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The mysteries of opal in GemGèneve

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The mysteries, charm and ambiguity of a gem that differs completely from the others: the opal. The eighth edition of GemGèneve (9-12 May 2024, pavilion 1 of Palexpo, Geneva) will also offer an exhibition dedicated to the most enigmatic stone. The iridescence of opal is one of the most suggestive aspects. She was nicknamed Queen of Gemstones by William Shakespeare, and she won the favor of Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.

Series Lollipop Opal Brooch, with diamonds, tanzanites, tsavorites, enamel and aluminium
A.Win Siu, Lollipop brooch with opal, diamonds, tanzanite, tsavorite, enamel, aluminum

The exhibition, Flames of Opal Essence, is divided into a selection of around 50 jewels and works of art with a journey through the mysteries of iridescence. The scenography designed by the Autre Idée agency highlights all the properties of this stone. The exhibition is curated by the director of GemGenève, Mathieu Dekeukelaire, with the support of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire of Geneva, Piaget, Imagem and Boris Chauviré, doctor of mineralogy at GeoGems, as scientific collaborator.

Thanks to the dialogue between jewels and contemporary art, Flames of Opal Essence traces a sensorial, graphic and initiatory journey to reveal all the mysteries of iridescence.
Nadège Totah, member of the Board of Directors

Nadège Totah. Photo David Fraga
Nadège Totah. Photo: David Fraga

In its collections, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Geneva (MAH) has numerous antique pieces set with opals. Some will be on display in the exhibition, such as a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, with an opal set, which hides a tiny secret compartment in which a child’s thin lock of hair is kept.

Vhernier, spille con opale, cristallo di rocca e diamanti. Faerber Collection
Vhernier, brooches with opal, rock crystal and diamonds. Faerber Collection

Due to its characteristics, opal was long considered a cursed and unloved stone in ancient times. For this reason it was rarely used in jewelry before the 19th century.
Thomas Faerber, co-founder of GemGenève

Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thomas Faerber. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Imagem, dettaglio di opale
Imagem, detail of opal
Kreis Jewellery, anello con opale nero australiano di 8,80 carati
Kreis Jewellery, 8.80 carat Australian black opal ring
piaget White gold. Opal dial. 44 marquise cut diamonds
Piaget, watch with opal and marquise-cut diamonds
Boris Chauviré
Boris Chauviré

Brosway opens in Genoa in make-up style

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Brosway Genova

Brosway opens a new flagship store in the heart of Genoa. The store also presents a new format, with furnishings and display solutions that recall make-up shops, with direct contact between jewelery and customer. The idea is to offer the customer to completely immerse themselves in the Brosway world, with a sensorial journey through colors and design. The boutique, explains Bros Manifatture, the company that owns the brand, represents a large showcase at an international level and an important step forward in the brand’s growth strategy with the aim of offering customers a creative shopping experience Made in Italy.

Anello Fancy in argento con cubic zirconia
Fancy ring in silver with cubic zirconia

The furnishings and display solutions of the flagship store, characterized by essential lines and warm shades ranging from white to beige with natural wood accents, create the ideal environment to enhance the women’s and men’s collections and the best-selling Fancy line, in silver and zircons, inspired by the colors of emotions which, first, introduced the concept of make-up jewelry. With a focus on color harmony, the Fancy collection offers versatile and customizable jewels «which allow the wearer to express their mood and find a personal balance, enhancing the harmony of colors on every occasion».
Orecchini Fancy in argento e cubic zirconia
Fancy earrings in silver with cubic zirconia

Gismondi 1754 aims to consolidate the business

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Gismondi 1754, bracciale con tanzanite di 39,54 carati, diamanti di 16,18 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com

More investments and a little less profits for Gismondi 1754, which has announced its 2023 budget results. The Genoese company, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan of the Italian Stock Exchange, last year purchased Vendorafa and Hyperion Lab, as well as having a five-year franchising agreement was signed (with the option of renewal between the parties upon expiry) with the Al Mana family (Qatar) for the distribution of the Italian brand’s jewels in the Gulf area: operations which are reflected in the economic result. In addition to having approved the financial statements, the board of directors decided to propose to the shareholders’ meeting changes to the regulation of the Gismondi 1754 Warrants, scheduled to expire in 2024 and extended to 2026, with a new price and the objective of allowing «holders of the Warrants a longer time for exercise”. The effect is also to extend the subscription deadline for the necessary capital increase, with clear financial benefit for the company.

Bracciale in oro rosa e zaffiri rosa di Gismondi 1754
Bracelet in pink gold and pink sapphires by Gismondi 1754

Despite the continuation of the state of socioeconomic uncertainty – determined by the wars and the Chinese crisis and despite the end of the revenge shopping effect which positively influenced the 2021/2022 turnover – I am very satisfied with the results achieved, as the company has demonstrated readiness and flexibility in facing the negative scenario that has affected the entire luxury segment. Even with the right prudence, I am confident in the future because the actions taken for total control of the supply chain, thanks to the acquisition of Hyperionlab, will allow us to expand our business with greater profits.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

In summary, Gismondi 1754 shows a production value of 14.5 million for 2023, a decrease of 4%. Consolidated Ebitda (gross profit) decreased from 20% in 2022 (3 million) to 7% in 2023 (970,493). As a result, net profit also decreased to 35,335 compared to 1.6 million in 2022. For 2024 the company expects the development of the high range and strengthening of the new Vendorafa collections, together with rationalization and cost optimization of the network of directly managed stores and a boost from the opening of the first franchise store in Doha.
Collana Foglie in oro e diamanti arrivata seconda al Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Foglie necklace by Vendorafa, in gold and diamonds, came second at the Design Coutre Awards. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gold at record, will it continue to rise?

