Diamonds with the marquise cut, or navette. All you need to know.
Is it possible to fall in love with a gem that resembles lips? Yes, if it is a marquise cut diamond. A diamond of this type has an elongated shape, like an oval with the two ends ending in a point. But before examining the characteristics of a marquise cut diamond, it is good to know why this shape is called with this name.
History. Marquise is a word which in French means marquise. Legend has it that King Louis XV of France (1710-1774), known as the Beloved, invented this elongated shape. According to this story, the king commissioned a jeweler to make a diamond with a cut inspired by the lips of his mistress, Jean Antoinette Poisson, i.e. the Marquise Madame de Pompadour. Et voila, here is the origin. Over time, those who at the court of France could boast the title of marquis loved to show off an elongated cut gem. And who wasn’t noble? Well, he called this type of cut with the name of navette, a French word that means small ship. In fact, it’s a definition that fits perfectly.
Features. The marquise cut usually uses a 2 to 1 ratio of length to width. But, of course, there can be small variations. This cut uses 58 facets, which run across the elliptical surface with the two pointed ends. In addition to the classic four Cs (color, cut, clarity, carat) symmetry is very important for a marquise-cut diamond: an error in the cut becomes particularly evident: for example, the two tips at the ends must align perfectly.
The merits. This type of diamond has the advantage of being very bright and, for the same weight, of being visually larger than a brilliant cut diamond. In short, it pays more. In addition, a navette diamond mounted on a ring helps to streamline the appearance of the wearer’s fingers.
The defects. The best marquise diamonds must have a particularly good color, that is, they must not be classified beyond H or G. Their shape, in fact, can tend to show a more colorful shade at both ends. But there are also those who appreciate this aspect and choose diamonds with more colors. Some experts warn of the possible lack of reflections in the center of the gem, but this only happens in some cases. Another aspect to pay attention to is the greater danger of damaging the stone by hitting it, especially in the two points, which are the areas most at risk.
The jewels. In some cases a marquise cut ring is used as a solitaire. A marquise-cut diamond engagement ring is a very refined choice. Much more often, however, this diamond shape is used for jewelry made up of many diamonds. In other cases, navette-cut diamonds accompany a ring with a central brilliant or cushion-cut or emerald-cut diamond on the sides. By the way, not only diamonds can have the marquise cut, but also other gems such as rubies and sapphires.