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Aquamarine at x-ray

All you need to know about one of the gems most loved by jewelry: the aquamarine, which is also the stone of the month of March ♦

The aquamarine is one of the stones most used in jewelry. Major brands of jewelry have included it in their collections. Yet it is little known by the general public that ignores the quality and, above all, the features.

Anello Lyla's Bow con diamanti acquamarina brasiliana
Vania Leles, Lyla’s Bow ring with Brazilian aquamarine diamonds

Identikit. Transparent and crystalline: not by chance is called aquamarine that glitter even under lowlight conditions. A quality that makes it a “star” of fine jewelry. Like emerald, is a stone that belongs to the beryl family. The structure, however, is very different from the green gem: the iron impurities inside give that deep azure blue color, while chromium and vanadium tinged with green emerald. Almost always, the aquamarine is without inclusions: whether appear the star effect or the one called cat eyes it becomes invaluable. Its hardness allows jewelers to experiment with innovative cuts and, in fact, has been used for the Color du Temps necklace from the Peau d’âne collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, for the jewelry designed by Tiffany in the movie The Great Gatsby, for the Bulgari Serpente bought by Justin Bieber during the charity auction at Cannes Film Festival.

Pomellato, bracciale Pom Pom in oro rosa e argento con 729 acquamarina taglio brillante per un totale di oltre 17 carati
Pomellato, Pom Pom bracelet in rose gold and silver with 729 brilliant cut aquamarine for a total of over 17 carats

Color. the range of colors of aquamarine is very narrow: blue, slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, blue-green, blue. The rarest shades are dark blue and slightly greenish blue. In general, the more intense is blue, greater is the stone value: that’s why the most common ones tend to light green.

Acquamarina allo stato naturale
Aquamarine in its natural state

Treatment. Aquamarine is a mineral that is almost always the subject of a treatment to make it more pleasant. Much of the aquamarine in its natural state, in fact, has a blue-green color. For this reason the stone is heated to a rather high temperature. This process can remove the greenish color from the material and transform the hue of the stone into a pleasant deep blue. So if they tell you that an aquamarine is absolutely natural you do not have to believe it. But this does not mean that the result can’t be appreciated.

Anello con acquamarina taglio cuscino, lato superiore . Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere
Lydia Courteille, ring with cushion cut aquamarine, upper side. Blue titanium, aquamarine, sapphires, maidenhair quartz

Provenance. The best known reserves of aquamarine are those in Minas Gerais, whose buds have a distinctive deep blue color. Always in Brazil there is the Santa Maria de Itabira mine with deep blue, stones which are a favorite choice of gemologists. Other deposits are exploited on an industrial scale in the Urals, Nigeria, Madagascar, Mozambique and Pakistan. As a rule, the color is saturated if weigh more than 5 carats, while the smaller stones are lighter, with the exception of some specimens from Madagascar, known for a very strong hues even if under 5 carats. That’s why it costs more compared to other stones of the same color, but as higher dimensions.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti
Sanalitro, ring with aquamarine and diamonds
Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. orecchini Seven Leaves con due aquamarine oval per un totale di 14,89 carati e diamanti taglio brillante
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Leaves earrings with two oval aquamarines for a total of 14.89 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds
Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina
Hemmerle, earrings in white gold, aluminium, silver, aquamarine
Spilla con acquamarina, oro bianco, diamanti
Naomi Sarna, brooch with aquamarine, white gold, diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Mirco Visconti, ring in white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Orecchini Trilliant, con oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina
Fadoua Hueb, Trilliant earrings, with white gold, diamonds and aquamarine
Fraleoni, anello con acquamarina
Fraleoni, ring with aquamarine

The combinations of Roule & Co

Playing volumes by Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire: a precious Tetris of jewelery ♦ ︎
Maybe Christopher Roule and Laurin Lucaire are passionate about Tetris, the game that consists of combining geometric geometric shapes. Perhaps yes, because the jewels of their Roule & Co brand, born in New York in 2010, who for the second consecutive year arrived among the finalists at the Las Vegas Couture Design Award, seem to be assorted by combining the simplest geometric shapes, such as triangles , circles, squares. Only combinations are multiplied and the same volumes of jewels are covered by other small areas, in turn triangles, circles, hexes, and so on.

Bracciale in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti4
18k yellow gold and diamond bracelet

Like the forms of Tetris must be complementary, so is the work of Christopher and Laurin, husband and wife who founded the jewelery brand. The simplicity of the style is only apparent: in fact jewelry often surprising with the possibility of the enclosed elements, as small precious stones. But jewels also have architectural references, as in the Wired collection inspired by the hyperbole of engineering used by archistar and past characters, such as Buckminster Fuller, Gustave Eiffel and Antoni Gaudí.

Orecchini in oro brunito e rubini
Blackened gold and ruby earrings
Laurin-Lucaire
Laurin Lucaire
Ciondolo in oro rosa e rubini
Pendant in rose gold and rubies
Anello in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti champagne
14k rose gold and champagne diamond ring
Anello in oro bianco annerito con ametista cabochon e diamanti bianchi
Blackened white gold ring with cabochon amethyst and white diamonds
Ciondolo in oro rosa 14 carati e diamanti bianchi
Pendant in 14k rose gold and white diamonds

The sinuous jewels of Marta Paolillo

Destiny is a curved line, often with a tortuous path that turns into small labyrinths, curls, broken circles. The curves are those designed by Marta Paolillo, one of the Italian design signatures, based in Rome. She is one of the few capable of proposing something different, and also one of the few who can boast a starred pedigree. Meanwhile, her birthplace is on her side: the family has been working with stones and jewels since 1880. And with her father, a diamond and precious stone trader, she has traveled the world and boasts first-hand knowledge of the market. But she also graduated from the Gemological Institute of America and founded the IGL, Gemmological Analysis Laboratory with which she carries out appraisal reports.

