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New Year with a jewel in the hair

Published on December 30, 2020

Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco

Party with something precious in your hair: a tiara. Diadems and crowns are perfect jewels for a special evening ♦

A little courage and a sparkling touch: to feel like queens of the night on the occasion of a special evening (you decide which one) you just need a jewel in your hair. You don’t have to be a princess or wear a wedding dress to wear a tiara. By the way, it is better to specify: a tiara is a light ornamental crown. It is a jewel worn by women since ancient times. The women of ancient Greece and the matrons of ancient Rome wore a tiara. Today the tiara is worn in particular during very formal occasions but not only, as some believe, for the wedding ceremony. If you are curious, the word tiara is a word that has been preserved from Latin, and in turn derives from the ancient Greek τιάρα, a term that was imported from ancient Persian. A synonym for tiara is diadem.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's) — Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby’s)

The tiara is often associated with nobility, although it is an ornament that has now come into common use, even if limited to important occasions. It is widely used, for example, in American high society. The fact remains that originally tiaras and diadems were the prerogative of the nobles. It is no coincidence that the British royal family has an unknown number of them. The queen often wears tiaras at state ceremonies. Most of Queen Elizabeth’s tiaras are a legacy of Queen Alexandra of Denmark, wife of Edward VII, the eldest son of Queen Victoria.

La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara — La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

Queen Mary, wife of George V, son of Edward), for example received a famous kokoshnik style tiara (Russian folk hairstyle) as a wedding gift from Lord and Lady Iveagh in 1893. It consists of numerous interlocking diamond circles, with pearl drops stuck inside. It is now worn by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall and wife of Prince Charles.

La Kokoshnik tiara e una collana di diamanti e smeraldi indossati dalla regina Elisabetta

But tiaras aren’t always that valuable. There are some with faux pearls, there are tiaras with Swarovski crystals, small Greek-style crowns, but with leather leaves instead of gold. In short, this jewel is no longer placed only on crowned heads and there are also those who wear it to go out at night, like Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker and other celebrities. In short, why do without it?

Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier

Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature

Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara

How to buy jewelry at online auctions

Published on December 26, 2020

Campus

L'asta Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence organizzata da Christie’s a New York

Do you want to buy jewelry with an online auction? It can be a good deal, but first read the 9 rules for participating in an online jewelry auction ♦

Making good deals at jewelry auctions can be done. Of course, we usually publish records: diamonds that are sold at a price of millions of dollars or dollars, rings that belonged to actresses or royal families, awarded to collectors willing to pay dizzying figures. Few, however, know that at auctions of jewelry, even those of the big auction houses, you can buy (not always, but often), even high-quality jewelry at a price lower than the market estimates. Of course, to be able to conclude a lucky purchase you have to follow the auctions. Are auctions held in distant cities? Agreed, but for some time you can also buy following the auction live, through the internet. That’s how.

Un momento dell'asta di Christie's — Un momento dell’asta da Christie’s

1 Prepare first
The first rule is very simple: keep an agenda of the auctions proposed by the big specialized houses. Gioiellis.com, for example, anticipates the content of some, larger ones. But just browse the online pages of the major auction houses to know in advance the program and consult the catalog in advance, with the related estimates of price, usually with minimum and a maximum expected. Knowing in advance which pieces will be sold allows you to get an idea and choose in advance which jewel to bet on. Of course it would always be better to see the jewels up close, even if the catalogs often show a good description of the pieces on sale. But, beware: the description is usually flattering.

L'asta di GInevra di Sotheby's — Asta a Ginevra di Sotheby’s

2 Size matters
Take note carefully the size of the jewel that you would like to buy and try to compare it with a piece you have at home. Often the images seen on the screen of a computer, tablet or smartphone are deceiving.

Rahul Kadakia con una selezione di gioielli appartenuti a Elizabeth Taylor venduti in una speciale asta organizzata da Christie’s nel 2011, che ha messo a segno un record di 116 milioni di dollari

3 Register on time
The day of the auction has arrived. One moment: have you registered? In fact, before making an offer, you must explain to the auction house who you are. Better to register first, then. To create an account and participate in an online auction you will need to provide your details, along with a photo ID issued by the government of the country where you have the nationality and a proof of your address. If you are planning to buy very precious jewelry, you will probably also be asked for a financial reference and sometimes even a security deposit. The reason is obvious: for substantial purchases the auction house and the seller do not want to deal with unreliable buyers, who have no established money at the trial of the facts. For purchases of a few thousand euros / dollars, however, just a credit card.

Spilla di Cartier in diamanti e oro rosa. Base d'asta: 10.000 euro — Spilla di Cartier in diamanti e oro rosa. Partita da una base d’asta di 10.000 euro

4 How to buy
Once registered, you can participate in the auction. Each online auction includes how to submit your offer. It is usually also possible to set a maximum bid amount (the highest bid you consider). Just read the instructions on the auction house website: it’s very easy to participate and submit your bid.

Il diamante battuto all'asta a New York — Diamante battuto all’asta a New York

5 No jokes
Participating in an auction is not a sport or a game. Anyone who submits their bid establishes a binding contract with the auction house that cannot be canceled once entered. So before you click you have to be fully convinced. Count to three and then raise. But it is also true that if you wait too long you may miss the opportunity. How to understand how much time you have available for a raise? Simple, carefully follow the times dictated by the auctioneer: after a few pieces sold it will be easy to understand what is the time required to intervene with your offer.

sothebys diamond — Diamante rosa venduto all’asta da Sotheby’s

6 How to buy the jewel
It is not difficult to win a gem at an online auction. After the auctioneer has established that yours is the highest bid, the auction house will provide the necessary sales information. For example, the operation invoice. Confirmation, after your bank transfer (if you have not used a credit card), usually arrives at the time of collection, ie a couple of days later.

Gioielli all'asta da Sotheby's — Gioielli all’asta da Sotheby’s

7 Other charges
Who does not know the auction mechanism can be surprised: the hammer price is not the final cost. In addition to the price at the time of auction, there are other applicable charges, such as the buyer’s premium, local taxes, shipping charges, insurance costs for liability in case of loss. These fees also vary in relation to the auction house and the place of sale. The auction fees can reach about 15-25% of the price set by the auctioneer and beat at the time of sale.

The Hope Spinel ha stabilito un nuovo record mondiale a un'asta di Bonhams — The Hope Spinel ha stabilito un nuovo record mondiale a un’asta di Bonhams

8 How to get the jewel
You have beaten the competitors, you have won the jewel and you have paid the established price plus the additional charges. And now? Simple: it’s time to make arrangements for shipping. Obviously if you live in the same city or near the place where the auction was held you can personally access the saleroom and collect the jewel. Otherwise, the purchase must be sent. Auction houses usually have agreements with companies specializing in shipments of precious or, as in the case of Christie’s, offer their own service. And this reminds you of another aspect: before buying a jewel, check the shipping cost.

Locandina di una vendita di Faraone Casa d'Aste, a Milano — Locandina di una vendita di Faraone Casa d’Aste, a Milano

9 And if I do not like it then?
Those who live in the countries of the European Union have the right to return purchases, under specific conditions. The rules governing the return of purchased goods and, therefore, also the jewels, can be found here. But don’t be pessimistic: it is much more likely that buying a jewel at an online auction will give you great satisfaction!

