LVMH - Page 2

Breakfast at Tiffany’s in London, a Blue Box Café opens

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In the film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Audrey Hepburn stopped at dawn to look at the windows of New York jewelry, with a cup of coffee and a croissant. An elegant way to start the day or, better, to end the night. That idea was taken literally by Tiffany, who on the fourth floor of her New York flagship store, at 727 du Fifth Avenue, opened a restaurant, the Blue Box Café. The colors of the restaurant are all strictly white and blue Tiffany. In case you are interested, a breakfast with coffee or tea, fruit, egg, salmon and avocado tasting costs 32 dollars, while a light lunch up to 42 dollars.

Audrey Hepburn davanti alle vetrine di Tiffany, a New York
Audrey Hepburn davanti alle vetrine di Tiffany, a New York

The thrill of breakfast at Tiffany, however, from February 2020 also extends to Europe. The Blue Box Café, in fact, also opens in London, in the basement of Harrods, among little showcases with jewelry. It is not clear, however, if the Blue Box will only be for a limited period: the company is probably waiting to check whether the reception of the public will be positive. The menu, however, includes references to the city of jewelry, such as The Central Park Salad and The Big.
Tiffany Blue Box Café a New York
Tiffany Blue Box Café a New York

But if the brand extension to other extra activities from the classic Tiffany business is not new, it will be necessary to understand if the idea of ​​the Blue Box Cafés will be appreciated by the new owner of Tiffany, the LVMH group. Will Bernard Arnault also have breakfast at Tiffany’s?
arnault
Bernard Arnault, presidente di Lvmh

Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany
Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany

Tiffany, Fifth Avenue, New York, in occasione del lancio della collezione Paper Flowers
Tiffany, Fifth Avenue, New York, in occasione del lancio della collezione Paper Flowers

Audrey Hepburn in «Colazione da Tiffany»
Audrey Hepburn in «Colazione da Tiffany», davanti alle vetrine del negozio di New York







Tiffany sold to LVMH becomes French

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A revolution in the world of jewelry and luxury: Tiffany becomes French. After the relaunch of Bernard Arnault, the American group accepted the offer of LVMH.

Tiffany has been focused on executing on our key strategic priorities to drive sustainable long-term growth. This transaction, which occurs at a time of internal transformation for our legendary brand, will provide further support, resources and momentum for those priorities as we evolve towards becoming The Next Generation Luxury Jeweller. As part of the LVMH group, Tiffany will reach new heights, capitalizing on its remarkable internal expertise, unparalleled craftsmanship and strong cultural values.
Alessandro Bogliolo, CEO of Tiffany & Co

Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany
Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany

The agreement provides that Lbmh will acquire Tiffany for a value of 14.7 billion euros, equivalent to 16.2 billion dollars, or 135 dollars per share. And in cash. Tiffany had rejected the first offer, but leaving the door open for a raise. Which happened.

Un'immagine di «Colazione da Tiffany»
Un’immagine di «Colazione da Tiffany»

Following a strategic review that included a thoughtful internal process and expert external advice, the Board has concluded that this transaction with LVMH provides an exciting path forward with a group that appreciates and will invest in Tiffany’s unique assets and strong human capital, while delivering a compelling price with value certainty to our shareholders.
Roger N. Farah, chairman of the Tiffany board of directors

Tiffany, Fifth Avenue, New York, in occasione del lancio della collezione Paper Flowers
Tiffany, Fifth Avenue, New York, in occasione del lancio della collezione Paper Flowers

The acquisition of Tiffany is LVMH’s largest business and, obviously, it will strengthen its position in the jewelery market, as well as increasing its presence in the United States. Tiffany is a global brand and will join Maison such as Bulgari, Chaumet or Dior, which are already part of LVMH.

arnault
Bernard Arnault, presidente di Lvmh

We are delighted to have the opportunity to welcome Tiffany, a company with an unparalleled heritage and unique position in the global jewelry world, to the LVMH family. We have an immense respect and admiration for Tiffany and intend to develop this jewel with the same dedication and commitment that we have applied to each and every one of our Maisons. We will be proud to have Tiffany sit alongside our iconic brands and look forward to ensuring that Tiffany continues to thrive for centuries to come.
Bernard Arnault, president and CEO of LVMH

Lady Gaga con i gioielli di Tiffany
Lady Gaga con i gioielli di Tiffany






Breakfast at Tiffany’s for Lvmh

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LVMH puts $ 14.5 billion on the plate to buy Tiffany. Will he succeed?

Bulgari wants to buy Tiffany. Or better, the LVMH group, which also controls jewelery brands like Bulgari and Chaumet, offered $ 14.5 billion to Tiffany. According to the Wall Street Journal, the offer would be in cash and aims to strengthen itself on the American jewelry market. But, at the moment, the offer would have been rejected by Tiffany: price question. In essence, it seems to understand, if the owner of Lvmh, Bernard Arnault, proposed a higher price the deal could end.

Tiffany, New York
Tiffany, New York

It must be said that the offer of LVMH evaluates Tiffany at about $ 120 per share, more than 22% more than the closing on Friday at the New York Stock Exchange, where the American Maison is listed. For LVMH this would be the largest acquisition ever made, even higher than that to buy the remaining share of Christian Dior in 2017.
Bernard Arnault
Bernard Arnault

Buying Tiffany would allow Bernard Arnault’s empire to further diversify by increasing its exposure to jewelery, one of the fastest growing sectors in the luxury market. With its 300 stores worldwide, Tiffany is one of the largest jewelers in the world along with Cartier and Bulgari, which is part of the Arnault empire.
Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany
Alessandro Bogliolo, ceo di Tiffany

LVMH’s interest in the United States is well known and confirmed by the new factory opened in Texas last week in the presence of Donald Trump and his daughter Ivanka Trump. With its 4 billion in revenues a year, Tiffany has been suffering from competition for years and is looking for a revival that only recently seems to catch a glimpse. Having hunted up CEOs and seen his titles fall to $ 60 per share, under the leadership of number one Alessandro Bogliolo, the American jewelery giant is finding the luster he seemed to have lost. In fact, with Bogliolo Tiffany has redone the look of his flagship on Fifth Avenue in New York, where he has also opened a restaurant, crowning Holly Golightly’s dream of having breakfast at Tiffany’s. The company is also committed to expanding its audience by launching a men’s line of jewelery: around a hundred items whose prices range between $ 200 and $ 15,000.
Lady Gaga con il Tiffany Diamond
Lady Gaga con il Tiffany Diamond

The collection is also destined to expand to furnishing, with pincers for drinking and beer mugs only for men. Furthermore, Bogliolo is a familiar face for LVMH. He was for 16 years at Bulgari before it was bought by Arnault and then he was responsible for North America for Sephora, another Lvhm brand.
Cate Blanchett con collana di Tiffany alla premiazione degli Oscar
Cate Blanchett con collana di Tiffany alla premiazione degli Oscar







Baselworld moved to early April





Baselworld changes date again: from 2021 it will be held the first week of April, anticipates Michel Loris-Melikoff ♦ ︎

The watch hands in 2021 will be moved back three weeks. However, this is not an original interpretation of summer time. Instead, it’s a turnaround at Baselworld, the big watch and jewelery fair held in the spring in Basel. Baselworld is a point of reference for the great companies of timepieces, but also of jewels. The fair, however, has been experiencing a crisis for years that has reduced the number of participants. To try to reverse the trend, last year the managing director, Michel Loris-Melikoff, announced that by 2020 the date of the exhibition would be postponed to 30 April (closing on 5 May), more than a month after the usual period in which the event takes place, that is in mid-March.

Uno degli allestimenti a Baselworld 2019
Uno degli allestimenti a Baselworld 2019

The change of date was decided to create a synergy with Sihh, the watchmaking fair that until 2019 took place in late January. In 2020, in fact, the Sihh will be held from 27 to 29 April, with the stated objective of concentrating the trip for buyers in a single trip to Switzerland. However, the slippage has created discontent and problems especially at many Italian jewelery houses, as noted by gioiellis.com.
Orologi in esposizione a Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orologi in esposizione a Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also read: Will you go to Baselworld? Mini survey 

Many jewelers believe that the date set for Baselworld creates several problems: it is too close to the summer holidays and creates delays between the receipt of orders and the production of the collections. And even among the watch manufacturers there was no shortage of protests: Breitling, one of those members of the Baselworld committee, left Basel, while the LVMH group, which was present in Geneva alongside the Sihh, moved its event to Dubai .