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri e diamanti
OEarrings in white gold, sapphires and diamonds

In short, for her the stones have no secrets. However, it is the use she makes of it that makes her proposal special: the jewels have a linear and at the same time baroque style, they are rich, but at the same time sober, they are large, but at the same time light. She is also attentive to new technologies and she uses materials such as titanium, carbon steel, Stingray leather (galuchat), alongside the classic 18k gold. Collections like Snake, which takes up the classic snake motif, are the height of sinuosity. Others, like Jaipur, combine the convolutions of the metal with the color of the stones. And there is no shortage of surprising proposals: such as the deck of (flexible) playing cards in gold.
Anello in oro 18 carati
18k gold ring

Orecchini in oro
Gold earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendant earrings in white gold, sapphires, diamonds
Marta Paolillo
Marta Paolillo
Anello serpente in oro e diamanti
Snake ring in gold and diamonds

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

Neha Dani, rhodium, titanium and fireworks

The precious jewels with flowers and leaves of the Indian designer Neha Dani. Also with Titanium Collection ♦

From her office in New Delhi to the boutiques of Europe and the US: Neha Dani is a designer (but perhaps it would be better to call an artist of jewelry), which has succeeded in becoming an international signature. Take a look at the jewels on this page and you’ll understand why. Someone wrinkles the nose to the use of rhodium to give particular nuances to the metal, but in reality this is just a detail of what is the creative process of Neha Dani.

Anello Amishi ispirato alle fronde delle palme. I dettagli sono incisi nella cera dall'artista, aggiungendo e scolpendo il materiale fino a ottenere la forma finale perfetta dell'anello
Amishi ring inspired by palm fronds. Details are etched into the wax by the artist, adding and sculpting material until the perfect final shape of the ring is achieved

The jewels created are unique pieces which exalt the precious stones used around the 18-carat gold structure. Although the shapes may appear abstract, the themes of the natural world and human emotions are present in each piece: dried leaves and petals of flowers are among those that occur most often in the creations of Indian designers. The contours of necklaces or rings are flexed, as if they were bent by the wind: a choice that gives lightness to even the most elaborate jewels. Dani is a member of Gemological of England and has a diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. The price of her jewelry starts at about $ 18,000.

Bracciale Bonita in oro 18 carati con rodio blu, diamanti e zaffiri blu
Bonita bracelet in 18k gold with blue rhodium, diamonds and blue sapphires
Orecchini Talia con zaffiri blu e diamanti
Talia earrings with blue sapphires and diamonds
Orecchini Erith in oro rosa, con diamanti brown di diverse sfumature
Erith earrings in rose gold, with brown diamonds of different shades
Anello Nerida in oro bianco e diamanti, con al centro un diamante taglio rosa di 4,21 carati
Nerida ring in white gold and diamonds, with a 4.21 carat rose-cut diamond in the centre
Orecchini con diamanti e oro brunito
Earrings with diamonds and burnished gold
Anello Myra in oro rodiato verde, diamanti e tsavorite
Myra ring in green rhodium-plated gold, diamonds and tsavorite
Neha Dani
Neha Dani

Hannah Martin, pride and Rock N ‘Roll

The limited edition of fine jewelry by Hannah Martin, in London ♦

The Central St Martins School in London deserves a medal (in gold, of course) to be an inexhaustible factory of high-level designers. One is Hannah Martin (almost the same name of the school, coincidentally), who started working as a consultant for other luxury brands in Paris, Place Vendôme area. Inevitably, then she harnessed her capacity with a brand that bears her name, along with business partner, Nathan Morse.

Piercing in oOro giallo 18 carati con perla marrone di Tahiti e diamanti champagne
Piercing in oOro giallo 18 carati con perla marrone di Tahiti e diamanti champagne

In 2005 she founded in London her brand. Her philosophy, a little ‘surprise, it’s based on three pillars which at first glance are not all connected with the jewelry: authenticity, creativity and honesty. Three important values, as essential stylistic choices, combined with the focus on the technical aspects of implementation. Many pieces are made to order, others are limited editions. Each piece is handmade by the best craftsmen in London, in the laboratory of the company or through an intricate network of specialists in Hatton Garden “We are unabashedly proud of our direct link with the historic nature of the trade,” is the comment by Hannah Martin. The results give the reason. As the It’s Only Rock N ‘Roll collection, which has its references from the idea of ​​a youth style.

Anello Teardrop in oro
Gold teardrop ring
Piercing Teardrop in oro
Gold teardrop piercing
Ciondolo in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamonds
Hannah Martin a GemGenève
Hannah Martin. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The Cristina Sabatini’s formula

Cristina Sabatini, fashion jewelry and bright colors made in New York. Here are the latest news from the brand ♦ ︎

Italian of origin, born Brazilian, US Citizenship. Cristina Sabatini in New York founded, in 2012, a small empire of accessories, including vibrant jewelry, at affordable prices, and with access to the stars as Lady Gaga, who adopted them. And you understand why: Cristina Sabatini’s jewels are eclectic, unorthodox, they are noteworthy. The designer has a very elaborate concept of her creations: swinging colors, exotic skins, resin, sterling silver, 18k gold, precious and semiprecious stones. An original mix that can astonish you. As in the case of her “gladiator” bracelets, available in ten different colors and combinations.

