Jewelery is a noble art. In some cases literally. As for Ashaha, a Parisian jewelry brand born in 2022 and the result of the creativity of Oumaima Benharbit, daughter of Princess Lalla Hasna of Morocco, the youngest daughter of King Hassan II and his wife Lalla Hasnaa. Ashaha’s is not an ethnic jewelry store, even if it is inspired by Berber culture. The Berber population lives in the Atlas Mountains, Sahara Desert and coastal regions of Morocco, with a history dating back 23,000 years. The Berbers also have their own special alphabet, which inspires Ashaha’s collections.
The jewels are made of gold, diamonds and semi-precious stones. Among all gems, opal is often used thanks to the charm of its complexity and the legends linked to this stone. One of Ashaha’s latest creations is the Arcadia collection, made in 18k gold with diamonds: it blends the vintage style of the seventies with a subtle mix of colors and diamonds, creating a sophisticated blend of retro heritage and contemporary flare.
The jewels are made of white, yellow and rose gold accompanied by pavé diamond inserts. The collection consists of pendants, single earrings, bracelets and rings. The collection is on sale on Ashaha.com and ranges from 1,550 to 6,000 dollars and an equivalent price in euros.
The Parisian style of Lise Vanrycke
Lise Ferreira Vanrycke is a young designer born in Paris, “in the heart of the 9 arrondissement”, she explains. But she has Portuguese blood in her veins: she is the daughter of a father from the Algarve, while her mother is from Aveiro, a city on the west coast of Portugal. Vanrycke is instead the name of her husband. Lise It has a very pleasant, linear, clean, modern style. But at the same time hot. Graduated in applied arts in the French capital, she had the ambition to become a painter or photographer. She instead she created the Vanrycke brand in 2000 after having participated in some shows, while she was taking her first steps in the world of jewelry.
After exhibiting the jewelry in a salon, she almost simultaneously received an order from Japan and she realized that her professional life would be in jewelry design. The designer feels very Parisian and so is her style: refined, cultured, rich. But also accessible. If you like them, her jewels, which are sold all over the world (in Paris, in particular, also at Bon Marché and Galeries Lafayette, but also at Harrods, in London), can also be found online.
The historic Vever brand returns in Paris
In Paris there is a new old Maison: Vever. New because it was just opened a couple of years ago in the Place Vendôme area by Camille and Damien Vever. Old because the founders are the heirs of Henri Jean Baptiste Eugène Vever (1854-1954), French jeweler, writer and art collector, protagonist of the Art Nouveau and Belle Epoque period. Camille Vever has chosen to enter the world of jewelry thanks to a brooch, obviously signed Vever, donated by her grandmother for her 16th birthday. After much deliberation, at the age of 40 she decided to leave the post of general manager of a biopharmaceutical company and enlisted one of his brothers.
The Maison founded by his grandfather had remained active until 1982. Now it receives a new impulse. But in a completely new situation from a century ago, Vever’s guidelines have also changed from the past. For example, the Maison has decided to use only recycled gold and synthetic diamonds to respect the environment. At its debut Vever presents two lines of high jewelery and fine jewelry: rings, necklaces and bracelets reflect two different aesthetics, one reminiscent of historical jewels with the use of enamel, Akoya pearls and baroque shapes, while another line is more modern with simple and soft shapes, alongside a more elaborate collection inspired by Ginko flowers.
Ina Lazarov’s unfenced creativity
Ina Lazarov isn’t the first woman to move from the desk of a finance firm to the jewelry design table. In this case, however, the Paris-based designer has a rather long curriculum: she worked in arbitrage and trading at the French bank Bred, in economic and raw materials analysis in the oil group Cma Cgm, in asset management for Bft Investment Managers and financial services for the Franco-German group Oddo Bhf. In short, a high-level career, which few can boast. But it would be wrong to imagine Ina Lazarov as a Wall Street wolf.
For example, she was a volunteer at the Isha Foundation, a non-profit spiritual organization founded in 1992 near Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India, by Sadhguru. It is no coincidence that the jewels that she designs often have a reference to the oriental world, such as the necklace from the Loto collection, with gold, diamonds, tanzanite and tourmaline. But, in addition to creating jewels, the designer has not lost her curiosity: her current passions are hydrogen (energy developed from hydrogen) and fintech (digital financial services).