Michel Loris-Melikoff
Michel Loris-Melikoff. Copyright: gioiellis.com

That is why, therefore, Michel Loris-Melikoff confided to the specialized magazine WatchPro that from 2021 the Baselworld fair will be moved again, this time three weeks before. So presumably in 2021 it will be held in the first week of April. A convincing date for jewelery companies? “It’s all very complicated,” the manager confessed. And if it is for the fair, let alone the participating companies.

Find the original interview by clicking here.



La cupola aperta che sovrasta la piazza che unisce i padiglioni della Fiera di Basilea
La cupola aperta che sovrasta la piazza che unisce i padiglioni della Fiera di Basilea

Foto con modelle. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Foto con modelle. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Il booth di Coronet. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Il booth di Coronet. Copyright: gioiellis.com







LVMH book Baselworld 2020




The LVMH group will participate in the upcoming Baselworld fair, as well as Rolex ♦︎

An important news for the 81,200 visitors who went to Baselworld in 2019, but above all for the undecided exhibitors whether to return to the great watch and jewelery fair. The LVMH group, in fact, has confirmed that it will be present at the next edition, that of 2020. The French luxury giant will therefore be on the track with the Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer and Zenith brands, which will still be in the four huge stands at entrance to hall 1. It is likely that the director of the fair, Michel Loris-Melikoff, breathed a sigh of relief, given that most of the attendance at Baselworld is influenced by the big brands. Rolex also confirmed its presence at Baselworld 2020 and, indeed, will also occupy the space left free by Breitling with Tudor, who has instead chosen to change air.
But the Swiss fair looks further ahead and is studying new concepts and formats for 20121.

Bulgari a Baselworld 2019
Bulgari a Baselworld 2019

We support Michel Loris-Melikoff and his team in their project to redefine and renew the concept of this great event for the Swiss watch industry
Stéphane Bianchi, Ceo Lvmh Watchmaking Division and CEO of Tag Heuer

For its part, Loris-Melikoffl said it will support each LVMH brand in designing innovative display formats for their presence in 2021 and beyond. The goal is “to let each Maison express its creativity and offer an exceptional brand immersion”. It seems, in short, that in exchange for confirmation, the large groups have achieved greater weight in the choice of exhibition formats. Will this also be the case for jewelers?




Baselworld 2019
Baselworld 2019

Michel Loris-Melikoff
Michel Loris-Melikoff

Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Baselworld 2019. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitatori a Baelworld 2019. Copyright: gioielli.com
Visitatori a Baelworld 2019. Copyright: gioielli.com

L'area Media a Baselworld 2019
L’area Media a Baselworld 2019







Bulgari, the new B.zero1 rings

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The new rings from the B.zero1 collection by Bulgari, which turns 20. Images and prices ♦ ︎

A twenty-year-old looks for other twenties for a true friendship. It might look like an ad on a bulletin board for lonely hearts, but it’s another thing. The twenty-year-old is the B.zero1 ring by Bulgari. Born in 1999, celebrates the birthday and, at the same time, wants to please young people, the so-called Millennials, the generation born right at the turn of those years. The B.zero1 collection, inspired by the silhouette of the Colosseum, could become, in the intentions of the brand that is part of the French group Lvmh, the kind of jewel capable of attracting the attention of the new generation of customers.

For the birthday of the Bulgari collection he presented new variations of the ring, which can also be worn as a pendant.

Anello B.zero1 XXth Anniversary a cinque bande in oro rosa 18 kt
Anello B.zero1 XXth Anniversary a cinque bande in oro rosa 18 kt

B.zero1, explained the CEO of the Maison, Jean-Christophe Babin, combines two typical works of Bulgari jewels: the tubogas, which is found in the spring of the ring and which recalls the high jewelry, and the logo repeated twice. According to Bulgari’s calculations, the price of the rings is also interesting for the Millennials, starting at € 1,140 for the one-lap version in pink gold. But of course the price goes up for richer versions, such as white gold and diamonds (8.950 euros). In twenty years 2 million pieces of this collection have been sold. Now the challenge is on the next twenty. Giulia Netrese





Anello B.zero1 in oro giallo
Anello B.zero1 in oro giallo

Anello a quattro bande in oro rosa 18 kt e ceramica nera disegnato da Zaha Hadid
Anello a quattro bande in oro rosa 18 kt e ceramica nera disegnato da Zaha Hadid
Collana con ciondolo della collezione B.zero1
Collana con ciondolo della collezione B.zero1
Anello Bulgari della collezione B.zero1
Anello Bulgari della collezione B.zero1
Anello B.zero1 XXth Anniversary a cinque bande in oro bianco 18 kt, con pavé di diamanti (1,42 ct) sulla spirale
Anello B.zero1 XXth Anniversary a cinque bande in oro bianco 18 kt, con pavé di diamanti (1,42 ct) sulla spirale

Anello a quattro bande in oro rosa 18 kt e ceramica bianca disegnato da Zaha Hadid
Anello a quattro bande in oro rosa 18 kt e ceramica bianca disegnato da Zaha Hadid







Bulgari, forever Fiorever?

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A new Bulgari collection, Fiorever. Pink and white gold jewelery with diamonds ♦ ︎

“Famous for the boldness of their style and their color inclination, Bulgari jewels are immediately recognizable. Their iconic features, which are found in each of the Bulgari creations, live in the sensuality of the volumes, in the love for clean lines and respect for the Greco-Roman roots that Bulgari expresses with its design. “

These words are read on the website of Bulgari, a great jewelery designer who has marked an era, in particular that of the Fifties and Sixties. The Roman Maison passed under the insignia of the Lvmh group has presented, in Dubai (the choice should make us reflect) the new collection of jewels, in the Bvlgari Resort of the Emirate city.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Fiorever
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti della collezione Fiorever

Reread the words and compare the Fiorever collection, a play on words between the Italian fiore (flower in English) and the English word forever, that is forever. On this occasion, Bulgari also presented her new ambassador, the Spanish actress, Úrsula Corberó, who replaces Lily Aldridge.
Not surprisingly, given the name, that the jewels of the collection are in the shape of a flower. They are made of white or pink gold, with a fair use of brilliant cut diamonds. All right, it’s not high jewelry. If, however, the collection matches the Bulgari style and tradition you will decide it. Giulia Netrese





Bracciale della collezione Fiorever
Bracciale della collezione Fiorever

Bulgari, orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Bulgari, orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Bulgari, collana con pendente in oro bianco e diamanti
Bulgari, collana con pendente in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello della collezione Fiorever
Anello della collezione Fiorever
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti

Orecchini della collezione Fiorever
Orecchini della collezione Fiorever







Italian jewelry shine more






The point on the jewelery market in Italy: in 2017 sales were growing. And export boom especially to France (thanks to Bulgari) ♦ ︎
Immediately after the complaints about the weather (it’s too hot, too cold, too rainy, too dry), the second favorite sport of Italians is pessimism. That of the Italians is a people of dissatisfied, much more unhappy than those who live in countries with less wealth, less beauties to admire, less exquisite foods to taste. So, if goldsmiths say that 2017 was a golden year, you really have to believe them.
The Goldsmiths Club took the opportunity to take stock of the jewelery market, citing Istat data on the production and turnover of the jewelery and jewelery sector. In 2017, therefore, the two sectors recorded growth of 15.6% and 8.9% respectively in Italy. But since you do not need to get too excited, the Goldsmith Club cools your enthusiasm a little. Yes, it is true that business has gone better, but also thanks to the improvement of the world economy and the specific demand for gold jewelery, as decreed by the World Gold Council. In the world, in fact, in 2017 the worldwide demand for gold jewelery has increased by 4% in quantity, thanks above all to an acceleration at the end of the year.
More exports
Italian companies have taken advantage of it to export more. Export to other countries has risen by 12% in value for the jewelery and costume jewelery (12.7% for the precious metal component alone, which also grows by 6% in quantity). In particular, sales to France increased (+ 33.0%, almost 190 million more than in 2016), also due to the entry into production of the new Bulgari plant in Valenza, part of the French Lvmh group, with Alessandria which becomes the first exporting province, exceeding the 2 billion euro threshold.
Good export results also to Switzerland (+ 15.7%, equal to 188 million euro) firmly in first place as a destination, to Hong Kong (+ 16.2%, 109.5 million euro) and to the United States (+19.5, 127.3 million euros). The strong development of direct exports to Turkey, which grew by 29% (+ € 56 million), should be noted. On the other hand, sales to the United Arab Emirates continued to decline (-3.4%): compared to 2013, Italian jewelery sales fell by around 30%, with a loss of 380 million euro. Despite the increase in imports (+ 9.1% and + 23.6% for the precious metal component), the balance of the goldsmith sector has further increased, exceeding 4 billion euros (4.4 billion for jewelery in precious).
The analyst’s comment
«The acceleration of the production, turnover and export indices throughout 2017 shows the importance of Italian know-how and expertise in jewelery, able to attract new investments and support the competitiveness of the numerous small and medium-sized businesses companies operating in the sector. The international scenario remains favorable to companies in the sector also in 2018, with the main target markets expected to remain growing», is the comment of Stefania Trenti, of the Research Department of Intesa Sanpaolo. Federico Graglia