Anello Serpente in bronzo placcato oro
Serpente ring in gold-plated bronze

The formula was successful and Cristina Sabatini, as well as convincing stars like Lady Gaga, Carrie Underwood, Rhonda Rousey, Teyonah Parris and Danielle Panabaker, opened five luxury boutiques around the world. Her fashion jewelry is also the result of a mix of experiences, styles and emotions she has gathered in her travels. But not only. If you are curious, know that when she does not plan, Cristina spends time with her husband, two children and a beloved bulldog, Louis.

Orecchini Rosalie, bronzo placcato oro, madreperla
Rosalie earrings, gold-plated bronze, mother-of-pearl
Anello Porto Cervo in ottone placcato oro, madreperla, rodio
Porto Cervo ring in gold-plated brass, mother-of-pearl and rhodium
Orecchini Porto Cervo, ottone placcato oro, madreperla, abalone
Porto Cervo earrings, gold plated brass, mother of pearl, abalone
Collana Penelope in ottone placcato oro, madreperla
Penelope necklace in gold plated brass, mother of pearl
Anello Maldive in bronzo placcato oro, madreperla, rodio
Maldive ring in gold plated bronze, mother of pearl, rhodium
Anello Cambodia in bronzo placcato oro
Cambodia ring in gold-plated bronze

The 10 least expensive Tiffany bracelets

Are you looking for a Tiffany bracelet? You don’t have to rob a bank. Here are 10 less expensive Tiffany bracelets: review with pictures and prices ♦ ︎

Tiffany and Co has a long history behind it: it was founded in 1837 and has become a jewelry giant, with over 300 stores in 27 countries. Not only that: it sells jewels for about 4,4 billion dollars (in 2019). Among other things, in recent years Tiffany has also been committed “to reducing environmental impact, respecting human rights and contributing positively to communities”, with careful management regarding gold, which is extracted exclusively from a mine that is identified publicly or from recycled sources.

Audrey Hepburn in «Colazione da Tiffany»
Audrey Hepburn in «Colazione da Tiffany», davanti alle vetrine del negozio di New York

This is to say that the brand is historical, but at the same time remains modern, current and refined. But Tiffany’s jewels are also considered, erroneously, unattainable, of an inaccessible luxury. This is true with regard to high jewelery or pieces in gold and large precious stones. But it does not correspond to reality for silver jewels, even design, which can be purchased at a cost really affordable for everyone. Here, for example, the 10 least expensive Tiffany bracelets (prices updated in December 2023). The novelty concerns the bracelets which are sold exclusively online. All bracelets are in silver.

1

Tiffany Infinity, solo online. 260 euro
Tiffany Infinity, online only. 260 euros

2

Bracciale Tiffany Infinity, solo online. 260 euro
Tiffany Infinity bracelet, online only. 260 euros

3

Bead Heart Tag. 300 euro
Bead Heart Tag. 300 euros

4

Bracciale Bead con chiusura toggle. 300 euro
Bead bracelet with toggle clasp. 300 euros

5

Bracciale Bead Heart Tag versione rosa. Disponibile anche verde, rosso, fuchsia. 300 euro
Bead Heart Tag bracelet pink version. Also available in green, red, fuchsia. 300 euros

6

Bracciale a maglie tonde. Solo online. 300 euro
Round link bracelet. Online only. 300 euros

7

Bracciale Loving Heart disegnato da Paloma Picasso- 310 euro
Loving Heart bracelet designed by Paloma Picasso. 310 euros

8

Tiffany Infinity a maglie grosse. Solo online. 320 euro
Tiffany Infinity in chunky links. Online only. 320 euros

9

Collezione Return to Tiffany, bracciale Heart Tag a doppia catena. 330 euro
Return to Tiffany collection, double chain Heart Tag bracelet. 330 euros

10

Bracciale Arrow, collezione Graffiti di Paloma Picasso. 380 euro
Arrow bracelet, Graffiti collection by Paloma Picasso. 380 euros

The precious dreams of Morphée

The refined collections of Morphée Joaillerie.

Morpheus is a myth associated with sleep, peace and tranquility. But in the jewelery shop he evokes a Parisian Maison («a few steps from the famous Place Vendôme») that wants to «crystallize the dreams of mankind through the use of gold and precious stones». Morphée Joaillerie, on the other hand, arose from the dreams of Belgian designer Pamela Hastry. Her jewels are limited edition, just like the wishes that can be realized, but with the possibility of producing them to measure. Pamela learned her trade in London, refined it in Rome, and sells it in Paris. Ah, Pamela Hastry is also a gemologist. In short, a first class trip.

