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GemGeneve breaks the record and returns in November

Published on May 18, 2023

Vetrina a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Story of the duckling that turned into a swan: GemGenève, a fair dedicated to gems, vintage and design jewels, was born in 2018 as a bet by two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber, it has turned into an event that repeat every six months. Closed the May session, the next edition has already been announced for November 2-5. A result that was hard to believe given that the starting idea was that of a small specialized fair, an alternative to the expensive Baselworld. Instead, the Goliath-Baselworld was knocked out by the slingshot of companies intolerant of that grandeur.

GemGèneve 2023

The GemGèneve balance for May 2023 indicates 4,320 visitors and 192 professional resellers out of a total of 230 exhibitors. The statistics also indicate that 1,400 of the 4,320 visitors went to GemGèneve more than once, bringing the total number of visits to 6,487, more than a thousand more than in the November 2022 edition (5,205). These figures, the organizers explain, are an excellent sign, especially in light of the continuing impact of the crisis in Ukraine.

Gioielli a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com

We are proud that with this most recent edition, GemGenève has become an established part of the cultural fabric of Geneva and the international scene.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot — Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

Alongside the consolidated companies, the protagonists of the Designer Vivarium, Emerging Talent & New Designers, selected by Vivienne Becker and Nadège Totah, the schools, the Villa of Lost Arts, the exhibition of the Museum of Art and History (MAH) of Geneva dedicated to automatons and music, the LetuBooks bookshop and the Gem Collectors bookshops, laboratories and other trade fair partners. But the new location, in pavilion 1 of the Palaexpo, and a more refined organization of spaces have also contributed to the evolution of GemGèneve. Alongside this, an efficient organization. In one word: Switzerland. A warranty.

Business in GemGèneve

The Bulgari Laguna Blu sold at Sotheby’s for 25 million

Published on May 17, 2023

Bulgari Laguna Blu and Priyanka Chopra Jonas

A $25 million blue diamond. This is what an anonymous buyer paid over the phone for the Bulgari Laguna Blu, auctioned by Sotheby’s in Geneva. The sale of Magnificent Jewels totaled $85 million, the highest value since May 2018 at the Geneva Jewelery Sales. The 11.16-carat fancy-vivid blue diamond is now the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel and the most valuable Bulgari gem ever offered for sale.

Bulgari Laguna Blu, 11,16 ct — Bulgari Laguna Blu, Fancy Vivid, 11,16 ct

Created in 1970 by Bulgari as a ring, when Bulgari was emerging as the most influential and innovative Italian high jewelery house, diamond is a rarity: it is an 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid blue, among the rarest gems in the world, it is a Bulgari signed jewel, and is unmodified, meaning that its current cut, produced in 1970, could be further enhanced by modern cutting methods to unleash its full potential as a gem.

Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas

It has been a privilege to witness the glamorous and exciting journey of the Bulgari Blue Lagoon over the past few months, knowing it was first created in 1970, up until its most recent appearance at the Met Gala where it dazzled on the red carpet, set in a Bulgari custom made necklace worn by Priyanka Chopra Jones. So, it is a special moment to see the journey of this extraordinary gem take yet another new turn, this evening in our auction room, into the hands of its first new owner in over 50 years. The Blue Lagoon sale surpasses the outstanding performance of our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale which saw exceptional colored gemstones, particularly emeralds and yellow diamonds, surpass their high estimates, so spectacularly. There is no doubt that the Fine jewelry of the highest quality can still fetch sky-high prices.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring

Sotheby’s Geneva’s auction saw over half (53.4%) of all lots sold above the high estimate and virtually all lots sold fetched prices within or above the estimates (97%).

The Bulgari Laguna Blu was auctioned last in the second session of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, following a series of spectacular sales of designer jewelery and exceptional gemstones. After a four-minute bidding battle between three telephone bidders and one bidder in the room, he finally found a buyer over the phone.

Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace

Colored gemstones, and especially colored designer jewelry, had a stellar night with nearly a quarter of all lots selling above already high estimates, led by sales of yellow ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond jewelry and rose. For example, a Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Diamond ring was sold for $11.7 million, purchased by Diacore. The same company was awarded another Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring, for 1.3 million.

Sapphire and diamond pendant

Natural pearl and diamond necklace

A super diamond for peace at Christie’s auction

Published on May 17, 2023

The Light of Peace Diamond, 126,76 ct

In times when cannons sound instead of words, invoking peace is salutary. Even through a diamond. The Light of Peace Diamond, (estimate: $10-15 million) is a D-color, internally flawless, type IIa, pear-shaped brilliant cut diamond weighing 126.76 carats. The gem is the star of the Magnificent Jewels auction organized by Christie’s on June 7 in New York. The auction also includes jewels from private collections signed by Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura. The complete selection will be displayed before the sale as part of Christie’s New York Luxury Week from June 2 to June 6.

The Light of Peace Diamond, which is offered without reserve, was formerly known as the Zale Light of Peace, owned by Texan jewelers Zale Corporation of Dallas. The Zales family chose this name along with a fund for peace support missions alongside philanthropic donations. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will be donated by the current owners to the United States for UNHCR, the United Nations Refugee Agency.

Diamante blu vivido fantasia di 3,10 carati — diamond 3.10 carats, Fancy Vivid Blue, VS2 clarity, Type IIb

More diamonds

In addition to the pacifist gem, the auction includes other diamonds, including a 3.10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring (estimate 4,200,000-5,200,000), a 50.40-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond pendant ( 700,000-1,200,000), and an elegant ring with a deep pink diamond weighing 4.01 carats (1,500,000-2,500,000). The colored gemstones are represented by a magnificent 71.27 carat Royal Blue Burmese sapphire set in a diamond pendant (3,000,000-5,000,000), a pair of Harry Winston emerald and diamond drop earrings (500,000- 700,000) and a Burmese ruby of 10.17 carats (400,000-600,000).

Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire and diamond mystery-set bracelete

The sale features highlights from the collection of Adolphus Andrews, Jr. and Emily Taylor Andrews. The collection is rich in its variety, with an emphasis on color and original design, including an iconic mystery-set sapphire and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels (250,000-350,000), reflecting the ingenious setting style of the Parisian house. Also featured in the sale is a selection of jewelry formerly from the collection of Betsey Cushing Whitney, the New York philanthropist and socialite known for her exceptional style and taste in her. Offered is a Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby, Emerald and Diamond Necklace and Earrings Set, circa 1970 (400,000-600,000).

Collana di smeraldi e diamanti Chaumet Art Déco appartenuta alla famiglia Rothschild — Chaumet Art Deco emerald and diamond necklace that belonged to the Rothschild family

Rothschilds and Greta Garbo

Also among the jewels for sale is an impressive Art Deco Chaumet emerald and diamond necklace (2,000,000-3,000,000) of the Rothschild family, including the late Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, the late Jacqueline de Rothschild Piatigorsky and the late Jephta Drachman (née Piatigorsky). The necklace was made especially for the family in 1930 and is well documented in the Chaumet archives.

Jar, colored diamond and diamond shell brooch

On the other hand, seven jewels by Jar that have never before appeared at auction belong to an American collector. Unpublished such as Salvador Dalí’s Étoile De Mer brooch (1,000,000-1,500,000) from an important private collection and previously from the collection of Rebekah Harkness, recently exhibited at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City in 2021 and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring (50,000-70,000) and a Van Cleef & Arpels diamond flower brooch (10,000-15,000) formerly from the collection of Greta Garbo.

Spilla di Salvador Dalì a forma di stella marina con perle, rubini, diamanti e smeraldi — Salvador Dali brooch in the shape of a starfish with pearls, rubies, diamonds and emeralds

The Christie’s auction will also include The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower. The top lot of the sale is the iconic Jarretière ruby and diamond bracelet, purchased by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 from Van Cleef & Arpels (2,500,000-4,500,000). Additional highlights include a variety of magnificent jewels, including a rare Art Deco Diamond and Multi-Gem Moonlight Rose bracelet, by Tiffany & Co (500,000-700,000), an Art Deco Diamond Bangle by Cartier (150,000–250,000) as well as an important D-color diamond ring of 20.54 carats (1,200,000–1,800,000).

Diamond pendant necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels diamond ring

Tiffany on stage with Beyoncé

Published on May 16, 2023

Beyoncé has been an artist linked to Tiffany & Co for some years. Now this bond is also strengthened on the stage of the American singer’s shows. The Maison of the Lvmh group has announced a partnership on the occasion of Beyoncé’s Renaissance World Tour. Planned concerts of Beyoncé Giselle Knowles-Carter (singer’s full name) are over 50 shows. The artist, who currently holds the record for a Grammy Award, will perform wearing custom-designed Tiffany & Co. jewelry. In addition to those pieces created especially for her, Beyoncé will also wear Tiffany HardWear and Elsa Peretti jewels.

Beyoncé, Tiffany Renaissance Tour

This new combination represents, explains the jewelry company, a natural evolution of the 2022 campaign of the Maison Lose Yourself ibn love, which featured Beyoncé. In the video, inspired by Studio 54 in New York, Beyoncé rocked a nocturnal vibe wearing a custom Tiffany HardWear necklace and spectacular diamond designs, including a 10-carat diamond ring and diamond-encrusted Lock bracelets.
The first ear-earring, made with 4.5 carats of white diamonds has already been unveiled at her inaugural concert on May 10 in Stockholm, Sweden, and will be worn during her tour. In Brussels, however, the singer wore an exclusive jewel, a necklace with crystals.

Beyoncé a Bruxelles con la necklace with crystals . Courtesy courtesy of Parkwood Imagery — Beyoncé in Brussels with the necklace with crystals. Courtesy of Parkwood Imagery

Beyoncé in Tiffany

Beyoncé with earpiece boasting Tiffany

Oroarezzo shines again

Published on May 16, 2023

Oroarezzo Première

Oroarezzo 2023 went well, the results indicate: +40% in attendance of visitors compared to 2022 and at the level of 2019 from a hundred countries, more numerous than in recent years. Visitors arrived in 42% of Europe (especially Spain, France and Romania), from the Middle East (25.5%), the Americas (11.3%) and Asia (11%), Africa (9.1%). The number of hosted buyers doubled: 430, from 55 countries, thanks to the synergy with Agenzia Ice. The 2023 edition was characterized by a new positioning on the calendar of appointments for the gold and jewelery business. Furthermore, the event organized by Ieg gave more space to goldsmith and jewelery production and to the technology segment.

Oroarezzo 2023

Visitors also found a new layout that facilitated the experience between different exhibition sectors, a large investment in the contingent of buyers all reported by exhibitors as important buyers and finally a growing content program and the involvement of the younger generations with the new Talents category of the Première contest. Talents has expanded the audience of creatives who have measured themselves with the theme of light to the students of three training courses of local goldsmith schools: the Master in History, Design and Marketing of Jewelery of the University of Siena Campus of Arezzo, the ‘Professional Technical Institute Margaritone and the Liceo Statale Piero della Francesca, both in Arezzo.

