Art Déco, one of the inexhaustible trends of jewelry, was also adopted four years ago by Roberto Coin. Art Déco has become one of the brand’s best-loved collections worldwide. Its retro-contemporary design has led Netflix and its authors to present the collection in the second season of the television series Emily in Paris. The Art Déco collection, therefore, was appreciated and now comes back in a mini version. Smaller dimensions, same design, and some novelties in the materials used, such as the addition of carnelian and lapis lazuli mixed with turquoise, malachite, black jade and mother of pearl from the original collection. In addition to being smaller, the jewels of the Art Déco Mini collection are also lighter than previous models.
One of the novelties in the design is, for example, the 18-karat rose gold ring with lapis lazuli, black jade, malachite, turquoise, red agate, mother-of-pearl and diamonds. The stones are cut into rectangular tiles and alternate along the entire perimeter of the ring. There is also a version with a tassel, also in gold: a detail that characterizes the entire Art Déco collection.
Vintage jewelry guide
Vintage jewelry are liked more and more, but before choosing them you need to know their characteristics well. Here are the advice of the gemologist of the Catawiki online auction house ♦
What vintage ring choose? She will like it? Or: how to let him know what I like? The first rule is to go on the classic. The second, is to follow the trend. And, in this key, there’s the advice of the of Catawiki, an online auctions company. According over the company, there would be (better to use the conditional) an increase in the purchase of antique rings. Could be. But, in any case, the rings in a style of yesteryear have always had estimators and admirers.
The auction house, therefore, has seen fit to ask Deborah Mazza, gemologist and herald of Catawiki, a comment: “Over the past decade there has been a significant change compared to what users are looking for when choosing a engagement ring. The trends show a move away from the classic-style rings, like the solitary bought in upscale jewelers, and now you try something that does not fall in the ordinary, why the vintage rings have become very popular and in demand. But this implies having to do a search to select an object and vintage, to avoid that the future remains disappointed bride, you have to consult a gemologist, who can guarantee the quality and the ring came from. Everything else depends on personal taste.”
Adds Louise Baltruschat Hollis, head of the known site for weddings Whimsical Wonderland Weddings: “For some couples, marriage is undoubtedly the most important day of their lives. For this, it’s no wonder that everything is being done to make this day memorable. Today’s brides are opting for something custom, chic festival ceremonies in the woods, and this desire to have something unique also depends on the choice of ring. ”
So here’s a brief guide to the rings in the style of the past.
Victorian. It is a ring for those who love the colors. Very often, in fact, the Victorian ring mount colored gemstones rings including garnets, emeralds and sapphires, why the rings of this time period are the ideal choice when looking for an alternative to the classic solitaire diamond. “Typically, when you opt for colored gemstones, there is a tendency to choose rings with sapphire due to its wear resistance, and it was been Kate Middleton to launch this trend” continues the gemologist. “For those looking for something unusual but colorful and durable, however, I would suggest finding a ruby. Rubies have an incredible strength, second only to diamonds and half the price, so it is no surprise that there has been a sharp increase in demand.”
Art Nouveau. They are the antithesis to the simplicity of a traditional solitaire. The Art Nouveau-style rings are characterized by their shape. A native of the early twentieth century, the Art Nouveau style is known for intricate designs and rich in details and curves, making a bold choice for brides. Are rich in history and romance have details. Often they possess many grafted colored stones in a delicate style but complex.
Art Deco. This style has gained popularity in the twenties and thirties, with designs are characterized by a sharp angles and geometric style that represent a break with the previous period style. They are back in fashion thanks to movies as The Great Gatsby.
Antique Tiffany & Co. For some women who only want excellence, the only choice is a vintage Tiffany & Co. The American house produces engagement rings since 1837, and although they tend to have a classical style by buying a vintage piece can ensure a unique touch to feel out of the ordinary and wear a piece of history.
The Feelings of Nikos Koulis
Nikos Koulis is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers. Awarded, praised, sought after: his collections are a personal evolution that has its roots in art deco, but with a good dose of contemporaneity. Witness the classic collection entitled Feelings, which is renewed and re-proposed with new and surprising pieces. The jewels use a particular snake chain in yellow gold, which can be manipulated, curving it or knotting it in different shapes. Alongside the gold of the chain there is also a classic by Nikos Koulis, diamonds of different cuts aligned to form geometric figures and black enamel.
