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Vicenzaoro January kicks off

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Collana e anello Rise of Sun indossati. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Italian jewelery exports in the first nine months of 2023 increased by 11.3%, to over 8 billion euros, despite the slowdown in the third quarter of 2023 (+4.2% compared to 13.7% in the second quarter and to 16.2% of the first). Federorafi’s photography, processed by the Confindustria Moda Study Center and Istat data, marks the context in which the seventieth edition of Vicenzaoro January – The Jewelery Boutique Show (19-23 January) opens. The event organized by Ieg presents, for the occasion, a logo dedicated to the anniversary and an iconographic exhibition among the pavilions at the Fair. This edition registers over 1,300 exhibiting brands from 37 countries. Vicenzaoro is flanked by T.Gold, dedicated to jewelery technologies, and the fifth edition of VO Vintage, an event open to the public of vintage watch and jewelery enthusiasts.

Vicenzaoro 2023
Vicenzaoro 2023

Above all, business is at the center: 40% of the buyers come from abroad, in total over 500 buyers hosted thanks to the support of the network of Ice offices (state export agency). The main destination markets of jewelery or semi-finished products are Switzerland (15% of the total, +31.2% on the same period of 2022), the United States (13.4%, +5.3%) and France (10.2%, +15, 8). However, Germany, the United Kingdom, South Africa and Canada are decreasing, while the decline towards Russia and Ukraine obviously continues (-24.6%). In the first nine months of 2023, the cumulative turnover figure of Italian companies grew by 8.1%.

Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 years logo
Vicenzaoro September 2023, espositori
Vicenzaoro September 2023, exhibitors

 

The Progol3D Design Contest with Bulgari

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Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia

New edition of the international competition aimed at the most important design schools in the jewelery world. Promoting the initiative is Progold, a Vicenza-based company specialized in the production and marketing of alloys and master alloys for jewellery. Objective: to push the gold and jewelery sector towards a more sustainable future thanks to the use of innovative technologies.

Damiano Zito
Damiano Zito, Ceo Progold

For the 2024 edition, the eighth, the competition will be able to make use of a prestigious partnership: Bulgari. The Roman Maison takes the field alongside Progold to support the creativity, technical competence and growth opportunity that this contest represents for the young generations. The theme identified for 2024 will be B-Evolution, a new life for the jewel inspired by the industrial universe seen through the eyes of Bulgari. A hymn to the power of creativity that blends movement and innovation in a unique piece of craftsmanship. Participants in the Progol3D Design Contest are asked to submit drawings or digital images of a jewel designed to be produced entirely through 3D printing. The projects must interpret new ways of thinking about jewelery and encourage progress: this is why the competition provides the design community with an excellent opportunity to visualize innovation-oriented ideas in the jewelery production of the future.

The eighth edition will also see the consolidation of a collaboration also had in the previous edition, the one with Platinum Guild International, an international organization that has at heart the development and sharing of technological knowledge to innovate the platinum jewelery sector as well as to promote its use and marketing. Participating will be over 150 projects designed by 74 students from seven schools from six countries. The technical jury is made up of experts from Progold, Bulgari and Platinum Guild International, who will select the winners who will have the opportunity to see their idea realized.
The award ceremony for the design contest is scheduled for January 21st during Vicenzaoro in the Palladio room – Hall 8 – at 3.30 pm.

Young designers in Vicenzaoro with The8

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Anello di Roshanak Payrovi

Together with VicenzaOro January, the new The8 project is taking shape, dedicated to IED students in Rome and Turin. The competition was promoted by Labigem, the Italian Gemology Laboratory, in 2023. The idea is to promote initiatives to link training and industry, with the aim of discovering and giving an international showcase to new jewelery talents.
The two curators of the project are prominent: Alessia Crivelli and Alessio Boschi. The The8 project features four young emerging designers who will exhibit in the Design Room (Hall 7) of Vicenzaoro with the aim of linking education and the jewelery industry.

Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The young people selected are Igor Quagliata, 26 years old, graduated from the IED in Rome, who creates colored surfaces in titanium, precious stones and combinations of contrasting gold. Another young designer is the Iranian Roshanak Payrovi, who after her master’s degree in Jewelery Design in Arezzo has deepened the micromosaic technique to the point of making it her stylistic signature in jewellery. Antonia Ascolillo, a student at the IED in Rome, focuses on textures and metallic coatings of organic surfaces inspired by cellular tissues and Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo, a 22-year-old Colombian, now with roots in Milan and winner in 2023 of the Digital Jewelry Week (reserved for designers under 35 and promoted, among others, by Vicenzaoro) is inspired by the Colombian city of Cartagena de Indias.
Floweye, Antonia Ascolillo
Floweye, Antonia Ascolillo

The8 will involve all the professional schools, universities or masters of Jewelery Design every year, who will present the most interesting students and projects. Results communicated in the September edition of the Ieg show to start the process of sponsorship and valorisation of the selected participants.
Antonia Ascolillo
Antonia Ascolillo

GIoiello di Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Jewel by Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Igor Quagliata
Igor Quagliata
Gioiello di Igor Quagliata
Jewel by Igor Quagliata
Roshanak Payrovi
Roshanak Payrovi
Anello di Roshanak Payrovi
Anello di Roshanak Payrovi

The Vicenzaoro January program

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Vicenzaoro logo

Countdown to the new edition of Vicenzaoro January. A special edition, given that the fair dedicated to jewelery turns 70. The event organized by Ieg is scheduled from Friday 19th to Tuesday 23rd January at the Vicenza Fair, together with T.Gold (machines for goldsmithing) and VO Vintage, the event open to the public dedicated to watchmaking and at the vintage jewelry store (January 19-22). As in previous editions, the program includes appointments, workshops and interventions by experts. The complete program can be found here.
And, as always, Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, an independent IEG observatory directed by Paola De Luca, which explores sector trends. This year Trendvision will be accompanied by Mariella Milani, Rai journalist, Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director Bulgari, Alessia Crivelli, director of the Maison of the same name and founder of Mani Intelligenti Foundation, and Amedeo Scognamiglio, one of the two founders of Faraone Mennella and Amedeo’s Jewelry.