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Gold bar

Gold has reached an all-time high: will it continue to rise? Or was it just a blaze destined to go out? The answer interests both the world of jewelry and those who invest in the yellow metal. Everyone knows that the future is unpredictable even for the most experienced analysts. However, it is possible to draw a picture that can offer some indications.
oro 1 anno

At the beginning of March, gold prices in New York exceeded 2,140 dollars an ounce, with a peak of 2,145.40 dollars. Yet the previous record had been reached only three months earlier: on 4 December the value of gold had risen to 2,135 dollars, but then fell. The fundamental point, however, according to experts, is the exceeding of the 2,000 dollar mark in mid-February: a psychological threshold, which opens up to any scenario, so much so that in a week the yellow metal has increased by around 100 dollars.

Polsini in oro giallo a forma di vite e bullone. Prezzo: 4200 euro
Villa Gioielleria. Yellow gold screw and bolt shaped cufflinks

Why has the value of gold risen so much? There are two main factors: the geopolitical tensions that push towards safe haven assets and the maneuvers of large investment funds. The first factor is simple to understand: war in the Middle East, war in Ukraine, American elections which can be a factor of further uncertainty. Reasons that push many investors to bet part of their money on the solidity of gold. This factor conditions some investment funds which, also due to the algorithms that determine portfolio choices, join the trend. In this way they further fuel the rise in prices.
Bracciale in oro con la forma di teschio di ariete
Gold bracelet in the shape of a ram skull by Vicky Shawe. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Warning: it is not an automatic mechanism, destined to repeat itself forever. Another aspect that affects the price of gold is, for example, the trend in interest rates. Investors expect the Federal Reserve, the American central bank, to reduce rates as inflation appears to be under control. This expectation affects the yield of American government bonds and the price of the Treasury Bond has already partly reflected these expectations. If the value of bonds falls, many investors think, an alternative is to buy gold. Of course, if the Fed were to not lower rates and the wars around the world were to end or, at least, find a truce, gold would probably lose part of its appeal, with a reduction in prices.
Piccoli lingotti d'oro
Small gold ingots

White trend for Rue Des Mille

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Collezione Whiteside

Whiteside, spring tending towards white for Rue Des Mille, an Italian bijoux brand that chooses pearl-style elements for its collection which includes bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings. The bijoux of the Whiteside line are made of 925 silver with 18k gold plating. The jewels also use shell pearls, small spheres also called shell pearls or fantasy pearls. They are similar to pearls produced and processed using a combination of shell powder and resin.

Orecchini in argento con galvanica oro e perle di conchiglia
Silver earrings with gold plating and shell pearls

The ring with six shell pearls is adjustable, to be worn on any finger. It is made of 925 silver, 18k gold plating and costs 75 euros. The bracelet with scooby-doo weave and central shell pearl also in 925 silver with gold plating costs 38 euros and the pair of earrings with graduated round shell pearls and cubic zirconia light point, made of 925 silver and gold plating , is offered at 95 euros.
Bracciale con perla di conchiglia
Bracelet with shell pearl

Anelli e collane della collezione Whiteside
Rings and necklaces from the Whiteside collection
Orecchini e collana della collezione Whiteside
Earrings and necklace from the Whiteside collection
Collezione Whiteside di Rue des Mille
Whiteside Collection of Rue des Mille

A sapphire drags Bolaffi’s auction

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Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir di 4,61 carati

Spring marked by blue for Aste Bolaffi in Turin. The auction sale organized by the company for the end of March culminated in the awarding of a ring with a prestigious 4.61-carat Kashmir blue sapphire, sold for 370,000 euros after a telephone and in-room duel between numerous international collectors. The jewel was purchased by an important New York buyer. The stone, free of signs of heating and inclusions, is characterized by a uniform velvety blue color, the most sought after and appreciated. The jewel comes from the heirs of an important Milanese family together with other precious items. The sale for the Turin maison ended with over 2.4 million euros, a record for the jewelery department.

Orecchini in zaffiri blu e diamanti
Blue sapphire and diamond earrings

The sapphire had no certification of origin, but gemological investigations by the Basel SSEF officially confirmed its provenance: the Kashmir region, north-west of the Himalayan chain, where a small mine rich in sapphires of extraordinary beauty was discovered in the 19th century, then exploited intensely, only for a few years, at the behest of the maharajah and now exhausted.