Orecchini della collezione Florealis in oro, diamanti, tormalina rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings from the Florealis collection in gold, diamonds, pink tourmaline. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Skilled French artisans transform her ideas into collections based on cherry blossoms, butterflies, buttercups and forget-me-nots. But also Make a Wish or Millésime. If the ingredients on Morphée’s menu are not surprising (gold, precious stones), the lightness and composition of the individual pieces are completely original. A symbolic collection, in the high jewelery line, is Florealis, which uses diamonds and rubellite for jewels inspired by the delicate and complicated patterns of flowers. The Maison also recently renewed its website.
Morphee Joaillerie bracciale a fascia diamanti bianchi e fancy gialli copyright gioiellis
Morphée Joaillerie, band bracelet with white and yellow diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale a fascia con diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Band bracelet with white diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello della collezione Florealis con diamanti e rubellite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring from the Florealis collection with diamonds and rubellite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Collana della collezione Florealis. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace from the Florealis collection. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini doppi con diamanti e tormaline rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Double earrings with diamonds and pink tourmalines. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con diamanti fancy gialli. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings with fancy yellow diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

China in Milan with Michela Bruni Reichlin

The jewels of Michela Bruni Reichlin, the Milanese designer with a Monte Napoleone style ♦

Daughter of a former ambassador to Beijing, with a prominent family behind, wife of a designer who works in New York (Riccardo Gambaccini): Michela Bruni Reichlin designs jewelry and sells them in his boutique in Milan. It is not just a simple street: it’s Via Monte Napoleone, one of the world’s luxury shopping streets. But the jewels of Michela Bruni Reichlin also have another aspect that distinguishes them: they are between East and West, the result of many trips to China in the period (late nineties) in which the father, Paolo Bruni, represented Italy. The experience in China is also the basis of some of the stylistic choices: for example, the use of jade, but also some of iconographic motifs, such as dragons or masks. It is not, however, a jewelry store that mimics an ethnic style, even though he loves the combination of semi-precious stones such as jade, agate, coral, onyx and turquoise with gold and diamonds.

Orecchini con diamanti
Diamond earrings

In short, if she were a chef, the designer would proposes a fusion menu, with large variations: there are jewels that can be assimilated to luxury jewelery, up to those proposed to several thousand euro. Another aspect to be emphasized: all the earrings are made of two parts, an upper and a pendant. They are interchangeable jewelry, so as to multiply the combinations. Basically, if you buy two pieces if they get four. An optional that is appreciated, and not only by Milanese customers.

Collana con corallo
Coral necklace
Michela Bruni Reichlin
Michela Bruni Reichlin
Orecchini con giada lavanda, rubellite e perle
Earrings with lavender jade, rubellite and pearls
Orecchini con ametista e quarzo lemon
Earrings with amethyst and lemon quartz

Kalevala, the jewels from the big chili

The Finnish brand Kalevala Jewelry presents, among others, the Kosmos collection designed by the Italian Antonio Mazzamauro ♦

The big chill jewelry. Or, if you prefer, the favorite jewelry by the Finns. Kalevala Jewelry is one of the most popular brands ever in the Scandinavian country. The company has a long history: it was founded by a writer, Elsa Heporauta, in 1930, in a fairly random fashion. In fact, her goal was to raise funds to erect a statue in honor of the Finnish woman.

Elsa Heporauta
Elsa Heporauta

Elsa and other women have decided to make and sell jewelry inspired by those from the Viking era. They started with the selection of 40 models from the historical collections of the National Museum of Finland. The first collection was in 1937 and debuted at a tea party with the First Lady of Finland, Kaisa Kallio. But the Second World War interrupted the project. The company, however, was reborn in 1947 and the brand has focused on new designers. The business took off. This is not a small craft brand: is a company that produces jewelry with Nordic design, but mass. With some differences, it is a kind of Ikea of jewels. Everything, however, is produced in Finland, bronze, silver or gold. With the success the dream of Elsa Heporauta finally came true and the statue of the Finnish woman resides in the premises of Kalevala jewelry factory in Pitäjänmäki, Helsinki. If you like, the jewelry are also sold online.

Kalevala Jotos Bracelet
Jotos Bracelet, gold
Summer Night Rose Hairband silver
Summer Night Rose Hairband silver
Orecchini Kosmos. Prezzo: 112 euro
Kosmos earrings
Collana Fiore della neve
Snow Flower Necklace
Orecchini Fairwind
Fairwind earrings
Orecchini Polaris in oro
Polaris earrings in gold

Ilenia Corti between dream and reality

Ilenia Corti: jewelry, fashion, fantasy, made in Italy, eclecticism, tradition, accessories, dream… ♦︎

In some old photos circulating on the web, she resembles a very bad movie character: Bellatrix Lestrange from the Harry Potter series. In reality Ilenia Corti is not bad, but creative. You are among the designers in the fluid area of fashion which is also most appreciated internationally, as well as by prestigious brands with which you have worked. Names like Dolce & Gabbana, Casadei, Cacharel, Acne Studios, Marimekko, Emilio Pucci, Moschino. But, even if her work is difficult to classify, jewelry is her starting point: she grew up in a family of jewelers, Santagostino di Valenza, active since 1969. And it is Santagostino who creates the collections designed by Ileana.

Collezione Microcosm,anello in oro giallo con decorazioni a forma di rana, funghi
Microcosm collection, yellow gold ring with frog and mushroom decorations

With a family of jewelers behind her and the atmosphere of Valenza, the Italian capital of high jewellery, the designer adores the Scandinavian atmospheres, the chromatic notes of her uncontaminated landscapes. Her style? Between childhood memories, tropical suggestions, with orchids, poisonous frogs, Amazonian foliage, climbing monkeys, carnivorous plants. The mix of materials used is also eclectic: from diamonds to Swarovski crystals, from silver to simple golden brass. Each creation is modeled and finely carved by hand, right down to the cuts and settings of the stones.

