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More and more artificial diamonds for De Beers

Published on June 24, 2023

Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD di De Beers

If the diamond giant, the one who coined the claim “a diamond is forever” chooses to compete with itself, there is something strange. De Beers five years ago surprisingly launched the synthetic diamond brand Lightbox. Now the company, which is controlled by the Anglo American mining group, is relaunching. Basically, the brand most famous for its diamonds, since it extracts almost 30% of global production from the earth, will push on diamonds created in the laboratory, which cost less.

Punto luce di Lightbox — Lightbox necklace

At the basis of the choice is the declining price of natural diamonds. Although many believe that the gems most desired by women are a safe investment, which over time increases in value, the price of diamonds has fallen by about 20% from the highs of February 2022. Meanwhile, India and China produce an ever more synthetic diamonds, created in the laboratory, at ever lower prices. Fierce competition. For the uninitiated, diamonds produced in the laboratory are chemically indistinguishable from natural ones, even if an accurate analysis can determine the artificial origin of the gems. With the naked eye, however, no one is able to perceive the difference.

La nuova miniera: l'impianto di produzione in Oregon di diamanti artificiali — Lightbox (De Beers) Man-Made Diamond Oregon Manufacturing Facility

Precisely for this reason the total share of synthetic diamonds in a few years has gone from about 2% to almost 10% of the total according to some experts. And, at the same time, their price has dropped by 60%. But that’s not all, because according to some estimates, perhaps optimistic, if you look at the jewelry sector (i.e. those diamonds that are not used for industry) the sales of rings, earrings or necklaces with artificial gems would be close to 50% . The percentage probably refers to the diamond jewelery segment in the specific American market and not to the whole. But although it is difficult to understand how these estimates correspond to reality, everyone agrees that the sales of laboratory diamond jewelry is on the rise. And De Beers’ moves seem only an acknowledgment of reality. Even on the industrial front, things are not better: the Global Rough Diamond Price Index, relating to rough stones, is down by 18% compared to the all-time high it had reached in February 2022.

De Beers has therefore created a line of premium products, Finest, with laboratory diamonds certified in the same way as natural ones. In fact, even artificial diamonds can be of different quality. The certification is based on the same criteria used for natural diamonds, with the classic 4Cs. A further step by De Beers is the promotion with marketing actions of engagement rings with solitaire diamonds created in the laboratory, for now in the USA. Almost a blasphemy for those who love natural diamonds, created in the depths of the earth millions of years ago. And to think that De Beers at the debut of the Lightbox brand had underlined the unbridgeable differences between natural and artificial diamonds.

Controllo del reattore al plasma CVD che produce diamanti in laboratorio — Control of CVD plasma reactor producing diamonds in De Beers laboratory

Are lab grown diamonds sustainable?

Published on April 23, 2023

Campus

Il diamante da 110 carati con cui è stata realizzata la collana

Are natural diamonds or lab-grown ones better? Which diamonds are more sustainable? And which ones have a greater value over time? Questions that, presumably, will continue to be topical even in the coming years. Because especially in China and India, diamond factories created with sophisticated machines and at ever lower prices have multiplied. Furthermore, those who produce and sell synthetic or laboratory diamonds can argue that these gems are completely identical to natural ones, at least in terms of chemical composition. So who is right?

Lesotho Legend, grande diamante grezzo di 910 carati — Lesotho Legend, large natural rough diamond of 910 carats

Natural diamond producers are concerned about the spread of jewelry made with lab-created stones. For this reason, the Natural Diamond Council, an association that brings together companies such as De Beers Group, Dominion Diamonds, Lucara Diamond, Petra Diamonds, RZM Murowa and Rio Tinto, has decided to explain its reasons. And to dispel some myths that accompany laboratory diamonds. These are answers, from the point of view of mining companies, which above all contest the idea that synthetic diamonds are green, friends of the environment. Even if it cannot be ignored that De Beers has been selling synthetic diamonds for some years through the Lightbox Jewelry brand…
Let’s see what the arguments of the Natural Diamond Council are.

Un diamante grezzo emerge dal reattore al plasma CVD — A rough synthetic diamond emerges from the CVD plasma reactor

Are lab-grown diamonds the same as natural ones?
In fact, explains the Natural Diamond Council, diamonds created in the laboratory can be distinguished from natural diamonds through the use of professional verification tools. Lab grown diamonds are produced on a large scale in a few weeks, while natural ones are billions of years old, and have specific characteristics and patterns linked to their growth system (there are two methods for creating synthetic diamonds).

Anello in oro giallo e diamanti di laboratorio — Ring in yellow gold and laboratory diamonds by Grown Brilliance

Are lab-grown diamonds sustainable?
According to the Natural Diamond Council, lab-grown diamonds replicate the natural process of creating diamonds, which requires a considerable amount of electricity, mainly from the national grid. More than 60% of lab-grown diamonds are produced in China and India, where 63% and 74% of electricity grids, respectively, are coal-fired. Furthermore, the production of diamonds in the laboratory can require very high temperatures approaching 20% of the solar surface temperature.

Does natural diamonds mean they are a limited natural resource?
Formation takes place over millions, sometimes billions of years, and occurs in limited areas of the earth’s mantle, under extreme temperatures and pressures. Global recovery of natural diamonds peaked in 2005, then declined by 30% over the past 16 years.

Anello trilogy in oro bianco con diamanti cresciuti in laboratorio — White gold trilogy ring with lab grown diamonds

Have lab-created diamonds depreciated in recent years?
From 2016 to 2023, the average price of a 1.5-carat lab-created diamond fell by more than 74%, the Natural Diamond Council insists. Conversely, although the prices of natural diamonds have fluctuated over the past 35 years, on average they have increased by 3% per year.