A memorable auction both in general, for the record of the jewelery department, and for this spectacular sapphire, which is proof of the added value that Aste Bolaffi can offer sellers. Specifically, I am proud to have been able to demonstrate it, thanks to the competence and stubbornness of our specialist, Maria Carla Manenti, who allowed the selling family to see a beautiful sapphire transformed into a stone of exceptional provenance. Once this discovery was ascertained, certified by the supreme authority on the subject consulted by us, the other added value was given by our international network which brought the most important buyers from all over the world to battle at the auction, thus allowing the sensational result.
Filippo Bolaffi, CEO of Aste Bolaffi

Girocollo composto da cinque fili di perle naturali di acqua salata
Choker composed of five strands of natural saltwater pearls

Among the other jewels that achieved the best prices were a pair of earrings in blue sapphires and diamonds, which went up to 167,000 euros, a rare necklace made up of five strands of natural saltwater pearls, purchased for 143,000 euros, more than three times the starting price, a platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond, sold for 50,000 euros, a carnelian cameo engraved by Benedetto Pistrucci, purchased for 45,000 euros (lot 203), a pair of agate and enamel bookends signed by Alfredo Ravasco, one of the leading Italian goldsmiths of the 1920s and 1930s, depicting tropical fish, sought for up to 25,000 euros.

Anello in platino con diamante taglio rettangolare a gradini di 5 carati
Platinum ring with a 5-carat rectangular stepped cut diamond

 

The dates of Milano Fashion&Jewels September

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Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The September 2024 edition of Milano Fashion&Jewels will still take place at the Rho Fair from Saturday 14th to Tuesday 17th. On Saturday, visitor entry will be by invitation only. Furthermore, the days from 15th to 17th (Sunday-Tuesday) will coincide with Micam Milano, International Footwear Exhibition, Mipel International Leather Goods and Fashion Accessories Exhibition.

Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Homi Fashion&Jewels Exhibition. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In three days, in addition to the opening on Saturday dedicated to exclusive entry with invitation from the exhibitors, it will thus be possible to better concentrate all the activities and special events of the event, offering visitors, buyers and journalists present, a very aimed at knowing and appreciating the potential of Milano Fashion&Jewels. With a view to optimizing visiting opportunities, a partial overlap is also expected in September (Tuesday 17th) with Lineapelle, the international exhibition of leather, accessories, components and fabrics, scheduled for 17th to 20th February 2024.
Esposizione di gioielli a Homi Fashion&Jewels
Homi Fashion&Jewels

The history of Tiffany & Co on window

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Campagna With Love, Since 1837

It is not true that to be liked you need to be young and, perhaps, lie about your age. Tiffany, for example, is keen to underline its date of birth: 1837. A year that also occurs in its new advertising campaign: With Love, Since 1837. In short, for almost two centuries the American brand, now French-owned , with his jewels he witnesses weddings, engagements and declarations of love. And, always sinking inspiration back to its historical roots, the images that accompany the communication allude to the creativity of Gene Moore, an American designer and window dresser who joined Tiffany in 1955 as artistic director and later became vice president. In fact, the showcase is the first business card of a jewelry store.

Bracciale Knot
Knot bracelet

The Maison’s most important jewelery collections, such as Lock, T, Knot, HardWear, Sixteen Stone and Tiffany Setting, were visualized by the photographer and director Dan Tobin Smith, who recalled in photos and videos a series of shop windows created by Gene Moore, between theatrical wings and allusions to the surrealist artistic trend. The campaign speaks to the heritage of the House, the origin of each collection and pieces such as the Lock bracelet, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Sixteen Stone ring, HardWear jewels and other creations.

Bracciale Knot
Bracelet from the Knot collection

Dan Tobin Smith worked with production designer Rachel Thomas, including miniature or large-scale models that flow together seamlessly through shifts in perspective. The campaign is a collaboration between Tiffany’s internal creative team and creative agency Tbwa\Chiat\Day LA.

T bracelet
Bracelet from the T collection
Setting ring Hero
Tiffany Setting ring

A film for Serafino Consoli

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Un frame del film The Shape of Life

The Serafino Consoli brand presents a video, The Shape of Life, which in addition to being a vehicle for communicating jewellery, aims to become a manifesto of the values and history of the brand. Set between Monte Rosa and the Circolo Filologico of Milan, the cultural center of the city, the video is performed by the German dancer and choreographer Anne Jung, with elements of dance and sport: she competed in the 1996 Atlanta Olympics.

The video is presented as testimony to the stylistic path undertaken by Serafino Consoli, a brand born in 1959 in a small jewelery shop in Northern Italy, in the province of Bergamo, which still bears the name of its founder today. The Brevetto and Serafino collections combine tradition and innovation: the technology introduced by the brand makes the jewelery extremely flexible, able to adapt to any size. In the Serafino collection, for example, the rings can be transformed into bracelets, with two ways of wearing the same jewel.

Serafino Consoli, bracciali e anelli
Serafino Consoli, bracelets and rings

With The Shape of Life we wanted to create a new and innovative communication product. For its production we identified young professionals who brought their creativity and fresh ideas to overcome the concept of the classic commercial. Together we thought of this project, then shot and edited into a real film-manifesto which, in a few minutes and without unnecessary frills, speaks, interprets and transmits the concepts of nature, human relationships, changes. Because the shape of life is changeable like our rings, which last forever, adapting to the passing of time. For us The Shape of Life is not a simple and classic marketing initiative, it is a project that aims to accompany us and represent us as a company and people, because it investigates and compares the sensitivity and beauty that is in each of us.
Ivan Consoli, CEO of Serafino Consoli

The film is produced by the independent creative&production company Jumpp, written and directed by Nicola Martini, under the executive creative direction of Giovanni Verdicchio. The photographic direction is by Luca Costantini, the music is by Daniele De Virgilio.