Gioielli a Oroarezzo

Sicis takes micro mosaic jewels to the USA

Published on May 16, 2023

Sicis jewels with micro mosaic conquer the American market. The Italian high jewelery company based in Ravenna, directed by Gioia Placuzzi, has announced an expansion program, after having consolidated its presence in Europe with boutiques in Milan, Paris and London. The Maison has recently participated in the second edition of Haute Jewels Geneva with a pop up store that has attracted the attention of international players. And Sicis has long been very active on the Middle East market, with participation in events in Dubai and Doha. Now focus on the US. In New York he opened an office, with a sales manager. Then, it reached a collaboration agreement with Ife Lux Group, an agency based in Miami specialized in the representation of luxury brands, which will deal with the promotion of the brand throughout the United States, Canada and Central America.

Sicis, anello con rubellite, diamanti, micro mosaico. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Sicis, ring with rubellite, diamonds, micro mosaic. Copyright: jewels.com

Sicis will also participate in Couture at the Wynn in Las Vegas (June 1-4), another opportunity to show the new jewelry collections and meet American buyers. The brand brings to Las Vegas its latest novelties presented at the recent Haute Jewels and Saudi Luxury Week. Damisa Ice, the refined white leopard with diamond pavé, Nebula Supernova, an explosion of red micromosaic and sapphires, and Incanto, delicate petals embellished with rubellites and kunzites, will be just some of the proposals.

Lavorazione della collana Incanto — Working of the Incanto necklace

The timeless beauty of our micromosaic jewels deserves to be discovered all over the world, and for this reason we have decided to expand our presence in the United States as well. The collaboration with IFE Lux Group and participation in Couture and other trade fairs are strategies that will allow us to consolidate our presence in the American territory and reach new customers, as well as offering them an even more complete and personalized service.
Gioia Placuzzi, creative director of Sicis Jewels

Gioia Placuzzi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello con rubellite, tormalina, diamanti, micro mosaico. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Ring with rubellite, tourmaline, diamonds, micro mosaic. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Anello con tormalina verde, zaffiri, diamanti, micro mosaico. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Ring with green tourmaline, sapphires, diamonds, micro mosaic. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

L'anello si può separare in due elementi — The ring can be separated into two elements. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Il pop up store di Sicis durante Haute Jewels — Sicis pop up store during Haute Jewels

The best jewels of Oroarezzo

Published on May 15, 2023

F.A. Anello della linea Dahlia in oro e pietre preziose

During Oroarezzo, a fair dedicated to the Made in Italy production of gold and jewelery, the Première competition has been held for 32 editions, which rewards the jewel chosen by a jury presided over by the creator of the contest, Beppe Angiolini, honorary president of the national chamber of fashion buyers. For 2023 the theme concerned light. Among the 56 creations in the competition, the 13 winning brands were selected: Moraglione 1922, Quadrifoglio, F.A. Jewels, Artlinea, Anima, Silver Light Group, Gobi Preziosi, Veneroso, Daniela Neri, Graziella Braccialini, Giordini, Unoaerre Industries, Alunno & Co, plus D’Orica as a special mention.

Anello “Anastasia” in oro rosé con un luminoso quarzo rutilato e base di
madreperla, corona di diamanti bianchi neri e beige. Eleganza e raffinatezza caratterizzano questo
gioiello magistralmente modellato e fuso a cera persa. — Moraglione, anello Anastasia in oro rosé con quarzo rutilato e base di madreperla, corona di diamanti bianchi neri e beige

Alongside the established companies, Marta d’Ambrosio was chosen for the Talents under 30 category, with the Luce è vita series. Composed of a radial element with an opal cabochon in the center from which smooth rays of yellow gold depart, alternating with those of white gold studded with luminous stones of various colors, according to the jury «it represents a typical example of jewelery that characterizes the most refined realizations of the Italian Style». The winner will be able to see their creative idea realized. In the new category dedicated to aspiring under 30 goldsmiths, three classes of institutes competed: the Master in History, Design and Marketing of Jewelery of the University of Siena, Campus of Arezzo, the Margaritone Professional Technical Institute and the Liceo Statale Piero della Francesca, both from Arezzo, for a total of 15 free-themed projects.

Alunno, collana multistrand di catene herringbone piatte — Alunno, collana multistrand di catene herringbone piatte, luminose, specchiate e flessibili

Collana di D'Orica, azienda certificata B-corp — Collana di D’Orica, azienda certificata B-corp

Collana tribale di sfere cesellate manualmente assemblate a grappoli pendenti che nel muoversi emettono anche suoni

Art-Linea, anello fuochi d’artificio, composto da 40 elementi dinamici con diamanti

Bracciale Luce dell’anima, con tagli irregolari che incastonano
file di cristalli

Graziella Braccialini. Collana Donna Sole realizzata con l’elettro formatura

Giordini, bracciale È nata una stella, con un nucleo centrale formato da una sequenza di specchi
rettangolari e dorati

Bracciale rigido tripartito in oro rosé con pietre tormalina

Unoaerre. Bracciale di catene a palline che formano una frangia in movimento come una pioggia luminosa di cristalli

Marta D'Ambrosio — Marta D’Ambrosio

Silver Light. Anello della luce ispirato all’architettura modernista di le Corbusier e di
Gaudí

Collana a indosso elastico in oro giallo, rosa e bianco

Bracciale Mia, strutturato da una serie di lamine come se fosse un elemento
architettonico

Oroarezzo starts

Published on May 12, 2023

Edizione 2019 di Oroarezzo

Oroarezzo is back. The 2023 edition (May 13-16) of the Italian Exhibition Group event is dedicated to the made in Italy gold and jewelery production. The event is hosted in the Arezzo Fiere hall: this is the 42nd edition. Arezzo, among other things, has confirmed itself as the first Italian province for exports of precious goods, with 3.2 billion euros, around 31 % of the national total. The Tuscan one is a gold district that in 2022 recorded an export growth of 19%.

