pearls Archives | gioiellis.com

A collection for Mikimoto’s 130th anniversary

Published on July 3, 2023

Showroom

Turning 130 and feeling young. It is a feeling experienced by the designers of Mikimoto, the Japanese Maison synonymous with jewelery with pearls, which is celebrating its important anniversary. And, of course, the best way to celebrate is to present a new collection. The result would have satisfied Kokichi Mikimoto, the founder of the company who in 1983 created the process for obtaining cultured pearls. In addition to the collection, to celebrate the anniversary Mikimoto has produced videos that underline sustainability in the production of pearls, to implement a zero-emission farming system capable of collecting and recycling the waste from the process. Previously, when the pearls were collected, the shells and the rest of the mollusk were thrown away: now Mikimoto reuses and recycles the waste.

Ciondolo Splash con perle Akoya e zaffiri — Splash pendant with Akoya pearls and sapphires

Collagen and conchiolin, the pearl protein, are extracted for use in cosmetics and food supplements, while oyster shells are repurposed for decorative use. The 130th birthday collection is a mix of new jewels and past designs, produced in limited editions. The pearls, mostly of the Akoya type, but not only, were combined with white gold, diamonds and blue sapphires. It is a very varied collection, with prices starting from 640 dollars to 246,000 dollars for the diamond necklace with a pendant composed of a rare pink conch pearl.

Collana con diamanti, oro bianco e perla conch — Necklace with diamonds, white gold and conch pearl

Collana con perle multicolori — Necklace with multicolored pearls

Spella Giardino misterioso con diamanti e perle conch — Mysterious Garden brooch with diamonds and conch pearls

Orecchini con perle Akoya e zaffiri — Earrings with Akoya pearls and sapphires

5 rules for choosing pearl earrings

Published on April 15, 2023

Campus

Kate Middleton al battesimo del principe Louis

How to choose pearl earrings? To decide, look at what Kate Middleton wore ♦ ︎

Pearls, especially earrings, have always been a must for queens and princesses. When, for example, Prince Louis was baptized, no one was surprised that his mother, the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, wore pearl earrings (along with a cream Alexander McQueen dress). The earrings, if you’re curious, were by London jeweler Cassandra Goad and cost £ 4,360. Each pearl features a small diamond set, surrounded by 18K yellow gold. Fun Look: The design of these earrings was inspired by clusters of cauliflower in a Sicilian market.

Cassandra Goad, orecchini Cavolfiore, indossati da Kate Middleton

In short, this is just one example. Pearl earrings are regularly worn on the most diverse occasions. There are those who choose pearls and combine them with jeans or those, like Kate Middleton, who use them as a classic and always fashionable jewel also for official occasions, evenings and ceremonies. According to the International Gem Society, white pearls have a link with innocence and purity. In Asia, pearls are considered a symbol of divinity and a higher power due to the external appearance and circular shape of the gem. However, pearl earrings are not all the same. First of all, pearls can have different shapes, not necessarily circular. And, moreover, pearls also have different colors: from pearly white to shades of gold, green or dark gray.

Meghan Markle con gli orecchini di perle

How to choose pearl earrings

1 Choose earrings with dangling pearls, perhaps in the shape of a drop, if you have a rather round face.

2 Better earrings with button pearls, or clusters like those worn by Kate Middleton, if you have an elongated face.

3 The color of the pearls can also be matched to the skin tone. White or golden pearls for those with fair skin, Tahitian pearls with a gray color or with purple hues for those with brown or dark skin.

4 A pair of pearl earrings can be worn on any occasion as long as it is simple, such as stud earrings. Pendant earrings, perhaps combined with diamonds or other precious stones is better if they are reserved for busy evenings.

5 Matching with the dress: white pearls are neutral and can be combined with any outfit. Colored pearls, on the other hand, are to be considered in all respects as jewels to be coordinated with the color of the dress, such as a scarf or a brooch.

Orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati e diamanti con due perle South Sea — Jewelmer, orecchini pendenti in oro 18 carati e diamanti con due perle South Sea

Orecchini in oro bianco e perle di Tahiti, diamanti — Schoeffel, orecchini in oro bianco e perle di Tahiti, diamanti

Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e perle rosa — Coscia, orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e perle rosa

Autore, orecchini della collezione Stars & Galaxies

Yoko London, orecchini con perle di Tahiti e diamanti

tiffany signature pearlsearrings 23100509 870395 ED M — Tiffany Signature, orecchini con perle e diamanti

La regina Elisabetta indossa gli orecchini con perle

Orecchini Hoops in fibra di carbonio, perle — Fabio Salini, orecchini Hoops in fibra di carbonio, perle

Orecchini con tormalina bicolore e perle di Thaiti — Assael, orecchini con tormalina bicolore e perle di Tahiti

Orecchini a forma di grappolo d'uva, con perle, platino e diamanti — Verdura, orecchini a forma di grappolo d’uva, con oro, perle, platino e diamanti

Orecchini di perle con diamanti — Mikimoto, orecchini di perle con diamanti

Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta

Beware of jewels that are easily damaged

Published on March 29, 2023

Campus

Did you know that light and heat can ruin your jewelry? Yet it is so. There are many jewels that can be compromised due to continuous exposure to light and too high a temperature. And it is not a question of the flame of a fire, but of simple solar heat. Here, then, which jewelry you need to protect your jewelry from light and heat.