Garavelli, prime fasi di lavorazione
Garavelli, prime fasi di lavorazione
Lavorazione di un cammeo
Lavorazione di un cammeo
Collana di Bulgari con gemme
Collana di Bulgari con gemme di colore

Anello Trombino con rubino burmese di 5,98 carati non riscaldato
Anello Trombino con rubino burmese di 5,98 carati non riscaldato

Il celebre bracciale serpente, in versione orologio
Il celebre bracciale serpente, in versione orologio
81064079 emozioni
Anello in oro bianco, rubino e diamanti

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini con pendente in oro bianco della collezione Emozioni
Damiani, orecchini con pendente in oro bianco della collezione Emozioni







Baselworld 2018, selection and news





Baselworld 2018 starts with the selection. But news jewelry are not lacking ♦ ︎
“The world is changing fast. Faced with this challenge, there are only two alternatives: to grow larger or to concentrate. We have chosen to concentrate”. The words of Sylvie Ritter, managing director of Baselworld, have opened the new edition, the number 101, of the great fair dedicated to luxury watches and jewelery. Indeed, more and more luxury, because if Baselworld 2017 counted 135,000 total visitors, down from 145,000 in 2016, in November the Mch group, which organizes the fair, announced that it would have halved the list of exhibitors and reduced the duration of the event, two day less, in response to the difficult phase recorded by the Swiss watchmaking players (the export of Swiss watches, however, after two years of crisis started to rise again at + 12.6% in the first few months of 2018). Baselworld also reduced the rental fee for the stands by 10%.
The result is that in Basel there are about 700 exhibitors, almost halved compared to 1,300 in 2017, when they had already fallen by 200 compared to 2016, but still the past year attracted 106 thousand buyers and 4,400 journalists (including those of gioiellis.com). And yet, if there are no more brands like Movado or Eberhard in watchmaking, there are always leading names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, the Swatch group with its many brands, some of which, like Omega. There is also the Lvmh group with Maison like Bulgari and Tag Heuer. And there are many top brands of jewelry, from fashion like Swarovski, or haute joaillerie with Graff, de Grisogono or Harry Winston, up to small Maison but with great creativity like Alessio Boschi, and the classic brands of Italian jewelry, Nanis, Giovanni Ferraris , Annamaria Cammilli, Picchiotti, Fope, Leo Pizzo, Casato, just to name a few. In short, Baselworld has lost weight, but still retains a lot of charm: the 101 years brings them well. We will tell the news in the next few days.



Sylvie Ritter
Sylvie Ritter inaugura Baselworld 2018
Booth Swarovski
Booth Swarovski
Ingresso principale allo spazio espositivo di Baselworld
Ingresso principale allo spazio espositivo di Baselworld
Collana Swarovski
Collana Swarovski
Al lavoro nei booth
Al lavoro nei booth

Interno di Baselworld
Interno di Baselworld







Stéphane Gerschel from Bulgari to Pomellato




Stéphane Gerschel is the new global brand managing director of Pomellato ♦ ︎
From Lvmh to Kering. From Bulgari to Pomellato. Even in sports, the champions change team: why should not it happen in jewelery? So it’s not so strange that Stéphane Gerschel is Pomellato’s new global brand managing director. The manager, with French dna and training in the United States (he holds a master in law at the University of Miami) has been the director of Bulgari’s international communication for four years, from 2013 to 2017. In Milan will works with Sabina Belli, CEO of the precious label founded by Pino Rabolini in 1967. Despite being relatively young, Gherschel has a long career behind. He was vice president of global communication at L’Oreal and vice president of International Communications at Veuve Clicquot. Among other things, he also wrote a cookbook, The Season of Veuve Clicquot, with custom menus by the world’s most prominent chefs. Then he went in Bulgari. And now with Pomellato his reference brand moves from Rome to Milan.



Stéphane Gerschel con la pr Marilyn Heston
Stéphane Gerschel con la pr Marilyn Heston
stephane
Stéphane Gerschel al lancio della

pomellato RitrattoCollection family has a wide range of color from the deep shades of London Blue topaz and amethyst to the softer hues of pink of the rose quartz

Stéphane Gerschel (da Instagram)
Stéphane Gerschel (da Instagram)







Repossi’s reflections

For once the news is not a new collection, but the place that houses them. In particular, the new Repossi flagship store in Paris, in the classic town square for jewelers, Place Vendome. We signaled the boutique for a reason: it is a kind of spaceship that is very different from to the traditional jewelers with velvets and soft leather armchairs. The Repossi store was designed by the Dutch firm of Oma architecture. There are mirrors, metal, aluminum foam, resin, reflective strips, Led lights. “Architecture and jewelry are not so far apart as you might imagine: they are distant relatives, which operate at different resolutions,” they explained the authors of the project. The environment is on three floors. Jewels are kept in glass cases that seem to mini glass skyscrapers. “I discovered the desire to make a clean sweep (in Latin means eliminating all), rethink the existing on a sphere with a much broader intellectual and educational approach that appealed to me,” said Gaia Repossi to Wallpaper. Repossi is a company founded in Turin in 1920, but now active in France: one year is in part owned by the giant LVMH, which has bought an minority stake. The opening of the store, probably, is the first result of the operation. Federico Graglia

Place Vendôme, il flagship store di Repossi
Place Vendôme, il flagship store di Repossi

L'ingresso della boutique
L’ingresso della boutique
Le teche con i gioielli
Le teche con i gioielli
Chocker in oro rosa e diamanti
Chocker in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello White Noise in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello White Noise in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa
Anello in oro rosa
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti taglio a pera
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti taglio a pera
Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti
Orecchini con diamanti
Orecchini con diamanti
Orecchino Repossi
Orecchino Repossi
Orecchino con oro e diamanti
Orecchino con oro e diamanti

Stroili sold to Histoire d’Or

After Bulgari, after Pomellato, after Buccellati, another Italian brand that takes the train to abroad, or better, for France: Stroili is sold to Thom Europe, holding company of Histoire d’Or (Thom Europe), already present in Italy with three points sale. This is the most widespread of French jewelry chain, and it’s corresponding to Stroili dimension in Italy. Accesible Luxury, the italian company that controls Stroili, is owned by Andrea Bonomi’s Investindustrial fund and others private equity fund as 21Investimenti, Wise and NB Renaissance, along with L Catterton (LVMH group) and other minority shareholders. They have reached an agreement for the sale of the entire capital. Stroili is among the top five retail chains of jewelry and watches in Europe for revenues, and employs over 572 outlets. We do not know the figure agreed for the operation. At the moment Maurizio Merenda, current Ceo of Stroili, will retain a charge even in the new structure. The transaction will be financed entirely with equity and debt.
The official statement of the company speaks of an operation that “will support expansion ambitions in Europe of Stroili”, with synergies which will lead the new company to become the first international platform of jewelry at affordable prices. In the 12 months ended March 31, 2016, Stroili generated in-store sales of 216 million euro and an Ebitda of 35 million pro forma. Thom Europe, which is in turn controlled by a series of private equity funds (Bridgepoint, Apax Partners, Altamir, Management and Qualium Investissement), created in the 12 months ended March 31, 2016, in-store sales to 387 million euro and a pro forma adjusted Ebitda of 78 million. Federico Graglia

Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Francesca Chillemi e Maurizio Merenda
Francesca Chillemi e Maurizio Merenda
Punto vendita di Histoire d'Or
Punto vendita di Histoire d’Or

Buccellati goes to Switzerland

Buccellati bye-bye: it is wrote by the newspaper Sole24Ore and nobody has denied it. An article by Carlo Festa, draws a farewell from the Italian fund of private equity Clessidra. Buccellati will end up on Swiss bank of Lake Geneva, in the big house of the Richemont group. After the disappearance, in January, of the founder of Hourglass, Claudio Sposito, seems to go down the idea of ​​a center of Italian luxury, which had been toyed with the entry into private equity fund of Francesco Trapani. Who is a former number one of Bulgari, sold five years ago to the French LVMH group. Trapani became vice president of Clessidra with the idea of ​​bringing together under one hat other luxury brands, a bit ‘as the French group Bernard Arnault or François Pinault’s Kering , which controls inter alia, the Italian brand Pomellato. Or also the Swiss Richemont group, which already owns brands such as Cartier, Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels. The argument between the wife of Sposito, Manuela Del Castillo and Trapani, which is going from Clessidra, instead has revolutionized the strategy. And will be no a big group of Italian jewelry: Buccellati will end in the land of William Tell. Whether he wants it or not Andrea Buccellati, president and representative of the family founder, who maintains a minority stake in the company. Federico Graglia