Sfilata a Oroarezzoi — Oroarezzo jewelry

In short, Oroarezzo is a point of reference for goldsmithing. 350 exhibiting brands, over 400 buyers from 55 countries are registered at the fair, thanks to the collaboration with Ice (the government agency for export). There is also room for high quality jewellery, demonstrated by the new edition of the Première competition, this year dedicated to the theme of light and open for the first time to goldsmith school students with the new Talents category.

Lavorazione artigianale di gioielli d'oro — Lavorazione artigianale di gioielli d’oro

After increases of more than 30% in value in the first two quarters of 2022, exports from the Italian gold-jewellery sector recorded +14.6% in the third quarter and +5.4% in the fourth. The 12-month cumulative recorded growth in value of 20.5% on January-December 2021, settling at 9.8 billion euro, of which 75% to non-EU markets, while the growth compared to 6.96 billion euros exported in 2019 is 40.8%. The average increase in turnover in the sector is +20.8% on 2021. Also from the point of view of industrial production, the sector in 2022 confirms a good stability in operations, with growth of 13.6% compared to the period January-December 2021 (processed by the Study Center of Confindustria Moda on Istat data for Federorafi). A sector that is also growing on the employment front: according to Infocamere data, in 2022 the growth of employees was +5.4% (+1,650 units).

La difficile arte del gioiello

Many jewels up for auction with Cambi

Published on May 12, 2023

Bracciale di Michele della Valle con ametista e diamanti

Many quality jewels, from famous brands: there are almost 400 lots that make up the Fine Jewels catalog of the Cambi Auction House. The sale is scheduled for Wednesday 17 May from 11.00 in the Milan office (via San Marco 22, Milan). In the first round of the auction (lots 1/98) period jewels are the protagonists: among the most interesting objects stand out a collection of corals from various periods and origins, a parure of shell cameos depicting famous Italian poets and classical divinities with original case (estimate: 6,000-8,000 euros), and a micromosaic bracelet with views of Rome (9,000-11,000).

Corals and cameos

In the second round (lots 99/402) contemporary jewels are on sale, such as the choker from the Serpenti collection by Bulgari (40,000-60,000), a bracelet with amethyst and diamonds by Michele della Valle (6,000-7,000), a convertible diamond sautoir in necklace and bracelets (30,000-40,000) and a bracelet from the Panthère collection by Cartier (10,000-15,000).

Panthère bangle by Cartier

Among the top lots are a refined tiara in Colombian diamonds and emeralds (20,000-25,000), a ring with a Colombian emerald of approximately 10 carats (50,000-60,000), a brilliant-cut diamond of 3.48 carats (50,000-60,000), a ring with Kashmir sapphire (60,000-80,000) and a brilliant cut diamond of 13.39 carats (70,000-90,000).

Ring with Colombian emerald of about 10 carats

Ring with a cabochon-cut Sri Lankan sapphire weighing 7.82 carats and diamonds

The Feelings of Nikos Koulis

Published on May 11, 2023

Anello doppio Feelings in oro, smalto e diamanti

Nikos Koulis is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers. Awarded, praised, sought after: his collections are a personal evolution that has its roots in art deco, but with a good dose of contemporaneity. Witness the classic collection entitled Feelings, which is renewed and re-proposed with new and surprising pieces. The jewels use a particular snake chain in yellow gold, which can be manipulated, curving it or knotting it in different shapes. Alongside the gold of the chain there is also a classic by Nikos Koulis, diamonds of different cuts aligned to form geometric figures and black enamel.

Nikos Koulis, gold and diamonds earrings

More rarely, however, together with the soft chains of the Feelings collection, Koulis also uses emeralds and blue sapphires. The collection includes many earrings, but also bracelets, necklaces and rings. The gold is mainly yellow, but with some white gold details. The closures of the necklaces are snap hooks. The jewels are handmade in Athens, where the designer’s boutique is also located.

18K Yellow And White Gold Diamond Earrings

Together 18K Yellow And White Gold Diamond Earrings

Together 18K Yellow And White Gold Diamond Earrings

Gold Feelings necklace

Gold 18k yellow and white gold, emerald, diamonds earrings

Nikos Koulis. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The largest artificial diamond is from India

Published on May 11, 2023

By Ethereal Green Diamond, 34,59 ct. Photo: Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung

The technology applied to the diamond industry has produced the largest artificially created gem. This was announced by the Gemological Institute of America, which has cataloged a laboratory-grown diamond of record weight. The gem was produced in a chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process by Ethereal Green Diamond, a company based in Mumbai, India. The man-made diamond presented at the GIA laboratory in Hong Kong weighs 34.59 carats and has an emerald cut. It is the largest lab-grown diamond GIA has ever examined, according to Wuyi Wang, GIA’s vice president of research and development. Alongside the interest in the unusual dimensions of the stone, however, the quality must also be considered.

Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici — A synthetic diamond production plant

The diamond has been graded G color (the best class is D) and VS2 clarity. In the gem there are small inclusions of black graphite inside and others that testify to the growth layers of the diamond. This type of diamond, in fact, is created with an accumulation of special steam inside special machines. Fluorescence examination revealed growth streaks typically seen in diamonds created with the CVD technique. Not only that: there is also a faintly oily or wavy grain in the facet of the surface, a characteristic that occurs in diamonds of this type. So far, the record for lab grown diamonds was held by the 16.41 carat princess cut diamond created by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology and examined in GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory in 2022.