Collier con ametiste e turchesi messo all'asta — Collier con ametiste e turchesi messo all’asta

Amber alarm: true or false?

Published on December 17, 2020

Campus

Do you have amber jewels? Or do you want to buy jewels made of amber beads? Be careful, because scams increase. Here’s how to recognize the true amber ♦

Alarm yellow or, better, amber alarm. Especially during the summer increases the chances of finding offers jewelry made from fossilized resin beads. The amber is often used for large necklaces or bracelets. They are lively jewelry, not too expensive and with an ancient history, since their origin dates back to millions of years ago. But are you sure that what they want to sell is authentic amber? And you do not suspect that the old necklace you have in the drawer is really authentic? Unfortunately, scams abound. Here, then, are some suggestions to see if the amber is true or false.

What is it. As mentioned, the amber is the resin of trees with millions of years. It has an intense yellow color, tending to orange or brown. It is used in jewelry for thousands of years, but it is also used as an element for perfumes and incense. Amber can be opaque or transparent, and sometimes contain seeds or fossil insects, trapped in time.

Colla d'ambra con turchesi. Vera o finta? — Colla d’ambra con turchesi. Vera o finta?

True or false. Unfortunately, it is not difficult to exchange the amber with the plastic or synthetic material, such as bakelite. Amber, however, floats in salt water, while the thick plastic easily goes to the bottom. But to do the test you must have an piece of amber not mounted with metal on a jewel. If the seller makes that possible, try to touch the amber gem with a hot needle. If you smell resin almost certainly it is amber. Obviously, a plastic or other synthetic material produces an unpleasant odor.
Tip: buy amber jewelry from a reputable store, certificate, may have some additional guarantee, even though the cost will be a little ‘higher.

The International Amber Association has also established a classification that can help buyers understand the difference between different types of amber.

Natural Baltic Amber. It is a gem that has been subjected solely to mechanical treatment, such as grinding, cutting or polishing, without changing its natural properties.

Modified Baltic Amber. In this case the amber was subjected only to heat treatment or high pressure. The heat or pressure has changed its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and color, or shaped in similar conditions outside a nugget, previously cut to the required size.

Rebuilt Baltic Amber (pressed). As the definition indicates, these are pieces of amber pressed at high temperature and under high pressure, without further components.

Glued Baltic Amber. It is the one with the lowest quality, formed by two or more pieces of amber of the other types, joined with a transparent glue. Obviously it should cost (and apply) less.

Watch out for the copal. Amber is fossilized resin. But before turning into amber it is found in an intermediate state, the copal: this is the commercial name that indicates a sub-fossil vegetable resin, or fossil, that dates back over 11,000 years ago. The copal is similar to amber, but much younger. It has an opaque and milky appearance, often with perfectly preserved insects, which were imprisoned thousands of years ago in the resin of the trees. But it is a much softer material than amber and is soluble in substances such as ether or gasoline. So be careful, because you can literally melt. A curiosity: the name derives from copalli, a Nahuatl language word (originating from the Aztec population) which means incense.

Blue amber. It is a rare variety that has only been found in the Dominican Republic. It is not always blue: the color depends, in fact, by the amount of fluorescence. Beware, though: much of blue amber is false. The amber is dyed or heat treated to change the color yellow. A clue may be inclusions: insects or other material inside may indicate that it’s a fake. Federico Graglia

Collana di ambra con una lavorazione rozza

Un frammento di ambra allo stato naturale

X Jewellery, simple and custom made

Published on November 24, 2020

/bracciale/Campus

The Danish Jewellery’s modular jewelery: bronze, silver but also special rubber ♦ ︎
You can wonder if William Shakespeare would write again Hamlet again, describing Denmark as a country of intrigues. Maybe not. Because Denmark, as well as being one of the countries with the highest rate of well-being, is also the homeland of the beautiful and the simple. In a word, Nordic design. But not only: it is also the country with the largest number of specialized modular jewelery companies. One of the latest arrivals, but also one of the most vibrant, is X Jewellery, arrived on the bijoux market from 2013. It offers affordable, silver, bronze and rubber jewelery and, in fact, has married the interchangeable concept: who buy an X Jewelery bracelet can create, modify, and rearrange the individual links (the elements that make up the jewelery) at will.

The company also points out that, unlike many of the modular bracelets that are on the market, the X Jewellery range is based on the classic chain. That is, you do not buy a bracelet already made and add pendants, but make up everything. In this way you can tailor the jewelry at any time or transform them from one day to the next. MdB

Bracciale in argento e link di gomma arcobaleno

bracciale bronzo Gomma X cioccolato — Bracciale in bronzo e link di gomma chocolate

How to choose diamond’s ring

Published on November 23, 2020

Campus

Anello con diamante di 13,70 carati di Bulgari

Round, square, heart-shaped … What is the shape of the diamond you like best? Here is a brief guide on how to choose the right diamond cut for rings.

How to choose the diamond for a ring? Small or large: it depends on the money available, all right. Well, of course, it is an important criterion, but it is not the main one: we have already talked about the characteristics of the stone, but now it is time to decide which cut is most suitable. Because, if the cut of a diamond is perfect, the stone reflects the maximum amount of light and therefore has a great impact on the final appearance of the ring, which should be adapted to the personality that receives it. Or the idea of who gives it away. So what is the best diamond shape? Here is a small guide to the main diamond cuts.

The quality of the diamond matters, but in some cases (especially for smaller stones) the difference between the different classes that serve to define the appearance of a diamond is imperceptible. For this, for example, there are also small and inexpensive diamond jewelry. Of course, for a 1-carat diamond the difference between color D and H can also be seen with the naked eye.
Requires certification: diamonds must be guaranteed by a gemmology institute that certifies the weight and characteristics of the stone.
The origin of the diamond is not a secondary aspect: there are more and more jewelry brands that guarantee that diamonds are extracted in an ethical and environmentally sustainable way.
Don’t expect to find uncommon cut diamonds in low-priced jewelry: in most cases the stones will be circular in shape.
A one-of-a-kind diamond jewelry is more expensive, but it can probably be worth more when sold.

Salvini, anello solitaire in oro bianco e giallo, con diamante

Brilliant (round cut)

Why: The brilliant cut is the most popular in engagement rings because it offers perfect sparkle. In addition, it has a regular shape, which fits well into that of a ring. Furthermore, the circular cut of a diamond never goes out of style. Indeed, it can be said that the brilliant cut of a diamond is considered almost natural for this type of stone. In short, you can never go wrong with a diamond.

For whom: This diamond shape will certainly be appreciated by those with a classic taste and love of tradition. But, in reality, no one will ever turn up their noses in front of a solitaire who mounts a bright brilliant. Furthermore, a round diamond is often surrounded by a crown of small stones that serve to increase the reflections of the central stone: a device that works very well with a gem of this type.

Princess cut

Why: The princess cut gives a superior shine to the round cut and is perfect for naturally elegant ladies, those who are immediately noticeable when they enter a room. In short, it is a very refined cut (not surprisingly it is called princess), but also quite rare. Also because not all rough diamonds are suitable for cutting in this way.

For whom: the woman who wants an unmistakable jewel will like it, perhaps combined with a wedding in grand style, like in fairy tales. But it is also a usually quite expensive cut.