The jewels at risk with light
First of all, it is better to clarify: not all jewels are sensitive to light and heat and, even those that are, have different degrees of criticality. An 18K gold bracelet will not have too many problems. The jewels most at risk, on the other hand, are those that use stones or other delicate materials: just like the skin or fabrics, the sun’s rays can compromise their color, which can fade. Too much light (beyond what is necessary for a simple use of the jewel) can also seriously damage their structure. The jewels at risk are those with delicate materials such as amber, ivory, pearls. But also with precious stones such as amethyst, kunzite, topaz, or cameos made with the engraving of a shell. Pearls and ivory, for example, are elements that turn whiter when exposed to extreme light. For a colored pearl, such as the black ones from Tahiti, the light can cause considerable damage. On the contrary, amber becomes darker if exposed to the sun for a long time.

Le perle sono tra i materiali più delicati

The jewels at risk with heat
So much heat and then sudden cold, for example in the summer when you go from the beach to an air-conditioned room, is a risk factor for stone jewelry. Sudden changes in temperature, in fact, can crack stones or more delicate materials. Pearls, for example, could dry out, break and discolor if they lose the moisture they need. But even stones like opals can change color and suddenly turn white or dark, and tiny cracks can appear on the surface, which in the long run can compromise the structure of the stone itself. There is also another reason to fear the heat. Many colored gemstones, in fact, are subjected to strong heat to improve the color and, in some cases, to make them even more transparent. Not only that: they are also often treated with solvents, steam and ultrasonic cleaners. These treatments can make the gem more attractive, but also more delicate. In short, don’t leave a stone ring in the sun for a long time.

I rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati — Birmania, i rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati per ravvivarne il colore

These are the most delicate gems
According to the ranking drawn up by Gia, among the stones most susceptible to heat and temperature changes, regardless of whether they are treated or not, there are tanzanite, feldspar (sun stone and moonstone), fluorite, iolite, kunzite, lapis lazuli , malachite, opal, topaz, turquoise, zircon.

Riparazione di un gioiello con pietra danneggiata

Gli opali sono pietre particolarmente delicate

Orecchini con cammeo su conchiglia sardonica

What are akoya Pearls?

Published on March 28, 2023

Campus

What are akoya Pearls? If you intend to buy a pearl necklace or pearl earrings, a bracelet or a ring made with these small spheres produced by special molluscs, it is easy for you to come across the term akoya, which distinguishes a particular type of pearl. But what are Akoya pearls? If you are curious, discover the characteristics of these pearls and, of course, the origin of the name akoya.

Collana di perle akoya — Mazza, collana di perle akoya

Akoya pearls are a variety of cultured pearls known for their beauty and luster. These pearls are grown in salt water and are the fruit of a type of oyster they grow in, Pinctada fucata martensii. These oysters are mainly grown in Japan, although cultivation technologies have also been developed in other countries, such as China and Korea. However, akoya pearls are available all over the world. This variety of pearls are considered the quintessential classic pearls. They were first introduced to Japan in the late 19th century, and have since become one of the most popular pearls in the world.

Characteristics of akoya pearls
As we have said, akoya pearls are appreciated for their luster, but also for their brilliant color and regular shape. Luster refers to the pearl’s ability to reflect light, creating a luminous effect on the surface. The color of akoya pearls is generally white or cream, although they are available in other shades such as pink, gold and silver. The round shape is considered the ideal shape for akoya pearls, but they can also be oval, teardrop or baroque. Akoya pearls are generally smaller than other cultured pearls, ranging in diameter from 2 to 10 millimeters. However, there are also larger akoya pearls that can be as large as 12-13 millimeters. These beads are commonly used to make jewelry such as necklaces, bracelets and earrings.

Cultivation of akoya pearls
Cultivation of akoya pearls begins with the selection of ripe oysters, which are then grafted with a piece of mantle tissue from another oyster. This tissue stimulates the oyster to produce mother-of-pearl, or nacre, a substance that coats the nucleus of the implanted tissue, forming the pearl.

Bracciale con perle Akoya e diamanti di Yoko London

Pearl cleaning
Akoya pearls are considered a symbol of elegance and sophistication, and are often worn on special occasions such as weddings and formal events. They are also a great choice for gifts, especially for women who appreciate fashion and design. Be careful: Akoya pearls are quite fragile, so they must be treated with care to avoid scratches or damage. Avoid exposing them to chemicals or heat, and it is best to clean them gently with a soft cloth after use.

Assael, bracciale in oro con perle Akoya

The origin of the name
The term akoya comes from the name of the oyster that produces these pearls, or the akoya oyster according to the Japanese name (Pinctada fucata martensii). These oysters grow naturally in the coastal waters of Japan, where the water is rich in nutrients and minerals that promote pearl growth, and where akoya pearls were first cultured in the late 19th century. The term akoya is Japanese for salt water, which reflects the environment in which these pearls are grown.

Bracciale della linea Milano con perle Akoya gialle indossato — Alessio Boschi, bracciale della linea Milano con perle Akoya gialle indossato

What are maki-e pearls

Published on March 22, 2023

Campus

Perla di Tahiti lavorata con la tecnica maki-e

The word maki, in Japanese, means roll, as those who frequent sushi restaurants know well. Maki-e, instead, indicates an ancient pearls manufacturing technique. It is quite rare technique and often is associated with a mosaic processing.