La nuova miniera: l'impianto di produzione in Oregon di diamanti artificiali — Lightbox (De Beers) Man-Made Diamond Oregon Manufacturing Facility

GemGeneve reopens its doors with 190 exhibitors

Published on May 7, 2023

Vetrina a GemGenève. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The doors of the sixth edition of GemGèneve are opening, the event dedicated to vintage and design jewels, to new talents, to surprising gems, but also to meetings and exhibitions. Born almost as a bet from the ashes of Baselworld on the initiative of two jewelers from Geneva, Ronny Totah Thomas Faerber, GemGèneve managed to establish itself and even overcome the pandemic period unscathed. Indeed, in recent years it has even doubled with an autumn edition. This year (11-14 May), among other things, it moves to Pavilion 1 of the Palexpo on 13,000 square meters of exhibition space. The Parisian design agency Autre Idée, which has been collaborating with the organizers since 2021, has opted for an installation based on the theme of plants and organic life for the spring edition.

Espositore a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

There are about 190 exhibitors from 20 countries. About a quarter come from the United States, followed by Switzerland, Hong Kong and Germany, but also Israel, Belgium, Thailand, India and France, followed by companies from the United Kingdom, Italy, the United United Arab, Sri Lanka and Singapore, and last but not least Russia, Poland, Austria, Japan, Spain and China.

GemGèneve edizione 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve 2018. Copyright: gioiellis.com

As we welcome more dealers to GemGenève for this edition, we’ve also given careful thought to exhibition traffic. The challenge is to preserve the balance between our DNA – passing on our passion to emerging designers and schools, a diverse cultural programme, and the desire to remain a human-sized event – and the quality of exhibitors and merchandise on display, whilst making sure the visitor experience is as streamlined as possible.
Ronny Totah

Ronny Totah, organizzatore di GemGenève e co-fondatore dell'evento. Foto: G.Maillot — Ronny Totah. Photo: G.Maillot

Of the exhibitors, 48 are taking part in GemGeneve for the sixth time, while another 20 are making their debut. Newcomers include names such as Berçot (France), Tom Munsteiner, Heinz Meyer, Emil Weiss Opals (Germany) and JS Fearnley (USA). Sim Gems (Hong Kong), Hari Krishna Exports (India), Futurgem (Italy), Ultraco (Switzerland), Topaze Impériale (Austria), KGK Gems Limited (Thailand). Other innovations concern the emerging talents and new designers area, curated by Nadège Totah. In this area, the fine jewelry of the Belgian designer Fred Fa will debut, refined and a bit mysterious, who makes all his sketches, technical drawings and gouache jewelry designs by hand. In the same area there will be Serendipity Jewelry, the fruit of one of the emerging talents of the November 2022 edition, but this time in the New Designers category, as well as the talented Austy Lee Art Jewelery from Hong Kong: she creates bold, psychedelic, sculptural and complex pieces . The Designer Vivarium will always be curated by the jewelry history Vivienne Becker.

Visitatori a GemGèneve. Copyright: gioiellis.com — GemGèneve 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Pandora balanced in the first quarter

Published on May 3, 2023

Timeless Pandora

Monitoring Pandora accounts also means keeping an eye on the trend of the entire jewelry market. Pandora is a global company and records, beyond its own managerial choices, also the trends that cross the precious sector. The Danish group, according to the financial results for the first quarter of 2023, seems to be going through a phase of slow growth. From what? From the problems of the world economy, it is the response of the company, which defines its performance as positive, but resilient. The increase in the cost of raw materials, especially gold and silver, is being felt. And in an environment of inflation it is difficult to make sales of mid-range jewels shine.

Store Pandora a Torino

Specifically, organic growth in the first quarter of the year was 1%. But if the assets are compared with those of the corresponding period, on a like-for-like basis, the balance sheet indicates 0%. That is, the hands have remained steady: growth was zero in key European markets, the United States dropped to -7% (as in the fourth quarter of 2022), but all this was offset by the remaining markets, where Pandora grew by 12%. The result is also mitigated by the expansion of the network, which has favored a growth of 3%, with strong margins.

Collana in argento e cristalli Pandora Moments — Collana in argento e cristalli Pandora Moments indossata

Speaking of margins: the gross result tends to rise and reaches 77.5%, a slight improvement. But the Ebit margin (gross profit) is at 21.5%, down by 1.5 percentage points compared to the corresponding quarter of 2022 due, says the company, to the accounting scan between revenues and costs. In the end, the 2023 Ebit will be substantially in line with that of 2022, thanks to a policy of price adjustments, which will be increased further. The company remains financially healthy and, like many other listed companies, is planning a buy-back to support the stock.

Bracciale Pandora con cuore, chiave e lucchetto in argento placcato oro — Bracciale in argento placcato oro 14 carati

What are Pandora’s plans? The company says it has further solidified the Moment collection’s position as a global leader in the jewelry product category with the launch of a new geometric link bracelet. The new bracelet has seen strong demand in most geographic areas. Investments in other platforms (jewelry lines) have recorded results that are defined as encouraging. Timeless had a strong quarter and growth of 11%, while Pandora Me was up 21%. Diamonds by Pandora is proceeding as planned. That is, not much is known yet. The company is also preparing for a relaunch in China, in the wake of the post-covid crisis.

Aurora Ruffino con gioielli Pandora — L’attrice Aurora Ruffino con gioielli Pandora

We started 2023 well with resilient growth and solid margins. Our investments in uplifting the brand are paying off, with good performance in our flagship Moments business and strong results from our new platforms, Timeless and Pandora ME. It is clear that we are increasingly the preferred jewelery brand, especially on gift occasions. The macroeconomic outlook remains uncertain, but we are confident in our ability to adapt and thrive, as we have demonstrated in recent quarters.
Alexander Lacik, president and chief executive officer of Pandora

Alexander Lacik, ceo di Pandora — Alexander Lacik, presidente e Ceo di Pandora

Lab-created one-third of diamonds for engagement rings

Published on May 3, 2023

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera

In the United States, more than a third of solitaire engagement rings sold last year were made with lab-created diamonds. This is indicated by an online survey conducted on almost 12,000 US couples by the company specializing in wedding planning The Knot. The number represents double compared to 2020. The survey proposes the duel between artificially created diamonds, which from a chemical point of view are identical to natural ones, and traditional gems extracted in mines.
Are Lab Diamonds Sustainable?
What are Lab Diamonds?