Anello con oro e diamante
Anello con oro e diamante
Anello Turbante
Anello Turbante
Francesco Trapani e Pace Wu, quando il manager era ancora in Bulgari
Francesco Trapani e Pace Wu, quando il manager era ancora in Bulgari
Buccellati, anelli
Buccellati, anelli
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro e diamanti

LVMH enters in Repossi house

The new, large, home of Gaia Repossi is called LVMH. The designer, who is the creative soul of the jewelery company that bears his name, is allied with the great French group active in the luxury goods. In addition to signatures in fashion and food & beverage, LVMH also controls brands such as Bulgari, Chaumet and De Beers Diamond Jewellers. Now, though, with a different formula (a minority stake in the capital of Maison Repossi), he adds a new signature. “I am very pleased to have the support and the experience of LVMH into the world of handicraft and products of high quality. His support will be invaluable to pursue our strategy and expand our distribution network, “it is the official comment of Gaia Repossi, who is also creative director of the brand. In turn, the French group responds with an equally formal statement: “LVMH is delighted to support the Maison Repossi in its development. We share with the family business, the same DNA, the extreme quality and creativity of the products. The success of Repossi portends a promising future, which we are pleased to be associated”, said Delphine Arnault, deputy general director of Louis Vuitton and LVMH. Repossi was founded in 1920 in Turin, it has established itself as gioiellieria luxury, very creative. Alberto Repossi, granddaughter of the founder of the brand, now leads the family business, now in its fourth generation, together with the designer who has determined its new success renewing deeply the style, Gaia Repossi, creative director since 2007. Federico Graglia

Ligne C, anello a sei fili in oro rosa, full pavé. Prezzo: 9800 euro
Ligne C, anello a sei fili in oro rosa, full pavé. Prezzo: 9800 euro
Ligne C, anello a sei fili in oro cromato nero. Prezzo: 3100 euro
Ligne C, anello a sei fili in oro cromato nero. Prezzo: 3100 euro
Ligne C, orecchini in oro con galvanica lilla. Prezzo: 10900 euro
Ligne C, orecchini in oro con galvanica lilla. Prezzo: 10900 euro
Gaia Repossi
Gaia Repossi
Ligne C, anello in oro rosa
Ligne C, anello in oro rosa
Ligne C, anello in oro rosa e diamanti bianchi
Ligne C, anello in oro rosa e diamanti bianchi
Ligne C, anello in oro bianco e rodio verde
Ligne C, anello in oro bianco e rodio verde

Tiffany targeted by LVMH?

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Tiffany targeted by LVMH? The brand of New York which becomes a French province? The group that has become a myth alongside brands such as Bulgari, Chaumet, De Beers Diamond Jewellers, Dior Watches, Fred Joaillier, which are part of the group led by François Arnault? The hypothesis is advanced by loff.it site, which is part of the Spanish group ABC, one of the more established of the Iberian Peninsula. It is, of course, a idea circulating in some financial circles and not a confirmed news. That is liked, however, at the imagination of those who follow the global luxury market. According to the author of the article, Marion Mueller, everything starts from the consideration that the stock exchange shares of Tiffany fell in a month from $ 108 to about 90. The reason is that sales of Tiffany at Christmas have gone not so well, especially in the United States. According to a statement released by the American company, total US sales for November and December 2014 was equal to 544milioni dollars, down 1% compared to 2013.

The article also reports the opinion of Howard Ward, of Gamco Investors: “Although it seems to awaken interest among investment companies, for Tiffany would be much more suitable as a suitor another manufacturer of luxury items.” “LVMH is positioned slightly better for a large acquisition. Bulgarians is began to emerge and are no longer involved with Hermes,” added Luca Solca, head of research for the field of luxury goods Exane BNP Paribas in London. However, it remains a small detail that does not seem to worry loff.it: the cost of such an operation. The capitalization of Tiffany (the total value of all listed shares) is, at present, more than 11 billion dollars. A mouthful is not easy to digest even for a giant like LVMH. Federico Graglia

François Arnault (al centro). Alla sua destra, il presidente francese François Hollande
François Arnault (al centro). Alla sua destra, il presidente francese François Hollande
Negozio Tiffany
Negozio Tiffany
Tiffany box
Tiffany box

A Roma una Domus per Bulgari

Un piccolo museo per ospitare una grande collezione: è la Domus Bulgari inaugurata in via Condotti a Roma. E per l’occasione la maison è diventata soggetto di un «corto» del regista premio Oscar Paolo Sorrentino. Al secondo piano dello storico negozio c’è l’allestimento, Roman Heritage, che ospita la storia del marchio con gioielli appartenuti alle star o «pezzi» unici di alta gioielleria. Dal sautoir con zaffiro da 50 carati di Elizabeth Taylor, regalo di Richard Burton per i 40 anni dell’attrice, alle spille in rubini e diamanti degli anni Cinquanta appartenute ad Anna Magnani, fino ai gioielli indossati da Ingrid Bergman, Anita Eckberg, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren. Tra tutti gli oggetti espostiì spicca il sautoir anni Settanta con tre monete di epoca Romana (54-68 D.C.) in argento, oro e bronzo raffiguranti l’effigie dell’imperatore Nerone. Un legame quello di Bulgari con la Città Eterna che si riflette in molte altre creazioni, per esempio la collana anni Novanta rivestita di smeraldi  ametiste, zaffiri e diamanti si ispira alla pianta di Castel S. Angelo. E, ancora, in un collier di diamanti c’è idealmente la volta del Pantheon, mentre la via Appia, lastricata di rubini, ametiste e acquemarine, splende nel bracciale Sassi. Foto e bozzetti d’epoca fanno da cornice alle pareti. Per Paolo Bulgari questa è la realizzazione di un sogno coltivato da tempo e anche un motivo di orgoglio:« Poter celebrare in questo spazio una storia lunga 130 anni fatta di Arte, Bellezza ed eccellenza italiana». M.d.B.

Il soutire di Eliz esposti alla Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari
Alcuni dei gioielli esposti alla Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari
Bulgari in primo piano, anche per il quotidiano La Stampa, che ha pubblicato una lunga intervista al ceo di Bulgari (che ora fa parte del gruppo francese Lvmh), Jean-Christophe Babin. Ecco l’intervista di Michela Tamburrino.

Jean-Christophe Babin
Jean-Christophe Babin
Un piccolo pezzo di storia a caratura purissima che, per Bulgari, può essere solo brillante. Benvenuti nel tempio del lusso, eretto a immagine sempiterna di una Maison sulla quale mai tramonta il sole. Giusto allora che si celebri in un museo, nel cuore di Roma, nel cuore del negozio in via Condotti, nel quale tutto nacque e che ha fatto girare la testa a principi e dive. Tra marmi pregiati e salette della memoria condivisa, svettano i gioielli recuperati, quelli dell’epopea: le spille di Anna Magnani, la collana che Burton regalò a Liz Taylor. Lo spazio Domus, ovattato, è destinato alla valorizzazione della Heritage Collection della casa grazie anche alla straordinaria inventiva e certosina ricerca storica dell’architetto Peter Marino. Fermo immagine ed ecco l’incubo visionario del premio Oscar Paolo Sorrentino, che racconta in un corto da brivido, «The Dream» il Bulgari misterioso, con anime perse pronte a ritrovarsi nelle stanze del negozio, tragitti notturni dell’aldilà con Valeria Golino in veste di Beatrice. È anche questa una Grande Bellezza potrebbe dire e certamente pensa il Ceo della Maison Jean-Christophe Babin.