Diamante blu di laboratorio — Laboratory blue diamond

Is mining natural diamonds ethically sustainable?
Thanks to the Kimberley Process, promoted by the United Nations and the World Trade Organization, the trade in rough diamonds, diamond producers add, is regulated to ensure that it is conflict-free. The Responsible Jewelery Council (RJC) ensures responsible sourcing through third-party verified certifications. And brands, retailers and jewelers are increasingly implementing ethical sourcing protocols and policies to ensure transparency in their supply chains.

Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici

Does mining for natural diamonds harm the environment?
According to the Natural Diamond Council, natural diamonds help protect biodiversity over an area the size of the cities of New York, Chicago, Washington D.C. and Las Vegas combined. De Beers Group, for example, is working with Kelp Blue to study the potential of algae to store carbon while improving marine health. Diamond Route is a network created by the De Beers Group to protect threatened natural habitats in South Africa and Botswana.

Are natural diamonds harmful to the countries where they are mined?
The natural diamond industry, producers say, supports the livelihoods of 10 million people worldwide. Up to 80% of the rough diamond’s value remains in local communities in the form of local purchases, employment benefits, social programs, infrastructure investments, taxes, royalties and dividends paid by the industry to their respective governments. For NDC members, 85% of all procurement is local. And in Canada, the natural diamond industry contributes 24% of total GDP in the Northwestern Territories, where $17 billion went to businesses (NWT) and $7.5 billion to Indigenously Owned Businesses (NWT).

The metamorphosis of high jewelery by De Beers

Published on January 30, 2023

alta gioielleria

High jewelry that transforms itself and becomes the subject of a metamorphosis. It happens with the new De Beers collection Metamorphosis which is inspired by the transformation of something, or someone, into another of a different nature, as happens in mythological or fantasy stories. But, in this case, the metamorphoses are those that are part of nature, at least in the intentions of the specialized brand and almost synonymous with diamonds. In any case, jewels are ideally linked to natural events, such as the four seasons. Precisely for this reason, the jewels have been designed and created with warm colours, such as pink or yellow gold, brown and yellow diamonds.

Anello con diamanti bianchi, gialli e brown

Furthermore, the goldsmith’s work is very elaborate, with refined setting of precious stones. Goldsmith technique enthusiasts can admire the use of a fil couteau (i.e. a knife setting), a serti neige (i.e. a sort of snow pavé, more irregular) and the use of perlage (i.e. gold beads ). Among the others, for its creative flair, an ear cuff-style earring with four finely crafted fringes hanging from diamonds of different sizes stands out. At the end of each fringe is a colored titanium drop. These items can also be removed and worn separately, as charms on a bracelet.

Bracciale della collezione Metamorphosis

The necklace can also be transformed with a detachable clip and pear-shaped yellow diamond: it can be worn individually as a brooch. These, however, are only the first jewels of the collection, a line called Prelude. More pieces will arrive for the summer.

Orecchini a cerchio in oro rosa, bianco e diamanti

Collana con una clip staccabile e diamante a forma di pera: può essere indossata come una spilla

The challenge of blue diamonds

Published on October 16, 2022

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The De Beers Exceptional Blue Collection

Color challenges for diamond enthusiasts (and investors). After the record-breaking pink diamonds, a new auction is expected but centered on a different shade, blue. This time it is Sotheby’s to present a group of eight fancy blue diamonds, which have been valued in total over 70 million dollars. Diamonds will be the protagonists of several Magnificent Jewels auctions, this winter and next spring. The name given to these gems, The De Beers Exceptional Blue Collection, indicates their origin: the company specializing in “women-friendly” stones.

Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell'asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby's a Ginevra — Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell’asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby’s a Ginevra

The eight diamonds have different shapes and weights: they include an oval brilliant cut diamond of 1.22 carats, one step cut of 11.29 carats, for a total weight of 32.09 carats between them. Three diamonds will be offered this year: a 5.53-carat fancy blue at auction scheduled in Geneva on November 9, a 3.24-carat diamond and a 2.08-carat diamond in New York on December 7th. De Beers and Diacore paid a total of $ 40.36 million for five rough blue diamonds from the Cullinan mine weighing 85.62 carats in November 2020. In nearly two years, Diacore has cut and polished the five rough stones to create the eight blue diamonds from the collection that Sotheby’s now presents.
The valuation of diamonds of this type is quite difficult. Suffice it to say that the 11.29 has an estimate of between 28 and 50 million dollars.

Tiffany ring, mystery setting and trilogy

Published on September 17, 2022

Campus

The three techniques of jewelry that you absolutely must know if you do not want to make bad figures. The first is … ♦

There are jewels that have marked an era. Which have been copied, imitated, and made famous by famous people. In short, milestones in the history of jewelry that you absolutely must know. They are those jewels that have been made with a technique or a form that you must know, if you do not want to make fools. We have selected three of the many jewelery stages.

1 The Tiffany frame

Invented in 1866 by Charles Tiffany and his team of gemologists, it soon became an industrial standard for engagement rings: six platinum spikes (claws) that like claws sprout from the base of the ring and support it in an almost invisible way. to reflect the maximum of light. The traditional alternative, which is still used, is the ring with four jaws. The six brands, however, can be smaller and thinner, so as to bring out the stone and lock it more accurately. Simple, but brilliant.

Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante

Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany

2 The invisible mystery setting

Patented by Van Cleef & Arperls in 1933, it consists of cutting small parallel grooves along the stone belts downwards and placing them one by one on a gold or platinum net. In practice, it is the gem itself to be inserted into this structure and to hold the nearby stone, with an interlocking game that can be worth even 300 hours of work for a pin. The system is mainly used for rubies and sapphires, while the emerald with its inclusions makes this operation rather risky because it could disintegrate if cut badly. Only in 1990 was this setting developed for diamonds. But today’s advanced techniques with software modeling make this process economically prohibitive, not only for the cost of labor, but also for excessive waste material. Despite this, the mystery setting style is still used by masters of jewelry, such as Jar.

Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels

Spilla Van Cleef & Arpels, zaffiri Mistery setting e pavé di diamanti rotondi

3 The Trilogy ring

In this case it is not a patent or a special technique, but one of the most successful marketing campaigns in the industry: the three diamonds mounted on jaws or set on a faith were certainly not new, but in 1990 De Beers proposed with an advertising campaign created by the American agency JW Thompson. The slogan was: “present, past, future”, declined in about 2000 advertising films and remained in the minds of consumers, so much so that all the jewelers of the wedding segment were pushed to keep a similar model in their catalog.

Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti di Damiani

The secrets of the princess cut

Published on August 19, 2022

Campus

Diamonds with princess cut, also chosen by Emily Ratajkowski, seems to have a lot of fans. That’s why ♦

Do you want feel as princesses? It’s easy, just choose a ring with a princess cut diamond, enjoyed even by Emily-Ratajkowski. The engagement rings princess cut diamonds, that is squared (square or rectangular), they have a recent history. This type of cut was introduced only in 1960, but encoded in 1981 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itskowitz. In return, it quickly became popular. The reason is simple: it seems so much. A princess cut diamond should have an average of 58 to 76 facets but, what is more important, it seems larger than the classic round brilliant cut (ie round). Even in the upside-down pyramid shape with rounded sides it has a very good performance in terms of light reflection. The right considered ratio between the sides to a square shape is between 1 and 1.05, while for the rectangular shape is 1 to 1.10 to 1.20.

Emily Ratajkowski con l'anello di fidanzamento: ha due diamanti taglio princess da 2 carati e un diamante a forma di pera a 3 carati su una fascia d'oro — Emily Ratajkowski con l’anello di fidanzamento: ha due diamanti taglio princess da 2 carati e un diamante a forma di pera a 3 carati su una fascia d’oro

Another advantage is that usually the stones cut in this way also have a lower cost in proportion, because it wastes less material from the rough stone. In particular, the princess shape keeps about 80% of the rough diamond, while the round brilliant retains only about 50%. If then around the diamond princess cut are joined other small stones, the effect is assured. No coincidence that many Maison offer from engagement rings with diamonds cut in this way.

Anello in oro e platino con diamante taglio princess

Buying Tips
Experts advise to choose at least one diamond with VS2 clarity, H color and, of course, a stone cut well. How? Try to draw an imaginary line that crosses the stone for the length, and observed whether the facets on the right and left halves have the same shape and size. Now, do the same operation in the horizontal direction and see if the opposite faces are the same size. Observe also the bottom and check that there are no cracks in the stone. And, last but not least, wear the ring.

Anello di Cartier, collezione 1895. Prezzo: da 3500 euro

Anello di Vuitton in oro rosa con piccolo diamante taglio princess. Prezzo: 1150 euro

Anello Tiffany con diamante taglio princess. A partire da 10.800 euro

Anello di De Beers. Prezzo: 4350 dollari

La proporzione dei diamanti taglio princess di diverse carature

Moi & Toi, story of a mythic ring

Published on July 23, 2022

Showroom/Rings

Moi et Toi, a shape of ring that is timeless. Like love. Here are some of the most fascinating rings Moi et Toi ♦

Two diamonds are better than one, especially in a ring. Who could argue otherwise? And not to copy a famous advertisement for De Beers, but because the ring style Toi et Moi, which has existed for centuries, with two stones on the ends that touch, exactly opposite, is the symbol of the union. Napoleon had engraved in 1796 on the shank of the engagement ring for his future wife Josephine, “You and me (toi et moi in French) , forever.” Hence the name, and the growing popularity of this type of setting, which reached its peak between the 19th and the 20th century.

Perhaps because it traced the romantic fashion of courting chair or sofa tete-a-tete with two seats positioned in S, so as to be able to speak, looking at each other in front. In reality, it has never gone out of fashion: John Kennedy gave a crossover Van Cleef & Arpels engagement ring to Jacqueline, with an emerald and a colorless diamond princess cut. Even the Queen of Denmark Margret had received one with two colorless diamonds six carat square cut, also made by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1967.

Anello Moi et Toi di Margaret di Danimarca

The jewelery brand continues to offer this style in the collection Snowflake flower shaped. And it is this detail that distinguishes the contemporary pieces: there is limited to offering stones proportions similar perhaps with contrasting colors, but they are decorative elements confront one another. Of course, when it comes to exceptional stones symmetry is fundamental to enhance their beauty. For example, in some specimens of Bulgari, that sometimes you can find in the jewelry auctions or those sold by Graff, Harry Winston, Alexander Reza, Messika or Picchiotti. Here a selection of the most beautiful and precious you can in the rooms for important customers of jewelers.

Anello Toi & Moi in oro bianco e smalto nero con zaffiro rosa, smeraldo colombiano, diamanti — Nikos Koulis, anello Toi & Moi in oro bianco e smalto nero con zaffiro rosa, smeraldo colombiano, diamanti

Lavorazione di un anello Toi & Moi by Messika

Anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e fancy yellow — Picchiotti, anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e fancy yellow

Anello toi et moi in oro, 1939 — Verdura, anello toi et moi in oro, 1939

Anello Toi et Moi di Bulgari, con diamante e smeraldo

Collezione Timeless Wonderss. Anello Toi e Moi, in oro bianco, diamanti, tormaline Paraiba e rubellite del Mozambico — Vania Leles, aollezione Timeless Wonderss. Anello Toi e Moi, in oro bianco, diamanti, tormaline Paraiba e rubellite del Mozambico

Messika, anello Toi et Moi Poires con due diamanti a goccia da 7 carati uno incolore e l’altro rosa

Graff Diamonds, anello con diamante Fancy Brown Orange Internally Flawless da 5,01 carati e un diamante Fancy Vivid Orange Yellow da 5,05 carati entrambi a forma di pera, con pavé di diamanti incolore sul gambo

De Beers, collezione Aria anello Toi et Moi con due diamanti taglio brillante e strati spirale di pavé su oro bianco

