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Gismondi 1754 buys Vendorafa

Published on April 7, 2023

Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: Gioiellis.com

Gismondi 1754 buys the historic Vendorafa Lombardi from the Lvmh group. The company, active since 1951, had passed under the banner of the French group last year, with the transfer of Pendemonte to which Vendorafa belongs, by the private equity fund Equinox III Slp Sif. Now the French giant sees Vendorafa and some of the company’s assets. The trademark and annexes went to Gismondi 1754 for 608,000 euros.

Vendorafa was born as a jeweler with its own brand and, over the years, has also started the design and creation of exclusive lines for major international brands. With over 70 years of history, Vendorafa’s jewels are distinguished by their manual processes, such as hammering, engraving and embossing and are a symbol of Valencian craftsmanship exported all over the world. The operation will allow Gismondi 1754 to integrate the Vendorafa brand into the Group, which will maintain its identity, brand and commercial positioning on the market.

Bracciale in oro giallo con malachite e diamanti di Vendorafa

Vendorafa products are historically recognizable for the completely handcrafted processes that enhance the value of gold, its light and its aesthetic warmth. A very strong point of contact with Gismondi 1754, which for centuries has exalted the craftsmanship and Italian spirit of manufacturing, albeit in different types of jewellery: the Gismondi 1754 collections are more iconic and high-end, while more daily use and based on metalworking those of Vendorafa. On the market, therefore, the two brands will continue to represent their different image and clientele independently, but sharing the important production and commercial synergies.

Anello Marea in oro bianco, diamanti e tanzaniti di Gismondi 1754

The operation has a strong strategic value for the Gismondi 1754 Group. In addition to acquiring the total inheritance of the Valencian brand, with the designs, the historical collections, the stock of some iconic jewels and the production machinery, it will also carry on the large and recognized international presence of Vendorafa, with particular reference to the USA and Japan.

As far as the United States is concerned, the Valencia brand is present both in 30 qualified retailers, both in wholesale chains (Saks, Neiman Marcus), and in independent jewelers that sell primary luxury brands, such as Brigham, Louis Anthony, Diamond Genesis , A.Marek, Louis Anthony and many others. In Japan, Vendorafa is distributed by Unoaerre Japan, and this represents an opportunity for immediate development also for Gismondi 1754, which does not yet have a widespread presence in that market.

This operation has a double meaning in the growth path of our Group, which combines the industrial and commercial vision that we have in mind and on which to lay the foundations of our development. This represents the first of a series of acquisitions, between now and the medium term, aimed at strengthening the Group’s presence in the sector. An operation that also brings with it the sentiment and will to safeguard and give strength to SMEs, which are the true guardians of Made in Italy that the whole world envies us. I believe it is increasingly necessary to provide a space in which work ethics and respect for the individual find a vital environment in which to work and grow. With Vendorafa we give continuity and strength to an international brand; I was immediately struck by the common roots in our motto “handmade in Italy by Italians” which distinguishes us and with which we enhance Italian craftsmanship and high specialization in the goldsmith sector. We are truly proud to keep the essence of a brand like Vendorafa alive and bring it into our Group, which for seven generations has represented and defended the ethics, tradition and quality of manufacturing in our country.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

The operation of Gismondi 1754, the historic Genoese jewelery Maison, takes place after the announcement of the results for 2022, with a consolidated production value of 15.2 million euros (+52% compared to 2021), Ebitda (gross margin ) at 3 million (+213% compared to the previous year) and a consolidated net profit of 1.6 million, also showing a strong increase (+364%). Other data communicated by the company, listed on the Euronext Growth Milan list of Borsa Italiana, concern the consolidated shareholders’ equity at 11.0 million (+20%) and the net financial position at 3 million (debt compared to 290 thousand in 2021).

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione Vela di Gismondi 1754

Repossi high jewelery with La Ligne

Published on February 5, 2023

alta gioielleria

Fine jewelry, but no frills. Luxurious, rich, but essential jewels: clean, modern lines, with clear geometries. Also for Repossi, the brand founded by Gaia Repossi and now part of the Lvmh group, the time has come for a very high-end collection, with a leap in quality compared to the production of medium-high-end jewels created by the Italian designer who moved to Paris . The collection includes 15 pieces and was presented on the occasion of the couture week, it is called La Ligne, a name that is also in line with the denomination of previous works by Gaia Repossi.