La locandina di The Shape of Life
The Shape of Life poster

A book and a league for Atelier VM

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Marta Caffarelli e Viola Naj-Oleari in una foto del 1998 di Nicola De Rosa. Dal libro «Due nomadi gold»

Atelier VM, a Milanese brand that has decided to celebrate the anniversary with a project and a book published by Corraini Edizioni, turns a quarter of a century. Atelier VM, founded by designers Marta Caffarilli and Viola Naj-Oleari, also organized a retrospective curated by Milovan Farronato, in Via Cesare Correnti 14 in Milan. The book is halfway between diary, album of memories and reflection: it retraces the history of VM from its beginnings, with the two very young friends, today at the helm of a predominantly female company made in Milan. The volume contains drawings, photos and a conversation with the two founders, including personal memories and anecdotes. Atelier VM underlines the ability to innovate the classic canons of jewelery by enhancing the emotional aspect linked to the object.

Uno schizzo preparatorio pubblicato nel libro Due nomadi gold
A preparatory sketch published in the book «Due nomadi gold»

The book contains texts by Domitilla Dardi, Milovan Farronato and Alessandra Pomarico, Marta Cappellolli and Viola Naj-Oleari in conversation with Alessandra Pomarico. Furthermore, ten years after launching L’Essenziale, the idea of “jewels soldered to the body”, Atelier VM is now launching the new alloy called 3Kt, composed of gold, copper and silver.
Foto: Archivio Goldschmied & Chiari
Image: Goldschmied & Chiari Archive

Bracciali Cosmo indossati
Worn Cosmo bracelets by Atelier Vm

The program of the Jewelery Museum

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Pop Beat Italia 1960-1979

The 2024 program of the Vicenza Jewelery Museum begins with the cycle of guided visits to the Pop Beat Italia 1960-1979 exhibition. The visits to the rooms of the Palladian Basilica are entitled The jewel of the sixties and seventies: free to create. At the centre, the jewelery materials in that period of great creative freedom, with the phenomenon of bijou and artistic jewellery, of which the Padua school is an example. The visits will take place on Sunday afternoons between 4.30pm and 6.00pm, on 24 March, 28 April, 26 May and 30 June (to be booked). Reduced price for all visitors who show the exhibition ticket in the Basilica and discounts for residents of Vicenza and the province. The museum is the first in Italy dedicated exclusively to goldsmith and jewelery art.

Corona della Madonna di Monte Berico
Crown of the Madonna of Monte Berico

In May the program also includes a series of visits organized with the Diocesan Museum of Vicenza to learn about the jewels of sacred art that are the city’s heritage: the crown and pectoral of the Madonna of Monte Berico, patron saint of Vicenza, two masterpieces of the goldsmith’s art Vicenza made in 1900 starting from pre-existing jewels of great value, donated as a sign of devotion by the families of the capital. The visits are scheduled for Sunday 5 and 19 May, at 10am, starting from the Diocesan Museum, where it will be possible to admire the treasures that inspired the two creations: the Reliquary of the Holy Thorn (13th-19th century), the Chalice of the church of Santa Corona (17th century), and the Processional Cross of the Cathedral (15th century) curated by the educational services of the Diocesan Museum of Vicenza. The group will then move to the nearby Jewelery Museum to admire the crown and pectoral, with expert commentary from Stefano Soprana, who oversaw its restoration, owner of the historic Soprana jewelery shop, located under the Palladian Basilica, where the master’s workshop once stood Angelo Marangoni, who originally created the two works.
Attività didattiche e laboratori per bambini
Educational activities and workshops for children

Educational activities and workshops for all ages continue in 2024, to explore the jewelery design and creation process. Three workshops are planned for families: on Saturday 30 March everyone will discover the mysteries of stones with the interactive meeting Minerals: precious materials, on Sunday 28 April it will be the turn of My precious mosaic, while on Sunday 26 May the Eco workshop will be held -jewellery, centered on the theme of recycling and reused materials.
For adults who wish to try their hand at creating jewellery, four workshops are scheduled with the goldsmith designer Barbara Uderzo, whose jewels have been exhibited in international art galleries and museums, such as La Triennale di Milano, the Museum of Decorative Arts in Berlin , the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. The meetings, all on Sunday, will be dedicated to the different expressions of jewellery: on 23 March the workshop Repeating and joining: from the module to the necklace, on 14 April Weaving and riveting: from the metal wire to the ring, on 12 May Shaping and riveting : give shape to your bracelet and on June 23rd Fold, thread, tie: make your earrings with the colors of summer. The Jewelery Museum also participates in the Night of the Museums, Saturday 18 May, with dedicated activities.
Workshop, Museo del Gioiello
Workshop, Museo del Gioiello

Work has begun on the new Vicenzaoro

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Rendering del nuovo padiglione 6

Ieg, the company that organizes Vicenzaoro, has decided to invest 60 million to expand the spaces of Fiera Vicenza in view of the next event, set for 6 to 10 September. The redevelopment works have begun, as evidenced by the images, commented by the architect Mario Vescovo, director of the Vicenza headquarters of Ieg, as well as director of operations of the same plant: “After the official handover of the construction site area last February 12th to the company winner of the tender called by Ieg for the demolition, the environmental remediation operations are nearing completion to begin the subsequent demolition of pavilion 2. However, the dismantling of pavilion 5 has already been completed in recent days.