Diamante di laboratorio prodotto da Aether Diamonds

Factory-created diamonds, mostly in China or India where energy comes mainly from large polluting power plants, cost a third of natural ones and, if you don’t have to resell the jewel in a few years, hardly anyone will be able to distinguish the difference between a natural gem and one artificial, at least to the naked eye. Currently, wrote The Wall Street Journal, a one-carat lab-grown diamond retails for about $1,430, while a traditionally mined gemstone of the same size retails for $5,635.

Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice — Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice di Brilliant Earth

However, many large jewelery houses remain against the use of laboratory diamonds. Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier recently reiterated his opposition and sided with traditional diamonds, at least for engagement ones: “There is a difference in having something created by the Earth in 4 million years and something made in four minutes in your garage, when you want to express a symbol of eternity,” he said.

Anello con diamanti di laboratorio

Meanwhile, however, artificial diamonds are now also used by major watch brands. For example, Tag Heuer (LVMH group) has used lab grown diamonds in the Carrera Plasma model: the crown is made up of a whole diamond, while the rest of the watch is encrusted with irregularly shaped stones. Doing the same with the quarried stones would have been wasteful, given the cutting and shaping that would have been required, according to the company.

Tag Heuer Carrera Plasma con diamanti lab grown

Gucci and Breitling have also used laboratory stones. Not only that: Breitling has announced that all of its watches will use only lab-grown diamonds within the next year. And he has already presented the first timepiece with artificial stones, the Super Chronomat 38 Origins.

Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 origins, con diamanti di laboratorio

Virtual reality jewelry shopping by Perfect

Published on May 2, 2023

Shopping con la realtà virtuale di perfect

Virtual reality to sell jewelry. Digital technology is the new frontier for the world of jewelry: it allows you to view the jewel in a virtual but realistic way, for an engaging shopping experience. This is what Perfect, a Taiwanese hi-tech company (listed on the American Stock Exchange) proposes with its Virtual-Try-On solution. The idea behind it is simple: to allow real-time testing of necklaces, rings, watches, earrings and bracelets. To make the shopping experience even more realistic and tailored, the company has developed an intuitive 3D viewing and reproduction tool, which allows brands to convert product models into three-dimensional try-on experiences.

What to do
What does a jewelery maker have to do to use virtual reality? It is about adding the Virtual-Try-On technology within the e-commerce site. In this way, according to Perfect, buyers can try the product of interest on their skin and select the right one. The AgileHand technology used by the company and artificial intelligence learning algorithms allow real-time simulation of hand movements without the need for external markers. In this way, trying on rings, bracelets or watches online is much more natural.

Perfect has further developed the Virtual Try-On solution with the integration of the online 3D viewer and configurator. Available for rings and watches, the new 3D technology promises to simplify and optimize the entire three-dimensional reproduction process of products, allowing brands to easily convert standard Cad model files and offering customers the ability to customize the chosen accessories by browsing catalogs of built-in materials and textures for developing renderings and real-time previews. A proposition that also seems interesting for buyers, who can order made-to-measure pieces for their own market.

In the luxury ring and watch industry, Ar technology has incredible potential to provide a more personalized consumer experience. We are excited to announce our new 3D Visualization and Production tool, confident that it will allow brands to integrate and optimize shopping journeys, while also increasing customer confidence in buying online.
Alice Chang, CEO and founder of Perfect Corp

Alice Chang, Ceo di Perfect Corp

In this way, jewelery brands can select elements that can be customized from the available catalogs or upload ad hoc textures to increase the creative possibilities. Furthermore, by implementing Perfect’s innovative 3D technology within their e-commerce site, luxury watch and ring companies can create their own online 3D product configurators, allowing luxury customers to increase purchasing confidence and , at the same time, enjoy an exclusive shopping experience.

Great jewels for sale with Faraone Casa d’Aste

Published on May 1, 2023

Anello con smeraldo colombiano dal taglio ottagonale di circa 21,70 carati e due diamanti triangolari ai lati

Cartier, Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, or niche brands such as Frascarolo, Faraone and Spallanzani: jewels and watches, as well as a certain number of luxury goods, are the protagonists of the sale organized by Faraone Casa d’Aste at the Portrait Hotel in Milan on May 24th. The sale can also be followed in streaming, by phone or through the Myfaraone app. The auction includes 300 lots. The most quoted piece is a ring with an octagonal cut Colombian emerald of about 21.70 carats and two triangular diamonds on the sides. Followed by a pair of pendant earrings with two old-cut diamonds at the ends of 4.45 and 4.65 carats respectively, flanked by a pair of earrings in platinum and white gold with drop and navette diamonds for a total of approximately 18 carats.

orecchini pendenti con alle estremità due diamanti old-cut rispettivamente di 4,45 e 4,65 carati — Orecchini pendenti con alle estremità due diamanti old-cut rispettivamente di 4,45 e 4,65 carati

The catalog also includes two bracelets, one of which in platinum with 15.50 carats of diamonds, round and navette, and oval no-heat sapphires weighing a total of about 15 carats and one with a floral motif in white gold with oval cut Burmese rubies for a total of 24.50 carats and round diamonds totaling 9.80 carats. Also noteworthy is a yellow gold ring set with a brilliant-cut diamond of approximately 4.90 carats adorned with two rows of diamonds.