Bracciale in oro bianco con diamanti per 9,27 carati

Open and closed, spatial concept, empty and full: these are the concepts of contrast at the basis of the collection. Circles and straight lines represent the geometry of the volumes, while diamonds are used as points of light to underline the structure of the jewels, made in polished white gold. Rings, necklaces and large bracelets take up and expand the brand’s design lines, but in a more opulent dimension.

Collana in oro bianco con diamanti per 15,5 carati

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione La Ligne

New Liens for Chaumet

Published on January 13, 2023

Showroom

Ciondolo Jeux de Liens Harmony in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri

Chaumet, the high jewelery Maison that is part of the Lvmh group, presented new pieces from the Liens collection, which is inspired by sentimental ties. The jewels are made of pink and white gold, with or without pavé of small diamonds, through a recurring design in the Maison’s creations. The jewelery collection therefore includes pieces such as Liens Évidence, with an element reminiscent of a suspension bridge.

Anello Liens Évidence in oro bianco e diamanti

The rings are now also available as a pendant. Jeux de Liens, a variant of the collection, features pieces with the motif of crossed links. The pendant is also available in a more voluminous shape, inspired by the infinity symbol. The pieces are in white gold with the addition of sapphires. Then there are the jewels of the Jeux de Liens Harmony line, which use gold for medallions with a sunburst finish. Complementing the existing models in rose gold with pavé diamonds, a new mid-size version will join the Harmony family in March 2023.

Collana e pendente in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti

Collana con pendente Liens Évidence in oro rosa e diamanti

Anello Jeux de Liens Harmony in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri

Ciondolo Jeux de Liens Harmony in oro giallo e diamanti

Two novelties from Hublot with Cheval Blanc Randheli

Published on January 11, 2023

Orologi

Il Big Bang One click presenta un quadrante con 11 brillanti diamanti bianchi

A luxury souvenir from the Maldives: the collaboration between Cheval Blanc Randheli and Hublot has lasted since 2016 and the result is the watch inspired by the archipelago island in the Indian Ocean. The timepiece has reached its ninth anniversary and Hublot has decided to commemorate its partnership with Cheval Blanc, an exclusive resort in Randheli, with limited editions of the Big Bang Unico and Big Bang One Click watches, each in 25 numbered pieces.

The taupe nuances of Cheval Blanc and the pop yellow sun of Randheli are the shades of the two timepieces, offered with a white and warm gray alligator strap and a shiny yellow ceramic bezel. The dials in defined taupe tones reflect the colors of the warm wooden bridges and elegant decorative elements that adorn the Maison. The dial of the Big Bang Unico is matte dark brown, while the Big Bang One click features a dial set with 11 brilliant white diamonds. The watches come with an additional white line rubber strap, giving you the option to tweak the style.

Il quadrante del Big Bang Unico è di un color marrone scuro opaco

Lvmh conquers Pedemonte (and Vendorafa)

Published on November 26, 2022

news

Lavorazione di gioielli nel laboratorio di Pedemonte Group

A large portion of Italian jewelery emigrates to France, to Paris. He doesn’t move the laboratories, but the property. Pedemonte Group, controlled by the Equinox III SLP SIF investment fund, was sold to the giant LVMH, which already has brands such as Bulgari, Tiffany, Chaumet, Fred and Repossi. The Pedemonte group is above all a third-party jewelery manufacturer, with offices in Italy (in Valenza and Valmadonna, in Piedmont) and France. But it also produces its own collections under the Vendorafa brand, internationally recognized as the flagship of Made in Italy since 1951 for its unique style and manufacturing excellence.

With this strategic acquisition, the LVMH group is further strengthened in Italy, continuing to support the ecosystem of companies that contribute to the success of our Houses. With Pedemonte, our Maisons will rely on a partner recognized for its savoir-faire, in order to support their growth and maintain their leadership in jewelry.
Toni Belloni, General Manager of LVMH

Now the purchase of Pedemonte will allow Lvmh to further increase its production capacity. The Pedemonte group was born in 2020 from the merger of several independent production laboratories and has conquered a prominent place in the high-end jewelry market. It employs 350 craftsmen and employees.