It’s nice to take flight. Philippe Lauras has produced works for Maison such as Jar, Fred, Harry Winston, Van Cleef et Arpels, Marina Bulgari … At a certain point in his life, however, he rightly decided that he could also create something for himself: the designer has thus shows on the occasion of GemGèneve the fruit of his experience. They are jewels that reflect not only the technical and manufacturing skills, but also an aesthetic taste that is on par with that of the most famous Parisian brands. Bows and scrolls, weaves and ribbons made of gold and diamonds, or sapphires, emeralds, spinels and so on, are of high jewelery. The collection is called Falbala and comes from a work of imagination around a ribbon. Sometimes this ribbon is tied around the finger to form a ring full of volume and delicacy. Other times the knot forms an earring whose scrolls delicately adorn the face.
A track that Philippe Lauras has traveled starting from the Paris jewelry school (BJOP), combined with additional training in gemology, drawing, volume and modeling courses. In the early 1980s, all of this served to work with the two Parisian laboratories recognized for the creation of the most demanding and prestigious pieces of French and international jewelery. We have already mentioned the brands with which the designer’s skill has been tested.
With this experience, in 1995, Philippe Lauras created a workshop of his near Paris, positioned on the design of unique pieces for the big names in jewelry. He perfected himself in collaboration with Victoire de Castellane (Dior). And today he launches the first collection which, he explains, combines elegance and refinement. All jewels are obviously created and entirely handmade in the laboratory. The pieces are mobile, light, which help to set the jewels in motion, thus giving life to the jewels. The diamonds used are natural, D.E / VVS quality, guaranteed by the Kimberley international certification.
Manuel Bouvier’s past present
Do you like antique jewelry, but would you like them without flaws? Manuel Bouvier will take care of it. You can find it in the Swiss capital of jewelry, Geneva. Experience has accumulated a lot: he began his career working for Cartier in the High Jewelery department, and later for the Cartier Museum. He learned all about the golden age of jewelry, and also developed the pleasure of creating, also thanks to the collaboration with Marina Bulgari.
Present technique and taste for the past: now use the skills of craftsmen in Europe and India to create jewels that often use old and precious stones, or forgotten materials. The result is, for example, jade jewels of unusual shades, chalcedony in old fashion colors, opals, but also classic pieces in white gold and diamonds. Nothing that is in the latest fleeting fashion, therefore, but precisely for this absolutely fashionable that lasts. A jewelry as it was once done, starting from the material and focusing on forms that have made goldsmiths great in the past. For those who love to have the flavor of centuries on them.
Reviving the names of the great designers of the past is an operation that is often repeated. This is the case, for example, for Fulco di Verdura, or René Lalique. Now it is the turn of Oscar Massin, the great Belgian jeweler born in 1829. A new Maison, in fact, was born in Paris with the name of Oscar Massin, but made its debut in the United States. In the nineteenth century Oscar Massin the jeweler moved to Paris and worked as a jeweler in Place Vendôme. He also showed him his jewels at the famous Universal Exhibition in Paris, in 1867, and received the gold medal. He was, in short, a rival of the contemporaries Frédéric Boucheron and Louis-François Cartier.
Disappeared in 1895, Massin was forgotten. Until now. The new Maison that uses the jeweler’s name was founded by Frederic de Narp, CEO of Oscar Massin, (and former global CEO of Harry Winston), and by Sandrine de Laage, creative director, with Coralie de Fontenay, president (all two ex Harry Winston and Cartier). But with one big difference from the jeweler of the past: the Maison uses diamonds created in the Latitude laboratory, which it considers climate neutral (they are the first to meet the highest standards of environmental and ethical responsibility of SCS Global Services), together with gold and platinum. recycled. The brand has a link with Luximpact, a Luxembourg-based financial company that controls companies in the luxury sector, while among the investors there are also Kate Hudson and the stylist Rachel Zoe.
Given his legacy and spirit, if Oscar Massin were still around, he would most likely challenge the entire industry with an emphasis on innovation and sustainability. This is our inspiration and ambition for the brand.
Frederic de Narp
The style of Oscar Massin’s jewels wants to maintain a bond that characterized the Belgian jeweler. In particular, with the filigree frame. The gold threads that make up the jewels thus sometimes take on the appearance of a lace. A line of jewelry is called Filigree (filigree). The jewels have a price between one thousand and 30,000 euros.
