Everyone has to deal with a crease sooner or later. It can be the fold that shapes the hair, the one that divides a sheet of paper, that of a dress. Or a jewel. As in the case of Pleats, a collection by Tomasz Donocik dedicated to the alterations of a surface. The collection, explains the Polish-born, but London-based designer, is inspired by the design movements of the early 20th century, especially the Art Deco style and also by the folds commonly used in fashion at that time. But jewels also recall the shapes that appear when you look inside a kaleidoscope, or the thin woody surface you get when you sharpen a pencil.
Pleats is made up of just four pieces: two rings, a large brooch and a pair of earrings. The jewels are made of 18K yellow gold, smoky quartz, citrine, yellow topaz, crystal, white sapphires and white diamonds. A green tourmaline is also set in one of the two years.
Each identity is made up of many facets, like diamonds. And Tomasz Donocik, award-winning designer of Polish origin, but with a residence and workshop in London, is no exception. He became famous with super modern jewelry collections, with futuristic shapes, with many acute angles and a spatial design. But then he launched the Lily Pad collection, which he describes as an ode to old forgotten English gardens and ponds. The heart of the collection is the Lily Pad ring in rubellite, an unusual solitaire in the shape of a graceful enchanted flower, which the artist-jeweler associates with the fairy tale of Beauty and the Beast.
Born in Poland and raised in Austria, Tomasz Donocik founded his eponymous brand in 2008. Before launching his business he graduated from Central Saint Martins in London, followed by a master’s degree in goldsmithing, silverware and jewelery making at the Royal College of Art in the British capital. Immersed in this culturally rich environment, in his bio he emphasizes that he has developed a permanent passion for art, cinema and literature, sources of inspiration. Of which, one might add, also fairy tales are part.
Christie’s presents five new talents
Five jewelry talents for Christie’s. The auction house (21 June – 5 July) has selected some of the most interesting designers: Kayo Saito (United Kingdom), Ulla and Martin Kaufmann (Germany), Tomasz Donocik (United Kingdom), Chiara Passoni (Italy), Sarah Ho (UK). The goal is to promote contemporary jewelry, with emerging designers alongside the established names of the great Maison. The exhibition, in fact, is entitled Jewelery Talent of Today. The sale takes place online over two weeks.
Sarah Ho, born in Hong Kong, trained as a fashion designer, presents jewels dense with embroidery and beads. An example are the Daisy earrings with two cabochon emeralds, opal pearls with rubies, sapphires. Each gem is set in recycled 18K rose gold.
Ulla and Martin Kaufmann are recognized for their goldsmith skills and prefer geometric lines, simple, original, with large volumes. They feature unisex bracelets in 18K gold, large and enveloping.
Tomasz Donocik, of Polish origin, but now a Londoner, graduated with Central Saint Martins in London and, in addition to jewelry, has developed a passion for art, cinema and literature. He designed for some renowned Maison such as LVMH, Garrard and Stephen Webster before launching his own brand in 2009. He is inspired by Art Deco, the Eighties, and retrofuturism, with marked geometries. The designer presents earrings with emeralds and diamonds with studied asymmetries that evoke the Chrysler skyscraper in New York.
Chiara Passoni, with a past as a manager and sailor, a lover of the sea and marine fauna, has converted to jewelry. But without forgetting her previous passions. Her jewels also recall the themes of travel and the mysterious life of the past: she uses materials such as rare woods, precious and original stones, mammoth tusks, prehistoric shark teeth, fossils and ancient games of Chinese mother of pearl, jade. She presents wide bracelets made with African water buffalo horn, with gold and diamond inserts. “Each of my jewelry is a living part of my soul”, says Chiara.
Kayo Saito considers jewels as an art form, which he creates thanks also to his goldsmith skills. The jewels are sculptural, made of 18-karat gold and silver, with a Japanese and European aesthetic mix. She was trained in Japan and the UK, and received a Masters degree from the Royal College of Art in 2001. She features a Primavera necklace in 18K gold foil.
The new jewelry by Tomasz Donocik and the extraordinary necklace created for London goldsmiths ♦︎
Some time ago the Goldsmiths Company commissioned Tomasz Donocik, a designer of Polish origin, but now a Londoner, to create a diamond necklace to commemorate the year of Michael Wainwright, Prime Warden of the British goldsmiths’ association, one of the Twelve Great Livery Companies of the City of London, which received its first recognition by the king in 1327. The result was the Stellar Diamond Necklace.
The necklace is composed of baguette-cut diamonds for 19 carats, set with 266 18-karat gold links perfectly articulated. An encounter between the strength of the diamond and the elasticity of the layers that make up this architectural creation, explains the designer.