Cushion cut

Why: the cushion cut resembles the boxy shape of the princess, but is softer. It has the shape of a pillow, in fact, and is much appreciated by the British for its slightly vintage taste. In short, it is a traditional cut, which fits well with rings with a classic design.

For whom: the person who wears a cushion-cut ring does not seek attention at all costs, but on the contrary loves a sober, not exhibited, but solid richness. A cocktail, a concert hall, an anniversary party for the wedding will be ideal occasions to wear a cushion cut diamond ring.

Emerald cut

Why: originally the emerald cut used only for colored stones, especially for emeralds of course. This rectangular cut was later adapted to diamonds as well, and with some success. The rectangular shape, with a wide top and four edges, however, is suitable for stones of a certain volume (and with a high cost). An aspect that needs to be carefully evaluated.

For whom: the emerald cut stands out immediately. It’s for a strong, spirited woman who likes to show off her wealth (or that of her partner).

Diamante blu da 12,11 carati, taglio marquise, montato su anello

Navette or marquise cut

Why: the marquise (or navette) cut has the same number of facets as the brilliant cut, but it is less common, because it is more difficult to make. In fact, the central area is much brighter than that towards the tips, but if done correctly, the refraction of light, albeit asymmetrical, is of great value. It is said that it was invented at the behest of the Sun King who wished to have a stone in the shape of the mouth of the Marquise de Pompadour (for this reason it is called marquise). Certainly a stone with this cut has been set in the jewels of many royal and aristocratic collections. Also because it has the advantage of being able to be combined with other gems.

For whom: intended for those who want to stand out from the crowd and seek the highest quality. A marquise-cut diamond ring will always look great. It can be the ideal shape for women looking for a distinctive, rare, excellent piece of jewelry. It is expensive.

Diamante ovale impeccabile D Color da 102,39 carati

Oval cut

Why: the oval cut is liked because it breaks the monotony of the round cut, but without exaggerating. It is a modification of the traditional brilliant, but has one less facet. The advantage is that, compared to the brilliant, it makes a stone of the same carat weight appear brighter. On a solitaire ring it reflects light on multiple fingers and is suitable for small to medium hands. It’s not easy to find in small sizes, though.

For whom: It is a type of cut that is suitable for all women. Not too different from the brilliant classic, it is also suitable for those who love tradition and custom. At the same time, it also pleases those who want a little novelty.

Pear cut

Why: The pear cut is one of the classic shapes for diamonds. It was once a cut used only for large stones, but today it is also accepted for medium carats in the case of the main stone of a ring. Often the pear cut is also used to compose jewels with different stones. To make the most of the diamond must maintain perfect symmetry between the apex and the bottom and the sides towards the tip (as small and sharp as possible) must have the same curvature.

For whom: It is a rather aggressive cut if intended for a single stone. A pear-shaped diamond stands out immediately: it is often worn with the tip facing outwards and this gives it an additional aggressive look, almost like a weapon. Resolute and determined women like it.

Heart cut

Why: The heart cut is not easy to find on the market, although there are brands that specialize in jewelry with this type of cut. The heart is a kind of romantic version of an oval diamond. Its particular shape is a perfect love dedication. But an equally proportioned and symmetrical stone can be difficult to find.

For whom: The heart, a typical fantasy cut, will be appreciated by a dreamer, romantic, sweet, sensitive woman. There are still some, thankfully.

Marquise-cut diamond, what you need to know

Published on November 19, 2020

Campus

Diamonds with the marquise cut, or navette. All you need to know.

Is it possible to fall in love with a gem that resembles lips? Yes, if it is a marquise cut diamond. A diamond of this type has an elongated shape, like an oval with the two ends ending in a point. But before examining the characteristics of a marquise cut diamond, it is good to know why this shape is called with this name.

Anello con diamante blu di 12,11 carati, taglio marquise

History. Marquise is a word which in French means marquise. Legend has it that King Louis XV of France (1710-1774), known as the Beloved, invented this elongated shape. According to this story, the king commissioned a jeweler to make a diamond with a cut inspired by the lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, i.e. the Marquise Madame de Pompadour. Et voila, here is the origin. Over time, those who at the court of France could boast the title of marquis loved to show off an elongated cut gem. And who wasn’t noble? Well, he called this type of cut with the name of navette, a French word that means small ship. In fact, it’s a definition that fits perfectly.

Luigi XV ritratto da Louis-Michel van Loo

Features. The marquise cut usually uses a 2 to 1 ratio of length to width. But, of course, there can be small variations. This cut uses 58 facets, which run across the elliptical surface with the two pointed ends. In addition to the classic four Cs (color, cut, clarity, carat) symmetry is very important for a marquise-cut diamond: an error in the cut becomes particularly evident: for example, the two tips at the ends must align perfectly.

Diamante taglio marquise di 16,69 carati montato su anello

The merits. This type of diamond has the advantage of being very bright and, for the same weight, of being visually larger than a brilliant cut diamond. In short, it pays more. In addition, a navette diamond mounted on a ring helps to streamline the appearance of the wearer’s fingers.

The defects. The best marquise diamonds must have a particularly good color, that is, they must not be classified beyond H or G. Their shape, in fact, can tend to show a more colorful shade at both ends. But there are also those who appreciate this aspect and choose diamonds with more colors. Some experts warn of the possible lack of reflections in the center of the gem, but this only happens in some cases. Another aspect to pay attention to is the greater danger of damaging the stone by hitting it, especially in the two points, which are the areas most at risk.

The jewels. In some cases a marquise cut ring is used as a solitaire. A marquise-cut diamond engagement ring is a very refined choice. Much more often, however, this diamond shape is used for jewelry made up of many diamonds. In other cases, navette-cut diamonds accompany a ring with a central brilliant or cushion-cut or emerald-cut diamond on the sides. By the way, not only diamonds can have the marquise cut, but also other gems such as rubies and sapphires.

Bracciale con diamanti taglio marquise, pera e brillante — Arzano, bracciale con diamanti taglio marquise, pera e brillante

Pendente in oro bianco, diamanti e rubino taglio marquise

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldo taglio marquise

Ciondolo Koala con pavé di diamanti e diamante marquise

The 9 colors of gold

Published on November 14, 2020

Campus

Anelli con oro in tonalità bianco e apricot con tormaline di Annamaria Cammilli

Do you know why gold can have different colors? It can be white, yellow, pink, but also blue or purple. Learn about the colors of gold, even those that cause allergies ♦

It’s easy to say gold. The metal most used in luxury jewelry, considered the most precious asset for centuries, kept in ingots in bank vaults, actually has many faces. Because since it was used to make rings and necklaces, bracelets and earrings, gold has undergone several transformations. First of all, it can be more or less pure.

When a piece of jewelry is 100% gold it has 24 karats, while if it is 75% it is 18 karat. The remaining 25% is made up of other metals.

Trasformista, bracciale convertibile in oro 18kt e diamanti. Inciso manualmente utilizzando un bulino — Nanis 18kt gold and diamond convertible bracelet. Hand engraved using a burin

A percentage of 58% indicates a 14-karat alloy and, finally, when only 38% of gold remains, you have 9 karats. Furthermore, when it is alloyed with other metals, gold can change color, depending on the type of metal that is added. Everyone knows the three main shades: yellow, white and pink gold, colors that can be more or less intense. In reality, many jewelers use different percentages, which also give the gold completely different shades. In the diagram on this page we have summarized the main combinations that arise from the union of gold with other metals, in particular silver and copper.