Lo stile dei gioielli di Oscar Massin vuole mantenere un legame quello che caratterizzava il gioielliere belga. In particolare, con la montatura in filigrana. I fili di oro che compongono i gioielli assumono così, qualche volta, l’aspetto di un pizzo. Una linea di gioielli si chiama, appunto, Filigree (filigrana). I gioielli hanno un prezzo tra i mille e i 30.000 euro.
Le Soleil d’Or, super diamond signed by Fred
In the French group LVMH, the largest cluster of luxury brands, from Tiffany to Dior, from Bulgari to Chaumet (but the complete list would be very long) there is also Fred, a Maison with roots that go back to the 1930s. Although most of Fred’s jewelry can be qualified as fine jewelry, of moderate luxury, often with a sporty design like the best-known collection, Force 10, the brand is ready to unleash an exceptional hit: a large yellow diamond, called Soleil d’Or. The stone, which marked the history of the Maison, is now returning to Fred’s heritage, 44 years after its first presentation to the public.
It is a maxi stone: it weighs 101.57 carats and has a color classified as fancy intense yellow, which places it among the gems of great value. The Soleil d’Or diamond was named in 1977 by the founder, Henri Samuel. The gem will be visible to the public in the fall of 2022, in Paris, in a retrospective exhibition on the brand. Before its official presentation, almost half a century ago, the stone was the focus of a lunch attended by the press and some friends of the Maison, such as actress Margaux Hemingway, who was portrayed with the diamond. Cheerful note: Margaux Hemingway, while she handled the stone, pretended to lose it. After a few moments of chaos, the actress made her reappear between her teeth.
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Perhaps some jewelers experienced it as a provocation, who knows. But for a couple of years in Place Vendôme in Paris, the capital of high jewelery, there has been a new Maison specializing in jewelry with laboratory-grown, that is, synthetic diamonds. The brand has an equally provocative name: Courbet. It is the name of the French painter of the nineteenth century also famous for being the author of a painting, The origin of the world, which portrays a female sex in the foreground (today it causes less scandal, but then it was a shock), Courbet, curiously , during the Paris Commune he was among the promoters of the destruction of the bronze column of Place Vendôme, considered an anti-pacifist monument (but it was later rebuilt).
The brand is headed by Manuel Mallen, who spent 20 years as a manager of Piaget and Baume & Mercier. The designer is the Swedish Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, former marketing manager in Europe for Procter & Gamble. The Courbet shop is located on the fifth floor of Cour Vendôme, just behind the square. The jewels have as their flag the label of sustainability, of an ethical product. In addition to lab grown diamonds, Courbet emphasizes the use of recycled gold. And not only from other jewels: it also uses gold present in obsolete computer and industrial material. While a very good mine produces only about 5 grams of gold per ton of ore, one ton of e-waste can contain up to 1 kilogram of yellow metal.
In short, jewelry with synthetic diamonds, a stone’s throw from the boutiques of Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Damiani, Piaget… the world is really changing.
Different jewels, a personal style, the search for a market niche: Pascale Monvoisin in Paris does not compete with the great Maisons of Place Vendôme, but follows her path. And so, considered he has decided to open a second boutique in the heart of the French capital, it seems that his work is appreciated. Pascale Monvoisin is one of those designers happily affected since childhood by the jewelry syndrome, a dangerous disease that causes those who suffer from it to open a company that produces rings, bracelets and earrings (we are joking). But the event that convinced him to take the step of founding his own brand was, he himself says, a trip to India.
Some years ago, in Jaipur, the jewelry and stone capital of Rajasthan, he bought a kilo of turquoises. And he immediately started designing jewelry. After that exploit, the source of inspiration completely changed: it was the photographs of Robert Mapplethorpe. Pascale Monvoisin’s jewels use gold and precious and semi-precious stones, but also unusual materials for fine jewelery, such as bakelite.
She have founded and run Igr London, an independent diamond and precious stone laboratory. She founded and directed Yeraua Diamonds, a diamond trading company. And finally, she founded a jewelry brand that bears her name: Thelma West. An intense journey, but it is not the only unusual aspect: Thelma West, in fact, is Nigerian, born in Lagos. And it is not often that a black woman makes her way into the selective world of precious stones and jewelry. Instead she did it, with understandable pride, and her jewels bounced off the pages of glossy magazines.