More rarely, however, together with the soft chains of the Feelings collection, Koulis also uses emeralds and blue sapphires. The collection includes many earrings, but also bracelets, necklaces and rings. The gold is mainly yellow, but with some white gold details. The closures of the necklaces are snap hooks. The jewels are handmade in Athens, where the designer’s boutique is also located.
The vintage jewelry of today with Jenna Blake
Designing jewelry in Los Angeles today. Jewels of yesterday. Or, rather, that they have a slightly vintage flavor. This is what Jenna Grosfeld, who founded her brand Jenna Blake, does. The designer, wife with three children of the financier and real estate developer Jason Grosfeld, has decided to develop her passion for the jewels of the past: she has been collecting vintage jewels for years and draws inspiration from there. Of course, her jewels are not copies, but new interpretations of some shapes which, according to her, are particularly creative. She loves, above all, art deco and French jewels from the 1940s such as those by Bucheron and René Boivin.
She has been doing this for 15 years now, creating modernized interpretations of classic designs. They are jewels, explained the designer, which do not follow the fashion of the moment, but are destined to last over time. In short, Jenna Blake jewels present themselves as the antithesis of trendy. They are those to be left as an inheritance or, in any case, to be worn throughout life. The style is a mix of all these ideas: very art deco, some pendants that seem almost from the early decades of the twentieth century, gold, diamonds and semi-precious stones such as malachite.
How much does investing in vintage jewelry make?
According to the British auction house Bonhams, there is a treasure in your drawers: vintage jewelery has appreciated more than any other good ♦
Investing in jewels, provided you keep them for a long time, can be a bargain. The British auction house Bonhams claims it. According to an analysis conducted some time ago by the auction company, vintage jewelry has gained more than 80 percent in value over the past ten years. Yet, most of the owners of these jewels don’t fully realize it. Jewelery from the Art Deco period (1920s and 1930s), as well as pieces dating back to the Belle Epoque (1890-1915), have increased in value by 88 percent over the past decade. And post-war jewelry has gone up 70 percent in value. The auction house also makes the comparison with another capital asset: your own home.
In Great Britain, for example, average house prices have increased by 47 per cent over the same period considered. And in other countries, such as Italy, in the same period there was even a drop in property prices, even if they are now recovering. Attention: the increase in value of vintage jewels works for quality jewels, certainly not for jewels of unknown brands or uncertain workmanship. Maisons like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, for example, according to Bonhams are a guarantee of value that is preserved over time, even if sometimes the jewels are without labels. Therefore, it is advisable to carefully preserve the inherited jewels, even if they seem out of date. They could be of substantial value, although not all period jewelry is truly valuable.
Jean Ghika, head of the jewelery sector for the United States and Europe of Bonhams, also gave an example: that of an elderly lady who thought she had a useless piece of jewelery in her drawer, but which turned out to be a rare Chanel necklace designed by Coco Chanel herself. The necklace was appraised by Bonhams (who spotted a small engraved Chanel name) and sold for $83,188, based on a pre-sale estimate of $4,858-7,287. You better start looking in your drawers right away: maybe there is a treasure.
If you want to buy a vintage jewel as an investment, however, you must not choose at random. A vintage or period jewel is not necessarily something that is revalued over time. It is necessary to carefully evaluate the quality of the jewel, if it is worn, if it has damaged or worn elements, if it has precious gems. Another factor that greatly influences is the origin, which must be certified. Finally, it must be taken into account that a vintage jewel is more likely to increase its value if it was made by a large Maison, or if it was designed by famous jewelers or designers.
Much of the purchase of vintage jewelry is done through auctions. Often jewels of great value come up for auction and it is not uncommon for interesting prices to be found. But that’s not always the case. First of all, it is likely that those who trade in jewelry and are experts in the vintage market have already set their sights on the most interesting pieces and are willing to spend more. You also have to consider that the prices established during an auction must be supplemented by the mark-up for the auction house that organized the sale. Taxes must be added, if provided for by local laws, and above all the auction fees which vary but can even reach 25% of the clearing price. An aspect to take into account before buying a vintage jewel at auction.
The new Art Dèco by Roberto Coin
Art Deco is about to turn one hundred years old. The name, in fact, is the abbreviation for Arts Décoratifs, and it is a style that appeared for the first time in France shortly before the First World War, but which officially took its name from the International Exhibition of Decorative and Industrial Arts held in Paris in 1925. Despite this, the art deco style is in excellent health, as demonstrated by the jewelry line launched a few years ago by Roberto Coin, which continues to be renewed.