In addition to that piece of fine jewelery, Tomasz Donocik continues to design his jewels that always have geometric dynamism, with stones often cut into baguette, thin and colored. Like the Electric Night collection, where blue topazes and amethysts are tuned to the colors that light up the London hours from midnight onwards.
The 12 designers of VicenzaOro September
The 12 jewelers which will be in the Design Room at VicenzaOro September. Among the new entries Tomasz Donocik and Yeprem. Stephen Webster is also coming ♦ ︎
Ieg, the company that organizes VicenzaOro, has observed the lesson of Baselworld: communicating and avoiding a precipitous decline. Right, then, that promotes itself well in advance and proves to be alive and well. Indeed, with interesting news. For example, those concerning the Design Room, the space dedicated to fanciful and deserving jewelers’ boutiques. A formula which, among other things, it has been replicated in other exhibitions.
Here, then, the first novelties of VicenzaOro September, which this year is anticipated from 7 to 11 September. The Design Room, located inside the Icon pavilion, will complement some of the most important international innovations with appearances now consolidated in Vicenzaoro such as Marie Mas, Lydia Courteille and Alessio Boschi. Among these, also Tomasz Donocik, a Polish designer who lives and works in London, already named Jeweler of the year in the United Kingdom: we have written about him other times on gioiellis.com. Stylistically very contemporary, with a language that speaks to a sophisticated and mature public, he works in an artisanal way, exclusively in 18-carat gold, pink or white, use the best precious stones and has succeeded over time to innovate while respecting the harmony of forms.
Also Yeprem, a Lebanese designer famous for his diamond creations, and the Greek Lefteris Margaritis will also be present in the Design Room. Sicis, Mattia Cielo and Alessa Jewelry are also back. Finally, the presences of Eclats Jewelry, Cedille Paris and Netali Nissim are planned, with its iconic collection of prêt-à-porter talismans.
Stellar Tomasz Donocik
The spatial style of Tomasz Donocik in the latest creations of the Polish designer based in London ♦ ︎
In New York, at the Saks warehouses on Fifth Avenue (prestigious location for the jewelry department), Tomasz Donocik made his debut. He is one of the most popular designers. Born in Poland, he graduated in design at the Royal College of Art in London, where he now lives and works. Before creating his Maison he collaborated with brands such as Lvmh, De Beers, Garrard and Stephen Webster. In short, it has a substantial experience behind it. His style could be called electrical and cosmological. It is no coincidence that the most famous collections of Donocik are Electric Night and Stellar.
In addition to the classic gold, Tomasz Donocik uses gems with unusual cuts, such as baguettes for emeralds, sapphires, iolites, topazes and amethysts.
The stones are then set in jewelry with many edges, corners, and give the impression of being out of a science fiction movie. But prices, after all, are not stellar (start at $ 1,300 to go up to 23,000). Also the last collection of Donocik recalls cosmic explosions, with rays, angles, straight lines combined with pink opals, white agate, rubies, hematite and white diamonds. Certainly the style is unique, even if it is necessary to appreciate an unconventional style of jewelry.
Tomasz Donocik, a Polish designer who lives and works in London, continues to amaze with its strikingly shaped pieces. Here are his latest creations ♦
Tomasz Donocik you can be found in London, but it is a case. In fact, he was born in Poland and raised in Austria. But it is in the British capital that completed his studies in Jewellery Design at Central Saint Martins, and then went on to attend and gain a Master of Arts at the renowned Royal College of Art. Both studies, however, he has paid off: he was also appointed Jeweler of the year in the UK.
Attracted by the architectural forms, but also a curious mix between unusual and valuable, as in the case of the pendant that has a shape that is inspired by Tinker Bell, the character of Peter Pan, Tomasz Donocik has managed to overcome many stereotypes. In short, he was able to innovate and, at the same time, not to create bizarre and not very wearable jewelry. He works exclusively in 18-carat gold, pink or white, using the best gemstones, each piece is handmade as craftswork, in his studio in London. Here are some of his works and the prices. Giulia Netrese
A Londra è verde l’oro d’avanguardia
[wzslider]Il meglio del gioiello contemporaneo in mostra a Londra: è quanto promette il Hallmark Salon, con la sua selezione di 86 espositori, che oltre al talento, devono avere come caratteristica comune la produzione inglese. In pratica, qualsiasi pezzo, ciondolo, spilla, gemelli o vaso (ci sono anche gli argentieri) deve avere la punzonatura Uk. Eppure tra i diversi gioiellieri anche un’italiana, Barbara Bertagnolli, dallo stile molto caratteristico che fonde insieme influenze medievali, i segni della Secessione viennese e forme astratte contemporanee. Le origini del Belpaese hanno influenzato l’estro dell’australiana Mia Chicco, che ammorbidisce con un pavé di brillanti, pepite d’oro a 9 carati. Forte e grafica è Ute Decker, una delle prime orafe a lanciare una collezione realizzata in oro Fairtrade. Sostenibilità ed etica anche per Jon Dibben, che realizza anelli e collane con gemme dai colori insoliti e oro ecologico dalla miniera Oro Verde in Colombia, sostenuta dalle associazioni Fairtrade e Fairmined. Forme organiche e naturali danno una cromia stravagante e attraente agli anelli di Beth Gilmour, mentre Lilly Hastedt combina perle e vetri antichi per creare orecchini di un moderno romanticismo. Nel ciondolo spilla di spilla di Ingo Henn, la tanzanite blu sembra l’occhio di un uccello tropicale, grazie anche alla montatura con smalto colorato. La natura ispira anche Tomasz Donocik, che ha lavorato per gioielliere Stephen Webster, prima di lanciare una collezione con coccodrilli, aquile e altri animali a tratti bruscamente realistica. G.N.