Mario Vescovo
Mario Vescovo

The demolition of the old pavilions will be completed within the next four months, including the removal of the foundations, to prepare the land for the new construction on the same footprint as the new building of approximately 22,000 square meters, designed by Studio GMP of Hamburg. The new building will be developed on two levels and will be completed in the first half of 2026.
Lavori di demolizione a Fiera Vicenza
Demolition works at Fiera Vicenza

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro
Vicenzaoro 2024. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Sotheby’s sells a collection of 250 jewels

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René Boivin, Sapphire and emerald demi parure Algues, circa 1962

Great jewels return to Geneva with the Sotheby’s auction scheduled for May 14th. The auction includes an extraordinary jewelery collection of over 250 pieces of the highest quality, assembled by a passionate European collector over fifty years: it is one of the most important private collections of designer jewelery ever put up for auction. This is why the sale was entitled Iconic Jewels: Her Sense Of Style.

René Boivin, Sapphire and diamond demi parure Feuilles, circa 1947
René Boivin, Sapphire and diamond demi parure Feuilles, circa 1947

When you come across a jewellery collection as consistently stunning and substantial as Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style, it’s a heart-stopping moment – the kind you know you’ll never forget. This collection, with its many, many dazzling signed jewels from the most beloved and sought-after design periods in jewellery history, is truly one of a kind and one of the most important private jewellery collections I’ve ever seen. It is an incredibly powerful and sophisticated love letter to jewellery from an enlightened private collector which I know will inspire other collectors and connoisseurs all around the world.
Marie-Cécile Cisamolo, jewelery specialist, Sotheby’s Geneva

The collection is estimated at between 4.7 and 7.3 million Swiss francs (i.e. between 5.4 million and 8.3 million dollars) and will be offered in two sales sessions: 46 jewels will be offered on May 14th in the sale of Magnificent Jewels, during the Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva. Another 200 pieces, however, will be sold online from May 2nd with offers closing on May 16th.

Bulgari, a Serpenti bracelet watch, aka Theodorus
Bulgari, a Serpenti bracelet watch, aka Theodorus

The selection is a tribute to 20th century jewelry design and an encyclopedic showcase of its most iconic pieces and most influential trends, exemplified by creations from the most prestigious jewelry houses including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chaumet , David Webb, Mauboussin, Marina B, Sterlé and Mellerio dits Meller. A special place, with 30 jewels, is reserved for the Maison founded by one of the designers who made the history of jewellery: René Boivin. Famous for his intricately crafted and brightly colored jewels, Boivin’s style has exerted great fascination on the private collector who, over time, has purchased what may be the largest selection of works by the French jeweller.
Bulgari, orecchini, con incastonati due diamanti Fancy Intense Yellow del peso di poco meno di 10 carati ciascuno appartenuti alla Baronessa di Portanova
Bulgari, earrings, set with two Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds weighing just under 10 carats each, belonging to the Baroness of Portanova

The most precious pieces
Among the top lots there are creations by Bulgari, including an exceptional pair of earrings, set with two Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds weighing just under 10 carats each and previously belonging to the legendary Baroness of Portanova (estimate 400,000-600,000 francs). American socialite. Presented alongside the imposing pair of earrings is a rare Serpenti Theodorus bracelet watch, accompanied by an original drawing from the Bulgari archive dated 1968 (200,000-400,000).
Cartier, bracciale Panthère
Cartier, Panthère bracelet

Other iconic pieces include those from Cartier, including a 1969 Panthère bracelet (250,000-350,000) and an exquisite Tutti Frutti bracelet (200,000-400,000), a choker and earring set by Marina B, intricately set with carved amethyst ( 30,000-50,000), as well as a transformable Passe-Partout set from the 1940s by Van Cleef & Arpels consisting of a necklace, three brooches and a pair of clip earrings (80,000-120,000).
Van Cleef & Arpels, Passe partout necklace, brooch and earring suite
Van Cleef & Arpels, Passe partout necklace, brooch and earring suite

Redefine the Jewel with a knot

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Elena Berti, Margià. Foto: Giulia Vigo

Redefining Jewelery returns to the Bijou Museum in Casalmaggiore (Cremona). On display there are 43 contemporary jewels designed by Italian and foreign artists (from March 23 to June 9, 2024). The project, born in 2010 from an idea by the curator Sonia Patrizia Catena, is an annual competition that stimulates the design and creation of a contemporary jewel. For this edition, Redefining Jewelry asked artists to design a jewel that enhances the memory of the creations exhibited at the Bijou Museum, inviting them to take inspiration from the oldest knot-shaped jewels to reinterpret the structure and meaning through own contemporary language and artistic research.

The museum aims to connect different worlds, styles, eras and creations. The selected jewels offer a review based on woven thread: from the formal study of the knot to the weaves, with jewelery that mixes styles and materials. In each edition, Redefining Jewelery welcomes an artist from the world of contemporary art to talk about the theme of the competition. This year the invited artist is Marisa Iotti who has outlined an exhibition itinerary called Ànemos0 with sculptures, installations and fiber art works.