Con alle spalle una famiglia di gioiellieri e l’atmosfera di Valenza, capitale italiana adell’alta gioielleria, la designer adora le atmosfere scandinave, le note cromatiche dei suoi paesaggi incontaminati.  Il suo stile?Tra ricordi di infanzia, suggestioni tropicali,  con orchidee, rane velenose, foliage amazzonico, scimmie rampicanti, piante carnivore. È eclettico anche il mix di materiali utilizzato: dai diamanti ai cristalli Swarovski, dall’argento al semplice ottone dorato. Ogni creazione è modellata e finemente intagliata a mano, fino ai tagli e alle incastonature delle pietre.

Anello in oro giallo con decorazioni di rana e funghi
Yellow gold ring with frog and mushroom decorations
Anello falena in argento dorato e smalto
Moth ring in gilded silver and enamel/caption]

[caption id="attachment_119211" align="aligncenter" width="709"]Anello fungo velenoso in oro 18 carati e diamanti per 4,56 carati Toadstool ring in 18k gold and diamonds for 4.56 carats

Orecchini uovo in oro 18 carati
Egg earrings in 18k gold
Orecchini in ottone
Brass earrings

Emerald success for Crieri

Green is in fashion: it is synonymous with environment, nature, hope. But also of emeralds which, in truth, have never gone out of fashion. As the story of Crieri can testify, a jewelry brand made in Valenza (Italy) which, among its finest collections, has one dedicated to the green stone par excellence. The Bogotà collection, as its name indicates, is dedicated to Colombian emeralds. Stones that, according to the company, were at the center of the first trip to the Colombian capital of the company founder, Alessandro Saracino, in 1996. And in the historic district, where Colombian emerald dealers meet every day to buy and sell gemme, in 2005 by Alessandro Saracino he opened the first office.

Anello con smeraldo di 6,5 carati e diamanti per 2,5 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 6.5 carats of emerald and 2.5 carats of diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The result is, in fact, the Bogotà collection, which turns on the lights on the transparencies, reflections and mysteries of the emerald (all the stones are certified by the gemmolgo Pio Visconti and the Swiss C. Dunaigre), mounted on white gold and surrounded by diamonds. A classic line, which brings together a series of classic high-end jewels, offered in a price range ranging from 5,000 to 300,000 euros.

Anello com smeraldo e diamanti taglio trilliant
Ring with emerald and trilliant cut diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo colombiano
Ring in white gold, diamonds, Colombian emerald
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo della collezione Bogotà
Ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald from the Bogotà collection
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Collier in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Necklace in white gold, diamonds, emerald
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldo
Earrings in white gold, diamonds, emerald

Anthony Lent, the face of fantasy

Rings with the moon, inspired by surrealist art, but also for children’s fairy tales: the fantasy of power with the goldsmith art of Anthony Lent ♦

There are children who seem to be adults already. And there are adults who do not want to grow. Or, better, they do not want to give up that fantasy world that corresponds to reality for the little ones. It’s the kingdom of Alice in Wonderland, or the Disney movies, or the Lord of the Rings saga, or fantasy. As Anthony Lent, which is a jeweler in New York who loves the animated objects. In particular, the jewels.

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con rubini e diamanti
18k yellow gold ring with rubies and diamonds

From 50 years Anthony Lent created small gold sculptures and precious stones or semi-precious stones, which have as a conductor a joyful style of fantasy. Eyes, faces that emerge from the metal, hands clinging to the stone of a ring: visionary images in jewels that are small handicraft sculptures.

Bracciale in oro
Gold bracelet

It is no coincidence that Anthony Lent studied sculpture at the Philadelphia College of Art (now the University of the Arts). And he discovered past artists like Benvenuto Cellini and Albrecht Dürer were also goldsmiths. Also René Lalique, René Boivin and Mario Buccellati were among the inspirers of her style. In 1971, Tony left Philadelphia and moved to Germany to continue his goldsmith training at the Fachhochschule in Schwäbisch-Gmünd. Back in the United States, he started his career as a jeweler in New York. Today he is joined by his sons, David and Max, who founded the Anthony Lent brand in 2013.

Braccialetto Moonface Gold Crescent
Moonface bracelet in 18k gold and diamond
Orecchini Star in oro 18 carati e diamante
Sunface pendant in 18k gold and diamond
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
18k gold ring with diamonds and pink sapphires
Orecchini Star in oro 18 carati e diamante
Star earrings in 18k gold and diamond
Orecchini Moonface in oro 18 carati e diamante
Moonface earrings in 18k gold and diamond
Anello Moonface in oro 18 carati, argento e diamanti
Moonface ring in 18k gold, silver and diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo, zaffiri, diamanti
Earrings in yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds
Anello in oro con perla di Tahiti
Gold ring with Tahitian pearl
Anello con luna crescente, oro, diamanti
Ring with crescent moon, gold, diamonds

How to clean a Pandora bracelet?

How to clean Pandora jewelry? Here are the tips for keeping Pandora jewelry bright

Pandora jewelry is among the most popular. Proposed years ago only in the silver version, especially the famous bracelets with charms, they are now also available in the Pandora Rose version, which consists of an alloy of silver and copper, with a plating used to prevent oxidation, or in Pandora Shine: silver with an 18-carat gold plating. On the jewels, moreover, there are also crystals and cubic zirconia, synthetic gems that resemble the diamond. Pandora jewelry also has another characteristic: they are usually worn often, even every day. They are, in fact, the classic jewels for everyday life: bracelets, earrings and necklaces that you choose without thinking too much, also because their price is quite affordable and you are less afraid of losing them.