The collection of the Italian jeweler has recorded a good success and that is why the Maison has fed the catalog with always new variations. The jewels are made with the typical materials of the brand: yellow and pink gold, black jade, mother of pearl, deep blue lapis lazuli, malachite and turquoise, with the addition of pieces with white diamonds. The long necklaces with pendants, the new multicolored rings and the tassel-shaped earrings are the new entries of the collection.
How to recognize Art Deco jewelry
Art Deco style jewels were the protagonists of the 1920s and 1930s, but have been rediscovered by the great Maison. Can you recognize an Art Deco ring or necklace? Here is a quick guide to the Roaring Twenties ♦ jewelry
Jewelry that was fashionable a century ago is still in fashion today. Jewelry at that time was sparkling, decadent and at the same time poignant. The geometric designs, the accent on clear shapes, often flat colors, with an architectural and classic style at the same time, have made Art Déco jewels timeless pieces. And not only do they like the original ones, made in those years by the great Maison, but that style is continually a source of inspiration for contemporary designers.
Mix of shapes
Like a sparkling cocktail, the jewels of the twenties were an intoxicating mixture of inspirations and influences. A bridge between the stylization of the Ballets Russes that excited Paris and the emotion of the Jazz Age: speed, race, the rhythm of the machine, Cubism, African art, oriental exoticism. These influences have also reverberated on the creations of luxury and design. A style that ended up going down in history as Art Deco, after 1925 Paris ExpositionInternationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The role of Cartier This style has a slow evolution. He had also been training for the work of Cartier, who around 1910 began to have a greater stylization of the floral motifs, with compositions composed of small carved gems. Like the series known as Tutti-frutti, a riot of emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires. Now these jewels are among the most sought after, thanks to the most typical features of Cartier’s Art Deco pieces. Perhaps not everyone knows, among other things, that the idea of this design was influenced by Indian jewelry, thanks to Cartier’s relations with a maharajah who arrived in Paris to make the traditional jewels of his country, but revisited in a modern style. The combination of blue and green, based on traditional Indian enamel work, and techniques such as jewelry-sculpture, played a vital role in the development of Cartier’s Art Deco jewelry.
Even today this style like it
An All-Fruit bracelet from Cartier was sold for $ 1.4 million from Sotheby. But the most famous example of the style is the Collier Hindou, created by Cartier in 1936 for Daisy Fellowes, heiress of the Singer sewing machine company and obsessive jewelry collector. In Van Cleef & Arpels the same Daisy Fellowes in 1926 and 1928 commissioned a pair of Indian-inspired bracelets (or anklets): they were conceived as a deep band of diamonds arranged in a geometric pattern, reminiscent of a Persian rug, with a luxuriant fringe of emerald drops.
New cuts and exoticism
In this period the stones were often cut into small squares or oblong rectangles, combined with an elegant design, with moldings, roundings or cabochons. As in the famous bracelets with an Egyptian style frieze by Arpels, in which the scenes are drawn with impeccable cut colored gems. Even Cartier was not immune to the Egyptian vein, which was part of the climate of exoticism that has expanded to the Persian, Chinese and Japanese designs, which began in the early twentieth century. In some cases the Cartier jewels have even used, incorporating them, fragments of antiquities from the past, such as Egyptian scarabs or amulets. From this exoticism also come the bold combinations of colors, which are a surprising feature of Art Deco jewelry: the mix of blue and green, sapphires with emeralds, turquoise with lapis, the contrast of coral and onyx, or coral with emeralds, diamonds and onyx.
Live the monochrome
In the mid-1920s a change of pace, an alternative mood, with monochromatic colors and black and white compositions, arrived instead. In 1925 Tiffany proposed a ring with an onyx surface, in black segments, and diamonds. A scheme that was favored by the great talent of the designer Suzanne Belperron, in her work with Bernard Herz. The Belperron synthesized in a certain sense the new woman of the years between 1920 and 1930. Her jewels, like all the most beautiful Art Deco pieces, were beyond the fashion of the moment, which had adopted appropriate shapes to the new silhouette feminine, that is, less designed clothes for the “curve to them” of the Edwardian woman. In those years the clothes are instead proposed with a streamlined line, with a cylindrical, tubular, short, sleeveless shape. Maybe with fringes, beads or sequins for the dance, while the hairstyles go to the garçonne, with the short haircut, which brings out long earrings.