The jewels of Patrizia Giachero, winner of the Contemporary Jewelery competition organized by the Rossini Gallery in Milan in April 2023, and the drawings of Carmela Barbato from the Trame Mediterranee series will also be on display. Also for this edition the winners will receive special prizes from the cultural partners of Ridefinire il Gioiello. The winners will have the opportunity to exhibit in Milan at Marco Rossini’s Galleria Rossini and at Circuiti Dinamici for the wunderkammera project. A recommended artist will be able to obtain a period of artistic residency at La Stazione degli Artisti in Gambettola thanks to the Bosco Urban Art Project festival, while the Bijou Museum will decide a winner for a temporary exhibition point within the museum spaces.

Who participates

Andrea Benoni – Katalyxer, Atelier Effetti – Flavia Turone, Brigitta Petrovszki Lajszki, Chimajarno, Collezione Siku – Graziana Giunta, Cristina Croce, Cristina Lottero, de Cor produzioni, donidelmare gioielli di Emily DeVito e Roberto Coppola, Elena Berti Margià, Elena Ramaparelli, Elenadp Crea, Ellence, Elli Atelier Gioielleria Contemporanea, Ely Milano Jewelry, Erika Mazzola, FiloGioielli di Filomena Di Camillo, Francesca Romana Sansoni – Segni di terra, Gaia Descovich Jewels, Gianfranco Quartaroli – Circuiti Gioielli, Gioi Giulia Vignetti, La Chigi, Laetitia Autrand, Lamobijoux – Maurizio Mo, LeMari Riciclano, Luisa Capua – Z’Atelier, Maria Cristina Codecasa Conti – Le Troisième Songe, Michela Guatto, Monica Ungarelli, NearteNeparte art&craft di Anna Esposito, Oplà! Michela Deanesi, Paolacreart – Paola Marzoli, Paolella_Rakuecrochet di Paola Cisterni – Elena Ramparelli, Pasly – Pasqualina Tripodi, Patrizia Giachero, Roger Cavinatto, Rosalba Rombolà Gioielli, Rosella Catalano, Rovescio Pensieri d’arte di Roberta Pozzi, SilverStrass – Silvia Orani, Valentina Grotto, Vera Rossini – Cakes & Troubles

Tiffany Story on display in Tokyo

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Spilla disegnata da Jean Schlumberger con diamanti e acquamarina

Tiffany Wonder is the title of the exhibition organized in Tokyo which brings together hundreds of design masterpieces from the American Maison. The exhibition is set up at the Tokyo Node gallery, inside the Toranomon Hills Station Tower, in the Japanese capital, and will continue until June 23rd. Tickets are available until June 23 on the Tiffany & Co. app, downloadable in the iOS and Google Play app stores. The exhibition is an opportunity to admire the legendary Tiffany diamonds and jewels that have marked the history of the most famous brand in the world. In the different rooms, visitors will discover exceptional objects, which tell the story of almost 200 years of Tiffany & Co.’s history, such as the first Blue Book, the first mail order catalogue, one of the first Blue Boxes.

Garden of Imagination con le spille di Jean Schlumberger
Garden of Imagination with pins by Jean Schlumberger

Tiffany Wonder aims to intrigue, inform and inspire visitors with unique creations, ranging from one of the most famous pieces of high jewelry, the Bird on a Rock brooch by Jean Schlumberger, to the innovations the Tiffany Diamond system, or the Tiffany Setting to stop a solitaire diamond.

Tiffany & Co. has been inspired by Japan for decades, and the House’s authentic relationship and long history with that region of the world has only grown. Our latest exhibition showcases some of the most exceptional creations, such as the first Bird on a Rock brooch from 1965, designed by Jean Schlumberger, one of the most talented designers of the 20th century. The exhibition, which highlights Tiffany’s exceptional craftsmanship, unparalleled authority in diamonds and inventiveness, will convey the joy of the House to every visitor.
Anthony Ledru, President & Chief Executive Officer, Tiffany & Co

Anthony e Victoria Ledru.
Anthony and Victoria Ledru. Photo: Courtesy of BFA

Tiffany & Co.’s relationship with Japan dates back to 1837, when Charles Lewis Tiffany began offering his customers selected imported Japanese goods, a rarity on the American market. Many of the House’s best designers, such as Edward C. Moore, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Elsa Peretti, have found inspiration in their work in the arts of Japan. A celebration of respect and creativity, with various points of the exhibition dedicated to Tiffany & Co.’s ties to Japan.
La spilla Dragonfly
Dragonfly brooch

Tiffany Wonder
Tiffany Wonder

Villa Milano at Pad Paris

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Orecchini gotici con rubini e diamanti

After its presence at GemGenève, Villa Milano returns to be present in a foreign event. The Milanese maison founded in 1876, also known for its vast offering of cufflinks, as well as jewellery, will be for the first time at Pad Parigi, which was the first fair, 26 years ago, to bring together in a single event featuring the best international and French galleries of historical and contemporary design. From 3 to 7 April Villa Milano will participate in the Salone (Stand 31) under the curatorship of Second Pétale, the Parisian art gallery founded by Arina Pouzoullic, an entrepreneur who founded her gallery in Paris in 2019.

