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The jewelry shines, with some shadows

Published on September 10, 2022

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La cerimonia inaugurale di Vicenzaoro, con Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente Italian Exhibition Group, Elena Bonetti, Ministro per le Pari opportunità e famiglia, Erika Stefani, Ministro per le disabilità, Francesco Rucco, sindaco di Vicenza, Roberto Luongo, Direttore Generale ICE Agenzia, Maria Cristina Franco, vicepresidente della Provincia di Vicenza, Claudia Piaserico, presidente Federorafi, Roberto Marcato, Assessore allo Sviluppo Economico ed Energia Regione Veneto

How is the jewelry market in Italy going? This question is answered by the second edition of the economic survey organized by the Goldsmiths Club and Banca Intesa Sanpaolo. The results were defined with a survey among the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The survey was presented in a talk during the first day of Vicenzaoro. Result: everything is fine for now. More than half of the operators hypothesize a growth in turnover, also confirmed by the change in the Istat index, which stood at + 32% in the first half of 2022, better than the sectors of the fashion sector and the average of Italian manufacturing.

Still according to the survey, in terms of industrial production, jewelery and costume jewelery ranks among the best performers of the Italian industry, both in comparison with the first half of 2021 (+ 23%, in fourth position among the manufacturing sectors) and with respect to first six months of 2019 (+ 30%, which earned it third place in the ranking).

Vetrine di Piovani a Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

However, some shadows loom. One is brought about by Russia’s war in Ukraine. The second, on the other hand, concerns the increase in interest rates. Furthermore, the inflationary phenomenon is historically accompanied by the increase in the price of gold. At the beginning of September, the survey confirms, compared to previous editions, a downward revision of expectations was recorded which, however, seems to involve only smaller operators. The larger companies, on the other hand, confirm their stability for the current year with 70% of participants declaring a growth in turnover. It should be added, however, that the quantity of what is sold does not always correspond to the profits written in the financial statements.

In any case, in the first five months of 2022 there was a growth of 41% in value and 15% in quantity of exports. The Made in Italy jewel has managed to consolidate its positioning towards the main commercial competitors. In particular, it gained positions in the United States where it represents the second partner with a share of 12.7% in the first part of 2022.

However, it is surprising that, faced with this uncertain picture, companies complain in particular of the difficulty in finding labor, a problem indicated by 80% of the largest companies, while among smaller companies the attention to transport costs is growing.

The precious carats by Luca Carati

Published on July 22, 2022

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Anello oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti rotondi taglio brillante colore G purezza VVS

The collections by Luca Carati, Maison di Valenza, which continues the tradition of great craftsmanship jewelery ♦

In Valenza and around the jewelry is the queen: the area is teeming with companies able to make their mark in the world of jewelry. As Luca Carati, Italian jewelery company founded in 1988, as always by the initiative of a skilled artisan which is grew over the years and determined to build on his experience. Now the brand of Piedmont propose a jewelry that is born and ends entirely within the walls of the company. And what is capable to do the Maison you can see in the images of some of her jewelry.

Anello in oro rosa con elemento a forma di trifoglio e diamanti rotondi taglio brillante, colore G, purezza Vvs

Luca Carati is keen to stress his own stylistic identity, however, it lies in the tradition consisting of working gold, precious stones and delicate architecture capable of enhancing the colors of gemstones and metal shine. An example is the Plié collection, with a pendant that transforms into a ovoid shape that opens to reveal a three-dimensional flower. It is not simple to implement, but it demonstrates the desire to create an innovative object, preserving the beauty of a jewel.

Orecchini pendenti oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti rotondi taglio brillante colore G, purezza VVS

Orecchini a lobo con elementi trifoglio in oro rosa 18 carati con diamanti rotondi taglioc brillante colore G, purezza VVS e lapislazzulo

Anello in oro rosa 18 carati, corniole naturali taglio cabochon e diamante rotondo taglio brillante colore G, purezza VV

Anello con elemento trifoglio in oro rosa 18 carati, con diamanti rotondi taglio brillante colore G, purezza VVS e malachite

Collier della collezione Piuma, oro bianco e diamanti

Pendente art déco in oro bianco e diamanti

Design in Chianti with Muba Gioielli

Published on May 24, 2022

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Collana in plexiglass nero con due maglie e moschettone in ottone galvanizzato oro

Among the precious rows of vines of the Chianti hills (Tuscany, Italy) and the hills that are jewels of the landscape, there are other jewels, those of Muba. The brand was born from the creativity of the Florentine artists and design Maurizio and Simona Bucciardini. They are the ones who created this small brand of jewelry and costume jewelery that was born, however, with a solid experience as a manufacturer on behalf of third parties.