Gioielli della linea Pandora Me indossati
Worn jewels from the Pandora Me line

Precisely for this reason, however, Pandora jewels can mist up earlier due to prolonged contact with the skin, or due to dust, or the wear of the plating. It is therefore important to regularly clean Pandora jewelry. For example, how to clean Pandora jewelry with pink alloy (but the method also applies to others)? Here’s how to do it: the tips are from Pandora itself. The shine of the metal can be maintained by regularly polishing the jewels with a soft cloth: just rub gently, paying attention to the surfaces where crystals or cubic zirconia are set. Too vigorous cleaning could ruin the subtle plating of Pandora Shine jewelry.

Elemento in Pandora Shine Simba
Pandora Shine Simba

Often Pandora jewels, which are finished by hand in the laboratories that the Danish company has made in Thailand, also have details in colored enamel. Enamel is a very resistant material, but over time, perhaps because the jewel is subjected to contact with other objects, it could be damaged. Precisely for this reason it is better to avoid rubbing the jewel with too rough materials, which can make the situation worse.

Gracie Abrams in Pandora
Gracie Abrams in Pandora

The jewels can also be washed gently in warm soapy water to remove any traces of grease left by the skin. When still wet, jewelry can be cleaned better with the use of a soft bristle toothbrush. But, attention: it is better to avoid the use of liquids used for silver polishing and ultrasonic cleaning. Handle clean jewelry with care: it is better to store them separately to avoid scratches.

Anello in argento e cubic zirconia
Ring in silver and cubic zirconia
Pandora, collezione Zodiaco
Pandora Rose necklace
Collana Pandora Rose
Necklace Pandora Rose
Bracciale Reflexions, in Pandora Shine
Reflexions bracelet, in Pandora Shine

Things to know about diamonds blacks

Do you like blacks diamonds? You know that not all blacks diamonds are alike? Here are six things to know about diamonds blacks.

If you think about a diamond, it is likely to have in mind a white, dazzling, gleaming transparent stone, perhaps mounted on a ring. But the jewelry companies have discovered, or rather rediscovered, the colored diamonds. And if those blue, pink or yellow are the kings of the auctions, with dizzying prices, to their collections the jewelers often use diamonds also another color: black. And in many cases these diamonds do not have crazy prices, indeed. So the question arises: are really cheap the blacks diamonds? Where they come from? They are the same as transparent? Here are six things to know about diamonds blacks.

Anello con diamanti neri
Black diamond ring

1 What is the origin of blacks diamonds?
Not all black diamonds have the same origin. There are diamonds that have turned black without being black at the origin and there are natural, fancy diamonds (called fantasy, because they have a different color from white). All of them, white, yellow, pink or black, are diamonds, but they have different stories. Most black diamonds, the ones that don’t cost too much, are originally diamonds of another color, considered not valuable, which have been heated to very high temperatures. Basically, they were cooked and turned black. On the contrary, natural black diamonds are very rare. The natural black color, in fact, is produced by the inclusion of graphite in the crystal structure during the formation of the gem, millions of years ago, before the deposits of kimberlite (where the stones are located) reached the earth’s surface. In a nutshell, the only difference between white or, more correctly colorless, diamonds and natural black ones is that the latter have the inclusion of graphite and the clear ones do not. The crystalline structure is instead the same. In their natural state, these stones are found in very few places, especially in Brazil and Central Africa.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con pavé di diamanti neri
Mini Chevron Pinky Ring in 18k White Gold with Pavé Black Diamonds by David Yurman

2 What is the right price of blacks diamonds?
Obviously natural blacks diamonds cost more than those heated. The ratio is at least ten times or more. If, for example, a black diamond heated costs 100 Euros or dollars, it will cost about 1,000 if it is natural, with the same carats. On eBay there are blacks diamonds (treated) from 1 carat to just over $ 100-200. A natural 1 carat black diamond oscillates about $ 2,500-3,000, but the price is variable according to the request.

Collana Entaglement con diamanti bianchi e neri, smeraldo a goccia disegnata per Garrard
Entaglement necklace with black and white diamonds, drop emerald designed for Garrard by Ilaria Lanzoni

3 How do I recognize a black diamond?
Natural black diamonds are generally opaque, but with metallic reflections, although there are different qualities. Natural black diamonds are also often difficult to polish and cut. Another weak point of natural black diamonds is the surface, which could be porous. In practice, it is very difficult for a jeweler to use natural black diamonds, although it cannot be ruled out.

Bracciale elastico in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti bianchi e neri
Elastic bracelet in 18-karat white gold, white and black diamonds by Roberto Demeglio

4 How do I know what kind of diamonds I’m buying ?
Artificially treated diamonds may not have an official certificate that guarantees their quality, such as the one issued by Gia, the American Gemological Institute. On the other hand, black diamonds are often used to compose pavé and a certificate may be superfluous: jewels of this type are valued more for their design than for the quality of black diamonds. A natural black diamond, on the other hand, is an official recognition, which you can ask your jeweler: given the price difference it is worth it.