Giampiero Bodino, anello colllezione I tesori del mare in oro rosa, corallo e perle nere Tahiti coltivate

Boucheron, anello Toi et Moi collezione Serpent Bohème in oro bianco e 16 diamanti taglio rotondo. Prezzo: 7.600 euro

Taffin, James de Givanchy per Sotheby’s Diamonds anello in oro rosa e bianco con due diamanti taglio goccia e diamanti taglio rotondo rosa e incolore

PasqualeBruni1 — Pasquale Bruni, collezione Bon Ton anello Toi et Moi in oro rosa, calcedonio in due tonalità e diamanti taglio brillante

Chopard, anello Toi et Moi edizione limitata in oro bianco con due diamanti taglio cuore di da 3,03 e 3,01 carati circondati da pavé di diamanti

Picchiotti1 — Picchiotti, anello collezione La Marquise con due diamanti incolore taglio marchesa circondati da rubini taglio baguette

Alexandre Reza, anello con due diamanti taglio pera, uno incolore da 5,42 carati e l’altro Fancy Vivid azzurro da 5, 02 carati venduto in un’asta di Christie’s

New alchemy of light by De Beers

Published on July 8, 2022

alta gioielleria/Showroom

Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti centrali fancy, titanio e alluminio

For years, De Beers has entered the synthetic diamond market with the Lightbox brand. But The Alchemist of Light is, instead, the name of the high jewelery collection that obviously uses natural diamonds. Light, as we know, can cause different effects. A taste of the collection arrived in January. Six months later the big company that is synonymous with the most loved stone by women (a De Beers ad introduced the famous “a diamond is forever”) adds a new set of jewelry. In total there are 45 pieces of high jewelery made with diamonds of different cuts.

Anello della linea Frozen Capture con diamante di 8,24 carati al centro, incastonato in cristallo di rocca

During the haut couture week in Paris De Beers showed five new sets: Dusk Reflection, Ascending Shadows, Midnight Aura, Optical Wonder and Frozen Capture. The diamonds used are not only white or, more correctly, colorless, but also fancy. They are unique pieces, particularly rich and elaborate, with a modern design and use of titanium colored in pink and blue shades.

Collana Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio

As an established trend now seems, the Alchemist of Light collection also features transformable pieces, such as the Dusk Reflection set, which features detachable elements: the choker is transformed into two cuffs, with a not simple goldsmith technique solution. It should also be noted that in some cases the diamonds are combined with “less noble” stones, as for Midnight Aura, where the transparent gems are placed inside green chrysoprase pearls. Or the Frozen Capture set, where diamonds coexist with rock crystal.

Orecchini Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamanti, titanio e alluminio

Anello Ascending Shadows in oro bianco, diamante centrale brown di 12,4 carati, titanio e alluminio

Anello Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante centrale taglio princess

Collana Midnight Aura in oro bianco, crisoprasio, diamante a pera di oltre 20 carati

Choker Dusk Reflection con diamante rosa pendente

Let’s go to aventurine

Published on April 23, 2022

Campus

Collana in quarzo avventurina, giada e rubini

Its name is aventurine, but it is not looking for adventures: it is a stone increasingly used by jewelers. Here are the characteristics of aventurine ♦

It’s called aventurine, but it is not looking for adventures: if anything, it is sought after by jewelers. This stone that looks like jade, is an emerging material in jewelery. Often referred to as “Indian Jade”, it is actually a variety of quartz. Her green reflections catch a lot, but sometimes it is confused with the malachite. Error. Although some varieties of agate and malachite can be difficult to distinguish, it is much hard. Although it is usually green, there are also varieties of yellow agate, peach, red and brown. There is also an orange version, it indicated as aventurine, but is actually the feldspar family and not quartz. This variety is more commonly referred to as sunstone. To green aventurine the chromium content in, the fuchsite, produces inclusions with brilliant effect. There is also the green aventurine, but opaque.

Aventurine comes to 7 on the Mohs scale, which measures the hardness, while malachite is classified in the scale of 3.5 to 4. Some geologists consider aventurine as a rock, rather than a semi precious stone, because of presence of fuchsite. And for geologists any substance that contains more than one mineral is not a stone is homogeneous, but is considered a rock. Despite this, most of the gemologists and jewelers sees the aventurine simply as a variety of quartz to be used for earrings, rings, or necklaces. But what does the name? Aventurine refers to a type of glass which was invented in 1700. It was an opaque glass, accidentally filled with copper stain, and who has been given the name of Aventurine, from the definition in Italian “per ventura”, that means by chance . The stone that looked like this particular material took its name. How much is the avventurina? It depends on its quality, for example by its purity: many inclusions can diminish its value. In any case costs much less jade.

Orecchini in acciaio-brunito, perno in ottone pietra avventurina — Monica Trevisi, orecchini in acciaio-brunito, perno in ottone, avventurina

Orecchini della collezione Rainbow Shades in oro giallo 18Kt, zaffiri verdi e avventurina verde — Dml, orecchini della collezione Rainbow Shades in oro giallo 18Kt, zaffiri verdi e avventurina verde

Orecchini in quarzo citrino con madreperla e avventurina — Bigli, orecchini in quarzo citrino con madreperla e avventurina

Bracciale con avventurina rosa, perle su ottone dorato — Martina Mondadori, bracciale con avventurina rosa, perle su ottone dorato

De Beers, collezione Aria, anello con un diamante taglio brillante centrale circondato da diamanti taglio brillante e baguette e pavé di avventurina

Anello di Yves Saint-Laurent con avventurina — Anello di Yves Saint-Laurent in oro e avventurina

The jewelers that close in Russia

Published on March 9, 2022

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The real drama is that of human lives lost in vain, of overwhelmed lives, of lives that will never be the same. But the war in Ukraine also causes a smaller, much smaller, but not irrelevant, drama related to jobs, in the West and in Russia, which will be lost to a stupid aggression. Both Russians and Westerners are dealing with the inevitable sanctions announced in time, before the invasion, which will have an impact on the accounts of companies, for example those of jewelry, as well as on the people who work there. The collapse of the ruble and the blocking of the credit card service, in fact, led many jewelry companies to suspend their business. Maybe they will close completely or reopen, if it all ends, but who knows when.