Somerset House, West Wing Strand London WC2R 1LA 24-28 giugno 11.am-6.30 pm Biglietto: 6 sterlineIn London the cutting-edge gold goes green
The best of contemporary jewelery in London: is what promises Hallmark Salon, with its selection of 86 exhibitors. All talented, they have as a common feature of the English production. So, every piece, pendant, brooch, cufflinks or jar (there are also silversmiths) must has been hallmarked in the Uk. Yet among them also an Italian, Barbara Bertagnolli, who has a very distinctive style with influences from the Medieval period, the Vienna Seccession and contemporary abstract forms. The Italian heritage influenced creativity of the Australian Mia Chicco, which softens gold 9 carats studs with a diamonds pavé . Strong and looking utterly contemporary is Ute Decker, one of the first to launch a jewelery collection crafted in Fairtrade gold. Sustainability and ethic for Jon Dibben, which designs rings and necklaces with unusual coloured gems and gold coming from the Oro Verde ecological mine in Colombia, supported by Fairtrade and Fairmined associations. Organic and natural shapes give a whimsical and attractive tone Beth Gilmour’s rings, while Lilly Hastedt combines ancient glass beads and earrings to create a modern romance. In brooch pendant by Ingo Henn, tanzanite blue looks like the eye of a tropical bird, thanks to colored enamel. Nature also inspires Tomasz Donocik, who worked for jeweler Stephen Webster, before launching himself a collection with crocodiles, eagles and other animals at times sharply realistic.
A Londres, l’or de pointe est vert
Le meilleur du bijou contemporain à Londres: c’est ce que promet Hallmark Salon, avec sa sélection de 86 exposants. Tous talentueux, ils ont caractérisé de la production anglaise. Ainsi, chaque pièce, pendentif, broche, boutons de manchette ou un bocal (il ya aussi des orfèvres) doivent a été poinçonnés dans le Royaume-Uni. Pourtant, parmi eux aussi un italien, Barbara Bertagnolli, qui a un style très distinctif avec des influences de l’époque médiévale, la Vienne Sécession et formes abstraites contemporaines. Le patrimoine italien influencé la créativité de l’australienne Mia Chicco, qui adoucit 9 carats clou avec un pavé de diamants. Forte et contemporain est Ute Decker, l’un des premiers à lancer une collection de bijoux fabriqués en or du Fairtrade. Durabilité et éthique pour Jon Dibben, qui conçoit bagues et colliers avec pierres précieuses de couleur inhabituelles et or provenant de la mine écologique Oro Verde en Colombie, appuyée par Fairtrade et Fairmined associations. Les formes organiques et naturelles donnent une tonalité extravagant et attrayant les bagues de Beth Gilmour, tandis que Lilly Hastedt combine perles et verre antiques pour créer boucles d’oreilles en un romantisme moderne. Dans broche pendentif par Ingo Henn, bleu tanzanite ressemble à l’œil d’un oiseau tropical, grâce à l’émail de couleur. La nature inspire également Tomasz Donocik, qui a travaillé pour le bijoutier Stephen Webster, avant de se lancer une collection de crocodiles, des aigles et autres animaux parfois fortement réalistes.