Vicenzaoro January 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro January 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also scheduled is a talk on the creativity of jewelery with Assogemme, the creative director Olga Corsini. Jewelery and business will be at the center of an event with Isabella Traglio, Executive Board Member and Head of R&D Vhernier, Claudia D’Arpizio, Bain & Co., Stellene Volandes, Editor in Chief Town & Country, Randi Udell, London Jewelers, Corinne Dauger , consultant and academic. Milanese goldsmith art is the focus of the Gem Talks organized in collaboration with IGI, the Italian Gemological Institute. Also in the field are narrative skills to be used in the jewelery sector with the Retail Talks of Federpreziosi Confcommercio, in particular in the sale of diamonds.
Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 years logo

The Goldsmiths’ Club and Intesa Sanpaolo’s Studies and Research Department will also present for this edition a photograph of the Italian goldsmith sector, with numbers and analyses. What is now inevitable in any event is not missing: a reflection on the sustainability of the sector. Responsible practices are at the center of the seminars organized by Cibjo, the International Jewelery Confederation, in collaboration with entities such as the Watch & Jewelery Initiative 2030, World Gold Council and Platinum Guild International, with the participation of luxury experts such as Kering and Cartier. Sharing of good practices and partnerships in the name of traceability in the foreground with the multinational group Fine Euro BV and the technology company Everledger.
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also scheduled in Vicenzaoro is the Jewelry Technology Forum, in collaboration with Legor Group (21 January) with the participation of teachers, researchers and international experts in the fields of metallurgy, gems, new jewelery technologies and certifications. Blockchain as a weapon against counterfeiting will instead be the theme of the event in collaboration with the digital agency Art&sofT.

yoko london vicenzaoro copyright gioiellis
Vicenzaoro, Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The date of the Milan Jewelry Week has been set

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Babs Art Gallery Milano, Jewelry Week 2019

In 2024 the Milan Jewelry Week will return from 15 to 20 October. The event, sponsored by the Municipality of Milan and Cna Federmoda, collaborated in 2023 with partners such as Aol (Lombardy Goldsmith Association), Acj (Association for Contemporary Jewellery), HRd Antwerp and Antico (National Association for the Protection of the Gold Sector). The event organized by Prodes aims to enhance the different facets of the jewelery sector. As always, buyers, designers, gallery owners, enthusiasts and national and international media are invited.

Galleria Irene Belfi © Giorgia Ionita
Galleria Irene Belfi © Giorgia Ionita

The program includes numerous events spread across different locations, including themed exhibitions, presentations of preview collections, performances, meetings with the press, cocktail parties and workshops. The Galdus School will still be the exhibition venue of the Talent Show, organized in collaboration with Rossana Ricolfi, Coordinator, Contact and Technical Teacher of the Galdus Goldsmith School, and Andreia Gabriela Popescu, Senior Lecturer at Assamblage School and contemporary jewelery artist. In this context, international schools and academies have the opportunity to present the creations of their young talents. A jury will evaluate the works, rewarding the most deserving students: they will be able to win free access to advanced training courses offered by international jewelery schools.
Orecchino indossato di Ying Chen Chen, uno dei designer presenti alla MIlano Jewelry Week
Earring worn by Ying Chen Chen, one of the designers present at Milan Jewelry Week 2023

The Jewelry Hub will take place inside the former Pelota and is the event dedicated to around a hundred international brands, to present and sell new creations, collections or unique pieces. Each author has the opportunity to communicate his uniqueness and identity to visitors.
Mostra Artistar Jewels 2019
Artistar Jewels 2019

Artistar Jewels has reached its tenth edition, and is one of the main events of Milan Jewelry Week 2024. Organized in the prestigious location of Palazzo Bovara, the exhibition selects over 200 artists and designers whose works are published on the online sales channel overjewels.com and included in the Artistar Jewels volume, presented during the Milan Jewelry Week and distributed in the main Italian and European bookstores. Furthermore, it is sent to 5 thousand important contacts in the sector all over the world: buyers, gallery owners, luxury boutiques, fashion stylists. The aim of the project is to highlight the talent and creativity of the artists.
Palazzo Bovara, Artistar Jewels 2022
Palazzo Bovara, Artistar Jewels 2022

On October 16, 2024, the MJW Awarding Night takes place, an awards ceremony where over 30 awards are given to artists and brands who have stood out for their originality, technique and design. Furthermore, as regards the Artistar Jewels project, the three winning artists have been announced, selected by a jury of experts.
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President wanted for the RJC

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Lavorazione dell'orologio-bracciale Threads

Looking for president to deal with sustainability in the jewelery industry. If you are interested, you can contact the Responsible Jewelery Council, the world’s leading organization in defining sustainability standards for the sector. The new president will have to replace David Bouffard, who will leave on 30 April 2024 after six years. The identikit of the new president, capable of leading the team and board members into the future, includes a clear vision of the evolving landscape of the entire supply chain, from mining to retail, fine jewelery and watchmaking.