Bracciale a motivo floreale in oro bianco con rubini birmani a taglio ovale per un totale di 24,50 carati e diamanti rotondi per complessivi 9,80 carati

Also in the auction are Rolex, Vacheron Constatin, Piaget, Omega and Cartier wristwatches. Best in show and arrived with closed catalog, a Rolex Daytona Special Edition with case and dial finished with pavé diamonds and carré rubies, followed by a Rolex Date Just Ovettone thousand lines, 1950s, with yellow gold case . Also from the same period, a hand-wound Patek Phillippe Lady, with a 14mm case in 18K yellow gold, with a black rat tail strap and supplied with the original case of the time. From the decade just before, a Vacheron Constantin with automatic movement and perpetual calendar, in pink gold, with original box and guarantee.

Rolex Daytona Special Edition con cassa e quadrante rifiniti con pavé di diamanti e rubini carré

At the end of the first afternoon session, a parenthesis of solidarity: Faraone Casa d’Aste has in fact embraced the worthy initiative of the Crieri jewelery brand to sell two bracelets of the latter, respectively one with seven strands in burnished gold with black diamonds for 9, 65 carats and colorless diamonds for 2.65 carats and another with three rows in white gold with diamonds for about 4.50 carats, and five paintings from the new photographic campaign. The proceeds will be entirely donated to the non-profit organization Me.Dea, an anti-violence centre, which provides assistance and support to women victims of violence and mistreatment, as well as actively engaging in promoting information, prevention and awareness campaigns for this delicate and current topic.

Anello in oro giallo e diamanti. Il diamante rotondo taglio a brillante è di circa 4,90 carati

Bracciale in platino con 15,50 carati di diamanti, rotondi e navette, e zaffiri ovali no-heat del peso complessivo di circa 15 carati

Coppia di orecchini in platino e oro bianco con diamanti a goccia e navette per complessivi 18 carati circa

Rolex Date Just Ovettone mille righe, anni Cinquanta, con cassa in oro giallo

A bracelet for the Napoli championship

Published on April 29, 2023

In Italy, football is a religion. But in Naples it is still something more. And the third conquest of the football championship was lived in the city with incredible passion. The world of jewelery could not miss the appointment. To celebrate the event is the goldsmith artist, but also former footballer Gianfranco Quartaroli, who underlines that he had the good fortune to play against Diego Armando Maradona, still revered in Naples, he designed and created the bracelet with the lucky charms hanging from the third scudetto of the 2022-2023 season. Even the lucky charm symbols, or chasing bad luck, are a Neapolitan tradition and the bracelet perfectly sums up the local tradition and the sporting event.

I ciondoli del bracciale Napoletanissimo

The Napoletanissimo bracelet by Gianfranco Quartaroli is made up of the most classic symbols of Neapolitan charms: pizza, curniciello (the lucky horn), Vesuvius, the blue enamelled shirt of the football team with number 10 (that of Maradona), puffin, horns, donkey, San Gennaro, the protective mask of Osimhen (the team’s center forward) with number 9, the cuccumella (the coffee maker), the 77 of Kvara (Khvicha Kvaratskhelia Georgian player of Naples), the number 3 of the third championship. Even if the bracelet could be dedicated to a fan of the team, the Napoletanissimo bracelet is dedicated to all women who love the city of Naples, Campania, and Neapolitans in general. The bracelet is available in three versions in gold, silver and steel.

La griffe Napoletanissimo

The shadow of Nazism on Christie’s largest jewelry auction

Published on April 29, 2023

Heidi Horten wearing a 63 cts emerald necklace. Copyright The Heidi Horten foundation

The largest jewelry auction with the largest shadow in history. The case was raised by the New York Times and concerns the Heidi Horten jewelry auction organized by Christie’s.
The sale, scheduled for May 10 and 12 in Geneva, includes 700 exceptional jewels, including India’s exceptional Briolette, a 90-carat diamond valued at nearly $8 million. The problem that has emerged in recent days is the origin of the wealth of the German Horten family. Helmut Horten, Heidi’s husband, allegedly had close ties to the Third Reich.

Heidi Horten wearing her important pearl necklace. Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation

Not only. He would have illicitly enriched himself by purchasing companies sold off at bargain prices by Jewish owners, forced to sell under threats. Heidi Horten, who died last year, was married at 19 to Helmut Horten, 30 years her senior. In the 1980s, Heidi inherited almost 1 billion dollars, also spent on collecting magnificent jewels. The expected proceeds from the Christie’s auction are estimated at over 150 million dollars. the record of 137 million established by the sale of Liz Taylor’s jewels in 2011 would be broken. The proceeds from the auction are destined for charity, in particular to a foundation in Vaduz in Switzerland which owns a museum in the heart of old Vienna, as well as to philanthropic initiatives in the medical field. But that hasn’t stopped the controversy.

Collana The Briolette of India di Harry Winston, con diamanti per 90 carati

The secret story

The problems are in the family history. Christie’s itself has admitted that Helmut Horten built his wealth by buying companies of Jews forced to sell by Hitler’s regime. Stephanie Stephan, daughter of a Jewish businessman on the board of an Amsterdam company that was Horten’s target during the Nazis, think philanthropic efforts aren’t reason enough to push through a sale based on these disputes origins of the family fortune. Stephan, a Munich-based journalist, cites the sworn statement of a colleague of his father, according to which Horten had threatened to deport the Jewish owners to concentration camps if they resisted the takeover.

Collana di perle nere naturali appartenuta a Heidi Horten

According to David de Jong, author of a book on German billionaires, Horten also laid the foundations for his wealth during the Third Reich by buying at a discount from Jews who were forced to sell out. For example, the Alsberg department store in Duisburg, bought for not even 65% of their real value. At the time Horten described the purchase in a Nazi Party magazine stating that the shop had passed into Aryan hands.