Interno e bozzetti Domus Bulgari.
Interno e bozzetti Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari
La vostra grande bellezza in mostra. Perché?
«È il primo museo fisso nel tempio di Bulgari. Poter aggiungere al marchio commerciale anche l’aspetto museale. Ci piaceva, dopo aver accumulato 130 anni di storia, una chiave di lettura diversa. Così le creazioni di oggi si possono ammirare meglio. Comprendendo il passato si gusta di più il contemporaneo. Le radici sono importanti».
Ma oggi il lusso dove va?
«Va dove lo si apprezza nei suoi valori di autenticità e di unicità con un savoir faire particolare. Se un marchio è antico durerà ancora a lungo. Si spende con più sicurezza se si ha la percezione della solidità. Se si percepisce l’eternità. Un pezzo Bulgari tra vent’anni andrà sempre di moda. È un’affermazione ulteriore della nostra strategia».
Ma in un momento di crisi tutto cambia?
«Oggi viviamo in un mondo incerto dalla difficile lettura. Navighiamo come su una nave nella nebbia. L’importante è non dimenticare mai la direzione presa e l’obiettivo che si vuole raggiungere. Magari rallenti, farai fatica, per evitare la tempesta prenderai vie diverse, ma alla fine bisogna arrivare lì dove si deve».
È la vostra strategia?
«La forza del nostro marchio è qui. Non sappiamo nulla del 2015, ma siamo certi che investiremo più di quanto fatto nel 2013 e nel 2014. Il lusso della gioielleria ha tempi lunghi».
Come si fidelizza il cliente?
«Osando, sempre. Il cliente compra poche volte nella vita e se sei troppo timoroso rischi di perdere l’opportunità che potrebbe non ripresentarsi mai più. Perso un acquirente è per sempre. Nel lusso i cicli d’acquisto sono lenti, un marchio deve essere il primo che ti viene in mente, deve generare un’associazione spontanea categoria-marca. Con una rete di boutiques mondiali ci trovano ovunque: trecento negozi, cinquanta negli aeroporti e una pubblicità che copre tutto l’arco dell’anno, non più sotto Natale come accadeva anni fa. Prima si faceva il 30% del fatturato in sei settimane. Ora tutto è più normale. Non vendiamo panettoni».
Alla Biennale di Parigi avete presentato una collana da 17 milioni di euro. Il vostro cliente tipo appartiene solo a questa fascia di possibilità?
«No, anzi. Il grosso dei prodotti venduti si aggira tra i 1.000 e i 6.000 euro. Non bisogna mai dimenticare che tra la nostra clientela c’è gente che apprezza l’artigianalità e che magari ha risparmiato un anno per fare quell’acquisto. Ed è il cliente che io prediligo perché aggiunge un valore emozionale alla spesa e ti sarà sempre fedele».
Lei parla di gioielli non di accessori come borse e cinte?
«Certo. Il prezzo delle borse invece è superiore alla media, miriamo alla parte alta del mercato, vogliamo essere “la creme” e dare la possibilità di portare qualcosa di esclusivo».
L’integrazione con il gruppo Lvmh ha creato dei grandi cambiamenti?
«Il gruppo ha acquisito azioni Bulgari e ha lasciato a Bulgari ampia libertà d’azione, ci ha portato sinergie utilissime per ottenere posizioni migliori. Siamo un’azienda fortemente integrata, una società di diritto italiano con impianti italiani. Tutto il nostro prodotto è realizzato in Italia e in Svizzera per quanto riguarda gli orologi, il design è italiano. Possediamo manifatture e competenze per poterlo produrre in toto, vale a dire che non abbiamo fornitori esterni. Insieme siamo solo più forti. Se voglio avere uno spazio da 200 metri quadrati in una mall posso chiederlo da solo ma se con il gruppo ne chiediamo 2000 i miei 200 li otterrò a condizioni migliori. Questione di buon senso e di vantaggi di costo, aggregandoci formiamo massa critica. Ma sono libero di decidere come meglio credo».
Anche di fare acquisizioni, anche di aggregare altri marchi del lusso?
«Certo ma non è nella nostra strategia. Lvmh è a capo a 60 aziende di moda e di orologi perciò Bulgari non ha interesse ad acquisire altri marchi. Il nostro scopo principale è alimentare la nostra fama, diventare sempre più mitici. Il management deve pensare solo Bulgari come gioielli, orologi e tutto il resto. Nel ranking mondiale siamo al quindicesimo posto, siamo nella top ten dei profumi e se guardiamo al segmento di prezzo, sopra i 2.000 euro siamo nella top five».
Una mitologia che si amplifica anche attraverso il segmento alberghiero.
«Gli alberghi sono molto importanti, sono l’espressione massima della nostra filosofia. Ne abbiamo annunciati tre, altri tre li abbiamo aperti, l’ultimo a Pechino. Cinque li inaugureremo nel 2020 oltre ai 20 store aperti nelle città che hanno un grande impatto multiculturale nel mondo, vale a dire, località turistiche che incidono».
Quali sono allora le città sulle quali puntare in un futuro prossimo?
«Se parliamo di flussi, non bisogna mai dimenticare le città simbolo che sono Parigi, Milano, Londra, New York, Tokyo, Shanghai alle quali vorrei aggiungere Pechino, Dubai, San Paolo e Sydney. Ripeto, il lusso è un business a circolo lento».
Il riferimento a Pechino non è casuale.
«È un segno importante di come Bulgari si sta rafforzando. L’albergo ne è la prova del nove. Un lusso a 360 gradi è l’interpretazione integrale del brand che non è solo oggetto ma stile e filosofia di vita».

Interno Domus Bulgari.  Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari
Interno Domus Bulgari. Foto dal sito Facebook di Bulgari

ukIn Rome a “Domus” for Bulgari

A small museum to host a big collection: is the Domus Bulgari opened in Via Condotti in Rome. For the occasion, the brand has been the subject of a “short” of the Oscar-winning director Paolo Sorrentino. On the second floor of the historic shop there is the installation set up, Roman Heritage, that hosts to the brand’s history with jewelry that belonged to the stars, or “pieces” of unique high jewelry. From the sapphire sautoir with 50-carat of Elizabeth Taylor, a Richard Burton gift for the 40th anniversary of the actress, to the rubies and diamonds brooches belonged to Anna Magnani, to the jewelry worn by Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren. Of all the objects espostiì stands out sautoir Seventies with three coins of the Roman period (54-68 AD) in silver, gold and bronze depicting Emperor Nero. The bond between Bulgari and the Eternal City is reflected in many other creations, such as the necklace coated with emeralds amethysts, sapphires and diamonds, inspired by the plan of Castel Sant’Angelo. And, again, in a diamond necklace is ideally the Pantheon’s vault, while the Appian Way, paved with rubies, amethysts and aquamarines, shining in the bracelet Sassi. Vintage photos and sketches are alla round the museum. To Paolo Bulgari this is the fulfilment of a long held and also a source of pride: «Being able to celebrate in this space without a history of 130 years of Art, Beauty and Italian excellence».

france-flagA Rome une “Domus” pour Bulgari

Un petit musée pour accueillir une grande collection: est la Domus Bulgari ouvert dans la Via Condotti à Rome. Pour l’occasion, la marque a fait l’objet d’un court-métrage par le réalisateur oscarisé Paolo Sorrentino. Au deuxième étage de la boutique historique il ya l’installation, Roman Heritage, qui héberge l’histoire de la marque avec des bijoux ayant appartenu à des stars, ou « pièces » uniques de haute joaillerie. Du sautoir de saphir de 50 carats d’Elizabeth Taylor, un cadeau par Richard Burton pour le 40e anniversaire de l’actrice, à les broches de rubis et diamants appartenaient à Anna Magnani, à les bijoux portés par Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren. De tous les objets espostiì se démarque une sautoir avec trois monnaies de l’époque romaine (54-68 AD) en argent, or et bronze représentant l’empereur Néron. Le lien entre Bulgari et la Ville éternelle se reflète dans beaucoup d’autres créations, comme le collier enduit d’émeraudes améthystes, saphirs et diamants, inspiré par le plan de Castel Sant’Angelo. Et, encore, dans un collier de diamants est idéalement la voûte de la Panthéon, tandis que la Via Appia, pavée de rubis, des améthystes et des aigues-marines, brille dans le bracelet Sassi. Photos et croquis vintage sont tout autour du musée. Pour Paolo Bulgari cette est l’accomplissement d’une longue tenue et aussi une source de fierté: «Le fait de pouvoir célébrer dans cet espace sans une histoire de 130 ans d’art, la beauté et l’excellence italienne».