Change the horizon
The design of the twentieth-thirties jewel was generally vertical. The pins had long pins, the jabot or double-headed cliquet, worn perhaps in a corner of the unusual dress, on the belt, on the cloche hats, near the neckline. And the necklaces were generally sautoir, that is, long and loose strands of beads, often with a sensual bow at the end. For the great heiresses and worldly like Daisy Fellowes, Mrs. Harrison Williams or Barbara Hutton, these fabulously modern and daring jewels were part of their personality. Yet, those who were then daring designs, have become classics. Giulia Netrese
Roberto Coin from jewelry shop windows to television screens. However, it is not the Venetian jeweler who appears in a Netflix series, but a special series from his Art Deco collection. It is a new version of the collection, with turquoise and diamonds, which has become part of the second season of Emily in Paris, a very successful series. It is the story of the loves, friendships and sentimental adventures of Emily Cooper, a young Chicago girl who works in marketing and public relations, who moves to France to assist a small boutique agency in the heart of the city.
For the second season, Roberto Coin’s Art Deco collection was chosen, which is also one of the brand’s best-selling collections. The collection incorporates the zigzag lines, pointed corners and soft tassels, elements that characterize the style between the thirties and forties. The fringes add an extra touch that makes the jewelry even small pastimes to play with.
Doryn Wallach, Manhattan art deco style
New York-style Art Deco jewelry of rising designer Doryn Wallach, with her novelties ♦
Doryn Wallach was recently named Emerging Designer of 2016 by Centurion Jewelry and entered among the “rising stars” chosen by Jck in Las Vegas. And in 2017 she made his debut at Couture. And to say that she had specialized as an interior designer. Houses, apartments, furniture were his first interest: she, in fact, studied interior design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.
Then, he discovered the jewelry. In any case, his first interest transpires on the type of style that Doryn chose: geometric, with a stated preference for the art deco. Almost as necklaces, bracelets and rings were small luxury furnishings to wear. One way of interpreting the decidedly modern jewelry. She lives and works in New York and as a newyorker she is attracted by the atmosphere of his city, full of contrasts: perhaps this is why in his jewels are intersecting lines, unusual stones, with amazing texture. She use, for example, gold satin with a white or black diamond, onyx, agate, turquoise, red coral, pearls, sapphires and emeralds, but strictly separated into different jewelry.
Collectible jewelry sold online by Christie’s
The hunters of vintage jewels, of great Maison, of prestigious pieces, point their binoculars on 21 June, the starting date of an online sale of Christie’s, which will last until 5 July. By now high jewelery auctions online have become a habit and it is not surprising that with one click you can buy pieces of great value. In this case, the top lot of the sale is a Jean Fouquet necklace from 1925, which had been lost since its creation. It is a museum piece that will appeal to collectors and jewelry lovers: it represents the best example of the creation of modernist jewelry influenced by the art movement of the UAM (association of French artists of the time) of which the Fouquet family was part. Furthermore, in 1925, Jean Fouquet received the award at the Exhibition of Decorative and Industrial Arts, an important event for the Art Deco period. The necklace symbolizes the transition from fine jewelry to sculptural jewelry, juxtaposing geometric shapes. It is made of white gold and silver, with the striated disc of the necklace that evokes the work of the painter Fernand Léger, entitled Les disques de la ville (1918). The stone is an aquamarine.
For Art Deco enthusiasts, the auction also offers a Cartier Jabot brooch with Colombian emeralds and diamonds, estimated at 30,000-40,000 euros. Two pretty brooches from the famous Tutti Frutti collection are by Cartier, some of the most sought-after jewels: the estimate is 30,000-40,000 euros. Also by Cartier is a bracelet made with sapphires, turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamonds (40,000-80,000 euros).