Tiffany opens the laboratory to the public (for three days)

Published on October 14, 2022

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According to the latest quarterly data, LVMH group’s jewelry and watch sales increased 25% year-on-year to € 2.67 billion ($ 2.6 billion). For the first nine months, the category’s revenues increased 23% to 7.58 billion euros (7.38 billion dollars). This is to say that jewels count a lot for the group led by Bernard Aranult. And the magical touch of the French entrepreneur is also felt for Tiffany & Co., conquered two years ago and already integrated between Louis Vuitton bags and Moët Hennessy champagne. For example, Tiffany will participate in Lvmh’s Journées Particulières: it is a three-day showcase that aims to enhance (even if there is no need for it) the savoir faire of the French Maison.

Interno del laboratorio Tiffany a New York

Originally launched in 2011 by Antoine Arnault, CEO of Berluti and director of communications at Louis Vuitton, Les Journées Particulières is a summa of the craftsmanship of the brands linked to the group. Tiffany will be attending this event for the first time and showcase its 185-year history of craftsmanship through the Jewelry Design and Innovation Workshop located in New York City. The facility is located near the Maison’s legendary office on Fifth Avenue and is designed as a hub for creativity and product innovation.

Tiffany’s legendary savoir-faire is shown in an immersive experience with a direct insight into the world of Tiffany & Co. craftsmanship.There is no better time to bring Tiffany to the Journées Particulières, highlighting our world-renowned craftsmanship alongside that of the most esteemed Maison of Lvmh.
Anthony Ledru, CEO of Tiffany & Co

As part of its recently launched social impact program, Tiffany Atrium, Tiffany & Co. has partnered with Harlem’s Fashion Row and North Carolina A&T State University to launch a ten-week lecture series focused on design and innovation of jewels. Students selected from the program will have the opportunity to travel to New York City and visit the JDIW during the Journées Particulières, followed by career and networking panels with Tiffany & Co professionals.
Les Journées Particulières is open to the public from Friday 14 October to Sunday 16 October at the Tiffany & Co. JDIW, located at 53 West 23rd Street in New York City. Small group appointments will be staggered over the weekend for an optimal experience.

Bracciali Tiffany Lock — Bracciali della collezione Tiffany Lock

The precious Spirit of Louis Vuitton

Published on July 5, 2022

COLLANE/Showroom/Rings

What distinguishes a high jewelry collection from another? The design, the stones used, the style of those who conceived it. Agree. But there is more. A jewel is unmistakable only if, alongside the opulence of its elements, materials and gems, it also retains its own spirit, something more that determines its charm. As in the case of the 125 pieces of high jewelery presented by Louis Vuitton in a collection called Spirit. It is the fourth creation with the Maison of the Lvmh group of Francesca Amfitheatrof, the most cosmopolitan creative director of the globe (American father of Russian origin, Italian mother, born in Japan, studied in London and worked in New York, and now in Paris) .

Collana con diamanti, smeraldi della Colombia e zaffiro dello Sri Lanka di 18,08 carati

The spirit in question, the one born with Monsieur Louis Vuitton’s first-class suitcases, is the classic flower monogram, which occurs together with the initials LV in the French brand’s jewels. But, unlike other big names in fashion and jewelry, in this case it is perfectly integrated into the jewelry. For example, a new diamond cut with the shape of the monogram flower has been introduced and patented. Spirit is also the largest collection of fine jewelry ever created by the Maison, which in total required some 40,000 hours of work. Another feature of the collection is that it includes many decomposable jewels.

Collana a tre fili Destiny con diamanti anche con il nuovo taglio monogram flower

Spirit is high jewelery, with unique pieces and stones. Like the Art Nouveau necklace with lots of diamonds and, above all, a royal blue sapphire from Sri Lanka weighing 18.08 carats. For this necklace Francesca Amfitheatrof used a diamond mosaic together with a hinge mechanism like that of the trunks, together with emeralds from Colombia, with an 8.90 carat gemstone, and a 2.60 carat D VVS1 diamond in the characteristic Monogram Flower cut.

Collana Grace con mosaico di diamanti e tsavorite di 65,26 carati

The Grace necklace has a double V design. It was crafted from custom cut baguette diamonds, with round diamonds curving in a soft wave on white gold. And most importantly, a huge 65.26-carat tsavorite hangs from the necklace. The stone is also a detachable pendant. The necklace took 2,000 hours of work and is accompanied by rings with the same materials and the same style.

Among the exceptional gems in the collection there is also a Mozambican ruby of over 10 carats, with an intense red hue with an unusual emerald cut. It is applied, together with others, to a necklace and can be detached and then applied to a diamond ring, which in turn can be broken down and added to the necklace. In short, a very precious game.