In nature, in fact, gold has an intense yellow color, tending to orange, and is a very soft metal, which is easily deformed (1 gram can be transformed into a sheet of 1 square meter).

Anelli in oro giallo, rosa e brunito — Rings in yellow, pink and burnished gold

1 Yellow gold
The more intense yellow, the purer it is, as found in nature. The 99% pure gold is 24 carat and is exclusively deep yellow. Yellow gold is also the most used in jewelry. There are countries, such as India, which prefer gold in this color which is its natural hue. Yellow gold can also be of a less intense color, especially when alloyed with silver. Obviously the yellow gold with fewer carats, that is in alloy with other metals, has a more easily less intense color.

Collana in oro giallo di Amrapali — Yellow gold necklace from Amrapali

2 White Gold
It is an alloy with a white metal. When it comes to old jewels, it is often nickel (which however can cause allergies, on average to one in eight people), or manganese, palladium, but also silver. The alloy of gold and nickel is highly valued in jewelry because it makes the metal more durable for rings and brooches. On the other hand, gold with palladium is softer and makes setting stones easier. White gold is often not perfectly white, but has shades of yellow, brown or pink.

Anello Tourbillon in oro bianco e diamanti — Vhernier, Tourbillon ring in white gold and diamonds

3 and 4 Pink gold and red
It is an alloy that uses copper. It was very popular in Russia in the nineteenth century and has come back into vogue in recent years. The color difference between red and pink shades depends on the copper content. For example, a 18-carat gold red uses 75% gold and 25% copper. A 18K rose gold 75% gold, 20% copper and 5% silver. Some even add up to 15% zinc to give a dark yellow hue.

Tiffany, collezione T, bracciale in oro rosa — Tiffany T collection, rose gold bracelet

5 Green gold

Green gold was already known in ancient times: this shade is obtained by adding silver. The color of the metal with this alloy is greenish-yellow, sometimes also obtained with cadmium, a metal which, however, can cause allergies. The light green hue is obtained with an alloy of 75% gold, 23% copper, 2% cadmium. The more intense green color has instead 75% gold, 15% silver, 6% copper and 4% cadmium.

Anello in oro verde con cristallo di di berillio e diamanti verdi — Green gold ring with beryllium crystal and green diamonds

6 Gray Gold
The gray color is especially used for jewelry with a modern design. This color is obtained with a mix of yellow gold and palladium or silver, manganese and copper. If the other metals are added in minimal quantities, the color is closest to that of white gold.

Anello in oro grigio e diamante di Niessing — Gray gold and diamond ring by Niessing

7 Purple Gold
Violet or purple gold is obtained from an alloy that includes a particular type of aluminum. But purple gold is more fragile than other gold alloys and for this reason it is not often used: a sharp blow could cause the metal and, therefore, the jewel to shatter. Often purple gold is used only for small details of the jewels, together with gold (more robust) with other colors.

Jens Hansen, Replica ring, in oro rosa violetto — Jens Hansen, Replica ring, in violet pink gold

8 Blue gold
It is used rather rarely, but it is undoubtedly surprising. The gold of this color is obtained with an alloy with two metals little used in jewelry: alongside the yellow metal (46%), in fact, gallium or indium are added. in case, before buying it make sure you do not have allergies to these metals.

Anello in oro blu 14 carati con zircone — 14K blue gold ring with zircon

9 Black gold
It can be produced with various methods: by electroplating, with a rhodium or ruthenium patina. Or with a coating that uses sulfur and oxygen or with a forced oxidation by chromium or cobalt. More recently, black gold has been created by creating nanostructures on the surface and laser treatment. It is a high-impact color, often used by jewelers over the past decade.

Dionea Orcini, anello con oro nero, diamanti neri, zaffiri rosa — Dionea Orcini, ring with black gold, black diamonds, pink sapphires

In this graphic scheme taken from Wikipedia you can see the mix of metals that add a hue of color to gold. They range from the very deep pink, which has more copper (boulder corner on the right) to the white one, usually obtained by adding silver. The top tip of the triangle instead tends to yellow.

La composizione dei colori più comuni dell'oro — The composition of the most common colors of gold

Does sanitizer gel wear out jewelry?

Published on June 26, 2020

Campus

Is sanitizer gel dangerous for jewelry health? Okay, gels and other hand hygiene products are needed to kill germs and viruses. But, while they are effective for the health of the person, can they harm the health of jewelry? More than a jeweler and many women have asked themselves these questions. So let’s talk about the effect of hand sanitizer gel on rings, necklaces or bracelets.

The problem is frequency
As a rule, a disinfectant gel should not have a negative effect on jewelry, if we consider a ring in gold or silver, and not even on jewelry with very hard stones, such as diamonds. But, attention, there is another aspect to consider: the frequency in the use of the gel or liquids necessary to eliminate viruses. Continuous use of these products involves frequent friction, for example if you frequenting public places that require the use of disinfectants. In this case, the prolonged use of gels and the like can affect the brilliance of the jewel, for example a ring, because it ends up ruining the rhodium-plated patina that is usually found on the surface to make the metal more shiny. If this happens, it is necessary to bring the ring back to the jewelry to rhodium it again.

Hazardous materials
The greatest danger concerns porous stones or pearls. There are gems, such as emerald or opal, which can easily lose their brightness if they come into prolonged contact with liquids, due to the alcohol contained in these substances. Even jewels with a galvanic treatment, that is, covered with a very thin film usually of gold, are among the objects at risk if continuously subjected to friction.

Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity con perle

The risk of compromising a jewel, or only of making it less shiny, does not concern, however, those who use disinfectant gels only occasionally. The women who risk most are obviously those who make frequent use of the sanitizing products, perhaps because they work in public environments, where gel use is frequent.

Sutra, collana e orecchini con opali rosa e diamanti

Cleaning the jewels is ok
There is, however, another aspect to consider: it is true that a continuous use of the gel disinfectant can ruin jewelry in the long run. But washing your hands carefully and frequently cleaning your jewelry is a good practice: viruses can easily hide in a jewel in contact with the skin. Better to eliminate the danger, in the right way.

How to choose a diamond

Published on April 25, 2020

Campus

How to choose the diamond for a jewel? Here are 9 useful tips to avoid bad surprises.

As a gift, for your own pleasure or as an investment: buying a jewel with one or more diamonds is often considered a safe choice. But you have to be careful: in addition to identifying the type of jewel you want to get, in most cases it is a ring, you need to avoid the most common mistakes. So here are 9 tips to avoid mistakes when choosing a diamond jewel.

Analisi di un diamante — Examination of a diamond

1 Choose a retailer with a good reputation
It is much more difficult for a well-known jeweler to be tempted to offer a diamond that is of poor quality or does not match the description of the one being offered for sale. A jeweler’s reputation is very similar to that of a bank: no one would open an account if they suspected they were carrying out a risky operation. The good reputation of a jeweler is certainly not an absolute guarantee, but it is a good start.