In London geht innovative gold grün
Die besten der zeitgenössischen Schmuck in London: Was ist, verspricht Hallmark Salon Mit seiner Auswahl von 86 Ausstellern. Alle talentiert, haben sie als gemeinsames Merkmal der Produktion Inglese. Also, jedes Stück, Anhänger, Broschen, Manschettenknöpfe oder Glas (Auch gibt es Silberschmiede) Muss Has Been in Großbritannien geprägt. Unter ihnen auch noch ein Italiener, Barbara Bertagnolli, der ein sehr markanten Stil mit Einflüssen aus dem Mittelalter, der Wiener Secession und zeitgenössische abstrakte Formen hat. Die italienischen Erbe beeinflusst Kreativität der australischen Chicco Mia, Die erweicht 9 Karat Gold Ohrstecker mit einem Pavé-Diamanten. Stark und ist ganz und gar auf der Suche zeitgenössischen Ute Decker, einer der ersten, eine Schmuck-Kollektion in Fairtrade-Gold gefertigt starten. Nachhaltigkeit und Ethik für Jon Dibben, Designer Ringe und Halsketten mit ungewöhnlichen farbige Edelsteine und Gold, die aus dem ökologischen Oro Verde Mine in Kolumbien, von Fairtrade und Fairmined Verbänden unterstützt. Bio-und Naturformen geben einen wunderlichen und attraktive Beth Ton Gilmour Ringe, während Lilly Hastedt verbindet alte Glasperlen und Ohrringe, um eine moderne Romantik zu schaffen. In Brosche Anhänger von Ingo Henn, sieht Tansanitblau wie das Auge eines tropischen Vogels, dank farbiger Emaille. Natur inspiriert auch Tomasz Donocik, der Juwelier Stephen Webster für gearbeitet, vor dem Start eine Sammlung mit sich selbst Krokodile, Adler und andere Tiere in Zeiten stark realistisch.
В Лондоне, инновационный золото идет зеленый
Лучшие из современных ювелирных изделий в Лондоне: Что такое Hallmark Салон обещания, с диапазоном 86 экспонентов. Все талантливые, у них есть Inglese как общая черта производства. Таким образом, каждый кусок, кулоны, броши, запонки или стекло (также, есть серебряных) Должен был придуман в Великобритании. Среди них, также итальянский, Барбара Bertagnolli, кто имеет очень характерный стиль с влияниями от средневековья, сецессиона и современных абстрактных форм. Итальянский влияния наследия творчество австралийской Chicco Mia, размягченным 9-каратного золота серьги с бриллиантами проложить. Сильный и полностью ищете современный Ute Декер, одним из первых, чтобы начать коллекцию ювелирных изделий, достигнутый в Fairtrade золота. Устойчивость и этика для Jon Dibben, дизайнерские кольца и ожерелья с необычными цветные драгоценные камни и золото, которые при поддержке экологической Оро Верде шахте в Колумбии, справедливой торговли и Средне добывается ассоциаций. Органические и натуральные формы дать причудливые и привлекательные тона кольца Бет Гилмора, в то время как Лилли Hastedt сочетает древние стеклянные бусы и серьги для создания современной романтики. В брошь подвеска Инго Хенн, танзанит выглядит глаза тропического птицы, благодаря цветной эмалью. Природа вдохновляет Томаш Доночик, ювелир Стивен Вебстер работал, прежде чем начать коллекцию с собой крокодилов, орлов и других животных в периоды сильной реалистичным.
En Londres, el oro de vangiardia es verde
Lo mejor de la exposición de joyería contemporánea en Londres es lo que promete Hallmark Salón, con su selección de 86 expositores, además de talento, tiene que tener como característica común de la producción de Inglés. En la práctica, cualquier pieza, colgante, broche, gemelos o frasco (también hay plateros) deben tener la perforación Uk. Sin embargo, entre las diferentes joyeros también un italiano, Barbara Bertagnolli, de estilo muy característico que mezcla influencias medievales, los signos de las formas contemporáneas y abstractas Vienna Secession. Los orígenes de Italia influyó en la creatividad del Chicco australiana Mia, que suaviza con un pavé de diamantes, pepitas de oro para 9 quilates. Los gráficos son fuertes y Ute Decker, uno de los primeros en lanzar una colección de joyería en oro de Comercio Justo. La sostenibilidad y la ética para Jon Dibben, lo que hace que los anillos y collares con gemas de colores inusuales y el oro de la mina ecológica Oro Verde en Colombia, con el apoyo de las asociaciones y de Comercio Justo Fairmined. Las formas orgánicas y los colores naturales dan unas caprichosas y atractivas anillos Bet Gilmour, mientras que Lilly Hastedt combina antiguas cuentas de cristal y los pendientes para crear un romance moderno. En broche colgante broche de Ingo Henn, azul tanzanita se ve como el ojo de un pájaro tropical, gracias a la estructura con el esmalte de color. La naturaleza también inspira Tomasz Donocik, que trabajaba para el joyero Stephen Webster, antes de lanzar una colección de cocodrilos, águilas y otros animales en los momentos marcadamente realista