Collana con diamanti e rubini del Mozambico. La pietra centrale è di oltre 10 carati

Collana con diamanti, smeraldi e zaffiro, a cui si aggiunge un diamante D VVS1 da 2,60 carati nel taglio Monogram Flower

Collana Radiance in platino, oro, diamanti, granato centrale di 10,99 carati staccabile — Collana Radiance in platino, oro, diamanti, granato mandarino centrale di 10,99 carati staccabile

Bracciale Fantasy in oro, diamanti, onice. Anche in questo caso è presente un diamante con taglio monogram flower

Bracciale Radiance in platino, oro, diamanti, granato centrale — Bracciale Radiance in platino, oro, diamanti, granato mandarino centrale

Cartier vs Tiffany, war in court

Published on March 3, 2022

news/Tiffany

War in court between Cartier and Tiffany. The two giants of jewelry, which respectively belong to the Swiss group Richemont and the French LVMH, compete in front of the judges of New York. In essence, Cartier accuses Tiffany of hiring Megan Marino, a junior manager, only to steal the secrets about the new collections. And, therefore, to have stolen trade secrets on its high-end jewelry. According to Cartier’s accusation, Tiffany’s focus is on the high jewelry collection, the famous Blue Book. These are jewels that have prices ranging from 50,000 dollars or euros up to 10 million each.

Tiffany, Fifth Avenue, New York, in occasione del lancio della collezione Paper Flowers

Cartier, in the subpoena filed in court, went down hard: he accused Tiffany of wanting to resurrect his own high jewelry unit after she was left in disarray due to several departures. Also according to the Swiss group, reports the Reuters agency, the move in the opinion of Cartier reflects the “disturbing culture of Tiffany of misappropriation of information about the competition”. The manager also signed a six-month non-compete agreement with Cartier.

Johann Rupert, Ceo e azionista di Richemont

The battle is only just beginning. Tiffany fired Marino after just five weeks. But the manager said in response that Tiffany was “more interested in hiring me as a source of information than as a high-jewelry manager.” Obviously these are all accusations rejected by Tiffany, which heralds a legal battle. For the Swiss group, in any case, business is not bad: in 2021 the sales of the Richemont jewelry brands (Cartier, Buccellati and Van Cleef & Arpels) increased by 38%.

Collana multigemma dal Tiffany Blue Book 2021

Anello Parhelia, con uno zaffiro blu cabochon da 21,51 carati, circondato da diamanti e smeraldi. Foto di Maxime Govet — Anello Parhelia di Cartier, con uno zaffiro blu cabochon da 21,51 carati, circondato da diamanti e smeraldi. Foto di Maxime Govet

Le Soleil d’Or, super diamond signed by Fred

Published on December 7, 2021

Showroom

In the French group LVMH, the largest cluster of luxury brands, from Tiffany to Dior, from Bulgari to Chaumet (but the complete list would be very long) there is also Fred, a Maison with roots that go back to the 1930s. Although most of Fred’s jewelry can be qualified as fine jewelry, of moderate luxury, often with a sporty design like the best-known collection, Force 10, the brand is ready to unleash an exceptional hit: a large yellow diamond, called Soleil d’Or. The stone, which marked the history of the Maison, is now returning to Fred’s heritage, 44 years after its first presentation to the public.

Margaux Hemingway con il diamante Soleil d'Or — Margaux Hemingway con il diamante Soleil d’Or

It is a maxi stone: it weighs 101.57 carats and has a color classified as fancy intense yellow, which places it among the gems of great value. The Soleil d’Or diamond was named in 1977 by the founder, Henri Samuel. The gem will be visible to the public in the fall of 2022, in Paris, in a retrospective exhibition on the brand. Before its official presentation, almost half a century ago, the stone was the focus of a lunch attended by the press and some friends of the Maison, such as actress Margaux Hemingway, who was portrayed with the diamond. Cheerful note: Margaux Hemingway, while she handled the stone, pretended to lose it. After a few moments of chaos, the actress made her reappear between her teeth.