She, actually, had moved to London to study mechanical engineering. But she had to interrupt her studies and opted for a gemology course in Antwerp. And so, from the Belgian city she started the trading profession in the diamond market, until precious stones became the raw material for making high-end jewels. The stones, as is now customary, are guaranteed of ethical origin, while the jewels are created through an artisanal process and offered with a lifetime guarantee: a formula that has helped success.
But he hasn’t forgotten her roots: West donates a portion of every single sale to two causes in Nigeria: one for medical bills for children in hospitals and another for girls’ education through secondary school. And, of course, the designer knows that it is difficult for a woman with black skin to work in an environment like that of jewelry, even if she is confident in an improvement in perception.
Digital jewels with the Brafa 2021
As in 2020, unfortunately, the fairs continue to be postponed due to the covid. The Brafa in Bruxelles is no exception. just like many other events, it has opted for a digital edition. For 2021, therefore, the great fair dedicated to arts, antiques and special jewels, period or contemporary, takes place from Wednesday 27 to Sunday 31 January. Exhibitors registered for Brafa 2021 hope that their galleries in digital format will be able to give an idea of their offer: it is not easy, however, since the objects lose some of their charm when viewed only on a screen. But it is the only possible alternative.
In total in 2021 there are 126 art dealers from 13 countries and 37 cities. The invitation is to go to the various galleries or visit the web page of each exhibitor where you can find photos and descriptions of the objects presented. As mentioned, there is no shortage of jewels, such as those of the Nardi jewelry in Venice. Bernard Bouisset, jeweler from Béziers (France) presents a ring with a large fancy yellow diamond. There are also other jewels such as those signed by prestigious Maison such as Van Cleef & Arpels, to historical designers such as René Boivin. Federico Graglia
Boom for online jewelry shopping
The news concerns the jewelry market in the United States, but it seems clear that it is the sign of a global trend, albeit probably with different proportions in the different countries of the globe. During the Christmas period, online sales of jewelry were record-breaking, according to Mastercard. The company that manages one of the most popular credit card payment circuits has made it known that in the US, in general, excluding cars from the count, on average sales during the period preceding the holidays (11 October to 24 December) increased by 3%. But online shopping has grown much more: by 49% compared to 2019.
In total, sales through e-commerce platforms accounted for 19.7% of overall retail sales, up from 13.4% in 2019. Admittedly, covid restrictions have helped drive online sales. , but the data remains. Overall sales (online and in-store) of jewelry fell by 4.3% compared to the previous year, but almost half (44.6%) were concluded online. During this period, in short, almost one in two Americans bought jewelry from their smartphone or computer. Not to mention that luxury goods, excluding jewelery, fell overall by 21.1% and, therefore, the performance of the jewelery sector is even more evident.
Luxury jewelry? Vivrelle lends them to you
Would you like to show off a Bulgari jewel, but you don’t have enough money to buy it? Or maybe you prefer Van Cleef & Arpels? Or, again, by Cartier? In the United States they found the solution: it’s called Vivrelle. The idea is of Wayne and Blake Geffen and it is very simple: a club that offers those who sign up the opportunity to wear luxury brands. For now, the service is reserved for the US, but the founders plan to extend it to other countries. By the way: in addition to jewelry, Vivrelle also offers bags, clothes and other designer products. The idea was liked, also because it allows you to easily change wardrobes and jewelry.
It works like this: club membership costs a minimum of $ 99 a month, or 199 or 279. In the first case (Classique), you can borrow one item per month with an estimated retail value of less than $ 4,000. With the second option (Couture) you can borrow one item per month worth more than $ 4,000, including rare, unique and limited edition pieces. The third possibility increases the loan to two objects at a time: one piece from the Classique wardrobe and one object from the Couture wardrobe.
One of the most successful aspects is that borrowed clothes or jewelry can be kept for as long as desired. Shipping costs are included in the subscription. The list of jewelry brands in the catalog, which can be browsed online, includes Stephanie Gottlieb, Cartier, Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels, Ermete, Chanel, Tiffany, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, as well as a series of necklaces, rings and bracelets with diamonds made available directly by Vivrelle.
His jewels are reminiscent of the romantic atmospheres of the mid-nineteenth century, between devices to scan the sky, mechanical dolls, the first scientific laboratories: Elie Top has the merit of offering a type of refined, completely different jewelry, intended for a select few. Who, in any case, knows how to appreciate his creations that use the principles of mechanics applied to jewelry. His idea is to make jewelry that can be placed in the past as well as in the future. He did it.