Valutazione di un diamante di Rubin & Zonen — Appraisal of a diamond by Rubin & Zonen

2 Check the 4C
Clarity, cut, color and weight (carat) are the first attributes that determine the value of a diamond (see also here). Before buying a diamond, learn these fundamental notions that determine the value of the stone. And keep in mind that diamonds classified in color D are the best, but they also cost much more than those in category G. Yet few, when you wear a ring, will be able to recognize the difference.

I colori dei diamanti — The colors of diamonds

3 Ask a certification
Naturally, all the characteristics of the diamond must be certified by an impartial body. For diamonds, a certification known and considered reliable internationally is that of the Gia, the American gemological institute. But there are also others, such as those of the High Council of Diamonds (Hrd, Hoge Raad voor Diamant), or the certificate of the International Gemological Institute (Igi), etc. In summary: do not buy a diamond without a certificate. However, keep in mind that very small and light diamonds are often not sold with a certificate. Another problem that should not be underestimated is the risk that the certificate is fake. This also happens, but fortunately it is not frequent. However, many diamonds, even small ones, are marked with an invisible (to the naked eye) laser code: an aspect that you can verify.

Un esempio di certificato, quello dell'IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano — An example of a certificate, that of IGI, the Italian Gemological Institute

4 The cut
It is a mistake to think that color and purity are the main things. Another important characteristic, capable of influencing the cost of a stone, is the type of cut. It is perhaps the most difficult aspect to evaluate if you are not an expert. But, for example, a diamond with a cut that is too deep will make a smaller principal surface area of the stone relative to the weight. The result is that it will shine less. A well cut diamond will also be easier to resell in the future and will produce more intense reflected light. Furthermore, the type of cut also influences the perception of the color of the diamond.

Diamante taglio cuscino di Great Diam — Cushion cut diamond by Great Diam

5 Alone or with others?
Is it better to buy a diamond mounted on a jewel, or a single stone to keep in the bank? Maybe the right thing is neither one nor the other. There is a third solution: buy a single diamond, already cut, in order to observe its proportions well, and then have it mounted on a jewel. In this way there is the guarantee that even the non-visible part of the jewel is cut well, and in addition you can wear the jewel.

Anello di Boucheron in platino, con diamante di 11 carati — Ring by Boucheron in platinum, with an 11-carat diamond

6 Colourless or fancy?
For years the prices of colored diamonds have been on the rise. But choosing a colored diamond is more difficult, although a certification that specifies the type and grade of color helps. In general, the more vibrant the color, the higher the price. But be prepared to write a check with lots of zeros. On the other hand, the purchase of a jewel with a brightly colored diamond (yellow is the most common) could be a good deal in perspective, given that the value of these stones is in great demand.

Anello Sunlight Journey, in oro rosa 18K con 1 diamante giallo taglio coussin (FVY-VS2 - circa 4,02 carati), spinelli rosa, diamanti gialli e diamanti — Sunlight Journey ring, in 18K rose gold with 1 cushion-cut yellow diamond (FVY-VS2 – approx. 4.02 carats), pink spinels, yellow diamonds by Piaget

7 Better a neutral light
A piece of advice: when you go to the jewelry store they will show you the jewels illuminated by small spotlights that focus the light on the jewels. They are made to enhance the reflections of diamonds, which shine more. However, ask to observe the diamond with a neutral light, as happens in normal life situations. You will get the idea of how shiny the stone you want to buy can be. By moving the jewel slightly in the light, you can verify the reflective capacity of the stone: a good indication to evaluate its purity and correct cut.

Gioielleria a Milano — Jewelry shop in Milan

8 A different idea
Even if the diamond that is offered to you looks fantastic, spend a handful of minutes in two or three other jewelers: comparing jewels and prices is always the right thing to do. Of course you have to take into account the quality of the diamond and its weight. By the way, here’s another tip: choose diamonds that have an “odd” weight. For example, a 0.49 carat diamond will cost much less than a 0.51 carat diamond, even if it is practically indistinguishable to the eye. The price varies greatly if it exceeds 1 carat.

Anello con diamante taglio rotondo di circa 13,70 carati firmato Bulgari — Ring with a round cut diamond of approximately 13.70 carats by Bulgari

9 Ask for a guarantee
Many jewelers offer a guarantee on the stone you are buying. Do not be ashamed to ask for it: grant it is also a great advertisement for the same jewelers.

Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre — Garavelli, the choice of stones

What ring do women want?

Published on March 24, 2020

Rings/Campus

How much do you have to spend on the engagement ring? What do women expect? Which kind of ring to choose? A research reveals that… ♦

How much should you spend on an engagement ring, which in most cases is the classic solitaire, that is, a gold ring with a small diamond? There is only one answer: it obviously depends on the financial availability, the tastes of him and her, the expectations, the family tradition … But some indications can be useful.

For example, it is possible to know what women expect when they think their partner is about to make a big step, that is, the request for marriage, combined with the ring. A research published time ago in Great Britain by the professional magazine Professional Jeweler can serve to understand what female expectations are. Of course, there may be small variations from one country to another, but in general the results should be confirmed everywhere.

Anello di Meghan — L’anello di Meghan Markle

The price. In the common opinion, the cost of an engagement ring is the equivalent of one month of an average salary. The amount varies, therefore, from one country and from one city to another, but the economic commitment that the fiancé and future husband has to face is more or less the same: demanding, but not such as to end in bankruptcy. Of course, you have to save money on time. In Britain, for example, the average monthly wage was calculated at £ 1,990. In Italy, on the other hand, the average income for an employee is (2017 data) of 1,590 euros per month. In Germany, on the other hand, it exceeds € 3,000. So this is the average expense for an engagement ring. We. The reality is different: the data indicate that, in fact, the equivalent of 50-60% of a monthly salary is spent on an engagement ring.

Picchiotti, wedding band, anello della collezione Xpandable in oro bianco e diamanti

What do women want? The aforementioned survey was conducted in Britain on a sample of 2000 future brides. Will the needs be the same in all countries? Maybe. They are probably not exactly the same, but similar, yes. Therefore, research indicates that women expect a ring spending of 20-25% lower than that of a month’s wages. To summarize: women expect a higher value than what they actually receive if one takes into account the average spending made in jewelry.

Damiani, Minou, anello solitario in oro bianco. Prezzo: a partire da 1490 euro

The choice of the model. Another interesting piece of research concerns the shape of the ring. In fact, there is no single opinion. Certainly, however, 77% of women would prefer to be the one to choose the shape of the engagement ring. To guess the right shape, in short, it is better to probe tastes and expectations first. It is not easy, but it is necessary, also to avoid bitter disappointments: 75% of men are saddened or annoyed if women propose to change the model of engagement ring received. In short, it seems that there is no other solution than to inquire first. Another aspect: 69% of women prefer the overall quality of the ring to the simple size of the diamond. In this case, in short, size does not matter. Lavinia Andorno

Anello in oro bianco e diamante — Tamara Comolli, anello in oro bianco e diamante

Giorgio Visconti, anello in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco con un diamante taglio smeraldo di 5,29 carati

The true story of the Pope’s ring

Published on February 29, 2020

Campus

Popes wear a ring. It is the piscatorio ring. That of Pope Francis has a particular history.