Anello in oro bianco e nero, con diamanti bianchi e neri, al centro un diamante nero di 3,80 carati
Sutra, black and white gold ring, with black and white diamonds, in the center a black diamond of 3.80 carats

5 Why they are cool?
For some years the blacks diamonds are considered as special stones, a little unconventionals. In an episode of Sex and the City, Mr. Big gave Carrie Bradshaw a ring with a crown of diamonds blacks, because “because you are not anyone else.” Also blacks diamonds were worn by Katherine Heigl, Angelina Jolie, Cate Blanchett, Evan Rachel Wood, Jennifer Lawrence, Lauren Conrad and Sarah Jessica Parker.

Mr Big regala l'anello con diamante nero a Carrie Bradshaw in «Sex and the City»
Mr Big gives black diamond ring to Carrie Bradshaw in ‘Sex and the City’

6 I have a black diamond. Can I wash it, or it will fades?
You can clean a black diamond just like other diamonds. Also read How to clean diamonds.

Anello in oro rodiato nero e diamanti neri by Borgioni
Ring in black rhodium-plated gold and black diamonds by Borgioni

Tessa Packard, british style

Alongside traditional jewels, Tessa Packard surprises with precious but also fun creations

Tessa Packard is the creative director of the brand that she founded in 2013 and that in a short time has climbed the ranking of trendy jewelers. You often make slightly eccentric pieces, such as her Fried Egg earrings, made of white gold, diamonds, yellow agate and white topaz (price: 15,000 pounds). She describes her formula as “good design and narrative integrity”. She introduces a new collection every six months, but she has also specialized in the production of bespoke jewelry, both for individual clients and for other companies.

Rock Pool earring in oro bianco, ottone ossidato, rodio nero, smalto e citrino
18ct white gold verdigris brass, black rhodium, white enamel and citrine crab earrings

In short, creative imagination together with creativity in business. Tessa also rightly points out that she often participates as a speaker in numerous workshops dedicated to the role of women in the world of work. In any case, her production is liked: in 2015 the Maison was nominated for one of the 30 Hot Under 30 faces in the jewelry sector. And to say that Tessa is totally self-taught. She was born in Brazil but raised in Great Britain. She studied Fine Arts and Art History at university before launching herself into London’s commercial art world. But she moved from art galleries to jewelry.

She is keen to point out that all of her jewelery is handcrafted and finished in the UK. Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa transforms into original jewelry.

Bracciale in oro giallo e acquamarina del Mozambico
Bracelet in yellow gold and Mozambique aquamarine

Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside the traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high-quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa processes into original jewelry.

Anello Manhattan in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli
Manhattan ring in 18K gold, lapis lazuli
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati, argento brunito, perle e diamanti con nappa staccabile
Necklace in 18K yellow gold, burnished silver, pearls and diamonds with detachable tassel
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, quarzo rosa, onice, ossidiana e maialino in porcellana dipinta
Earrings in 18K white gold, rose quartz, onyx, obsidian and painted porcelain piglet
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, ottone, corallo, plastica, carta da parati vintage e pesci in resina
Earrings in 18K yellow gold, brass, coral, plastic, vintage wallpaper and resin fish
Orecchini in lucite
Lucite earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e tormalina anguria
Pendant earrings in 18K yellow gold, diamonds and watermelon tourmaline
Tessa Packard, orecchini Fried Eggs
Tessa Packard, Fried Eggs earrings

The simple success of Maman et Sophie

It’s called Maman et Sophie but, despite the French name, it is an Italian jewelery brand, Florentine to be precise. And it is also a phenomenon: in a few years it has become one of the most popular brands in Italy, thanks to the formula adopted. The jewels have very affordable prices (from 50 to 300 euros on average), the style is very simple and immediate, the wearability is guaranteed. The jewels are also sold online and having immediately focused on e-commerce was one of the keys to the success of the brand.

Anello Mon Coeur in oro rosa 18 carati e rubini
Mon Coeur ring in 18K rose gold and rubies

The idea of ​​Maman et Sophie is by the Florentine designer Elisabetta Carletti, who founded the jewelry company with the help of her husband and partner of the Maison, Federico Lastrucci, who passed away in 2019. The adventure of Maman and Sophie began in 2008, when Elisabetta Carletti decided to leave the profession of lawyer started in a large Florence firm. The birth of her first daughter, Sofia, left her time to reflect: she started designing jewelry, her passion, and making the first prototypes in silver rose gold plated. The name of the company, Maman et Sophie, is the photograph of that period. And the formula chosen, simple jewels, at a reduced price, with light and minimal style, was successful.

Bracciale Etoile in oro rosa, zaffiri, smeraldi, rubini
Etoile bracelet in pink gold, sapphires, emeralds, rubies
Bracciale in oro giallo, granato rosso
Yellow gold bracelet, red garnet
Girocollo in oro rosa 18 carati
Necklace in 18-karat rose gold
Orecchino in oro giallo 18 carati con topazio azzurro
18K yellow gold earring with blue topaz
Orecchino Angel in oro giallo 18 carati e topazio azzurro
Angel earring in 18K yellow gold and blue topaz

All about ruby

Rubies are one of the most loved gemstones for centuries and are the gem of the month of July. But few know its true characteristics. Here is a quick guide to know all about rubies

Bright, red, expensive: the rubies are one of the four minerals classified as gems, along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. Beware, though: they are very rare. They are often used other gems like ruby red but usually of lesser value. Have you ever wondered why it is called ruby? Simple: the name of the stone comes from the Latin word ruber, red. Want to know all about rubies?