german-flagIn Rom ein “Domus” für Bulgari
Ein kleines Museum, eine große Sammlung veranstalten: die Domus Bulgari eröffnete in der Via Condotti in Rom. Zu diesem Anlass hat sich die Marke, die Gegenstand einer “kurzen” des Oscar-prämierten Regisseurs Paolo Sorrentino. Auf der zweiten Etage des historischen Shop gibt es die Installation einrichten, römische Erbe, die an der Geschichte der Marke mit Schmuck, der zu den Sternen, oder “Stücke” der einzigartige High Schmuck gehörte hostet. Von dem Saphir sautoir mit 50-Karat Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton ein Geschenk für den 40. Geburtstag der Schauspielerin, den Rubinen und Diamanten Broschen gehörte Anna Magnani, zum Schmuck von Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren getragen . Von all den Objekten espostiì abhebt sautoir Seventies mit drei Münzen aus der Römerzeit (54-68 AD) in Silber, Gold und Bronze Darstellung Kaiser Nero. Die Bindung zwischen Bulgari und der Ewigen Stadt ist in vielen anderen Kreationen, wie die Halskette mit Smaragden Amethyste, Saphire und Diamanten beschichtet, inspiriert von dem Plan der Engelsburg nieder. Und wieder in einem Diamant-Halskette ist im Idealfall die Pantheon Gewölbe, während der Via Appia, gepflastert mit Rubinen, Amethysten und Aquamarine, glänzend in das Armband Sassi. Weinlese-Fotos und Skizzen sind alla Runde des Museums. Paolo Bulgari dies ist die Erfüllung eines lang gehegten und auch eine Quelle des Stolzes: «Die Möglichkeit, in diesem Raum ohne eine Geschichte von 130 Jahren Kunst, Schönheit und italienische Exzellenz feiern».

flag-russiaВ Риме в “Domus” для Bulgari

Небольшой музей, чтобы провести большую коллекцию: является Domus Bulgari открылся в Виа Кондотти в Риме. По этому случаю, бренд был предметом «короткой» оскароносного режиссера Паоло Соррентино. На втором этаже исторического магазина есть установка, Роман наследия, на котором размещена историю бренда с драгоценностями, который принадлежал к звездам, или “кусков” уникальной высокой ювелирных изделий. Из сапфира sautoir с 50-каратного Elizabeth Taylor, в подарок Richard Burton на 40-летия актрисы, на броши рубинами и бриллиантами пятидесятых принадлежал Anna Magnani, в ювелирные изделия носили Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren. Из всех объектов espostiì выделяется sautoir Семидесяти трех монет римского периода (54-68 г. н.э.) в серебро, золото и бронзу с изображением императора Нерона. Связь между Bulgari и Вечного города отражается и во многих других творений, таких как ожерелья, покрытой изумрудами аметистами, сапфирами и бриллиантами, вдохновленный плана замка Сант-Анджело. И, опять же, в бриллиантовое колье идеально свод Пантеона, в то время Аппиевой дороге, вымощенной рубинами, аметистами и аквамарины, сияющий в браслет Сасси. Винтажные фотографии и эскизы по всему музею. Для Paolo Bulgari это выполнение тех пор состоялось, а также является источником гордости: «Находясь в состоянии праздновать в этом пространстве без истории 130 лет искусства, красоты и итальянского совершенства».

spagna-okEn Roma una “Domus” para Bulgari

Un pequeño museo para alojar una gran colección: es la Domus Bulgari abrió en Via Condotti en Roma. Para la ocasión, la marca ha sido objeto de un “corto”, de el director ganador del Oscar, Paolo Sorrentino. En el segundo piso de la histórica tienda se encuentra la instalación, Roman Heritage, que aloja la historia de la marca con joyas que pertenecieron a las estrellas, o “piezas” única de alta joyería. Desde el sautoir de zafiro con 50 quilates de Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton un regalo para el 40 aniversario de la actriz, a los rubíes y diamantes broches pertenecido a Anna Magnani, para la joyería usada por Ingrid Bergman, Anita Ekberg, Gina Lollobrigida Sophia Loren . De todos los objetos espostiì destaca setenta Sautoir con tres monedas de la época romana (54-68 dC), en plata, oro y bronce que representa el emperador Nerón. El vínculo entre Bulgari y la Ciudad Eterna se refleja en muchas otras creaciones, como el collar de esmeraldas recubierto con amatistas, zafiros y diamantes, inspirado en el plan de Castel Sant’Angelo. Y, de nuevo, en un collar de diamantes, ideal bóveda del Panteón, mientras que la Vía Apia, pavimentada con rubíes, amatistas y aguamarinas, brilla en la pulsera de Sassi. Fotos y dibujos vintage son alla por el museo. Para Paolo Bulgari esto es el cumplimiento de una larga data y también una fuente de orgullo: «Ser capaz de celebrar en este espacio sin una historia de 130 años de arte, belleza y excelencia italiana».

Bulgari spinge Lvmh

Il gruppo Lvmh se la cava bene anche in tempi di crisi e una buona parte della performance finanziaria è merito del comparto orologi e gioielli, ma soprattutto di questi ultimi. Anche grazie alle vendite firmate Bvlgari. Nei primi nove mesi del 2014, infatti, il gruppo leader mondiale nei prodotti di lusso ha registrato un aumento del 4% dei ricavi, a 21,4 miliardi di euro. In particolare, la vendita di orologi e gioielli nei primi nove mesi ha registrato una crescita organica dei ricavi del 5% a 1,972 miliardi. «Il periodo ha mostrato una notevole accelerazione nel segmento gioielleria, guidato in particolare da Bvlgari, mentre gli orologi hanno continuato a essere influenzati dalla comportamento d’acquisto prudente dei rivenditori multimarca in un contesto economico incerto», commenta la società presieduta da Bernard Arnault. «Il lancio del nuovo orologio Lvcea per donne, di Bvlgari, e il successo delle linee iconiche di Hublot sono stati i punti salienti del trimestre». F.G.

Collana di Bulgari
Collana di Bulgari
Bernard Arnault
Bernard Arnault
Bulgari a Tokio
Bulgari a Tokio

ukBulgari pushes LVMH  

The LVMH group is doing very well even in times of crisis, and a good part of the financial performance of the sector is about watches and jewelry, but especially of the latter. Also thanks to sales signed Bvlgari. In the first nine months of 2014, in fact, the world leader in luxury goods recorded a 4% increase in revenues to 21.4 billion euro. In particular, the sale of watches and jewelery in the first nine months recorded organic revenue growth of 5% to 1.972 billion. “The period showed a significant acceleration in the jewelery sector, driven in particular by Bvlgari, while the watches have continued to be influenced by the behavior of prudent purchase of multibrand retailers in an uncertain economic environment,” says the company headed by Bernard Arnault. “The launch of the new watch Lvcea for women, Bvlgari, and the success of the iconic lines of Hublot were the highlights of the quarter.”

france-flagBulgari pousse LVMH 

Le groupe LVMH se porte très bien, même en temps de crise, et une bonne partie de la performance financière du secteur est avec ​​les montres et les bijoux, mais surtout de ces derniers. En outre, grâce à les ventes signée Bvlgari. Au cours des neuf premiers mois de 2014, en effet, le leader mondial des produits de luxe a enregistré une augmentation de 4% du chiffre d’affaires à 21,4 milliards d’euros. En particulier, la vente de montres et de bijoux au cours des neuf premiers mois a enregistré une croissance de 5% du chiffre d’affaires de 1,972 milliard. “La période a montré une accélération significative dans le secteur de la bijouterie, tirée en particulier par Bvlgari, tandis que les montres ont continué à être influencé par le comportement d’achat prudent de détaillants multimarques dans un environnement économique incertain», explique la société dirigée par Bernard Arnault. «Le lancement de la nouvelle Lvcea de montre pour les femmes, Bvlgari, et le succès des lignes icônes de Hublot ont été les faits saillants du trimestre.”

france-flagBulgari pousse LVMH 

Le groupe LVMH se porte très bien, même en temps de crise, et une bonne partie de la performance financière du secteur est sur ​​les montres et les bijoux, mais surtout de ce dernier. En outre, grâce aux ventes de Bvlgari. Au cours des neuf premiers mois de 2014, en effet, le leader mondial des produits de luxe a enregistré une augmentation de 4% du chiffre d’affaires à 21,4 milliards d’euros. En particulier, la vente de montres et de bijoux au cours des neuf premiers mois a enregistré une croissance de 5% du chiffre d’affaires de 1,972 milliard. “La période a montré une accélération significative dans le secteur de la bijouterie, tirée en particulier par Bvlgari, tandis que les montres ont continué à être influencé par le comportement d’achat prudent de détaillants multimarques dans un environnement économique incertain», explique la société dirigée par Bernard Arnault. «Le lancement de la nouvelle Lvcea de montre pour les femmes, Bvlgari, et le succès des lignes icônes de Hublot ont été les faits saillants du trimestre.”