Here is the true story of Pope Francis’ piscatorio ring. As is known the ring is not in gold, but in gilded silver. It represents Peter with the keys and was made by the Romagna artist Enrico Manfrini two years before the death of Pope Paul VI, to whom he was destined. The pontiff would have liked it to be put on his finger to “present himself to the Divine Redeemer with this episcopal sign”. But things went differently and his secretary, Monsignor Pasquale Macchi together with Don Ettore Malnati of the Diocese of Trieste, kept it together with many other objects and jewels of the Pope and the Council. The jewel was a model, made of wax, a perishable material, which is why fifteen years ago Msgr. Macchi and Don Malnati decided to melt it in gilded silver. The wax ring was liquefied but the work was saved.

In the days of the Conclave, Don Malnati remembered that ring, spoke about it with the bishop of Trieste, Giampaolo Crepaldi, of whom he is a close collaborator, and got the suggestion to propose it for the new pope. The intermediary of the passage was Cardinal Giovanni Battista Re. It is to him in Rome that, with a trip almost seven hundred kilometers, the jewel is delivered. The cardinal in turn handed it over to the papal master of ceremonies who, together with two other rings, showed them to Pope Francis, who he chose. “I am very happy,” said Don Malnati, “that Pope Francis has this ring. I have not met the Pope but I like his style, it is congenial to a pastor, in the idea of meeting people ».

Il papa riceve l'anello al momento del suo insediamento — Il papa riceve l’anello al momento del suo insediamento

Manfrini, who lived in Milan, was part of a group of artists close to Pope Montini and who was involved, among other things, in recovering children with problems through the teaching of art. Manfrini, in particular, worked a lot in the sacred art sector and together with Rudelli, Lorenzetti and Scorzelli he created the Chapel of the Papal Apartment. Previously to Manfrini, Don Malnati recalled, “to make this type of jewelry was a company that went bankrupt, the Senesi”.

Papa Francesco con indosso l'anello — Papa Francesco con indosso l’anello

3 tips to choose the ring of marriage

Published on February 22, 2020

Campus/Rings

How to choose the wedding ring? Before you choose a ring you have to think of it: here are three tips to make the right decision.
It may seem strange, but many couples are choosing wedding rings at the last minute. Others are convinced that the rings exchanged at the altar or in the secular ceremony are all the same: simple yellow metal bands. The most savvy people know that is not so, but in many underestimate the ring buying process. And it is a mistake: the wedding ring is something that is worn throughout life (it is assumed) and it is a choice that goes well weighted. If you have doubts you can also read this brief guide on how to choose the ring.

Anello di fidanzamento indossato assieme alla fede matrimoniale

In short, it pays to choose wedding rings with more attention and pass less time to decide which plants to use during the ceremony, a thing that no one will make the case (except for your bank account). Here, then, three useful tips for choosing wedding ring.

1 Use Internet and make comparisons

Gioiellis.com can be very helpful to choose which ring you can put on your finger and keep an eye on what are the latest trends in jewelry. But the ring must enjoy above all to you, bearing in mind that it will live long on your hands. You want it in white, yellow or pink gold? Today there is freedom of choice, and no one will have to say. There are also rings that use two or three different colors of gold. And then there is platinum. The shape is no longer just that of classical smooth band of metal, but you can also choose rings with different shape. Do not rush, and think through what form and color you like to wear every day.

Demetra, anello Eternity in oro bianco e diamanti. Prezzo: da 499 a 2330 euro

2 Decide the budget

After choosing what kind of ring you like, color, size and shape, think about how much you want to spend. Keep in mind that a platinum ring can cost more than twice of a jewel with the same shape, but in gold. Not only. To determine the price are also the carat, ie how many is pure gold (18-karat means that 75% of the metal is composed of gold, the remainder of other materials such as silver or nickel). Less carats are declared (for example, 14 or 9 carats) and less expensive it will be the ring. But also it spoils more easily. Even the brand’s choice affect much on the cost of a ring: companies with well-known brands, on the other hand, usually offer more guarantees on what you buy.

Giorgio Visconti, anello con diamante montato a giorno

3 Think also after

A ring is forever, hopefully. But, unfortunately, even your jewelry get old. Over time you can scratch, or your hands can become bigger or thinner. When you choose a ring, it’s better also choose a jeweler that in addition to the metal hoop also sells services such as cleaning, repair or resizing the ring. If the ring also has the stones, the jeweler may undertake to ensure the replacement in case of loss. Finally, don’t neglect the security. If your ring is quite expensive, think about the opportunity to insure it against theft or loss. But first make sure of his true value with an additional expert opinion of an expert.

Anello in oro giallo e diamanti taglio brillante a scalare — Crieri, anello in oro giallo e diamanti taglio brillante a scalare

4 Think about the later too

A ring is forever, hopefully. But, unfortunately, your jewel also ages. Over time it can be scratched, or with your hands they can become larger or thinner. When you choose a ring, therefore, you also identify the jeweler who in addition to the metal circle also sells services such as cleaning, repairing or resizing the ring. If the ring also has stones, the jeweler can undertake to guarantee replacement in case of loss. Finally, don’t overlook security. If your ring is rather expensive, it is possible to insure it against theft or loss. But first make sure of its true value with additional expert expertise.

Anello aperto in oro giallo con diamanti — Antonio Papini, anello aperto in oro giallo con diamanti

5 With stone or without
A simple golden faith can make many women happy. Of course, if he also has a diamond or a precious stone it doesn’t hurt. If your budget permits, do not limit your choice to the bare minimum, that is to the classic record. Today many wedding rings offer interesting elaborations capable of enriching the value of the jewel.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Milano di Pomellato

Anello inoro rosa della collezione Milano di Pomellato

Il classico Trinity di Cartier, con tre diversi colori di oro

Real and false stones, how to recognize them

Published on February 1, 2020

Campus

Acquamarina e tormalina rosa di 20 carati by Nomad

How to recognize a real stone from a fake? Some tricks are often used for jewels and can deceive those who are not experts. Here’s what to check ♦ ︎

Beware of false stones. But also to those who are half-faked. Perhaps you do not know that the ways to simulate precious stones on jewels are many. Here are some aspects you need to consider.

False stones. Plastic and glass are materials often used to simulate precious stones. Technology today allows you to create something in the laboratory that is not distinguishable from stones such as rubies or fossil resins such as amber. Naturally, an expert jeweler or a specialized laboratory can identify whether they are authentic stones or imitations. If you have doubts, ask for an expert advice.

Orecchini oro e ambra — Orecchini in oro e ambra

Artificial stones. Cubic zirconia and synthetic moissanite (there is also the natural one, rather rare) are two of the stones created in the laboratory and which have characteristics similar to authentic gems, such as diamonds. Similar, but not the same. Of course, if you want to sell them, they have a very low value, but at the time of purchase, only a gemologist can distinguish a cubic zirconia, often passed through a zircon, which is instead a natural stone. How to be sure not to be cheated? Simple: a diamond, even a small one, always has a certificate attesting to its characteristics such as transparency, color, clarity and, of course, the carats. Cubic zirconia, no.

Composite stones. One of the trends among jewelers is the proposal to superimpose different stones or materials. It is a way to reduce costs: it consists of a kind of sandwich of different stones: which is more valuable is above, the one that serves to create thickness is below. The goal is to make the stones used on the surface appear larger, adding an imitation or a cheap gem, perhaps in the lower part of the stone, hidden by the setting. This system is less common for transparent stones, while it is more easily used in opaque ones, such as opals or turquoise. Sometimes the authentic stone is just a small layer that is glued onto a less valuable mineral. Another system, on the other hand, concerns transparent stones. To obtain an interesting shade, one expedient is to glue two or three different stones with a special invisible adhesive, so as to make them look like one and transform them into a “precious” stone with a fascinating nuance. The best brands do not hide this choice. But how to avoid cheating? In addition to relying on a brand that enjoys your trust, it is good to carefully observe, perhaps with a lens, the processing of the jewel.