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Roberto Coin
Jewelery manufacturing in the Roberto Coin atelier

The appointment of the new RJC president is held as a special election and separately from the organisation’s main board elections. The search will conclude on Saturday 27 January, while the vote will take place in February 2024 and the new RJC president will be elected in March, when the handover with Bouffard will begin.

It has been an honor to serve as Chair of the RJC for almost six years – a truly rewarding experience given that I have been involved in the RJC from the beginning, with Signet as a founding member. The entire team and board of directors have transformed RJC from an organization consisting of 14 founding members when it launched in 2005, to an organization that is growing strong with over 1,700 members to date. As we search for a new President, I am confident that RJC has the best leadership for this new era in Executive Director Melanie Grant, who has over 20 years of experience and is internationally regarded as a leading authority on jewellery.
David Bouffard

David-Bouffard
David-Bouffard

RJC was formed in 2005 by 14 top brands and financial institutions with the goal of transforming sustainability from a sideshow to a major driver of change. Today we have over 1,700 member companies in 71 countries.
Melanie Grant
Melanie Grant, executive director RJC

The jewelery industry in T.Gold

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Visitatori a T.Gold

Countdown to Vicenzaoro January. And also for T.Gold, dedicated to technology for the goldsmith supply chain. Machinery and solutions for gold and jewelery are at the center of the event, which hosts over 170 exhibitors from 18 countries, with Germany, Turkey, Switzerland, the United States and the United Kingdom in the first places after Italy . 60% of the exhibitors are Italian and 40% foreign. TGold, like Vicenzaoro, is organized by the Italian Exhibition Group, and is held from 19 to 23 January. The fair is a showcase that aims to respond to the evolution of the supply chain. The January edition presents the selection of the top players in the manufacturing of precious stones and an expanded range of technologies. The exhibitors are gathered in Hall 9, divided into six macro-categories: alloys and galvanic treatments, prototyping and digital production, mechanical processing, assembly and welding, refining and recovery, finishing and tooling.

Espositori a T.Gold 2020
Exhibitors at T.Gold

Thanks to the partnership with Afemo (Association of Manufacturers and Exporters of Jewelery Machines) and the collaboration with Ice (State Agency for the promotion of exports) companies such as Elettrolaser, Fasti Industriale, GB F.lli Bertoncello, Italimpianti Orafi, Legor Group, Orotig will be present , Progold, Sisma. From abroad, Heimerle+Meule, Niqua and Schultheiss from Germany, as well as Starrag Vuadens from Switzerland and Goodwin Refractory Services from the United Kingdom.

One of the themes at the center of the event will be the growing weight played by sustainability, a particularly sensitive topic for the new generations. According to the report Sustainability in the gold sector, published by Cibjo in 2023, the sustainable jewelery market is expanding and will reach 20 billion dollars by 2027. Furthermore, one of the main drivers of this growth is precisely the availability of new technologies and materials for jewelry making.
A trend that pushes companies to modify infrastructures to comply with sustainability standards and tools to track procurement and manufacturing processes: from international ESG (Environmental, Social, Governance) certifications and WEEE registrations.

Lavorazione dimostrativa a T.Gold
Demonstrative processing at T.Gold

In this scenario, according to Ieg’s analysis, maximizing the performance of machinery is also an aspect of crucial importance, because it allows a rationalization of resources, both from the point of view of materials and from an energy point of view. Continuing on the line inaugurated during 2023, the technologies that large brands such as Chiron Italia and Crevoisier bring to T.Gold are characterized by a high level of integration, which allows the management of multiple production processes, increasing performance control and use of precious materials. In parallel with automation, some companies present machinery for custom or niche production, capable of enhancing manual skill and craftsmanship, the essence of Made in Italy. Even the progressive convergence of the fashion industry with that of jewellery, a phenomenon already in existence and on the rise, is among the drivers that determine the evolution of the technological offer of machinery for processing precious stones, and in fact the number of tools for working bronze and brass.

Buyer a T.Gold
Buyers at T.Gold

T.Gold 2024 is also a time for training and discussion. As with the Jewelery Technology Forum, organized in collaboration with Legor Group to explore issues related to the innovation of jewelery industry technologies. Ten thematic sessions scheduled for Sunday 21 January at the Educational Hub set up inside hall 8.0, with the participation of stakeholders, research institutes and protagonists of the goldsmith supply chain from all over the world. Intesa Sanpaolo, the Polytechnic of Milan and the Italian Gemological Foundation are the national voices, the Research Institute for Precious Metals and Metal Chemistry and COReGOLD Technology Consultancy are the international contributions. There is also room for successful company case histories with Legor Group, Progold, Fairever and Hoover and Strong.
The topics addressed will range from new challenges linked to macroeconomic scenarios, to strategies for the development of new alloys; from the most current metalworking technologies to design in the digital age. Up to the importance of Fairtrade and Fairmind sustainability certifications and the implications linked to the ever-increasing diffusion of lab-grown gems.

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Macchina per la lavorazione dell'oro
Gold processing machine

Expensive ring, more probable divorce

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Kim Kardashian con l'anello di fidanzamento

Have you received an engagement ring? Do you also know the price? We hope it is not too high, because … ♦

A diamond is forever, but divorce can also be long. There are many causes, but it seems that the more expensive the engagement ring, the greater the probability of separation of the spouses. But, be careful: it is not a rule. This is demonstrated by the couple Amal Alamuddin, and George Clooney, who after almost ten years together, seems one of the most stable couples in Hollywood. Yet the engagement ring cost the actor 550 thousand euros. In many other cases, however, it seems that the ring purchased with a high price was not a guarantee of happiness.