Orecchini con perle maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone

This technique consists in adding lacquer and 24-karat gold powder paint and tiny abalone tesserae to the pearls. The result is small decorated and even more precious pearls. Maki-e, in particular, is a painting technique developed a thousand years ago in Japan. The lacquer is applied to the surface of the pearl, and then mixed with gold or silver powder paint. The mosaic applied to pearls is, however, a more recent technique, but is often used together with the maki-e process. Only South Sea pearls are used to create these creations.

Pendente con perla di Tahiti e pesci Koi di Judi McCormick Jewelry

Maki-e is a traditional Japanese decoration technique from the Edo period. Each bead is hand decorated using a combination of Urushi lacquer (from the Japanese Urushi tree), 24k gold dust and abalone shell.

If you have never seen a pearl worked in mosaic or painted with the maki-e technique don’t worry: they are very rare. In the world there are only four manufacturers of pearls decorated in this. In the US, Eliko Pearls distributes these pearls, which sells them at a price between 300 and 1200 dollars each.

Orecchini con granati, diamanti e perle a mosaico di Deirdre Featherstone

Collana con pendente: perla maki-e di Deirdre Featherstone

Sophie Bille Brahe’s bubbles of diamonds and pearls

Published on January 9, 2023

Showroom

Anello Plateau Diamant in oro e diamanti

Venice has inspired poets, painters, musicians. But also jewelers and designers. In the case of the Danish Sophie Bille Brahe, however, Venice was not the muse, but Murano. The island near the lagoon city is famous for its glass craft workshops. And it is precisely the artisans-artists of Murano, who work the delicate material, that Sophie Bille Brahe has decided to combine pearls and glass spheres, in an unusual and refined mix.

Bracciale tennis in oro 14 carati e diamanti

In short, the Copenhagen designer added something more to her way of making jewelry, a passion she has cultivated since she was a child. Once grown up, she studied jewelry design at the Royal College of Art in London and trained with master jewelers in her hometown. She founded his brand in 2011. The jewels are handmade using secular jewelery techniques.

Orecchini Jardin de Coeurs in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce

She divides his jewelry into two broad lines: pearls and diamonds. In both cases she uses that simple and intelligent design that is typical of the Nordic countries. Pearls are often used in clusters with ever-changing volumes, while diamonds are aligned with a rivière that provides movement to the composition. Simple, but effective.

Collana Jardin de Peggy in oro 14 carati e perle di acqua dolce

Orecchini chandelier in oro q4 carati e perle di acqua dolce

The Starlight Collection by Yoko London

Published on October 31, 2022

Showroom

Stars found at the bottom of the sea. This is how South Sea pearls used together with diamonds for the new rings, necklaces and earrings from Yoko London’s Starlight Collection could be considered. The pearls, which are grown in the water of the oceans, become the stars at the center of the jewels inspired by the constellations that illuminate the night sky. And as in the constellations, the collection features some geometric motifs: pearl spheres, symbolizing stars and planets, are found next to the rays that shine from diamonds, often used in diamond patterns.

In addition to the white pearls, the collection also uses the black ones from Tahiti. The rings are offered in the moi et toi version, with pearls alternating with white diamonds. Maison Yoko London specializes in pearl jewelery and has just opened a large store in London. The company was founded in 1973 by the Hakimian family and has chosen to use only natural pearls of the best quality.

Anello in oro, diamanti e perla della Starlight collection

Collana con perla del Mari del Sud e diamanti

Men with pearl necklace by Assael

Published on October 14, 2022

news

In the seventeenth century, gentlemen did not disdain brooches or pearl jewelry. Likewise, Indian maharajas have often used pearls, along with precious gems, to decorate turbans or embellish brooches. Understandably, jewelers today are aiming for a return of the male audience to high jewelery. This is the case of Assael, a New York Maison specializing in pearls and coral, which presents a 2023 communication campaign in which the man wears a string of pearls and a flashy brooch.

Anello della collezione Bubble con perle di Tahiti

It is not the first brand to try to persuade men to wear high jewelry: before Assael also brands like Mikimoto or Boucheron presented models wearing precious jewels instead of the usual chains with plaques and leather bracelets. The Assael campaign was shot in Miami by fashion photographer David Benoliel and involves models Michaela Kocianova and James Lorenzo, who wear Assael jewelry. A precious consensus to the style of the campaign came from the jewelery historian Vivienne Becker. Will it be enough to convince a manager to show up at the bank with a pearl necklace instead of a tie?

Collana di perle della collezione Bubble

The precious colors of Picchiotti

Published on September 27, 2022

alta gioielleria

Anello Essentially Color di Picchiotti indossato con tormalina verde, ametista, diamanti

The pleasure of being out of the ordinary. It is one of the reasons that lead to choose a different dress, or simply an accessory. Of course, being out of the ordinary doesn’t mean being bizarre, extravagant, ridiculous. The beauty of being unusual is when what you choose to wear is particularly interesting. It strikes, without offending the eyes. Indeed, it attracts attention for its beauty. This is the criterion followed over the years by Picchiotti to compose the series of high jewelery pieces that has the name of Essentially Color. The name already indicates which is the unusual path followed by the Italian Maison famous for its high quality production.