Le Soleil d'Or, 101,57 carati, fancy intense yellow — Le Soleil d’Or, 101,57 carati, fancy intense yellow

Collezione Force 10, bracciale in oro giallo

Anello Force 10 in oro rosa e cavo di acciaio

Orecchino Force 10 in oro rosa e cavo di acciaio

Fred, interchangeable tango

Published on June 15, 2021

Showroom

Un set Pain de Sucre con gemma intercambiabile

Rings with interchangeable stones, or bracelets with an iconic clasp: these are the jewels of Fred, brand of the LVMH group ♦

The tango of interchangeable ring starts from Buenos Aires, Argentina, where in 1908 was born Fred Samuel, son of a French jeweler who emigrated. From Paris to what, then, it was a promised land, rich. Where he brought his experience in pearls: in the Argentine capital were the best examples in the world. But, over time, the name of Fred Samuel has become synonymous with colored stones. A spark started when he received a commission in 1950 by the king of Nepal. A passion that has grown: in 1977, Fred Samuel presented a yellow diamond of 105.54 carats, regarded as one of the most extraordinary in the world.

Anello della collezione Force 10 in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti

Then came the turn of his two sons, who continued his interests: the jewels and the sea. So much so that in 1966 his eldest son presented the first collection inspired by marine cables: bracelets with a gold or silver buckle that still are one of the brand’s flagship products. But the brand has never lost contact with Europe: among its customers there was the royal family of Monaco, with Princess Grace who was at the inauguration of the Monte Carlo boutique. And it is also by Fred the Necklace Richard Gere offers Julia Roberts in the movie Pretty Woman.

Bracciale Force 10 in oro rosa e diamanti bianchi e neri

Fred was also the first jewelry brand acquired by LVMH in 1996. The brand is best known for its sailing-inspired Force 10 bracelet with buckle and cable. But, as mentioned, Fred is also synonymous with bespoke jewelry with Pain de Sucre collection with an original solution: a base ring, that is the metal band, on which you can change the stones, cut into sugar loaf as topaz, rubellite, turquoise: 33 different versions are available, even with the addition of diamonds. Ingenious.

Anello Pain de Sucre in oro rosa, diamanti e ametista

Anello Pain de Sucre in oro bianco, diamanti e tormalina

Anello in oro rosa con tormalina Paraiba

Orecchini Chance Infinie in oro rosa, diamanti e rubini

The (denied) rumors of a Kering-Richemont marriage

Published on March 24, 2021

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François-Henri Pinault, al centro, tra la moglie Salma Hayek (a sinistra) e Jane Fonda (a destra)

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Boucheron marrying Piaget. Pomellato getting engaged to Cartier. Qeelin having a flirt with Buccellati. Is she a fairy tale? No, it is the hypothesis launched by the Miss Tweed website which hypothesizes an attempt at an approach between two luxury groups: Kering by François-Henri Pinault and Richemont by Johann Rupert. According to the indiscretion gathered by the site, in January, in great secrecy the CEO and shareholder of Kering, Pinault, presented an informal offer of marriage between the two companies to the president and owner of Richemont, Rupert.

What worries Pinault would be the new dimension of the rival LVMH, after the merger with Tiffany & Co. The reactions of the two groups, however, do not seem to confirm the rumors. Both Kering and Richemont have denied that they intend to discuss an upcoming merger between the two luxury giants. Pinault, among other things, said last February that Kering intends to focus on organic growth, that is, of its current business. But it must also be added that in the financial world, things can change rapidly and that the international dimension of LVMH worries the two players.

La sede di Richemont a Bellevue (Ginevra, Svizzera)

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati con 1 spinello rosso taglio cuscino dalla Tanzania e 94 diamanti di Piaget, gruppo Richemont

Anello con malachite e smeraldi — Pomellato (gruppo Kering), anello con malachite e smeraldi

Lvmh changes the management of Tiffany

Published on January 7, 2021

news/Tiffany

Lo store di Tiffany all'angolo tra la 57a Strada e Fifth Avenue, New York

The record of jewelry sold during the run-up to Christmas was not enough for CEO, Alessandro Bogliolo, to keep his place at the top of Tiffany. The French luxury group LVMH, a few hours after the ratification of the acquisition of the most famous US jewelry brand, has appointed the new top management of Tiffany. The appointments conclude the $ 15.8 billion acquisition of the historic US jewelry firm, which came after a bitter legal battle, with LVMH trying to evade the deal at the height of the covid-19 pandemic, which hit hard the luxury sector. LVMH and Tiffany therefore agreed to renegotiate the price of the deal, which was reduced to $ 425 million.

But let’s get to the news: LVMH has appointed Anthony Ledru, top manager of the Louis Vuitton brand, as CEO of Tiffany. Alessandro Bogliolo leaves Tiffani starting from 22 January. Alexandre Arnault, one of the sons of Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, also joins the American Maison. Alexandre will assume the role of executive vice president and head of production and communications, while Michael Burke, CEO and president of Vuitton, will become president of Tiffany.