Amal Alamuddin e George Clooney
Amal Alamuddin e George Clooney

As in the case of Angelina Jolie, who married Brad Pitt after receiving a 200 thousand euro ring: a failed marriage. Even the separation years ago between Lady Gaga and Taylor Kinney (ring with heart-shaped diamond of 55 thousand euros) could prove it. Beyoncé is at risk (even if she’s holding on for now), given that the ring that gave her to Jay-Z cost 5 million. Not to mention Kim Kardashian’s ring, with a 15-carat diamond worth over 7 million euros.

Lady Gaga e Taylor Kinney: crisi nonostante l'anello con diamante a cuore da 55 mila dollari
Lady Gaga e Taylor Kinney: crisi nonostante l’anello con diamante a cuore da 55 mila dollari

To launch the alarm, or rather, to notice a link between the price of the ring and divorces were two American researchers at Emory University in Atlanta, who long ago put more than 3 thousand married couples in the United States under the lens. Andrew Francis and Hugo Mialon have come to the conclusion that if men choose an engagement ring between 1,500 and 3,200 euros the risk of divorce is 1.3 times higher than the average. Quite low, in short. The two researchers considered as a basis a cost for the ring a price from zero to 1,500 euros. Not only that: the greatest risk of separation is reached when the engagement ring exceeds 20 thousand dollars. Women who receive such a precious ring have 3.5 times more the chance of divorcing, compared to those who have received a solitaire of between 5 thousand and 10 thousand dollars.

La coppia scoppiata: Beyoncé e Jay-Z
La coppia Beyoncé e Jay-Z

So you have to be “scottish” to save the marriage? Not at all: even couples who have spent less than € 400 on their engagement ring have high divorce rates. In short, the ring on the finger it’s ok: just do not overdo it, better stay in the middle. And if you have any doubts about choosing the ring, you can always ask our quick guide for advice.

La signora Clooney con anello
La signora Clooney con anello
Angelina Jolie con l'anello di fidanzamento
Angelina Jolie con l’anello di fidanzamento

Jewels return to Brafa

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Nardi, spilla Geisha scolpita in un turchese. Nella parte inferiore un ventaglio in oro si apre, grazie a un micro-meccanismo, per far ammirare un ramo di ciliegio in fiore

Brafa is back, the exhibition-market of ancient and modern European art organized in Brussels by the Foire des Antiquaires de Belgique Association. The fair presents paintings, furniture, sculptures, but also exceptional jewels. this year Brafa takes place from Sunday 28 January to Sunday 4 February in the spaces of the Brussels Expo, which is located in the northern area of the Belgian capital. There will be 132 international galleries coming from 14 countries from all over the world, with an important Italian presence.

Bracciale scultura di Pol Bury in oro bianco e giallo 18 carati
Sculpture bracelet by Pol Bury in 18k white and yellow gold

Barbara Bassi Gioielli participates with a bracelet-sculpture by the kinetic sculptor Pol Bury (1922-2005) in 18k white and yellow gold, characterized by internal-external mirrored moving spheres. The jewel falls into the vein of kinetic art, thanks to the movement of the spheres that move around the wrist. The sphere is in fact the protagonist element of Bury’s research, especially in his sculptural work, in dialogue with metropolitan architecture such as the famous Octagon fountain in San Francisco. 2024 will also be an opportunity for Barbara Bassi’s gallery to celebrate an important birthday: the first forty years of work.
Nardi, anello Lettere da Venezia
Nardi, Letters from Venice ring

Nardi Jewelery also returns to Brafa with three creations that reflect the tradition of the Venice Maison. The Lettere da Venezia ring is a small openwork rose gold envelope adorned with 150 small diamonds. The upper flap opens and allows you to extract two gold sheets: the first engraved with Virgil’s phrase (Omnia vincit amor), the second customizable by the buyer. A tribute to Canaletto is instead the ring with a frame of diamonds, rubies and sapphires, in which a hand-made engraving is inspired by the work of the Venetian painter and aims to create an ideal bridge between ancient art and contemporary jewellery. . Finally, with the Geisha brooch the inspiration is Japan. The brooch can also be used as a pendant. It depicts a female face sculpted in turquoise, while in the lower part a gold fan opens, thanks to a micro-mechanism, to reveal a cherry blossom branch.
The French gallery Bernard Bouisset presents a seventies ring by Van Cleef & Arpels with two flowers made of pink coral, diamonds and gold, an early twentieth century necklace with 35 carats of old-cut diamonds, and a ring by Suzanne Belperron in platinum with a central diamond of 7.17 carats.

Anello con diamante di oltre 7 carati di Suzanne Belperron
Suzanne Belperron diamond ring weighing over 7 carats

The Collectors Gallery instead focuses on design with the Scalinata ring in 18 carat gold and diamonds made in 1983 in a limited edition and signed by designer Ettore Sottsass. Pauline’s Jewelery Box features period jewels including a late 19th century tiara with emeralds and diamonds.