Anello con spinello rosa-arancio di 8,81 carati e diamanti

The Essentially Color collection focuses on unusual but refined gems, together with rare pearls. Combinations, jewelery design and quality of construction contribute to making these jewels unique pieces capable of enticing even collectors accustomed to buying precious stones of great value. Among the latest pieces made by Picchiotti there is, for example, a necklace with 15 South Sea pearls and diamonds for over 24 carats. Or a ring with an orange-pink Burmese spinel of 8.81 carats and diamonds.

Collana con 15 perle South Sea e diamanti per 24 carati

Collana con corallo, onice e 30 carati di diamanti

Anello con perla nera di Tahiti e diamanti

Anello con tormalina verde di 8,52 carati, ametista, diamanti

Anello con perla bianca South Sea e diamanti

The golden pearls of Jewelmer

Published on September 6, 2022

Showroom

If you like golden pearls, with that warm shade that only the South Seas can offer, you must get to know Jewelmer. The brand was born over 40 years ago in the Philippines, where the cultivation of these special pearls takes place on the initiative of Jacques Branellec and Manuel Cojuangco. The specialization in golden pearls has been successful and the brand has made itself known all over the world, from Japan to Kazakhstan, from the United Arab Emirates to Colombia. Last year Jewelmer opened a single-brand store on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach in Florida, United States.

Orecchini in oro con perle dorate del Mari del Sud

The golden pearls used by Jewelmer are those of the South Seas. Many wonder if the golden pearls are completely natural, or if they are covered with a gold dust. The answer is that they are natural pearls. The golden variety generally comes from the Celebes Sea between Indonesia and the Philippines and is made from a particular variety of oysters called Pinctada Maxima. These are medium sized oysters who love this particular tropical habitat and produce a golden pearl. These pearls, which are more generically part of those defined as the South Seas, can have a shade from pale gold to pink gold, up to green gold or intense yellow. However, golden pearls are rarer than white ones, also because they often come from remote and unspoiled areas, such as the province of Palawan in the southern Philippines.

Celeste Cortesi, Miss Filippine, indossa gioielli di Jewelmer

The brand offers jewels made with pearls grown on their farms, located in a protected marine area and employ eco-conscious processes, such as the use of solar energy and the implementation of waste recycling. An attention to the environment that won the Initiative of the Year award of the year at the Jewelery News Asia Awards in Hong Kong in September 2018. But apart from the concept of sustainability, the Asian Maison counts on the interest aroused by its jewels, gilded like the Eastern sun.

Collana La Mer en Majesté con perle dorate, diamanti e zaffiri

Collana in oro con motivo floreale, con perle e diamanti

Orecchini con perle di diverso colore su oro 18 carati

Orecchini in oro, diamanti e perle South Sea

A new super store for Yoko London

Published on August 18, 2022

news

Yoko London has opened a new flagship store, obviously in London, at 6 Sloane Street. The new store is located in a historic building from 1890 and spans over 1,200 square meters (4,000 feet) over two floors. The store is therefore one of the largest pearl jewelry stores in the world. The store offers a feeling of opulence, with space for shopping for customers interested in the House’s wide range of collections. Customers can also opt for a more personalized shopping experience in one of the VIP areas, which offer a private and relaxed atmosphere where customers can try the products.

The store, which is also open on Sundays, is also a pearl atelier, where the brand’s team of experts can work closely with customers to create bespoke creations. Yoko London was founded in 1973 by the Hakimian family and on the eve of half a century of history remains a family business. The team works with 13 different pearl farms around the world to source and select the most beautiful and unusual pearls on the market, with rare colors and exceptional sizes of particular interest to the team. Each pearl is carefully hand selected and set in the London workshop by expert craftsmen. Projects can take months, or even years, to materialize, exemplifying the team’s dedication to perfectly match each pearl in one piece.

Interno del flagship store di Yoko London in Sloane Street

Yoko London, bracciale di alta gioielleria

How much does a pearl necklace cost

Published on July 28, 2022

Campus

How much does a pearl necklace cost? The pearl necklace is a piece of jewelry that is rarely missing in a woman’s drawer. It is not strange, therefore, that those who want to buy one wonder how much a pearl necklace is. Of course, it is easy to understand that the question, posed in this way, is a bit generic. For two reasons: pearls are not all the same and have huge price differences. Furthermore, the price is also determined by two other factors: the number of pearls used and their size. That said, let’s see how to understand what the true price of a pearl necklace can be.

If you have searched the web for the cost of a pearl necklace you will have noticed that there are necklaces that cost a few tens of euros or dollars, up to thousands of euros or dollars. So what does it depend on?

The quality of the pearls
The price of a pearl necklace is primarily determined by the quality of the small beads used. Natural uncultivated pearls, those found at the bottom of the sea by an underwater prospector, are very rare and very expensive. Better not to consider them if you don’t have a bank account with more than six zeros.
Most commonly, the value of a quality cultured pearl is a few hundred euros. Cultured pearls are 99.99% of those on the market and are completely identical to pearls that form spontaneously in the species of molluscs that produce them.