At the time of writing this short article, the last Western brand to close the boutique in Moscow was Swarovski, while Tiffany was among the first to lower the shutter, along with Vuitton. Others have already done so, others will follow. The list of Western Maisons that have opened a boutique in Moscow, St. Petersburg or other Russian cities is long. In Moscow, for example, they have a boutique Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Akillis, Piaget, De Beers, H. Stern, Stephen Webster, Carrera y Carrera, Mauboussin, Mont-Blanc, Dior, Chaumet, Pandora, Frey Wille, Cartier , Trollbeads, Vuitton, Thomas Sabo, Bulgari, Pomellato, Adamas, Damiani, Buccellati. Other brands, such as Pasquale Bruni or Alcozer, are distributed in non-owned jewelers, or in airport duty free shops.

According to an analysis concerning Italian jewelery conducted by ICE (the state body for exports) in general, the Russian buyer is oriented towards medium or medium-high level jewelery. Also according to the analysis, the daily use of rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, especially in the capital and large cities, is now seen as a form of accessory to one’s image, not necessarily combined with luxury clothing or for events special. The favorite items of Russian women are rings, chains and earrings; men prefer chains and bracelets, while brooches and necklaces are bought by a minority of the female population, while typically male jewelry such as cufflinks and tie pins are in low demand. In recent years, however, silver jewelery has been more successful than gold, due to the unfavorable ruble-euro exchange rate. Italy (2019 data) exports about 77 million jewels to Russia, about 22 million France, the United States 21 million and the United Kingdom 23 million. However, the one who exports the most to Russia is China with over 88 million.

The alchemy of light by De Beers

Published on February 3, 2022

Rings/alta gioielleria/bracciale/Showroom/COLLANE

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti Atomique

As a reflection of light penetrates a stone and is reflected outside with a glow, it is almost magic. And a spell needs a wizard. Or an alchemist. In the case of diamonds, the most famous alchemist is, perhaps, De Beers. The company, born as a specialist in the extraction of diamonds and then also a jewelery house, presented its high jewelery collection called The Alchemist of Light in Paris. It is destined to last a long time: it consists of 45 unique pieces, divided into seven lines. Two have been presented at the moment.

Collier a colletto, composto da 1.907 diamanti tondi taglio brillante che circondano un diamante interno impeccabile da 18,57 carati

These are the Atomique line and Light Rays. The other five collections are expected for the summer, on the occasion of next season’s Couture. Atomique is made up of seven pieces, in white diamonds and 18k white gold. The idea, as the name suggests, is a design inspired by the molecular structure of the diamond. The most important piece in this line is a collar necklace, made up of 1,907 round brilliant diamonds surrounding a flawless 18.57 carat internal diamond.

The Light Rays line, on the other hand, is completely different. It is made up of nine pieces, but uses color. To be precise, the jewels are made with natural brown, orange or yellow diamonds, together with anodized titanium in shades of brown and yellow. The idea, in this case, is to evoke the morning sunlight, what photographers call the golden hour. But they are also the colors of autumn, according to interpretative tastes.

Ear cuff scomponibile della linea Lights Ray in titanio, con diamante brown

Orecchini chandelier Light-Rays con diamanti gialli

Anello scomponibile con diamante arancio da 1 carato taglio smeraldo

Orecchini Atomique Hoop in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini a bottone Atomique in oro bianco e diamanti

Here are the most beautiful advertisements

Published on January 22, 2022

Campus

Here are the most famous and beautiful jewelry advertisements ♦

What have been the best advertising campaigns regarding jewelry? Most, let’s face it, have little to remember: well-known faces dreamily flaunting a bracelet or necklace, models casting sensual glances as they caress diamond rings and earrings. Or, simply, the precious object and that’s it. But, fortunately, even for jewels the imagination of those who design advertising campaigns emerges from time to time. Starting with the famous slogan coined by De Beers: “A diamond is forever”, a campaign that dates back to 1947 by the copywriter Frances Gerty. A few but effective words that convinced Americans that diamonds are the symbol of love and commitment, that no other precious stone should be considered for an engagement ring. This was not the case before, there were no precise rules: rubies and sapphires were both usual choices. After the De Beers campaign, however, these are stones fell out of favor and now, about 60 years later, it is rare to spot an engagement ring without diamonds. Everything has changed.

The best of all

A campaign that has total effectiveness, like that of De Beers, is practically impossible today. Yet there are still successful campaigns thanks to the spirit, novelty and charm they can arouse. It is proof that jewelers could give a little more credit to the best advertisers. Let’s start with one of the many videos from the series «A diamond is forever». This is a short from 1996.

Using technology

Fortunately, there is no lack of those who use their imagination together with the weapons of technology. JCPenney, the third largest department store chain in the United States, launched an online video years ago promoting its diamond jewelry in a highly original way. In the clip, a man who gives his wife a vacuum cleaner for their anniversary is sent to some kind of kennel, a place of segregation where husbands who buy their wives bad gifts are forced to fold mountains of laundry. In the final scene, the man is shown a photograph: the solution is to give a necklace from JCPenney. Linked to this video is a site: bewareofthedoghouse.com, which allows inadequate men to be “imprisoned” in a virtual kennel. In 2009, the video campaign had over 14 million views on YouTube, and more than 7 million people visited the interactive site.

Liz Chatelain, a jewelry market research specialist at Mvi Marketing in California, believes the campaign has paid off: “JC Penney did a great job of getting more consumers to give jewelry,” she says. “Increasing the business to be divided is not only good for the advertiser, but also good for the industry.” Many other jewelers are realizing the potential of online advertising to help reach a wider audience among ‘digital natives’ who are less accessible than traditional print or television advertising.

