Jewelry for him too at GemGenève

At GemGèneve, jewelry is also for him. The ninth edition of the fair (8-11 May 2025) has also turned the spotlight on men’s jewelry, a niche market that seems to be gaining more space in recent years. In the past and for some cultures, men’s jewelry has been widespread: men’s jewelry often served to indicate the rank, status or membership in a community of those who wore it. And, even now, there are those who abound with rings or necklaces in solid gold to indicate belonging to a special category, as is the case with rappers.

Today, for some collections, men represent up to 30% of the clientele of designers and brands: the ninth edition of GemGenève will therefore also present unisex jewelry, as Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director of GemGenève, argues. “It is true that in recent years we have seen more and more men wearing brooches, but we must not forget that the phenomenon has its roots in antiquity. There is nothing modern, therefore, in showing off a brooch. What is modern is the way in which one wears it: for a gala evening or on casual clothing. In recent years, the world of fashion and social networks have accustomed us to seeing men wearing jewelry more often,” writes Dekeukelaire, who wore two brooches by Chinese designer A.win Siu. “It is a piece of jewelry that I particularly love. First of all because I think it easily adds a touch of elegance to a dress or a suit. And then, something I really appreciate, the brooch offers incredible freedom in the way you wear it. You can remain traditional by showing it off on a jacket, or have fun showing it off more boldly on a sweater or a hoodie. In short, it allows you to easily break the codes, proposing unconventional looks without taking too many risks. A brooch attached to the collar can create an elegant effect even on the simplest of shirts, while remaining discreet.”

The director of GemGèneve therefore recommends imagining on which occasion a brooch can be worn and with which clothes, before buying one. “This allows me to make a purchase. I always have to fall in love with a piece of jewelry, let myself be seduced by the design and the delicacy of the workmanship,” adds Dekeukelaire, who recently bought a “very elegant brooch, a Lacloche piece” and who also loves the earrings created by Claire Choisne in 2023 for the Carte blanche More is More collection by Boucheron. “A jewel that appears extremely feminine, which is transfigured for a much more casual and unisex use, transforming into the cord of a hoodie. I look for this light-hearted touch in jewelry.”