Anello in ottone galvanizzato oro chiaro con perla e 120 cristalli Swarovski

Muba Gioielli, in fact, has grown within Beauty Brass, a historic Florentine company that has been active since 1986 in the field of artisan production of costume jewelery for third parties. Muba bijoux are made of light gold, palladium or rose gold galvanized brass and are offered at an affordable price. Some collections also use Swarovski crystals. Although these jewels are part of the category that includes rings, necklaces or bracelets with moderate prices, they do not give up on a rather sophisticated design, as evidenced by collections such as Muba Pipe or Muba Ics.

Anello in ottone galvanizzato oro, con nodo

Collana in ottonre galvanizzato oro vintage con maglia smaltata color Tiffany

Collana in ottone galvanizzato oro chiaro con ciondolo a goccia

Collana con catena leggera galvanizzata oro chiaro e particolari in smalto bianco

Collana in plexiglass rosa con due maglie e moschettone in ottone galvanizzato palladio

The second century of Micheletto

Published on October 13, 2021

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It has just turned a century, but it does not prove it: Micheletto, a jewelry brand made in Milan, boasts a long history, but also a vitality that has not faded over the years. This is also due to Roberta Micheletto, the third generation of the family of jewelers who has combined work for big brands, for example Van Cleef & Arpels, with her own production. And with a style that is in perfect harmony with the design tradition of the city: the search for simple and elaborate proportions at the same time, with variations on the theme of the chain, or voluminous bracelets is one of the keys to the success of the Maison, which he also exports his creations abroad.

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti

Micheletto is one of the oldest Italian goldsmiths still in business. In any case, it is the oldest in Milan: it can boast the 10 MI mark, which dates back to 1920: it indicates that in that year it was the tenth Italian goldsmith company registered with the Milan metric office. But the history of the company has even more ancient roots: it dates back, in fact, to the end of the nineteenth century, when two Milanese families, Locatelli and Canevari, opened a large goldsmith workshop. Which, at the beginning of the new century, was bought by Emilio Micheletto (husband of his daughter Locatelli). The company has worked for major brands, thanks to the expertise of its craftsmen.

New processing techniques, reorganization, conquest of the American market and the invention of the extrusion rod (to lighten the jewel while keeping the volume intact), a technique that has innovated the sector, have further strengthened the Milanese brand. Liz Taylor, Joan Collins and Lady D wore Micheletto jewels, particularly appreciated today in the United Arab Emirates and in the countries of Northern Europe.

Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti

Anello con catena cubana in oro bianco e diamanti

Bracciale a catena cubana in oro giallo 18 carati e diamanti

Mariani 1878, an encore a century and a half long

Published on September 26, 2021

Rings/alta gioielleria/Showroom

Anello con smeraldo di 6 carati, diamanti e smeraldi a cornice

In 2017 it won the Design Couture Awards in Las Vegas in the People’s choise category. And in 2021 Mariani 1878 did it again, this time in the Best in Gold category. The Maison based in Monza, a town a stone’s throw from Milan, is preparing to celebrate 150 years of a life full of awards, which testify to a goldsmith’s skill across the board. The previous prize, for example, was awarded thanks to Pon Pon, a three-dimensional drop pendant with 27 carats of very high quality diamonds. in the jewel each diamond was set individually and inserted in a sort of network that surrounds the central solitaire.

Mariani 1878, pendente con diamanti. Vincitore nella categoria Best in People's Choice — Mariani 1878, pendente Pon Pon con diamanti. Vincitore nella categoria Best in People’s Choice

A jewel, the one presented at the Couture, which seems to have also enticed Melania Trump, at the time first lady with domicile in the White House. On the other hand, Mariani jewels in the US have also convinced celebrities Sylvester Stallone and Denzel Washington, in the mood for gifts to their partners.

Four years later, however, it was been a pair of long earrings with a burnished gold and diamond link that convinced the jury. The Maison, as its name indicates, was founded in 1878 and is managed by the brothers Carlo and Federico Mariani, graduates in economics and masters in gemology, under the guidance of their father Giuseppe Mariani, direct descendant of the founder Camillo Mariani.

Anelli in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, smalto

The labyrinths of Asad Ventrella

Published on January 18, 2021

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Simple metal, but design and a touch of art. The mix is the characteristic of Asad Ventrella Contemporastudio, a company founded in 1999 in Naples. Although it is just over 20 years old, behind the craft company there is a long history that reaches the laboratory of Asad’s uncles and his father, Roberto Ventrella. A name, that of the family, which belongs to a dynasty of goldsmiths already active in the early nineteenth century and continues today.