Nardi, anello Omaggio a Canaletto
Nardi, Homage to Canaletto ring
Van Cleef & Arpels, anello con diamanti e corallo rosa
Van Cleef & Arpels, ring with diamonds and pink coral
Anello del designer Ettore Sottsass
Ring designed by Ettore Sottsass

The closing arrives for Gismondi-Hyperion Lab

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Il bracciale Marea, simula le onde del mare

Gismondi 1754 completes the announced acquisition of Hyperion Lab, a company specialized in the goldsmith sector that provides third-party production services. The Genoese company, which is listed on the Euronext Growth Milan stock exchange, has signed the definitive agreements for the acquisition of the entire capital by Gismondi 1754 of Hyperion Lab, an important high-end jewelery factory in Valenza, as well as having completed the closing for the acquisition of 51% of the capital. Upon completion of all phases of the acquisition, Gismondi 1754 will hold the entire share capital of Hyperion.

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The operation involves the purchase of the majority stake for approximately 1 million euros, half of which will be paid immediately and the remainder in two installments expiring in June 2024 and June 2025. The agreement also provides for a purchase option for the shareholdings held by minority partners Matteo Zamboni and Mauro Trincheri, who hold 12.7% of Hyperion’s capital. The option is counterbalanced by a put (sale option) in favor of them, under the same conditions and with the same timescales envisaged by the purchase option, to be exercised within six months of the approval of Hyperion’s financial statements as at 31 December 2025 Fabio Magrin, current CEO of the acquired company, will remain on the board of directors and will guarantee his presence in the company for five years.
Lavorazione di gioielli di Hyperion Lab
Jewelry processing by Hyperion Lab

The beautiful but strange jewels

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Borsa a forma di bottiglia di Coca Cola con 9.888 diamanti per 120 carati by Coronet

The most surprising jewels: from the diamond glove to the pavé handcuffs ♦

Strange jewels. There are not only the classic pearl necklaces, or the solitaire ring: designers and jewelers occasionally indulge in incredible fantasies. For example, what would you say about a diamond-encrusted glove? There is, and it was designed by Jacob & co. Or you might like some pink earphones with Swarovski crystals. In this case, an Indian brand called iWave took care of it. Or, again, the thong sandals with crystal gem proposed a few years ago by Tamara Comolli.

Flip flop con gemma intagliata, by Tamara Comolli
Flip-flop sandals with crystal gem by Tamara Comolli

Then there is the shoe chapter: stylists have indulged in creating shoes that look like jewels or jewels that look like shoes, you name it. An example: Casadei designer shoes, with Swarovski crystals. Or those by Ruthie Davis that were liked, they say, by Beyoncé, Penelope Cruz, Jennifer Lopez, and Lady Gaga. Perhaps the most surprising jewel, however, is represented by the pair of diamond-studded handcuffs signed a few years ago by the Swiss jeweler de Grisogono, which however no longer exists.
Bulgari, collier ispirato alla marijuana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi
Bulgari, marijuana-inspired necklace in white gold, diamonds, emeralds

If we exclude that they are used by policemen with a mania for luxury, the suspicion arises that they are intended for fans of 50 Shades of Grey. Less unusual as an object, but equally precious is the perfume spray adorned with a gecko composed of small Colombian emeralds, which climbs on branches designed with diamonds. Some, however, will raise an eyebrow at the choker, a leather and gold dog collar style, with a bone-shaped pendant: it is designed by Chopard and is intended for high-class pets.
Chopard, collare per cani in oro e cuoio
Chopard, gold and leather dog collar

A little out of the ordinary, it must be admitted, was also the Grace Kelly pen by Montblanc, studded with diamonds and pink sapphires: who knows what you can write with such an object. The skirt by Titan Industries seems more traditional, but it isn’t, with designs made of cubic zirconia and Swarovski crystals: be careful when sitting down, though. Technology couldn’t be missing: an iPad cover colored with crystals to feel in step with technology.

Anello hamburger in oro rosa, diamanti champagne, zaffiri, tsavorite, rubini
Hamburger ring in rose gold, champagne diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, rubies by Nadine Ghosn
Guanto con 17 carati di diamanti by Jacob & co
Glove with 17 carats of diamonds by Jacob & co
Auricolari con cristalli di Swarovski
Earphones with Swarovski crystals
Manette con diamanti bianchi e neri proposta dalla maison di Ginevra De Grisogono (che ora non c'è più)
Handcuffs with black and white diamonds proposed by the Ginevra maison De Grisogono (which now no longer exists)
La penna Montblanc Grace Kelly con gemma
The Montblanc Grace Kelly pen with gem

What to give to a woman? A survey reveals it

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42 % der Frauen mögen eine Halskette als Geschenk

What’s the ideal gift for a woman? A global survey reveals that women’s favorite gift is…♦︎

What gift do women appreciate most? Since you are reading a gioiellis.com page you have already guessed the answer. But someone might have had some doubts about it. A survey conducted some time ago on a global scale by JewelStreet, a community of independent designers, cleared up any possible questions. Ok, the source is interested in what the results of the survey were, but the numbers seem clear. And, among other things, the survey did not limit itself to indicating generically what women’s favorite gift is, but also went as far as specifying the type.

Gli orecchini sono il regalo più apprezzato
Earrings are the most appreciated gift

The platform, therefore, promoted a survey to find out which gifts are most appreciated by the female public. Result: the study revealed that a piece of jewelery is the most appreciated gift by 58% of women. Next in the ranking are tickets for a show (30%), perfume (23%) and a dinner at a restaurant (15%).

The survey also focused on which type of jewelery is most appreciated: 57% of those interviewed hope to receive earrings as a gift. Ear jewelry, therefore, is the most popular type. Followed by necklaces (42%), bracelets (30%) and rings (26%).