Orecchini quilted in oro e diamanti
Quilted earrings in gold and diamonds

Alice Villa looks to the world of art as a reference in her creations, where her cultural legitimacy can be extended, transcending the functional elements strictly linked to the use of jewellery. An example is the bracelet inspired by the architectural style of the Duomo in Milan.
Anello in acciaio damasco con tormalina
Damask steel ring with tourmaline

Pad Paris and the collaboration with Second Pétale represent a new important step for the history of Villa Milano, I thank Arina Pouzoullic for giving me the opportunity to look into this reality. Approaching a universe that is still somewhat new represents an important challenge, but I am convinced that jewelry has every right to be able to occupy a significant space in the art world.
Alice Villa, CEO and Creative Director of Villa Milano

Alice Villa
Alice Villa. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale in oro e argento brunito ispirato a un motivo architettonico del Duomo di Milano. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracelet in gold and burnished silver inspired by an architectural motif of the Milan Cathedral. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Marco Bicego in Shanghai

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Store Marco Bicego, Shanghai

Marco Bicego’s jewels in Shanghai. The Italian fine jewelry brand continues its international expansion plan with the opening of a flagship store in the large Chinese city, in the prestigious Grand Gateway 66 complex. The shopping center is one of the largest and most popular in Shanghai and a point of reference for the Xujiahui district, one of the main commercial areas and logistics hub for the south-western area of the city. The mall’s glass dome allows maximum natural light to enter and creates a warm and inviting environment for visitors. The center boasts the presence of international luxury brands, as well as a wide choice of retailers specializing in the fashion, beauty, jewellery, watches, sports and fitness sectors. With a surface area of approximately 75 square meters, the new Marco Bicego boutique is located on the ground floor of the mall, an area that welcomes the highest number of visitors.

Marco Bicego flagship store, Shanghai
Marco Bicego flagship store, Shanghai

The design features details such as refined displays and soft, delicate lights. Inside we find brown Italian marble accents, soft beige surfaces and contrasting glass cabinets, while pink velvet armchairs create a relaxing and comfortable atmosphere. The aesthetics of the boutique therefore takes up the visual identity of the Marco Bicego stores around the world, combined through the craftsmanship that distinguishes the brand’s jewels: to enrich the spaces we also find the typical brass sculpture which takes up the motif on a large scale of the coil, iconic and exclusive workmanship of the brand.
Bracciale Marrakech
Marrakech bracelet

This boutique represents a great showcase at an international level and an important step forward in the brand’s growth strategy. We wanted to create a refined and luxurious environment in which to offer local and international customers the opportunity to appreciate Made in Italy creativity and craftsmanship, accompanying them in discovering the brand and collections. Especially in our sector, the physical experience with the product is still decisive: the new flagship store in Shanghai will become a crucial touch point for an ever-increasing number of people who will be able to discover the brand, touch the jewels first-hand and be inspired by our design. My heartfelt and sincere thanks go to our local partner Chow Sang Sang for supporting us, in all these years of close collaboration, in the brand building process in this key market.
Marco Bicego, founder and creative director of the brand

Marco Bicego. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Marco Bicego. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Competitions and prizes at GemGèneve

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Pietre preziose a GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As always, GemGenève combines business with pleasure or, more precisely, business with moments of training. The eighth edition scheduled from 9 to 12 May at the Palaexpo in Geneva is no exception. Alongside the jewels and gems of the exhibitors, there will be meetings and educational projects developed throughout the year in collaboration with the eight partner schools. Students from Head, the Vallée de Joux Technical School, Cpne Pôle Arts Appliqués, CFP Arts Genève, and the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur are invited to express their creativity and submit their work to professionals for the first time. , of the Société Royale Belge de Gemmologie, of the Galdus School and of the Francesco Degni Institute, who have the opportunity to exhibit their projects.

GemGenève has also developed an artistic mentoring program. The initiative, born from an idea by Mathieu Dekeukelaire, allows us to build bridges between the present and the future, federating a community that recognizes the right value in learning and transmitting know-how.

Uno dei momenti didattici a GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com
One of the teaching moments at GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gemgenève X Head in collaboration with the Grand Théâtre de Genève
For the fourth consecutive year GemGenève will offer around fifteen students from Head, the only school in Switzerland to offer a bachelor’s degree in product, jewelery and accessories design, the opportunity of their first exhibition based on a theme freely inspired by the programming of the Grand Théâtre de Genève. Visitors to the show will be able to discover a series of projects inspired by the opera The Knight of the Rose by Richard Strauss. The idea is to imagine a jewel that symbolizes commitment, but is also a real prop. Ring, necklace, bracelet or tiara: the jewel must be visible from afar and made exclusively with recycled, recovered or unusual materials. All visitors to the exhibition will be invited to vote for their favorite project.
Design 3D Project Feh X Head. Emma Faisandel, Madeleine Chaumette
Design 3D Project Feh X Head. Emma Faisandel, Madeleine Chaumette

First photomicrography competition
This year, GemGenève offers its visitors a poetic gemological experience. In the hope of discovering the beauty of gems in an unusual way, the salon has developed an original artistic project in collaboration with gemologist Marine Bouvier, the Institut de Bijouterie de Saumur and the Royal Belgian Gemmological Society. GemGenève hosts the first exhibition of photomicrographs. Almost 20 photographic projects created by the students of the two partner training proposals will be revealed to the public for the first time, to reveal the beauty of precious and colored stones by sublimating their inclusions. By revealing the inexhaustible shapes, textures and colors of gems, Marine Bouvier has created a new way of practicing gemology. For this first competition the passionate gemologist introduced the students to the art of capturing the beauty of minerals.
Rubino birmano grezzo
Rough Burmese ruby

For its 8th edition, GemGenève continues its collaboration with Laura Inghirami and Mathieu Dekeukelaire, who created an unprecedented competition on the mystical theme of the totem animal. Fauna creatures, an inexhaustible source of inspiration, have always stimulated the imagination of jewelers. Using the animal as a creative challenge, GemGenève offers the young prodigies of the Galdus School and the Francesco Degni Institute the chance to create their first bestiary. Some projects, investigating the symbolic link between the human world and the animal world, proved to be particularly poetic.

