da sapere — April 22, 2018 at 4:30 am

The jewelry in 10 steps





The 10 fundamental steps in the history of jewelry that you need to know. The first is… ♦ ︎
Long ago the Financial Times published an article which identified the 10 milestones of jewelery over the past two hundred years or so. The article starts from innovation in diamond cutting, with the introduction of fashion to bright, up to 3D printing. It is interesting the analysis, to don’t forget the history of the jewel.
1 Brilliant Cut
It was introduced in the late 17th century. After the eighteenth century, in baroque jewels, the brilliance of the stones aspect had become predominant. The brilliant cut was developed in the laboratories of Paris, Amsterdam and Antwerp, who produced the precursor to the contemporary, which today is the one chosen by 75 percent of the diamonds.
2 Electroplating
How do you make gold if you have not? Nothing philosopher’s stone: since 1840 gold and silver are applied using an electrolytic process, which has become a pillar of the production of affordable jewelry. It was the goal of a Birmingham surgeon, John Wright, who developed galvanic baths with potassium cyanide. Wright and his partners George and Henry Elkington, patented electroplating process, allowing you to apply a thin film of gold or silver on a regular jewel of other material , such as steel.
3 Tiffany setting
In 1886, Tiffany has invented the most popular ring among women: elevates the diamond above the ring circle through four or six claws, instead of being encased in metal. In this manner the diamond is seen much more. Since then the solitaire ring remains to be for only a very short: everyone wants it.
4 Platinum
At the end of the nineteenth century it spreads the use of platinum, a harder metal to work, but much more resistant than gold. Thanks to new techniques to treat the Cartier platinum can achieve a fine jewel like the tiara with a garland design.

Orecchini in platino e diamanti
Orecchini in platino e diamanti

5 Cultured pearls
Until 1905, the pearls were rare, because they were just those produced naturally by oysters. With variety Akoya, Kokichi Mikimoto is instead managed to get man-induced pearls. And the price has gone down.
6 Clip Earrings
In the thirties have spread earrings held by a small spring, as the use of the reaction in the ear hole, considered barbarous (it seems that it is no longer the case now).
7 Serti Mystérieux
It is an innovation of Van Cleef & Arpels: it use the technique to placed stones on the jewel without showing claws or other devices to immobilize the individual elements. Thin and invisible rails lead the stone into the desired position. Needless to add that it is not a simple task, though it has since been imitated by many other Maison.
8 Titanium
In the early sixties he comes in titanium. Even in this case is the technology that has allowed the most innovative jewelers like Jar of work this lightweight and durable metal, which allows you to make jewelry with bold shapes, impossible with more traditional alloys such as those with gold and silver.
9 3D Design
For the uninitiated, despite the films of the major brands continue to show artists with pen and colors and draw their own collections, the vast majority of jewelry is designed to the computer. This is due to the introduction, in the eighties, of 3D design, with a software called Cad. It’s a less poetic system of colored pencils, but much more efficient.
10 3D Print
For some years the border is 3D printing. Most initially it was made of plastic, but now you can also use the metal. After designing the jewelry, the path leads to the realization through special printers that instead of churning out the vacation photos, build by subtraction (ie carve the excess material), or by aggregation (adding gold dust or silver, kneaded) for rings, necklaces or bracelets.




1 Diamante taglio brillante
1 Diamante taglio brillante

2 Collana trattata parzialmente con galvanotecnica
2 Collana trattata parzialmente con galvanotecnica
3 Tiffany setting
3 Tiffany setting
4 Tiara Scroll in platino e diamanti di Cartier, 1910
4 Tiara Scroll in platino e diamanti di Cartier, 1910
5 Perle coltivate Akoya
5 Perle coltivate Akoya
6 Orecchini clip in platino e diamanti
6 Orecchini clip in platino e diamanti
7 Spilla Mystery set di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1968
7 Spilla Mystery set di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1968
8 Orecchini in titanio e vetro di Jar
8 Orecchini in titanio e vetro di Jar
9 Progettazione di un gioiello con software Cad
9 Progettazione di un gioiello con software Cad

10 Bracciale stampato in 3D di Monica Castiglioni
10 Bracciale stampato in 3D di Monica Castiglioni







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