La collana di perle Palawan — La collana di perle dorate Palawan South Sea

Cultured pearls, like precious stones, are not all the same, but they are classified according to quality standards. The value is determined by the shape, size, color, surface, quality of the mother of pearl and luster. Each of these factors determines the value of the pearl.
Read also: All about pearls

How much does a pearl necklace cost
There is also the type determined by the origin: pearls can be very different from each other. In general, the pearls that cost the most are those of the South Seas, which have colors ranging from white to gold, the most expensive, produced by the Pinctada maxima mollusk. Necklaces with this type of pearls cost thousands of euros or dollars. Freshwater pearls, on the other hand, can cost just a few tens of euros or dollars.

If you like dark pearls, with colors ranging from gray to purplish, you can opt for dark Tahitian pearls. Again the price is determined by their quality and the number of pearls used for a necklace. You can find Tahitian pearl necklaces that cost less than a thousand euros or dollars, up to tens of thousands of euros / dollars.

Collana di perle by Coscia, indossata — Collana di perle di Tahiti by Coscia, indossata

The classic round white pearls are often Akoya. They were the first pearls to be cultivated in Japan. They are a little smaller than those of the South Seas and have a more affordable price, ranging from a few hundred euros / dollars up to a few thousand (again for size, number and quality), but less than Tahitian pearls.

Collana di perle Akoya e oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti

The least expensive pearls are freshwater pearls. As is immediately understandable, these pearls are grown in river or lake water, especially in China and Japan. They are available in different shapes, sizes and colors. The best ones look a lot like Akoya pearls, but cost much less: a string of fresh aqua pearls can also be found for a few tens of euros / dollars. The best necklaces, however, easily exceed one thousand euros / dollars. What makes them different? First of all, freshwater pearls are generated by Margaritifera margaritifera, a variety of mussels. Akoya pearls are instead produced from a type of oyster.

Collana in argento con perle di acqua dolce

Investing in a pearl necklace can be a good idea. If they are cleaned and maintained constantly over time, pearls retain or increase their value. But only high-quality jewelry has a market. In short, if you buy a pearl necklace that is cheap, have fun wearing it, but don’t think you can resell it in the future.

Collana a cinque fili di perle di Viren Bhagat, venduta da Christie's per 1,6 milioni di dollari — Collana a cinque fili di perle di Viren Bhagat, venduta da Christie’s per 1,6 milioni di dollari

Collana di Yoko London in oro bianco, perle e diamanti indossata nella serie «Bridgerton». Copyright: gioiellis.com

Coltivazione di perle in una farm di Autore, in Australia

Assael’s rare pearls

Published on July 24, 2022

Showroom/perle

Anello con rara perla di ostrica spinosa Spondylus viola e striscia blu assieme a spinelli ovali viola su platino

Le perle rare e i gioielli straordinari di Assael, Maison con base a New York ♦

Le storie dei grandi gioiellieri sono spesso intrecciate alle storie di grandi commerci di gemme. E le storie di grandi commerci di gemme sono spesso intrecciate a quelle di grandi viaggi. Compiuti per necessità o per spirito di avventura, per business o per semplice curiosità: spesso questi cambiamenti radicali sono stati l’inizio di sage familiari legate alla gioielleria.

tormalina bicolore con taglio a cuscino di quasi 28 carati. Parure di perle baby Akoya in oro rosa 18 carati — Tormalina bicolore taglio a cuscino di 28 carati con perle baby Akoya, oro rosa 18 carati

È questo il caso di James Assael, commerciante di diamanti che lavorava a Milano, in Italia, nei primi anni del secolo scorso. Prima dell’inizio della seconda guerra mondiale, James Assael (erano tempi difficili) è arrivato in America, via Cuba. Il figlio di James, Salvador, dopo essersi distinto nell’esercito degli Stati Uniti durante la guerra in Europa, ha continuato poi a lavorare con il padre, ma allargando il commercio, e poi la realizzazione di spettacolari gioielli, anche alle perle. Anzi, alle migliori perle. Ed è diventato il re delle perle.

Anello con perla dei Mari del Sud di 14 millimetri e acquamarina di 10 carati

La storia dell’azienda racconta che Salvador è stato sedotto dalla bellezza del più grande perla di tutti, il Pinctada Maxima, dalla perla del mare del sud, dalla più piccola d’oro indonesiana, dalle rare perle birmane, dalla perla nera di Tahiti. La selezione delle perle di Assael è severissima. Solo il 5% delle perle è considerata perfettamente tonda. La tradizione di famiglia continua oggi con Christina Lang Assael e con la immutabile, severa, selezione di perle e di gemme. Come testimoniano gli straordinari pezzi firmati Assael, sia nella linea di alta gioielleria, che in quella delle collezioni non concepite come pezzi unici. Guardare per credere.

Orecchini con aggregato di feldspato, quarzo, rame del Michigan e corallo della Sardegna

Orecchini con corallo della Sardegna e lapislazzuli

Anello con perla dorata dei Mari del Sud, tormalina bicolore e zaffiro rosa

Anello con corallo Skin Angel e acquamarina

Pearls in Eclipse with Yoko London

Published on April 23, 2022

Rings/Orecchini/Showroom

Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco, diamanti e perle rosa

There is not only high jewelery, such as the necklace worn in the Bridgerton tv series, which is set in England during the Regency period, among the most interesting novelties of Yoko London. At the recent Haute Jewels Geneva the Maison also showed the new Eclipse collection, consisting of contemporary-style hoop earrings and easy-to-wear stackable rings.