A super diamond for Tiffany

Published on January 5, 2021

COLLANE/Tiffany/news

A great diamond for a great jewel. Who knows if the 80-carat super diamond purchased by Tiffany is the echo of a grandeur with a French flavor, given that the announcement follows the conclusion of the operation that brought the American Maison into LVMH‘s orbit within hours ago? But this would be a mischievous deduction.

In any case, Tiffany & Co has announced the re-edition of a historic high jewelery necklace made in 1939. The original jewel, however, mounts an aquamarine, while the new necklace will be enriched with an oval diamond of over 80 carats, the largest diamond ever proposed by Tiffany, surpassed only by the Tiffany Diamond (which is not for sale).

Lo schizzo della nuova collana e il diamante ovale da 80 carati

The diamond necklace will be unveiled in 2022, to celebrate the reopening of the refurbished Tiffany Fifth Avenue flagship store, and will go down in history just like the original necklace, which was unveiled at the Universal Exposition in Queens, New York.

What better way to celebrate the reopening of the Tiffany flagship store in 2022 than to reinterpret this incredible necklace from the 1939 Universal Exposition, one of our most famous jewels that dates back to when we first opened our doors between 57th and Fifth streets Avenue. The new necklace perfectly reflects our tradition as a New York luxury jeweler whose founder was known as the King of Diamonds.
Victoria Reynolds, Chief Gemologist of Tiffany & Co

La collana originale con acquamarina e diamanti

The oval diamond of over 80 carats has a degree of purity IF, color D. It is a very rare quality but, underlines Tiffany, it is also the symbol of the approach adopted for the traceability of diamonds: the Maison is the first company in the sector to adopt this policy. The diamond is sourced from Botswana, Africa, from a responsible supply chain, and will be mounted by Tiffany artisans in New York.

The original necklace, called Dawn of a New Day, was shown at the 1939 Universal Exposition and also served to set the stage for the opening of the iconic flagship store between 57th Street and Fifth Avenue the following year, the 1940.

Agreement: LVMH buys Tiffany with a discount

Published on October 30, 2020

news/Tiffany

Breakfast at Tiffany’s, with discount. The French group LVMH gets the go-ahead to purchase Tiffany, but at a lower figure than that agreed a year ago: the coronavirus has hit luxury purchases and, therefore, had called the agreement into question. LVMH’s step backwards had sparked a legal battle: the next step would take place before an American court next January. Instead, peace came.

L'anello in oro rosa Tiffany T1 — Anello in oro rosa Tiffany T1

LVMH has reached an agreement to acquire Tiffany at $ 131.5 per share, less than the initially agreed $ 135. The new proposal equates to a price for the American luxury brand of 15.96 billion dollars. The discounted price offers a slight premium (+ 1.2%) over the close ($ 129.95) on the Tiffany Stock Exchange on Wednesday on Wall Street. The agreement reached (which still requires a final approval by the shareholders’ meetings) allows the French to save over 400 million compared to an agreement valued a year ago over 16 billion dollars. And, above all, to have wide access to the star and stripes luxury market.

Goodbye Baselworld, Hour Universe arrives

Published on October 15, 2020

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Hour Universe. The after Baselworld is (also) a play on words. Hour, an English word that indicates the time span of 60 minutes, also resembles to ours. In short, a universe that alludes to the concept of time, that measured by watches. After the sensational suicide of Baselworld, the most famous fair dedicated to jewelery and watches, the organizing company Mch has changed everything.

Hour Universe will take place in Basel from 8 to 12 April 2021, covid permitting. The new initiative is described as a hybrid platform for the watch, jewelry and gemstone community with a modern digital offering throughout the year, combined with physical meetings at the show. The planned and inclusive live event aims to facilitate networking and provide an experience based on the needs of exhibitors and visitors.
Mch also promises a new hospitality concept based on fair prices and supported by the local hotel industry. The exorbitant costs for participating in Baselworld were the deterrent that put the fair in crisis.

Uno degli allestimenti a Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Will Hour Universe be able to convince the big groups that have left Baselworld? It will not be easy. The big names in the luxury sector not only said goodbye, but also organized other events. Companies such as the LVMH Group greeted Baselworld, with brands that include Tag Heuer, Hublot and Zenith and the Maison Bvlgari, as well as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chanel and Chopard, Swatch and many others, including major jewelry brands. Many will participate in Watches & Wonders Geneva, an event that also brought the format to China. Other brands will organize events on their own. In short, the road to Hour Universe seems to be uphill.

Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Il booth di Jacob a Baselworld — Il booth di Jacob & Co a Baselworld

LVMH stop on Tiffany, who starts legal action

Published on September 9, 2020

news/Tiffany

Surprise in the world of jewelry: LVMH has gone into reverse and announced that it will no longer buy Tiffany & Co. And the American company has taken legal action to challenge the turnaround. The first doubts about the real intention of Monsieur Bernard Arnault’s French group to proceed, as agreed last autumn, with the purchase of the American giant had emerged at the end of spring when the board of directors of the French luxury company (Christian Dior, Bulgari, DKNY, Fendi, Céline, Guerlain, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loro Piana, Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Hennessy) had expressed perplexity regarding the agreed price of $ 16.2 billion. The covid, which depressed the sector’s sales, was (maybe) the cause. But, says Tiffany, the pacts must be respected.

The New York Maison led by Alessandro Bogliolo (among other things, a former manager of Bulgari, who is now part of LVMH) has announced that it has already filed a lawsuit with the Court of Chancery of the State of Delaware. In fact, LVMH had already asked to postpone the definitive signature to November 24, three months after the date agreed almost a year ago, but in any case on the basis of a clause in the contract. According to the British newspaper Financial Times, on the decision of the giant LVMH also weighs a request from the French government to renounce the agreement in order not to undermine an ongoing trade war with the United States.

Tiffany makes diamonds traceable

Published on August 19, 2020

news/Tiffany

Ethically correct jewelry: it is a need that is increasingly requested by those who buy a precious object. In short, gold and diamonds must not come from mines that ruin the environment or exploit those who work there. With this premise, in October Tiffany & Co. will take a further step forward in terms of diamond traceability. The jewelry giant that passed under the insignia of the French group LVMH will disclose the entire processing path of its recently procured individually registered diamonds (starting from 0.18 carats).

In practice, those who buy a Tiffany jewel with diamonds will also know the country in which each stone is worked and mounted. This transparency, Tiffany points out, represents a first in the sector and follows what was announced a year ago, namely that the company would become the first luxury jeweler globally to indicate the origin (region or countries of origin) of its registered diamonds individually.

Diamante Tiffany nel laboratorio alle Mauritius

Today, our commitment to diamond traceability takes it one step further. Our customers deserve to know that a Tiffany diamond meets the highest standards, not only in terms of quality, but also in terms of environmental and social responsibility. We believe that diamond traceability is the best way to guarantee both.
Anisa Kamadoli Costa, Chief Sustainability Officer of Tiffany & Co

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa)

Information relating to the region or country of origin, the place where each diamond was cut, polished, graded and certified and then mounted on a piece of jewelry, will be shared with customers for each newly procured individually registered diamond (obviously this is not is possible for jewelry made in the past). This information may be disclosed by any Tiffany & Co. expert and will also be contained within the Tiffany Diamond Certificate.

Among the luxury jewelers on a global level, adds the American Maison, Tiffany & Co. is the only brand to own and manage five diamond processing laboratories around the world, where over 1,500 artisans work to enhance the maximum brilliance. scattering and sparkling of the stones, not just the carat weight. Thanks to these proprietary laboratories in Belgium, Mauritius, Botswana, Vietnam and Cambodia, as well as the Tiffany Gemological Laboratory in New York and five jewelry manufacturing laboratories in North America, the company is able to guarantee that its standards are met. superlatives.

Telling the Tiffany diamond processing journey reflects decades of investment in our supply chain. Among the luxury jewelers, Tiffany is the only one to directly source rough diamonds extracted in a responsible way, to work and mount such diamonds, respecting its own standards in its own laboratories.
Andrew Hart, Senior Vice President Diamond and Jewelry Supply at Tiffany & Co

Diamante nel laboratorio Tiffany di Anversa

Does LVMH abandon the purchase of Tiffany?

Published on June 3, 2020

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Accordin to Women’s Wear Daily, the website that is the most accredited in the fashion business, the acquisition of Tiffany & Co by LVMH wobbles. The $ 16.2 billion deal for the purchase of the American jewelry giant would be challenged by the impact of the covid-19 epidemic, which would be heavy. The newspaper reports some more details: the members of the LVMH board of directors would meeted in Paris on June 2 to discuss the matter. Last November, LVMH agreed to acquire Tiffany for 135 per share. In early June, however, the shares are worth less: around $ 128. But this is not the point.