There is no shortage of diamonds in the online sale: a 17.47-carat antique-cut stone, mounted on a Boucheron ring is estimated at 420,000-550,000 euros. Another diamond is a 4.29 carat fancy vivid yellow (60,000-80,000 euros). A large 7.83-carat diamond pendant is estimated at 140,000-160,000 euros. Also in the online sale there are sapphires, rubies and emeralds. In particular, a Kashmiri sapphire on a Cartier ring is estimated at 60,000-80,000 euros), while a large 53-carat Ceylon sapphire has a valuation of 40,000-60,000 euros and a 29-carat sapphire mounted on a Van diamond crown. Cleef & Arpels is estimated at 100,000-200,000 euros. Finally, the sale also includes an important collection of Bulgari jewels, with several pieces from the Monete collection, such as a gold necklace in antique silver, an iconic jewel of the Italian brand.
From the world of fashion in Paris and London to the world of jewelry in New York: the flight across the Atlantic Ocean was carried out by the French designer Caroline Denis, who in 2017 founded the Jolly Bijou brand in Brooklyn, where she lives and produces the his jewels. After 15 years of working with brands such as Saint-Laurent and Chloé, where she was responsible for image and visual identity, Caroline flew with her husband and children to the United States. First she went back to school at the Gemological Institute of America. Then, she put her experience and her new skills to good use.
From France, however, she brought with her the taste for Art Déco in a modern version, used for her collections of 14-karat gold jewelry, with an abundance of gems such as tourmalines and colored sapphires, tsavorites and topazes, which are aligned to compose lines straight lines and broken circles: geometric shapes that, thanks to the colored stones, are very cheerful. Her jewelry is handmade in New York.
Queen Victoria’s jewels at Sotheby’s auction
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Years pass, but the British nobility continues to exert a charm that encourages the many television series, from Downton Abbey to The Crown. Or it manifests itself with an interest in auctions of objects and jewels linked to the English court. An example of this is the auction to be held on 24 March, at Sotheby’s, in London. The sale will offer fine pieces from two legendary families, with over 350 lots ranging from jewelry, furniture, paintings, sculptures, Chinese art, silver, ceramics and art objects.
Precious goods from the second Countess Mountbatten of Burma, great-granddaughter of Queen Victoria, and also great-granddaughter of the last Russian tsarina, first cousin of Prince Philip and daughter of the last viceroy of India of Great Britain, will therefore be on sale. And, as well, third cousin of Queen Elizabeth. Patricia Edwina Victoria Mountbatten, born in 1924, was known and remembered for her “unwavering perseverance and seductive sense of humor” during her lifetime in the heart of the British cultural establishment. Patricia then married John Knatchbull, seventh Lord Brabourne. She passed away in 2017.
The auction, among the many precious objects, also includes Queen Victoria’s mourning jewels. The value, in this case, is given above all by history. Always wore in black, for the death of her husband Alberto in 1861, the queen wore mourning brooches, buttons and pendants. Jewels that, in the various intersections of the family tree, have reached Countess Mountbatten. They consists of an onyx and pearl button with a miniature portrait of Princess Alice, an agate and pearl pendant with a lock of hair engraved “from grandma VR” and an enamel and diamond cross brooch, with a heart of onyx in the center with the word Alice under a crown. The fourth jewel is an agate and diamond pendant, commissioned by Prince Albert himself shortly before his death, to commemorate Queen Victoria’s mother, Princess Victoria of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld, Duchess of Kent.
In any case, the auction also offers other types of jewelry for sale. For example, a series of art deco jewels All Fruits. The style, which emulated multicolored gems from India (her father, Lord Mountbatten, was the last viceroy) had a special place in the heart of the countess. Countess Mountbatten’s necklace features a crown of carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires accented with diamonds and sapphire pearls. Also art deco is a 1929 bracelet with octagonal links in rock crystal, diamonds and emeralds for sale by Hennell, a jeweler who at the time was the British rival of Cartier and Boucheron.
Among the jewels, there are also two diamond brooches considered unisex: a Maltese diamond cross, a symbol of protection, and a circular brooch, also set with diamonds in a wave pattern. They were a gift to countess by her father, Louis Mountbatten.
A banker with a passion for jewels. Andrew Glassford goes to the office each morning, where he occupies a prominent position: he is vice president and risk manager for small business credit at Bank of America, the banking giant of the United States. But three years ago he discovered that money isn’t everything. There is also a passion for jewelry: for years, he says, he has cut out photos of rings, bracelets and necklaces from newspapers, fascinated by design. And so, after attending the École Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris and learning about the opportunities and pitfalls of gems at Gia, she founded her Maison in Dallas, Texas. An unusual profile, but Glassford with his second job was able to convince everyone.