Social messages

Cartier, for example, shocked the world by pulling out an advertising campaign for the Cartier product line on the social network MySpace, which was an industry leader years ago, only to be supplanted by Facebook. Until a decade ago, the idea of advertising through social media seemed unthinkable for a luxury brand: today everyone is investing in social networks. But the panthére that comes to life from a jewel, in a video from 2012, cannot be forgotten about Cartier either.

In truth, even those who choose newspapers for their advertising could be a bit original. Like the Green Initiative campaign of July 2007, conceived by the couple Russell and Kimora Lee Simmons, which focused on the ecological theme and on helping Africa to promote Green Bracelets. The bracelets are made of malachite and rough diamonds and half of the profits from the sale went to the Diamond Empowerment Fund, an international non-profit organization that aims to raise money for education in Africa.

The bracelets have been spotted on the wrists of several celebrities. Equally famous was, at the time, the advertising campaign conducted by No Dirty Gold, an organization that wants to put an end to improper gold mining practices.

In 2006, the American association Oxfam and the Eearthworks initiative published a black and white ad in the New York Times featuring a heart-shaped gold medallion. Inside the jewel there was an image of a young, barefoot African boy shoveling garbage in a mine. The caption under the medallion reads: “There is nothing romantic about a toxic gold mine.” Sixteen jewelers in the US have been listed in the ad as “leaders” or “laggards,” based on their partnership with (or resistance to) the No Dirty Gold campaign for sustainably produced gold.

Celebrities

There is, however, the more traditional line of celebrities. Movie stars, sports heroes and leaders combined with gold and diamond jewelry. To be truly convincing, however, the celebrity must be consistent with the product they are testimonial of and, above all, tell a story. For example, years ago British jeweler Stephen Webster’s print advertising campaign chose a somewhat rebellious rock star, Christina Aguilera, as her muse in a series of Alfred Hitchcock-inspired images, where the singer plays a sexy girl.

Going back in time, another case of celebrity lent to jewelry, for the Italian maison Damiani, is that of Sharon Stone, who granted her face and a seductive look to advertise the creations of the Piedmontese brand. Note the indirect irony towards De Beers. The claim of the advertisement, in fact, reads: Damiani, a girl’s best friend, words that recall the famous definition for diamonds, of which we have spoken.

Wearing Damiani, Sharon poses as Eva in the Garden of Eden, as aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart and as Gertrude Ederle, the first woman to swim the English Channel. Gucci has instead created a video on the creation of the campaign for the Chiodo collection, in which the actress Clare Danes does the makeup wearing the jewels.

But there are many famous ambassadors for jewelry, for years Carla Bruni was the face of Bulgari, just as Cara Delevigne is for Dior fine jewelry, while Buccellati chose Beatrice Borromeo to add blue blood to her image.

Cara Delevingne indossa i gioielli della collezione Rose des Vents di Dior

Beatrice Borromeo indossa la collezione Macri di Buccellati

Lightbox sells (laboratory) diamonds loose

Published on October 25, 2021

news

A 2-carat diamond not mounted on a jewel and sold for 1600 dollars. Possible? Yes, if it is a diamond that, instead of being extracted from the earth, was produced by a factory or, in the marketing nomenclature, “grown in a laboratory”, a definition that makes the stone less industrial fruit. Lightbox, a brand of the De Beers group, sells synthetic diamonds in bulk. The large company famous for its (natural) diamonds has for some years decided to compete on its own by selling diamonds made within the walls of an industrial plant.

Diamante di laboratorio del peso di 2 carati, venduto da Lightbox per 1850 euro

A move that surprised many but, in fact, has a rational strategy: to occupy that part of the market before others do it. Lightbox jewels are distributed all over the world also through the website. The novelty is that now, in addition to laboratory diamond jewels, princess or brilliant cut stones (for the moment) are on sale directly, which can be purchased and then used in a jewel to be entrusted to your jeweler. It is no coincidence that at the moment (October 2021) there is only one diamond ring on the Lightbox website, while the rest of the jewels are divided between earrings and necklaces with a light point. The stones are of VVS purity, colorless (color D, E or F) and have an excellent defined cut.

Diamante rosa da laboratorio di 1 carato e mezzo

The ultra-competitive price of laboratory diamonds, which among other things are presented as a standard bearer of sustainability (an aspect on which there is much to be discussed), could be a success: the proposed price is $ 800 per carat. More or less a tenth of what a natural diamond costs. To this we must add that, from a chemical point of view, there is no difference between a laboratory stone and one extracted in a mine. Although natural gems often have imperfections that make them unique. Lightbox loose diamonds come with their own quality guarantee and with a sign code visible with a 10x magnifying glass. In short, fortunately they cannot be resold as natural diamonds.

The price of laboratory diamonds is dropping

Published on September 6, 2021

Campus

Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox di De Beers

Diamonds created in a laboratory, but it would be more accurate to say in a factory, conquer many buyers. They are completely identical, from a chemical point of view, to natural diamonds and, above all, they cost less. Much less. Compared to two or three years ago, the cost (and value) of diamonds manufactured by man with sophisticated machines has decreased by about a third. Will this trend continue? How far will the value of synthetic diamonds drop? Should you buy them now or is it better to wait? These are questions that often arise among those who are about to buy a diamond jewel, especially rings and earrings.

The scenario has changed for two reasons. The first is the entry on the market of De Beers, the colossus that extracts natural diamonds from the earth and which also markets jewelry made with these stones. In 2018, surprisingly, De Beers announced that it would start selling lab-created diamond jewelry. To many it seemed a paradoxical decision, a way to compete at home. But the success of the Lightbox brand, destined for jewelry with artificial diamonds, seems to prove De Beers right. But Lightbox has also stunned the market with much lower prices than the competition: $ 200 for a 0.25-carat diamond jewel, $ 400 for a half-carat, $ 600 for 0.75-carat and 800 for a diamond ring. 1 carat. Prices immediately fell by almost 30%.