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Pearls, which are the characteristic element of Yoko London, in this case are used in small sizes of 3-3.5 millimeters, so that they are able to enrich rings in white or yellow gold, alternating with brilliant-cut diamonds. Furthermore, freshwater pearls are offered in the classic white pearly white color, or in a pink version. The rings, like the earrings, are of two volumes, with one or two rounds of pearls.

Anello in oro giallo, perle di acqua dolce e diamanti

Anello in oro giallo, perle di acqua dolce rosa e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, perle di acqua dolce

Orecchini a cerchio in oro giallo e perle

Orecchini a cerchio in oro giallo, diamanti e perle rosa

24 things you don’t know about the pearl necklace

Published on December 17, 2021

Campus/perle/COLLANE

Do you want to buy a pearl necklace? Or do you have earrings with pearls in your drawer, or a ring with a beautiful pearl? Like diamonds, pearls are one of the classics of jewelry. They adorned the jewels of the ancients, men and women. And until a century ago the only ones available were natural ones, while today cultivated ones are more common. But do you think you know everything about pearls? Here are 24 aspects of pearls you probably don’t know yet.

If you want to know more about pearls read: All about pearls.

Collana di perle e diamanti di Yoko London

1 A graduated string of pearls most often has at least 3 millimeters of difference between the ends at the center of the necklace.
2 Fresh and salt water pearls seem quite similar to an inexperienced eye, but in reality they are classified as different biological families. Those of fresh water are part of the Unionidae family. Salt water pearls, on the other hand, grow inside the oysters of the Pteriidae family, which live in the oceans.
3 Pearls are an answer to an intruder: they form, in fact, inside the shell as a defense mechanism against something irritating that creeps into the oyster. The mollusk creates the pearl just to seal the irritation.

4 The brilliance of the pearls depends on the reflection, the refraction and the diffraction of light from the translucent layers: the layers in the pearl are thinner and numerous, the luster is finer.
5 The iridescence of pearls is caused by the superposition of successive layers, which breaks the light that falls on the surface.
5 Pearls (especially freshwater pearls) can be tinged with yellow, green, blue, brown, pink, purple or black.
6 Since pearls are mainly made of calcium carbonate, they can be dissolved in vinegar or lemon juice: do not let them fall into the salad!

Orecchini di Yoko London, perle e diamanti

7 Freshwater pearls are formed in lakes, rivers, ponds and other freshwater basins found in warmer climates. But they are also found in colder and more temperate areas such as Scotland (where they are protected by law).
8 Most of the freshwater cultured pearls sold today do not come from Japan, but from China.
9 However, Japan retains its status as a pearl processing center and imports most of the Chinese Akoya pearl production. These pearls are then worked (often simply ordered), re-labeled as a product of Japan and exported.

10 The commonly held belief that a grain of sand acts as an irritant to stimulate the growth of a natural pearl is actually a very rare case.
11 How do you distinguish a natural pearl from a cultivated one? An X-ray examination is the safest system: nucleated cultured pearls are often preformed, since they tend to follow the shape of the nucleus that has been implanted. Natural ones no.
12 The cultivated pearl can be harvested in a period ranging from 12 to 18 months for the Akoya, 2-4 years for Tahiti and the South Sea and 2-7 years for fresh water.

Bracciale di perle dorate e diamanti di Yoko London

13 A simple method to recognize the real pearls from imitations is to rub two spheres against each other. The false pearls are completely smooth, while the natural or cultivated ones are composed of mother-of-pearl plates, which make them slightly rough.
14 There are very few necklaces with natural pearl strands and they are often sold for hundreds of thousands of dollars.
15 Natural pearls are very rare: one of the places where they are still found is in the seas off Bahrain and Australia.

Il differente nucleo delle perle coltivate e naturali. Immagine da Wikipedia

16 Black pearls (called Tahitian pearls) are very rarely really black: they usually have shades of green, purple, aubergine, blue, gray, silver or peacock (a mix of different shades, like a peacock feather).
17 The South Sea pearls are the largest and rarest of cultured pearls, which makes them the most precious.
18 Pearls defined as Margaritas are extremely difficult to find today and are known for their unique yellowish color. The most famous Margarita necklace is the one that the then Venezuelan president Romulo Betancourt gave to Jacqueline Kennedy when she and her husband, President John F. Kennedy, were on an official visit to Venezuela.

Collana con perle di Tahiti e diamanti di Yoko London

19 Usually the invention of the process to cultivate pearls is attributed to Mikimoto. In fact, the way to get cultured pearls was developed by the British biologist William Saville-Kentin Australia and brought to Japan by Tokichi Nishikawa and Tatsuhei Mise. Nishikawa obtained the patent in 1916 and married Mikimoto’s daughter. Which was able to use Nishikawa’s technology.
20 For many traders and wholesalers of cultured pearls, the favorite weight measure used for loose pearls and pearl strands is momme, a measure traditionally used in Japan, which is equivalent to 3.75 grams.