Una collana in regalo piace al 42% delle donne
42% of women like a necklace as a gift

By the way, the survey also identified what women, at least those interviewed, do not want to receive. In first place is (surprise) chocolate (31% of women do not appreciate a gift of this type). Even flowers are not so popular (17% of women don’t want them), as are underwear (17%). Not to mention household appliances or tools such as vacuum cleaners and kitchen accessories. So, if you have doubts about what to give a woman, now you have the answer.

Bracciali, orecchino in oro e anello con acquamarina indossati
Bracelets, gold earring and ring with aquamarine by Marco Bicego

Vhernier also at Vicenzaoro January

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Bracciale in titanio nero e diamanti

The Italian Vhernier and the Catalan Facet: these are two of the novelties of the next edition of Vicenzaoro January (19 to 23 January 2024), which will celebrate its 70th birthday. An event which, alongside the celebrations (with an exhibition) of the largest European fair dedicated to jewellery, presents itself to buyers with over 1300 exhibitors, with 40% coming from 37 different countries, while buyers from over 130 countries are expected. Together with Vicenzaoro, as usual, there will be T.Gold, an event dedicated to machinery and technologies for gold and jewellery, as well as VO Vintage (19-22), an event open to the public dedicated to vintage watches and jewelery .

Anello di Facet indossato
Facet Ring

As usual, the strongest brands are found in the Icon area. With the reconfirmations of brands such as Damiani, Roberto Coin, Crivelli, Fope, while Vhernier’s designer jewels will be stationed in the showroom on the first floor. Among the top brands there is no shortage of Annamaria Cammilli, Roberto De Meglio, Palmiero, Chantecler and Gismondi 1754 together with Vendorafa. Again: Leo Pizzo, Mirco Visconti, Davite & Delucchi, Giorgio Visconti, World Diamond Group, as well as the boutique brands of Peruffo Jewellery, Marco Dal Maso, Adolfo Courier, Serafino Consoli, Nanis, Verdi, Giovanni Ferraris, Butani, Staurino Fratelli, Baraka.
Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Among the foreign brands, Schreiner, Hans Krieger, Giloy, Breuning, Niessing, Jörg Heinz and Heinz Mayer, Dámaso Martinez, Carrera y Carrera and the aforementioned Facet are confirmed, as well as Akillis, Djula, Autore and Fabergé. The Design Room area will not be missing either, with the debut of the French architect Michel Tortel with the Qitteri Paris brand and the proven participation of Vicky Shawe, Karen Suen, Alessio Boschi, Marina B, JMG Designer, Busatti Milano, Miseno Jewelry, Netali Nissim, Cedille Paris, Antonini Milano, Mousson Atelier, Osi Vitoria Jewelry and Misani.
Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 logo

Jewelry in Paris with Christie’s

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Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels con smeraldi e diamanti

In the first half of December, in Paris, Christie’s presented the sales of Joaillerie Paris, with almost 250 lots. The auction was successful: against an overall estimate of 5.2 million euros, jewels worth almost 8.2 million were sold. There were three key themes of the jewels on sale, which included the major brands of the Place Vendôme Maisons: bestiary and totem animals, flowers as an inexhaustible source of inspiration and precious pearls as an invitation to travel. The piece that achieved the highest price was a 6.57 carat round brilliant diamond ring, D color, IF clarity in 18k white gold. It was sold for 352,800 euros.

Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels con smeraldi e diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels brooch with emeralds and diamonds

A pair of earrings by Vam Cleef &n Arpels with cushion and oval antique-cut rubies, round, pear-shaped and marquise-cut diamonds, platinum and 18-carat white gold was sold for 100,800 euros. Suzanne Belperron signed broche with pear-cut sapphires, old-cut diamonds, 18k yellow gold, circa 1955-1970, found a buyer for 22,680 euros. A Van Cleef & Arpels brooch with round and pear-shaped, pear-shaped, marquise, round emeralds and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18-karat white gold sold for 151,200 euros.

Orecchini con rubini e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Earrings with rubies and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels
Orecchini con zaffiri ottagonali taglio cuscino e diamanti
Earrings with octagonal cushion-cut sapphires and diamonds
Collana con perle venduta per 277.000 euro
Pearl necklace sold for 277,000 euros

51% of women buy jewelry for herself

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Davanti a uno store Tiffany

Over half of the women buy the jewels for herself. And loves white metal ♦ ︎

Are women in New York different from those in Boston, London, Paris or Milan? Probably not. The survey conducted time ago by MVI Marketing on the purchasing habits of young and very young american women, including the so-called Millennials, should be read carefully. According to the survey, girls born at the turn of the year 2000, also called Generation Y, often buy jewelry for themselves.

Shopping da Tiffany
Shopping at Tiffany’s

The market analysis company questioned 1,001 women aged 25 to 40 in the United States and with a family income of at least $ 75,000. Result: 51% of young women buy jewelry for themselves, as a reward for some achievement achieved or for their own pleasure. This is an interesting element for those who make jewelry: these are potential customers, in fact, for the next 30 years. And the fact of having a behavior so independent of the jewelry also means, probably, a different orientation than the classic jewelry, intended for ceremonies or anniversaries. 14% of the women interviewed, on the other hand, said they were buying a jewel as a gift for their husband or partner, while 17% bought jewelry as a couple, probably for special occasions. The preference for metal is also interesting: 35% indicated white gold, 17% silver and 15% platinum. In other words, white is fashionable: only 13% indicated pink gold and 11% yellow.