The first artisan of the dynasty, Giuseppe Ventrella, was a master goldsmith in Naples during the Bourbon period. The tradition has continued to this day with Asad who, however, has chosen a path that is only partly the result of the history of the past. His pieces, in fact, are super modern, of design, small sculptures that travel a completely different path from that of traditional jewelery. The Labirinto series (which is also the symbol of the Maison), or the rings with twisted and rounded shapes are made of metal, silver or bronze alloy. In short, nothing to do with the ancient Neapolitan goldsmith’s art, if not for the craftsmanship in the creation of the pieces.

Gilberto Cassola without borders

Published on December 10, 2020

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Now that it has also arrived on the platform of an international marketplace that sells via the web, Gilberto Cassola, a historic company from Valenza, certainly has better visibility abroad. The brand specializes in refined goldsmith work aimed in particular at the US market (where it sells almost 50% of its jewels), in addition to the European one. The company was founded in 1965 by Gilberto Cassola together with his partner Luciano Provera (Cassola & Provera was the name until 1982). Like many other artisan workshops in the area, Cassola has long carried out work on behalf of third parties, even for large Maison such as Van Cliff & Arpels and Cartier. In particular, among the specialties of the company there are jewels with diamond pavé.

Gilberto Cassola personally took care of designing models and managing the company: the classic handyman entrepreneur. The two partners split in 1982 and, in the 1990s, with the entry into the company of their son Graziano Cassola, the decision to produce jewelry with their own brand also came.

Anello con pavé di diamanti neri e ametista

Anello in oro rosa, smalto rosso e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, smalto blu e diamanti

Anello con charm a cuore con pavé di zaffiri

The second life of Annaratone

Published on December 8, 2020

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Annaratone, anello della collezione Portofino

From the ancient goldsmith tradition to gems created in the laboratory. Annaratone Jewelry is a company from Valenza (Piedmont, Italy) founded in 2014. But it has its roots in the initiative of Marco Giuseppe Vincenzo Annaratone, who created their own company in 1974. Annarratone was one of the famous workshops for processing, in particular of necklaces, but also of custom-made objects for third parties. Among the many, a gold family tree based on amethystes produced for an oriental monarch. The new life began, however, six years ago with the entry into the company of Elisa Annaratone, who took over from her father, and flanked by her husband and partner Arturo Bonaventi. The designer and the manager.

In 2019, a third partner was added, Oscar Narratone. Annaratone deals almost exclusively with the design and production of gold, silver or platinum wire jewels, of its own creation or on specific commission. But the company also produces collections with its own brand, such as those inspired by some Italian locations, such as Villa D’Este, Spiaggia Rosa, Grotta Azzurra, Portofino and Bellagio. The novelty, compared to many other Maison of the Piedmontese goldsmith district, is the use of synthetic stones, that is, created in the laboratory, next to gold. They are of high quality and therefore, not distinguishable by eye from natural ones. The choice is also dictated by ethical and environmental sustainability reasons.

Anello della collezione Villa d'Este — Anello della collezione Villa d’Este

Collier anello della collezione Portofino

Collana della collezione Villa d'Este — Collana della collezione Villa d’Este

The Lux by Alunno & Marcantoni

Published on September 19, 2020

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In the Italian gold district, Arezzo, there is a long goldsmith tradition, but also a desire for innovation. These two elements, craftsmanship and industrial technology, are summarized by Alunno & Marcantoni, a company founded in 1982 on the initiative of Giorgio Alunno and Rossana Marcantoni, partners in work and life. Together they have created a company that combines the industrial approach with that of creativity. An example of this is the Lux collection, which includes earrings, bracelet, ring and necklace made with a soft and rather voluminous design. So much so that it is easy to suspect that wearing a bracelet from this collection for an entire evening relieves you from the time spent in the gym. Misconception: the bracelet is large, gold, but weighs only 25 grams.

It is also easy to get the wrong opinion also about the pavé placed in the center which, in reality, is simply a glued Swarovski surface. They look like diamonds though. The expedient allows the price of the bracelet to be reduced to 1,300 euros. Similar reasoning can be made for the other pieces in the collection.

Bracciale in oro con applicazione Swarovski

By the way, the company’s innovation rate also includes attention to the quality and well-being of the territory: the laboratory uses the sun as a source of natural, clean and renewable energy thanks to the photovoltaic panels that cover the roof of the company.