Il diamante composito naturale-artificiale

Fantasy stones. Another idea of those who do not want to be transparent with those who buy jewelry is to change the name of the stones. If you read that a ring has an “oriental emerald”, for example, know that it is a green sapphire, which is less valuable. Other examples: an “American ruby” is actually a garnet, which is worth much, much less. And the “Australian jade”? It is simple treated quartz. Conclusion: when you read slightly exotic names of stones, which you have never heard, check on Google. Or on Gioiellis.com, of course.

Andreoli, anello con opale rosa — Andreoli, anello con opale (vero) rosa

Reconstituted stones. There are stones that are stabilized or rebuilt, as often happens in turquoise. Stabilization consists in subjecting the stone to a pressure to make it more compact and eliminate the chalky consistency. Furthermore, often turquoise or other soft stones are reconstituted by mixing powder with a binder. In short, they are a kind of pasta, to which dye is often added, to make the color more vivid.

Anello con la cosiddetta giada australiana

How to defend yourself. It is not easy to recognize these tricks. A very low price is already an indication that something is wrong: no one will give you for less money a precious stone and the probability that a jeweler offers substantial discounts on an emerald, diamond or ruby is as rare as water in the desert. The certificates, for very expensive stones, are a good start to avoid the purchase of fakes. The opinion of a jeweler who can guarantee the authenticity of a jewel is another element to keep in mind. Finally, greater security can it guaranteed by a expert gemologist. Giulia Netrese

Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire's — Anello con turchese: solo 6,99 euro da Claire’s

Diamante rosa sotto la lente del gemmologo

Five tips for choosing the right jewel for Valentine’s Day

Published on January 6, 2020

Campus

White and yellow gold earrings. White gold fancy yellow diamond (19.92 ct) and diamond (4.48 ct) earrings set in white and yellow gold

It is already time to think about the gift for Valentine’s Day. Here are five tips for choosing the right jewel for Valentine’s Day.

Elemento a forma di cuore — Pandora, elemento a forma di cuore in argento

The traditional feast of lovers is celebrated every February 14, but if you want to give a jewel for Valentine’s Day it is better to think about it in time. Of course Valentine’s Day can also be celebrated in other ways: but which gift is better than a jewel? Before choosing it, however, know that the tradition of Valentine’s Day has an ancient origin.

Ciondolo a cuore in argento. Prezzo: 190 euro — Tiffany, ciondolo a cuore in argento. Prezzo: 190 euro

The feast takes its name from a saint for the Catholic Church: Valentino, in fact. According to legend, Valentino was one of the first priests in Rome during the third century. At that time, Emperor Claudius II had established that single men fought better than married men, less courageous because they also thought about the family. Nothing strange, in fact. For this, however, the emperor had forbidden young people to marry. But Valentino, defying the ban, continued to secretly celebrate weddings and for this Claudio ordered that he be put to death. According to other sources, however, the real martyr was another Valentino, bishop of Terni, also him beheaded by Claudio. And according to others, the real Valentino was a prisoner who wrote love letters to his girlfriend.

Orecchini con pietra rosa — Morellato, orecchini con pietra rosa

Whatever the origin of the legend, the date of February 14 comes from the idea of Christianizing the pagan celebration of Lupercalia, a fertility festival dedicated to Faun, the Roman god of agriculture, and to the founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus. The feast, in this time was celebrated during the ides of February or February 15.

And so, at the end of the fifth century Pope Gelasius declared Valentine’s Day on February 14th. In addition, February also marks the last part of winter and the beginning of the mating season for animals. The fact is that since the Middle Ages that day is dedicated to love, even if initially lovers only exchanged postcards with sweet phrases. Now, however, let’s talk about the jewels.

Orecchini in oro a forma di cuore e turchesi — Jennifer Mayer, orecchini in oro a forma di cuore e turchesi

Which jewel to give for Valentine’s Day?

Not too expensive. Do not confuse the party of lovers with the declaration of marriage. Unless you want the marriage request to coincide with February 14th. So, no woman expects a ring with a large diamond on Valentine’s day. You can choose a jewel of less importance, as long as you are sure that it meets the taste of your partner.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti a cuore — Recarlo, anello in oro bianco con diamanti a cuore

Not too flashy. A ring, a pair of earrings, a necklace, a bracelet: everything is fine, as long as it is not excessively lively. Valentine’s Day is the feast of love, not of color. Choose discreet, not too flashy and large jewelry.

Salvini, orecchini a forma di cuore in oro giallo e piccolo diamante

Not too strange. You don’t must amaze her, but only testify to your love. A simple ring is fine, a small chain also in silver, a pair of hoop earrings: classic jewels that will be accepted with pleasure.

Bracciale in argento 925 con sfere di acquamarina e ciondolo a cuore — Mabina, bracciale in argento 925 con sfere di acquamarina e ciondolo a cuore

Not too anonymous. Ok, no oddities: but love must be personalized. Choose a jewel that is suitable for those who receive it and, if possible, has a meaning linked to the life of a couple.

Pendente in oro bianco, diamanti e rubino a forma di cuore — Fabio Neri, pendente in oro bianco, diamanti e rubino a forma di cuore

Not too late. Valentine’s Day is not Christmas and neither is New Year’s Eve. Don’t wait for midnight to deliver your gift. The morning is the best time to deliver the gift: it will make the whole day happy. Alternatively, deliver the jewel before dinner: the evening will be more intense.

Collezione Beverly, orecchini cuore — Stroili, collezione Beverly, orecchini cuore

Red jewels for the 31 december night. Here is the history of tradition

Published on December 26, 2019

Campus

Bracciale Coeur Rouge, utilizza l'antica tecnica cinese della lacca, con rubini e rubelliti

It is already time to think about the New Year’s Eve on December 31st. In Italy, and not only, for the last day of the year red is the mandatory color: but do you know why? It is a long story that we now explain to you. But for jewelry, just wear a ring on your finger, a necklace or an earring to respect the tradition that wants to wear something vermilion in color to enter the new year. But of course, nothing prevents you from wearing red jewels even for the rest of the year.

Orecchini in oro rosa, piccoli diamanti e rubini

So, do you know why the tradition of wearing a red garment or a red jewel on the last day of the year was born?

Anello con diamanti e rubino taglio cuscino

According to some, it is a tradition that dates back to the time of the ancient Romans. During the era of Emperor Octavian Augustus (31 BC) for the Roman New Year it was customary to wear a deep red garment, the color of the garment of the senators. Red was considered a symbol of power, fertility, health and wealth. Later it also became the symbol of passion and love. At the end, a color brings luck.

That’s why wearing something red, like a ring with ruby, or earrings with rubellite or garnet, in Italy is considered a way to get 12 months of luck.

