oroarezzo 2019

The jewelry industry wants to hire young people. That’s why it can’t find them




Do you want to work in the jewelry world? Come on, there’s room. Especially for young people who want to learn the ancient art of working with gold, setting gems and designing. The invitation comes from the Italian sector associations: companies are looking for new professional resources.
According to Confindustria Federorafi, the Italian Exhibition Group (the company that organizes Vicenzaoro), which involved the site Skuola.net, the figures are unequivocal: Italian exports in November 2022 came close to 9 billion euros (8.98 million euros) with an increase of 22.1% over the same period of 2021 and 40.6% over 2019, pre-covid. The data, the companies point out, is of great importance for a sector that exports 89.5% of its turnover.

Marco Carniello, Global Exhibition Director Jewellery & Fashion di Italian Exhibition Group
Marco Carniello, Global Exhibition Director Jewellery & Fashion di Italian Exhibition Group

And forecasts are also brilliant (the right adjective): sector turnover forecasts for 2022 indicate an absolute record of 10.9 billion euros, despite a slowdown in recent months. The export of Italian jewelery is mainly directed to the USA (+13.9%), Switzerland (+20.9%) and the Emirates (+20.9%), while the covid restrictions have only slowed down Hong Kongs (-0.5%). The economic surveys on a sample of companies also indicate a positive sentiment for the first half of 2023, both for turnover and for employees: 36% of the companies interviewed believe they will hire other employees. The Italian world of jewelery involves 30,619 people (58% women).
Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia
Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia

In short, great satisfaction. But up to a certain point, because the more than 7,100 Italian companies in the sector cannot find specialized personnel. Worse still, over half of the employed will be of retirement age in less than ten years and only 13% of the employed are under the age of 30. The thriving goldsmith business is little perceived by young people, it has no appeal. Yet there is no shortage of specialized schools: there are almost 40 institutes providing training, but the number of graduate students is still insufficient compared to the demand from companies, which are looking for around 3,000 people to hire overall.

Our school system has one tenth of technical graduates compared to Germany. A training and information effort by school principals, teachers and counselors is needed, starting from secondary school, to acquire all the elements and all the useful information to be transferred to the students, making the most of the many opportunities in professional and salary terms that the sector also of the precious it can offer. At the same time, the business system must be more open and communicate better.
Claudia Piaserico, President of Confindustria Federorafi

Claudia Piaserico, presidente di Federorafi
Claudia Piaserico, presidente di Federorafi

Here, exactly. Because if the world of jewelery attracts little, it is also because it often communicates a dusty image. Old. Obsolete. Not all companies, please. The big brands, the companies that compete on foreign markets with the finished product, not with the semi-finished products, have a different way of approaching the world of work. But of the 7,100 companies mentioned, those of international level are no more than a hundred, perhaps much much less. Just look at the gallery of horrors of dated, old, out-of-date corporate websites. Can anyone who sells a refined product afford to offer a website that has been stopped for years as a business card? Who doesn’t explain, doesn’t introduce himself, doesn’t offer any point of interest for a young person? And we are also talking about companies that produce fine jewelry. But who wants to go to work in a company that has no interest in informing about its business? Not to mention the many micro-companies that don’t have a website either.
Gioielli Zancan, laboratorio
Gioielli Zancan, laboratorio

We also want to talk about what these companies offer to a young person? And not just from a salary point of view. If working in a goldsmith industry means facing a repetitive, unstimulating task, then the choice depends only on the salary. A young man will go where he earns the most. Point. How many jewelery companies also present themselves with prospects for professional growth, creativity, with a stimulating environment?
Lavorazione artigianale nel laboratorio di Luigi Sala Gioielli
Lavorazione artigianale nel laboratorio di Luigi Sala Gioielli

In any case, the goldsmith industries are looking for young people to hire. For this reason, Federorafi has created for the first time a mapping of schools and institutes with goldsmith courses. Not only that, the association has also defined the most sought-after professional profiles such as goldsmith, cashier, engraver, gemologist, cleaner, 3D printing expert, numerical control machine expert, designer, digital media specialist and organized the first Orientation day during Vicenzaoro and will also activate a platform to facilitate the matching between supply and demand. Furthermore, Federorafi, in collaboration with Vicenzaoro, has launched a partnership with Skuola.net to open a channel with students. Excellent initiative. But, at the same time, Federorafi could also do some training for its associates.
Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili
Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili







1 2 3 5