Anello in oro elettroformato con applicazione leopardo

Jewels for an aperitif with Roberta Risolo

Published on May 27, 2020

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The global health crisis leads the world of jewelry to rethink the way we communicate. Here is a new one: aperitifs via Instagram. The idea is by Roberta Risolo, goldsmith artist from Otranto, a small (and enchanting) village in Puglia (it is also the most eastern point of Italy). The designer inaugurated a series of events called Aperitif with jewel overlooking the sea, live on Instagram from Otranto on the profile www.instagram.com/robertarisoloartjewels. The desire expressed by the designer “is to give a positive message, shortening distances through new digital tools, and to share the beauty of Otranto, talking about craftsmanship and jewelry with everyone”. Also through the words of history scholars such as Emanuela Fogliadini and François Boespflug.

Roberta Risolo nel suo atelier a Otranto

Meanwhile the Atelier Roberta Risolo Art Jewels in the ancient village of Otranto is ready to welcome visitors following all the current indications in terms of safety. Fantasy in promoting your business, therefore, but also in your work.

Her creations, she explains, are linked to the culture of Salento, both for the characteristic materials such as olive wood and for the architecture of its territory. Like the rose window of the Cathedral of Otranto, the rings in olive wood and pearl, the pendants inspired by the decorative motifs of the Basilica of Santa Caterina di Alessandria in Galatina and much more.

After her studies, interest in goldsmithery led Roberta Risolo to Vicenza, one of the Italian jewelry districts, where she attended specialization courses and had her first work experiences. Back in Puglia, today she alternates teaching with the activity of her Atelier in Porta Terra, inaugurated in 2016. Her motto: “Always believe in the beauty of your dreams”.

Roberta Risolo, lavorazione delle Chiavi di Otranto

Better Silver is ok by Cerved Rating Agency

Published on January 31, 2020

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Corporate finance: a certificate of solidity arrives for Better Silver, a Vicenza-based company that has been operating for forty years on the international market in the production and marketing of Made in Italy silver jewelery.

Orecchino con stemma della squadra di Better Silver

In fact, the credit rating company Cerved Rating Agency has confirmed the A3.1 rating to Better Silver. Cerved Rating Agency therefore places Better Silver in a safe area. The company also confirmed for 2019 the good performances already highlighted in recent years: the pre-closing 2019 data indicate a substantial maintenance of revenues at around 47 million euros and an Ebitda margin of 11.2%.

The commercial strategy set in the last year, oriented to the redefinition of some commercial agreements, together with the consolidation of the historical customer base (+3 million revenues) and the development of new collaborations, has allowed to enhance the market share both in the territory nationally and abroad. The financial structure remains sustainable in the short term and a progressive improvement is expected due to the expected increase in sales volumes and operating margins. For 2020, management estimates revenue growth of 10.8% on 2019 and a margin of around 12%.

Negozio di Roma 1947, marchio di Better Silver

These projections are believed to be reliable by Cerved Rating Agency, the European rating agency headed by the Cerved Group, by virtue of the advantages that may derive both from the new product launches scheduled for the first half of 2020 and from the new business opportunities currently being defined.

Orecchini in argento 925 placcato oro rosa 18k con perle d'acqua dolce. Prezzo: 94 euro — Orecchini in argento 925 placcato oro rosa 18k con perle d’acqua dolce di Roma 1947

The curves of Gavello

Published on July 31, 2019

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The jewels of the Milanese Maison Gavello: the nostalgia of the Seventies with unpredictable variations ♦ ︎

At the end of the seventies, in Milan, Rinaldo and Martha Gavello started their jewelry company. Gavello, almost half a century later, is today led by his daughter Elisabetta, responsible for the design and identity of the brand. But it is still a jewelry brand that loves to invent. Always, however, with a stylistic link linking creativity to what was a golden age (it must be said) for design. The jewels of Gavello, in fact, do not look for special effects with the assembly of an array of colored gems or diamonds with an unattainable number of carats.

The jewels of Gavello play instead on the shape, on the geometries, on a sinuous design, with the surface of 14 or 18-carat gold that is interrupted at times to leave space for some diamond, alone or in pavé. Or with precious or semi-precious gems such as moonstone and turquoise, amethyst, but also rubies and emeralds. Alessia Mongrando

Orecchini in oro rosa 14 carati, con pavé di ametista e rubini

Pendente a forma di spada in oro rosa, diamanti neri, rubini

Orecchini Jasmine in oro rosa e pietra luna

Gold Italy comes back

Published on July 16, 2019

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Gold Italy returns to Arezzo in October, a fair dedicated to professional jewelry operators ♦ ︎

It will be golden autumn in Arezzo (Tuscany). From October 26th to 28th, in fact, Gold Italy is scheduled, an autumn event in which the best Made in Italy goldsmith meets international buyers. The event, organized by Italian Exhibition Group, is now in its seventh edition and is dedicated to a professional audience: it will again occupy the Arezzo Fiere Congressi pavilions with the formula of the international business workshop.