The second factor that has contributed to lower prices is the evolution of technology, which today allows for the creation of diamonds at an ever lower cost. While until a few years ago it was very difficult to obtain artificial diamonds of over 3 carats, now the production process seems much easier and for small stones the price is now very low.

Collana in oro e diamanti di laboratorio

To these reasons is added the success decreed by consumers. Thus, the market price of lab-created diamonds has dropped considerably on average, with some ups and downs in 2019. According to some analysts, one of the reasons for the success is related to the covid pandemic. Meetings via Zoom, for example, could be behind the great demand for laboratory diamond earrings: no one will go to verify the origin of those stones worn on a computer screen. Sales, in fact, continue to increase and prices, according to Virtual Diamond Boutique, only dropped by 3% this year.

Orecchini con diamanti blu creati in laboratorio

Obviously, the descent cannot continue indefinitely, but the climate of competition between producers seems to bring the diamonds created in the laboratory ever closer to the so-called fine jewelry, to get closer to the world of fashion. Simple diamonds, to buy and to change when you want to renew your jewels box. Not diamonds that are forever, in short, but only for a moment.

Il diamante cresciuto in laboratorio — Anello con diamante cresciuto in laboratorio

De Beers diamonds for Cruella’s rival

Published on June 1, 2021

COLLANE/news

Cruella, the One Hundred and One Dalmatians character who returns to the screen, is animated by a spirit of revenge towards the evil Baroness von Hellman. She is very bad, but certainly very elegant, as she wears high jewelry De Beers. The company synonymous with diamonds, in fact, supplied the jewels worn by Emma Thompson, the object of Cruella’s revenge. She was also a choice of Jenny Beavan, the costume designer on the Disney-produced film. The jewels, in the sense of the film’s manufacturer, serve to emphasize the character of the baroness, who wears them during a party in her country villa.

Emma Thompson nei panni della baronessa von Hellman con i gioielli De Beers

For example, the three-strand earrings from De Beers’ Arpeggia series are, of course, made with lots of diamonds. Or the high jewelery Assana diamond necklace, by De Beers, is in 18 carat white gold with 37.47 carats of diamonds. In short, great jewels, even if it seems a bit surprising that jewels are combined with such a negative character.

Collana Arpeggia a cinque fili, in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti

Orecchini a tre fili Arpeggia in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti

Survey: laboratory diamonds? Only if at a low price

Published on April 4, 2021

news

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De Beers produces diamonds created in a laboratory or, better said, in a production plant. De Beers synthetic diamonds are marketed under the Lightbox brand. In the idea of the largest producer of natural diamonds, those extracted in one way or another from the ground, the stones grown in the laboratory serve to expand the market to that segment of consumers who cannot afford a traditional gem. Even though now De Beers herself makes it known that the distrust of synthetic diamonds remains high. In fact, the company summarized customer sentiment in the sixth Diamond Insight Flash Report. The analysis contains an unflattering verdict for non-natural diamonds: only 6% of people surveyed associate the word “authentic” with stones grown in the laboratory. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, are trusted by 60%, which 41% are also stones associated with the term “romantic”. Lab grown diamonds, on the other hand, are only 6% romantic.

But there is also an investment aspect: consumers think that synthetic diamonds will not maintain their value over time. In short, a natural diamond ring can be easily resold, not so much a jewel with a synthetic stone. Seven out of ten consumers are unwilling to spend more than $ 1,000 for a lab-grown diamond jewel.

Bracciale con diamante rosa creato in laboratorio

Catena in argento con diamanti sintetici di Lightbox

De Beers and the Talismans

Published on March 15, 2021

Rings/Showroom/COLLANE

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Thousands of years ago, jewels were born as talismans, as protection from diseases, wild beasts and evil spirits. Then, they became an ornament. Now they return to being a talisman, even if the ornamental function remains prevalent. In fact, the De Beers Talisman collection takes up the concept of jewelry as protection from something. But, to tell the truth, it is a simple inspiration, since the jewels protect above all the good mood of those who receive them as a gift. In any case, the collection sports a special style inspired by ancient jewels. It uses, in fact, polished diamonds, but with an irregular cut, such as those found on historic crowns and bracelets.

The rough diamonds, next to small brilliant cut diamonds, are fancy, champagne or brown colored stones. In the crown-shaped composition of the main ring, for example, the central band features octahedral brown rough diamonds, while the two outer bands are dotted with round brilliant and shiny baguette-cut diamonds alongside the rough diamonds. Furthermore, the gems are set just like in ancient jewels, with the serti poinçon technique, that is, inserted in a setting created with the burin. The jewelry is largely made with 18K yellow gold, although there are some white gold pieces.

Anello in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi e fancy

Medaglione con diamanti bianchi e brown per 2,17 carati

Orecchino singolo in oro giallo e diamanti

Orecchini in oro giallo con diamanti bianchi e brown

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti bianchi e brown

Wild nature in De Beers high jewelery

Published on February 9, 2021

Rings/alta gioielleria/bracciale/Showroom/COLLANE

The charm of diamonds … Does it need to be described? You need remember it? To embroider on it? No, but it is nice that a stone so loved for hundreds of centuries is transformed into small masterpieces if it happens in the right hands and minds. For Céline Assimon, new CEO of De Beers, diamonds are the usual business. Which, at times, can become special. As in the case of the new large collection of high jewelry Reflections of Nature, divided into 39 pieces and five lines: Okavango Grace, Motlatse Marvel, Namib Wonder, Landers Radiance and Ellesmere Treasure. The subject is nature or, more properly, African nature, the land from which De Beers extracts diamonds. The wild lands of Botswana and Namibia thus become evocative jewels, made with all shades of fancy diamonds: yellow, brown, green, pink.