The first steps in the world of work, however, took them in the fashion sector, after studying at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris. At 19, the internship at Yves Saint Laurent, alongside the legendary designer Jean-Paul Knott and then with Alber Elbaz. Switched to Lanvin, he started to design the jewels of the fashion brand, then to Baccarat and Roger Vivier. In 2015 the jump with the jewelry line that bears his name and new life as an independent jewelry designer.
But, above all, with an unmistakable style: he uses 18-karat gold and aged silver to make jewels that seem to have come out of a mysterious laboratory, and that contain moving parts, such as the Sphère Rings, with metal bubbles that open and close and reveal pearls , diamonds, onyxes.
Ma, soprattutto, con uno stile inconfondibile: utilizza oro 18 carati e argento invecchiato per realizzare gioielli che sembrano usciti da un laboratorio misterioso, e che contengono parti mobili, come gli Anelli Sphère, con bolle metalliche che si aprono e si chiudono e rivelano perle, diamanti, onici.
Mathon, Parisian jewelry founded in the seventies by the goldsmith artist Roger Mathon, proposes to another artist, Emeline Piot, to design a collection of jewelry. This is not just any collection, but a series of jewels that are the result of the particularly intense collaboration between Emeline Piot and the artisans of the Atelier Mathon. These are very elaborate jewels, with a style that for some reason recalls art nouveau, but also oriental art. Bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings are certainly different from the usual ones and are also looking for women capable of wearing them: they are not jewelry for everyone.
The themes of inspiration for the jewels are animals and plants, but without any idea of representing natural elements. Rather, they are a rich elaboration of the original subject. The materials used are top quality with a large choice of gems, such as red and orange spinel, black cabochon spinels, Paraíba tourmalines, blue sapphires, GVS diamonds, emeralds.
The new jewelry signed by Robert Procop and Angelina Jolie at GemGèneve. Profits from the sale of the collection for an NGO ♦ ︎
The jewels of Angelina Jolie arrive in Geneva. Or, better, the Style of Jolie collection, born from the collaboration between the jeweler Robert Procop. In fact, the designer is one of the 100 participants at GemGenève, the event dedicated to exclusive gems and jewelery (10 to 13 May at the Geneva Palaexpo). The feeling between the actress and the designer was born in 2012, when the jeweler from Beverly Hills collaborated with Angelina Jolie to create a collection with the aim of donating funds to the association co-founded by the actress, The Education Partnership for Children of Conflict. The NGO has as its goal the construction of schools and provide education for children in areas with conflicts. Both Procop and Angelina Jolie have declared to donate 100% of the profits of the collection for the noble cause.
The jewels of the collection are, in fact, among the novelties in the program of GemGèneve, in addition to the pieces of the high-end line. The collection includes unique creations with exceptional Colombian emeralds and jewels with tourmalines, green beryls and citrines. Giulia Netrese
In France a giant of the jewerly was born
In France, a giant of jewelery was born (yet it is little known): Marcel Masson Robbez acquires Christian Bernard ♦
Every now and then a news coming from the world of economics closely affects the world of jewels. The news is this: Marcel Masson Robbez becomes the first French manufacturer of high-end jewelery. He bought Christian Bernard from Evry’s Court of Commerce. The new group will have a turnover of around 100 million euros. Marcel Masson Robbez is headquartered in Lozère, Occitania (South East France) and Christian Bernard (based in Paris) are the country’s leading jewelry makers, retailers and wholesalers. Christian Bernard was in trouble after sales fell from 150 to 50 million euros. In return, Marcel Masson Robbez has a fully automated production system, which allows you to send up to 1,500 jewelery boxes per day.
The transaction was supported by the Consolidation Fund and Company Development, which in June will become a minority shareholder in Marcel Robbez Masson, with a contribution of 15 million in equity, such as Part of a funding round of 40 million. Of the banks, there were another 25 million. “The trend in jewelery is concentration. We are currently studying other acquisition goals,” predicted Frank Robbez-Masson, company ceo.
The acquired group has 200 employees in France. Abroad, Marcel Robbez Masson, who had manufacturing sites in Morocco and Portugal, employs one thousands of workers in Vietnam. Marcel Masson Robbez has 3,000 customers in France, including watchmakers, jewelers and goldsmiths in the premium jewelery segment. It also has a network of 25 franchise boutiques and will open an office in Hong Kong by the year. Federico Graglia