21 The gloss is the main factor in differentiating the quality of the pearls according to the jewelers.

Anello con perla dorata South Sea e diamanti — Yoko London, anello con perla dorata South Sea e diamanti

22 But given the same factors, the dimension determines the value: bigger is the pearl, more precious it is.
23 Pearls are available in eight basic forms: round, semicircular, button, drop, pear, oval, baroque, rimmed and double boulder.
24 The pearl necklaces are classified into different types, according to the size: a collar (25-33 centimeters) often with several strands of pearls, a choker (35-41 centimeters), princess (43-48 centimeters) and matinees (50- 60 centimeters). Finally, the work size (70 to 90 centimeters) and sautoir, or pearl rope, (about 115 centimeters) are rarer.

La collana di Yoko London indossata con gli orecchini abbinati — Collana girocollo di Yoko London indossata con gli orecchini abbinati

Luxury Rudraksha by Alexandra Mor

Published on October 22, 2021

COLLANE/bracciale

Orecchini con fiori in legno di sawo intagliato e perle barocche indossati

Alexandra Mor and the rudraksha. You may not know what it is: rudraksha a stone-hard fruit produced by some large evergreen trees of the genus Elaeocarpus. The dried fruit is used to make rosaries for prayer by Hindus (especially Shaiva), but also by Buddhists, Sikhs and Muslims. Not only that: now rudraksha is also an element of high jewelry. But not only. Because the New York-based designer has also decided to use what is called vegetable ivory, that is, the tagua nuts, a product obtained from the seeds of some palm trees carved in the rudraksha style, alongside elements in Indonesian wood and South Sea’s pearls.

In short, high jewelery, but certainly out of the ordinary. The 22-karat yellow gold carved in Bali serves to connect the different pearls: it has motifs of tendrils, leaves and tendrils that intertwine, together with the Padmasana, or lotus flower, a flower that in Asia is full of symbolism. The line of jewelry made with these natural elements also has a charitable aspect: 10% of all profits from sales will go to Space for Giants, an international conservation organization that protects the great landscapes of African wildlife that it contains. elephants need to survive.

Collana con perle barocche dei Mari del Sud, perle di tagua intagliati rudraksha

Anello con un paio di-perle dei Mari del Sud, e perle di semi di tagua

Bracciale con perle di semi di tagua intagliati rudraksha, legno sawo, perle barocche

Collana con 14 perle dei Mari del Sud, perle di tagua, 9 topazi briolette e 23 diamanti

Orecchini con perle di semi di tagua intagliati rudraksha, legno sawo, perle barocche

How to choose a real pearl necklace

Published on October 14, 2021

COLLANE/Campus

Do you want to buy a real pearl necklace? Do you want to add a natural pearl necklace to your drawer because you are missing this indispensable jewel? Good idea. But you have to be careful because pearls are not all the same. Read what the differences are and how to choose a natural pearl necklace.

Collana di perle naturali, diamanti e rubini

You may have noticed that there are a lot of jewels around that are very cheap and use pearls, especially for necklaces. They are certainly not real pearls, but synthetic pearls, imitations created in a fake pearl factory. If you want a necklace of real, natural pearls, you have to spend a little more. But it’s worth it, because a pearl necklace is a classic piece of jewelry that has two advantages: it can be worn with virtually any outfit and on any occasion. And, moreover, it will maintain or increase in value over time.

Collana in oro 18 carati con diamanti colorati e perle barocche multicolori

If you are looking for a natural pearl necklace, however, you will have to choose between two different types of pearls: cultured and natural ones. What is the difference? We explain it immediately.
Let’s start by saying, however, that both types of pearls, cultured and natural, are authentic pearls.

A cultured pearl is a pearl through and through. In fact, it is formed inside an oyster or a mollusk just like non-cultured pearls. The difference is that in cultured pearls the pearly spheres that will end up on your necklace are the result of human action. In the large farms in which they are immersed, tiny irritating elements or tiny beads are inserted into the shells around which a larger pearl is then formed. This system was born in Japan at the end of the nineteenth century and was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto, who then patented this process. It’s a big job: for example, a jeweler and pearl producer like Autore, in Australia, gets around 350,000 pearls from his aquatic farms every year.

Una farm per la coltivazione delle perle

Cultured pearls have another advantage: the control of producers allows you to have oysters that produce very quickly and with greater consistency. They are high quality authentic pearls, with a large variety of colors and sizes, and are sold at a moderate price (but don’t think they are cheap).

Cultivating pearls, either in salt water or in fresh water, also allows you to obtain different sizes and colors more easily. In fact, there are many shades that pearls can have. In addition to the white ones, there are golden, purple, blue and pink pearls. Furthermore, they can have different sizes and volumes in addition to the classic sphere.
Read also: All about pearls https://gioiellis.com/tutto-sulle-perle/

Natural pearls, on the other hand, are defined in this way because they are formed without human intervention. It is the case that pushes a grain of sand or an impurity around which the mother of pearl is formed inside the oyster or mollusk. Obviously, it is a rather rare event. Also, the pearl is formed over a longer time than cultured pearls. For this reason, natural pearls cost much more than cultured ones. The large number of ships and pollution have increased the difficulty in identifying a mollusk with a natural pearl: only one shell out of thousands contains a pearl that was formed in nature. A strand of natural South Sea pearls, for example, can cost as much as 100,000 euros or dollars. And the fact that natural pearls are increasingly rare suggests that they will cost more and more.