Heidi Horten wearing the Briollete of India, Copyright The Heidi Horten Foundation

Before she died, however, Heidi Horten had hired a scholar to investigate the family fortune. Research has confirmed that her husband benefited from buying Jewish businesses, but that the level of wealth achieved in this way should not be overstated. Christie’s, to fend off criticism, has pledged to turn over part of the proceeds to Holocaust research and education.

Collana di Bulgari con smeraldi, zaffiri e diamanti

Bulgari Laguna Blu, record diamond at Sotheby’s

Published on April 29, 2023

Il Bulgari Laguna Blu, diamante di 11,16 carati

The Blue Lagoon is the title of a 1980 film which marked the debut of Brooke Shields. About forty years later the same name returns to the fore: but this time Laguna Blu is the name of the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel, 11.16 carats, auctioned by Sotheby’s. According to the auction house, it will have its world premiere at the Met Gala in New York on May 1, before being displayed and sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Luxury Week from May 12. Estimated price: more than 25 million dollars. The gemstone was created in 1970 and has remained in the same collection ever since, in Europe. It is the first time it has been offered for sale.

Laguna Blu è il nome del più grande diamante blu in un gioiello Bulgari

The Bulgari Laguna Blu is an extraordinary jewel in every respect. At 11.16 carats, this unmodified pear-shaped blue diamond received the highest grade for a blue diamond from the Gemological Institute of America, recognizing its mesmerizing color and hue. This true marvel of nature was selected by Bulgari, the prestigious Roman jewelery Maison, over fifty years ago, to create a ring for a demanding private collector, who has kept it ever since. The Bulgari Laguna Blu diamond is destined to become every collector’s dream object and we are delighted that it will be presented for the first time on the ever-anticipated red carpet of the Met Gala.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

With the blue diamond Sotheby’s completes a trilogy of announcements for the sale of unique and extraordinary colored gemstones following the recent presentation of the Eternal Pink (estimate over 35 million), the most valuable purplish-pink diamond ever to appear at auction, and the Estrella de Fura 55.22 (estimate over 30 million), the largest ruby ever to hit the market, which will be the protagonists of the Magnificent Jewels auction at Sotheby’s in New York on June 8th.

One of the gem’s pluses is its weight of 11.16 carats, exceptional given that blue diamonds are among the rarest. The blue color is the result of the presence of the trace element boron within the carbon structure of the diamond during its formation deep in the earth’s core. Blue diamonds over 5 carats are rare, those over 10 carats even rarer. Any blue diamond qualified as Fancy Vivid, the most brilliant hue a diamond can display, over 10 carats is indeed extremely rare: Fewer than ten Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds over 10 carats have been auctioned anywhere in the world in the last few decades. , four of the sold by Sotheby’s.

Bulgari has mounted the Bulgari Laguna Blu in an elegant and essential ring, exposing all facets of the stone to their best vantage point, demonstrating the jeweler’s ability to maximize the intrinsic beauty of an exceptional diamond. The jewel has remained in the same family since its acquisition in the seventies. It has been seen by few. In the fifty years since the Blue Lagoon was faceted, diamond-cutting technology has advanced to further enhance colored diamonds by faceting them as modified brilliant cuts to increase the perceived saturation of the color. So this 1970 diamond could be even more brilliant.

La gemma è stata creata nel 1970 e da allora è rimasta nella stessa collezione, in Europa

In addition to the Bulgari Laguna Blu, the same client is offering for sale two other white diamonds signed Bulgari, from the same period in the early 1970s: a pear-shaped diamond weighing 12.08 carats (estimate 600,000-700,000 dollars), and a diamond step cut weighing 18.78 carats (estimate 900,000-1,400,000). Also on sale is a fourth stone signed Pederzani, a pear-shaped white diamond weighing 8.33 carats (estimate 350,000-500,000).

Sotheby’s currently sells the record price for a blue diamond for the De Beers Blue, a 15.10 step cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, the largest of its kind ever to appear at auction, sold in April 2022, Sotheby’s of Hong Kong for 57.5 million dollars.

Tiffany reopens in New York with Gal Gadot

Published on April 27, 2023

Il taglio del nastro con Alexandre Arnaul, Gal Gadot e Anthony Ledru

It took two years of work, but the famous Tiffany & Co. store on 57th Street and Fifth Avenue in New York has officially reopened. For the occasion, the American Maison which is now part of the French luxury giant LVMH organized an inauguration worthy of the occasion. The flagship store is now known as The Landmark and the ribbon cutting was entrusted to Gal Gadot, accompanied by Alexandre Arnault, executive vice president of products and communications of Tiffany, and Anthony Ledru, president and CEO of the Maison. The store is the first radical renovation of the store since it first opened its doors in 1940.

Anna Wintour all'interno dello store Tiffany — Anna Wintour all’interno dello store Tiffany

Guests at the event included Daniel Boulud, Shohei Shigematsu, Ayaka Miyoshi, Camila Queiroz, Amelie Zilber, Lala Rudge, Paola Locatelli, Heart Evangelista, Athena Calderone, Leonie Hanne, Alexander Galievsky, Carrie Wong, Amee, Henry Lau, Praya Lundberg, Zahirah MacWilson , Jane Chuck, Adinia Wirasti, Anne Curtis, Blake Gray, Helena Bordon, Kate Bock, Kelsey Merritt, Liv Judd, Anna Wintour.

Lo store sulla 57th Street e Fifth Avenue

L'interno del flagship di Tiffany a New York — L’interno del flagship di Tiffany a New York

Anne Curtis

Alexandre Arnault

Alexandre Arnault, Daniel Boulud, Anthony Ledru

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