Anello in oro bianco con rubino non scaldato taglio smeraldo di 6,54 carati
Ring in white gold with an unheated emerald cut ruby of 6.54 carats

What are. Dispelling a myth: not all rubies are just red. The color varies from red to deep pink. According to science, the rubies are a variety of corundum, a mineral composed of aluminum oxide. But from a chemical point of view the color red is induced by the presence in its interior of chromium. From a mineral point of view, the ruby is a relative of another precious stone: the sapphire, that is also a corundum. So much so that sometimes it is difficult to determine whether a gem is a ruby or sapphire. For example, a ruby with a color not too strong sometime is classified as a pink sapphire. The rubies are used in jewelry, but not limited to: the stones are very rare, almost like a diamond.

Rubino sangue di piccione, non scaldato
Pigeon blood ruby, unheated

Look inside. Within a ruby you can find an asterism: this is a point bright three-or six-point or star that is caused by inclusions of rutile. This type of rubies is cutted into cabochons to display the effect of light. The asterisms are visible properly with a single source of light: they give a sense of motion and are much appreciated.

I riflessi del rubino
The reflections of the ruby

The provenance is important. The rubies are found in many parts of the world, but those of Mogok Valley, Myanmar (Burma) are the most prized for their intense red color. Rubies are also found in Thailand, Cambodia, India, Afghanistan and Pakistan. In Sri Lanka are usually light pink (pink sapphires are often classified). Small deposits of rubies are also found in Tanzania, Madagascar, Vietnam, Nepal, Tajikistan, and even in the United States. Today, however, Africa is the main source of rubies. An estimated 80% of the rubies come from Mozambique, mainly from the Gemfields mine. But other companies are also active, such as Fura Gems, which began auctioning gems in the last year, along with a third competitor, Gem Rock, which will soon enter the ruby auction market. However, Africa, as a source, has traditionally been despised by industry, especially for rubies: the most valuable gems, in fact, are those from Burma. But with Burmese rubies in short supply, African rubies from Mozambique, Madagascar and Tanzania are on the rise. Therefore, it is better not to focus on the origin: it is better to judge the value of the stone itself, whatever the origin.

Anello La Reine in platino, rubino, diamanti
La Reine ring in platinum, ruby, diamonds

How are. Weight, color and quality of the stone determines its value. First of all the color is important: those with a very intense and brilliant red are the most wanted. Their color is described as “pigeon’s blood”. Rarely rubies can also change color or submit an effect “cat’s eye”. It is also important to their degrees of clarity: a ruby without inclusions are very rare, especially over a certain size. A 10-carat ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions (also called silk) may indicate that the stone has been treated, or is exceptional.

L'Anfiteatro, anello by Picchiotti con rubino di oltre 8 carati, diamanti, platino
L’Anfiteatro, ring by Picchiotti with ruby over 8 carats, diamonds, platinum

Treated or natural? Because the imperfections are common in virtually all rubies, they are used by gemologists to tell if a stone has been treated or is a synthetic ruby​​. The treatment, in most cases consists in heating the raw stone before it is cut. In fact, almost all rubies today are treated in some way, usually by using the thermal method. For this rare untreated rubies and good quality can reach very high prices.

Estrazione di un rubino in Groenlandia
Extraction of a ruby in Greenland
Anello con rubino sangue di piccione
Pigeon blood ruby ring
Zorab, diamanti bianchi e neri, rubini
Zorab, ring with black and white diamonds, rubies
Anello in platino e diamanti con rubino birmano antico di 4,34
Ring in platinum and diamonds with an antique Burmese ruby of 4.34 carats
Collana di perle naturali con rubini della Birmania e diamanti bianchi
Natural pearl necklace with Burmese rubies and white diamonds

In Milan in Montenapo with Alviero Martini 1st Class

The journey with Alviero Martini 1A Classe continues. The fashion and accessories brand, which became famous for its bags decorated with maps, has also launched jewelery lines inspired by famous places around the world. This time the place chosen is the same city that saw the birth of the brand. The jewelry line is called Montenapo, short for via Monte Napoleone, the luxury shopping street in the city. The jewels are made of 925 silver and the dominant motif of the jewels is the 1A Classe lettering, with single letters that become a decorative element with a decisive and rigorous style.

Alviero Martini 1a Classe, dettaglio della collana
Alviero Martini 1a Classe, detail of the necklace

All the jewels of the Montenapo collection, necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings, are available in the silver version or with yellow gold plating. The necklaces in the collection are 40 cm long and have a personalized closure. They are made up of a light chain and a central motif, with single letters forming the word 1 Classe, in the silver version (89 euros) and in the yellow gold-plated silver version (99 euros).

Bracciale rigido in argento placcato oro
Bangle in gold plated silver

The two bracelet models are also available both in the silver version (49 euros) and with yellow gold plating (59 euros). The bangle model, in 925 silver and with an adjustable size, is the masterpiece of the collection. The 1A Classe lettering is repeated three times and becomes real logomania (239 euros). The rings are adjustable in two sizes, in the silver version (39 euros) and in yellow gold-plated silver (49 euros). Finally, the earrings are offered in two versions (49 euros or 59 euros).

Anello Montenapo in argento
Montenapo ring in silver
Orecchini in argento
Silver earrings
Bracciale a catena in argento
Silver bracelet
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