Bottom line: both cultured pearls and natural pearls are authentic pearls. But all pearls, both cultured and natural, can be very different. It is therefore important to buy a pearl necklace from a trusted seller, preferably with a guarantee certificate from a gemological laboratory or institute.

Collana di perle naturali grigie e diamanti

Utopia in Aqua

Published on September 30, 2021

COLLANE/Showroom

Pearls are born from different shell families. But all shells have one thing in common: they live in water. The Aqua collection by Utopia is dedicated to the natural element that surrounds the shells. The idea is to use high quality freshwater pearls for designer jewelry, with a casual look. To compose the jewels, the Milanese Maison uses pearls of different sizes and with different shades of color. The combination of Akoya and Tahitian pearls thus create seductive color combinations. The collection includes sautoir, drop earrings and chocker, for a line of prêt-à-porter jewels.

The Aqua collection stands out from other proposals of the Utopia brand, such as Bouquet, which includes jewels more traditionally combined with pink sapphires or small white and champagne diamonds, to form jewels with rounded shapes. The Utopia brand is owned by Gaia, an Italian company that has been operating internationally for over 70 years in the production and distribution of high quality precious stones, diamonds and pearls, in particular South Sea Pearls.

Collana doppio filo della colelzione Aqua

Anello Bouquet con perle e diamanti e fancy

Orecchini Bouquet con perle, zaffiri rosa e diamanti

Rosa Van Parys between architecture and jewelry

Published on September 14, 2021

COLLANE/Showroom

Collana con perla di Tahiti e perle Akoya, tsavoriti e zaffiri rosa

Often jewelers are inspired by architecture, especially for art deco jewels. But it is quite rare for a jeweler to also carry out the profession of architect. And this is precisely the story of Rosa Van Parys, who reached the final in the Best in Pearls category at the Couture Design Awards. Yet jewelry was not a casual choice nor a forced one. The Rosa Van Parys architecture and design studio was successful when she decided to launch her Maison in 2017 and her first high jewelery collection.

The Ecuador-born designer studied in Europe, graduated in architecture and in the United States from the Harvard Graduate School of Design and now lives and works in Westlake Village, a suburb north of Los Angeles. It goes without saying that her jewels retain an inspiration linked to geometry and architectural design. The focus, in fact, is on composition, balance, shape, symmetry and color. Pearls are a key element for the designer, who has also launched pieces of a line of men’s jewelry, which also includes elaborate dagger-shaped pendants. Also because, even though she designs jewelry, Rosa Van Parys has not abandoned the activity related to architecture: she, together with her husband, directs a ten-person studio.

Anello Anaconda, in oro giallo e brunito, tsavoriti, zaffiri rosa

Collana in oro giallo con pavé di diamanti

Collana dedicata al tennis in oro giallo, con pavé di diamanti e di zaffiri rosa

Collana in oro giallo e brunito, perla di Tahiti, zaffiri rosa

Collana in oro giallo e brunito, perle di Tahiti, diamanti

Do you still like pearls?

Published on September 4, 2021

news

Even in the most ancient jewels the pearl was a star. Pearls have always been considered a classic in the world of jewelry, loved by queens and princesses, but also by women in general. But now? Do pearls retain their charm? What do the younger generations think? These questions are answered by a survey conducted in the USA by the Cultured Pearl Association of American and carried out by Mvi Marketing. Of course, the survey was conducted on American consumers, but it is very likely that the results differ not much from those that would be achieved in other countries.

Bracciale da mano Asteroid in oro giallo 18kt con perle 1 — Bracciale in oro e perle di Tasaki

The study was conducted July 19-24 with questionnaires to 1,012 people who bought at least $ 200 worth of jewelry in the past three years. The respondents are between the ages of 25 and 55, 73% female, while 27% male. The identikit also considers a family income of over $ 50,000. Additionally, 73 percent of the survey respondents were white, 9 percent African American, 9 percent of Asian descent, and 6 percent Latin American.

Result: pearls are among the favorite materials and 66% indicate that they have at least one jewel with the white spheres, daughter of the sea. Of this share, 69% own a string of pearls and 62% have pearl earrings. Again: 65% say they have at least one family jewel in their collection. And 46% say that pearls are a very common purchase, both because they are also bought for themselves as well as as a gift. Pearls are also linked to special occasions: 52% bought or received pearl jewelry for a birthday, while 46% for an anniversary. Young people like them too: Consumers between the ages of 25 and 35 think pearls are exceptional.

Giovanni Ferraris, anelli Vanity con perle

There are also two new trends among younger consumers: men wearing pearls and pearl engagement rings. Men between the ages of 25 and 45, in particular, are interested in wearing pearl jewelry: 42% of those aged 25 to 35 and 47% of those aged 36 to 45, compared to 16% of men aged between 46 and 55 years old.

But, unfortunately, there are also negative aspects: for example, the general lack of information on the world of pearls. 81% of consumers have heard of cultured pearls, but only 34% know what it means and 60% do not know the connection between pearls and sustainability. In addition, 23% go against the tide and think that pearls belong to their grandmother’s time and 8% consider them outdated.