The French giant led by Monsieur Bernard Arnault is concerned about the impact of the coronavirus pandemic, which has caused over 100,000 victims in America and an economic crisis, but also about the unrest caused by the death of George Floyd in Minneapolis. The guerrilla climate in many cities indicates a very difficult situation also in perspective, the members of the LVMH board of directors probably think.

Not only. According to article from the Women’s Wear Daily, the same members of the LVMH board are concerned about Tiffany’s ability to cope with the financial deadlines of the coming months. The doubts raised, without being officially confirmed, could also be a simple signal of the will to renegotiate the agreement reached. But also the indication of a sensational rethink that could lead to a backtrack by the French.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione TT1

Débacle Baselworld, also leaves Lvmh

Published on April 17, 2020

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If anyone ever had doubts, the coup de grace has came to Baselworld. The execution is in the form of a statement from the LVMH group. The Swiss watch manufacturers of the Lvmh Group, which include Tag Heuer, Hublot and Zenith and the Maison Bvlgari, took note of the abandonment of Baselworld by Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chanel and Chopard, says the official note of the French group . “In this context of evident weakening of representativeness of the Swiss watch industry, the brands of the Division and the Maison Bvlgari have decided to cancel their participation in the Fair in order to preserve their image and relations with customers and the media. They will therefore not take part in the 2021 edition of Baselworld. The four houses are evaluating different event formats to present their strategies and product innovations to their business partners and the international press in 2021. The LVMH Watches Division on the one hand and Bvlgari on the other will comment on their future plans in the coming weeks, based on their respective objectives”.

La piazza di Baselworld. Copyright: gioiellis.com

We are very sorry to have to abandon this more than centennial event, to which our Maison were faithful. However, it is clear that, in these conditions, we must react quickly and develop other strategies. We have the opportunity to reinvent the format and content of one of the key moments of our watch year, which represented a great commercial challenge and a strategic lever for the influence of our brands. In this perspective, we will make every effort to be present with the other prestigious Maison that will meet in Geneva in April 2021, to meet the needs of our partners and customers and offer them a unique experience.
Stéphane Bianchi, CEO of the LVMH Watches Division

In short, the pillars of what was the largest fair dedicated to jewelry and watchmaking crumble. At the moment, it is difficult to think of a Baselworld devoid of its brands that attracted thousands of visitors and buyers from all over the world. Now the watch business is focused on Geneva. What about jewelry? Will the trend of hand brands follow?

Bringing the entire Swiss watch industry together in one place, Geneva, the historical watchmaking capital and in a single date, is a great opportunity to finally relaunch a sector weakened by too many divisions and divergent interests compared to the rest of the luxury sector of in which Bvlgari is the protagonist and which progresses much more rapidly. We can’t wait to go to Geneva in April 2021, although we have yet to define the modalities of our participation, which we will specify in the coming weeks. We are also pleased not to
having to compensate, as in 2020, for the absence of institutional watch fairs, which this year forced us to take useful initiatives in the short term but not strategic in the medium term.
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of the Bvlgari Group

Jean Christophe Babin con Carla Bruni Sarkozy (da Twitter)

Chaumet presents the Jeux de Liens collection in Venice

Published on January 28, 2020

bracciale/Showroom/COLLANE

The novelties of Chaumet a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge, in the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, one of the best places for high-end shopping in Venice. The Fondaco dei Tedeschi, built in 1228 to house foreign merchants and rebuilt in 1508, has in fact become a department store. And now it presents a preview in Italy of the Maison’s new fine jewelery collection, Jeux de Liens, obviously on sale in the space reserved for the French brand, which is part of the Lvmh group.

The collection includes jewels that have the geometric shape of the circle in the center, but broken. The circles, in fact, are divided into two asymmetrical parts connected by crossed links. The idea is that you evoke the magic of the meeting. The collection includes an adjustable chain and Jeux de Liens Harmony pendants, which reflect the classic ideas of Chaumet, but also earrings with the shape of an X and bracelets. The jewels are in gold and small diamonds, with inserts of semi-precious stones, such as onyx, malachite or carnelian.

Jeux de Liens indossato — Chaumet, collane della collezione Jeux de Liens

Collane Jeux de Liens indossata — Collane Jeux de Liens