GemGèneve will also host six awards for the most creative projects. The awards ceremony will be chaired by Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director of GemGenève, in the presence of all the institutions that collaborated on the various projects.

Project GemGenève x Head. Clara Fichaux
Project GemGenève x Head. Clara Fichaux

To offer students the opportunity to develop their first professional project of excellence, GemGenève launched its first gouache competition in 2022. Thanks to the success of the competition, which engages students for several months, GemGenève has become a springboard. The gouache competition, supported with the Eric Horovitz Foundation Prize, is highly appreciated by operators in the sector and is organized every year with the support of Asmebi (Association Romande des Métiers de la Bijouterie). Gouache, or gouache, is a drawing technique used in jewelry and a point of reference for model makers, jewelers, gemologists, polishers and setters in every phase of the creation of a jewel.

Projet Feh x Head. Shell, design 3D, Emma Faisandel et Madeleine Chaumette
Projet Feh x Head. Shell, design 3D, Emma Faisandel et Madeleine Chaumette

Dave Meleski president of the Responsible Jewelery Council

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Lavorazione della collana di Graff

Dave Meleski, president and CEO of Richline Group, has been elected president of the Responsible Jewelery Council. RJC is the leading authority on global watch and jewelery standards, working with its members around the world to create a sustainable supply chain from mine to retail. It was formed in 2005 by 14 top-tier brands and financial institutions with the goal of transforming sustainability from an afterthought to a major driving force for change. Today it has over 1,800 member companies in 71 countries. Meleski replaces David Bouffard who leaves the position, after being elected in 2018 for two three-year terms.

This is a critical time for RJC to continue to grow and lead the global supply chain in setting the standards for our industry. Richline has been involved at board and committee levels since the RJC’s inception, and as a global manufacturing company with retail customers around the world, we have helped promote the importance of the RJC as our single voice for compliance standards.
Dave Meleski

Dave Meleski
Dave Meleski

It has been an honor to serve as RJC President for six years – a truly challenging but rewarding experience of a lifetime, especially representing Signet, one of the RJC Founding Members. Companies like Signet and Richline, along with esteemed team members and boards of directors, have transformed the RJC over the past 20 years from an organization with 14 founding members when it launched in 2005 to an organization that grows stronger every month with over 1,800 members to date.
David Bouffard, outgoing RJC President and Signet Fellow of Industrial Affairs

David-Bouffard
David-Bouffard

Melanie Grant, executive director of the RJC, will report directly to Meleski. RJC would also like to thank Edward Asscher, honorary president of Asscher Diamonds, for volunteering to run for president and he will remain vice president of the organization.
Modella con gioielli
Model with jewelry

Art and jewelery in Rome

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Vite parallele, di Francesco Ridolfi

Jewelery and figurative arts at the Incinque Open Art Monti gallery in Rome. The space will host the Sinopie exhibition by Emiliano Alfonsi from 16 to 30 March as part of the Incinque Jewels project curated by Monica Cecchini. The objective is to make contemporary jewelery dialogue with other forms of art. The Sinopie project, curated by art historian Carmen Bellalba, was born as an itinerant project with the intention of being disseminated nationally among museums, exhibition spaces and places of culture. Alfonsi, born in 1980, creates his works using an ancient technique dating back to 1400, egg painting, for subjects that recall the Tuscan and Flemish Renaissance, but also the Pre-Raphaelites.

Opera di Emiliano Alfonsi
Opera di Emiliano Alfonsi

During the Sinopie exhibition period, the exhibition of the winner of the Rome Jewelry Week 2023, Francesco Ridolfi, will also be inaugurated on Thursday 21 March, who will compare himself with the creations of Emiliano Alfonsi and the other resident artists of Incinque Jewels. Ridolfi was selected as first place in the Incinque Jewels Award, with a Second Life theme, for his jewel Vite parallele. «Two parallel worlds, one natural and one artificial. A new horizon that opens up to many possibilities or an alienating destiny that will change us forever? On one side there is a beating heart that is linked to two roots of a tree, on the other a binary code and microchip. The two universes will probably coexist, only man will decide that”, explains the artist.
Myriam Bottazzi
Myriam Bottazzi

The works, some unpublished, by Emiliano Alfonsi will be on display and for Incinque Jewels the jewels of Myriam Bottazzi, Detailsdattimi, Chiara Fenicia, Claudio and Roberto Franchi, Angela Gentile, Emanuele Leonardi, Paolo Mangano, Maria Patrizia Marra, Matuta jewels, Maria Gaia Piccini, Anna Pinzari, Francesco Ridolfi, Simone Vera Bath and Lorella Verrillo.
Matuta gioielli
Matuta gioielli

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