In addition to his passion for jewelry and his poodle named Mack II, Andrew loves orchids and is an enthusiast of the Asian world, after a recent trip to China and Japan. But for his jewels he seems to have a strong predilection for art deco, with precise lines, safe geometries, enamel that separates gold and precious stones. Who would have thought that a banker could have such a profound aesthetic sensibility?
Sharp or very rounded: these are the jewels of Kavant & Sharart, between Thailand and the United States ♦ ︎
Thailand is a special land where jewels grow like wild berries. In short, it is one of the countries in the world where the art of jewelery thrives and multiplies. One of the fruits is represented by the couple composed of Shar-Linn and Kenny, close-knit both in life and profession. And there is a resaon why the Kavant & Sharart brand is also distributed outside of Thailand, in many American cities.
It must be said that diffusion also depends on his style, not at all oriental. Indeed, contaminated by the art deco genre and with sharp geometries, or very soft. Two opposing aspects that are always brought to the limit. Since the launch of the brand in 2011, Kavant & Sharart jewels have been worn by celebrities such as Katy Perry, Hilary Duff, Adriana Lima, Miranda Lambert and Gabrielle Union. And they also won an award at the 2016 Couture Show.
The very western style stems from the fact that Shar-Linn and Kenny met in 2004 at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. Kenny grew up in a jewelry store, with a jeweler father and a goldsmith grandfather. After graduation, the couple moved to California, but today the two live and work between Bangkok and Singapore.
Art deco is one of the styles most used by jewelers, as evidenced by the historic collection of Roberto Coin. Perhaps not everyone knows that the name is a synthesis of Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes, an event which was held in Paris in 1925 and which gave birth to this style that enhances geometric shapes. A fashion that, in particular, was in vogue in America until 1940. And that left deep traces in the world of jewelry.
Launched a few years ago with a good reception from the public, the Roberto Coin Art Deco collection has continued to renew that style made of zigzag lines, wide curves, pointed corners and soft tassels. The latest pieces have only been presented recently, but more or less every year the Venetian Maison adds some novelties. These are rings that do not go unnoticed, with tassels and inserts of black jade, malachite, mother of pearl and diamonds. Last year rings, earrings and pendants were added with diamonds and malachite or fossil coral: an unusual material, which presents on the surface like small inflorescences. Art Deco, in short, but completely original.
The Art Deco by Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin’s Art Deco collection reworks the style born a century ago in Paris ♦ ︎
There are fads fleeting like winter snow. They are fashions, indeed. But there are also styles that are planted in the memory like the fences of a garden that everyone wants to visit. Time passes and the flowers of that garden continue to fascinate lovers of beauty. Art Deco falls into this category. Not everyone knows that the name derives from the Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes which was held in Paris in 1925. Since then a century has passed, but the style was baptized on that occasion, and has influenced decorative, visual arts, architecture and fashion, continues to be revisited. And jewelry is no exception.
The last tribute to that taste that combines rigorous geometries with the pleasure of decoration is signed by Roberto Coin. The new collection presented at VicenzaOro is called, precisely, Art Deco and connects the vintage atmosphere with a modern and contemporary design. Precious stones and gold alternate in square or round shapes, without the reference to a style of the past compromising its freshness. Alongside gold, white or pink, jewels use a wide variety of stones, such as diamonds, tourmalines, malachite, rubies, amethysts, garnets, tanzanites, citrines, mother-of-pearl, black jade …
An Art Deco emerald necklace sold for $ 3.6 million was the star of the Sotheby’s auction in Geneva ♦ ︎
A record for Art Deco jewels and a record for antique jewels. The Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction organized by Sotheby’s in Geneva ended with sales of over 42 million dollars. They found an owner 80% of the proposed pieces and 60% with prices higher than the starting estimate.
The star of the auction was an art deco necklace created in the 1930s for Hélène Beaumont (1894 – 1988), an American socialite friend of the Duchess of Windsor. The necklace of emeralds and diamonds was sold for 3.6 million dollars, more than double the price reached when it was first sold in auction in 1994. The series consists of a row of 11 Colombian emerald cabochons, of the total weight of over 75 carats, perfectly matched both in color and in proportions. These exceptional gemstones are combined with geometric diamonds in an Art Deco design. Although it is not signed, the jewel is attributed to Van Cleef & Arpels, as were many other pieces of his Beaumont collection. The central sections of emeralds and diamonds in the necklace can be detached and worn as bracelets.