german-flagBulgari schiebt LVMH 

Die LVMH-Gruppe ist sehr gut, auch in Zeiten der Krise, und ein guter Teil der finanziellen Leistungsfähigkeit der Branche ist über Uhren und Schmuck, vor allem aber der letzteren. Auch dank des Verkaufs unterzeichnet Bvlgari. In den ersten neun Monaten des Jahres 2014, in der Tat, die weltweit führend in der Luxusgüter verzeichneten einen Anstieg von 4% der Umsatzerlöse auf 21,4 Milliarden Euro zu. Insbesondere der Verkauf von Uhren und Schmuck in den ersten neun Monaten ein organisches Umsatzwachstum von 5% bis 1,972 Milliarden. “Der Zeitraum, zeigten eine signifikante Beschleunigung in der Schmuckbranche, insbesondere von Bvlgari angetrieben, während die Uhren haben sich weiter durch das Verhalten der vorsichtigen Kauf von Multimarken-Einzelhändlern in einem unsicheren wirtschaftlichen Umfeld beeinflusst werden”, sagt das Unternehmen von Bernard Arnault geführt. “Die Einführung der neuen Uhr Lvcea für Frauen, Bulgari, und der Erfolg der legendären Zeilen Hublot waren die Highlights des Quartals.”

flag-russiaBulgari толкает LVMH 

Группа LVMH делает очень хорошо даже в период кризиса, и значительная часть финансовой деятельности сектора составляет около часов и ювелирных изделий, но особенно последнего. Кроме того, благодаря продажам подписал Bvlgari. В первые девять месяцев 2014 года, по сути, мировой лидер в области предметов роскоши был зарегистрирован рост на 4% доходов до 21,4 миллиарда евро. В частности, торговля часами и ювелирными украшениями в первые девять месяцев записываются органическому росту в 5% до 1972 млн. “Период показали значительное ускорение в ювелирном секторе, движимый, в частности, Bvlgari, в то время как часы продолжали находиться под влиянием поведения разумного покупку мультибрендовых ритейлеров в неопределенной экономической среды,” говорит, что компания во главе с Бернаром Арно. “Запуск новой часовой Lvcea для женщин, Bvlgari, и успех знаковых линий Hublot были основными моментами квартал.”

spagna-okBulgari empuja LVMH 

El grupo LVMH está haciendo muy bien, incluso en tiempos de crisis, y una buena parte de los resultados financieros del sector es de relojes y joyas, pero sobre todo de estas últimas. También gracias a las ventas de la firma Bvlgari. En los primeros nueve meses de 2014, de hecho, el líder mundial en productos de lujo registra un aumento del 4% en los ingresos a 21,4 millones de euros. En particular, la venta de relojes y joyas en los nueve primeros meses registró un crecimiento orgánico de los ingresos del 5% a 1972 millones. “El período mostró una aceleración significativa en el sector de la joyería, impulsada en particular por Bvlgari, mientras que los relojes han seguido siendo influenciado por el comportamiento de compra prudente de los minoristas multimarca en un entorno económico incierto”, dice la compañía dirigida por Bernard Arnault. “El lanzamiento de la nueva Lvcea reloj para las mujeres, Bvlgari, y el éxito de las líneas icónicas de Hublot fueron los aspectos más destacados del trimestre.”

Cambio al vertice di Buccellati

Via Thierry Andretta, arriva Gianluca Brozzetti: è lui il nuovo amministratore delegato del Gruppo Buccellati. Il famoso marchio della gioielleria è passato da qualche tempo sotto le insegne del fondo di private equity Clessidra di Claudio Sposito (https://gioiellis.com/una-clessidra-per-buccellati/), che ha chiamato a dirigere i brand del lusso Francesco Trapani, ex amministratore delegato di Bulgari e successivamente super manager di Lvmh. L’arrivo di Trapani ha coinciso con l’offerta di acquisto (forse assieme ai russi di Vtb) del gruppo Stroili. E, forse, anche il cambio della guardia al vertice del brand Buccellati potrebbe essere messo in relazione con un giudizio dell’ex numero uno di Bulgari. Ufficialmente Brozzetti è stato chiamato dal presidente Andrea Buccellati. Il manager fino al gennaio scorso è stato amministratore delegato del gruppo Cavalli, ma aveva lasciato l’incarico a sorpresa. Prima ancora, da 1999 to 2001, è stato president and chief executive officer alla Louis Vuitton. Andretta, come si usa in questi casi, non abbandonerà bruscamente il campo. Al contrario «per motivi personali lascerà i suoi incarichi operativi e assumerà la carica di vice presidente del gruppo, continuando a supportare il management nei programmi di sviluppo del marchio sui mercati internazionali». Federico Graglia

Gianluca Brozzetti & friend
Gianluca Brozzetti & freind
Thierry Andretta
Thierry Andretta
Francesco Trapani con la figlia Lorenza
Francesco Trapani con la figlia Lorenza
Gianmaria Buccellati a VicenzaOro Winter 2013
Gianmaria Buccellati a VicenzaOro Winter 2013

ukChange at the management of Buccellati 

Goodbye Thierry Andretta, comes Gianluca Brozzetti: he is the new ceo of the Group Buccellati. The famous brand of jewelry has gone for some time under the banner of private equity fund Claudio Sposito’s Clessidra (https://gioiellis.com/una-clessidra-per-buccellati/), who has called to lead the brands of  luxury Francesco Trapani, former ceo of Bulgari and then super manager of Lvmh. The arrival of Trapani has coincided with an offer to purchase (perhaps together with the Russian VTB) of the group Stroili. And, perhaps, Trapani is not extraneous even about the changing of the guard at the top of the Buccellati brand. Officially Brozzetti was called by President Andrea Buccellati. The manager, until last January he was managing director of the Cavalli group, but he had left office surprisingly. Prior to that, from 1999 to 2001, he was president and chief executive officer at Louis Vuitton. Andretta, as used in these cases, not leave hardly the company. On the contrary, “for personal reasons leave his operational duties and will assume the position of vice president of the group, continuing to support the management in the development programs of the brand in international markets.”

france-flagChangement à la direction de Buccellati 

Adieau Thierry Andretta, voila Gianluca Brozzetti: il est le nouveau chef de la direction du Groupe Buccellati. La célèbre marque italienne de bijoux a disparu pendant un certain temps sous la bannière de Clessidra de fonds de private equity Claudio Sposito (https://gioiellis.com/una-clessidra-per-buccellati/), qui a appelé à diriger les marques de luxe Francesco Trapani, ancien PDG de Bulgari et super gestionnaire de LVMH. L’arrivée de Trapani a coïncidé avec une offre d’achat (peut-être avec la VTB russe) du groupe Stroili. Et, peut-être, Trapani est pas étrangère même sur le changement de la garde au sommet de la marque Buccellati. Officiellement Brozzetti a été appelé par le président Andrea Buccellati. Le gestionnaire, jusqu’à Janvier dernier, il a été directeur général du groupe Cavalli, mais il avait quitté ses fonctions étonnamment. Avant cela, de 1999 à 2001, il a été président et chef de la direction de Louis Vuitton. Andretta, tel qu’il est utilisé dans ces cas, ne pas laisser à peine la société. Au contraire, “pour des raisons personnelles quittent ses fonctions opérationnelles et assumera les fonctions de vice-président du groupe, en continuant à soutenir la gestion dans les programmes de développement de la marque sur les marchés internationaux.”

german-flagWechsel an der Verwaltung der Buccellati 

Abschied Thierry Andretta, kommt Gianluca Brozzetti: Er ist der neue CEO der Gruppe Buccellati. Die berühmte Marke von Schmuck ist seit einiger Zeit unter dem Banner der Private-Equity-Fonds Claudio Sposito die Clessidra (https://gioiellis.com/una-clessidra-per-buccellati/), wer angerufen hat, um die Marken von Luxus Francesco Trapani führen weg , ehemaliger Ceo von Bulgari und dann Super-Manager LVMH. Die Ankunft von Trapani hat mit einem Angebot an (mit der russischen VTB vielleicht zusammen) den Kauf von der Gruppe Stroili zusammenfiel. Und, vielleicht, ist Trapani nicht fremd, auch über die Wachablösung an der Spitze der Marke Buccellati. Offiziell Brozzetti wurde von Präsident Andrea Buccellati genannt. Der Manager, bis im vergangenen Januar war er Geschäftsführer der Cavalli-Gruppe, aber er überraschend Büro verlassen hatte. Vor, dass von 1999 bis 2001 war er Präsident und Chief Executive Officer bei Louis Vuitton. Andretta, wie in diesen Fällen, nicht kaum verlassen das Unternehmen. Im Gegenteil, “aus persönlichen Gründen verlassen seine operativen Aufgaben und wird die Position des Vice President der Gruppe übernehmen, weiterhin das Management in den Entwicklungsprogrammen der Marke auf den internationalen Märkten zu unterstützen.”