An example above all: the Motlatse Marvel bracelet, made up of 158 diamonds for a total of 26.98 carats, which recalls the scorching sun of Africa and the subtropical environment of the South African Motlatse Canyon. Or the Namib Wonder set, inspired by the dunes of the Namibian desert, with jewels that use diamonds with yellow and white shades. Or the ring from the Okavango line, with green and pink diamonds, which seem to have been extracted from the lands of the African river delta. A collection that adds rare gems with suggestions of distant lands and still unknown to most of the world. And for this even more fascinating.

Orecchini Okavango Grace, con due file di diamanti bianchi tondi brillanti e due file di grezzi verdi e rosa che sfumano da tonalità scure a più chiare, terminando in un diamante tondo brillante rosa

Orecchini Landers Radiance, con un peso totale di 7,50 carati

Bracciale Namib Wonder con diamanti con un peso totale di 21,32 carati

Medaglione Ellesmere, composto da 478 diamanti

Anello Landers Radiance, con diamante centrale di forma ovale arancione fancy brown da 1,01 carati

Bracciale Motlatse Marvel, composto da 158 diamanti per un totale di 26,98 carati

Anello con diamanti bianchi e gialli Namib Wonder

Boom of demands for diamonds

Published on January 30, 2021

news/Diamanti

Diamonds: is it worth investing in women’s best friend stones? The question recurs and the answer is always the same: it depends. A few years ago, some companies that, including through banks, sold diamonds to those who wanted to invest their savings, presenting them as a safe choice, ended up in court. Wrong, because the price of diamonds varies, it does not grow by divine law and, once purchased, it is also necessary to find those who buy back the diamonds. That said, it should be noted that the crisis due to the coronavirus pandemic seems to have had a positive effect on the diamond market.

The world diamond trade has spent years in doldrums, but after to be paralyzed by the pandemic, things started to improve. Now business is booming. Bloomberg, an American agency specializing in financial news, explained this in a long analysis. As the report tells, Indian carvers in the Indian city of Surat, one of the world’s centers of diamond processing, are desperate for an increase in production. The most skilled polishers are in contention among factories with 50% wage increases, free food and housing. India, where about 90% of diamonds are cut or polished, imported nearly $ 2 billion in rough diamonds last month
The reason is that the demand for diamonds in the market has soared. De Beers, one of the largest producers of the stone, has already raised the prices of diamonds and the rival company, Alrosa, has predicted that the price of precious stones will rise again.

Why did this boom happen? The causes indicated by analysts are different: exceptional sales of jewelry during the Christmas period, particularly in the United States and China. Reduced or eliminated luxury travel, often forced to stay at home or to restrict travel, those who do not have economic problems have poured out luxury shopping on precious objects. According to an Alrosa manager, online sales of diamond jewelry have almost doubled and reached around 20% of the total.

store cinese shenyang — Inaugurazione di uno store Tiffany a Shenyang, in Cina

And this trend has the effect of increasing the demand for polished diamonds, those used for jewelry. So do you have to rush to buy diamonds? Warning: some industry players, Bloomberg reports, also fear that the market is overheating, and there is a risk of a collapse later in the year. The reason: Annual demand for diamond jewelry had stagnated, estimated at around $ 80 billion, over the past five years, and gem brokers were struggling to make a profit. And if, thanks to vaccines, the pandemic were to be quickly defeated, consumption could return to pre-covid rhythms.

Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio di Antwerp (Anversa) — Selezione dei diamanti nel laboratorio Tiffany di Antwerp (Anversa)

But, for now, this is not the case. One of the big American jewelry chains, Signet Jewelers, reported a 7.8% increase in holiday sales in North America. And in China, the second largest market in the world, another big name in the industry, Chow Tai Fook, saw an 18% increase in quarterly sales. De Beers and Alrosa both responded to demand by raising prices, trying to make up some of the ground lost last year when demand plummeted. In short, for now the boom continues.

Artificial diamonds, unstoppable race

Published on November 3, 2020

news

Forget the depths of the mines where a diamond in the rough shines in the dark. Now diamonds are increasingly the children of anonymous machines, complex procedures and digitized calculations. In short, there are more and more artificial diamonds, created in the factory. And it is even more impressive to know that one of the companies that pushes the most on lab-grown diamonds is the best known brand for selling natural gems: De Beers.

It was an advertising campaign by De Beers, in 1947, that invented the claim “a diamond is forever”. Today, perhaps, it could propose another slogan: “a diamond is for everyone”. In fact, the company is pushing hard on artificial diamonds with the Lightbox brand. Years ago he set up the first laboratory-made diamond factory in Ascot, Great Britain. And today it doubles with the $ 94 million manufacturing facility in Gresham, Oregon. The factory has already started work and once fully operational, it will produce around 200,000 carats of lab-grown diamonds each year.

In addition to the Lightbox brand, the diamonds will be sold with online jewelry retailer Blue Nile, in an exclusive jewelry collection. No wonder: research from MVI Marketing sponsored by the International Grown Diamond Association indicates that in ten years, lab-grown diamonds have gone from zero to becoming the fastest growing category in the jewelry market.

Factory created diamonds have not been marred by criticism from those who believe natural diamonds are the only precious gems. Also because artificial stones have a price per carat that is about 30% lower than those extracted from the earth. And, from a chemical point of view, they are perfectly alike. Indeed, man-made diamonds are artificially perfect. In addition, they are increasingly popular with consumers, at least American ones. Result: in addition to De Beers, other brands, such as Swarovski and Richline, also use synthetic diamonds. In short, even for jewels technology wins.

Ingresso della fabbrica di diamanti sintetici

Orecchini con diamanti sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox — Orecchini con diamanti sintetici sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox

Orecchini con diamanti rosa sviluppati in laboratorio Lightbox

Pendente con diamante sviluppato in laboratorio Lightbox