Ute Decker: bracciale in oro riciclato

In London, avant-garde gold is green

The best of contemporary jewellery on display in London: this is what the Hallmark Salon promises, with its selection of 86 exhibitors, who in addition to talent, must have English production as a common characteristic. In practice, any piece, pendant, brooch, cufflinks or vase (there are also silversmiths) must have the UK hallmark. And yet among the various jewellers there is also an Italian, Barbara Bertagnolli, with a very characteristic style that blends together medieval influences, signs of the Viennese Secession and contemporary abstract forms. The origins of the Belpaese have influenced the creativity of the Australian Mia Chicco, who softens with a pavé of diamonds, 9-carat gold nuggets. Strong and graphic is Ute Decker, one of the first goldsmiths to launch a collection made of Fairtrade gold. Sustainability and ethics also for Jon Dibben, who creates rings and necklaces with unusual colored gems and ecological gold from the Oro Verde mine in Colombia, supported by the associations Fairtrade and Fairmined. Organic and natural shapes give an extravagant and attractive color to the rings of Beth Gilmour, while Lilly Hastedt combines pearls and antique glass to create earrings of a modern romanticism. In the brooch of a brooch pendant by Ingo Henn, the blue tanzanite looks like the eye of a tropical bird, also thanks to the setting with colored enamel. Nature also inspires Tomasz Donocik, who worked for jeweler Stephen Webster, before launching a collection with crocodiles, eagles and other animals at times brusquely realistic.

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