flag-russiaИзменение в управлении Буччеллати 

До свидания Тьерри Andretta, приходит Джанлука Brozzetti: он новый генеральный директор Group Буччеллати. Знаменитый бренд ювелирных изделий пошло на некоторое время под знаменем Clessidra фонд прямых инвестиций Клаудио Спозито в (https://gioiellis.com/una-Clessidra-за-buccellati/), который призван привести бренды класса люкс Франческо Трапани , бывший генеральный директор Bulgari, а затем супер менеджер LVMH. Приход Трапани совпало с предложением купить (возможно совместно с Российской ВТБ) группы Stroili. И, пожалуй, Трапани не посторонний даже о смене караула в верхней части марки Буччеллати. Официально Brozzetti называли президентом Андреа Буччеллати. Менеджер, пока в январе прошлого года он был управляющим директором группы Cavalli, но он ушел в отставку неожиданно. До этого, с 1999 по 2001, он был президентом и главным исполнительным директором в Louis Vuitton. Andretta, используемый в этих случаях, не оставить вряд ли компанию. Напротив, “по личным причинам покинуть свои рабочие обязанности и возьмет на себя должность вице-президента группы, продолжая поддерживать управление в программах развития бренда на международных рынках.”

spagna-okCambie a la gestión de Buccellati 

Adiós Thierry Andretta, viene Gianluca Brozzetti: él es el nuevo director general del Grupo Buccellati. La famosa marca de joyería ha ido por algún tiempo bajo la bandera de Clessidra del fondo de capital privado Claudio Sposito (https://gioiellis.com/una-clessidra-per-buccellati/), que ha llamado a llevar las marcas de lujo Francesco Trapani , ex director ejecutivo de Bulgari y luego súper administrador de LVMH. La llegada de Trapani ha coincidido con una oferta de compra (tal vez junto con el VTB de Rusia) del grupo Stroili. Y, tal vez, Trapani no es ajena incluso sobre el cambio de guardia en la parte superior de la marca Buccellati. Oficialmente Brozzetti fue llamado por el presidente Andrea Buccellati. El gerente, hasta que en enero pasado fue director general del grupo de Cavalli, pero había dejado el cargo sorprendentemente. Antes de eso, desde 1999 a 2001, fue presidente y director ejecutivo de Louis Vuitton. Andretta, como se usa en estos casos, no deja apenas la empresa. Por el contrario, “por razones personales dejan sus tareas operativas y asumirá el cargo de vicepresidente del grupo, sin dejar de apoyar la gestión de los programas de desarrollo de la marca en los mercados internacionales.”

It is a good business to invest in jewelry

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Investing in jewelry is a real bargain. Especially in times of economic turbulence, such as what we live for a few years. It supports the Monte dei Paschi di Siena, which has carried out a study on the art market and that of precious metals. The survey analyzes the art market of the MPS market performance of painting, divided into three segments of reference, summarizing the results of the largest transactions of auction houses ( about 1,550 observations total) in three indices according to the period historical reference : MPS Art Old masters and 19th century Index, MPS and MPS Index Art Pre War Post War Art Index. The evidence of the 3 indices are then summarized in the Global MPS Painting Art Index.

But, as anticipated, the discussion does not end here. Experts have also introduced indexes that aim to analyze the trend of so-called minor arts : antiques, furniture and sculptures, jewelry, wine and photography. Within the minor arts, we analyzed the performance of the sector Jewels compared to other minor arts given the particular function as a safe haven covered in this segment.

The most important segment after painting, in fact, is represented by jewelry and watches, whose temples stand out for their high average turnovers and weighs a total of 14.2% of total revenues ( +3.1% compared to the portion of the first half 2010). This segment is expected to grow further by the experts of MPS, especially given the success that the rods of precious stones and are enjoying all the squares on the continent.

Conclusions : The weight between the various segments still seems to be intended to change, with a strengthening of the minor arts that show, in just the last calendar year and in all categories, the best performance in terms of percentage changes compared to the MPS Global Painting Art Index.

The MPS Jewels index summarizes the trend of the auctions of jewelery, watches and precious stones of the most important international centers : Geneva, London, New York and Hong Kong. The segment shows the growth rates of the most interesting segment of the minor arts, with an increase of 160.8 % over the last 5 years ( first half of 2011 over the first half of 2006).

In comparison with the MPS Minor Arts Index Without Jewels ( +71.0 % between 2006 and 2011 ), it is evident success of the jewelery, which at the moment are confirmed safe haven par excellence, with a performance estimate for 2011 +10, 0% (latest data considered in the study ).

The jewelry will also reveal a rather good ‘liquid’, at least for the high quality pieces : the rods considered to show that the branded jewelery or antiques are a safe investment. In addition to diamonds are always very popular natural stones ( untreated) and natural pearls (not cultivated ). The success of the segment can be attributed to two main reasons: 1 ) the jewelry is seen as a safe haven warranty, and 2) the value of the underlying ( gold, silver, diamond… ) has grown significantly in this period of recession.

Of course, it is not automatically sell a gem, but no more than a painted picture. The unsold rates recorded in the last five semesters, note analysts Sienese bank, settle in the region of the five-year average rates ( average rate per lot 21.4%, 17.6% by value ), and below the peaks achieved in 2008 : the market in the last two years seems to have found a sustainable balance for supply and demand.

Compared to the past, the demand for precious focuses more on top quality diamonds, colored stones with particular as to the Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires and for the Colombian (Muso ) for emeralds.

On the square in New York are appreciated especially great carat white diamonds, as well as large colored stones and colored diamonds. The jewels of the ’20s and ’50s are very welcome in both the old and the new continent. The UK market is more geared towards the cushion cut diamonds for their particular for their luster and charm. In Italy is more and more interest in the vintage jewelry, thanks to a consolidated goldsmith tradition that has produced manufacturing, design and proportions of high quality. The signatures, known internationally, they add value to the jewel with exquisite designs and a perfect bill.

There are, finally, advice for those who decide to embark on an investment in diamonds. It is necessary, experts explain, evaluate the so-called 4 C’s : color ( color), purity ( Clarity ), cut ( Cut) and carat ( Carat ). Not to be overlooked, moreover, proportions, fluorescence and polishing.

The market for fine jewelry is synthesized in a series of graphs. The performance of the MPS Jewels Market Value Index in the entire observation period (September 2008 – September 2011) is quite positive ( +63.5 %) and superior to other national stock indices considered, all in negative territory : SMI ( -4, 9%), CAC 40 ( -36.7 %) ** and FTSE MIB ( -54.5 %) with the exception of S & P 500 ( +2.7%).

The investment in the stock market jewel of luxury appears to be the only positive with respect to the major indices which are representative of 4 -contributing countries, with their society, the definition of MPS Jewels Market Value Index ( Damiani and Bvlgari for Italy, LVMH, Hermès and Dior for France to Switzerland Richemont and Tiffany & Co. for the United States ).

Be careful, though : the dangers out there. The segment of the jewel of luxury, the study continues, it is subjected to numerous threats : 1 ) increasingly strong interest in substitute goods to meet the psycho – physical (eg, travel, spas, gyms, etc. ), 2) increased demand for the productions of the fashion industry, especially by younger people, attracted by prices less prohibitive and innovative features, and 3) preference for fashion products than for products – value ; 4) strong seasonality of sales in some periods of the year ( for jewelry Christmas and Valentine’s Day ), 5 ) the risk of counterfeiting; 6) reputational risk ( for example, when the production is decentralized abroad ) ; 7) change in consumer tastes, often sudden and unreasoned.

The high rates of unemployment and the levels of tax rates in emerging markets are factors that can influence demand. Moreover, the products of the luxury market have good nature of secondary ones, which makes them susceptible to the macroeconomic environment and require a constant upgrading and re-launching the brand.

This is also why in recent months the performance of MPS Jewels Market Value Index was affected by the difficulties in the financial markets ( -20.5 %), but were also negative performance of all other indices ranging from -31.9 % of FTSE MIB to -10.7% for the S & P500.

On the overall performance of the MPS Jewels Market Value Index, however, have impacted primarily LVMH ( -19% approx. ) And Richemont (-23% approx. ) Which together account for about 70%. the entire index.

Little significant effect on the growth performance of the title Bulgari (+50% approx. ) Following the tender offer launched by LVMH, because of its limited weight on the aggregate (4.5% approx. ).