L'interno della boutique di Roma di Van Cleef & Arpels
The interior of the Van Cleef & boutique in Rome Arpels

The survey also asked what were the preferred brands and, in this case, we must remember that the survey was conducted in the USA. In any case, Tiffany, Pandora and Swarovski ranked first, in a list that also included Alex and Ani, Gucci, Cartier and Tory Burch. But, in fact, this is a result that applies to the United States.
Finally, another interesting fact: MVI asked the interviewees if they will would bought a synthetic diamond, produced in the laboratory. 43% said it was possible, but uncertain, 21% did not rule it out, but asked for more information, while 13% said yes, they would buy a synthetic diamond.

Sogni in Place Vendôme, Parigi
Dreams in Place Vendôme, Paris
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Parigi
Shopping in Place Vendôme, Paris
Vetrina di uno store Pandora, in California
Window of a Pandora store, in California

The Cristina Sabatini’s formula

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Orecchini Serpente in bronzo placcato oro, cubic zirconia

Cristina Sabatini, fashion jewelry and bright colors made in New York. Here are the latest news from the brand ♦ ︎

Italian of origin, born Brazilian, US Citizenship. Cristina Sabatini in New York founded, in 2012, a small empire of accessories, including vibrant jewelry, at affordable prices, and with access to the stars as Lady Gaga, who adopted them. And you understand why: Cristina Sabatini’s jewels are eclectic, unorthodox, they are noteworthy. The designer has a very elaborate concept of her creations: swinging colors, exotic skins, resin, sterling silver, 18k gold, precious and semiprecious stones. An original mix that can astonish you. As in the case of her “gladiator” bracelets, available in ten different colors and combinations.

Anello Serpente in bronzo placcato oro
Serpente ring in gold-plated bronze

The formula was successful and Cristina Sabatini, as well as convincing stars like Lady Gaga, Carrie Underwood, Rhonda Rousey, Teyonah Parris and Danielle Panabaker, opened five luxury boutiques around the world. Her fashion jewelry is also the result of a mix of experiences, styles and emotions she has gathered in her travels. But not only. If you are curious, know that when she does not plan, Cristina spends time with her husband, two children and a beloved bulldog, Louis.

Orecchini Rosalie, bronzo placcato oro, madreperla
Rosalie earrings, gold-plated bronze, mother-of-pearl
Anello Porto Cervo in ottone placcato oro, madreperla, rodio
Porto Cervo ring in gold-plated brass, mother-of-pearl and rhodium
Orecchini Porto Cervo, ottone placcato oro, madreperla, abalone
Porto Cervo earrings, gold plated brass, mother of pearl, abalone
Collana Penelope in ottone placcato oro, madreperla
Penelope necklace in gold plated brass, mother of pearl
Anello Maldive in bronzo placcato oro, madreperla, rodio
Maldive ring in gold plated bronze, mother of pearl, rhodium
Anello Cambodia in bronzo placcato oro
Cambodia ring in gold-plated bronze

The Amabile Jewels Puzzle

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Orecchino Puzzle in argento placcato oro di Amabile Jewels

Giving a puzzle as a gift can be fun for those who love the genre. But the gift is probably more appreciated than the puzzle is also a jewel. Like those presented by Amabile Jewels with its Puzzle line. The bijoux have a shape inspired by the tiles that make up the classic pastime and, at the same time, retain a symbolic function: two different elements that come together immediately bring to mind the relationship of a couple or friendship.
Necklace or bracelet are made with a mother-of-pearl enamel detail, on silver or gold-plated silver. The Lovli  earring with chain allows you to create different looks: you can wear it in a single hole keeping the bow on the lobe and the long chain, or pass it through several holes to create a spiral on the ear.

Bracciale Puzzle di Amabile Jewels
Puzzle Bracelet by Amabile Jewels

The Amabile brand was founded in 2020 by Martina Strazzer, just twenty years old. The jewels are made of 925 silver and gold plated. To make himself known he uses social media such as TikTok, where he has 1.5 million followers, with entertaining content using the emotional marketing strategy, with the aim of involving customers in a story. In 2022 Amabile had a turnover of 4 million euros with a forecast of 10 million for 2023.

Collana Puzzle in argento placcato oro
Puzzle necklace in gold-plated silver

Anello Puzzle in argento placcato oro e in solo argento
Puzzle ring in gold-plated silver and in silver only

Orecchini della linea Lovli
Earrings from the Lovli line
Martina Strazzer
Martina Strazzer

A ruby shines with Pandolfini

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Anello a fascia traforata in oro giallo e diamanti, con rubino birmano taglio ovale

The late autumn auctions of Pandolfini jewels and watches in Florence, held in the historic Palazzo Ramirez Montalvo, closed with a total hammer price of 3.4 million euros. There are two catalogues, with over 350 lots of jewelery and watches. During the first day, dedicated to jewels, an openwork band ring in yellow gold and diamonds with an oval-cut Burmese ruby was sold for 182,700 euros, which more than doubled its high estimate of 80,000 euros.

