The Flamingo brooch by Cartier which belonged to the Duchess of Windsor has made history as well the panther in all its versions. The segrinate turtles and wings embroidered birds by Buccellati are art objects. While the little animals cartoon-style by Van Cleef & Arpels, designed in 1954 for a young audience, soon became classics, so much that Grace of Monaco, Jacqueline Onassis and the ladies of the Parisian bourgeoisie collect them. Even gold fish with flexible tail and rubies eyes byJean Schlumberger, who has also designed the beautiful shells for Tiffany, is a masterpiece of jewelry. And what about Bulgari’s snake ? Since 1977 is one of the best-selling brand. And again, lions, frogs, bears, caterpillars, crabs and chameleons: the animal theme has always inspired the greatest jewelers (Vhernier, de Grisogono, Leo Pizzo, Chantecler always put them in their collections) and the conquest customers. For example, the guru fashion Diana Vreeland (she was the legendary Harper’s Bazaar’s chief editor) used to impose on her editors to insert a snake in the articles and she wore jewelery with this form. But one of her favorites was the zebra bracelet in gold, black and white enamel and diamonds, one of the masterpieces of David Webb, the quintessential American jewelry. And are so many designers to be passionate by this issue, even the most avant-garde designer. Here is a selection of those to keep an eye on.