But, be careful, not everyone agrees with this reconstruction. According to others, in fact, the idea of the lucky red comes from China: in the East, in fact, this color is considered auspicious. So much so that red is used, for example, for weddings, to wish luck and fertility. An ancient Chinese tradition also confirms this: the red color was used to drive away an evil dragon, Nian, a demon who eats men. And precisely because it is able to drive away evil spirits, red is considered a good luck charm. All that remains is to immediately look for a jewel with a red stone.

Ciondolo labbra — Rosato, ciondolo labbra

Anello con corallo rosso e tsavoriti — Alex Ball, anello con corallo rosso e tsavoriti

Who decided the color of the year? Here’s how the choice is made

Published on December 10, 2019

Campus

Why was the color of the year 2020 blue and that of 2021 gray / yellow? And who decides what kind the color of the year is? Finally, does the color of the year also affect the world of jewelry?
If you are asking yourself questions about the color of the year, here is a very short answer: the color of the year is decided by an American company called Pantone. There is no precise reason why in 2020 blue rather than red or some other nuances are in fashion. The fact is that the idea of assigning a color to the year was a brilliant marketing idea and everyone is adapting. But let’s go step by step.

The color of the year is decided by Pantone, a US company controlled by a company called X-Rite, based in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Pantone deals with graphics technologies, for example the cataloging of colors and the production of the identification system. It is not enough, in fact, to say red: as anyone who chooses a precious stone to match another knows well, a ruby can have many nuances. And so are the other gems. The same goes for fabrics, painting, or more simply for car paint.

Anello in oro bianco con cupola in smalto giallo che si apre by Solange Azagury-Patridge

With the aim of cataloging all the nuances, Pantone Matching System has become the international standard for graphics and is also used for color management in industry and chemistry. The parent company, X-Rite, also deals with the classification of colors and photographic material for the world of pharmaceuticals and photogrammetric surveys.

Anello Crest in argento rodiato, zaffiri blu — Lynn Ban, anello Crest in argento rodiato, zaffiri blu

But let’s get to the color of the year. As we were saying, it is essentially a marketing idea designed to make the Pantone brand more known. The color of the year, in fact, has only existed since 2000, when the Pantone Color Institute (which is inside the company) started advertising the Color of the Year. At the moment they are part of the Pantone Color Institute Leatrice Eiseman, who is the Executive Director, David Saha, publisher of Metropolitan Publishing BV, Keith Recher, co-author of Pantone: The Twentieth Century in Color, and founder-editor of Hand / Eye Magazine, Tod Schulman, creative director of the Pantone Color Institute, and Laurie Pressman, of Pantone marketing. In short, everything in the family.

Anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu — Giovanni Ferraris, anello titanio, diamanti, zaffiri blu

The color is decided, as stated, through a discussion with several experts dealing with different fields. These experts meet in different cities every year and, after two days of debate, choose a color for the following year. The result of the meeting is then published in the Pantone View magazine, used by stylists and designers for their creations to be marketed the following year.

Is the color of the year really that categorical? In 2020, will blue fabrics or blue jewelery be more in demand than others? It’s all to discover. Certainly Pantone, thanks to the space conquered on internet sites and newspapers, will have accumulated another bit of notoriety.

Anello in titanio, diamanti e oro rosa — Syz Fireworks, anello in titanio blu, diamanti e oro rosa

A turquoise for your tanning

Published on September 1, 2019

Campus

Turquoise, the perfect stone to bring out the tan of summer. But pay attention to … ♦ ︎

Which jewel is better for your tanning? The answer is easy: the turquoise (if you want to know everything about turquoise click here. It is one of the stones used in jewelry since antiquity. But the word turquoise is more recent: it dates back to the seventeenth century and derives from the French word used for Turkish, that is to say, from Turkey, and this is because it was brought to Europe right through Turkey, from mines in the historic province of Khorasan in Persia.

Orecchini con turchese, oro rosa, diamanti di Chantecler

The turquoise color has always been used to bring out the hue of the skin darkened by the summer sun. The contrast between deep blue color and brown or beige nuances is immediately visible.

But, be careful: even if the combination of tanning and turquoise is perfect, it isn’t advisable to wear jewelry with turquoise in the sun. There is a reason: often the turquoise stone is treated to improve its color with oil, wax or plastic. The use of wax is a treatment used since antiquity. But the stones treated with oil or wax tend to “sweat” if they are exposed too much to the sun and can develop a white patina on the surface. Of course, you can always bring from the jeweler to restore the original color, but it is better if you can avoid it.
In other cases what you think is a turquoise is, instead, residual powder of the working held together by glues, resins and coloring materials: this is more likely if the jewel has cost very little. It is not true turquoise, even if it is sold as if it were real stone. Also in this case there is a greater risk of damaging the jewel with exposure to the sun or water.

Anello con turchesi e diamante — Sabba, anello con turchesi e diamante

Anello doppio, fiori con ape. Oro, diamanti, pasta di turchese — Brent Neale Winston, anello doppio, fiori con ape. Oro, diamanti, pasta di turchese

Netali Nissim, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e turchesi

Marco Bicego, bracciale con perle d'oro e turchese — Marco Bicego, bracciale con perle d’oro e turchese

Orecchini con turchesi — Marina J, orecchini con turchesi

Orecchini in turchese e diamanti neri. Prezzo: 6300 sterline — Anil Arjandas, orecchini in turchese e diamanti neri. Prezzo: 6300 sterline

Anello La reyna Coyote, turchese e tormaline verdi — Daniela Villegas, anello La Reina Coyote, turchese e tormaline verdi

Orecchini in oro e turchese — Al Coro, orecchini in oro e turchese

S'Agapò, bracciale con pvd giallo oro e elementi di turchese — S’Agapò, bracciale con pvd giallo oro e elementi di turchese

Orecchini in oro rosa e bianco, corallo giapponese, turchese, diamanti — Massimo Izzo, orecchini in oro rosa e bianco, corallo giapponese, turchese, diamanti

Bracciale in oro bianco con turchesi, diamanti e smeraldi — Sutra, bracciale in oro bianco con turchesi, diamanti e smeraldi

Anello con turchesi e tsavoriti incastonate su perle d’oro bianco — De Grisogono, anello con turchesi e tsavoriti incastonate su perle d’oro bianco

Black jade climbing

Published on January 30, 2017

Campus

Roberto Coin, bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti e giada nera

The black jade, charming stone that wants to ascend on the diamonds throne.
Roberto Coin has chosen it for his collection Black Jade: this stone could have a wide diffusion, assuming that if you find a sufficient quantity. To propose this valuable material is now Kings Stone US, a New York company that owns the rights of import to the US. To guarantee the quality and the characteristics of this stone are the National Gemstone Testing Center (NGTC), Chinese institution with the official license, and two American organizations, the American Gemological Laboratories (Agl) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI). The black jade which is proposed, however, does not come from China, but from a mine in South Africa of owned by King Stone, even though the certification of authenticity is the prerogative of NGTC, the leading authority on the subject.
The characteristics presented for this stone (it is jadeite, not nephritis) are relevant: is shining like a diamond and has a hardness of 7.5 to 8.5 on the Mohs scale, more or less so as an emerald or topaz (the Diamond is 10 ranked). In addition, according to King Stone, jade is an alternative to the “blacks treated diamonds”, since it is a stone from the natural color, glossy, and consistent as a precious stone. The effect is fascinating, as evidenced by the collection of Roberto Coin.