Immagine della passata edizione di Gold Italy

On display is a selection of brands and companies from all Italian goldsmith districts, namely Arezzo, Vicenza, Valenza, Torre del Greco, Milan: they will present the national goldsmith production, appreciated for its extraordinary design and innovative creativity, silverware, semi-finished products, stones and components for buyers from the main outlet markets of the sector, from the United States to the Middle East, from Eastern Europe to Hong Kong and Asia.

Gold Italy takes place in three areas: the Cash & Carry, aimed primarily at retailers, who can choose and buy a wide variety of products on the market, the section dedicated to Packaging, and the Tech area, which hosts the technologies for processing.
The event offers a business opportunity thanks to the ability to carry out the exchange between supply and demand. Buyers and exhibitors, in fact, can virtually share their agenda and organize targeted meetings thanks to the innovative digital Business Matching platform developed by Ieg exclusively for the first time in the gold sector during the last edition.

Bulgari, jewels on display

Published on June 28, 2019

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L'allestimento curato da Chiara Ottaviano

Spectacular jewelry by Bulgari in an exhibition in Italy dedicated to the Roman Maison ♦ ︎

Not everyone knows that the origin of the Bulgari name derives from the fact that the historic jewelry Maison, which is now part of the LVMH group, was founded in Bulgaria. But it happened a long time ago: in 1884. Bulgari was founded by the Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris, who arrived in Italy and became Sotirio Bulgari. Many years have passed and Bulgari has become an icon of luxury, capable of creating exceptional jewels.

Bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti

Now the most beautiful jewels of the Bulgari Heritage collection, including those belonging to the divas of the Dolce Vita, will be exhibited from June 26 (inauguration on the 25th) until November 3rd, in the exhibition entitled Bulgari, the story, the dream, hosted by two locations Museum Center of Lazio, Castel Sant’Angelo and Palazzo Venezia.

Collana con rubellite, tormaline, granati, peridoti, diamanti

The project was conceived by the Polo Museale del Lazio, directed by Edith Gabrielli, in collaboration with Bulgari and created through contents selected by a scientific committee composed of exponents of the academic world such as Francesco Benigno (Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa), Chiara Ottaviano (historian and sociologist of mass communication), Daniela Luigia Caglioti (University Federico II of Naples), Emanuela Scarpellini (University of Milan). The themes related to style and creativity were developed by Lucia Boscaini, Bulgari brand and heritage curator. Curated by Chiara Ottaviano, the exhibition traces the history of Bulgari as an example of success in luxury.

Bulgari, collier con rubini, zaffiri, lapis, diamanti

Collier con zaffiri, rubini, smeraldi, diamanti

Collana Serpenti con ametista, smeraldi, turchesi e diamanti

Bracciale in oro rosa, madreperla, diamanti

Italian jewelry is extra-ordinary according to Ieg

Published on November 22, 2018

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Agreement between Italian Exhibition Group and Confindustria Federorafi to communicate the extraordinary nature of Italian jewelery ♦ ︎

Italian Exhibition Group and Confindustria Federorafi sign an agreement to enhance Italian jewelery at an international level. The agreement was signed at the Vod Dubai International Jewelery Show. Ieg, a company that also organizes VicenzaOro and OroArezzo, and Confindustria aim, in short, to “a unique strategy for the promotion of Italian jewelry on international markets, through the involvement of companies, the leverage of fairs and within the framework of policies for the consolidation of Made in Italy abroad prepared by the Ministry of Economic Development “.

In short, the initiative will result in a communication campaign.

Important point in view of the international development of the sector, we read in a press release, the sharing with IEG of the project to create creativity for the promotion abroad of the Italian goldsmith-jeweler system, based on the indications expressed by Confindustria Federorafi and then entrust yourself to the skills of a creative agency.

Creativity, according to the two entities, expresses the extraordinary nature of Italian jewelry as a beautiful and well-made product with all its material and immaterial values, illustrating the claim The Extraordinary Italian Jewelry, in conjunction with the campaigns already carried out by the Ice Agency (Istituto for foreign trade), and is represented by a series of images that link typically Italian lifestyle concepts to Italian jewelery.

Vetrina di Casato a VicenzaOro. ©Gioiellis.com

Lo stand di Pasquale Bruni nella passata edizione di VicenzaOro — Booth di Pasquale Bruni a VicenzaOro