Anello con zaffiro birmano taglio rotondo e diamanti
Ring with round cut Burmese sapphire and diamonds

In a moment of global political uncertainty like the one we are experiencing today, luxury objects remain highly coveted, safe haven assets in which to continue investing.
Cesare Bianchi, head of the Jewelery and Watches department

Rolex Daytona 1990
Rolex Daytona 1990

Among the colored stones at auction that particularly attracted the attention of foreign collectors, a ring with a round-cut Burmese sapphire and diamonds reached 57,960 euros. And a Tulle bracelet by Buccellati in woven mesh in silver and gold found a buyer for 78,120 euros. Excellent performances also for the solitaire ring with old-cut diamond, sold for 60,480 euros, which is accompanied by the Panther-shaped bracelet from Frascarolo sold for 17,640 euros. Clocks also attracted attention on November 30th. It was the sporty and steel models that attracted the most interest, with particular reference to the most recent Rolex models. A steel and gold Rolex Daytona from 1990 sold for 30,240 euros. While a Patek Philippe Nautilus with a monobloc steel case exceeded expectations, reaching 88,200 euros. The Cartier Tank Cintree from the 1920s with a rectangular case reached 40,320 euros.

Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus

Vicenzaoro with an exhibition on its 70th anniversary

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Visitatori a Vicenzaoro

Vicenzaoro is preparing to celebrate its first 70 years. The event organized by Italian Exhibition Group in January 2024 (from 19th to 23rd at the fair in Vicenza), will be marked by this anniversary. Immediately afterwards, in February Ieg will begin extensive renovation work on the Vicenza exhibition center with the demolition of the old “snail” (pavilion 2) and pavilion 5 for the construction of a new, more functional environment, which will redesign and expand the exhibition capacity of the neighborhood.

Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 logo

The 70 years of Vicenzaoro, however, are summarized in the claim The Heritage for Tomorrow. In 70 years, Vicenzaoro has grown and transformed into one of the three most important B2B jewelry fairs in the world. A success possible thanks to companies, customers, buyers, institutions, associations, media. And, in recent years, thanks to the commitment of Ieg. Born in 1954 from the trade fair of local excellence, the Vicenza goldsmith exhibition, named Vicenzaoro in the 1980s, has built over the decades a heritage of relationships, skills and values that have made it the reference platform for the global industry . The anniversary represents a salient stage for the Vicenza show and its community: it will reaffirm the development and consolidation of its strategic market leadership and will enhance its international reach.
Vicenzaoro September 2023
Vicenzaoro September 2023

The exhibition
An exhibition set up in the pavilions during the January edition will retrace the 70 years of the fair. It will be in seven stages, one for each decade, with the themes, places, treasures, characters and numbers that have contributed to substantiating its iconic allure over the years. Including visits from Diego Armando Maradona, and the former President of the Republic Francesco Cossiga. A celebratory logo characterizes all communication, together with online content accessible to the entire community.
At the centre, however, there is the link between the fair and jewellery, one of the most important manufacturing sectors for the Veneto region. For this reason, in the heart of the city there are numerous historic goldsmith shops, the Jewelery Museum and a gold route that runs through the centre. And Vicenza will be the protagonist and voice of this seventieth anniversary: during the days of the fair some shop windows in the center will tell the story of VO70 and goldsmithing, also linking online to dedicated content.

Collana di Vittorio Fiorentino con corallo e diamanti indossata a Vicenzaoro
Collana di Vittorio Fiorentino with coral and diamonds indossata in Vicenzaoro

yoko london vicenzaoro copyright gioiellis
Vicenzaoro, Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Giselle Effting. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Giselle Effting, Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

L’oro è meglio se equo e solidale

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Mariah Carey per Chopard, uno dei grandi brand della gioielleria a utilizzare oro fairtrade

Buying and selling gold jewelery extracted in mines that respect workers’ rights and reduce dangers, in addition to being an ethically right action, can become an advantage for marketing. Think about it: would you rather buy a jewel that cost the life of some underpaid miner or, with a minimal difference in price, gold that respected all civil rights? Fairtrade gold is the equivalent of fair trade for food. This reasoning is pushing numerous jewelry brands to specify the ethical origin of the material used and, in particular, of the gold. And ethical provenance, in addition to being laudable, also proves to be a powerful marketing tool.

Pepite d'oro
Gold nuggets

Fairtrade, says the presentation text, «offers a lifeline for artisanal and small-scale miners and their communities. Our passion is to see transparency, traceability, truth and justice in the living conditions of millions of artisans and small-scale miners around the world. Small-scale miners work in remote, marginalized and harsh conditions, doing life-threatening work. They are constantly exploited by brokers and their access to markets is limited and they rarely receive a fair price for their gold.” In short, the association tries to bring some balance to a world dominated by large mining multinationals.

Anello Eternity in oro Fairtrade
Eternity ring in Fairtrade gold by Mad

In recent years, the membership of around a hundred jewelers and gold artisans in Great Britain, for example, has brought the miners 100 thousand dollars in the form of bonuses. Those who join Fairtrade can purchase gold and silver ethically certified by five master licensees. Gold is semi-processed into sheets, wire, tube or grains. The annual consumption limit is 500 grams of gold or platinum, or 2 kilograms of silver. According to Reena Agarwal, coordinator of the association, «it is a great moment for small jewelers. The ethical jewelery market is growing rapidly and the Fairtrade mark is the most widely recognized certification worldwide. Fairtrade has a strong brand profile.”

Cercatore d'oro
Gold digger

In short, fair trade gold can also be an advantage in terms of sales. «Fairtrade for gold and precious metals is a very innovative initiative, offering a lifeline for poor, small-scale miners around the world. It’s the best way to communicate the benefits of responsibly sourcing metal to customers. In addition to registered jewelers, we also have 50 licensees for the purchase of large quantities of gold, who are authorized to stamp their jewellery”, adds Reena Agarwal, as reported by the Professional Jeweler website some time ago.

Anello Rose in oro 18 carati fairtrade
Rose ring in 18k fairtrade gold by Ute Decker
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