Tonight we saw the enduring appeal of outstanding Art Deco jewellery. The Beaumont necklace is “the Chrysler building of jewellery”, instantly recognisable as an Art Deco masterpiece, and in my opinion, the greatest emerald and diamond necklace of the period. I had the privilege to sell it a quarter of a century ago and achieving this landmark result tonight is a further testament to its absolute and timeless beauty.
David Bennett, president of Sotheby’s Worldwide Jewelery
In addition to the Beaumont necklace, a Fabergé diamond tiara was sold for over $ 434,000 (the maximum was 300,000). The diadem was made for the marriage of the last Prussian hereditary princess, the duchess Cecilie von Mecklenburg-Schwerin (1886-1954), on the occasion of her marriage to the crown prince William (1882-1951), son of Kaiser Wilhelm II , in Berlin, in June 1905.
In addition to the Beaumont necklace, the auction saw the success of other Art Deco jewels. A set of earrings with Colombian emeralds with a cushion weight of 17.0 and 17.71 carats respectively in Art Deco style were sold for $ 972,934. and a Cartier bracelet from 1933, with coral and diamonds, doubled the pre-sale estimate to $ 148,918.
Wallace Chan returns to the Tefaf
Wallace Chan returns to Maastricht’s Tefaf with some pieces out of the ordinary ♦ ︎
At the Tefaf in Maastricht (March 10th-18th, 2018) there are several names of jewelery designer in the catalog. And not just vintage jewelry by great Maison, like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, but also from contemporary designers. In addition to Hemmerle, for example, the master Wallace Chan also returns to the great Dutch art fair, antiques and design.
Read also: The jewels of Tefaf
Wallace Chan is a legend in the world of jewelry and more. Born in a poor family in Fuzhou in 1956 and moved to Hong Kong at the age of five. After a long apprenticeship, in 1987, he devised a method for sculpting figures inside a stone. The technique uses carvings as in cameos to create an image that is then reflected within the gem and creates a three-dimensional effect. As in the jadeite in the shape of a horse’s head, with white diamonds, yellow pink and brown, crystal, tsavorite garnet, on titanium: a piece not to be missed and which you see photographed on this page.
At Tefaf, in any case there are other pieces of unusual jewelry, such as the necklace with citrine signed Andrew Grima, or the ring with the Cassiopea diamond of 4 carats, part of the collection of Amy Burton. Federico Graglia
The twentieth century at auction
Art Nouveau and Art Deco Jewelry by the best designers at Geneva auction with Christie’s ♦︎
There are many vintage jewelry enthusiasts who are waiting for the grand auction opportunity to see closely pieces that have been closed in drawers and safes for decades. One of these occasions is November 13 in Geneva. Among the Magnificent Jewels from a European collection, there are on sale special Art Noveau and Art Deco pieces of particular beauty. Fine stuff, to collectors, for lovers of jewelery art. But they are also very precious pieces: the overall estimate of this collection exceeds 3 million euros.
The jewels are the result of a collection that has been completed in 30 years by a couple (especially her) who is passionate about this kind of piece, especially of the first half of the twentieth century. The names of the artists and jewelers in the collection are those found in the goldsmith’s history books: René Lalique (50 lots, a record), Henri Vever or Leopold Gautrait, or Georges Fouquet, Raymond Templier, Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels: in all, 110 jewels. Among them is the collection of jewels signed by Lalique, a designer who has created his best and most important pieces of Art Nouveau and has become a myth that continues today. Federico Graglia
Travel over time with the 1927/1928 collection of Lalique, Art Déco style ♦ ︎
Lalique is the Parisian Jewelery House named after René Jules Lalique, a French goldsmith (1860-1945) that marked an era. In particular, the period from the end of the nineteenth century to the first half of the last century. It is not strange, therefore, that the jewels presented today by Lalique are in some way related to the brand’s history. Now the Maison presents a series of jewels named after the reference years to which they are inspired: 1927/1928. That is, the years when the geometrical motifs of art déco represented the avant-garde are not in jewelery, but also in architecture, design and, more generally, in fashion. They are jewels, therefore, that do not focus so much on the preciousness of material or stone as on design, as evidenced by the use of materials such as resin or cotton. The prices are as follows: you start from the bottom, around 150 euros, to climb up to 700. The cost of a journey in time towards the thirties. Margherita Donato
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